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[Illustration: An illustration of an African-American woman wearing chef's clothing.]
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THE
BLUE GRASS
COOK BOOK
>
COMPILED BY
MINNIE C. FOX
WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY
JOHN FOX, JR.
Illustrated with Photographs
By A. L. COBURN
[Illustration: The seal of the Fox, Duffield & Company publishing firm.]
FOX, DUFFIELD & COMPANY
MCMIV
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Copyright, 1904, by
FOX, DUFFIELD & COMPANY
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> Introduction.
IT is not wise for a man who can get sea-sick in a rowboat on a mill-pond to attack a Japanese dinner just after a seventeen days' voyage across the Pacific. I was just that unwise, and for that reason perhaps can do but scant justice in this Land of the Rising Sun, to a soup in which floats bits of strange fishes from the vasty deep, unknown green things and an island of yellow custard; to slices of many colored raw fish, tough cocks' combs (real ones) or even to the stewed chicken which at this dinner at least had been shorn of everything except bones and tough sinews. The other day I tried it again with no better success, and now with the prospect of rice for food three times a day in the field around Port Arthur and no
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bread (there can be no more serious deprivation to a Southerner) I am suddenly asked to think of a Kentucky table and that turbaned mistress of the Blue Grass kitchen, a Kentucky cook!
It is June in Japan, and it is June in that blessed land of the Blue Grass. The sun shines there, no doubt, right now: the corn top's ripe; the meadows are in bloom and along turnpike and out in the fields the song and laughter of darkies make gay the air. It is early morning. The singing of birds comes through the open windows--the chatter of blackbirds and the mid-air calls of far away meadow larks. Through those windows sleepy eyes see wood and field, with stretches of blossoming blue grass rippling in the wind. Another half-conscious doze for an hour, another awakening, and by your bed stands a black boy in a snowy apron, his white teeth shining, and in his kindly black paws a silver goblet on a silver tray. Heavens, how it hurts to smell that mint this far away! The goblet is gleaming with frost, and the mint is still drenched
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with dew. Who was it sang of the ecstasy of awakening on a June morning and being in love? Well, to the wise one who has that blissful state only as a memory a hint is sufficient.
It is now breakfast time. There are strawberries in Japan, but there are also strawberries in the Blue Grass, and I shall not risk international complications by invidious comparison. In the Blue Grass they go with a yellow cream of which I dare not think. You shall find that same cream in a cup of fragrant coffee as well. There is broiled ham with a grateful odor whose source is a mystery; there are plates of hot thin meal batter cakes, each encircled with crisp, delicate black embroidery, and there is golden butter that melts and drips and seeps between the layers. It is too early for game-birds, so those little brown, fat, broiled things resting in the big dish are spring chickens, "frying size," as we say in the Blue Grass, and on another dish there they are again--fried, after Southern style, half submerged in a rich cream of gravy, snow
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white. I can go no further now, for the waffles are yet to come.
You climb a horse now and ride out into the morning and the sunlight and the fresh air, into the singing of those birds and the rippling stretches of blue grass, wheat and barley and wind-shaken corn. Under full-leafed maples and oaks and sycamores where fat cattle are tearing up rich mouthfuls of grass, and sheep and young lambs are grazing and playing along a creek whose banks are grassy to the very water's edge. Three hours you ride, for you must see the whole place that morning. Guests are coming to dinner, and there will be little time in the afternoon, so through lanes in which the wild rose blooms and through woods and meadows you lope for home. How hungry you are! The pike gate slams, the first guest is coming, and up the hill they wind in buggy, carriage, and on horseback. When all are gathered in the drawing-room, you shall see the host quietly lead some man to the veranda--it is a magic signal that need not be explained. Out there are more of
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those frosted silver goblets, flowering with green and "with beaded bubbles winking at the brim."
The dining-room is the biggest and sunniest in the house. On the wall are hunting prints, pictures of game and stag heads. The table runs almost the length of it, and the snowy table-cloth hangs almost to the floor. Before your hostess is a great tureen of calf's-head soup; before your host a saddle of venison, drenched in a bottle of ancient Madeira and flanked by flakes of red-currant jelly. Before one guest are broiled wild ducks. After the venison comes a great turkey, and last of all a Kentucky ham.
"That ham! Mellow, aged, boiled in champagne, baked brown, spiced deeply, rosy pink within and of a flavor and fragrance to shatter the fast of a pope; and without a brown-edged white layer so firm that the deft carving knife passing through gave no hint to the eye that it was delicious fat....The rose flakes dropped under
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the knife in such thin slices that the edges coiled."
