Title: Manual For Army Cooks...
Author: United States War Department.
Publisher: Washington: Government Printing Office.




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MANUAL
FOR
ARMY COOKS
PREPARED UNDER THE DIRECTION
OF THE
COMMISSARY GENERAL OF SUBSISTENCE.


PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR
FOR USE IN THE
ARMY OF THE UNITED STATES.

WASHINGTON:
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
1896.




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WAR DEPARTMENT.
Document No. 18.
OFFICE COMMISSARY GENERAL OF SUBSISTENCE.





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> CONTENTS OF PART I.


Page.

TITLE PAGE......................................1

TABLES OF CONTENTS OF PART I....................3

MANUAL.........................................17

> PART 1.


METHODS OF COOKING.............................17

Roasting.......................................17

Baking.........................................18

Boiling........................................18

Simmering......................................20

Stewing........................................20

Broiling.......................................20

Frying.........................................21

Sautéing................................22

Seasoning......................................22

Mixing.........................................22

TO CLEAN UTENSILS..............................23

TABLES OF APPROXIMATE WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.....24

CHOICE AND DESCRIPTION OF MEATS................25

Beef...........................................25

Mutton.........................................27

Pork...........................................28

Veal...........................................29

HOW TO SAVE DRIPPINGS..........................29

BUTTER.........................................30

GOOD BUTTER FROM SUET..........................31

DRIPPING PAN...................................32

AN INEXPENSIVE ICE BOX.........................33

ARMY RANGE NO. 4...............................34

LISTS OF --

Parts for Army Range No. 4.....................35

Tinware........................................36

Tablewear......................................37

Cooking Utensils...............................38



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Page.

MESSING........................................39

Details for Serving in Post Mess...............41

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS............................45

BILLS OF FARE..................................47

THE RATION.....................................47-48

SAVINGS........................................48

COMPANY FUNDS..................................49

THE TRAVEL RATION..............................49

BILLS OF FARE FOR TEN DAYS.....................50

Table No. 1....................................51

Table No. 2....................................52

Table No. 3....................................53

Table No. 4....................................54

> RECIPES.


SOUPS--

Remarks on.....................................57

Stock pot......................................58

Stock (Bouillon)...............................59

Vegetable (from stock).........................60

Tomato (from stock)............................60

Barley (from stock)............................61

Dried Beans (from stock).......................61

Macaroni (from stock)..........................61

Sago (from stock)..............................62

Rice (from stock)..............................62

Tomato and Rice (from stock)...................62

Vegetable......................................63

Tomato, No. 1..................................63

Tomato, No. 2..................................64

Rice...........................................64

Mutton or Lamb Broth...........................65

Dumpling Broth.................................65

Ox-tail........................................66

Consommé................................66

Tomato and Rice................................67

Bean...........................................67

Pea............................................68

Oyster (cove)..................................69

Oyster (fresh).................................69



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Page.

SOUPS -- Continued.

Mock-oyster....................................69

Beef Tea.......................................70

Onion..........................................70

Kidney.........................................71

St. Patrick's..................................71

Fried Bread for Soup...........................72

FISH--

Remarks on.....................................72

To prepare.....................................73

Boiled.........................................73

Fried..........................................73

Baked..........................................74

Chowder (or Clam), No. 1.......................74

Chowder, No. 2.................................75

Turbot (Fish Hash).............................76

Boiled Salt Codfish............................76

Codfish Balls..................................77

Salt Codfish Hash..............................77

Boiled Salt Mackerel...........................78

Broiled Salt Mackerel..........................78

Baked Shad.....................................79

Halibut, Baked.................................79

Little Pigs in Blankets........................79

GRAVY FOR BAKED FISH...........................80

SAUCES FOR BOILED FISH--

Drawn-Butter Sauce.............................80

Pickle Sauce...................................80

Boiled-egg Sauce...............................80

MEATS--

Remarks on.....................................80

Beef, Baked....................................81

Pot Roast......................................82

Broiled Fillet.................................83

Pounded Beef...................................83

Beefsteak Broiled in a Frying Pan..............83

Beefsteak Broiled on a Gridiron................84

Beefsteak Smothered in Onions..................85

Boiled Fresh Beef..............................85



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Page.

MEATS -- Continued.

A La Mode Beef.................................86

Beef Bouilli...................................88

To Stew Fresh Beef.............................88

To Make a Beef Pie.............................89

Baked Beef Heart...............................90

To Make Potato Pie.............................91

Turkish Pillau.................................92

Crimean Kebobs.................................92

Bomb Shells....................................93

Stewed Beef Heart..............................94

Boiled Fresh Beef Tongue.......................95

Fried Liver....................................95

Marrow Bones...................................96

Cooked Salt Beef...............................96

Boiled Salt Beef...............................97

Baked Salt Beef................................97

Stewed Salt Beef...............................97

Boiled Corned Beef.............................97

Corned Beef and Cabbage........................98

New England Boiled Dinner......................98

Brine to Corn Meats............................98

Browned Flour..................................99

Gravy for Baked Meat...........................99

Gravy..........................................99

Onion Sauce....................................100

To Thicken Gravies.............................100

To Brown Soups, Stews, etc.....................100

Creole Sauce...................................100

Sauce for Boiled Mutton........................101

Brown Sauce....................................101

Currant Jelly Sauce............................101

Baked Hash.....................................101

Wet Hash.......................................102

Dry Hash.......................................103

Pemmican.......................................103

Remarks on Pork................................103

Baked Fresh Pork...............................104

English Pork Pie...............................104



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Page.

MEATS -- Continued.

Fried Salt Pork................................104

Boiled Salt Pork...............................104

Baked Pork and Beans...........................105

Sausage Meat...................................106

Fried Sausage Meat.............................106

Breakfast Sausage..............................106

Fried Bacon....................................107

Boiled Bacon...................................107

Boiled Ham.....................................107

Broiled Ham....................................108

Fried Ham and Eggs.............................108

Plain Bacon....................................109

Fancy Bacon (New Orleans style)................109

Broiled Bacon (New Orleans style)..............109

Fried Liver....................................109

Boiled Mutton..................................109

Mutton Pot-pie.................................110

Irish Stew.....................................110

Hot Pot........................................110

Lamb...........................................111

Mint Sauce.....................................111

Quarter of Lamb, Baked or Roasted..............111

Veal...........................................111

Roast Loin of Veal.............................112

Veal Pot-pie...................................112

POULTRY AND GAME--

Remarks on Poultry.............................113

To Select Poultry..............................113

To Prepare Poultry.............................113

Baked Turkey...................................114

Remarks on Game................................115

Baked Venison..................................115

Baked Rabbit...................................116

Stewed Rabbit..................................117

Fried Rabbit...................................117

VEGETABLES--

Remarks on.....................................118

Rules for Cooking..............................119



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Page.

VEGETABLES -- Continued

Time-Table for Cooking.........................120

Remarks on Potatoes............................120

Boiled Potatoes................................121

Baked Potatoes.................................122

Steamed Potatoes...............................122

Fried Cooked Potatoes..........................122

Fried Raw Potatoes.............................123

Boiled Sweet Potatoes..........................123

Baked Sweet Potatoes...........................123

Fried Cooked Sweet Potatoes....................123

Fried Onions...................................124

Baked Onions...................................124

Boiled Onions..................................124

Stewed Onions..................................124

Boiled Okra....................................125

Brussels Sprouts...............................125

Boiled Parsnips................................125

Stewed Parsnips................................125

Fried Parsnips.................................126

Parsnip Cakes..................................126

Boiled Green Peas..............................126

Boiled Pumpkin or Winter Squash................127

Winter Squash..................................127

Baked Pumpkin or Winter Squash.................127

Baked Pumpkin..................................127

Boiled Summer Squash or Cymling................127

Boiled Cabbage.................................128

Fried Cooked Cabbage...........................128

Stewed Cabbage.................................128

Boiled Cauliflower.............................129

Boiled Carrots.................................129

Stewed Carrots.................................129

Raw Cucumbers..................................130

Stewed Cucumbers...............................130

Fried Cucumbers................................130

Boiled Green Corn..............................131

Stewed Green Corn..............................131

Boiled Beets...................................132



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Page.

VEGETABLES -- Continued.

Boiled String Beans............................132

Boiled Lima Beans..............................133

Stewed Lima Beans..............................133

Lima Beans (dried).............................133

Boiled Greens..................................133

Stewed Tomatoes................................134

Baked Tomatoes, No. 1..........................135

Baked Tomatoes, No. 2..........................135

Boiled Turnips.................................135

Succotash......................................135

Sauerkraut.....................................136

Slaw...........................................137

Stewed Salsify.................................137

Spinach........................................137

Edible Mushrooms...............................137

Poisonous Mushrooms............................138

Baked Mushrooms................................139

Fried Mushrooms................................139

Stewed Mushrooms...............................139

Salad Dressing.................................140

Boiled Dried Beans, No. 1......................140

Boiled Dried Beans, No. 2......................141

Fried Beans....................................141

Stewed Dried Beans, No. 1......................141

Stewed Dried Beans, No. 2......................142

Baked Dried Peas...............................142

Dried Peas and Oatmeal.........................142

Boiled Rice....................................143

Boiled Rice, Another Method....................144

Stewed Rice....................................144

Fried Rice.....................................145

Rice Panada....................................145

Boiled Hominy (coarse).........................145

Cracked Wheat..................................146

Hominy Grits...................................147

Fried Grits....................................147

Indian-meal Mush...............................147

Oatmeal Mush...................................148



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Page.

VEGETABLES -- Continued.

Boiled Macaroni................................148

Baked Macaroni and Cheese......................149

Stewed Celery..................................149

Fried Eggplant.................................149

Stuffed Eggplant...............................150

French Artichokes..............................150

Jerusalem Artichokes...........................150

Stewed Asparagus...............................150

Asparagus on Toast.............................151

Oatmeal Porridge...............................151

Remarks........................................151

DRIED AND EVAPORATED FRUITS--

Stewed Prunes..................................152

Stewed Apples..................................153

Stewed Apricots................................153

Stewed Peaches.................................153
Remarks........................................153

STEWED CRANBERRIES.............................154

STEWED RHUBARB.................................154

EGGS--

Boiled.........................................155

Fried..........................................155

Plain Omelet...................................155

Poached........................................156

Scrambled......................................157

BREAD, ROLLS, ETC.--

Remarks on Breakfast Rolls.....................157

Breakfast Rolls................................157

Parker-house Rolls.............................158

Baking-powder Biscuits.........................158

Wheat Muffins..................................159

Graham Bread...................................159

Corn Meal and Rye Bread........................159

Corn Meal......................................160

Corn Bread.....................................160

Corn Bread or Hoecake..........................161

Wheat Bread....................................161

Potato Bread...................................162

Raised Brown Bread.............................162



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Page.

BREAD, ROLLS, ETC. -- Continued.

Potato Yeast...................................162

Hop Yeast......................................163

Baking Powder..................................163

Remarks on Griddle and Pan Cakes...............163

Corn-meal Batter Cakes.........................164

Flannel Cakes, No. 1...........................164

Flannel Cakes, No. 2...........................164

Flannel Cakes, No. 3...........................165

Batter Cakes, No. 1............................165

Batter Cakes, No. 2............................165

Buckwheat Cakes................................166

Rice Cakes.....................................166

Pancakes.......................................167

Rhode Island Pancakes..........................167

Pie Crust, No. 1...............................167

Pie Crust, No. 2...............................169

Pie Crust, No. 3...............................169

PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS--

Remarks on Puddings............................169

Plain Duff.....................................170

Plum Duff......................................170

Baked Rice Pudding.............................170

Rice and Potato Pudding........................171

Indian-meal Dumplings..........................171

Cannon Balls...................................171

Rice Toad in the Hole..........................172

Artillery Pie..................................172

Boiled Yeast Dumplings.........................173

Plum Pudding, No. 1............................173

Plum Pudding, No. 2............................174

Plum Pudding, No. 3............................174

Plum Pudding, No. 4............................175

Boiled Omaha Pudding...........................175

Boiled Roll Pudding............................175

Boiled Apple Pudding...........................176

"Roly-Poly" Pudding............................176

Boiled Batter Pudding..........................177

Boiled Cornstarch Pudding......................177



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Page.

PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS -- Continued.

Boiled Indian-meal Pudding.....................177

Remarks on Baked Puddings......................178

Baked Batter Pudding...........................179

Brown Betty....................................179

Baked Cornstarch Pudding.......................179

Baked Rice Pudding (with eggs).................180

Baked Rice Pudding (without eggs)..............180

Baked Cracker Pudding..........................181

Baked Bread Pudding............................181

Baked Bread and Fruit Pudding..................181

Baked Apple Pudding............................182

Baked Apple Dumplings..........................183

Baked Pumpkin Pudding..........................183

Baked Hominy Pudding...........................183

Doughnuts......................................184

Common Crullers................................184

SAUCES--

Apple Sauce....................................185

Rock Butter....................................185

Hot Sauce, No. 1...............................185

Hot Sauce, No. 2...............................185

Hot Sauce, No. 3...............................186

Hot Sauce, No. 4...............................186

SPANISH RECIPES--

Spanish Stew...................................186

Spanish Steak..................................187

"Estufado".....................................187

Dried Beef with Peppers........................187

"Salza" (sauce)................................187

"Frijoles".....................................188

"Frijoles con Queso"...........................188

Stuffed Chiles (green).........................188

Brain (Spanish style)..........................189

"Tamales"......................................189

"Tortillas"....................................190

"Chile con Carne"..............................190

Spanish Fried Rice.............................190

Jambalaya......................................191



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Page.

COFFEE, TEA, AND CHOCOLATE--

Remarks on Coffee and Tea......................191

To Roast Coffee................................192

To Prepare Coffee, No. 1.......................193

To Prepare Coffee, No. 2.......................193

A Simple Method of Making Coffee, No. 1........194

A Simple Method of Making Coffee, No. 2........194

Tea............................................194

Chocolate......................................195

COOKING CANNED GOODS--

Remarks on.....................................196

Fruits.........................................196

Vegetables.....................................196

Soups..........................................198

Salmon.........................................198

Lobsters and Shrimps...........................198

ICING..........................................199

ICE CREAM......................................199

WINE JELLY.....................................199

CURRANT JELLY..................................200

WELSH RAREBIT..................................200

LEMONADE, NO. 1................................200

LEMONADE, NO. 2................................201



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> MANUAL.

> PART I.

> THE ARMY RATION IN GARRISON.




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> MANUAL FOR ARMY COOKS.

> METHODS OF COOKING.


The ordinary methods of cooking are as follows: Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Simmering, Stewing, Broiling, Frying, and Sautéing.



Roasting is that process by which a substance is cooked by the direct heat of a fire, without interposition of utensils, and generally in the open air. This method is seldom used at present, baking being substituted for it.

> HINTS ON ROASTING MEAT.


In roasting beef allow to fifty pounds, four hours, if pieces are cut in chunks of about seven to ten pounds each; remove bones from large roasts; dredge both sides with flour, salt, and pepper; on each piece place a piece of fat suet, bacon, or pork. Pour over hot meat broth or water (boiling is best) to moisten and set the juices, and basting is not required. Turn the meat and when about half done add onions and broth to make enough gravy, and an hour before it is done put in the pared potatoes with the meat and gravy to bake brown. Keep oven closed until ready to serve.


To roast mutton it requires to the fifty pounds, three hours.


To roast veal it requires to the fifty pounds, four and one-half to five hours.


To roast pork it requires to the fifty pounds, four and one-half to five hours.


Allow meat broth sufficient to make gravy for the command. Season to taste, remembering that to season correctly is one-half of good cooking.




