View page [title page]
THE
BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL
COOK BOOK.
>
BY
FANNIE MERRITT FARMER,
PRINCIPAL OF THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL.
LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY.
1896.
View page [dedication]
TO
MRS. WILLIAM B. SEWALL,
President of the Boston Cooking-school,
IN APPRECIATION OF HER HELPFUL ENCOURAGEMENT AND
UNITING EFFORTS IN PROMOTING THE WORK OF
SCENTIFIC COOKERY, WHICH MEANS THE
ELEVATION OF THE HUMAN RACE,
THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
BY THE AUTHOR.
View page [NONE OF THE ABOVE]
Cookery means the knowledge of Medea and of Circe and of Helen and of the Queen of Sheba. It means the knowledge of all herbs and fruits and balms and spices, and all that is healing and sweet in the fields and groves and savory in meals. It means carefulness and inventiveness and willingness and readiness of appliances. It means the economy of your grandmothers and the science of the modern chemist: it means much testing and no wasting; it means English thoroughness and French art and Arabian hospitality; and, in fine, it means that you are to be perfectly and always ladies--loaf givers.--RUSKIN.
View page [preface]
> PREFACE.
"BUT for life the universe were nothing; and all that has life requires nourishment."
With the progress of knowledge the needs of the human body have not been forgotten. During the last decade much time has been given by scientists to the study of foods and their dietetic value, and it is a subject which rightfully should demand much consideration from all. I certainly feel that the time is not far distant when a knowledge of the principles of diet will be an essential part of one's education. Then mankind will eat to live, will be able to do better mental and physical work, and disease will be less frequent.
At the earnest solicitation of educators, pupils, and friends, I have been urged to prepare this book, and I trust it may be a help to many who need its aid. It is my wish that it may not only be looked upon as a compilation of tried and tested recipes, but that it may awaken an interest through its condensed scientific knowledge which will lead to deeper thought and broader study of what to eat.
View page [table of contents]
> TABLE OF CONTENTS.
FOOD............................................................ 1
PAGE
Food............................................................ 1
Correct Proportions of Food..................................... 2
Water........................................................... 4
Salts........................................................... 5
Starch.......................................................... 5
Sugar........................................................... 6
Gum Pectose and Cellulose....................................... 8
Fats and Oils................................................... 8
Milk............................................................ 9
PAGE
Milk for the Sick............................................... 11
Butter.......................................................... 11
Cheese.......................................................... 12
Fruits.......................................................... 13
Vegetable Acids, and where found................................ 14
Condiments...................................................... 14
Flavoring Extracts.............................................. 16
COOKERY......................................................... 17
Fire............................................................ 18
How to Build a Fire............................................. 19
Ways of Cooking................................................. 21
Various Ways of Preparing Food for Cooking...................... 25
How to Bone a Bird.............................................. 27
How to Measure.................................................. 27
how to Combine Ingredients...................................... 29
Ways of preserving.............................................. 30
Table Measures and Weights...................................... 32
Time Tables for Cooking......................................... 32
BEVERAGES....................................................... 36
Tea............................................................. 36
How to Make Tea................................................. 38
Five o'clock Tea................................................ 38
Russian Tea..................................................... 38
Iced Tea........................................................ 38
Coffee.......................................................... 38
Filtered Coffee................................................. 41
Boiled Coffee................................................... 41
After-Dinner Coffee (Black Coffee, or Café Noir)................ 43
Kola............................................................ 43
Cocoa and Chocolate............................................. 43
Cocoa shells.................................................... 44
Cracked Cocoa................................................... 44
Breakfast Cocoa................................................. 45
Reception Cocoa................................................. 45
Brandy Cocoa.................................................... 45
Chocolate....................................................... 45
FRUIT DRINKS.................................................... 46
PAGE
Lemonade........................................................ 46
Pineapple Lemonade.............................................. 46
Orangeade....................................................... 46
Mint Julep...................................................... 46
Claret Punch.................................................... 47
PAGE
Fruit Punch I................................................... 47
Fruit Punch II.................................................. 47
Ginger Punch.................................................... 47
Unfermented Grape Juice......................................... 48
BREAD AND BREAD MAKING.......................................... 49
Yeast........................................................... 52
Bread Making.................................................... 53
Baking Bread.................................................... 55
Care of Bread after Baking...................................... 55
Water Bread..................................................... 57
Milk and Water.................................................. 58
Entire Wheat Bread.............................................. 58
Entire Wheat Bread and Flour Bread.............................. 59
Graham Bread.................................................... 59
Third Bread..................................................... 59
Quaker Oats Bread............................................... 59
Rye Bread....................................................... 60
Boston Brown Bread.............................................. 60
Indian Bread.................................................... 61
Steamed Graham Bread............................................ 61
Parker House Rolls.............................................. 61
Salad or Dinner Rolls........................................... 62
Sticks.......................................................... 62
Swedish Rolls................................................... 62
Sweet French Rolls.............................................. 63
Luncheon Rolls.................................................. 63
French Rusks.................................................... 64
Rusks (Zwieback)................................................ 64
German Coffee Bread)............................................ 64
Coffee Cakes (Brioche).......................................... 65
Buns............................................................ 65
Hot Cross Buns.................................................. 66
Raised Muffins.................................................. 66
Grilled......................................................... 66
Raised Oatmeal Muffins.......................................... 67
Squash Biscuits................................................. 67
Dry toast....................................................... 67
Water Toast..................................................... 67
Milk Toast I.................................................... 68
Milk Toast II................................................... 68
Brown Bread Milk Toast.......................................... 68
Cream Toast..................................................... 68
Tomato Cream Toast.............................................. 68
German Toast.................................................... 69
Brewis.......................................................... 69
Bread for Garnishing............................................ 69
Uses for Stale Bread............................................ 69
BISCUITS, BREAKFAST CAKES, AND SHORTCAKES....................... 70
BATTERS, SPONGES, AND DOUGHS.................................... 70
Baking Powder Biscuit I......................................... 70
Baking Powder Biscuit II........................................ 71
Emergency Biscuit............................................... 71
Fruit Rolls (Pin Wheel Biscuits)................................ 71
One Egg Muffins I............................................... 71
One Egg Muffins II.............................................. 72
Twin Mountain Muffins........................................... 72
Queen of Muffins................................................ 72
Berry Muffins I................................................. 72
Berry Muffins II................................................ 73
Rice Muffins.................................................... 73
Oatmeal Muffins................................................. 73
Quaker Muffins.................................................. 73
Graham Muffins I................................................ 74
Graham Muffins II............................................... 74
Rye Muffins I................................................... 74
Rye Muffins II.................................................. 74
Corn Meal Gems.................................................. 74
Berkshire Muffins............................................... 75
Golden Corn Cake................................................ 75
PAGE
Corn Cake (Sweetened with Molasses)............................. 75
White Corn Cake................................................. 75
Susie's Spider Corn Cake........................................ 76
Pop-overs....................................................... 76
Graham Pop-overs................................................ 76
Breakfast Puffs................................................. 76
Fadges.......................................................... 77
Maryland Biscuit................................................ 77
GRIDDLE CAKES................................................... 77
Sour Milk Griddle Cakes......................................... 77
Sweet Milk Griddle Cakes........................................ 77
Entire Wheat Griddle Cakes...................................... 78
Corn Griddle Cakes.............................................. 78
Rice Griddle Cakes I............................................ 78
Rice Griddle Cakes II........................................... 78
Bread Griddle Cakes............................................. 79
Buckwheat Cakes................................................. 79
Waffles......................................................... 79
Rice Waffles.................................................... 80
Virginia Waffles................................................ 80
Raised Waffles.................................................. 80
Fried Drop Cakes................................................ 81
Rye Drops Cakes................................................. 81
Doughnuts I..................................................... 81
Doughnuts II.................................................... 82
Raised Doughnuts................................................ 82
Crullers........................................................ 83
Strawberry Short Cake I......................................... 83
Strawberry Short Cake II........................................ 83
Rich Strawberry Short Cake...................................... 84
Fruit Short Cake................................................ 84
CEREALS......................................................... 85
Table Showing Composition....................................... 85
Table for Cooking Cereals....................................... 87
Oatmeal Mush with Apples........................................ 87
Cereal with Fruit............................................... 87
Fried Mushes.................................................... 88
Fried Corn Meal Mush. or Fried Hominy........................... 88
Boiled Rice..................................................... 88
Steamed Rice.................................................... 88
Rice with Cheese................................................ 89
Rice à la Riston................................................ 89
Turkish Pilaf I................................................. 89
Turkish Pilaf II................................................ 90
Boiled Macaroni................................................. 90
Macaroni with White Sauce....................................... 90
Baked Macaroni.................................................. 90
Baked Macaroni with Cheese...................................... 90
Macaroni with Tomato Sauce...................................... 91
Macaroni à l'Italienne.......................................... 91
Macaroni à la Milanaise......................................... 91
Spaghetti....................................................... 91
EGGS............................................................ 92
Composition..................................................... 92
Boiled Eggs..................................................... 93
Dropped Eggs (Poached).......................................... 93
Eggs à la Finnoise.............................................. 94
Eggs à la Suisse................................................ 94
Baked or Shirred Eggs........................................... 94
Scrambled Eggs.................................................. 95
Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Sauce................................ 95
Scrambled Eggs with Anchovy Toast............................... 95
Eggs à la Buckingham............................................ 95
Buttered Eggs................................................... 95
Buttered Eggs with Tomatoes..................................... 96
Fried Eggs...................................................... 96
Eggs à la Goldenrod............................................. 96
Eggs au Gratin.................................................. 96
Eggs in Batter.................................................. 96
PAGE
Curried Eggs.................................................... 97
Scalloped Eggs.................................................. 97
Stuffed Eggs in a Nest.......................................... 97
Eggs Farci...................................................... 97
Omelets......................................................... 98
Plain Omelet.................................................... 98
To Fold and Turn an Omelet...................................... 98
Omelet with Meat or Vegetables.................................. 99
PAGE
Oyster Omelet................................................... 99
Orange Omelet................................................... 99
Jelly Omelet.................................................... 99
Bread Omelet.................................................... 99
French Omelet................................................... 100
Spanish Omelet.................................................. 100
Omelet Rich..................................................... 100
SOUPS........................................................... 101
Soup Making..................................................... 102
How to Clear Soup Stock......................................... 105
How to Bind Soups............................................... 105
SOUPS WITH MEAT STOCK........................................... 106
Brown Soup Stock................................................ 106
Bouillon........................................................ 106
Macaroni Soup................................................... 107
Julienne Soup................................................... 107
Tomato Soup with Stock.......................................... 107
Turkish Soup.................................................... 108
Crécy Soup...................................................... 108
Ox-tail Soup.................................................... 108
White Soup Stock I................... ........................... 109
White Soup Stock II............................................. 109
White Soup Stock III............................................ 109
White Soup...................................................... 109
Chicken Soup.................................................... 110
Turkey Soup..................................................... 110
Hygienic Soup................................................... 110
Farina Soup..................................................... 110
Spring Soup..................................................... 111
Duchess Soup.................................................... 111
Potage à la Reine............................................... 111
St. Germain Soup................................................ 112
Imperial Soup................................................... 112
Veal and Sage Soup.............................................. 112
Asparagus Soup.................................................. 113
Cream Of Celery Soup............................................ 113
Spinach Soup.................................................... 113
Cream of Lettuce Soup........................................... 114
Cream of Watercress Soup........................................ 114
Cream of Cauliflower Soup....................................... 114
String Bean Soup................................................ 115
Chestnut Purée.................................................. 115
Mulligatawny Soup............................................... 115
Mock Turtle Soup................................................ 116
Consommé........................................................ 116
Consommé à la Royal............................................. 117
Consommé au Parmesan............................................ 117
Consommé aux Pàtes.............................................. 117
Consommé Colbert................................................ 117
Consommé with Vegetables........................................ 117
Consommé Princess............................................... 117
SOUP WITH FISH STOCK............................................ 117
Clam Bouillon................................................... 117
Oyster Stew..................................................... 118
Scallop Stew.................................................... 118
Oyster Soup..................................................... 118
French Oyster Soup.............................................. 118
Oyster Gumbo.................................................... 119
Clam Soup with Poached Eggs..................................... 119
Clam and Oyster Soup............................................ 119
Cream of Clam Soup.............................................. 120
Lobster Bisque.................................................. 120
SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK............................................. 121
PAGE
Black Bean Soup................................................. 121
Baked Bean Soup................................................. 122
Cream of Lima Bean Soup......................................... 122
Celery Soup..................................................... 122
Corn Soup....................................................... 123
Halibut Soup.................................................... 123
Pea Soup........................................................ 123
Split Pea Soup.................................................. 124
Kornlet Soup.................................................... 124
Potato Soup..................................................... 124
Swiss Potato Soup............................................... 125
Salmon Soup..................................................... 125
Squash Soup..................................................... 125
Tomato Soup..................................................... 125
Cream of Tomato Soup (Mock Bisque).............................. 126
Vegetable Soup.................................................. 126
CHOWDERS........................................................ 127
Corn Chowder.................................................... 127
Fish Chowder.................................................... 127
Connecticut Chowder............................................. 128
Clam Chowder.................................................... 128
Lobster Chowder................................................. 129
SOUP GARNISHINGS AND FORCE-MEATS................................ 130
Crisp Crackers.................................................. 130
Croûtons (Duchess Crusts)....................................... 130
Imperial Sticks................................................. 130
Egg Balls....................................................... 130
Egg Custard..................................................... 130
Royal Custard................................................... 131
Noodles......................................................... 131