After the ham the table-cloth is lifted and the dessert spread on another lying beneath. Then that, too, is raised and the nuts and wines are placed on a third--red damask this time. So much for breakfast and dinner--the old-time dinner. At the thought of supper the pen of this exile halts, and for it the reader may search within.
Is it any wonder that the stories of Southern hospitality are so many and so good? It is said that in Texas a planter will sometimes waylay the passing stranger, and at the point of a shot-gun force him to halt and stay a month. I have heard of a man stopping to spend the night on a Georgia plantation and staying on for twenty years. I have heard of an old major in Virginia, the guest of the father of a friend of mine, who every spring had his horse saddled and brought to the fence, when the following annual colloquy took place:
"Oh, you'd better stay a while longer, Major," the host would say.
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"No," the Major would say, "I reckon I'd better be goin'."
After every mint julep this interchange would take place. At the end of the third the Major invariably weakened.
"Well," he would say, "I reckon I'll stay a little longer." And he would stay--another year. This went on for a decade.
These things I have heard--what follows I know. There was a famous place near Lexington once which I will call Silver Springs, and there was a guest there of twenty years' standing. One morning he went over to the home of his host's son, liked it over there and stayed ten years until he died. But there is yet a better story of Silver Springs. So many guests actually died there that the host provided them with a graveyard. Some fifteen years ago the church near by was torn down, the graveyard was sold, and all the bodies had to be removed. The son of the master of Silver Springs wrote to what relatives of the dead guests he could find. No answer came, and the daughter of the son, who has been a lifelong friend of mine,
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took the seven guests, sang "Nearer, my God, to Thee" over them, and buried them in the family plot. There the seven rest to-day.
Now the social system of the South rested on the slave, and the three pillars of the substructure were the overseer, the black mammy and Aunt Dinah, the cook. But for Aunt Dinah would the master have had the heart for such hospitality? Would the guest have found it so hard to get away? Would stories like these ever have been born? Would the Kentuckian have had the brawn and brain that have given him such a history? Would Kentucky have sent the flower of her youth, forty thousand strong, into the Confederacy; would she have lifted the lid of her treasury to Lincoln, and in answer to his every call sent him a soldier practically without a bounty and without a draft; and when the curtain fell on the last act of the great tragedy would she have left half of her manhood behind it--helpless from disease, wounded or dead on the battlefield? I think not.
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All honor then to that turbaned mistress of the Kentucky kitchen--the Kentucky cook. She came to the Blue Grass from Virginia more than a hundred years ago, swift on the flying feet of the Indian. She was broad, portly, kind of heart, though severe of countenance, as befitted her dignity, and usually quick of temper and sharp of tongue. Her realm was not limited to the kitchen. She disputed the power of "mammy" in the drawing-room, and there were times when all, black and white, bowed down before her. James Lane Allen has written that, going home with a friend late one night after a party, his friend got up at five o'clock the next morning and made him get up, through fear of rousing the temper of this same black, autocratic cook. But when she was kind she was mighty; and is there a Southerner who does not hold her, in spite of her faults, in loving remembrance? As far as I know she has never got her just due. She is gone, and there are good ones to-day who fill her place, but none who are full worthy. Publicly I acknowledge an everlasting
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debt, and to that turbaned mistress of the Kentucky kitchen gratefully this Southerner takes off his hat.
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> List of Contributors
ADDISON, MRS. WALTER E., . . . . . Pulaski, Va.
ALEXANDER, MRS. A. J., . . . . . . Woodburn, Ky.
ALEXANDER, MISS KATE, . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
BASHFORD, MISS MARY, . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
BERRYMAN, MRS. CHARLES, . . . . . Lexington, Ky.
BERRYMAN, MRS. J. C., . . . . . . Lexington, Ky.
BRENT, MRS. C., . . . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
BUCKNER, MRS. HENRY C., . . . . . Paris, Ky.
BUCKNER, MRS. B. F., . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
BUCKNER, MRS. W. T., . . . . . . Winchester, Ky.
CABELL, MRS. C. ELLET, . . . . . . Berryville, Va.
CLAY, MRS. BRUTUS J., . . . . . . Bourbon Co., Ky.
CLAY, MRS. CASSIUS M., . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
CLAY, MRS. JAMES E., . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
COCHRAN, MRS. CAMPBELL CARRINGTON, . . Big Stone Gap, Va.
CROXTON, MISS VIRGINIA,. . . . . . Tappahannock, Va.