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Baking is that process by which a substance is cooked by heat in an oven. The temperature for baking most articles is about 400° F.


This, of all cooking, requires great care and constant attention to detail. The action of the weather, exposure, locality, and fuel are hardly ever the same; thus it will be seen that allowance must be made for these changes. Nothing is gained by the slightest haste. Full time must be allowed and, with attention, you may be sure of the most excellent results at all times.


An easy method to test the heat of an oven. -- If the hand and naked arm can be held in the oven for fifteen seconds the temperature is about right. If this can not be done without distress the oven is too hot. If the exposed part can be held comfortably in the oven for a greater length of time, it is too cold. This method allows the cook to determine approximately the proper degree of heat. Experience will enable him to arrive at it precisely.



Boiling is the most abused method of cooking. Rapid boiling should be avoided. Additional heat is not generated by furious boiling, and much of the aroma of a substance escapes when steam is rapidly generated. To boil properly, the fire should be clear, and after the boiling has commenced the vessel so separated from the heat by the interposition of stove covers, or so far removed from the fire that the liquid shall have only a regular and very gentle movement, with slow steam generated and consequent slow evaporation. In boiling at least two articles of the Army ration -- beans and peas -- it is desirable to use soft water.


Hard water, if hardness depends upon the presence of carbonate of lime, can be rendered soft by boiling it an h our and then allowing it to cool, when most of the lime will be precipitated.


For cooking beans and peas the water thus treated can be used at once, after carefully decanting


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it. But if it is to be used for drinking or for making coffee or tea, it should, after decanting, be agitated in the air in order to aerate it.


The boiling point of water is raised three or four degrees by the ordinary proportion of salt recommended for cooking vegetables.

> HINTS ON BOILING MEATS AND VEGETABLES.


Boiled fresh meats and vegetables should be put on in boiling water, which sets and retains the juices, and boiled slowly; they should be salted and seasoned while cooking.


Cold water should be used when putting on salt meats and meats for soups, stews, corned meats, etc.


Ham, bacon, and pork should be boiled from fifteen to twenty minutes per pound, mutton about fifteen minutes per pound, and beef until the bones are free or a fork will pierce easily.


Meat, except hams, before boiling, should be cut into chunks of about five pounds each, all soup bones cracked (the more the better), and all scum arising while boiling carefully removed and burned.


The broth, except from salt meats, should be kept for stews, gravies, soups, etc.


Onions should be slowly boiled in two or three waters from one to two hours, seasoned to taste, and thickened before serving, being barely covered with liquid.


Cabbage should be boiled (with pork or bacon) from one-half to one hour.

> LOSS IN COOKING.


During the operations of boiling, roasting, and baking, fresh beef and mutton, when moderately fat, lose, on the average, about as follows:




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In Boiling. In Baking. In Roasting.
Four pounds of beef lose........ 1 pound. 1 lb. 3 oz. 1 lb. 5 oz.
Four pounds of Mutton lose...... 14 ounces. 1 lb. 4 oz. 1 lb. 6 oz.

> TIME REQUIRED IN COOKING.


Many of the recipes indicate the time of cooking. The following is a fair average, when specific directions are not given in the recipe:


Roasting. -- Ten pounds of beef about two and one-half hours.


Ten pounds of mutton about two and one-half hours.


Boiling. -- Ten pounds of beef about two and one-half hours, after the water boils.


Ten pounds of mutton about two and one-half hours, after the water boils.


Ten pounds of ham about four hours, after the water boils.


Baking. -- About twenty minutes to the pound.


Simmering is to boil slowly, i.e., to have the liquid so far removed from the direct heat of the fire as to keep it up to the slow-boiling point. To simmer is in most cases to boil properly.



Stewing is that process by which the substance is placed in a small portion of fluid and cooked by simmering.



Broiling is that process by which the substance is acted upon by the direct heat of the fire, with only the interposition of a gridiron or some similar apparatus. In broiling, the fire should be clear, bright, and free from smoke.


It is better to broil before a fire than over it. By the former process the juices of meat can be caught in a dripping pan, and used, while in the latter manner they are lost in the fire, and tend to give a smoky flavor by their ignition.




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In broiling, the article should be turned frequently, so as to have it cooked evenly.


Frying is practically boiling in fat, and is considered the least wholesome of all kinds of cooking.


Fat (lard, etc.) raised to 400° Fahr. is sufficiently hot for frying purposes. A substance fried at this temperature can not absorb fat, since the moment it is dropped into the fat the great heat closes its pores. If, however, the fat is not hot enough, or if it is chilled by dropping too much in it at a time, the substance will absorb it, and be injured in lightness and flavor. When cooked, food should be taken from the lard or fat and allowed to drain a few moments in a sieve or colander.


To test hot fat. -- If little jets of smoke issue from the top of it, the fat is hot enough for frying.

> FRYING MEATS, VEGETABLES, ETC.


There are two methods of frying: One with very little fat in the pan, the other with enough to boil.


Chops or fat meats are best prepared by putting them in the pan when it is very hot, with just enough fat to prevent them from sticking when first put in. They should be cooked quickly and turned frequently by use of a turnover. Forks should never be used in turning or trying meats, as each stab means a loss of the juices. They should not be salted when cooking, as salt releases the juices. They should be seasoned before serving and served hot and quickly. Meats prepared in the foregoing manner are equal to broiled.


If the other method is followed, a deeper vessel and plenty of fat should be used; the fat heated until it bubbles and boils, and then the meats, chips (potatoes), doughnuts, or whatever the article is, dropped in and cooked until brown and well done. Meats should first be rolled in dry crumbs, cracker dust, corn meal, or flour.




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Articles cooked this way should be turned over once and when done set in a strainer to drip or dry; if doughnuts, dipped in powdered sugar; if potatoes or meats, seasoned and served very hot.


Steak for frying, if tough, can be made tender by pounding to mash the fiber and rolling in flour before frying. When frying, meats should be covered.



Sautéing is that process by which a substance is cooked in a frying pan or skillet with just sufficient fat to cover the bottom of the pan. The fat must be frying hot before the substance is put in it.



Seasoning. -- As salt and pepper are always at hand for use on the table, they should be used sparingly in the kitchen. It is much easier to add these articles to the prepared food than to eliminate them from it. The seasonings given in the recipes are suggestive and not arbitrary. They can be varied to suit individual taste or convenience.



Mixing. -- Preciseness in the preparation of ingredients is an important element of success in cooking. Accurate measuring is the habit of the careful and industrious cook; guessing at proportions is the practice of the indifferent and lazy cook.


After the ingredients have been carefully determined, they should be incorporated as laid down in the recipe. Failure to make a good dish when ingredients have been carefully prepared is often due to the fact that they have not been mixed properly.


In many cases recipes for cooking are printed upon the packages containing food, such as corn-starch, chocolate, gelatin, condensed milk, hominy, macaroni, yeast powders, etc. In such cases these printed recipes should be followed instead of those printed in the books or handed down by old house-keepers, since manufacturers know the strength and quality of their special productions, and are better capable of giving instructions than those who have experimented only with the general products. It


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often happens that failures in cooking occur from lack of attention to these printed recipes, and by misapprehension as to the strength and character of the substances used.


> TO CLEAN UTENSILS.


New utensils should be cleaned before they are used.


A new iron pot should have a handful of sweet hay or grass boiled in it, then be scrubbed with sand and soap; afterwards clean water should be boiled in it for about half an hour.


A new tin should be filled with boiling water in which has been dissolved a spoonful of soda, and placed over the fire to simmer. Afterwards it should be scoured with soap and rinsed with hot water. The soda renders soluble the resin used in soldering. Tins can be kept clean by rubbing them gently with sifted wood ashes.


After being thoroughly washed in very hot soapsuds and wiped dry, tin vessels should be set on the top of the stove for a few moments and then vigorously scoured for a few minutes, with dry flour rubbed on with a wad of newspaper crumpled and softened.


In this way tinware may be kept free from rust and almost as bright and glistening as silver, care being taken that it is never put away damp and that it is kept in a dry place.


A coffee or spice mill can be cleansed by grinding a handful of raw rice in it. The particles of spice, pepper, or coffee will not adhere after the rice is ground through the mill.


A copper stew pan or vessel can be cleaned with fine sand and salt, half the quantity of salt to that of sand; rub it thoroughly with the hand or a brush. If there are many stains, an old lemon (or vinegar) may be used to remove them.




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N.B. -- In washing any greasy utensil, it is best, if possible, to use the hand instead of flannel or rags, as they retain the grease, and so keep putting it on again, instead of scrubbing it off.


All utensils after being used should be at once filled with hot water and set over the fire to scald thoroughly, and before being set away should be cleaned and dried. Grease remaining in a vessel will make it rancid, and moisture will rust it.


Before being used for cooking purposes, all utensils should be thoroughly clean.


All utensils should, if possible, be exposed to the sun daily. The practice of keeping them in cupboards until absolutely needed for use should be discouraged.


Knives and forks (unless plated) should be cleaned with brick and flannel; if rusty, rub with a fresh-cut potato dipped in ashes.


Plate or plated articles can usually be kept clean and bright by washing them with soap and boiling water and rubbing dry while hot with soft cloths.


In case of bone, ivory, or wooden handles, care must be taken that they shall never be placed in hot water, which will crack the bone or dissolve the cement which joins them.


> TABLES OF APPROXIMATE WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

Three teaspoonfuls................ = One tablespoonful.
Four tablespoonfuls............... = One wineglass.
Two wineglasses................... = One gill.
Two gills......................... = One tumbler or cup.
Two cupfuls....................... = One pint.
One quart sifted flour............ = One pound.
One quart powdered sugar.......... = One pound seven ounces.
One quart granulated sugar........ = One pound nine ounces.
One pint closely packed butter.... = One pound.
Three cupfuls sugar............... = One pound.
Five cupfuls sifted flour......... = One pound.
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One tablespoonful salt............ = One ounce.
Seven tablespoonfuls granulated sugar............................. = One-half pint.
Twelve tablespoonfuls flour....... = One pint.
Three coffee-cupfuls.............. = One quart.
Ten eggs.......................... = One pound.


A tablespoon is frequently mentioned in a recipe, and it is generally understood as a measure or bulk equal to that which would be produced by half an ounce of water.

> CHOICE AND DESCRIPTION OF MEATS.


> BEEF.


Contracts for the Army require that fresh beef shall be good in quality and condition, fit for immediate use, and from fore and hind quarter meats proportionally, including all the best cuts thereof. Beef from bulls, stags, or diseased cattle shall not be delivered. The necks of the cattle shall not be delivered. The necks of the cattle slaughtered for beef shall be cut off at the fourth vertebral joint, and the breasts trimmed down; the shanks of fore quarters shall be cut off four inches above the knee joint, and of hind quarters eight inches above the hock joints. Necks, shanks, and kidney tallow shall be excluded from delivery.*


Beef cattle may be placed in the following order, as to the character of eating beef:



1. Spayed heifer from four to seven years old.

2. Steer or bullock (never worked) from four to six years old.

3. Free-martin (or barren heifer) not over eight years old.



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4. Ox from five to eight years old.

5. Heifer from three to four years old.

6. Cow from three to eight years old.

[Editorial note: The following note appears on the bottom of page 25 in the original text. ]


*It was found by weighing a steer and dressing it according to contract that the--


Fore quarters weighed 310 pounds 15 ounces.


Hind quarters weighed 268 pounds 13 ounces.


Excess of fore quarters, 42 pound 2 ounces.


This proportion has been found to be general; consequently, in receiving fresh beef under contract it should be expected that the proportion of fore-quarters meat to hind-quarters meat would be about as 8 is to 7.


Besides having a knowledge of cooking and preparing food, the cook should be also conversant with the nature and quality of meat, and the way in which oxen and sheep, when killed, are divided into joints.



[Illustration: Illustration of a Cow with Parts Divided and Numbered for Cutting.]


Method of cutting


AB. -- Cut at the neck.

CD. -- Cut to divide fore and hind quarters

EF. -- Cut at fore leg.

GH. -- Cut at hind leg.

> FORE QUARTERS.


No. 1. -- Chuck. Stews and stock.

No. 2. -- Chuck roast, 5 ribs. Roast.

No. 3. -- Second cut, 3 ribs. Roast.

No. 4. -- First cut, 3 ribs. Roast.

No. 5. -- Shoulders. Boiling.

No. 6. -- Plates and brisket. Stew.

> HIND QUARTERS.


No. 7. -- Sirloin. Roast.

No. 8. -- Flank. Stews.

No. 9. -- Rump. Steaks.

No. 10. -- Round. Boiling.

A baron of beef is two sirloins cut in one joint.


Nos. 1, 6, and 8 do not keep as well as other parts and should be consumed first.




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The following table exhibits about the average proportion of meat to bone in the most ordinary joints of meat; the joints, when raw, being first weighed, and afterwards the bone, when dressed, and the meat removed with a knife:

Gross Weight. Weight of bone.
Pounds. Ounces. Pounds. Ounces
Sirloin...................... 13 6 1 9
Rump......................... 18 7 4 0
H bone....................... 10 6 1 6
Round........................ 18 4 1 12
Mouse buttock................ 3 1/2 0 0
Veiny piece.................. 7 1/2 0 0
Thick flank.................. 11 4 1 7
Thin flank................... 8 12 0 0
Leg.......................... 12 6 3 5
Ribs (best end).............. 14 8 1 15
Ribs (middle)................ 12 2 2 3
Ribs (chuck)................. 8 6 1 12
Shoulder..................... 10 6 2 0
Sticking piece............... 8 4 0 11
Shin......................... 9 6 2 6
___ ___ ___ ___
Total........................ 165 14 24 6


Or, about 15 per cent of bone to that of meat.


The hind quarter and ribs are considered far preferable; the remainder of the fore quarter and neck are coarse and of inferior worth.


The ration is twenty ounces of beef, as delivered from the block; an allowance of twenty per cent for bone will leave sixteen ounces of meat.


> MUTTON.


The contracts for fresh mutton require that the carcasses shall be trimmed as follows: The heads shall be cut off at first vertebral joint, the shanks of fore quarters at the knee joint, and of hind quarters at the hock joint.




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[Illustration: Illustration of a Sheep with Parts Divided and Numbered for Cutting.]




No. 1. -- The leg or haunch.

No. 2. -- The loin.

No. 3. -- The fore quarter.

No. 4. -- The neck.

No. 5. -- The breast and fore leg.

A chine is two necks.

A saddle is two loins.

> PORK.


Hogs make the best bacon when they weigh about 150 pounds. They should be fed on corn six weeks before killing time.



[Illustration: Illustration of a Hog with Parts Divided and Numbered for Cutting. ]




Nos. 1 and 2. -- Head and snout.

No. 3. -- Hock, for boiling.

No. 4. -- Fore leg, for boiling.

No. 5. -- Shoulder, for steaks.

No. 6. -- Top of neck, for sausage.

No. 7. -- Side meat or bacon.

No. 8. -- Loins, for chops or roast.

No. 9. -- Ham, to fry, boil, or bake.

No. 10. -- Feet, for jelly or pickle.

A chine is two loins undivided.



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[Illustration: Illustration of calf with parts divided and numbered for cutting. ]




No. 1. -- End of loin, for roasts.

No. 2. -- Loin, for roasts or cutlets.

No. 3. -- Rib, for roasts or chops.

No. 4. -- Neck, for stew or soup.

No. 5. -- Head, for soup or jelly.

No. 6. -- Sweetbreads, located between the neck and stomach, on each side of the windpipe, between the fore legs.

No. 7. -- Breast, for stew.

No. 8. -- Shank, for stew or soup.