Fritter Beans................................................... 131
Pâte au Chou.................................................... 132
Parmesan Pâte au Chou........................................... 132
White Bait Garnish.............................................. 132
Fish Force-meat................................................. 132
Clam Force-meat................................................. 132
Salmon Force-meat............................................... 133
Oyster Force-meat............................................... 133
Chicken Force-meat I............................................ 133
Chicken Force-meat II........................................... 133
Quenelles....................................................... 134
FISH............................................................ 135
WHITE AND RED BLOODED FISH...................................... 136
SHELLFISH....................................................... 139
I. Bivalve Mollusks............................................. 139
II. Crustaceans................................................. 141
To Prepare Fish for Cooking..................................... 144
WAYS OF COOKING FISH............................................ 145
TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF THE VARIOUS FISH USED FOR FOOD..... 147
Boiled Haddock.................................................. 148
Boiled Salmon................................................... 148
Boiled Scrod.................................................... 148
Broiled Chicken Halibut......................................... 148
Broiled Swordfish............................................... 148
Broiled Shad Roe................................................ 148
PAGE
Baked Halibut with Stuffing..................................... 148
Fish Stuffing I................................................. 149
Fish Stuffing II................................................ 149
Baked Bluefish.................................................. 150
Bluefish à l'Italienne.......................................... 150
Baked Cod with Oyster Stuffing.................................. 150
Oyster Stuffing................................................. 150
Baked Haddock with Oyster Stuffing.............................. 150
Baked Halibut with Tomato Stuffing.............................. 151
Baked Halibut with Lobster Sauce................................ 151
Baked Mackerel.................................................. 151
Planked Shad or Whitefish....................................... 152
Baked Stuffed Smelts............................................ 152
Baked Shad Roe with Tomato Sauce................................ 152
Baked Fillets of Bass or Halibut................................ 152
Fillets of Halibut with Brown Sauce............................. 153
Halibut à la Poulette.................................... 153
Halibut à la Rarebit..................................... 154
Sandwiches of Chicken Halibut................................... 154
Fried Cod Steaks................................................ 154
Fried Smelts.................................................... 154
Fried Fillets of Halibut or Flounder............................ 155
Fried Eels...................................................... 155
Fried Stuffed Smelts............................................ 155
Fried Shad Roe.................................................. 156
Fried Soft Shell Crabs.......................................... 156
Frogs' Hind Legs................................................ 156
Terrapin........................................................ 156
Washington Terrapin............................................. 157
Terrapin à la Baltimore......................................... 157
Terrapin à la Maryland.......................................... 157
WAYS OF USING REMNANTS OF COOKED FISH........................... 158
Fish à la Crême................................................. 158
Turban of Fish.................................................. 158
Fish Hash....................................................... 158
Fish Croquettes................................................. 159
Scalloped Cod................................................... 159
Salmon Box...................................................... 159
WAYS OF COOKING SALT FISH....................................... 159
Creamed Salt Codfish............................................ 159
Fish Balls...................................................... 160
Salted Codfish.................................................. 160
Toasted Salt Fish............................................... 160
Baked Finnan Haddie............................................. 160
Broiled Finnan Haddie........................................... 161
WAYS OF COOKING SHELLFISH....................................... 161
Oysters on the Half Shell....................................... 161
Raw Oysters..................................................... 161
Panned Oysters.................................................. 161
Fancy Roast..................................................... 161
Oyster Fricassee................................................ 162
Creamed Oysters................................................. 162
Oysters in Brown Sauce.......................................... 162
Broiled Oysters................................................. 163
Oyster Toast.................................................... 163
Oysters and Macaroni............................................ 163
Scalloped Oysters............................................... 163
Sautéd Oysters.................................................. 164
Fried Oysters................................................... 164
Fried Oysters in Batter......................................... 164
Batter.......................................................... 164
Little Neck Clams............................................... 164
Steamed Clams................................................... 164
Roasted Clams................................................... 164
Fried Scallops.................................................. 165
Plain Lobster................................................... 165
Fried Lobster................................................... 165
Buttered Lobster................................................ 166
Scalloped Lobster............................................... 166
Devilled Lobster................................................ 167
Curried Lobster................................................. 167
Lobster Farci................................................... 167
Stuffed Lobster à la Béchamel................................... 167
Broiled Live Lobster............................................ 168
Lobster à la Américaine......................................... 168
BEEF............................................................ 169
DIVISION AND WAYS OF COOKING A SIDE OF BEEF..................... 172
The effect of Different Temperatures on the Cooking of Meat..... 173
TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF MEATS.............................. 175
PAGE
Broiled Beefsteak............................................... 176
Beefsteak with Maître d'Hôtel Butter.............................177
Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce........................... 177
Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce................ 177
Beefsteak with Oyster Blanke t................................... 177
Broiled Fillets of Beef......................................... 177
Cutlets of Tenderloin with Chestnut Purée....................... 177
Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Figaro................. 177
Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Trintion............... 178
Broiled Meat Cakes.............................................. 178
Hamburg Steaks.................................................. 178
Cannelon of Beef................................................ 178
Roast Beef...................................................... 178
Yorkshire Pudding............................................... 179
Larded Fillet of Fillet of Beef................................. 180
Braised Beef.................................................... 181
Beef à la Mode.................................................. 181
Beef Stew with Dumplings........................................ 182
Corned Beef..................................................... 183
Boiled Dinner................................................... 184
Boiled Tongue................................................... 184
Braised Tongue.................................................. 184
Broiled Liver................................................... 185
Liver and Bacon................................................. 185
Bacon........................................................... 185
Braised Liver................................................... 185
Broiled Tripe................................................... 186
Tripe in Batter................................................. 186
Lyonnaise Tripe................................................. 186
Tripe à la Creole............................................... 186
Tripe à la Provençale........................................... 187
Calf's Head à la Terrapin....................................... 187
Heart........................................................... 187
WAYS OF WARMING OVER BEEF....................................... 187
Roast Beef with Gravy........................................... 187
Cottage Pie..................................................... 188
Beefsteak Pie................................................... 188
Cecils with Tomato Sauce........................................ 188
Corned Beef Hash................................................ 188
Corned Beef Hash with Beets..................................... 189
Dried Beef with Cream........................................... 189
LAMB AND MUTTON................................................. 190
Broiled Lamb or Mutton Chops.................................... 192
Pan-broiled Chops............................................... 192
Breaded Mutton Chops............................................ 192
Chops à la Signora.............................................. 193
Chops en Papillote.............................................. 193
Mutton Cutlets à la Maintenon................................... 194
Boiled Leg of Mutton............................................ 194
Braised Leg of Mutton........................................... 194
Stuffing........................................................ 195
Roast Lamb...................................................... 195
Saddle of Mutton................................................ 195
Crown of Lamb................................................... 196
Mutton of Curry................................................. 196
Fricassee of Lamb with Brown Gravy.............................. 196
Irish Stew with Dumplings....................................... 197
Scotch Broth.................................................... 197
Lambs' Kidneys I................................................ 197
Lambs' Kidneys II............................................... 198
WAYS OF WARMING OVER MUTTON AND LAMB............................ 198
PAGE
Minced Lamb on Toast............................................ 198
Scalloped Lamb.................................................. 198
Blanquette of Lamb.............................................. 199
PAGE
Salmi of Lamb................................................... 199
Casserole of Rice and Meat...................................... 199
Breast of Lamb.................................................. 200
VEAL............................................................ 201
Veal Cutlets.................................................... 202
Fricassee of Veal............................................... 202
Loin of Veal à la Jardinière.................................... 203
Braised Shoulder of Veal........................................ 203
Roast Veal...................................................... 203
Fricandeau Veal................................................. 203
India Curry..................................................... 204
Veal Birds...................................................... 204
Veal Loaf I..................................................... 204
Veal Loaf II.................................................... 205
WAYS OF WARMING OVER VEAL....................................... 205
Minced Veal on Toast............................................ 205
Blanquette of Veal.............................................. 205
Ragout of Veal.................................................. 205
SWEETBREADS..................................................... 206
Broiled Sweetbreads............................................. 206
Creamed Sweetbreads............................................. 207
Creamed Sweetbreads and Chicken................................. 207
Sweetbread à la Poulette................................. 207
Larded Sweetbread............................................... 207
Sweetbread Cutlets with Asparagus Tips.......................... 207
Sweetbread with Tomato Sauce.................................... 207
Sweetbread and Bacon............................................ 207
PORK............................................................ 208
Pork Chops...................................................... 209
Pork Chops with Fried Apples.................................... 209
Roast pork...................................................... 209
Pork Tenderloins with Sweet Potatoes............................ 209
Breakfast Bacon................................................. 209
Fried Salt Pork with Codfish.................................... 210
Fried Ham and Eggs.............................................. 210
Boiled Ham...................................................... 210
Roast Ham with Champagne Sauce.................................. 211
Westphalian Ham................................................. 211
Broiled Pigs' Feet.............................................. 211
Fried Pigs' Feet................................................ 211
Sausages........................................................ 211
Boston Baked Beans.............................................. 211
POULTRY AND GAME................................................ 213
Broiled Chicken................................................. 219
Boiled Fowl..................................................... 219
Boiled Capon with Cauliflower Sauce............................. 219
PAGE
Chicken à la Providence......................................... 220
Roast Chicken................................................... 220
Stuffing I...................................................... 220
Stuffing II..................................................... 221
Gravy........................................................... 221
Braised Chicken................................................. 221
Chicken Fricassee............................................... 221
Fried Chicken................................................... 222
Maryland Chicken................................................ 222
Chicken à la Merango............................................ 222
Sauce........................................................... 223
Baked Chicken................................................... 223
Chicken Gumbo................................................... 223
Chicken Stew.................................................... 223
Chicken Pie..................................................... 224
Chicken Curry................................................... 224
Jellied Chicken................................................. 225
Chickens' Livers with Madeira Sauce............................. 225
Chickens' Livers with Bacon..................................... 225
Sautéd Chickens' Livers.................................. 225
Chickens Livers with Curry...................................... 226
Boiled Turkey................................................... 226
Roast Turkey.................................................... 226
Chestnut Stuffing............................................... 227
Gravy........................................................... 227
Chestnut Gravy.................................................. 227
To Carve a Turkey............................................... 227
Roast Goose with Potato Stuffing................................ 228
Potato Stuffing................................................. 228
To Truss a Goose................................................ 228
Roast Wild Duck................................................. 229
Braised Duck.................................................... 229
Broiled Quail................................................... 229
Roast Quail..................................................... 229
Larded Grouse................................................... 229
Broiled or Roasted Plover....................................... 230
Potted Pigeons.................................................. 230
Stuffing........................................................ 230
Broiled Venison Steak........................................... 230
Venison Cutlets................................................. 231
Roast Leg of Venison............................................ 231
Saddle of Venison............................................... 231
WAYS OF WARMING OVER POULTRY AND GAME........................... 231
Creamed Chicken................................................. 231
Creamed Chicken with Mushrooms.................................. 231
Chicken with Potato Border...................................... 231
Chicken in Baskets.............................................. 231
Chicken and Oysters à la Métropole.............................. 232
Luncheon Chicken................................................ 232
Blanquette of Chicken........................................... 232
Scalloped Chicken............................................... 233
Mock Terrapin................................................... 233
Chicken Chartreuse.............................................. 233
Chicken Soufflé................................................. 233
Chicken Hollandaise............................................. 234
Scalloped Turkey................................................ 234
Minced Turkey................................................... 234
Salmi of Duck................................................... 235
Spanish Sauce................................................... 235
FISH AND MEAT SAUCES............................................ 236
Thin White Sauce................................................ 237
Cream Sauce..................................................... 237
White Sauce I................................................... 237
White Sauce II.................................................. 237
Thick White Sauce for Cutlets and Croquettes.................... 237
Sauce Allemande................................................. 237
Velouté Sauce................................................... 238
Soubise Sauce................................................... 238
Drawn Butter Sauce.............................................. 238
Shrimp Sauce.................................................... 238
Caper Sauce..................................................... 238
Egg Sauce I..................................................... 238
Egg Sauce II.................................................... 239
Brown Sauce I................................................... 239
Brown Sauce II (Espagnole)...................................... 239
Brown Mushroom Sauce I.......................................... 239
Brown Mushroom Sauce II......................................... 239
Sauce Piquante.................................................. 240
Olive Sauce..................................................... 240
Orange Sauce.................................................... 240
Sauce à l'Italienne............................................. 240
Champagne Sauce................................................. 241
Tomato Sauce I (without Stock).................................. 241
Tomato Sauce II................................................. 241
Tomato Sauce III................................................ 241
Tomato and Mushroom Sauce....................................... 242
Tomato Cream Sauce.............................................. 242
Spinach Sauce................................................... 242
Béchamel Sauce.................................................. 243
Yellow Béchamel Sauce........................................... 243
Oyster Sauce.................................................... 243
Cucumber Sauce.................................................. 243
Celery Sauce.................................................... 243
Suprême Sauce................................................... 244
Anchovy Sauce................................................... 244
Maître D'Hôtel Butter........................................... 244
Tartar Sauce.................................................... 244
Lemon Butter.................................................... 244
Anchovy Butter.................................................. 244
Lobster Butter.................................................. 245
Hollandaise Sauce I............................................. 245
Hollandaise Sauce II............................................ 245
Lobster Sauce I................................................. 245
Lobster Sauce II................................................ 246
Sauce Béarnaise................................................. 246
Sauce Trianon................................................... 246
Sauce Figaro.................................................... 246
Horseradish Sauce I............................................. 246