DABNEY, MISS, . . . . . . . . . Bothwell, Va.
FITHWIAN, MRS. WASH., . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
FOX, MRS. JOHN W., . . . . . . . Big Stone Gap, Va.
GARRARD, MRS., . . . . . . . . Bourbon Co., Ky.
GODDARD, MRS. MARY E., . . . . . . Fleming Co., Ky.
GOFF, MRS. STRAUDER, . . . . . . Winchester, Ky.
GORTON, MRS. FRANCIS, . . . . . . Rochester, N. Y.
HANSON, MRS. R. H., . . . . . . . Lexington, Ky.
HEDGES, MRS. JOHN T., . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
HOLT, MRS. JOSEPH, . . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
JOHNSON, MRS. W. A., . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
LYLE, MISS ANNIE, . . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
McCORMICK, MRS. CYRUS, . . . . . Berryville, Va.
McCORMICK, MRS. FRANICS, . . . . . Berryville, Va.
McDOWELL, MRS. H. C., . . . . . . Lynchburg, Va.
MASSIE, MRS. W. W., . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
MOORE, MRS. A., . . . . . . . . Berryville, Va.
NEELY, MRS. ROBERT J., . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
PAYNE, MRS. JOHN B., . . . . . . Lexington, Ky.
ROSSER, MRS. THOMAS L., . . . . . Charlottesville, Va.
ST. NICHOLAS HOTEL, . . . . . . . Cincinnati, Ohio.
SIMMS, MRS., . . . . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
SIMMS, MRS. WILLIAM E., . . . . . Spring Station, Ky.
SPEARS, MRS. WOODFORD, . . . . . Paris, Ky.
THORNTON, MRS. RICHARD, . . . . . Lexington, Ky.
WEBB, MRS. MARY, . . . . . . . Paris, Ky.
WENTZ, MRS. DANIEL B., . . . . . Big Stone Gap, Va.
WHITE, MISS ANNIE, . . . . . . . Abingdon, Va.
WHITE, MISS ELISE, . . . . . . . Abingdon, Va.
WYLES, MRS. TOM R., . . . . . . Chicago, Ill.
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> List of Illustrations
"The Turbaned Mistress of a Kentucky Kitchen"
FACING
PAGE
Making Kentucky Corn Dodgers . . . . 10
"Broad, Portly, Kind of Heart" . . . . 36
Aunt Frances, Cook at Auvergne, Paris, Ky. . 64
Curing Hams at Auvergne, Paris, Ky. . . . 98
Aunt Maria, Cook at Mount Airy, Paris, Ky. . 120
A Typical Blue Grass Cook . . . . . 148
Marcellus . . . . . . . . . 172
Churning at Mount Airy, Paris, Ky. . . . 198
Beaten Biscuit Machine, Cutting out the Biscuit 216
Corn Dodgers . . . . . . . . 246
Beaten Biscuit . . . . . . . . 246
Kneading Beaten Biscuit . . . . . . 324
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> Contents
> BREADS
PAGE
BISCUITS
Beaten Biscuits . . . . . . . . . . 1
Mt. Airy Beaten Biscuits . . . . . . . 1
Beaten Biscuit Suggestions . . . . . . 2
Brown Biscuits . . . . . . . . . . 2
Cream Biscuits . . . . . . . . . . 3
Dixie Biscuits . . . . . . . . . . 3
French Biscuits . . . . . . . . . . 4
Soda Biscuits . . . . . . . . . . . 4
BREAD-CRUMB BATTER CAKES FOR BREAK-
FAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
BREAD FRITTERS . . . . . . . . . . . 5
BROWN BREAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
BUCKWHEAT CAKES . . . . . . . . . . . 6
CORN BREAD
Batter Bread . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Kentucky Batter Bread . . . . . . . . 7
Soft Batter Bread . . . . . . . . . 8
Marcellus's Corn Muffins, Nos. 1-2 . . . . 8, 9
Marcellus's Corn-meal Batter Cakes . . . . 9
Egg Bread . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
CORN BREAD (continued).