No. 9. -- Feet, for jelly.

No. 10. -- Fillet, for roasting.

No. 11. -- Knuckle, for stewing.


The fore quarter is divided into two pieces called the brisket or breast, and rack.


> HOW TO SAVE DRIPPINGS.


A nutritious and palatable soup can be made from the drippings of roasted meats. Mutton fat is not suitable for drippings, being too strongly flavored.


When meat has been roasted there is always a mixture of juice and fat at the bottom of the pan.


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Carefully pour the grease which is on the top into a sauce pan, keeping the juice underneath to serve with the meat. Place the grease on the fire and let it cook until it stops sizzling. The sizzling indicates that there is still liquid in the fat which must be thoroughly evaporated or it will prevent its preservation. Pour through a fine strainer into an earthen jar, and it will keep indefinitely, if in a cool place. The grease of different meats can be kept in the same jar just as they may happen to be cooked; in fact their mixture is an improvement.


Not only can soup be made from these drippings, but they may also be used for frying or cooking in most all cases where lard or butter is used for those purposes. Three jars of drippings should be kept constantly on hand -- one for frying fish, one for vegetables, and one for soup and meats. This number is necessary, so the grease left from frying can always be strained back into the jar from which it was taken without injuring the other fat. About once a month, unless entirely used, all the grease should be removed, melted, and strained anew back into the jars, after they have been thoroughly cleansed and scalded.


> BUTTER.


When butter has become rancid it may be rendered again eatable by melting it and shaking it repeatedly with boiling water for the purpose of removing the free fatty acids.


Slightly rancid butter may be made fresh for immediate use on the table by rechurning it in fresh milk, and then washing and salting as in the original process for making butter.




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> TO GET A VERY GOOD QUALITY OF COOKING BUTTER FROM SUET.


Place suet in a kettle, over hot fire, with just enough water to prevent it burning or frying. After boiling a minute, turn entire contents of kettle into ice water (or very cold water) in a large flat tub. The white fat will rise to the surface, and is to be skimmed off and placed back in kettle and allowed to boil. Change the water in the tub, and again turn the fat into cold water and skim and again put back in the kettle and allow to boil. Again change the water in the tub, turn the fat in, and skim it off at once so that before it is quite cold you can place it in a churn and work it with milk. This is afterwards placed in a wooden or earthen bowl, a little salt added, and when worked over will yield a very acceptable quality of butter, good for cooking vegetables, pastry, sauces, etc., where butter is ordinarily used. If milk can not be obtained the suet may be turned into a wooden or earthen bowl and worked out with water and salt. It then produces a very good quality of fat, suitable for all cooking purposes and with the strong taste of the suet removed.


In the first instance, if the fat is too cold on placing in churn or bowl to work easily, heat it very slightly. The butter produced from working this in milk has been used to great advantage on hot breads, in vegetables, etc., and will prove a good substitute for the original article.


In the latter case (where worked out with only salt and water) it is to be used solely for cooking. This may be packed away in jars, rolled in cloth well salted, and will keep for a long time.




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In is recommended to use only beef suet, as that from mutton hardens too speedily.


> DRIPPING PAN.


The dripping pan provides the fatty element especially necessary for good pies and puddings, and which is also required for frying purposes. It should be thoroughly understood that the presence of fat and fatty matters in soups or stews is not only unpalatable, but it is deleterious to health.


Dripping is provided as follows: (1) By removing the fatty substance rising to the surface of stock, soup, or stews, which must be frequently skimmed off and placed in the pan. By removing the white substance which adheres to the iron dishes or rises on the surface of the meat, etc., when baking; this should be carefully placed in the pan as above. (2) Before cooking, the excessive portions of fat (for instance, the suet around the kidneys) should be removed from the meat ration, cut up into small pieces, placed in a second pan, and kept distinct from the other.


The fatty substances, alluded to in (1), having been placed in a pan or baking dish, should be melted down and allowed to come to a simmer. A small quantity of water is then added and the fat allowed to cool; the water is then added and the fat allowed to cool; the water is then removed and the residuum, forming a solid block, is turned out and the bottom scraped. The fatty substances in (1) are retained exclusively for cooking. The contents of (2) is fat, and may be reduced as shown above. It may be sold or otherwise disposed of.


> AN INEXPENSIVE ICE BOX.


The arrangement consists of two boxes, the larger one about three feet square and the other one just


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enough smaller to allow a space of about three inches between the two around the four sides and also at the bottom. This space should be filled closely with sawdust or with fine charcoal. Let the cover be attached to the smaller box by straps hinges and the cover to the larger box be placed in position.


Line the inside of the inner box with zinc, and through the bottom bore a hole that will admit a half-inch lead pipe. A hole should also be bored in the bottom of the larger box right under that in the smaller one, and the lead pipe must be long enough to go through both holes and carry off the water that will come from the ice. The latter may lie upon the bottom of the box without support of any kind. The pipe may be soldered to the inside to prevent the water from percolating through.


This box will be found a good preserver of ice, and it should not exceed $1 in cost. If shelves are desired, strips of tin can be hung over the edge of the inner box, with cleats attached on which the shelves may rest.


> RANGES AND UTENSILS.


The Quartermaster's Department is charged with the duty of providing the kitchens, the ranges, and the usual fixtures that accompany them. Utensils needed for the preparation of food, that are not furnished by that Department, can be provided by purchases made from the company or mess fund.


The Subsistence Department will purchase and send to posts articles needed for preparation of food if they are estimated for, to be paid for upon arrival at the post.




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> ARMY RANGE, NO. 4.


The following is a diagram of Army Range No. 4. These cuts represent the latest pattern and the plates used in its construction are numbered and named, so that in ordering repair plates it will be impossible to make any mistakes:



[Illustration: A Detailed and Labelled Illustration of an Army Range. Different parts of the Range are Numbered, and Some Parts are also Shown Separately.]





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> Numbers and names of parts.

No. 400 Back top.
" 401 Right and left end rails.
" 402 Front top rail.
" 403 Front and back protector.
" 404 Flue cover in back top.
" 405 Inside fire-door lining.
" 406 U water back.
" 407 Right and left side linings.
" 408 Large grate frame.
" 409 Grate rest.
" 409 1/2 Crossbar bolts to grate rest.
" 410 Right half of duplex grate.
" 410 1/2 Wheel for duplex grate.
" 411 Left half of duplex grate.
" 411 1/2 Duplex-grate shaker.
" 412 Draft door.
" 412 1/2 Draft-door latch.
" 413 Draft-door register.
" 413 1/2 Draft-door catch.
" 414 Casing plate.
" 415 U-shaped lining.
" 415 1/2 Left guide for feed door.
" 416 Monogram for feed door.
" 416 1/2 Right feed-door guide.
" 417 Feed door.
" 417 1/2 Feed-door frame.
" 418 Front grate.
" 419 Rest for top panel in oven pro- tector.
" 420 Rest for top-panel bolts to oven.
" 421 Oven protecting plate.
" 422 Protecting strip above water back.
" 423 Top panel (with flange).
" 424 Key panel (no flange).
" 425 Range cover.
No. 426 Flue door.
" 427 Hinge for flue door.
" 427 1/2 T knob with catch for flue door.
" 428 Oven door.
" 428 1/2 Army range name plate on oven doors.
" 429 Oven-door latch.
" 430 Left moveable pivot for oven-door latch.
" 430 1/2 Right moveable pivot for oven- door latch.
" 431 Hollow bars for oven-door latch.
" 431 1/2 Socket for hollow bars on oven door.
" 433 Right and left oven-door support.
" 434 Right and left outside oven bracket.
" 435 Right-hand bracket for oven and draft door.
" 435 1/2 Left-hand bracket for oven and draft door.
" 436 Ash pan.
" 436 1/2 Ash-pan handle.
" 437 Smoke box.
" 437 1/2 Smoke-box collar.
" 438 Right and left damper blade for smoke box.
" 439 Smoke-box partition.
" 440 Oven rack.
" 441 Right and left bar brackets.
" 442 Bar in front of range.
" 443 Knob for bar.
" 444 Knob for draft-door register.
" 445 Shelf.


To repair the grates in this range, remove plate No. 418 (front grate) by taking out the bolt that holds it in place. Then draw out the entire grate


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through the draft door, repair, and replace as before.

> LIST OF ONE SET OF TINWARE FOR ARMY RANGE, NO. 4.



One square boiler 31 by 24 by 16 1/2 inches, capacity 20 gallons.

One steamer to fit 20-gallon boiler, size 13 by 24 by 9 inches.

One square boiler 24 by 12 by 13 inches, capacity 15 gallons.

One square boiler 24 by 12 by 13 inches, same as above, with addition of 5/8-inch patent lever bib cock and sliding strainer.

One square boiler 12 1/2 by 12 1/2 by 18 inches, capacity 12 gallons.

One square boiler 12 1/2 by 12 1/2 by 18 inches, same as above, with addition of a 5/8-inch patent lever bib cock and sliding strainer.

Tow square boilers 12 1/2 by 12 1/2 by 12 1/2 inches, capacity 8 gallons.

Two steamers to fit 8-gallon boilers, size 12 1/2 by 12 1/2 by 7 inches.

Two bake pans 21 by 21 by 4 inches, top measure 1-inch flare.

Four bake pans 21 by 10 by 4 inches.

One 9-inch elbow.

> LIST OF TABLEWARE AND COOKING UTENSILS.


The equipment of tableware and kitchen utensils under paragraph 285 of the Regulations is as follows, in addition to the tinware that comes with the range, viz:




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ARTICLES. Allowance for troop of cavalry, batter of artillery, or company of infantry Allowance for light battery of artillery. Allowance for regimental headquarters including band.
Dinner plates...... [Articles of china and glassware upon which an allowance of 20 per cent annum of total value is made.] 60 65 24
Soup plates........ 60 65 24
Meat plates........ 6 6 3
Cups and saucers... 60 65 24
Water pitchers..... 6 6 3
Vegetable dishes... 30 33 12
Saltcellars........ 12 12 6
Pepper boxes....... 12 12 6
Sirup pitchers..... 12 12 6
Bowls.............. 60 65 24
Pickle dishes...... 8 8 4
Sugar bowls........ 12 12 6
Gravy boats........ 12 12 6
Mustard pots....... 12 12 6
Tumblers........... 60 65 24
Dippers........ ....................... 6 6 3
Soup ladles........ ................... 6 6 3
Skimmers......... ..................... 2 2 1
Dish pans.......... ................... 4 4 2
Basting spoons........ ................ 6 6 3
Teaspoons......... .................... 60 65 24
Tablespoons........ ................... 60 65 24
Table forks........ ................... 60 65 24
Bread knives........ .................. 4 4 2
Butcher knives........ ................ 4 4 2
Chopping bowls......... ............... 4 4 2
Coffee mills.......... ................ 1 1 1
Meat saws.......... ................... 2 2 1
Scales and weights......... ........... 1 1 1
Frying pans............ ............... 4 4 2
Meat forks........... ................. 6 6 3
Meat choppers or meat cutters..... .... 2 2 1
Carving sets......... ................. 2 2 1
Cleavers.......... .................... 1 1 1
Mustard spoons........ ................ 12 12 6
Flour sieves........... ............... 1 1 1
Can openers.......... ................. 6 6 3
Graters.......... ..................... 2 2 1
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The dishes are of vitrified china.


The following additional articles would probably embrace all essential utensils, viz:



One teakettle.

Two griddles.

Two gridirons.

Two stew pans.

One butchers' steel.

One nutmeg grater.

Two strainers.

One colander.

Six pudding pans.

Two cake turners.

Two bread pans for mixing pastry.


A monthly allowance of unbleached muslin is necessary for use as cooks' aprons, dishcloths, etc. Soap and concentrated lye for scrubbing tables, and some suitable material with which to clean metal utensils are also needed.

> SUGGESTIONS IN RELATION TO CARE OF TABLEWARE.


Articles of tableware and kitchen utensils lost, damaged, broken, or destroyed, through the carelessness of enlisted men, should be charged on the muster rolls to the men at fault, and a "statement of charges," on the prescribed form, should be filled as a voucher with the return from which any article so charged is dropped.


Breakage of china and glassware not due to carelessness is usually replaced upon requisition, at the public expense, provided it does not exceed 5 per cent per quarter of the total value of the outfit of china and glassware to which a mess is entitled. The value may be determined by prices stated in the price list of clothing and equipage published annually to the Army, and articles so replaced should be destroyed and dropped from returns, on proper


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certificates of affidavits, under paragraph 697 of the Regulations.


Breakage in excess of 5 per cent quarter of the value of china and glass outfits should be replaced on requisition only under extraordinary circumstances, or when the value of the articles has been charged against enlisted men, stating to whom charged and upon what roll.


Estimates and requisitions calling for articles other than china and glassware necessary to maintain a mess equipment, should show clearly the necessity and propriety of such renewal, and if to replace articles lost or stolen, should be accompanied by the proceedings of a board of survey, except in cases where the value has been charged against enlisted men.


Estimates for tableware and kitchen utensils should be made quarterly, commencing with the one for the fourth quarter of the present fiscal year, and should cover such articles only as, with those on hand, will complete the mess outfit as established by this order. To meet emergencies, special requisitions may be made, wherein shall be set forth the circumstances causing such emergencies.


> MESSING.


In camp or barracks, where companies are not joined in a general mess, a company commander should supervise the cooking and messing of his men. He should see that his company is provided with at least two copies of the Manual for Army Cooks, and that suitable men in sufficient numbers are fully instructed on managing and cooking the ration in the field; also that necessary utensils in serviceable condition are always on hand, together with the field mess furniture for each man. At a


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post where all the companies are joined in a general mess, the post commander should see that the instruction above mentioned is given. At such a post a company commander confines his supervision of the mess of his company to observation and to notifying the officer in charge, in writing, of anything requiring remedy. Should this officer fail to apply proper remedy, report may then be made to the post commander. A department commander should see that each company of his command has the necessary field practice each year.


Kitchens will be better conducted if they are placed under the immediate charge of non-commissioned officers, who should be held responsible for their condition and for the proper use of rations. No one should be allowed to visit or remain in the kitchen except those who go there on duty or are employed therein. The greatest care should be observed in cleaning and scouring cooking utensils.


Special regulations for soldiers' fare cannot be made to suit each locality and circumstance. Personal care and judgment on the part of the company officers are relied on to prevent waste or misuse.


By due economy, some part of the ration can be saved and sold, and the proceeds applied to provide additional articles of diet.


The food of prisoners is usually sent to their place of confinement, but post commanders may arrange to send prisoners, under proper guard, to their messes.


Such proportions of company allowances of fuel, illuminating supplies, brooms, and scrubbing brushes as may be necessary for the service of a general mess should be allotted by the post commander.


In the field the mess furniture of soldiers is limited to the smallest possible quantity, usually to one tin cup, knife, fork, and spoon, and such device for individual cooking as may be furnished by the Ordnance Department.




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> DETAILS FOR SERVICE IN POST MESS.


The following details for service in a "Post Mess" have been found to be very satisfactory.



One officer.

One non-commissioned officer -- steward.

One private as chief cook.

Two privates as assistant cooks.

Two privates, as kitchen police, from each organization; detailed for seven days, and to be excused from all company duties.

One private, as a waiter, to be detailed by the first sergeants daily for each table occupied by their respective companies.

> Duties, etc.

> OFFICER IN CHARGE.