Horseradish Sauce II............................................ 247
Bread Sauce..................................................... 247
Rice Sauce...................................................... 247
Cauliflower Sauce............................................... 247
Mint Sauce...................................................... 248
Currant Jelly Sauce............................................. 248
Port Wine Sauce................................................. 248
Sauce Tartare................................................... 248
Sauce Tyrolienne................................................ 249
VEGETABLES...................................................... 250
Table Showing Composition of.................................... 250
Care of......................................................... 251
Cooking Vegetables.............................................. 252
Mushrooms and Truffles.......................................... 252
Truffles........................................................ 253
Artichokes...................................................... 253
Boiled Artichokes............................................... 253
Fried Artichokes................................................ 254
Artichoke Bottoms............................................... 254
Stuffed Artichokes.............................................. 254
Asparagus....................................................... 254
Boiled Asparagus................................................ 254
Asparagus on Toast.............................................. 255
Asparagus in White Sauce........................................ 255
Asparagus à la Hollandaise...................................... 255
Asparagus in Crusts............................................. 255
Beans........................................................... 255
String Beans.................................................... 256
Shell Beans..................................................... 256
Cream of Lima Beans............................................. 256
Boiled Beets.................................................... 256
Sugared Beets................................................... 256
Pickled Beets................................................... 256
Brussels Sprouts................................................ 257
Brussels Sprouts in White Sauce................................. 257
Cabbage......................................................... 257
Boiled Cabbage.................................................. 257
Escalloped Cabbage.............................................. 257
German Cabbage.................................................. 258
Cole-Slaw....................................................... 258
Hot Slaw........................................................ 258
Carrots......................................................... 258
Carrots and Peas............... ................................. 258
Cauliflower..................................................... 259
Creamed Cauliflower............................................. 259
Cauliflower à la Hollandaise.................................... 259
Cauliflower au Gratin........................................... 259
Cauliflower à la Parmesan....................................... 259
Celery.......................................................... 259
Celery in White Sauce........................................... 260
Chiccory or Endive.............................................. 260
Corn............................................................ 260
Boiled Green Corn............................................... 260
Succotash....................................................... 261
Corn Oysters.................................................... 261
Corn à la Southern.............................................. 261
Chestnuts....................................................... 261
Chestnut Purée.................................................. 261
Cucumbers....................................................... 261
Sliced Cucumbers................................................ 261
Boiled Cucumbers................................................ 262
Fried Cucumbers................................................. 262
PAGE
Stuffed Cucumbers............................................... 262
Fried Egg Plant I............................................... 262
Fried Egg Plant II.............................................. 262
Stuffed Egg Plant............................................... 263
Greens.......................................................... 263
Boiled Beet Greens.............................................. 263
Dandelions...................................................... 263
Lettuce......................................................... 263
Onions.......................................................... 264
Boiled Onions................................................... 264
Onions in Cream................................................. 265
Scalloped Onions................................................ 265
Fried Onions.................................................... 265
Stuffed Onions.................................................. 265
Creamed Oyster Plant (Salsify).................................. 265
Salsify Fritters................................................ 266
Parsnips........................................................ 266
Parsnips with Drawn Butter Sauce................................ 266
Parsnip Fritters................................................ 266
Peas............................................................ 266
Boiled Peas..................................................... 267
Creamed Peas.................................................... 267
Stuffed Peppers I............................................... 267
Stuffed Peppers II.............................................. 268
Pumpkins........................................................ 268
Radishes........................................................ 268
Spinach......................................................... 268
Boiled Spinach.................................................. 268
Spinach à la Béchamel........................................... 269
PAGE
Squash ......................................................... 269
Boiled Summer Squash............................................ 269
Fried Summer Squash I........................................... 270
Fried Summer Squash II.......................................... 270
Steamed Winter Squash........................................... 270
Boiled Winter................................................... 270
Baked Winter Squash I........................................... 270
Baked Winter Squash II.......................................... 270
Tomatoes........................................................ 271
Sliced Tomatoes................................................. 271
Stewed Tomatoes................................................. 271
Scalloped Tomatoes.............................................. 271
Broiled Tomatoes................................................ 271
Tomatoes à la Crême............................................. 272
Devilled Tomatoes............................................... 272
Baked Tomatoes.................................................. 272
Stuffed Tomatoes................................................ 272
Turnips......................................................... 273
Mashed Turnips.................................................. 273
Creamed Turnips................................................. 273
Creamed Turnip Croquettes....................................... 273
Stewed Mushrooms................................................ 273
Stewed Mushrooms in Cream....................................... 274
Broiled Mushrooms............................................... 274
Baked Mushrooms in Cream........................................ 274
Sautéd Mushrooms................................................ 274
Mushrooms à la Sabine........................................... 275
Mushrooms à l'Algonquin......................................... 275
Stuffed Mushrooms............................................... 275
POTATOES........................................................ 276
Composition..................................................... 276
Sweet Potatoes.................................................. 277
Baked Potatoes.................................................. 277
Boiled Potatoes................................................. 277
Riced Potatoes.................................................. 278
Mashed Potatoes................................................. 278
Potato Omelet................................................... 278
Potato Border................................................... 278
Escalloped Potatoes............................................. 278
Potatoes à la Hollandaise....................................... 278
Potatoes Baked in a Half Shell.................................. 279
Duchess Potatoes................................................ 279
Maître d'Hôtel Potatoes......................................... 279
Maître d'Hôtel Butter........................................... 279
Franconia Potatoes.............................................. 279
Brabant Potatoes................................................ 280
Potato Balls.................................................... 280
Fried Potatoes.................................................. 280
Shadow Potatoes (Saratoga Chips)................................ 280
Shredded Potatoes............................................... 280
French Fried Potatoes........................................... 281
Potato Marbles.................................................. 281
Fried Potato balls.............................................. 281
Potato Fritters................................................. 281
Potato Curls.................................................... 281
Potato Croquettes............................................... 282
French Potato Croquettes........................................ 282
Potato Apples................................................... 283
Potatoes en Surprise............................................ 283
SWEET POTATOES.................................................. 283
PAGE
Baked Sweet Potatoes............................................ 283
Boiled Sweet Potatoes........................................... 283
Mashed Sweet Potatoes........................................... 283
PAGE
Glazed Sweet Potatoes........................................... 284
Sweet Potato Balls.............................................. 284
Sweet Potato Croquettes......................................... 284
WARMED OVER POTATOES............................................ 284
Potato Cakes.................................................... 284
Creamed Potatoes................................................ 284
Potatoes au Gratin.............................................. 285
Delmonico Potatoes.............................................. 285
Hashed Brown Potatoes........................................... 285
Sautéd Potatoes................................................. 285
Chartreuse Potatoes............................................. 285
Lyonnaise Potatoes I............................................ 285
Lyonnaise Potatoes II........................................... 286
Oak Hill Potatoes............................................... 286
SALAD DRESSINGS AND SALADS.......................... ............ 287
SALAD DRESSINGS................................................. 288
French Dressing................................................. 288
Cream Dressing I................................................ 288
Cream Dressing II............................................... 289
Boiled Dressing................................................. 289
German Dressing................................................. 289
Chicken Salad Dressing.......................................... 289
Oil Dressing I.................................................. 290
Oil Dressing II................................................. 290
Mayonnaise Dressing I........................................... 290
Mayonnaise Dressing II.......................................... 291
Cream Mayonnaise Dressing....................................... 291
Colored Mayonnaise Dressing..................................... 291
Potato Mayonnaise............................................... 291
SALADS.......................................................... 292
Dressed Lettuce................................................. 292
Lettuce and Cucumber............................................ 292
Lettuce and Radish.............................................. 292
Lettuce and Tomato.............................................. 292
Dressed Watercress.............................................. 292
Watercress and Cucumber......................................... 292
Cucumber and Tomato............................................. 293
Dressed Celery.................................................. 293
Celery and Cabbage.............................................. 293
String Bean..................................................... 293
Potato.......................................................... 294
Potato and Celery............................................... 294
Macédoine....................................................... 295
Stuffed Tomato.................................................. 295
Tomato Jelly.................................................... 296
Salad à la Russe................................................ 296
Spinach......................................................... 296
Egg Salad I..................................................... 296
Egg Salad II.................................................... 297
Lenten.......................................................... 297
Cheese.......................................................... 297
Nut............................................................. 297
Nut Cherry...................................................... 297
Banana.......................................................... 298
Salmon.......................................................... 298
Shrimp.......................................................... 298
Sardine......................................................... 298
Lobster I....................................................... 298
Lobster II...................................................... 299
Lobster III..................................................... 299
Chicken I....................................................... 300
Chicken II...................................................... 301
Chicken and Oyster.............................................. 301
Sweetbread and Cucumber......................................... 301
ENTRéES......................................................... 302
BATTERS AND FRITTERS............................................ 302
PAGE
Batter I.................................................. ...... 302
Batter II....................................................... 302
Batter III...................................................... 302
Batter IV....................................................... 302
Batter V........................................................ 303
Apple Fritters I................................................ 303
Apple Fritters II............................................... 303
Apple Fritters III.............................................. 303
Banana Fritters I............................................... 303
Banana Fritters II.............................................. 304
Orange Fritters................................................. 304
Fruit Fritters.................................................. 304
Cauliflower Fritters............................................ 304
Fried Celery.................................................... 305
Tomato Fritters................................................. 305
Cherry Fritters................................................. 305
Maraschino Sauce................................................ 306
Farina Cakes with Jelly......................................... 306
Gnocchi à la Romaine............................................ 306
Chocolate Fritters with Vanilla Sauce........................... 306
Queen Fritters.................................................. 307
Sponge Fritters................................................. 307
Croquettes...................................................... 308
Cheese Croquettes............................................... 308
Chestnut Croquettes............................................. 308
Rice Croquettes with Jelly...................................... 308
Sweet Rice Croquettes........................................... 309
Oyster and Macaroni Croquettes.................................. 309
Salmon Croquettes............................................... 310
Salmon Cutlets.................................................. 310
Lobster Croquettes.............................................. 310
Lobster Cutlets................................................. 310
Lamb Croquettes................................................. 311
Veal Croquettes................................................. 311
Chicken Croquettes I............................................ 312
Chicken Croquettes II........................................... 312
Chicken and Mushroom Croquettes................................. 312
Cutlets of Sweetbreads à la Victoria............................ 313
PAGE
Swedish Timbales................................................ 313
Strawberry Baskets.............................................. 315
Rice Timbales................................................... 315
Macaroni Timbales............................................... 315
Spaghetti Timbales.............................................. 315
Halibut Timbales................................................ 315
Lobster Timbales................................................ 316
Lobster Cream................................................... 316
Chicken Timbales................................................ 317
Suprême of Chicken.............................................. 317
Devilled Oysters................................................ 317
Devilled Crabs.................................................. 318
Fried Oyster Crabs.............................................. 318
Cutlets of Chicken.............................................. 319
Fillets of Game................................................. 319
Chickens' Livers en Brochette................................... 319
Cheese Fondue................................................... 320
Cheese Soufflés................................................. 320
Watrouskis...................................................... 320
Compote of Rice with Peaches.................................... 321
Compote of Rice with Pears...................................... 321
Croustades of Bread............................................. 321
Rice Croustades................................................. 321
Soufflé au Rhum................................................. 322
Omelet Soufflé.................................................. 322
Patties......................................................... 322
Bouchées........................................................ 322
Vol-au-vents.................................................... 322
Rissoles........................................................ 323
Cheese Soufflé with Pastry...................................... 323
Aspic Jelly..................................................... 323
Tomatoes in Aspic............................................... 324
Tongue in Aspic................................................. 324
Birds in Aspic.................................................. 325
Egg Custard for Decorating...................................... 325
Stuffing for Chicken in Aspic................................... 325
Chaud-froid Chicken............................................. 326
Rum Cakes....................................................... 326
Rum Sauce....................................................... 326
Flûtes.......................................................... 327
HOT PUDDINGS.................................................... 328
PAGE
Rice pudding.................................................... 328
Poor Man's Pudding.............................................. 328
Indian Pudding.................................................. 328
Cerealine Pudding (Mock Indian)................................. 329
Apple Tapioca................................................... 329
Tapioca Custard Pudding......................................... 329
Peach Tapioca................................................... 329
Scalloped Apples..................... ........................... 330
Bread Pudding................................................... 330
Cracker Custard Pudding......................................... 330
Bread and Butter Pudding........................................ 331
Chocolate Bread Pudding......................................... 331
Cottage Pudding................................................. 331
Strawberry Cottage Pudding...................................... 332
Orange Puffs.................................................... 332
Custard Soufflé................................................. 332
Lemon Soufflé................................................... 333
PAGE
Fruit Soufflé................................................... 333
Spanish Soufflé................................................. 333
Chestnut Soufflé................................................ 333
Steamed Apple Pudding........................................... 334
Steamed Blueberry Pudding....................................... 334
Steamed Cranberry Pudding....................................... 334