PAGE
Johnnie Cake . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Kentucky Corn Dodgers . . . . . . . . 11
Corn Dodgers . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Spoon Corn Bread . . . . . . . . . 12
HANOVER ROLLS . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
HOW TO MAKE BREAD . . . . . . . . . . 13
LAPLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
LIGHT ROLLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
MUFFINS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
CREAM MUFFINS . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
MARCELLUS'S WHEAT MUFFINS . . . . . . . . 15
POPOVERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
RICE CAKES . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
RUSK OR SWEET BREAD . . . . . . . . . . 16
SALLY LUNN, NOS. 1-3 . . . . . . . . . . 17, 18
SALT-RISING BREAD, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . 18, 19
STEAM PONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
WAFFLES, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . . 20, 21
YEAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
BAKED EGGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
BOILED EGGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
BREAKFAST EGGS . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
EGGS È LA CRÊME . . . . . . . 24
EGGS WITH TOMATO SAUCE . . . . . . . . . 24
OMELET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
MARCELLUS'S OMELET . . . . . . . . . . 25
OMELET, SPANISH STYLE . . . . . . . . . 26
PAGE
VERY FINE OMELET . . . . . . . . . . . 26
POACHED EGGS, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . 27
SCALLOPED EGGS . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
SCRAMBLED EGGS . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
SHIRRED EGGS . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
STUFFED EGGS . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
ASPARAGUS SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
BLACK BEAN SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . 29
CALF'S HEAD SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . 30
CHESTNUT SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
CLAM SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
CLEAR SOUP OR BOUILLON . . . . . . . . . 32
CORN SOUP, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . 33
CREAM OF CELERY SOUP . . . . . . . . . . 34
GUMBO SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
CHICKEN GUMBO . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
OYSTER GUMBO . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
JULIENNE SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
KENTUCKY BURGOUT . . . . . . . . . . . 37
OKRA SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
OYSTER SOUP, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . 38, 39
OX-TAIL SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
PEA SOUP, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . 40
MARCELLUS'S POTATO SOUP, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . 41
PURÉE OF CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . 42
SALSIFY SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
SIMPLE CHICKEN SOUP . . . . . . . . . . 43
PAGE
SOUP STOCK OF BEEF . . . . . . . . . . 44
TOMATO SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
TURTLE SOUP . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
MOCK-TURTLE SOUP, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . 46
VEGETABLE SOUP, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . 47
BAKED FISH, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . 49
FISH À LA CREME . . . . . . . . . . . 50
FISH IN SHELLS . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
LOBSTER À LA DABNEY . . . . . . . . 51
SALMON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
BAKED SHAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
FRIED SHAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
ROASTED SHAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
TURBOT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
BROILED OYSTERS . . . . . . . . . . . 55
CREAMED OYSTERS, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . 55, 56
FRENCH STEWED OYSTERS . . . . . . . . . 56
FRIED OYSTERS, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . 57
OYSTER COCKTAILS . . . . . . . . . . . 58
OYSTER FRITTERS . . . . . . . . . . . 58
OYSTER LOAF . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
OYSTER PATTIES . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
PICKLED OYSTERS . . . . . . . . . . . 60
SCALLOPED OYSTERS . . . . . . . . . . . 60
VEAL AND OYSTERS . . . . . . . . . . . 61
PAGE
ASPIC JELLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
BOUDINS A LA RICHELIEU . . . . . . . . . 64
CHICKEN ASPIC WITH WALNUTS . . . . . . . . 64
CHICKEN CUTLETS . . . . . . . . . . . 65
COQUILLES OF CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . . 67
CRÊME DE VOLAILLE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . 67, 69
JELLIED CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . . . 70
PRESSED CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . . . 71
QUENELLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
RISSOLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
CREAMED SWEETBREADS . . . . . . . . . . 73
FRIED SWEETBREADS WITH PEAS . . . . . . . 73
HOW TO BLANCH SWEETBREADS . . . . . . . . 73
STEWED SWEETBREADS . . . . . . . . . . 74
SWEETBREADS WITH CHAMPIGNONS . . . . . . . 74