Under the immediate supervision of the post commander, the officer who is specially selected for this duty takes charge of the entire messing establishment, and gives all directions for carrying out the system of messing and cooking. He has charged of all persons on duty in connection with the establishment and gives his constant personal attention and oversight to all matters connected with the receipt, examination, and disposition of the ration, the care and disposal of the savings, the procuring, preparing, and cooking of food, and the serving of meals. He hears all complaints and corrects or reports any that seem to be well founded. In case of his failure to remedy subjects of complaint, reports may be made to the post commander. He also has charged of the post garden, which should be the only garden cultivated at the post (except the hospital garden).


The post mess fund may be administered by a mess council, which should consist of all the company commanders present for duty; an account of which should be forwarded, through proper


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military channels, every three months, to the department commander.


The post mess fund is collected and held by the officer in charge, whose account is subject to inspection by the post commander and the mess council, and he makes payments or purchases, on the warrants of the post commander, which warrants are only drawn in pursuance of specific resolves of said council.


A the end of June and December of each year he renders a detailed report of the working of the system to the post commander, with such remarks and recommendations as he may deem expedient.


He has full charge of the lighting and heating of the mess buildings, with which he should make himself thoroughly familiar; also with everything pertaining to the post mess, the buildings being under his immediate and personal control.


The officer in charge makes frequent daily visits to the buildings and carefully inspects the dishes, kettles, boilers, steamers and roasters, etc.


The following are important general matters for care by the officer in charge:



1. To maintain a regular and abundant supply of provisions.

2. To economize the funds and to justify receipts and expenditures by well-vouched accounts.

3. To decide with care upon the articles which should form the soldiers' food.

4. To see as far as practicable that every article of diet is wholesome and nutritious.

5. To acquaint himself as far as practicable with the peculiar properties of the different articles of food, or that food most conducive to the soldiers' health.

> STEWARDS, OR NON-COMMISSIONED OFFICERS.


The non-commissioned officer detailed for duty in the post mess is known as "steward."




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Under the immediate supervision of the officer in charge, the steward has immediate charge of the messing and is responsible for the discipline and police of the establishment, and cases of neglect, inattention, and insubordination are reported to him.


To steward, notwithstanding his general supervision of the entire management, is immediately and directly responsible that the food of the men is properly prepared, served, and cooked, and requires the cooks to give the closest attention to their duties.


To insure uniformity, the steward sees that everything has a place and that it is kept there when not in use.


He sees that the floors are at all times scrupulously clean, the utmost care being taken and means devised to prevent soup, grease, etc., from dripping on the floor and on the clothes of the men while seated at the table. The officer in charge gives this matter his personal attention.


He sees that the white caps, jackets, and aprons are kept clean, that they are not used by the men except while at work in the mess hall, and that when not in use they are hung up in the place set apart for that purpose; that they are numbered in regular series, and sent to the laundry to be washed, etc. -- the aprons three times a week and the caps and jackets once a week.

> THE COOKS, THE PREPARATION AND COOKING OF THE FOOD, AND THE CLEANSING OF UTENSILS, BOILERS, ETC.


The chief cook exercises general control over the cooking and all details immediately connected therewith.


He has immediate control of all cooking apparatus and is held responsible for its good order and


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cleanliness, and while exercising general control of all cooking, gives particular attention to the roasting ovens, coffee urns, coffee-roasting machine, and refrigerator.


The second assistant cook has immediate charge of the steamers and soup kettles, and renders such assistance to the chief cook in the general preparation of meals as he may require.


The second assistant cook has immediate charge of the roasting ovens, and gives such assistance to the chief cook in the general preparation of meals as he may require.

> KITCHEN POLICE.


The duties of the kitchen police are as follows: The preparation of vegetables and bread, the setting of the tables and placing the food thereon under supervision of the cooks, and the removing and cleansing of the dishes after each meal, and all work incident thereto, and such duties as the steward may prescribe.

> WAITERS.


There is no regular force of waiters. At meals each of the first sergeants of companies details a waiter for each table occupied by his company, whose duty it is to assist his comrades in obtaining food in addition to that served.


The waiters march in with their companies and leave the mess hall as soon as the have eaten their meals, and are required to do no other work about the establishment.


The non-commissioned officers in charge of the companies are held strictly accountable that the waiters perform their work with neatness and dispatch, and in order that the non-commissioned officers may give their men their strictest attention, they do not eat their meals until their companies


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are through, and they are seen that the food is fairly and properly divided.


> GENERAL SUGGESTIONS.


Meals should be served at hours designated by the commanding officer.


All men should march with their companies to the mess hall, except the guard and prisoners, unless otherwise directed. No man should have his meal in advance of the time, except the guard and prisoners, or as ordered.


The first sergeants should march their companies to meals and remain in the mess hall as already described until the meals are finished, and should be charged with the duty of preserving order in their respective companies.


The following men only should be allowed to sleep in the mess building:



1. The steward.

2. The chief cook and the two assistant cooks.


The steward should see that the occupied rooms are thoroughly ventilated and properly policed. They should be ready for inspection as soon as practicable after guard mount.


The mess hall may be ventilated in winter by opening the doors or windows for a short time after each meal.


The wash room should be cleansed after use in the morning, and the water-closet properly disinfected by one of the kitchen police designated.


> The Officer of the Day


He inspects and tastes each meal during his tour and submits with his report to the post commander the bill of fare for the day, upon the form annexed, with his guard report, with such remarks and recommendations as may seem proper.




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> POST MESS.

> BILL OF FARE.



Dinner.

----------------------------------

----------------------------------

----------------------------------

____

Supper.

----------------------------------

----------------------------------

----------------------------------

____

Breakfast.

----------------------------------

----------------------------------

----------------------------------

____

Remarks:

----------------------------------

----------------------------------

FORT ----------------------------------

----------------------------------, 189



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> BILLS OF FARE.


What to provide for meals is sometimes a perplexing question, and the following tables are given as suggestions only. The number of dishes can be readily increased or diminished according to the locality and the state of the funds of the company or mess.


A variety in even the same kinds of food can be obtained by consulting the recipes in the Manual. It should be remembered that no good results can be assured unless the company commander makes it his personal duty to supervise the table management of his company and indicate the bills of fare at least weekly. When unable to personally attend he should direct some other commissioned officer to visit the kitchen and mess hall, and these visits should be made irregularly at all meals and not solely at dinner time.


He should know what his resources are and so use them that the best results may be obtained.


The following is the legally authorized daily allowance of food to each person entitled to draw rations, viz:


> THE RATION.

KINDS OF ARTICLES. QUANTITES PER RATION. QUANTITES PER 100 RATIONS.
MEAT COMPONENTS. Oz. Gills. Lbs. Oz. Galls.
Fresh beef------------------ 20 -------- 125 -------- --------
Or fresh mutton, when the cost does not
exceed that of beef--------------
20 -------- 125 -------- --------
Or pork------------------ 12 -------- 75 -------- --------
Or bacon------------------- 12 -------- 75 -------- --------
Or salt beef---------------------- 22 --------- 137 8 ---------
Or when meat can not be furnished, dried fish------ 14 -------- 87 8 ---------
Or pickled fish-------------------- 18 -------- 112 8 --------
Or fresh fish-------------------- 18 -------- 112 8 --------
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KIND OF ARTICLES QUANTITIES PER RATION. QUANTITIES PER 100 RATIONS.
BREAD COMPONENTS. Oz. Gills. Lbs. Oz. Galls.
Flour---------------------- 18 -------- 112 8 --------
Or soft bread--------------------- 18 -------- 112 8 ----------
Or hard bread---------------------- 16 -------- 100 -------- --------
Or corn meal-------------------------------- 20 -------- 125 -------- --------
Baking powder, for troops in the field, when
necessary, to enable them to bake their own
bread-----------------
16/25 -------- 4 -------- --------
VEGETABLE COMPONENTS.
Beans-------------------------- 2 2/5 -------- 15 -------- ---------
or peas------------------------- 2 2/5 ------- 15 -------- --------
or rice------------------------------- 1 3/5 -------- 10 -------- --------
or hominy------------------------------ 1 3/5 -------- 10 -------- --------
Potatoes---------------------------- 16 -------- 100 -------- --------
Or potatoes, 12 4/5 oz., and onions 3 1/5 oz.---- 16 -------- 100 -------- --------
Or potatoes, 11 1/5 oz., and canned tomatoes
or other fresh vegetables not canned,
4 4/5 oz.--------------------------
16 -------- 100 -------- --------
COFFEE AND SUGAR COMPONENETS.
Coffee green--------------------------- 1 3/5 -------- 10 -------- --------
Or roasted coffee---------------------------- 1 7/25 -------- 8 -------- --------
Or tea, green or black-------------- 8/25 -------- 2 -------- --------
Sugar----------------------------------- 2 2/5 -------- 15 -------- --------
Or molasses------------------------- -------- 16/25 -------- -------- 2
Or cane syrup---------------- -------- 16/25 -------- -------- 2
SEASONING COMPONENTS.
Vinegar------------------------------ -------- 8/25 -------- -------- 1
Salt------------------------------ 16/25 -------- 4 -------- --------
Pepper, black------------------------- 1/25 -------- -------- 4 --------
SOAP AND CANDLE COMPONENETS.
Soap--------------------------- 16/25 --------- 4 -------- --------
Candles (when illuminating oil is not furnished by the Quartermaster;s Department)-- 6/25 -------- 1 8 --------

> SAVINGS.


Articles of the ration (excluding fresh vegetables, bread, and baking powder) due a bakery, a company,


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or any organization, not needed for consumption, are retained by the commissary if required for reissue, and purchased as savings at the invoice prices. Savings and sales of fresh beef (except that issued for the sick in hospital, the detachment of the Hospital Corps, and the hospital matron serving therein) are prohibited; baking powder issued but not used will be returned to the commissary. The commissary purchases the savings of hospitals (including fresh beef) at cost prices, when the surgeon in charge so requires; but does not purchase savings of companies, bakeries, batteries, or any organization when public loss would result. When not required for reissue, savings may be sold to any person.


> COMPANY FUNDS.


The savings arising from an economical use of the ration constitute the company fund, which is kept in the hands of the company commander, and disbursed by him for the purchase of food, or articles to produce food, for the improvement of the soldiers' table fare, and for the purchase of white aprons and jackets for enlisted men employed in company kitchens and mess rooms, and for knife brick, dish towels, and other authorized articles.


The prudent commander can, by carefully watching the economy of his kitchen, manage to save a quantity from the ordinary ration as issued to him, and by the sales of these articles, purchase substitutes, in other foods, that will be more satisfactory by giving a variety.


> THE TRAVEL RATION.


When troops travel otherwise than by marching, or when short periods they are separated from cooking facilities and do not carry cooked rations,


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the following articles are issued in lieu of all components of the ordinary ration. They constitute the travel ration.

ARTICLES. PER 100 RATIONS.
Soft bread....................pounds... 112 1/2
Or hard bread...................do..... 100
Beef, canned....................do..... 75
Baked beans, 1-lb. cans.......number... 33
Or baked beans, 3-lb cans.......do..... 15
Coffee, roasted...............pounds... 8
Sugar...........................do..... 15


After troops have been substituted upon the travel ration for four consecutive days, they may be allowed canned tomatoes in addition to the travel ration at the rate of one pound of tomatoes per man per day. Unconsumed articles of the travel ration are not sold as savings but turned over to the commissary. When supplied with cooked or travel rations, they may be allowed 21 cents per man per day for the purchase of liquid coffee, in lieu of the coffee and sugar portion of the ration. If traveling under command of an officer, funds for the same purpose, at the same rate, are transferred to him, and at the end of the journey he transfers the unexpended balance, if any, to the nearest commissary.


> BILLS OF FARE.


The following bills of fare are suggestive only; additional articles may be added as the company fund increases:




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TABLE NO. 1.
BREAKFAST. DINNER. SUPPER.
SUNDAY...... Beef stew.
Coffee.
Bread.
Roast beef, or pork and cabbage.
Potatoes.
Rice pudding, or duff.
Bread.
Dried fruit, stewed.
Coffee.
Bread.
MONDAY...... Codfish hash.
Coffee.
Bread.
Beef soup.
Bread.
Beef stew.
Coffee.
Bread.
TUESDAY..... Meat hash.
Coffee.
Bread.
Pork and beans.
Bread.
Dried fruit, stewed.
Coffee.
Bread.
WEDNESDAY... Codfish hash.
Coffee.
Bread.
Roast beef.
Potatoes.
Bread.
Beef stew.
Coffee.
Bread.
THURSDAY.... Meat hash.
Coffee.
Bread.
Pork and cabbage.
Potatoes.
Bread.
Dried fruit, stewed.
Coffee.
Bread.
FRIDAY...... Codfish hash.
Coffee.
Bread.
Beef soup.
Bread.
Beef stew.
Coffee.
Bread.
SATURDAY.... Meat hash.
Coffee.
Bread.
Roast beef.
Potatoes.
Bread.
Dried fruit, stewed.
Coffee.
Bread.



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> Table No. 2.

BREAKFAST. DINNER. SUPPER.
SUNDAY...... Baked meat hash.
Coffee.
Bread.
Roast beef and gravy.
Mashed potatoes, pickles, coleslaw.
Coffee. Bread.
Rice or bread pudding.
Coffee.
Bread.
MONDAY...... Irish stew.
Coffee.
Bread.
Beef soup, with vegetables.
Roast beef and gravy.
Bread.
Stewed fruit.
Coffee.
Bread.
TUESDAY..... Fried pork and gravy.
Coffee.
Bread.
Corn cakes.
Beef stew.
Bread.
Pickles.
Boiled mush and sirup.
Coffee.
Bread.
WEDNESDAY... Roast beef and gravy.
Coffee.
Bread.
Boiled beef, with gravy.
Beef soup, with beans.
Bread.
Boiled rice and sirup.
Coffee.
Bread.
THURSDAY.... Baked meat hash.
Coffee.
Bread.
Baked pork and beans.
Bread.
Coleslaw.
Stewed fruit.
Coffee.
Bread.
FRIDAY...... Irish stew (or fish balls).
Coffee.
Bread.
Vegetable soup.
Roast beef and gravy.
Bread.
Bread pudding.
Coffee.
Bread.
SATURDAY.... Meat hash.
Coffee.
Bread.
Roast beef or pork and gravy.
Mashed parsnips.
Pickles.
Bread.
Boiled mush and sirup.
Coffee.
Bread.



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> Table No. 3.

BREAKFAST. DINNER. SUPPER.
SUNDAY...... Sirup, butter.
Hash.
White bread.
Coffee.
Bean soup.
Corned beef and cabbage.
Mashed potatoes.
Bread and rice pudding.
Stewed apples.
Tea.
Bread.
Cheese.
MONDAY...... Boiled hominy and bacon.
Coffee.
Bread.
Butter.
Vegetable soup.
Roast beef.
Mashed potatoes and vegetables.
Bread and pickles.
Tea.
Bread and sirup.
Cheese.
TUESDAY..... Baked hash, with onion gravy.
Coffee.
Bread.
Vegetable soup.
Baked beans and bacon.
Mashed potatoes, bread.
Boiled mush, with sirup.
Stewed dried fruit.
Tea.
Bread.
WEDNESDAY... Bacon.
Coffee.
Bread, sirup, butter.
Roast beef, with onion gravy.
Mashed potatoes and vegetables.
Pickles, bread pudding.
Cheese.
Tea.
Bread, butter.
THURSDAY.... Baked hash, with gravy.
Coffee.
Bread, butter.
Boiled beef.
Mashed potatoes.
Vegetables, bread.
Stewed dried fruit.
Tea.
Bread.
FRIDAY...... Fish.
Potatoes.
White bread and cakes.
Butter, sirup.
Roast beef, with gravy.
Fish, with sauce.
Mashed potatoes, vegetables.
Bread and boiled mush, with sirup.
Cheese.
Tea.
Bread.
Butter.
SATURDAY.... Hominy and bacon.
Coffee.
Bread, sirup.
Irish stew.
Baked beans.
Vegetables, pickles, bread.
Stewed dried fruit.
Tea.
Bread, butter.