Ginger Pudding.................................................. 335
Harvard Pudding................................................. 335
Swiss Pudding................................................... 335
Snow Balls...................................................... 336
Graham Pudding.................................................. 336
St. James Pudding............................................... 336
Suet Pudding.................................................... 337
Thanksgiving Pudding............................................ 337
Hunters' Pudding................................................ 337
French Fruit Pudding............................................ 338
English Plum Pudding............................................ 338
PUDDING SAUCES.................................................. 339
Lemon Sauce I................................................... 339
Lemon Sauce II.................................................. 339
Vanilla Sauce................................................... 339
Molasses Sauce.................................................. 339
Cream Sauce I................................................... 340
Cream Sauce II.................................................. 340
Yellow Sauce I.................................................. 340
Yellow Sauce II............................................ ..... 340
Orange Sauce.................................................... 340
Strawberry Sauce................................................ 341
Creamy Sauce I.................................................. 341
Creamy Sauce II................................................. 341
Foamy Sauce I................................................... 341
Foamy Sauce II.................................................. 341
Chocolate Sauce................................................. 342
Sabyon Sauce.................................................... 342
Hard Sauce...................................................... 342
Sterling Sauce.................................................. 342
Wine Sauce...................................................... 343
Brandy Sauce.................................................... 343
COLD DESSERTS.................................................. 344
Irish Moss Blanc-Mange.......................................... 344
Chocolate Blanc-Mange........................................... 344
Rebecca Pudding................................................. 344
Moulded Snow.................................................... 345
Chocolate Cream................................................. 345
Pineapple Pudding............................................... 345
Boiled Custard.................................................. 345
Tipsy Pudding................................................... 346
Peach Custard................................................... 346
Banana Custard.................................................. 346
Orange Custard.................................................. 346
Apple Meringue.................................................. 346
Apple Snow...................................................... 346
Prune Whip...................................................... 347
PAGE
Raspberry Whip.................................................. 347
Baked Custard................................................... 347
Caramel Custard................................................. 348
Caramel Sauce................................................... 348
Tapioca Pudding................................................. 348
Norwegian Prune Pudding......................................... 349
Apples in Bloom................................................. 349
Neapolitan Baskets.............................................. 349
Wine Cream...................................................... 349
Orange Salad.................................................... 350
Fruit Salad I................................................... 350
Fruit Salad II.................................................. 350
Fruit Salad with Wine Dressing.................................. 350
Wine Dressing................................................... 350
Cream Whips..................................................... 351
Lemon Jelly..................................................... 351
Orange Jelly.................................................... 351
Coffee Jelly.................................................... 351
Cider Jelly..................................................... 351
Wine Jelly I.................................................... 352
Wine Jelly II................................................... 352
Russian Jelly................................................... 352
Jelly in Glasses................................................ 352
Jellied Prunes.................................................. 353
Jellied Walnuts................................................. 353
Apricot and Wine Jelly.......................................... 353
Snow Pudding I.................................................. 354
PAGE
Amber Pudding................................................... 354
Snow Pudding II................................................. 354
Pudding à la Macédoine.......................................... 354
Fruit Chartreuse................................................ 355
Spanish Cream................................................... 355
Columbian pudding............................................... 356
Macaroon Cream.................................................. 356
Cold Cabinet Pudding............................................ 356
Mont Blanc...................................................... 357
Crême aux Fruits................................................ 357
To-Whip Cream................................................... 357
Charlotte Russe................................................. 359
Orange Trifle................................................... 360
Banana Cantaloupe............................................... 360
Chocolate Charlotte............................................. 361
Caramel Charlotte Russe......................................... 361
Burnt Almond Charlotte.......................................... 361
Ginger Cream.................................................... 362
Orange Charlotte................................................ 362
Strawberry Sponge............................................... 362
Orange Baskets.................................................. 362
Orange Jelly in Ambush.......................................... 363
Bavarian Cream (Quick).......................................... 363
Strawberry Bavarian Cream....................................... 363
Pineapple Bavarian Cream........................................ 363
Royal Diplomatic Pudding........................................ 364
Fruit Cream..................................................... 346
ICES, ICE CREAMS, AND OTHER FROZEN DESSERTS..................... 365
How to Freeze Desserts.......................................... 366
To Line a Mould................................................. 367
To Mould Frozen Mixtures........................................ 367
Lemon Ice....................................................... 367
Orange Ice...................................................... 367
Pomegranate Ice................................................. 368
Raspberry Ice........... ........................................ 368
Strawberry Ice.................................................. 368
Currant Ice..................................................... 368
Raspberry and Currant Ice....................................... 368
Crême de Menthe Ice............................................. 368
Canton Sherbet.................................................. 369
Milk Sherbet.................................................... 369
Pineapple Frappé................................................ 369
Sorbet........................................................... 369
Café Frappé.............................................. 370
Clam Frappé...................................................... 370
Frozen Apricots................................................. 370
Pineapple Cream................................................. 370
Cardinal Punch.................................................. 371
Punch Hollandaise............................................... 371
Victoria Punch.................................................. 371
London Sherbe................................................... 371
Roman Punch..................................................... 371
Vanilla Ice Cream I (Philadelphia).............................. 372
Vanilla Ice Cream II............................................ 372
Vanilla Ice Cream Croquettes.................................... 372
Chocolate Ice Cream I........................................... 372
Chocolate Ice Cream II.......................................... 373
Strawberry Ice Cream............................................ 373
Pineapple Ice Cream............................................. 373
Coffee Ice Cream................................................ 373
Caramel Ice Cream............................................... 374
PAGE
Burnt Almond Ice Cream.......................................... 374
Brown Bread Ice Cream........................................... 374
Bisque Ice Cream................................................ 374
Macaroon Ice Cream.............................................. 374
Banana Ice Cream................................................ 375
Ginger Ice Cream................................................ 375
Pistachio Ice Cream............................................. 375
Pistachio Bisque................................................ 375
Neapolitan or Harlequin Ice Cream............................... 375
Baked Alaska.................................................... 375
Pudding Glacé................................................... 376
Frozen Pudding I................................................ 376
Frozen Pudding II............................................... 376
Delmonico Ice Cream with Angel Food............................. 377
Angel Food...................................................... 377
Sultana Roll with Claret Sauce.................................. 377
Claret Sauce.................................................... 378
Café Parfait.................................................... 378
Italian Meringue................................................ 378
Bombe Glacée.................................................... 378
Nesselrode Pudding.............................................. 379
Strawberry Mousse............................................... 379
Coffee Mousse................................................... 379
Mousse Marron................................................... 380
Cardinal Mousse, with Iced Madeira Sauce........................ 380
Iced Madeira Sauce.............................................. 380
Demi-glacé aux Fraises................................... 380
PASTRY................................................... ....... 382
Puff Paste...................................................... 383
To Bake Puff Paste.............................................. 384
Patty Shells.................................................... 385
Vol-au-vents.................................................... 385
Plain Paste .................................................... 386
Quick Paste..................................................... 386
Paste with Lard................................................. 386
PIES............................................................ 388
Apple Pie I..................................................... 389
Apple Pie II.................................................... 389
Blackberry Pie.................................................. 390
Blueberry Pie................................................... 390
Cranberry Pie................................................... 390
Currant Pie..................................................... 390
Cream Pie....................................................... 391
Custard Pie..................................................... 391
Date Pie........................................................ 391
Lemon Pie I..................................................... 391
Lemon Pie II.................................................... 391
Lemon Pie III................................................... 392
Lemon Pie IV.................................................... 392
Mince Pies...................................................... 393
Mince Pie Meat.................................................. 393
English Mince Meat.............................................. 393
Mince Meat (without Liquor)..................................... 394
Mock Mince Pie.................................................. 394
Peach Pie....................................................... 394
Prune Pie....................................................... 394
Rhubarb Pie..................................................... 395
Squash Pie...................................................... 395
Pumpkin Pie..................................................... 395
PASTRY DESSERTS................................................. 396
Banbury Tarts................................................... 396
Cheese Cakes.................................................... 396
Cheese Straws................................................... 396
Condés.......................................................... 397
PAGE
Cream Horns..................................................... 397
Florentine Meringue............................................. 397
Napoleons....................................................... 398
Orange Sticks................................................... 398
Lemon Sticks.................................................... 398
PAGE
Palm Leaves..................................................... 398
Raspberry Puffs................................................. 398
Tarts........................................................... 399
Polish Tartlets................................................. 399
MERINGUES....................................................... 399
FOR PIES, PUDDINGS AND DESSERTS................................. 399
Meringue I...................................................... 400
Meringue II..................................................... 400
Meringue III.................................................... 400
Meringues Glacées, or Kisses.................................... 400
Nut Meringues................................................... 401
Meringues (Mushrooms)........................................... 401
Meringues Panachées............................................. 401
GINGERBREADS, COOKIES, AND WAFERS............................... 402
Hot Water Gingerbread........................................... 402
Sour Milk Gingerbread........................................... 402
Soft Molasses Gingerbread....................................... 402
Cambridge Gingerbread........................................... 403
Soft Sugar Gingerbread.......................................... 403
Gossamer Gingerbread............................................ 403
Fairy Gingerbread............................................... 404
Hard Sugar Gingerbread.......................................... 404
Molasses Drop Cakes............................................. 404
Ginger Snaps.................................................... 405
Molasses Cookies................................................ 405
Soft Molasses Cookies........................................... 405
Spice Cookies................................................... 406
Scotch Wafers................................................... 406
Oatmeal Cookies................................................. 406
Vanilla Wafers.................................................. 407
Cream Cookies................................................... 407
Imperial Cookies................................................ 407
Hermits......................................................... 407
Boston Cookies.................................................. 408
Cocoanut Cream Cookies.......................................... 408
Peanut Cookies.................................................. 408
Seed Cakes...................................................... 409
Chocolate Cookies............................................... 409
Sand Tarts...................................................... 409
Rolled Wafers................................................... 410
Almond Wafers................................................... 411
CAKE............................................................ 412
Hot Water Sponge Cake........................................... 416
Cheap Sponge Cake............................................... 416
Cream Sponge Cake............................................... 417
Sponge Cake..................................................... 4 17
Sunshine Cake................................................... 418
Angel Cake...................................................... 418
Lady Fingers.................................................... 418
Sponge Drop..................................................... 419
Jelly Roll...................................................... 419
Aunt Caddie's Cake.............................................. 419
Election Cake................................................... 420
One Egg Cake.................................................... 420
Chocolate Cake.................................................. 420
Chocolate Nougat Cake........................................... 421
Cream Pie I..................................................... 421
Cream Pie II.................................................... 421
Cocoanut Pie.................................................... 421
Washington Pie.................................................. 421
Collocate Pie................................................... 422
Orange Cake..................................................... 422
Quick Cake...................................................... 422
Boston Favorite Cake............................................ 422
Cream Cake...................................................... 423
Currant Cake.................................................... 423
PAGE
Velvet Cake..................................................... 423
Walnut Cake..................................................... 424
Spanish Cake.................................................... 424
Cup Cake........................................................ 424
Brownies........................................................ 424
Ribbon Cake..................................................... 425
Coffee Cake..................................................... 425
Rich Coffee..................................................... 425
Dark Fruit Cake................................................. 426
Nut Cakes....................................................... 426
Snow Cake....................................................... 426
Lily Cake....................................................... 426
Corn-starch Cake................................................ 427
Prune Almond Cake............................................... 427
Marshmallow Cake................................................ 427
Fig éclair...................................................... 427
Banana Cake..................................................... 428
PAGE
Bride's Cake.................................................... 428
Light Fruit Cake................................................ 428
White Nut Cake.................................................. 428
Golden Cake..................................................... 428
Mocha Cake...................................................... 429
Cream Cakes..................................................... 429
French Cream Cakes.............................................. 430
French Strawberry Cream Cakes................................... 430
éclairs......................................................... 430
Lemon Queens.................................................... 430
Queen Cake...................................................... 431
Pound Cake...................................................... 431
English Fruit Cake.............................................. 431
Imperial Cake................................................... 432
Wedding Cake.................................................... 432
CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS..................................... 433
Cream Filling................................................... 433
Chocolate Cream Filling......................................... 433
Coffee Cream Filling............................................ 433
French Cream Filling............................................ 433
Strawberry Filling.............................................. 434
Lemon Filling................................................... 434
Orange Filling.................................................. 434
Chocolate Filling............................................... 434
Nut or Fruit Filling............................................ 434
Cocoanut Filling................................................ 435
Lemon Cocoanut Filling.......................................... 435
Fig Filling..................................................... 435
Marshmallow Paste............................................... 435
Pistachio Paste................................................. 435
Prune Almond Filling............................................ 436
Confectioners' Frosting......................................... 436
Orange Frosting................................................. 436
Gelatine Frosting............................................... 436
Plain Frosting.................................................. 436