SWEETBREADS WITH PEAS . . . . . . . . . 75
TIMBALE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
TIMBALE SHELLS . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
XALAPA BOUDINS . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
BRAIN CROQUETTES . . . . . . . . . . . 79
CHICKEN CROQUETTES . . . . . . . . . . 79
VERY FINE CROQUETTES . . . . . . . . . . 80
EGG CROQUETTES . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
FISH CROQUETTES . . . . . . . . . . . 81
OYSTER CROQUETTES . . . . . . . . . . . 82
PAGE
RICE CROQUETTES . . . . . . . . . . . 82
SALMON CROQUETTES . . . . . . . . . . . 83
BAKED CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
BROILED CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . . . 85
CHICKEN PIE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
CHICKEN PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . 86
CHICKEN FOR SUPPER . . . . . . . . . . 86
CURRIED CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . . . 87
FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . . 87
FRIED CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
ROASTED CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . . . 89
STEWED CHICKEN . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
CHICKEN TERRAPIN . . . . . . . . . . . 90
BOILED FOWL WITH OYSTERS. . . . . . . . . 90
BROILED DUCK . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
ROAST DUCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
ROAST GOOSE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
BROILED TURKEY . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
ROASTED TURKEY . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
BLUE GRASS RECIPE FOR ROAST QUAIL . . . . . 93
BROILED PARTRIDGES . . . . . . . . . . 93
BROILED PHEASANTS . . . . . . . . . . . 94
BROILED SQUIRREL . . . . . . . . . . . 94
QUAIL WITH TRUFFLES . . . . . . . . . . 94
PAGE
ROASTED PHEASANT . . . . . . . . . . . 95
RABBIT, ROASTED . . . . . . . . . . . 95
ROASTED VENISON . . . . . . . . . . . 95
BLUE GRASS HAMS
Baked Ham . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Col. Wm. Rhodes Estill's Recipe for Curing Hams 98
Ham Cooked in Wine . . . . . . . . . 99
Kentucky Baked Ham . . . . . . . . . 99
Sugar-cured Hams . . . . . . . . . . 100
BAKED HASH . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
BEEF A LÀ MODE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . 101, 102
BROILED STEAK . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
BROILED VENISON . . . . . . . . . . . 103
FRIED FROGS' LEGS . . . . . . . . . . . 104
HAMBURG STEAK . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
HENRY CLAY'S FAVORITE DISH . . . . . . . . 104
LAMB CHOPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
LOBSTER OR SALMON CHOPS . . . . . . . . . 106
MEAT CAKES FOR BREAKFAST . . . . . . . . 106
SADDLE OF MUTTON . . . . . . . . . . . 107
ROAST MUTTON . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
ROAST BEEF, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . 108
ROAST PIG . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
SAUSAGE MEAT . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
SCRAPPLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
SPICED BEEF ROUND . . . . . . . . . . . 111
PAGE
STEWED TONGUE . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
TERRAPIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
HOW TO OPEN TERRAPIN . . . . . . . . . . 112
HOW TO DRESS TERRAPIN . . . . . . . . . 113
HOW TO CORN BEEF . . . . . . . . . . . 113
HOW TO BOIL CORNED BEEF . . . . . . . . . 114
VEAL LOAF . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
VENISON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
AGRA DOLCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
A GOOD SAUCE FOR COLD MEATS AND FISH . . . . 118
APPLE SAUCE FOR DUCK . . . . . . . . . . 118
CAPER SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
CELERY SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
CHAMPIGNON SAUCE FOR BOUDINS . . . . . . . 119
CHAMPIGNON SAUCE FOR QUENELLES . . . . . . 120
CHESTNUT STUFFING FOR TURKEY . . . . . . . 120
CRANBERRY SAUCE FOR TURKEY . . . . . . . . 121
CUCUMBER SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
DRAWN BUTTER FOR FOWL . . . . . . . . . 122
FISH SAUCE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . 122, 123
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . 123
HORSERADISH SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . 124
MINT SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
MUSTARD SAUCE FOR COLD MEATS . . . . . . . 124
OYSTER SAUCE FOR TURKEY . . . . . . . . . 125
SAUCE FOR CROQUETTES . . . . . . . . . . 125
PAGE
SAUCE FOR MEATS . . . . . . . . . . . 126
SAUCE FOR QUENELLES . . . . . . . . . . 126
SAUCE REMOLADE . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
SAUCE FOR XALAPA BOUDINS . . . . . . . . 127
TARTARE SAUCE FOR FISH . . . . . . . . . 128
TIMBALE SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
TOMATO SAUCE FOR STEAKS AND CHOPS . . . . . 129
TOMATO SAUCE FOR RICE CROQUETTES . . . . . . 129
TRUFFLE SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
VENISON SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
WHITE SAUCE FOR CRÊME DE VOLAILLE . . . 131
WINE SAUCE FOR MUTTON . . . . . . . . . 131
ASPARAGUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
BAKED BEANS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
LIMA BEANS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