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> Table No. 4.

BREAKFAST. DINNER. SUPPER.
SUNDAY...... Beef stew.
Mush and sirup.
Bread.
Coffee.
Mutton broth.
Boiled mutton.
Rice.
Bread pudding.
Coffee.
Dried fruit.
Cold meat.
Tea.
MONDAY...... Boiled mackerel.
Fried mush.
Bread.
Coffee.
Bean soup.
Roast beef.
Rice.
Pudding.
Coffee.
Beef hash.
Rice and sirup.
Bread.
Tea.
TUESDAY..... Fried bacon.
Corn bread.
Coffee.
Vegetable soup.
Roast beef.
Cracker pudding.
Coffee.
Cold meat.
Mush.
Bread.
Tea.
WEDNESDAY... Codfish balls.
Brown bread.
Coffee.
Pea soup.
Baked pork and beans.
Bread.
Coffee.
Stewed apples or peaches.
Cold pork and beans.
Bread.
Tea.
THURSDAY.... Stewed beef.
Bread.
Coffee.
Bean soup.
Bacon and greens.
Baked hominy, coffee.
Corn-meal batter cakes.
Mutton stew.
Tea.
FRIDAY...... Broiled mackerel.
Bread.
Coffee.
Vegetable soup.
Boiled codfish and potatoes.
Baked batter pudding.
Bread, coffee.
Dried fruit, stewed.
Mush and sirup.
Tea.
SATURDAY.... Fried bacon.
Fried mush.
Bread, coffee.
Bean soup.
Roast beef.
Rice pudding, coffee.
Stewed beef.
Bread.
Tea.



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> RECIPES

> FOR

> COOKING IN GARRISION.




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> REMARKS ON SOUP.


Meat soup should have for its base uncooked meat and bone, and the water with which it is to be made should be soft. There may be added to the fresh meat the bones and remnants of cooked beef, veal, lamb, and mutton, but the principle nourishment of the soup comes from the raw meat, the usual quantity being one pound of clear lean meat to a quart of water. Success largely depends upon the cooking and skimming, and failure is generally owing to rapid boiling and neglecting to skim the pot. The soup pot must be perfectly clean. The meat must be cleaned. The water must heat gradually and simmer until the soup is cooked; the pot must be kept covered while the soup is cooking, removing the cover only to skim and add the necessary ingredients. From the time the soup commences to boil till it is done the fat and scum should frequently be removed. If cooked meat or bones are to be used, they may be added after the soup has cooked three-quarters of an hour. If the soup is allowed to simmer, the allowance of water given in the recipes will not require replenishing. If, however, it is allowed to boil hard, the water will evaporate fast and require replenishing with boiling water. Fast boiling drives off much of the aroma of the ingredients. Where soup requires seven hours or longer to cook, it is advisable to make it the day previous, especially in the winter months, when it will keep fresh and sweet for a week. IF it is made in an iron pot, it must be strained as soon as cooked, or while hot, into a tin or earthen vessel, for if allowed to remain in an iron pot over night it will be discolored and have an unpleasant taste. When vegetables are used, they should be added only in time to become thoroughly done. To prepare vegetables for soup they must be picked over, washed, pared, and cut into small pieces from a quarter to a half inch thick, put into a pan


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of cold water, rinsed, and drained. Tomatoes should be scalded, peeled, and sliced. Onions fried give a richer color and a different flavor to soup than when used raw. Vegetables should be put into the soup one hour and a quarter or one hour and a half before it is cooked. Potatoes are an exception to this rule; they should be put in only thirty minutes before the soup is cooked. To prepare rice it must be picked over, washed, and drained. Season the soup lightly with salt and pepper when it is to be served. Good rich soup can be made from the heads, tails, and soup bones of cattle. The heads must be skinned and split into pieces. Remove the eyes and brains; wash out with cold water all impurities; skin, wash, and chop the tails into small pieces. Crack soup bones well open. The canned soups are in effect soup stock, and, when according to the recipes printed upon the cans, furnish a good substitute in case sudden calls are made for soup. Fresh stock is, however, the most satisfactory.


> STOCK POT.


A stock pot should be established to provide good soup and gravies. It consists of a cooking utensil, either a boiler or large boiling pot, into which should be placed all available bones, etc., such for example as are collected when the ration meat is cut up, in preparing boned meat, meat pies, meat puddings, and stews. This boiler should be kept gently simmering for three or four hours daily immediately before its contents are required for use. If the meat is properly boned it will provide soup for the men at nominal cost -- of beans, peas, tomatoes, vegetables, etc.


In order to insure a constant change of stock, and that no bones remain longer than three days in the pot, the following system should be adhered to: The bones extracted from the meat rations should be


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placed in a net, with a tally attached, before being boiled; the bones of the second and third days should be similarly treated; after the third day the bones boiled upon the first day should be removed, and similarly the bones of the subsequent days, the stock being continually replenished from day to day. The bones should always be removed from the stock before the vegetables and other ingredients are added. They should be carefully drained, placed in a dish, and kept in a cool dry place until required the following morning. This process adds enormously to the strength of the soup made. The amount of water to be added to the boiler in making stock must depend on the quantity and the quality of the bones.



STOCK SOUP (BOUILLON).

(See remarks on soup.)



4 pounds fresh lean beef.

1 soup bone.

1 gallon cold-water.

2 onions, sliced.
Pepper and salt. Time, seven and one-half to eight hours.


Put the meat and bone into a pot with the cold water and a tablespoonful of salt. One hour before the stock is cooked, put in the sliced onion. Pepper, and, if necessary, salt, a few minutes before straining. When cooked, strain while hot through a colander into the vessel in which it is to be kept, preferably an earthen jar, put it away in a cool place to stand over night. In the morning the stock will be a jelly, with a layer of fat on top. Take off this fat and use it as drippings for cooking purposes. As stock will keep not longer than twenty-four hours in the summer, it is recommended that none be made in warm weather, but in the winter months it could be made twice a week. Scraps of cooked meat and bones may be economically utilized in the manufacture of stock.




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Stock soup is sometimes served as soon as it is made; the name Bouillon is then given it. If it is cold, and it is desired to serve it, it should be slowly heated to the boiling point, but the boiling must not continue. IF it is too rich, it may be diluted with from one to two pints of boiling water to every gallon.


Stock soup may be made the base of a variety of soups. It is also valuable and preferable to water for making meat gravies, stews, hash, etc. It is recommended for its simplicity and convenience.





VEGETABLE SOUP (FROM STOCK).



1 gallon stock.

4 lbs. mixed vegetables (about).

Salt and pepper.
Prepare the vegetables as directed in Remarks on Soup, put them into a pot of boiling water slightly salted, and just enough to cover them, and boil until cooked. About ten minutes before the vegetables are cooked, put on the stock and bring it to a boil, then stir in the cooked vegetables, and, in order that they may not stick to the bottom, keep stirring the soup until it boils up; season lightly and serve. If rice is also used with vegetables, pick and wash it, then drain and put into a separate pot with boiling water, enough to cover it, with a teaspoonful of salt. Boil it twenty-five minutes, or until cooked; stir it and the vegetables, with the waters in which they were boiled, into the stock.





TOMATO SOUP (FROM STOCK).



1 gallon stock.
6

lbs. fresh or canned tomatoes.

Pepper and salt.
Prepare the tomatoes as directed in Remarks on Soup. Stew the tomatoes until cooked; add a tablespoonful of salt; stir frequently to dissolve them and prevent scorching.




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Stir the cooked tomatoes into the pot of stock, previously heated, and stir the whole until it comes to a boil. Season lightly and serve.





BARLEY SOUP (FROM STOCK).



8 tablespoonfuls pearl barley.

1 gallon stock.

Salt and pepper to taste.
Wash the barley in cold water, then cover it with boiling water; let it boil up once and drain it; cover it again with boiling water and simmer two hours, then drain and add to the stock when boiling. Let it stand on the back of the range for ten minutes; then add salt and pepper and serve.





DRIED BEAN SOUP (FROM STOCK).



2 quarts dried beans.

1 gallon stock.

2 pounds bacon.

1 gallon boiling water.

Salt and pepper to taste.
Wash the beans and soak them over night. In the morning drain the water off, and cover them again with the boiling water; add the bacon and boil gently two hours or more; now add the stock. Press the beans through a sieve, return them to the soup kettle, and bring to a boil; add salt and pepper, and serve with toasted bread.





MACARONI SOUP (FROM STOCK).



4 ounces macaroni.

1 gallon stock.

Salt and pepper to taste.
Break the macaroni into pieces about two inches long; put it into a stewing pan and cover it with one quart of boiling water; boil it twenty minutes, drain, and cut each piece in two. Melt the stock, bring it to a boiling point; add the macaroni, let it simmer five minutes; add salt and pepper and serve.


A plate of cheese may be served with this if liked.






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SAGO SOUP (FROM STOCK).



4 ounces sago.

1 gallon stock.

Salt and pepper to taste.
Wash the sago through several waters, then cover it with warm water and let it soak one hour. Melt the stock and bring it to the boiling point; drain the sago, and add it to the stock. Let it boil slowly half an hour, stirring very often to prevent scorching; add salt and pepper and serve.





RICE SOUP (FROM STOCK).



1 gallon stock.

1/2 to 3/4 pound rice.

Pepper and salt.
Prepare the rice as directed in Remarks on Soup; put it into a pot of boiling water, enough to cover it well; add two teaspoonfuls of salt. Boil gently for thirty minutes or until cooked. Stir the cooked rice, with the water it was boiled in, into the pot of stock, previously heated, and stir the whole until it comes to a boil; season lightly and serve.





TOMATO AND RICE SOUP (FROM STOCK).



1 gallon stock.

1/4 pound rice.

3 lbs. fresh or canned tomatoes.

Pepper and salt.
Prepare the tomatoes and rice as directed in Remarks on Soup. Cook the tomatoes and rice separately, as directed in the two preceding recipes. Stir in the cooked tomatoes, then the cooked rice, with the water in which it was boiled, into the pot of stock, previously heated, and stir the whole till it comes to a boil; season lightly and serve.






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VEGETABLE SOUP.



4 pounds fresh lean beef.

1 gallon cold water.

1 or 2 pounds soup bone.

Pepper and salt.

4 pounds such vegetables as may be obtainable.
Time, five and a half to six hours.


Put the meat and bone into a pot with the water and one tablespoonful of salt, and cook as directed in Remarks on Soup. When the soup has boiled about four or four and a half hours, strain it through a colander, return it with the good meat to the pot, leaving out all bones, skin, gristle, etc.


Prepare the vegetables as directed in Remarks on Soup, put them into the soup, and let them boil gently until thoroughly done, stirring occasionally to prevent them from scorching or sticking to the bottom of the pot. When cooked take out the vegetables, mash and return them to the soup, boil one minute, season lightly, and serve. The vegetables can be varied according to season and opportunity, using onions, potatoes, carrots, turnips, parsnips, cabbage, green or canned corn, fresh or canned tomatoes, celery or celery seed, cauliflowers, okra, rice, pumpkins, squash, green peas, string beans, etc.





TOMATO SOUP, No. 1.



4 pounds fresh lean beef.

1 or 2 lbs. soup bone.

1 gallon cold water.

1 onion, sliced.

6 lbs. fresh or canned tomatoes.

Pepper and salt.
Time, five and one-half to six hours.


Put the meat and bones into a pot with the water, one tablespoonful of salt, and the sliced onions, and cooked as directed in Remarks on Soup. One hour and a quarter before the soup is cooked strain it through a colander and return it with the good meat


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to the pot, leaving out the bones, skin, gristle, etc. Prepare the tomatoes as directed in Remarks on Soup. Put the tomatoes into the soup directly after it is strained; stir the tomatoes hard and frequently, that they may dissolve thoroughly and not scorch. Boil gently one hour. Season lightly serve.





TOMATO SOUP, No. 2.



3 pints cold water.

3 lbs. fresh or canned tomatoes.

1 onion, chopped fine.

1 large spoonful sifted flour.

1 pint boiled milk.

Pepper and salt.

Piece of butter the size of an egg.
Time, one hour.


Mix the flour and butter together into a smooth paste. Prepare the tomatoes as directed in Remarks on Soup. Put the tomatoes, chopped onion, buttered flour, and a teaspoonful of salt into a pot with the water. Boil gently for one hour, stir frequently to dissolve the tomatoes and prevent scorching, then stir in the milk (hot) and keep stirring till it comes to a boil. Season lightly and serve.





RICE SOUP.



4 pounds fresh lean beef.

1 or 2 pounds soup bone.

1 gallon cold water.

1 onion, sliced.

1/2 to 3/4 pound rice.

Pepper and salt
.
Time, five and one-half to six hours.


Put the meat and bones into a pot with the water, one teaspoonful of salt, and the sliced onion, and cook as directed in Remarks on Soup. Three-quarters of an hour before the soup is cooked strain it through a colander, return it with the good meat to the pot, leaving out the bones, skin, gristle, etc. Stir the rice, previously prepared as directed in Remarks on Soup, into the strained soup thirty minutes before it is cooked; stir frequently to prevent rice from scorching or sticking to the bottom of the pot. When cooked season lightly and serve.






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MUTTON OR LAMB BROTH.



4 lbs. lean mutton or lamb.

1 gallon cold water.

1 onion, sliced.

2 gills rice.

Pepper, salt, parsley, and thyme.
Time, four to four and one-half hours.


Cut the mutton or lamb into small pieces, put them into a pot with the water, tablespoon of salt, and cook as directed in Remarks on Soup. One hour before the soup is cooked put in the sliced onion. Prepare the rice as directed in Remarks on Soup, and put it into the soup thirty minutes before the soup is cooked. After it is in stir it frequently to prevent it scorching or sticking to the bottom of the pot. When cooked season lightly and serve at once, as the broth is apt to burn.


One or two pounds of fresh or canned tomatoes may be added to it.





DUMPLING BROTH.



1 knuckle veal.

3 quarts cold water.

1/2 cup flour.

1/2 cup chopped suet.

1/4 teaspoon salt.

1 tablespoonful grated onion.

Bay leaf, parsley, and carrot.
Put veal in kettle with three quarts of water. Simmer two hours. Add sprig of parsley, carrot, and bay leaf (optional), and simmer one hour longer. Strain and stand away to cool. When cold take fat from top and turn soup carefully into the kettle, leaving all sediment behind, and place over fire to heat. Put suet in dish, add flour, mix, add salt and enough ice water to moisten; make into dumplings the size of a marble. When all are done place in soup, boil ten minutes, add grated onion and salt and pepper to taste. Serve while hot.






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OX-TAIL SOUP.



2 ox tails.

1 tablespoon salt.

1 large onion.

1 tablespoon mixed herbs.

4 quarts cold water.

4 cloves.

1 tablespoon beef drippings.

4 peppercorns.
Wash and cut up ox tails, separating at joints. Cut the onion fine and fry it in beef dripping. When browned slightly, draw it to side of pan and brown half the ox tails. Put fried onion and ox tails in soup kettle and cover with four quarts cold water. Tie herbs, cloves, and peppercorns in strainer cloth and add to soup. Add salt and simmer three or four hours or until meat separates from the bone and gristly parts are soft.


Select nicest joints to serve with soup. Skim off fat and add more salt and pepper if needed. Strain and serve very hot. Vegetables may be served with this soup. If so, cut one pint mixed onions, carrots, turnips, and celery into small pieces or fancy shapes. Add the to liquor after straining and boil twenty minutes or until tender.