Chocolate Frosting.............................................. 437
White Mountain Frosting......................................... 437
Boiled Frosting................................................. 437
Boiled Chocolate Frosting....................................... 438
Brown Frosting.................................................. 438
Maple Sugar Frosting............................................ 438
Cream Maple Sugar Frosting...................................... 438
Milk Frosting................................................... 438
Caramel Frosting................................................ 439
Opera Caramel Frosting.......................................... 439
Fondant Icing................................................... 439
Ornamental Frosting I........................................... 439
Ornamental Frosting II.......................................... 440
FANCY CAKES AND CONFECTIONS..................................... 442
Macaroons....................................................... 442
Almond Macaroons................................................ 443
Crescents....................................................... 443
Cinnamon Bars................................................... 443
Horseshoes...................................................... 444
Cocoanut Cakes I................................................ 444
Cocoanut Cakes II............................................... 444
Stuffed Dates I................................................. 444
Stuffed Dates II................................................ 444
Salted Almonds I................................................ 445
PAGE
Salted Almonds II............................................... 445
Salted Peanuts.................................................. 445
Salted Pecans................................................... 445
Parisian Sweets................................................. 445
Molasses Candy.................................................. 445
Velvet Molasses Candy........................................... 446
Buttercups...................................................... 447
Vinegar Candy................................................... 447
Ice Cream Candy................................................. 447
Butter Scotch................................................... 448
Butter Taffy.................................................... 448
Horehound Candy................................................. 448
Chocolate Caramels.............................................. 449
PAGE
Nut Chocolate Caramels.......................................... 449
Peanut Nougat................................................... 449
Nut Bar......................................................... 449
French Nougat................................................... 450
Nougatine Drops................................................. 450
Wintergreen Wafers.............................................. 450
Cocoanut Cream Candy............................................ 451
Chocolate Cream Candy........................................... 451
Maple Sugar Candy............................................... 451
Sultana Caramels................................................ 452
Creamed Walnuts................................................. 452
Peppermints..................................................... 453
BOILED SUG AR FOR CONFECTIONS.................................... 453
White Fondant................................................... 453
Coffee Fondant.................................................. 454
Maple Fondant................................................... 454
Bonbons......................................................... 454
Cream Mints..................................................... 455
Cream Nut Bars.................................................. 455
Dipped Walnuts.................................................. 455
Tutti-Frutti Candy.............................................. 456
Glacé Nuts...................................................... 456
Glacé Fruits.................................................... 456
Spun Sugar...................................................... 457
SANDWICHES AND CANAPéS.......................................... 458
Rolled Bread.................................................... 458
Bread and Butter Folds.......................................... 458
Lettuce Sandwich................................................ 459
Egg Sandwiches.................................................. 459
Sardine Sandwiches.............................................. 459
Sliced Ham Sandwiches........................................... 459
Chopped Ham Sandwiches.......................................... 459
Anchovy Sandwiches.............................................. 459
Chicken Sandwiches.............................................. 460
Lobster Sandwiches.............................................. 460
Oyster Sandwiches............................................... 460
Nut and Cheese Sandwiches....................................... 460
Ginger Sandwiches............................................... 460
Fruit Sandwiches................................................ 460
Brown Bread Sandwiches.......................................... 460
Russian Sandwiches.............................................. 461
Jelly Sandwiches................................................ 461
Cheese Wafers................................................... 461
Canapés......................................................... 461
Cheese Canapés I................................................ 461
Cheese Canapés II............................................... 462
Sardine Canapés................................................. 462
Anchovy Canapés................................................. 462
Canapés Lorenzo................................................. 462
RECIPES FOR THE CHAFING-DISH.................................... 463
Scrambled Eggs with Sweetbreads................................. 464
Scrambled Eggs with Calf's Brains............................... 464
Cheese Omelet................................................... 465
Eggs au Beurre Noir............................................. 465
Eggs à la Caracas............................................... 465
Union Grill..................................................... 466
Oysters à la D'Uxelles.......................................... 466
Oysters à la Thorndike.......................................... 466
PAGE
Lobster à la Delmonico.......................................... 466
Lobster à la Newburg............................................ 467
Clams à la Newburg.............................................. 467
Shrimps à la Newburg............................................ 467
Fish à la Provençale............................................ 468
Grilled Sardines................................................ 468
Sardines with Anchovy Sauce..................................... 468
Welsh Rarebit I................................................. 468
Welsh Rarebit II................................................ 469
Oyster Rarebit.................................................. 469
English Monkey.................................................. 469
Breaded Tongue with Tomato Sauce................................ 469
PAGE
Scotch Woodcock................................................. 470
Shredded Ham with Currant Jelly Sauce........................... 470
Venison Cutlets with Apples..................................... 470
Mutton with Currant Jelly Sauce................................. 470
Minced Mutton................................................... 471
Devilled Bones.................................................. 471
Devilled Almonds................................................ 471
Devilled Chestnuts.............................................. 472
Fruit Canapés................................................... 472
Peach Canapés................................................... 472
Fig Cups........................................................ 472
COOKING, PRESERVING, AND CANNING FRUITS......................... 473
Baked Apples.................................................... 473
Baked Sweet Apples.............................................. 474
Apple Sauce..................................................... 474
Spiced Apples................................................... 474
Apple Ginger.................................................... 474
Apple Porcupine................................................. 474
Baked Bananas................................................... 475
Sautéd Bananas.................................................. 475
Baked Peaches................................................... 475
Baked Pears..................................................... 475
Baked Quinces................................................... 476
Cranberry Sauce................................................. 476
Cranberry Sauce................................................. 476
Stewed Prunes................................................... 476
Rhubarb Sauce................................................... 476
JELLIES......................................................... 477
Apple Jelly..................................................... 477
Quince Jelly.................................................... 478
Crab Apple Jelly................................................ 478
Currant Jelly................................................... 478
Currant and Raspberry Jelly..................................... 478
Blackberry Jelly................................................ 479
Raspberry Jelly................................................. 479
Barberry Jelly.................................................. 479
Grape Jelly..................................................... 479
Green Grape Jelly............................................... 479
Venison Jelly................................................... 479
Damson Jelly.................................................... 480
JAMS............................................................ 480
Raspberry Jam................................................... 480
Blackberry Jam.................................................. 480
MARMALADES...................................................... 480
Grape Marmalade................................................. 480
Quince Marmalade................................................ 480
Orange Marmalade................................................ 481
Orange and Rhubarb Marmalade.................................... 481
CANNING AND PRESERVING.......................................... 481
Directions for Canning.......................................... 482
To Sterilize Jars............................................... 482
Canned Porter Apples............................................ 482
Canned Peaches.................................................. 483
Canned Pears.................................................... 483
Canned Pineapples............................................... 486
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Canned Quinces.................................................. 483
Canned Cherries................................................. 483
Canned Huckleberries............................................ 484
Canned Rhubarb.................................................. 484
Canned Tomatoes................................................. 484
Damson Preserve................................................. 484
Strawberry Preserves............................................ 484
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Pear Chips...................................................... 485
Raspberry and Currant Preserves................................. 485
Brandied Peaches................................................ 485
Tutti Frutti.................................................... 485
Preserved Melon Rind............................................ 486
Tomato Preserve................................................. 486
PICKLING........................................................ 486
Spiced Currants................................................. 486
Sweet Pickled Pears............................................. 486
Sweet Pickled Peaches........................................... 487
Chili Sauce..................................................... 487
Ripe Tomato Pickle.............................................. 487
Ripe Cucumber Pickle............................................ 487
Unripe Cucumber Pickles (Gherkins).............................. 488
Chopped Pickles................................................. 488
Spanish Pickles................................................. 489
Chow-Chow....................................................... 489
Pickled Onions.................................................. 489
RECIPES ESPECIALLY PREPARED FOR THE SICK........................ 490
Barley Water.................................................... 493
Rice Water...................................................... 493
Oatmeal Water................................................... 493
Toast Water................... .................................. 494
Apple Water..................................................... 494
Tamarind Water.................................................. 494
Currant Water................................................... 494
Grape Juice..................................................... 494
Lemonade........................................................ 495
Irish Moss Lemonade............................................. 495
Flaxseed Lemonade............................................... 495
Orangeade....................................................... 495
Sterilized Milk................................................. 495
Albumenized Milk................................................ 496
Kournles........................................................ 496
Egg-nog I....................................................... 496
Egg-nog II...................................................... 496
Egg-nog III or Hot Water Egg-nog................................ 497
Wine Whey....................................................... 497
Milk Punch...................................................... 497
Entire Wheat Coffee............................................. 497
Philips' Cocoa.................................................. 497
Cocoa Cordial................................................... 498
Broiled Beef Essence............................................ 498
Broiled Beef Tea................................................ 498
Bottled Beef Essence............................................ 498
Bottled Beef Tea................................................ 498
Frozen Beef Tea................................................. 499
Flour Gruel..................................................... 499
Arrowroot Gruel................................................. 499
Farina Gruel.................................................... 499
Indian Gruel.................................................... 500
Oatmeal Gruel I................................................. 500
Oatmeal Gruel II................................................ 500
Barley Gruel.................................................... 500
Cracker Gruel................................................... 501
Imperial Granum................................................. 501
Clam Water...................................................... 501
Mutton Broth.................................................... 501
Chicken Broth................................................... 502
Indian Meal Mush................................................ 502
Rye Meal Mush................................................... 502
Oatmeal Mush.................................................... 502
Hominy Mush..................................................... 502
Quaker Oats Mush................................................ 503
Beef Balls...................................................... 503
Raw Beef Sandwiches............................................. 503
Egg Sandwiches.................................................. 503
To Broil Birds in Buttered Cases................................ 503
Rennet Custard (Junket)......................................... 504
PAGE
HELPFUL HINTS TO THE YOUNG HOUSEKEEPER.......................... 505
SUITABLE COMBINATIONS FOR SERVING............................... 512
BREAKFAST MENUS................................................. 512
LUNCHEON MENUS.................................................. 514
DINNER MENUS.................................................... 517
MENU FOR THANKSGIVING DINNER.................................... 520
MENU FOR CHRISTMAS DINNER....................................... 520
A FULL COURSE DINNER............................................ 520
MENUS FOR FULL COURSE DINNERS................................... 523
NECESSARY UTENSILS AND STORES FOR FURNISHING SCHOOL
KITCHEN FOR A CLASS OF TWENTY-FOUR......................... 525
GLOSSARY........................................................ 528
COURSE OF INSTRUCTION AS GIVEN AT THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL..... 531
PRACTICE LESSONS................................................ 531
INDEX........................................................... 537
> CHAPTER I.
> CHAPTER II.
> CHAPTER III.
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> CHAPTER IV.
> CHAPTER V.
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> CHAPTER VI.
> CHAPTER VII.
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> CHAPTER VIII.
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> CHAPTER IX.
> CHAPTER X.
> CHAPTER XI.
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> CHAPTER XII.
> CHAPTER XIII.
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> CHAPTER XIV.
> CHAPTER XV.
> CHAPTER XVI.
> CHAPTER XVII.
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> CHAPTER XVIII.
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> CHAPTER XIX.
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> CHAPTER XX.
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> CHAPTER XXI.
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> CHAPTER XXII.
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> CHAPTER XXIII.
> CHAPTER XXIV.
> CHAPTER XXV.
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> CHAPTER XXVI.
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> CHAPTER XXVII.
> CHAPTER XXVIII.
> CHAPTER XXIX.
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> CHAPTER XXX.
> CHAPTER XXXI.
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> CHAPTER XXXII.
> CHAPTER XXXIII.
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> CHAPTER XXXIV.
> CHAPTER XXXV.
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> CHAPTER XXXVI.
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> CHAPTER XXXVII.
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> CHAPTER XXXVIII.
> CHAPTER XXXIX.
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> THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL COOK BOOK.
> CHAPTER I.
> FOOD.
FOOD is anything which nourishes the body. Thirteen elements enter into the composition of the body: oxygen, 62 1/2%; carbon, 21 1/2%; hydrogen, 10%; nitrogen, 3%; calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sulphur, chlorine, sodium, magnesium, iron, and fluorine the remaining 3%. Others are found occasionally, but, as their uses are unknown, will not be considered.
Food is necessary for growth, repair, and energy; therefore the elements composing the body must be found in the food. The thirteen elements named are formed into chemical compounds by the vegetable and animal kingdoms to support the highest order of being, man. All food must undergo chemical change after being taken into the body, before it can be utilized by the body; this is the office of the digestive system.
Food is classified as follows:--
| I. ORGANIC | { | 1. Proteid (nitrogenous or albuminous). |
| { | 2. Carbohydrates (sugar and starch). | |
| { | 3. Fats and oils. | |
| II. INORGANIC | { | 1. Mineral Matter. |
| { | 2. Water. |
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The chief office of proteids is to build and repair tissues. They can furnish energy, but at greater cost than carbohydrates, fats, and oils. They contain nitrogen, carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and sulphur or phosphorus, and include all forms of animal foods (excepting fats and glycogen) and some vegetable foods. Examples: milk, cheese, eggs, meat, fish, cereals, peas, beans, and lentils. The principal constituent of proteid food is albumen. Albumen as found in food takes different names, but has the same chemical composition; as, albumen in eggs, fibrin in meat, casein in milk and cheese, vegetable casein or legumen in peas, beans, and lentils; and gluten in wheat. To this same class belongs gelatine.
The chief office of the carbohydrates is to furnish energy and maintain heat. They contain carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and include foods containing starch and sugar. Examples: vegetables, fruits, cereals, sugars, and gums.
The chief office of fats and oils is to store energy and heat to be used as needed, and constitute the adipose tissues of the body. Examples: butter, cream, fat of meat, fish, cereals, nuts, and the berry of the olive-tree.
The chief office of mineral matter is to furnish the necessary salts which are found in all animal and vegetable foods. Examples: sodium chloride (common salt); carbonates, sulphates and phosphates of sodium, potassium, and magnesium; besides calcium phosphates and iron.
Water constitutes about two-thirds the weight of the body, and is in all tissues and fluids; therefore its abundant use is necessary. One of the greatest errors in diet is neglect to take enough water; while it is found in all animal and vegetable food, the amount is insufficient.
> CORRECT PROPORTIONS OF FOOD.