STRING BEANS . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
BAKED CABBAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
BAKED CAULIFLOWER . . . . . . . . . . . 135
BOILED CAULIFLOWER . . . . . . . . . . 135
BLUE GRASS CORN PUDDING . . . . . . . . . 136
MRS. TALBOT'S CORN PUDDING . . . . . . . . 136
CORN FRITTERS, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . 137
BAKED EGG-PLANT . . . . . . . . . . . 137
FRIED EGG-PLANT . . . . . . . . . . . 138
EGG-PLANT PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . 138
GREEN CORN CUSTARD WITH BROILED TOMATOES . . . 139
HOMINY PUFFS . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
PAGE
MACARONI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
HOW TO COOK MACARONI . . . . . . . . . . 141
SPAGHETTI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
BROILED MUSHROOMS . . . . . . . . . . . 141
STEWED MUSHROOMS . . . . . . . . . . . 142
BOILED OKRA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
OKRA AND CORN . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
OKRA AND TOMATOES . . . . . . . . . . . 143
ONIONS FOR BREAKFAST . . . . . . . . . . 143
STEWED ONIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
POTATO CHIPS . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
POTATOES BAKED IN THEIR JACKETS . . . . . . 144
STEWED POTATOES . . . . . . . . . . . 145
STUFFED POTATOES . . . . . . . . . . . 145
POTATOES EN SURPRISE . . . . . . . . . . 146
PEPPERS STUFFED WITH CORN . . . . . . . . 146
DELICIOUS WAY TO COOK RICE . . . . . . . . 147
SALSIFY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
SALSIFY FRITTERS . . . . . . . . . . . 147
SPINACH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
CREAMED SPINACH . . . . . . . . . . . 148
SUCCOTASH . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
BAKED TOMATOES . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
FRIED GREEN TOMATOES . . . . . . . . . . 149
FRIED TOMATOES . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
SCALLOPED TOMATOES . . . . . . . . . . 149
CAULIFLOWER SALAD . . . . . . . . . . . 151
CELERY SALAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
PAGE
CHICKEN SALAD, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . 151, 152
COLD SLAW, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . 153
EGG SALAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
FRUIT SALAD, NOS. 1-3 . . . . . . . . . 154
GRAPE-FRUIT AND ENGLISH WALNUT SALAD . . . . 155
LOBSTER SALAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
NUT SALAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
ORANGE SALAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
POTATO SALAD, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . 156, 157
SALMON SALAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
SHRIMP SALAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
TOMATO SALAD, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . 158
VEGETABLE SALAD . . . . . . . . . . . 159
DRESSING FOR MEATS OR SALADS . . . . . . . 161
FRENCH DRESSING . . . . . . . . . . . 161
MAYONNAISE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
ICE CREAM
ALMOND ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . 165
APRICOT ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . 165
BANANA ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . 166
BISCUIT GLACÊ, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . 166, 167
BURNT ALMOND CREAM . . . . . . . . . . 167
CARAMEL ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . 168
FROZEN CUSTARD WITH FRUIT . . . . . . . . 168
PAGE
FROZEN PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
FRUIT ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . 169
LEMON ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . 170
MACAROON ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . 170
MAPLE MOUSSE . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
MARCELLUS'S CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM . . . . . . 172
METROPOLITAN ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . 172
MRS. BASHFORD'S TUTTI-FRUTTI ICE CREAM . . . . 173
TUTTI-FRUTTI ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . 173
NESSELRODE PUDDING, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . 174, 175
NICE FOUNDATION FOR ICE CREAM . . . . . . . 176
NUT ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
ORANGE ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . 177
ORANGE SOUFFLÉ . . . . . . . . . 177
MARCELLUS'S PEACH ICE CREAM . . . . . . . 178
PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . 178
PISTACHIO ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . 179
RASPBERRY ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . 179
STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . 180
SULTANA ROLL OR FROZEN WATERMELON . . . . . 180
VANILLA ICE CREAM, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . 181
ICE CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
CHAMPAGNE ICE . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
CRANBERRY PUNCH . . . . . . . . . . . 183
CRÉME DE MENTHE PUNCH . . . . . . . 184
FROZEN EGG-NOG . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
PAGE
GRAPE ICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
MADEIRA ICE . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
ORANGE ICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
ROMAN PUNCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
SHERBET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