CONSOMMé.



4 pounds beef.

4 cloves.

1 ounce suet.

3 quarts cold water.

1 small onion.

1 small carrot.

Piece of celery.
Cut up four pounds lean beef into dice. Put one ounce suet and onion, sliced, into kettle and cook until brown. Add the meat and cook without covering thirty minutes. Add the cold water, cover kettle, and simmer for three hours. At end of time add the carrots, cloves, celery, and simmer one hour longer. Strain and stand away to cool. When cold remove all grease from top and turn into kettle. Boil one minute and strain through cheese cloth. Season and serve.






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TOMATO AND RICE SOUP.



4 pounds fresh lean beef.

1 onion, sliced.

1 or 2 pounds soup bone.

1/4 pound rice.

1 gallon cold water.

Pepper and salt.

4 pounds fresh or canned tomatoes.
Time, five and one-half to six hours.


Put the meat and bones in a pot with the water, one tablespoonful of salt and the sliced onion, and cook as directed in Remarks on Soup. One hour and a quarter before the soup is cooked strain it through a colander and return soup and good meat to the pot, leaving out bones, skin, gristle, etc. Prepare the tomatoes and rice as directed in Remarks on Soup. Put the tomatoes into the soup directly after it is strained, and the rice thirty minutes before the soup is cooked. Stir frequently that the tomatoes may dissolve thoroughly and the rice be prevented from scorching or sticking to the bottom of the pot. When cooked season lightly and serve.





BEAN SOUP.



2 quarts beans.

6 quarts cold water.

1 pound salt pork.

Pepper.

1 teaspoonful bicarbonate of soda.
Time, three hours.


Pick over the beans, wash, and soak them over night in cold water; scrape the pork clean and cut it into thin slices. Drain the beans and put them into a pot with the cold water and bicarbonate of soda. Cover the pot, heat gradually, and boil gently for thirty minutes; remove the sum as it rises. Turn off the water and replenish with six quarts of fresh boiling water. Cover, and boil slowly and gently for one and a half hours, stirring the beans frequently to prevent scorching, then put in the sliced pork. As soon as the beans become tender and crack, take out the pork and mash the beans into a


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paste with a wooden masher, while in the pot, or press them through a colander, using a wooden masher or heavy iron spoon. The skins of the beans will be left in the colander to be thrown away. Put the pork and beans back into the pot and complete the boiling. Season lightly and serve.


This soup can be made richer by adding half a pound of lean beef for every quart of water. It is put into the pot with the pork. Bean soup is apt to burn, and great care must be taken to prevent it by not exposing it to too great a heat and by frequent stirring.


If soda is not used a longer time will be required to make this soup.





PEA SOUP.



2 quarts split peas.

1 pound fresh lean beef.

1 pound salt pork.

6 quarts cold water.

Pepper and salt.
Time, three hours.


Pick over the peas, wash, and soak them overnight in cold water. Scrape the pork clean and cut it and the beef into pieces. Drain the peas and put them with the cut up meats into a pot with the water. Cover the pot, heat gradually, and boil gently. Remove the scum as it rises; stir frequently from the bottom to prevent scorching. About the second hour, or when the peas have become soft, take out the meats and with a wooden masher mash the peas, then put the meats back into the soup and complete the boiling. When cooked season lightly and dish. Have ready some slices of fried bread cut into square pieces. Scatter them on the surface of the soup and serve. Do this quickly, as pea soup cools and thickens rapidly. Pea soup is apt to burn, and great care must be taken to prevent it by not exposing it to too great a heat and by stirring it frequently.






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OYSTER SOUP (COVE OYSTERS).



6 cans cove oysters.

1/2 pound butter.

1 gallon milk.

1 pound rolled crackers.

Pepper and salt.
Drain the liquor from the oysters and pick them over. Put the milk and butter into a vessel and heat gradually to a boil. Stir in very gradually the liquor, then the rolled crackers. Let it boil up once, then stir in the oysters; let it remain two minutes. Season and serve at once.


Success in making oyster soup depends upon cooking it just enough. Too much cooking hardens the oysters, while if underdone it is not palatable.





OYSTER SOUP (FRESH OYSTERS).



4 quarts fresh oysters.

1 pound butter.

2 gallons milk.

2 pounds rolled crackers.

Pepper and salt.
Drain the liquor from the oysters. Put the milk and butter into a vessel and heat gradually. When warm stir in the liquor; do this very gradually to prevent the milk curdling; then the rolled crackers. Let it come to a boil, then add the oysters. In four or five minutes, or when the edges of the oysters become curled, season and serve.





MOCK OYSTER SOUP.

Mash one quart of canned tomatoes through a colander and boil them for about twenty minutes. Season well with cayenne pepper and salt. While the tomatoes are boiling add a half a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda and let it ferment. Pour a quart of milk and add two crackers rolled fine and two ounces of butter. Let it boil and serve.






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BEEF TEA.



1 pound lean beef.

2 tablespoonfuls cold water.

Salt.
Time, three to four hours.


Cut the beef into small pieces, rejecting skin and fat. Put the meat and water into an open-mouth bottle or stone-jar; close it with a cork. Set the bottle in a pot of cold water; heat it very gradually to a boil. Boil gently for three or four hours or until the meat is colorless. If it comes to a boil too quickly the glass bottle will crack. As the water evaporates replenish the pot with boiling water, taking care when it is put in not to strike the bottle. Exercise the most watchful care while cooking. If the bottle cracks remove it instantly from the pot and transfer the contents to a fresh bottle, first heating the bottle with hot water, and put it into the pot. When cooked strain the tea into an earthen vessel. Season with salt. Set it aside and when cold skim off any fatty particles. Serve hot or cold. If too strong for use dilute it with warm water.





ONION SOUP.



(Sufficient for 22 men.)

5 pounds fat and bones.

6 ounces salt.

10 pounds onions.

4 ounces sugar.

1 head celery.

1/2 ounces of pepper.

1 pound flour.

3 1/2 gallons water.

4 pounds bread.
Chop up the bones and fat into small pieces; place them in the boiler with one gallon of cold water; boil well for one hour. Peel the onions, and cut off the tops and bottoms of the celery, or it will be bitter; place them in a net, and add them with the remainder of the water to the boiler, and boil. At the end of forty minutes (if very large, longer) take out the onions and celery and pulp them; replace them in the boiler with the seasoning and flour


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mixed, and boil for thirty minutes longer. Prepare the bread in dice, place it in the pail, pour the soup on it, and serve.


The remainder of the ration meat may be either baked, broiled, fried, or made into puddings or pies.





KIDNEY SOUP.



(Sufficient for 22 men.)

2 ox kidneys.

6 ounces salt.

1 pound suet.

5 ounces sugar.

1 pound onions.

1/4 ounce pepper.

3 1/2 gallons water.
Chop up the suet and onions and place them in the boiler and let them fry; cut up the kidneys in small pieces about the size of a nut, place them in the boiler with the seasoning, let them fry five minutes, then add the water, and let it simmer for two and a half to three hours. The kidneys when cut up should be shaken about with as much flour as will stick to them; this helps them to brown and improves the appearance of the soup. Two ounces of the sugar should be made into coloring, as the soup out to be clear and of a nice brown color. A tablespoonful of celery seed, placed in a piece of cloth and boiled in it, is an improvement; also some chopped parsley. If it is required thick, one pound of flour must be added. Some carrots and turnips cut into small pieces, slightly browned and simmered in the soup, are a good addition.





ST. PATRICK'S SOUP.



(Sufficient for 22 men.)

6 pounds meat and fat.

1 large cabbage.

6 pounds potatoes.

1 pound flour.

1 pound onions.

6 ounces salt.

1 pound celery.

6 ounces sugar.

1 pound turnip.

6 tablespoonfuls vinegar.

1 pound carrot.

3 1/2 gallons water.
Cut the meat into pieces one inch square, the fat into smaller pieces; place them in the boiler; when


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warm add the vegetables (except the potatoes) cut very small, stir them round so that they do not burn; when they are on the point of doing so add the water by degrees; peel the potatoes, put them in a net, and place them in the boiler; when done take them out and mash them; after the soup has been boiling two hours add the potatoes, with the seasoning and flour mixed, and the vinegar; boil slowly for thirty minutes, keep stirring it, and serve.





FRIED BREAD FOR SOUPS.

Cut stale bread into dice, and fry in boiling fat until brown. It will take about half a minute.




> REMARKS ON FISH.


Fresh fish are best when just taken from the water. They are fresh when the eyes are clear, the fins stiff, the gills red, and hard to open. Unless fish have been frozen or have inhabited muddy streams they should not be soaked. If frozen, soak them in ice-cold water to thaw. If they have inhabited muddy streams, after they have been cut up soak them in strong salt water. A fish or part of a fish of less than three pounds' weight except rockfish is too small for boiling. Exact time for boiling fish can not be given, as much depends upon the size and kind. A piece of fresh cod weighing three pounds will cook in from eighteen to twenty minutes. Salmon should be allowed a longer time, while six or seven minutes per pound will be enough for sheepshead, rockfish, etc. Mackerel need from ten two twelve minutes; herring and many other fish scarcely half so long. As a general rule fish with white flesh require less time for boiling than fish with dark flesh. It requires experience to know exactly how long to boil a fish, although it is claimed that by putting salt and vinegar into the water six minutes to the pound is enough for all


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kinds of fish, thick or thin. Care must be taken that the fish is not underdone, but if boiled too much or allowed to remain too long in the water it will be insipid. The fish is done when the meat separates easily from the backbone. Test with a fork.



TO PREPARE FISH.

Scrape off the scales, remove the entrails, etc., thoroughly wash the fish inside and out in cold water, and wipe it dry immediately with a cloth, inside and out. If the pot is small for the fish, skewer the tail into the mouth, then tie or pin the fish up in a clean towel or cloth and it is ready for boiling.





BOILED FISH.

Put the fish into enough boiling water to cover it about an inch, with two tablespoonfuls of salt and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar to a piece of fish about five pounds to weight. Simmer steadily until done. When cooked take up the fish, remove the cloth carefully, put the fish into a hot dish, pour a hot fish sauce over it (see Sauces for Boiled Fish), and serve, or send the sauce to table in a separate dish.


To boil the roes, wash and wipe with a soft cloth. Put them inside the fish, tied with a thread or light twine, and boil as above; or they may be boiled separately wrapped in a cloth.





FRIED FISH.

Small fish should be fried whole. Large fish should be cut up. Clean and wipe the fish dry, rub it over with dry sifted flour, or better, dip it into well-beaten egg and then into bread crumbs or rolled cracker.


Put into a frying pan enough dripping to well cover the fish. When this is hot put in the fish


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and fry both sides a clear golden brown. Just as the fish is turning brown sprinkle lightly with pepper and salt. When cooked serve in a hot dish.


Roes may be prepared fried as above.





BAKED FISH.

Any fish may be baked, provided it is large enough to admit of being stuffed. A fish of five or six pounds when stuffed will take from forty to fifty minutes to bake.


To prevent scorching place over it a well-greased paper. Prepare a stuffing of bread crumbs, with the sufficient butter, lard, or beef dripping to make the mixture moist. Season with pepper, salt, a little summer savory, thyme, or sage.


Clean and wipe the fish dry, put in the stuffing lightly, and sew up the opening. Lay the fish in a baking pan; rub it over with butter, lard, or beef dripping; dredge with flour, bread crumbs, or rolled cracker; spread on the upper side a few thin slices of raw onion and sprinkle them with salt and pepper; or instead of dredging lay thin slices or strips of fat salt pork or bacon on the sliced onion, and above the seasoning. Put into the pan a half pint of stock or beef dripping, taking care that a part of tit gets under the fish to keep it from adhering to the pan. Bake in a hot oven. Baste very frequently and serve with a fish-gravy. (See Gravy for Baked Fish.) tomatoes laid on the onions and above the seasoning add to the taste and flavor. It may be eaten cold.





FISH OR CLAM CHOWDER, No. 1.

Use firm fish, such as a fresh cod, catfish, etc. Do not cook the heads. Scrape, cleanse, and wash the fish. Cut it into small pieces, leaving out as many bones as possible. Cover the bottom of the pot with


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slices of fat salt pork; place on that a layer of potatoes cut into small pieces; on the potatoes a layer of chopped onions; on the onions a layer of tomatoes; on the tomatoes a layer of fish; on the fish a layer of crackers or biscuit, first made tender by soaking in water or milk; then repeat the process, commencing with potatoes, until the pot is nearly full. Every layer is seasoned with pepper and salt; use only enough cold water to moisten and cook the mass. Cover the pot closely, to set it over a gentle fire, let it heat gradually, and then simmer one hour. When nearly done, stir it gently, finish cooking, and serve. When cooked, if found too thin, simmer a little longer. The tomatoes may be omitted. Clam chowder is made as above, using clams instead of fish.


A chowder may be made as above by using any fresh meat instead of fish.





FISH CHOWDER, No. 2.



1/2 pound salt pork.

4 onions.

6 medium-sized potatoes.

3 pounds fish (about).

1/2 pound crackers or biscuit.
Cleanse, remove the rind, and cut the pork into thin slices; slice the onions. Put the pork and onions together into a pot and fry them brown; then season lightly with salt and plenty of pepper. Sweet herbs may also be used for additional seasoning. Slice the potatoes and lay them in cold water until wanted. Scrape, cleanse, and wash the fish; cut it into small pieces; soak the crackers in water or milk until tender. When the pork and onions have browned and been seasoned, add a layer of fish; on the fish a layer of potatoes; on the potatoes a layer of crackers; then repeat the process, commencing with fish, in regular layers until the pot is nearly full, or till the ingredients are used up. Each layer is seasoned with pepper and salt. Use only enough


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cold water to moisten and cook the mass. Cover the pot closely, set it over a gentle fire, let it heat gradually, and cook and serve as directed in Chowder, No. 1. tomatoes may be added as one of the layers.





TURBOT (FISH HASH).



(Turbot can be made from any kind of firm fish.)

6 pounds fish.

1 quart milk.

1 bunch parsley.

4 ounces butter.

2 eggs, beaten.

A little thyme.

Grated bread crumbs or rolled crackers.

Cheese, pepper, and salt.
Scrape, cleanse, and wash the fish, and boil it until done. Drain it and remove the skin. Cut the fish into inch pieces, leaving out the bones; season with pepper and salt. While the fish is cooking put into a pot the milk, parsley, thyme, onion, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Let this come to a boil; then stir in gradually the flour, blended with cold milk, and keep stirring until it reaches the consistency of thick cream. Take it at once from the fire, stir in the butter, strain through a colander, and when the mixture is about milk warm, stir in the beaten egg and mix thoroughly. Put into a baking dish a layer of the sauce; on the sauce a layer of fish; on the fish a layer of sauce, and so on in successive layers till the dish is full, being careful to finish with a layer of sauce; over this last layer sprinkle the grated bread crumbs, and on these a little of the cheese to form a top crust; bake half an hour with a moderate heat. Serve hot in the baking dish.





BOILED SALT CODFISH.

Soak the fish twelve hours in tepid water, or longer if necessary. Scale and cleanse it. See that


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no crystals of salt adhere to the under part of the fish; put it into a pot, first cutting it into slices; cover with cold water and set it on a rather slow fire; carefully remove the scum as it rises. When it comes to a boil, if not cooked, change the water and let it come to a boil again. Drain well. Separate the flakes, put it into a hot dish, pour over a sauce (see Sauces for Boiled Fish), and serve.





CODFISH BALLS.