Age, sex, occupation, climate, and season must determine the diet of a person in normal condition
Liquid food (milk or milk in preparation with the various
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prepared foods on the market) should constitute the diet of a child for the first eighteen months. After the teeth appear, by which time ferments have been developed for the digestion of starchy foods, entire wheat bread, baked potatoes, cereals, meat broths, and occasionally boiled eggs may be given. If mothers would use Dr. Johnson's Educators in place of the various sweet crackers, children would be as well pleased and better nourished; with a glass of milk they form a supper suited to the needs of little ones, and experience has shown children seldom tire of them. The diet should be gradually increased by the addition of cooked fruits, vegetables, and simple desserts; the third or fourth year fish and meat may be introduced, if given sparingly. Always avoid salted meats, coarse vegetables (beets, carrots, and turnips), cheese, fried food, pastry, rich desserts, confections, condiments, tea, coffee, and iced water. For school children the diet should be varied and abundant, constantly bearing in mind that this is a period of great mental and physical growth. Where children have broken down, supposedly from over-work, the cause has often been traced to impoverished diet. It must not be forgotten that digestive processes go on so rapidly that the stomach is soon emptied. Thanks to the institutor of the school luncheon-counter!
The daily average ration of an adult requires
About one-third of the water is taken in our food, the remainder as a beverage. To keep in health and do the best mental and physical work, authorities agree that a mixed diet is suited for temperate climates, although sound arguments appear from the vegetarian. Women, even though they do the same amount of work as men, as a rule require less food. Brain workers should take their proteid in a form easily digested. In consideration of this
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fact, fish and eggs form desirable substitutes for meat. The working man needs quantity as well as quality, that the stomach may have something to act upon. Corned beef, cabbage, brown-bread, and pastry will not overtax his digestion. In old age the digestive organs lessen in activity, and diet should be almost as simple as that of a child, increasing the amount of carbohydrates and decreasing the amount of proteids and fat.
> WATER (H2O).
Water is a transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid. It is derived from five sources,--rains, rivers, surface-water or shallow wells, deep wells, and springs. Water is never found pure in nature; it is nearly pure when gathered in an open field, after a heavy rainfall, or from springs. For town and city supply, surface-water is furnished by some adjacent pond or lake. Samples of such water are carefully and frequently analyzed, to make sure that it is not polluted with disease germs.
The hardness of water depends upon the amount of salts of lime and magnesia which it contains. Soft water is free from objectionable salts, and is preferable for household purposes. Hard water may be softened by boiling, or by the addition of a small amount of bicarbonate of soda (NaHCO3).
Water freezes at a temperature of 32° F., boils at 212° F.; when bubbles appear on the surface and burst, the boiling-point is reached. In high altitudes water boils at a lower temperature. From 32° to 65° F. water is termed cold; from 65° to 92° F. tepid; 92° to 100° F. warm; over that temperature, hot. Boiled water is freed from all organic impurities, and salts of lime are precipitated; it does not ferment, and is a valuable antiseptic. Hot water is more stimulating than cold, and is of use taken on an empty stomach, while at a temperature of from 60° to 95° F. it is used as an emetic; 90° F. being the most favorable temperature.
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Distilled water is chemically pure and is always used for medicinal purposes. It is flat and insipid to the taste, having been deprived of its atmospheric gases.
There are many charged, carbonized, and mineral spring waters bottled and put on the market; many of these are used as agreeable table beverages. Examples: Soda water, Apollinaris, Poland, Seltzer, and Vichy. Some contain minerals of medicinal value. Examples: Lithia, saline, and sulphur waters.
> SALTS.
Of all salts found in the body, the most abundant and valuable is sodium chloride (NaCl), common salt; it exists in all tissues, secretions, and fluids of the body, with exception of enamel of the teeth. The amount found in food is not always sufficient; therefore salt is used as a condiment. It assists digestion, inasmuch as it furnishes chlorine for hydrochloric acid found in gastric juice.
Common salt is obtained from evaporation of spring and sea water, also from mines. Our supply of salt obtained by evaporation comes chiefly from Michigan and New York; mined salt from Louisiana and Kansas.
Salt is a great preservative; advantage is taken of this in salting meat and fish.
Other salts--lime, phosphorus, magnesia, potash, sulphur, and iron--are obtained in sufficient quantity from food we eat and water we drink. In young children, perfect formation of bones and teeth depends upon phosphorus and lime taken into the system; these are found in meat and fish, but abound in cereals.
> STARCH (C6H10O5).
Starch is a white, glistening powder; it is largely distributed throughout the vegetable kingdom, being found most abundantly in cereals and potatoes. Being a force-producer and heat-giver, it forms one of the most important
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foods. Alone it cannot sustain life, but must be taken in combination with foods which build and repair tissues.
Test for Starch. |
Starch is insoluble in cold water, almost soluble in boiling water. Cold water separates starch-grains, boiling water causes them to swell and burst, thus forming a paste.
Starch subjected to heat is changed to dextrine (C6H10O5), British gum. Dextrine subjected to heat plus an acid or a ferment is changed to dextrose (C6H12O6). Dextrose occurs in ripe fruit, honey, sweet wine, and as a manufactured product. When grain is allowed to germinate for malting purposes, starch is changed to dextrine and dextrose. In fermentation, dextrose is changed to alcohol (C2H5HO) and carbon-dioxide (CO2). Examples: Bread-making, vinegar, and distilled liquors.
Glycogen, animal starch, is found in many animal tissues and in some fungi. Examples: In liver of meat and oysters.
Raw starch is not digestible; consequently all foods containing starch should be subjected to boiling water, and thoroughly cooked. Starch is manufactured from wheat, corn, and potatoes. Corn-starch is manufactured from Indian corn. Arrowroot, the purest form of starch, is obtained from two or three species of the Maranta plant, which grows in the West Indies and other tropical countries. Bermuda arrowroot is most highly esteemed. Tapioca is starch obtained from tuberous roots of the bitter cassava, native of South America. Sago is starch obtained from sago palms, native of India.
> SUGAR (C12H22O11).
Sugar is a crystalline substance, differing from starch by its sweet taste and solubility in cold water. As food,
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its uses are the same as starch; all starch must be converted into sugar before it can be assimilated.
The principal kinds of sugar are: Cane sugar or sucrose, grape sugar or glucose (C6H12O6), milk sugar or lactose (C12H22O11), and fruit sugar or leculose (C6H12O6).
Cane sugar- is obtained from sugar cane beets, and the palm and sugar-maple trees. Sugar cane is a grass supposed to be native to Southern Asia, but now grown throughout the tropics, a large amount coming from Cuba and Louisiana; it is the commonest and sweetest of all, and in all cases the manufacture is essentially the same. The products of manufacture are: Molasses, syrup, brown sugar, loaf, cut, granulated, powdered, and confectioners' sugar. Brown sugar is cheapest, but is not so pure or sweet as white grades; powdered and confectioners' sugars are fine grades, pulverized, and, although seeming less sweet to the taste, are equally pure. Confectioners' sugar when applied to the tongue will dissolve at once; powdered sugar is a little granular.
Cane sugar when added to fruits, and allowed to cook for some time, changes to grape sugar, losing one-third of its sweetness; therefore the reason for adding it when fruit is nearly cooked. Cane sugar is of great preservative value, hence its use in preserving fruits and milk; also, for the preparation of syrups.
Three changes take place in the cooking of sugar: First, barley sugar; second, caramel; third, carbon.
Grape sugar- is found in honey and all sweet fruits. It appears on the outside of dried fruits such as raisins, dates, etc., and is only two-thirds as sweet as cane sugar. As a manufactured product it is obtained from the starch of corn.
Milk sugar- is obtained from the milk of mammalia, but unlike cane sugar does not ferment.
Fruit sugar- is obtained from sweet fruits, and is sold as diabetin, is sweeter than cane sugar, and is principally used by diabetic patients.
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> GUM, PECTOSE AND CELLULOSE.
These compounds found in food are closely allied to the carbohydrates, but are neither starchy, saccharine, nor oily. Gum exists in the juices of almost all plants, coming from the stems, branches, and fruits. Examples: Gum arabic, gum tragacanth, and mucilage. Pectose exists in the fleshy pulp of unripe fruit; during the process of ripening it changes to pectin; by cooking, pectin is changed to pectosic acid, and by longer cooking to pectic acid. Pectosic acid is jelly-like when cold; pectic acid is jelly-like when hot or cold. Cellulose constitutes the cell-walls of vegetable life; in very young vegetables it is possible that it can be acted upon by the digestive ferments; in older vegetables it becomes woody and completely indigestible.
> FATS AND OILS.
Fats and oils are found in both the animal and vegetable kingdom. Fats are solid; oils are liquid; they may be converted into a liquid state by application of heat; they contain three substances, stearin (solid), olein (liquid), palmitin (semi-solid). Suet is an example where stearin is found in excess; lard where olein is in excess, and butter where palmitin is in excess. Margarin is a mixture of stearin and palmitin. The fatty acids are formed of stearin, olein, and palmitin, with glycerine as the base. Examples: stearic, palmitic, and oleic acid. Butyric acid is acid found in butter. These are not sour to the taste, but are called acids on account of their chemical composition.
Among animal fats cream and butter are of first importance as foods, on account of their easy assimilation. Other examples are: The fat of meats, bone-marrow, suet (the best found around the loin and kidneys of the beef creature), lard, cottolene, coto-suet, cocoanut butter, butterine and oleomargarine. The principal animal oils are
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cod liver oil and oil found in the yolk of egg; principal vegetable oils are olive, cotton-seed, poppy, and cocoanut oil, and oils obtained from various nuts.
Oils are divided into two classes, essential and fixed. Essential oils are volatile and soluble in alcohol. Examples: Clove, rose, nutmeg, and violet. Fixed oils are non-volatile and soluble in ether, oil or turpentine. Examples: Oil of nuts, corn-meal, mustard, and glycerine.
Fats may be heated to a high temperature, as considered in cookery they have no boiling point. When appearing to boil, it is evident water has been added, and the temperature lowered to that of boiling water, 212°F.
> MILK.
Proteid, 3.4%.
Fat, 4%.
Mineral matter, .7%.
Water, 87%.
Lactose, 4.9%.
Boston Chemist.
> COMPOSITION.
The value of milk as a food is obvious from the fact that it constitutes the natural food of all young mammalia during the period of their most rapid growth. There is some danger, however, of overestimating its value in the dietary of adults, as solid food is essential, and liquid taken should act as a stimulant and a solvent rather than as a nutrient. One obtains the greatest benefit from milk when taken alone at regular intervals between meals, or before retiring, and sipped, rather than drunk. Hot milk is often given to produce sleep.
When milk is allowed to stand for a few hours, the globules of fat, which have been held in suspension throughout the liquid, rise to the top in the form of cream; this is due to their lower specific gravity.
The difference in quality of milk depends chiefly on the quantity of fat therein: casein, lactose, and mineral matter
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being nearly constant, water varying but little unless milk is adulterated.
Why Milk Sours. |
Milk is preserved by sterilization, pasteurisation, and evaporation. Fresh condensed milk, a form of evaporized milk, is sold in bulk, and is preferred by many to serve with coffee. Various brands of condensed milk and cream are on the market in tin cans, hermetically sealed. Examples: Nestle's Swiss Condensed Milk, Eagle Condensed Milk, Daisy Condensed Milk, Highland Evaporated Cream, Borden's Peerless Evaporated Cream. Malted milk--evaporized milk in combination with extracts of malted barley and wheat--is used to a considerable extent; it is sold in the form of powder.
Thin, or strawberry, and thick cream may be obtained from almost all creameries. Devonshire, or clotted cream, is cream which has been removed from milk allowed to heat slowly to a temperature of about 150° F.
In feeding infants with milk, avoid all danger of infectious germs by sterilization. By this process milk can be kept for many days, and transported if necessary. To prevent acidity of the stomach, add from one to two tea-spoonfuls of lime water to each half pint of milk. Lime water may be bought at any druggist's, or easily prepared at home.
Lime Water.
Pour two quarts boiling water over an inch cube unslacked lime; stir thoroughly and stand over night; in the morning pour off the liquid that is clear, and bottle for use. Keep in a cool place.
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> MILK FOR THE SICK.
It is generally conceded that in typhoid fever and diphtheria, milk should constitute the diet in early stages of either disease. In cases where it cannot be taken alone, it may be taken in combination with soda, seltzer, Apollinaris, or Vichy water, bearing in mind that it should be given in small quantities, at frequent, regular intervals.
In cases of extreme weakness peptonized milk is often used which is partially pre-digested. Koumiss (fermented milk), which can be easily prepared at home, is much used in fevers and gastric troubles.
Where a larger amount of nutriment is required, albumenized milk is valuable.
Good reports come from the use of modified milk, prepared at the Walker-Gordon Laboratory, Boston, and from a similar laboratory in Philadelphia. Modified milk is put up by physicians' prescriptions; the milk is separated into its parts, and recombined in different proportions to better suit the needs of individual cases. The milk is always sterilized before it leaves the laboratory.
> BUTTER.
Butter of commerce is made from cream of cow's milk. The quality depends upon the breed of cow, manner of, and care in feeding. Milk from Jersey and Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of butter.
Butter should be kept in a cool place, and well covered, otherwise it is liable to become rancid; this is due to the albuminous constituents of the milk, acting as a ferment, setting free the fatty acids. First-quality butter should
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be used; this does not include pat butter or fancy grades. Poor butter has not been as thoroughly worked during manufacture, consequently more casein remains; therefore it is more apt to become rancid. Fresh butter spoils quickly; salt acts as a preservative. Butter which has become rancid by too long keeping may be greatly improved by melting, heating, and quickly chilling with ice-water. The butter will rise to the top, and may be easily removed.
Where butter cannot be afforded, there are several products on the market which have the same chemical composition as butter, and are equally wholesome. Examples: Butterine and oleomargarine.