SHERRY PUNCH . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
STRAWBERRY ICE . . . . . . . . . . . 187
BAVARIAN CREAM WITH ALMONDS . . . . . . . 189
BAVARIAN CREAM WITH PINEAPPLE . . . . . . . 190
BEAUTIFUL CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . 190
BIVEAU CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
CHARLOTTE POLONNAISE . . . . . . . . . . 191
CHARLOTTE RUSSE . . . . . . . . . . . 192
CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM . . . . . . . . 193
CHOCOLATE BLANC-MANGE . . . . . . . . . 193
MRS. BRUTUS CLAY'S CHARLOTTE RUSSE . . . . . 194
NICE WAY TO COOK APPLES . . . . . . . . . 194
SPANISH CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
TAPIOCA AND APPLES . . . . . . . . . . 195
VELVET CREAM . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
BEST WINE JELLY . . . . . . . . . . . 197
FRUIT JELLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
MRS. PRESTON'S WINE JELLY . . . . . . . . 198
PAGE
NUT JELLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
ORANGE JELLY . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
WINE JELLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS . . . . . . . . . 201
PUFF PASTE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
CHOCOLATE PIE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . 203
COCOANUT PIE . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
CRANBERRY PIE . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
CREAM PIE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . 205, 206
IRISH POTATO PIE . . . . . . . . . . . 206
LEMON PIE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . 207
MINCE MEAT FOR PIES, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . 208, 209
ORANGE PIE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
PUMPKIN PIE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE . . . . . . . . . . 211
SWEET POTATO PIE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . 212
TRANSPARENT PIE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . 213
WHIPPED CREAM PIE . . . . . . . . . . . 214
WOODBURN ORANGE SHORTCKE . . . . . . . . 214
ALMOND MANDALINES . . . . . . . . . . . 215
A RICH AND DELICIOUS NUT PUDDING . . . . . . 216
APPLE PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
BLACK PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
PAGE
BLUE GRASS PUDDINGS . . . . . . . . . . 217
CABINET PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . 218
CARAMEL PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . 219
CHOCOLATE CUSTARD . . . . . . . . . . . 219
CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . 220
CHOCOLATE PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . 220
STEAMED CHOCOLATE PUDDING . . . . . . . . 221
COCOANUT PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . 222
COTTAGE PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . 222
DELICIOUS CREAM PUDDING . . . . . . . . . 223
DIXIE PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
FIG PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
FINE ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING . . . . . . . . 224
FLOAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
INDIAN PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
JEFF DAVIS PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . 226
KENILWORTH PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . 226
LADY LEE PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . 227
NUT PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
ORANGE PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
PLUM PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
PRUNE PUDDING, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . 229, 230
RICE PUDDING, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . 230, 231
SCOTCH PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
SNOW PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
STEAMED WHITE PUDDING . . . . . . . . . 232
SUNDERLAND PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . 232
TAPIOCA PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . 233
TIPSY PARSON . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
VIRGINIA PLUM PUDDING . . . . . . . . . 234
YORKSHIRE PUDDING . . . . . . . . . . . 235
PAGE
DELICIOUS SAUCE FOR COTTAGE PUDDING . . . . . 237
FOAMING SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
HARD SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
HARD SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING . . . . . . . 238
LEMON SAUCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
SAUCE FOR BLUE GRASS PUDDING . . . . . . . 239
SAUCE FOR CAKES AND PUDDINGS . . . . . . . 240
SAUCE (LADY LEE PUDDING) . . . . . . . . 240
VERY FINE SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING . . . . . . 241
ALMOND WAFERS . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
ANGEL'S FOOD CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . 243
BLACK CAKE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . 244-246
BLACKBERRY CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . 246
BLUE GRASS PLUM CAKE . . . . . . . . . . 247
BLUE GRASS WHITE CAKE . . . . . . . . . 248
CARAMEL LAYER CAKE . . . . . . . . . . 248
CHOCOLATE LAYER CAKE . . . . . . . . . . 249
CRULLERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
DEVIL'S FOOD CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . 251
DOUGHNUTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
EXCELLENT DOUGHNUTS . . . . . . . . . . 252
RAISED DOUGHNUTS . . . . . . . . . . . 253