Prepare the fish as for boiling. Pick the fish into very fine pieces or shreds, carefully removing skin and bone. Put it on the fire in a pot of cold water; remove the scum as it rises; let it come to a boil slowly, then pour off the water and replenish with boiling water. Let it come to a boil again, then drain well. Have ready an equal bulk of hot mashed potato worked light with butter and milk; mix mashed potato and fish together while both are hot. It makes a great difference in the lightness of the balls if the mixing is done while fish and potato are both hot. Form the mixture quickly into balls or thick, flat cakes. Put into a vessel enough lard or beef dripping so that when melted it will immerse the balls; when this gets hot, drop in the balls and fry to a light brown. When one side is done turn the other. While mixing the fish and potatoes together, beaten egg may be stirred with the mixture to make the whole smooth; or, after being made into balls, each ball may be dipped into beaten egg before it is dropped into the fat.





SALT CODFISH HASH.

One-third fish (cooked); two-thirds mashed potato worked light with butter and milk.


Chop the cooked fish fine; then mash and work it as fine as possible. This done, work the potato


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gradually and thoroughly into the fish; mix in enough milk to make the mixture as soft as mashed potato. While working the mixture, season it with butter and pepper; also salt if necessary. Put it into a pot and heat it, constantly stirring it. Put into a frying pan enough butter or beef dripping so that when melted it will just cover the bottom of the pan; when this is hot press the hash into it firmly and fry very gently; when the lower side becomes brown turn it out without breaking, into a hot dish, and serve.





BOILED SALT MACKEREL.

Wash the fish and soak it, skin side uppermost, in cold water eight or ten hours. If very salty a longer time will be required to soak. Put the fish into a shallow pan, skin side uppermost; cover with cold water; boil gently. It should cook in fifteen or twenty minutes. When cooked take it up carefully; drain well; put it in a hot dish skin side down. Pepper and butter upper side, and serve.





BROILED SALT MACKEREL.

Wash and soak the fish in cold water for twelve or fourteen hours. This amount of soaking will make it sodden; hang it up by the head to drip for eight or ten hours before cooking. Wipe it clean and heat the gridiron on a bed of live coals (wood coals are the best); then grease it well with a piece of salt pork or bacon; lay the fish on the gridiron, skin side uppermost. Broil brown; turn carefully; separate with a knife any part of it which sticks to the gridiron, and brown the other side. When cooked, take it up carefully, put it in a hot dish skin side down, distribute small lumps of butter on its upper side, sprinkle with pepper, put it in the oven for a few minutes to let the butter soak in, and serve.






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BAKED SHAD.

Scrape free from all scales, make a short opening down the belly, and take out the insides. Wash well, inside and out, and immediately wipe dry with a clean towel. Rub it well with salt. Make a dressing of one cup of stale bread crumbs, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a little black pepper. Mix well and stuff the body of the fish and sew it up with a soft yarn. Now score one side of the fish with a sharp knife, making the scores about one inch apart, and put a strip of salt pork in each gash. Place it in the bottom of a baking pan and dredge thickly with salt, pepper, and flour; cover bottom of the pan with boiling water and put into a hot oven. Bake fifteen minutes to every pound of fish, basting every ten minutes with the gravy in the pan. As the water evaporates, add more to again cover the bottom of the pan. Garnish with slices of lemon, fried potato balls, and parsley. When done, loosen it carefully and slide it into the dish.





BAKED HALIBUT (CREOLE STYLE).

Get thick square pieces of halibut or other fish if preferred. Wash and lay on baking dish. Season with salt and pepper. Chop piece of white garlic size of a bean and strew over fish, then pour on cup of fresh or canned tomatoes. Bake until the flakes separate. Dish without breaking.





LITTLE PIGS IN BLANKETS.

Season large oysters with salt and pepper. Cut fat bacon in very thin slices, wrap an oyster in each slice, and skewer (toothpicks are the best things). Heat a frying pan and cook just long enough to crisp the bacon -- about two minutes. Place on slices of toast, and serve immediately. Do not


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remove the skewers. The pan must be very hot before the "pigs" are put in, and then great care taken that they do not burn.





GRAVY FOR BAKED FISH.

After the fish is taken from the pan put the pan on the fire, and stir into it gradually two tablespoonfuls of blended brown flour. Boil up once, season with pepper and salt, remove any black specks, and pour it over the fish.





SAUCES FOR BOILED FISH.

Drawn-Butter Sauce.



1 pint boiling water

2 tablespoonfuls sifted flour.

2 tablespoonfuls butter.

Pepper and salt.
Put a saucepan on the fire; put in the butter and flour; mix them with a spoon (a wooden one is preferable) into a smooth paste; pour over very gradually the boiling water, stirring it well in. Boil up once, season, and serve. If an acid taste is desired, add a few drops of vinegar.


Pickle Sauce.

Add to a drawn-butter sauce two or more tablespoonfuls of minced pickled cucumber.


Boiled-Egg Sauce.

Add to a drawn-butter sauce two minced hard-boiled eggs.




> REMARKS ON MEAT.


Good fresh beef presents the following characteristics: The lean, when freshly cut, is of a bright red color, easily compressed and elastic, the grain fine and interspersed with fat. The fat is firm and of a yellowish-white color; the suet firm and perfectly white. If beef is of inferior quality the lean is coarse, tough, and inelastic, and of a dull


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purplish color; the fat is scanty, yellow, and moist. The above remarks apply to mutton, except that in good mutton the fat is white. In unwholesome mutton the fat is decidedly yellow. If meat is frozen it should be thawed in cold water before it is cooked. This rule applies to all frozen meats, poultry, game, and fish. If meat is tainted, it is useless to attempt to disguise it; it should be thrown away.


Meat becomes tender and more digestible by keeping. If it is be kept longer than ordinary it should be dredged with pepper. It should be wiped with a dry cloth as soon as it comes from the butcher.


Meat must not be placed in contact with ice. It should not be kept wrapped in paper, no on anything that may impart flavor. Before putting raw or cooked meat into a refrigerator cover it with a clean cloth. The practice of taking the bones out of baking pieces and skewering is improper, as the escape of the juices is thereby facilitated. The time required for baking depends on the oven, the quality of the meat, its size and shape, and the time it has been killed; fresh-killed meat requires a longer time to cook. A longer time is required in cold than warm weather.


The time may be generally stated at from fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound. If dripping from the baked beef is not used for gravy, strain it into a tin or earthen vessel, cover it, and put it in a cool place for future cooking. When congealed into a cake, if any sediment adheres to it, scrape it off. Mutton dripping can not be used for any kind of cooking, as it communicates a tallowy taste to everything cooked with it.



BAKED BEEF.

Cleanse the meat; then place it in the pan with the fat and skin side up; put the pan into a hot


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oven, and when the heat has started enough of the oil of the fat commence to baste, which should be performed quickly, closing the oven door as soon as basting is done. The basting should be repeated often during the baking; when nearly done sprinkle it with pepper and salt, and baste. The meat should be served on a warm platter. (See Gravy for Baked Meats.)


If the beef is not sufficiently fat and juicy to furnish material for basting, a tablespoonful or more a stock, gravy, or beef dripping should be put into the pan; putting water into the pan to baste with is improper, as water can not be raised to as high a temperature as fat and does not, therefore, serve as well; besides this, when water is used, the beef is, to a certain extent, stewed and not baked, and its flavor is injured. One or more onions sliced and placed on the beef may be cooked with it.


Mutton, veal, and fresh pork may be prepared and baked as above. They must be well done to be palatable. Before putting pork into the oven, score the skin into small squares.


As ordinarily cooked by the soldier, baked meats are generally overdone and dry. It has been suggested that just before the beef is done it will be covered with a large pan to confine the juices which would otherwise evaporate.


When cutting meats to cook, cut across grain of muscle. Never wash fresh meat before roasting; scrape it if necessary to clean it. If wet or moist, dry thoroughly before cooking.


Do not place meat on ice but in a vessel on ice. Do not use salt when basting, but salt the meat when done.





POT ROAST.

Trim off the rough parts of a nice brisket of beef, and place in a kettle over a good fire. Add one pint of boiling water, cover, and cook slowly fifteen minutes to every pound. Add salt when meat is half


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done. After the water evaporates add no more, as there should be fat enough to finish cooking the meat. Serve with gravy made from the fat in the pot.





BROILED FILLET.

Cut a fillet of beef into slices an inch thick. Moisten them with melted dripping or butter and let stand for half an hour. Then place them on a broiler and broil over a quick fire five minutes, turning them two or three times. Place them on a hot plate, season with salt and pepper, pour sauce around, and serve.





POUNDED BEEF.

Cut the lean meat from a shin of beef weighing 10 pounds. Break up bone and lay in the bottom of the kettle. Place meat on bones, cover with cold water, and let it slowly come to a boil, removing scum as it rises. Peel two turnips and two onions, scrape one carrot, and place with beef after the broth is skimmed. (If available put in half a cup green sweet herbs and parsley.) Also add one level teaspoonful of salt. Cover kettle closely and boil six hours slowly. At end of six hours, take up meat, fat, and gristle, remove all bone, put into a colander, and rub through with a potato masher. Season highly and press firmly into a tin or earthen mold. Strain broth left and save it for soup, using first enough to moisten meat in mold. After pressing beef into mold and moistening with broth, put a weight on to keep it down and put away to cool. When beef is quite cold, turn out of mold and cut into thin slices.





BROILED BEEFSTEAK.

In a frying pan.

The best pieces of beef for steak are the tenderloin, sirloin, and rib pieces. A steak should not be


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less than three-quarters of an inch nor more than an inch and a quarter thick. If beating is necessary, beat on both sides, but not enough to tear the beef and allow the juices to escape.


Cleanse the steak, but do not put it into water. Have the frying pan very hot and dry; put in the steak, cover it with a tin plate or pan, and turn the steak often, preferably with a pair of meat tongs. If a knife and fork are used, insert the fork in the outer or skin edge of the steak.


A steak an inch to an inch and a quarter thick will be cooked in twelve to fifteen minutes. When cooked put it on a hot dish and season with pepper and salt. The juices will then escape and furnish the gravy. Or, have ready in a hot dish a half teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, a piece of butter or beef dripping not quite the size of an egg; add two tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Mix well together. Put the steak into it and turn it over once so that both sides will be moistened with the gravy, and serve.


If this does not furnish enough gravy, add two or more tablespoonfuls of boiling water to the fat remaining in the pan, mix thoroughly, pour it over the steak, and let it mix with the other gravy.


Prepare and broil mutton chops, venison, and pork steaks as above.


On a gridiron.

Prepare the steak as directed for broiling in a frying pan. Have ready a bed of live coals; wood coals are the best. Wipe the gridiron clean; put it over the bed of coals. As soon as heated put the steak on it; broil, turning often. If the fire smokes or blazes from the dripping fat withdraw the gridiron for a moment. It should cook in fifteen minutes.


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After it is dished, season with pepper and salt. If gravy is desired prepare it as directed in recipe for Broiled Beefsteak in a Frying Pan.


Prepare and broil mutton chops, venison, and pork steaks as above.





BEEFSTEAK SMOTHERED IN ONIONS.

Cut one dozen onions into slices, fry a quarter pound salt pork or bacon until all the fat is tried out, then take out the crackling; into this hot fat put the onions, fry and stir for twenty minutes over a good fire; add a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of black pepper, and one cup of boiling water; place over a moderate fire to simmer for half an hour; by this time the water should have entirely evaporated and the onions should be a nice brown. Have ready a broiled steak, place it in the pan with the onions, cover it over the top with some of them, and stand in the oven for five minutes. Then place the steak on a hot dish, heap the onions over and around, and serve.


The Welsh method is as follows: Broil the steak over a quick fire and butter it well. Then slice onions over it; after which chop them up fine on the meat. The onions impart their flavor to the beef, but are not eaten with it. It is important to chop them on the steak, otherwise the flavor is lost.





BOILED FRESH BEEF.

Time, fifteen minutes to the pound, or longer, depending upon the shape and quality of the piece.


Cleanse the meat. Put it into a pot of boiling water, rather more than enough to cover it. Cover, bring the pot to a boil quickly, and let it boil for ten or fifteen minutes; then set it back on the stove to simmer until the meat is cooked. Remove the scum as it rises. The scum commences to rise just before boiling, and if it is not carefully taken off it


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will fall back, adhere to the meat, and injure and disfigure it. While boiling turn the beef several times. If the water needs replenishing use boiling water. A short time before the meat is done put into the pot one teaspoonful of salt for every five pounds of meat; one bay leaf to every pound of meat may be put into the pot of water with the meat. If carrots, turnips, or potatoes are to be cooked with the meat, prepare them as directed under Rules for Cooking Vegetables.


Put carrots and turnips, sliced, in the pot one to one and a half hours, potatoes twenty to thirty minutes, before the meat is cooked. When cooked take up the meat and vegetables, drain, and serve them separately or in the same dish, the vegetables around the meat.


Carrots alone are an excellent accompaniment to boiled beef. The vegetables may be boiled separately from the meat, but will not be well flavored. The liquor may be served with the meat and vegetables, or used for making stock or soup, or for hashes, stews, gravies, etc., instead of water; if boiled in an iron pot and to be kept for any of the above uses, it must be poured into a tin or earthen vessel and kept in a cool place.


When cold, remove the fat from the top and save it for frying, etc.





A LA MODE BEEF.



5 pounds round of beef.

3 or 4 tomatoes.

1/2 pound fat salt pork or bacon.

1 carrot.

6 cloves.

2 onions.

2 bay leaves.

5 gills vinegar.

2 1/2 tablespoonfuls salt.

Clove of garlic.

1 1/4 teaspoonfuls pepper.

Sprig of thyme.

A little parsley.
Time, five or six hours.


Scrape the pork and remove the rind. Cut the pork into strips of a size that can be easily inserted


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into the larding needle, about half an inch thick and not over four inches long. Insert the needle half its length into the meat, then load it with a strip of pork, pass the needle through, and leave the pork in the meat. Repeat this process until the meat is larded to the extent desired. If the piece of meat is too thick to run the strip of pork through, lard one side first, then the other. Lard the beef with or in the direction of the grain. If a larding needle is not to be had, make incisions in the meat with a narrow-blade knife and press the strips of pork into the incisions, or thrust a steel through the meat and put the strips of pork into the holes. The pot in which the beef is to be cooked must not be too large or too small, but large enough to hold the meat without bending or folding it. It may be cooked in an earthen vessel.


Cut up the vegetables fine; put into the pot a pint of stock or gravy (stock is preferable); then spread over the bottom of the pot the seasoning, the cut-up vegetables, the rind, and any strips of pork left from larding. Place on top of all the larded beef, pour over the beef the vinegar, then enough cold water to just cover the meat. Cover, simmer slowly for five or six hours, and turn the meat occasionally.


If there is any fear of the vegetables scorching, or sticking to the bottom of the pot, stir them gently. Do not allow the pot to stop simmering until the meat is cooked.


If the water gets low replenish carefully with boiling water. When done take up the meat and put it in a hot dish, then take up the vegetables, put them around the meat, strain the gravy, and skim off the fat. Return the gravy to the pot, let it boil up, then pour it over the meat and vegetables, and serve. If the gravy is too thick stir in some boiling water. If too thin, stir in a little blended browned flour, let it boil up once, season with


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pepper and salt if necessary, pour it over the meat and vegetables, and serve.


Another method may be used. Powder and mix together the seasoning, dip the strips of pork into vinegar and then into the seasoning, then lard the meat. Put any seasoning that is left into the pot. The seasoning may be varied and the larding omitted.