Buttermilk is liquid remaining after butter "has come" When taken fresh, it makes a wholesome beverage.
> CHEESE.
Cheese is the solid part of sweet milk obtained by heating milk and coagulating it by means of rennet or an acid. Rennet is an infusion made from prepared inner membrane of the fourth stomach of the calf. The curd is salted and subjected to pressure. Cheese is made from skim milk, milk plus cream, or cream. Cheese is kept for a longer or shorter time, according to the kind, that fermentation or decomposition may take place. This is called ripening. Some cream cheeses are not allowed to ripen. Milk from Jersey and Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of cheese.
Cheese is very valuable food; being rich in proteid, it may be used as a substitute for meat. A pound of cheese is equal in proteid to two pounds of beef. Cheese in the raw state is difficult of digestion. This is somewhat overcome by cooking and adding a small amount of bicarbonate
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of soda. A small piece of rich cheese is often eaten to assist digestion.
The various brands of cheese take their names from the places where made. Many foreign ones are now well imitated in this country. The favorite kinds of skim-milk cheese are: Edam, Gruyère, and Parmesan. Parmesan is very hard and used principally for grating. The holes in Gruyère are due to aeration.
The favorite kinds of milk cheese are: Gloucester, Cheshire, Cheddar, and Gorgonzola; Milk and cream cheese: Stilton and Double Gloucester; Cream cheese: Brie, Neufchâtel, and Camembert.
> FRUITS.
The varieties of fruits consumed are numerous, and their uses important. They are chiefly valuable for their sugar, acids, and salts, and are cooling, refreshing, and stimulating. They act as a tonic, and assist in purifying the blood. Many contain a jelly-like substance, called pectin, and several contain starch, which during the ripening process is converted into glucose. Bananas, dates, figs, prunes, and grapes, owing to their large amount of sugar and small amount of water, are the most nutritious. Melons, oranges, lemons, and grapes contain the largest amount of water. Apples, lemons, and oranges are valuable for their potash salts, and oranges and lemons especially valuable for their citric acid. It is of importance to those who are obliged to exclude much sugar from their dietary, to know that plums, peaches, apricots, and raspberries have less sugar than other fruits; apples, sweet cherries, grapes, and pears contain the largest amount. Apples are obtainable nearly all the year, and on account of their variety, cheapness, and abundance are termed queen of fruits.
Thoroughly ripe fruits should be freely indulged in, and to many are more acceptable than desserts prepared in the kitchen. If possible, fruits should always appear on
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the breakfast-table. In cases where uncooked fruit cannot be freely eaten, many kinds may be cooked and prove valuable. Never eat unripe fruit, or that which is beginning to decay. Fruits should be wiped or rinsed before serving.
> VEGETABLE ACIDS, AND WHERE FOUND.
The principal vegetable acids are:
I. Acetic (HC2H2O2), found in wine and vinegar.
II. Tartaric (H2C4H4O6), found in grapes, pineapples, and tamarinds.
III. Malic, much like tartaric, found in apples, pears, peaches, apricots, gooseberries, and currants.
IV. Citric (H3C6H5O7), found in lemons, oranges, limes, and citron.
V. Oxalic (H2C2O4), found in rhubarb and sorrel.
To these may be added tannic acid, obtained from gall nuts. Some fruits contain two or more acids. Malic and citric are found in strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and cherries; malic, citric, and oxalic in cranberries.
> CONDIMENTS.
Condiments are not classed among foods, but are known as food adjuncts. They are used to stimulate the appetite by adding flavor to food. Among the most important are salt, spices, and various flavorings. Salt, according to some authorities, is called a food, being necessary to life.
Black pepper- is ground peppercorns. Peppercorns are the dried berries of Piper nigrum, grown in the West Indies, Sumatra, and other Eastern countries.
White pepper- is made from the same berry, the outer husk being removed before grinding. It is less irritating than black pepper to the coating of the stomach.
Cayenne pepper- is the powdered pod of capsicum grown on the eastern coast of Africa and in Zanzibar.
Mustard- is the ground seed of two species of the Brassica. Brassica alba yields white mustard seeds; Brassica nigra, black mustard seeds. Both species are grown in Europe and America.
Ginger- is pulverized dried root of Zanzibar officinale, grown in Jamaica, China, and India. Commercially speaking, there are three grades,--Jamaica, best and strongest; Cochin, and African.
Cinnamon- is ground inner bark of Cinnamomum zeylanicum, principally grown in Ceylon. The cinnamon of commerce (cassia) is powdered bark of different species of the same shrub, which is principally grown in China, and called Chinese cinnamon. It is cheaper than true cinnamon.
Clove- is ground flower buds of Caryophyllus aromaticus, native to the Moluccas or Spice Islands, but now grown principally in Zanzibar, Pemba, and the West Indies.
Pimento- (commonly called allspice) is ground fruit of the Eugenia pimenta, grown in Jamaica and the West Indies.
Nutmeg- is the kernel of the fruit of the Myristica fragrans, grown in Banda Islands.
Mace.- The fibrous network which envelops the nutmeg seed constitutes the mace of commerce.
Vinegar- is made from apple cider, malt, and wine, and is the product of fermentation. It is a great preservative; hence its use in the making of pickles, sauces, and other condiments. The amount of acetic acid in vinegar varies from two to seven per cent.
Capers- are flower buds of Capparis spinosa, grown in countries bordering the Mediterranean. They are preserved in vinegar, and bottled for importation.
Horse-radish- is root of Cochliaria armoracia,-- a plant native to Europe, but now grown in our own country. It is generally grated, mixed with vinegar, and bottled.
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> FLAVORING EXTRACTS.
Many flavoring extracts are on the market. Examples: Almond, vanilla, lemon, orange, peach, and rose. These are made from the flower, fruit, or seed from which they are named. Strawberry, pineapple, and banana extracts are manufactured from chemicals.
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> CHAPTER II.
> COOKERY.
COOKERY is the art of preparing food for the nourishment of the body.
Prehistoric man may have lived on uncooked foods, but there are no savage races to-day who do not practice cookery in some way, however crude. Progress in civilization has been accompanied by progress in cookery.
Much time has been given in the last few years to the study of foods, their necessary proportions, and manner of cooking them. Educators have been shown by scientists that this knowledge should be disseminated; as a result, "Cookery" is found in the curriculum of public schools of many of our towns and cities.
Food is cooked to develop new flavors, and make it more palatable and digestible. For cooking there are three essentials (besides the material to be cooked),--heat, air, and moisture.
Heat- is molecular motion, and is produced by combustion. Heat used for cookery is obtained by the combustion of inflammable substances--wood, coal, charcoal, coke, gas, gasoline, kerosene, and alcohol--called fuels. Heat for cookery is applied by radiation, conduction, and convection.
Air- is composed of oxygen, nitrogen, and argon, and surrounds everything. Combustion cannot take place without it, the oxygen of the air being the only supporter of combustion.
Moisture,- in the form of water, either found in the food or added to it.
The combined effect of heat and moisture swells and bursts starch-grains; hardens albumen in eggs, fish, and
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meat; softens fibrous portions of meat, and cellulose of vegetables.
Among fuels, kerosene oil is the cheapest; gas gives the greatest amount of heat in the shortest time. Soft wood, like pine, on account of its coarse fibre, burns quickly; therefore makes the best kindling. Hard wood, like oak and ash, having the fibres closely packed, burns slowly, and is used in addition to pine wood for kindling coal. Where only wood is used as a fuel, it is principally hard wood.
Charcoal for fuel is produced by the smothered combustion of wood. It gives an intense, even heat; therefore makes a good broiling fire. Its use for kindling is not infrequent.
There are two kinds of coal: Anthracite, or hard coal. Examples: Hard and free-burning White Ash, Shamokin, and Franklin. Nut is any kind of hard coal obtained from screenings. Bituminous, or soft coal. Example: Cannel coal.
Coke is the solid product of carbonized coal, and bears the same relation to coal that charcoal bears to wood.
Alcohol is employed as fuel when the chafing-dish is used.
> FIRE.
Fire for cookery is confined in a stove or range, so that heat may be utilized and regulated. Flame-heat is obtained from kerosene, gas, or alcohol, as used in oil-stoves, gas-stoves or gas-ranges, and chafing-dishes.
A cooking-stove- is a large iron box set on legs. It has a fire-box in the front, the sides of which are lined with fire-proof material similar to that of which bricks are made. The bottom is furnished with a movable iron grate. Underneath the fire-box is a space which extends from the grate to a pan for receiving ashes. At the back of fire-box is a compartment called the oven, accessible on each side of the stove by a door. Between the oven and the top of the stove is a space for the circulation of air.
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Stoves are connected with chimney-flues by means of a stove-pipe, and have dampers to regulate the supply of air and heat, and as an outlet for smoke and gases.
The damper below the fire-box is known as the front damper, by means of which the air supply is regulated, thus regulating the heat.
The oven is heated by a circulation of hot air. This is accomplished by closing the oven-damper, which is situated near the oven. When this damper is left open, the hot air rushes up the chimney. The damper near the chimney is known as the chimney-damper. When open it gives a free outlet for the escape of smoke and gas. When partially closed, as is usually the case in most ranges, except when the fire is started, it serves as a saver of heat. There is also a check, which, when open, cools the fire and saves heat, but should always be closed except when used for this purpose.
Stoves are but seldom used, portable ranges having taken their places.
A portable range- is a cooking-stove with one door; it often has an under oven, of use for warming dishes and keeping food hot.
A set range- is built in a fireplace. It usually has two ovens, one on each side of the fire-box, or two above it at the back. Set ranges, as they consume so large an amount of fuel, are being replaced by portable ones.
HOW TO BUILD A FIRE. |
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the ends of fire-box, and so arranged that it will admit air. Over pine wood arrange hard wood; then sprinkle with two shovelfuls of coal. Put on covers, open closed dampers, strike a match,--sufficient friction is formed to burn the phosphorus, this in turn lights the sulphur, and the sulphur the wood,--then apply the lighted match under the grate, and you have a fire.
Now blacken the stove. Begin at front of range, and work towards the back; as the iron heats, a good polish may be obtained. When the wood is thoroughly kindled, add more coal. A blue flame will soon appear, which is the gas (CO) in the coal burning to carbon deoxide (CO2), when the blue flame changes to a white flame; then the oven-damper should be closed. In a few moments the front damper may be nearly closed, leaving space to admit sufficient oxygen to feed the fire. It is sometimes forgotten that oxygen is necessary to keep a fire burning. As soon as the coal is well ignited, half close the chimney-damper, unless the draft be very poor.
Never allow the fire-box to be more than three-fourths filled. When full, the draft is checked, a larger amount of fuel is consumed, and much heat is lost. This is a point that should be impressed on the mind of the cook.
Ashes must be removed and sifted daily; pick over and save good coals,--which are known as cinders,--throwing out useless pieces, known as clinkers.
If a fire is used constantly during the day, replenish coal frequently, but in small quantities. If for any length of time the fire is not needed, open check, the dampers being closed; when again wanted for use, close check, open front damper, and with a poker rake out ashes from under fire, and wait for fire to burn brightly before adding new coal.
Coal when red hot has parted with most of its heat. Some refuse to believe this, and insist upon keeping dampers open until most of the heat has escaped into the chimney.
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To keep a fire over night,
remove the ashes from under the fire, put on enough coal to fill the box, close the dampers, and lift the back covers enough to admit air. This is better than lifting the covers over the fire-box, and prevents poisonous gases entering the room.
> WAYS OF COOKING.
The principal ways of cooking are boiling, broiling, stewing, roasting, baking, frying, sautéing, braising, and fricasseeing.
Boiling- is cooking in boiling water. Solid food so cooked is called boiled food, though literally this expression is incorrect. Examples: Boiled eggs, potatoes, mutton, etc.
Water boils at 212° F. (sea level), and simmers at 185° F. Rapidly boiling water has the same temperature as slowly boiling water, consequently is able to do the same work,--a fact often forgotten by the cook, who is too apt "to wood" the fire that water may boil vigorously.
Watery vapor and steam pass off from boiling water. Steam is invisible; watery vapor is visible, and is often miscalled steam. Cooking utensils commonly used admit the escape of watery vapor and steam; thereby much heat is lost if food is cooked in rapidly boiling water.
Water is boiled for two purposes: First, cooking of itself to destroy organic impurities; second, for cooking foods. Boiling water toughens and hardens albumen in eggs; toughens fibrin and dissolves tissues in meat; bursts starch-grains and softens cellulose in cereals and vegetables. Milk should never be allowed to boil. At boiling temperature (214°F.) the casein is slightly hardened, and the fat is rendered more difficult of digestion. Milk heated over boiling water, as in a double boiler, is called scalded milk, and reaches a temperature of 196° F. When foods are cooked over hot water the process is called steaming.
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Stewing- is cooking in a small amount of hot water for a long time at low temperature; it is the most economical way of cooking meats, as all nutriment is retained, and the ordinary way of cooking cheaper cuts. Thus fibre and connective tissues are softened, and the whole is made tender and palatable.
Broiling- is cooking over or in front of a clear fire. The food to be cooked is usually placed in a greased broiler or on a gridiron held near the coals, turned often at first to sear the outside,--thus preventing escape of inner juices,--afterwards turned occasionally. Tender meats and fish may be cooked in this way. The flavor obtained by broiling is particularly fine; there is, however, a greater loss of weight in this than in any other way of cooking, as the food thus cooked is exposed to free circulation of air. When coal is not used, or a fire is not in condition for broiling, a plan for pan broiling has been adopted. This is done by placing food to be cooked in a hissing hot frying-pan, turning often as in broiling.