EXCELLENT MARBLE CAKE . . . . . . . . . 253
PAGE
FRUIT CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
WHITE FRUIT CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . 255
FRUIT COOKIES . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
FRUIT AND DELICATE CAKE . . . . . . . . . 256
SOFT GINGER BREAD, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . 257, 258
JUMBLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
DROP JUMBLES . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
KENTUCKY CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . 259
MOUNTAIN CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
MRS. HENRY CLAY'S DROP CAKES . . . . . . . 261
OLD VIRGINIA CHRISTMAS CAKE . . . . . . . 261
PECAN CAKE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . 262
POMMES DE TERRE . . . . . . . . . . . 263
POUND CAKE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . 263
ROBERT LEE JELLY CAKE . . . . . . . . . 264
SIMPLE WHITE CUP CAKE . . . . . . . . . 265
SPICE CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
ALLEGHANY TEA CAKES . . . . . . . . . . 266
GERMAN TEA CAKES . . . . . . . . . . . 266
TEA CAKES, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . 267
TIP-TOP CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
VELVET SPONGE CAKE . . . . . . . . . . 268
VENETIAN CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
WASHINGTON CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . 269
WHITE CAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270
WHITE SPONGE CAKE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . 271
ALMOND FILLING, NOS. 1-3 . . . . . . . 273, 274
BOILED ICING . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
PAGE
CARAMEL ICING . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
CHOCOLATE ICING . . . . . . . . . . . 275
COCOANUT FILLING . . . . . . . . . . . 276
FRUIT FILLING . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
LEMON FILLING . . . . . . . . . . . . 277
LEMON JELLY FOR CAKE . . . . . . . . . . 277
MARSHMALLOW FILLING . . . . . . . . . . 277
NUT FILLING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
PRALINE ICING . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
WHITE CREAM CARAMEL FILLING . . . . . . . 278
BLUE GRASS APPLE TODDY . . . . . . . . . 281
HOT APPLE TODDY . . . . . . . . . . . 281
OLD-FASHIONED KENTUCKY TODDY . . . . . . . 282
BOURBON WHISKY PUNCH . . . . . . . . . . 282
CHERRY SHRUB . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
CHOCOLATE, NOS. 1-3 . . . . . . . . . 283, 284
CLARET CUP . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
COFFEE, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . . 285
EGG-NOG . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
VERY FINE EGG-NOG . . . . . . . . . . . 286
KENTUCKY CATAWBA PUNCH . . . . . . . . . 287
KENTUCKY CHAMPAGNE PUNCH . . . . . . . . 287
PENDENNIS CLUB MINT JULEP . . . . . . . . 288
PUNCH, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . . . . 289
PUNCH À LA REGENT . . . . . . . . 290
ROMAN PUNCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
SHERRY COBBLER . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
PAGE
TOM AND JERRY . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
XALAPA PUNCH . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
BRANDIED PEACHES, NOS. 1-2 . . . . . . . . 293
VERY FINE BRANDIED PEACHES . . . . . . . . 294
BLACKBERRY CORDIAL . . . . . . . . . . 295
BLACKBERRY WINE . . . . . . . . . . . 295
STRAWBERRY WINE . . . . . . . . . . . 296
GRAPE WINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
BLUE GRASS GREEN TOMATO PICKLE . . . . . . 297
BOURBON PICKLE . . . . . . . . . . . . 298
CABBAGE PICKLE . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
CAULIFLOWER PICKLE . . . . . . . . . . 299
CHOPPED CUCUMBER PICKLE . . . . . . . . . 300
CHOPPED PICKLE . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
CHOW-CHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302
DELICIOUS CUCUMBER PICKLE . . . . . . . . 302
EXCELLENT MIXED PICKLES . . . . . . . . . 303
GREEN MANGO PICKLES . . . . . . . . . . 304
GREEN PICKLE . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
GREEN SWEETMEATS . . . . . . . . . . . 306
HAYDEN SALAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
PAGE
KENTUCKY CHOW-CHOW . . . . . . . . . . 307
MRS. BRENT'S YELLOW PICKLE . . . . . . . . 308
YELLOW PICKLE . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
OIL MANGOES . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
ONION PICKLE . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
PEPPER MANGOES . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
PICKLED WALNUTS . . . . . . . . . . . 312
PLAIN CUCUMBER PICKLE . . . . . . . . . 312
ROUGH-AND-READY PICKLE . . . . . . . . . 313
View page [xxii]
> EGGS
View page [xxiii]
> SOUPS
View page [xxiv]
> FISH
> OYSTERS
View page [xxv]
> ENTRÉES
> CROQUETTES
View page [xxvi]
> FOWL
> GAME
View page [xxvii]
> MEATS
View page [xxviii]
>
SAUCES (FOR ENTRÉES, FISH,
FOWL, AND MEATS)
View page [xxix]
> VEGETABLES
View page [xxx]
> SALADS
View page [xxxi]
> DRESSINGS FOR SALADS
View page [xxxii]
>
ICES, PUNCHES, AND
SHERBETS
View page [xxxiii]
>
CREAMS AND OTHER
DESSERTS
> JELLIES
View page [xxxiv]
> PASTRY
> PUDDINGS
View page [xxxv]
View page [xxxvi]
> SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS
> CAKES
View page [xxxvii]
> FILLINGS FOR CAKES
View page [xxxviii]
> BEVERAGES
View page [xxxix]
> BRANDIED PEACHES
> WINES
> PICKLES
View page [xl]