A beefsteak may be cooked as above, omitting the larding and reducing the amount of seasoning. Time, one hour.





BEEF BOUILLI.

Take a piece of the round weighing four pounds. Tie it into a neat shape with strong muslin, put into a large stewing pan, and cover with boiling water. Stand over a moderate fire, skim carefully, and simmer forty-five minutes to every pound. When meat is half done, add large teaspoonful of salt, and one carrot, one turnip, and one onion sliced. Fifteen minutes before you dish it add two sliced potatoes.


When done dish the meat. Rub together one tablespoonful of suet and three tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir them into the boiling stew. Season to taste and serve in a tureen, reserving enough vegetables to garnish the meat.





TO STEW FRESH BEEF.



4 pounds fresh beef, free from bone.

1/2 pounds onions.

1 pound potatoes.

1/4 pound carrots.

1 pound fresh or canned tomatoes.

Pepper and salt.
Time, three hours.


It is not necessary to use the choice parts of beef for a stew.


Cut the meat into pieces about two inches square. Cut the vegetables into small pieces. Put the meat into a pot with enough cold water to cook it; add a tablespoonful of salt. Cover closely. Put the pot


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over the fire to simmer; skim carefully. When the stew has simmered for two hours put in the prepared vegetables; season with pepper and salt. Simmer one hour longer, stirring occasionally. When done serve in a hot dish. If it is desired to serve the potatoes whole, put them into the pot twenty or thirty minutes before the stew is cooked. If the water gets too low, replenish carefully with boiling water.


If the liquor of the stew is not sufficiently thick, stir into it two tablespoonfuls of blended browned flour. A bay leaf to every pound of meat may be put into the pot of cold water with the meat.


Stew mutton, lamb, veal, and fresh pork as above. The bones of mutton and veal, if small, need not be removed. Add thin slices of fat pork or bacon to a veal stew.


The onions may be fried brown before they are put into the stew.


Too much water is commonly used in making stews. They should be thick rather than thin.





TO MAKE A BEEF PIE.

Fresh beef, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, pieces of butter or beef drippings the size of a hazelnut; pepper and salt on every layer.


Cut the meat into two-inch pieces, removing gristle, bone, and any superabundance of fat. Cut the potatoes into slices a quarter of an inch thick, rinse in cold water, and parboil them. Chop the onions fine. Slice the tomatoes. Roll the pieces of butter or dripping in sifted flour. Put the meat and one or two teaspoonfuls of salt into a pot of cold stock or water, just enough to cover the meat. Cover closely; remove the scum as it rises; simmer steadily until half done. Remove it from the fire. Take up the meat and strain the gravy; keep both warm. Line a baking dish or pan with a paste (see Pie Crust), first greasing the sides and bottom.


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Put in a layer of the semi-stewed meat, on the meat a layer of chopped onion, on the onion a layer of sliced tomato, on the tomato a half dozen or more pieces of floured butter or dripping, on these a layer of potato, on the potato a layer of meat, and so on in successive layers.


Pour over all the strained gravy. If the floured butter or dripping is not used the gravy must be thickened with blended browned flour. Wet with cold water the upper edge of the lower crust; lay on the top crust; trim the paste around the edge of the dish; pinch the edges of the lower and upper crusts together. Make a slit in the center of the top crust. Put the pie into the oven and bake. Keep a moderate heat. It will bake in from one to one and a half hours. If, after baking some time, there is fear of the crust burning, cover it with a tin pan, removing the cover in time to allow the crust to brown; serve in the dish in which it was baked. A bay leaf for every pound of meat may be added when the meat is put in to the stew.


Instead of semi-stewing the meat, it may be browned in a frying pan in hot beef dripping or lard. If, when the dish is full, there is not sufficient gravy, use stock or water. The bottom and side crust may be omitted, or the bottom and side crust may be lined with crackers or slices of bread previously dipped in stock or gravy or water.


Lamb, veal, pork, venison, or any sort of fresh meat may be made into a pie. Use thin slices of pork, bacon, or ham in veal pie, putting them in next to the veal.


Meat pies may also made, as above, from any kind of cold cooked meats, using stock or gravy in preference to water.





BAKED BEEF HEART.

Cut across the base of the heart and remove the valves and all tough fibrous tissue. Prepare a


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stuffing as follows: Mix thoroughly into some grated bread crumbs one small onion parboiled and minced, a half teaspoonful of sage, pepper and salt, and enough butter, beef dripping, or lard to moisten the mixture. Soak the heart in cold water for two hours, then wash it thoroughly in cold water. Put it into a pot of cold water, enough to cover, and boil for ten minutes. Remove the scum as it rises; take out the heart, pepper and salt the cavities, put in the stuffing, secure it with cross-stitches, put it into a baking pan, spread it over with beef dripping, and sprinkle it with pepper and salt. Pour into the pan about a pint of boiling-hot stock, gravy, or beef dripping. Bake in a moderate oven, allowing twenty minutes to the pound. Baste frequently. Be careful that it does not burn. Serve while hot, as it cools rapidly; serve with gravy form recipe for Gravy for Baked Meats. Veal heart should be thoroughly washed but not soaked nor parboiled. In other respects it is prepared and baked as above.





POTATO PIE.



(Sufficient for 22 men.)

16 1/2 pounds meat.

1 pound onions.

20 pounds potatoes.

3 ounces salt.

1/2 ounce pepper.
Cut up and stew the onions with jelly from the meat added; boil or steam the potatoes, and mash them; grease the inside of a baking dish; line the sides with a portion of the mashed potatoes; place the meat and cooked onions in the center; season with pepper and salt; cover over with the remainder of the mashed potatoes, and bake till the potato cover is brown. As the mashed potatoes absorb the moisture of the meat and render it dry, about two pints of gravy prepared from the liquor in which the onions were cooked should be poured into the pie after it is taken out of the oven.






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TURKISH PILLAU.



(Sufficient for 22 men.)

16 1/2 pounds meat.

1/2 ounce cayenne.

4 pounds rice.

1 bunch sweet herbs.

1 pound onions.

1/2 pound flour.

3 ounces salt.

3 quarts water.
Cut the meat from the bone and into pieces against the grain, of two ounces each; put some fat into the broiler; mix two ounces of the salt and flour together; rub the pieces of meat with it, the fat being melted; place the pieces of meat in the boiler, and stir them round, so that they get brown; when nearly brown add the onions sliced; let the whole fry for five minutes, then add the water, herbs, and cayenne, and simmer gently for one hour and a half.


The rice in the meantime should have been well washed and soaked, and then put into a boiler with plenty of water, and boiled for twenty minutes or longer; when done, make a border round the dish with the rice, and place the meat and sauce in the middle; place the whole in the oven for a few minutes, and serve.


If two boilers can not be had, take out the meat, and keep it warm whilst the rice is boiling.


The above ingredients are enough for two large round tins.





CRIMEAN KEBOBS.



(Sufficient for 22 men.)

16 1/2 pounds meat.

1 ounce pepper.

1 pound flour.

2 ounces salt, mint, and parsley.

1 pound bread.

1 1/2 pints vinegar.

1 pound onions.

2 quarts water.
Cut the meat from the bone and into pieces of about half an inch thick and three inches square; beat it well. Boil the onions, strain, and chop them up;


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chop up the mint and parsley, and mix the whole with half the pepper and salt. Make a stiff batter of flour and water; make the bread into crumbs, add it to the batter with the remaining pepper and salt. Now rub the mixture of onions, etc., on the pieces of meat, or, if preferred, press the pieces on the mixture so that some adheres, then dip them into the batter, and run them as they are done upon a small spit, or bit of wire, two pieces of lean to one of fat, and place them in a quick oven; they will take from twenty to thirty minutes; make a gravy from the bones and cuttings, to which add the vinegar, and also the mixture and batter that may be left. Serve very hot.





BOMBSHELLS.



(Sufficient for 22 men.)

16 1/2 pounds meat.

3 ounces salt.

6 pounds flour.

1 ounce pepper.

1 pound onions.

Sweet herbs.

Water.
Cut all the meat from the bone and sinews, reserving 1 1/2 pounds of fat for the paste. Chop up the meat like sausage meat with the onions and herbs shred fine; season with one-half the salt and pepper. (In India it is the custom to mix spices, capsicums, fruit, etc., with the meat.) Make the paste as follows: Place on the table the flour, make a hole with the hand in the center, in which place the chopped fat and the remaining salt and pepper, then put some water in the hole; gradually stir the flour into it until it is all moistened and forms a stiff paste; work and roll it well for two minutes; let it remain as a ball for ten minutes, then roll it out to the thickness required. Have some very clean pudding cloths ready; their size must depend on the size of the shell; divide the paste according to the size, for either 12 or 32 pounders; form it into


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a ball, and roll it out round; divide the chopped meat and place it in the paste; add a little water; gather it round like a dumpling; bring the cloth around it, and tie it tightly, and boil according to size: a 12-pounder, for one person, one and a three-quarter hours; 32-pounder, for two, and two and a half hours. The bones and cuttings must be made into a gravy, and served separate. The meat must be made into balls the size of bullets, and placed in it.


The cloth, before being used, should be dipped into boiling water, wrung out, and some flour dusted over the part the pudding will occupy. This prevents the pudding from sticking to the cloth. Some salt should be put into the water the puddings are boiled in. This applies to all boiled puddings or dumplings made with flour and dripping suet.





STEWED BEEF HEART.



1 beef heart.

1 lb. potatoes, sliced thin.

2 medium-sized onions, sliced thin.

1 pinch cayenne pepper.

2 bay leaves.

Little chopped parsley.

1 head celery chopped fine, or 1 level teaspoonful celery seed.

3 tablespoonfuls tomato catsup, or 1/2 lb. fresh or canned tomatoes.

Butter or beef drippings the size of an egg.
Cut the heart into small pieces, and remove all tough, fibrous tissue. Wash thoroughly in cold, salt water. Put the pieces into a pot of cold water enough to cover them; add two teaspoonfuls of salt; cover closely; stew gently for ten minutes; remove the scum as it rises. Take out the meat with a skimmer, pour off and strain the liquor, wash out the pot, return the strained liquor, together with the heart, the potatoes, onions, tomato catsup, celery, cayenne pepper, butter, and bay leaves; stir them well together; cover; stew gently until quite tender, stirring occasionally. When cooked season with pepper and salt, and serve. If necessary to


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replenish the water add boiling water. If necessary to thicken the liquor proceed as directed in to Stew Fresh Beef. Veal heart is prepared and stewed in the same way.





BOILED FRESH BEEF TONGUE.

Soak the tongue one hour in cold water; rinse in fresh cold water; put it into a pot of cold water enough to cover it; add two tablespoonfuls of salt and two bay leaves; cover; boil slowly; turn the tongue once or twice; remove the scum as it rises; boil until so tender that a broom straw will easily penetrate it. If necessary to replenish, use boiling water. When cold enough to handle peel off the thick skin carefully; serve hot or cold. If to be eaten cold, let the tongue remain in the liquor until cold. A boiled tongue, after it is peeled, may be prepared according to the following directions: Put a piece of butter or beef dripping the size of an egg into a pot and brown it slightly; move it about quickly so as to melt it as fast as possible and prevent it blackening; put the tongue into the browned butter or dripping; turn it over quickly until both sides are slightly browned; add about a pint of stock or gravy, two or three whole cloves, two medium-sized onions parboiled and sliced, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; cover; simmer from a half to three-quarters of an hour; take up the tongue, put it in a dish, and set it aside to keep warm; thicken the gravy with blended brown flour, let it boil up once, pour it over the tongue, and serve.





FRIED LIVER.

Liver to be good should be fresh, uniform in appearance on the surface -- that is, not streaked or spotted; firm; of a bright-red color when cut, and free from nodules. It must be thoroughly done to be palatable.




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Cut the liver into slices a quarter of an inch thick, and soak it one hour in cold, salt water; rinse well with warm water, wipe it dry, and dip each slice into flour seasoned with pepper and salt; put into a frying pan so that when melted it will just cover the bottom of the pan; when this is hot put in the liver and fry both sides a deep brown; then dish; pour the grease remaining in the pan over the liver, and serve; or make a gravy as follows: Put into the pan a lump of butter or beef dripping, the size to be determined by the quantity of gravy wanted, with a half pint or more of boiling water and pepper and salt to suit taste; mix them well; stir in gradually two or more tablespoonfuls of blended browned flour; let it boil up once; pour it over the liver, and serve.


If the fat remaining from the frying is burnt, throw it away and wash out the frying pan before proceeding to make the gravy. Fried bacon may be served with the liver, frying the bacon first, using the fat for frying the liver. Fried onions may be served with liver.





MARROW BONES.

Have the bones neatly sawed into convenient sizes and cover the ends with a small piece of common crust made with flour and water, over this tie a floured cloth, and place them upright in a saucepan of boiling water, taking care there is sufficient to cover the bones. Boil two hours, remove the cloth and paste, and serve with dry toast.





COOKED SALT BEEF.

Salt beef before being cooked should be well washed, and then, when practicable, soaked in cold water for twenty-four hours, changing the water three times.






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BOILED SALT BEEF.

The meat should be placed in a pot of cold water and made to boil quickly. As soon as the water boils the meat must be taken out and the water replaced with fresh cold water; boil it according to quality and size of pieces until thoroughly cooked.





BAKED SALT BEEF.

Prepare the meat as above, make a paste of flour and water, cover the meat with it, and bake in a slow oven twenty minutes for every pound of meat.





STEWED SALT BEEF.

Prepare the meat as above, and cut into slices; have some chopped greens or soak desiccated mixed vegetables, and put them with the meat and a little water in a stew pan; season, and stew gently for two hours.





BOILED CORNED BEEF.

The time required for cooking corned beef depends upon the quality of the meat and the size of the piece. It is done when the bones become loose in the meat.


Wash the meat thoroughly in cold water, changing the water two or three times. Put it into a pot of cold water, enough to cover it. Cover; boil steadily and gently until tender; remove the scum as it rises. While boiling turn the beef several times. If the meat is to be served hot drain it, but if it is to be served cold, let it cool in the liquor in which it was boiled; keep the pot covered. When cold take the meat out and place it between two dishes, with a heavy weight on the upper dish; leave it for one hour or until the liquor is pressed out of the meat. Empty the liquor as it escapes.


Many vegetables, such as cabbage, carrots, turnips, and potatoes are improved in flavor if boiled


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with corned beef. The liquor may in cold weather be kept a day and used to boil vegetables. If it has been boiled in an iron pot it should be poured off into a tin or earthen vessel and kept in a cool place.





CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE.

Wash meat in cold water. Put it in a large kettle and cover with cold water. Simmer gently for two hours. In meantime, remove the outside leaves from a hard white head of cabbage, cut it into quarters, and soak in cold water for one hour. After the meat has been simmering two hours, add cabbage and simmer one and one-half hours longer. When done put the meat in the center of a large dish with the cabbage around it. May be served with tomato or horse-radish.





NEW ENGLAND BOILED DINNER.

Remove bone from eight pounds of corned beef (cut from round), tie meat closely, put in deep pot, cover with water, add one teaspoonful salt, one-half salt spoonful pepper, and boil quickly, removing all scum. When no more scum rises, put in following vegetables, peeled and cut in slices two inches thick:




2 carrots, 4 beets.

1 yellow turnip.

4 white turnips.

1 large head celery, cut in 2-inch lengths.

6 small onions.
Simmer slowly two hours. Place meat, when done, in center of platter, arrange vegetables around, and pour a little of the gravy over all. More gravy may be served in a boat, with a dish of boiled potatoes.





BRINE TO CORN MEATS.



16 gallons water.

16 quarts