Roasting- is cooking before a clear fire, with a reflector to concentrate the heat. Heat is applied in the same way as for broiling, the difference being that the meat for roasting is placed on a spit and allowed to revolve, thicker pieces always being employed. Tin-kitchens are now but seldom used. Meats cooked in a range oven, though really baked, are said to be roasted. Meats so cooked are pleasing to the sight and agreeable to the palate, although, according to Mr. Edward Atkinson, not so easily digested as when cooked at a lower temperature in the Aladdin oven.
Baking- is cooking in a range oven.
Frying- is cooking by means of immersion in deep fat raised to a temperature of 350° to 400°F. For frying purposes olive oil, lard, beef drippings, cottolene, coto-suet, and cocoanut butter are used. A combination of two-thirds lard and one-third beef suet (tried out and clarified) is better than lard alone. Cottolene, coto-suet, and coc oanut butter are economical, inasmuch as they
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may be heated to a high temperature without discoloring, therefore may be used for a larger number of fryings. Cod fat obtained from beef is often used by chefs for frying.
Great care should be taken in frying that fat is of the right temperature; otherwise food so cooked will absorb fat.
Nearly all foods which do not contain eggs are dipped in flour or crumbs, egg, and crumbs, before frying. The intense heat of fat hardens the albumen, thus forming a coating which prevents food from "soaking fat."
When meat or fish is to be fried, it should be kept in a warm room for some time previous to cooking, and wiped as dry as possible. If cold, it decreases the temperature of the fat to such extent that a coating is not formed quickly enough to prevent fat from penetrating the food. The ebullition of fat is due to water found in food to be cooked.
Great care must be taken that too much is not put into the fat at one time, not only because it lowers the temperature of the fat, but because it causes it to bubble and go over the sides of the kettle. It is not fat that boils, but water which fat has received from food.
All fried food on removal from fat should be drained on brown paper.
Rules for Testing Fat for Frying.
1. When the fat begins to smoke, drop in an inch cube of bread, from soft part of loaf, and if in forty seconds it is golden brown, the fat is then of right temperature for frying any cooked mixture.
2. Use same test for uncooked mixtures, allowing one minute for bread to brown.
Many kinds of food may be fried in the same fat; new fat should be used for batter and dough mixtures, potatoes, and fish-balls; after these, fish, meat, and croquettes. Fat should be frequently clarified.
To Clarify Fat.
Melt fat, add raw potato cut in quarter inch slices, and allow fat to heat gradually; when fat
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ceases to bubble and potatoes are well browned, strain through double cheese-cloth, placed over wire strainer, into a pan. The potato absorbs any odors or gases, and collects to itself some of the sediment, remainder settling to bottom of kettle.
When small amount of fat is to be clarified, add to cold fat boiling water, stir vigorously, and set aside to cool; the fat will form a cake on top, which may be easily removed; on bottom of the cake will be found sediment, which may be readily scraped off with a knife.
Remnants of fat, either cooked or uncooked, should be saved and tried out, and when necessary clarified.
Fat from beef, poultry, chicken, and pork, may be used for shortening or frying purposes; fat from mutton and smoked meats may be used for making hard and soft soap; fat removed from soup stock, the water in which corned beef has been cooked, and drippings from roast beef, may be tried out, clarified, and used for shortening or frying purposes.
To Try out Fat.
Cut in small pieces and melt in top of a double boiler; in this way it will require less watching than if placed in kettle on the back of range.
Leaf lard
is tried out in the same way; in cutting the leaf, remove membrane. After straining lard, that which remains may be salted, pressed, and eaten as a relish, and is called scraps.
Sautéing- is frying in a small quantity of fat. Food so cooked is much more difficult of digestion than when fried in deep fat; it is impossible to cook in this way without the food absorbing fat. A frying-pan or griddle is used; the food is cooked on one side, then turned, and cooked on the other.
Braising- is stewing and baking (meat). Meat to be braised is frequently first sautéd to prevent escape of much juice in the gravy. The meat is placed in a pan with a small quantity of stock or water, vegetables (carrot, turnip, celery, and onion) cut in pieces, salt, pepper, and sweet herbs. The pan should have a tight-fitting
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cover. Meat so prepared should be cooked in an oven at low uniform temperature for a long time. This is an economical way of cooking, and the only way besides stewing or boiling of making a large piece of tough meat palatable and digestible.
Fricasseeing- is sautéing and serving with a sauce. Tender meat is fricasseed without previous cooking; less tender meat requires cooking in hot water before fricasseeing. Although veal is obtained from a young creature, it requires long cooking; it is usually sautéd, and then cooked in a sauce at low temperature for a long time.
> Various Ways of Preparing Food for Cooking.
Egging and Crumbing.
Use for crumbing dried bread crumbs which have been rolled and sifted, or soft stale bread broken in pieces and forced through a colander. An ingenious machine on the market, "The Bread Crumber," does this work. Egg used for crumbing should be broken into a shallow plate and beaten with a silver fork to blend yolk and white; dilute each egg with two tablespoons water. The crumbs should be taken on a board; food to be fried should be first rolled in crumbs (care being taken that all parts are covered with crumbs), then dipped in egg mixture (equal care being taken to cover all parts), then rolled in crumbs again; after the last crumbing remove food to a place on the board where there are no crumbs, and shake off some of the outer ones which make coating too thick. A broad-bladed knife with short handle--the Teller knife--is the most convenient utensil for lifting food to be crumbed from egg mixture. Small scallops, oysters, and crabs are more easily crumbed by putting crumbs and fish in paper and shaking paper until the fish is covered with crumbs. The object of first crumbing is to dry the surface that egg may cling to it; and where a thin coating is desired flour is often used in place of crumbs.
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Larding
is introducing small pieces of fat salt pork or bacon through the surface of uncooked meat. The flavor of lean and dry meat is much improved by larding; tenderloin of beef (fillet), grouse, partridge, pigeon, and liver are often prepared in this way. Pig pork being firm, is best for larding. Pork should be kept in a cold place that it may be well chilled. Remove rind and use the part of pork which lies between rind and vein. With sharp knife (which is sure to make a clean cut) remove slices a little less than one-fourth inch thick; cut the slices into stips a little less than one-fourth inch wide; these strips should be two and one-fourth inches long, and are called lardoons. Lardoons for small birds--quail, for example--should be cut smaller and not quite so long. To lard, insert one end of lardoon into larding-needle, hold needle firmly, and with pointed end take up a stitch one-third inch deep and three-fourths inch wide; draw needle through, care being taken that lardoon is left in meat and its ends project to equal lengths. Arrange lardoons in parallel rows, one inch apart, stitches in the alternate rows being directly underneath each other. Lard the upper surface of cuts of meat with the grain, never across it. In birds, insert lardoons parallel to breast-bone on either side.
When large lardoons are forced through meat from surface to surface, the process is called daubing.
Example: Beef à la mode. Thin slices of fat salt pork placed over meat may be substituted for larding, but flavor is not the same as when pork is drawn through flesh, and the dish is far less sightly.
Boning- is removing bones from meat or fish, leaving the flesh nearly in its original shape. For boning, a small sharp knife with pointed blade is essential. Legs of mutton and veal and loins of beef may be ordered boned at market, no extra charge being made.
Whoever wishes to learn how to bone should first be taught boning of a small bird; when this is accomplished, larger birds, chickens, and turkeys may easily be done,
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the processes varying but little. In large birds, tendons are drawn from legs, and the wings are left on and boned.
How to Bone a Bird. |
Begin at neck and with sharp knife cut through the skin the entire length of body. Scrape the flesh from backbone until end of one shoulder-blade is found; scrape flesh from shoulder-blade and continue around wing-joint, cutting through tendonous portions which are encountered; then bone other side. Scrape skin from backbone the entire length of body, working across the ribs. Free wish-bone and collar-bones, at same time removing crop and windpipe; continue down breast-bone, particular care being taken not to break the skin as it lies very near bone, or to cut the delicate membranes which enclose entrails. Scrape flesh from second joints and drumsticks, laying it back and drawing off as a glove may be drawn from the hand. Withdraw carcass and put flesh back in its original shape. In large birds where wings are boned, scrape flesh to middle joint, where bone should be broken, leaving bone at tip end to assist in preserving shape.
> How to Measure.
Correct measurements are absolutely necessary to insure the best results. Good judgment, with experience, has taught some to measure by sight; but the majority need definite guides.
Tin measuring-cups, divided in quarters or thirds, holding one half-pint, and tea and table spoons of regulation sizes,--which may be bought at any store where kitchen furnishings are sold,--and a case knife, are essentials
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for correct measurement. Mixing-spoons, which are little larger than tablespoons, should not be confounded with the latter.
[Illustration: An illustration of two measuring cups accompanied by two spoons and a long knife.]
Measuring Ingredients. Flour, meal, powdered and confectioners' sugar, and soda should be sifted before measuring. Mustard and baking-powder, from standing in boxes, settle, therefore should be stirred to lighten; salt frequently lumps, and these lumps should be broken. A cupful is measured level. To measure a cupful, put in the ingredient by spoonfuls or from a scoop, round slightly, and level with a case knife, care being taken not to shake the cup. A tablespoonful is measured level. A teaspoonful is measured level.
To measure tea or table spoonfuls, dip the spoon in the ingredient, fill, lift, and level with a knife, the sharp edge of knife being toward tip of spoon. Divide with knife lengthwise of spoon, for a half-spoonful; divide halves crosswise for quarters, and quarters crosswise for eighths. Less than one-eighth of a teaspoonful is considered a few grains.
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Measuring Liquids. A cupful of liquid is all the cup will hold.
A tea or table spoonful is all the spoon will hold.
Measuring Butter, Lard, etc. To measure butter, lard, and other solid fats, pack solidly into cup or spoon, and level with a knife.
When dry ingredients, liquids, and fats are called for in the same recipe, measure in the order given, thereby using but one cup.
> How to Combine Ingredients.
Next to measuring comes care in combining,--a fact not always recognized by the inexperienced. Three ways are considered,--stirring, beating, cutting and folding.
To stir,- mix by using circular motion, widening the circles until all is blended. Stirring is the motion ordinarily employed in all cookery, alone or in combination with beating.
To beat,- turn ingredient or ingredients over and over, continually bringing the under part to the surface, thus allowing the utensil used for beating to be constantly brought in contact with bottom of the dish and throughout the mixture.
To cut and fold,- introduce one ingredient into another ingredient or mixture by two motions: with a spoon, a repeated vertical downward motion, known as cutting; and a turning over and over of mixture, allowing bowl of spoon each time to come in contact with bottom of dish, is called folding. These repeated motions are alternated until thorough blending is accomplished.
By stirring,- ingredients are mixed; by beating, a large amount of air is inclosed; by cutting and folding, air already introduced is prevented from escaping.
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[Illustration: An illustration of a number of utensils hanging on a board above some larger cooking implements, which are laid out on a table. The caption identifies each implement in order from left to right.]
> Ways of Preserving.
1. By Freezing. Foods which spoil readily are frozen for transportation, and must be kept packed in ice until used. Examples: Fish and poultry.
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2. By Refrigeration. Foods so preserved are kept in cold storage. The cooling is accomplished by means of ice, or by a machine where compressed gas is cooled and then permitted to expand. Examples: Meat, milk, butter, eggs, etc.
3. By Canning. Which is preserving in air-tight glass jars, or tin cans hermetically sealed. When fruit is canned, sugar is usually added.
4. By Sugar. Examples: Fruit-juices and condensed milk.
5. By Exclusion of Air. Foods are preserved by exclusion of air in other ways than canning. Examples: Grapes in bran, eggs in lime-water, etc.
6. By Drying. Drying consists in evaporation of nearly all moisture, and is generally with salting, except in vegetables and fruits.
7. By Evaporation. There are examples where considerable moisture remains, though much is driven off. Example: Beef extract.
8. By Salting. There are two kinds of salting,--dry, and corning or salting in brine. Examples: Salt codfish, beef, pork, tripe, etc.
9. By Smoking. Some foods, after being salted, are hung in a closed room for several hours, where hickory wood is allowed to smother. Examples: Ham, beef, and fish.
10. By Pickling. Vinegar, to which salt is added, and sometimes sugar and spices, is scalded; and cucumbers, onions, and various kinds of fruit are allowed to remain in it.
11. By Oil. Examples: Sardines, anchovies, etc.
12. By Antiseptics. The least wholesome way is by the use of antiseptics. Borax and salicilic acid, when employed, should be used sparingly.
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> TABLE OF MEASURES AND WEIGHTS.
| 2 cups butter (packed solidly)........... | = 1 | pound. |
| 2 " flour (pastry).................... | = 1 | " |
| 2 " granulated sugar.................. | = 1 | " |
| 2 2/3 " powdered " ..................... | = 1 | " |
| 3 1/2 " confectioners' sugar.............. | = 1 | " |
| 2 2/3 " brown sugar....................... | = 1 | " |
| 2 2/3 " oatmeal........................... | = 1 | " |
| 4 3/4 " rolled oats....................... | = 1 | " |
| 2 2/3 " granulated corn meal.............. | = 1 | " |
| 4 1/3 " rye meal.......................... | = 1 | " |
| 1 7/8 " rice.............................. | = 1 | " |
| 4 1/2 " Graham flour...................... | = 1 | " |
| 3 7/8 " entire wheat flour................ | = 1 | " |
| 4 1/3 " coffee............................ | = 1 | " |
| 2 " finely chopped meat............... | = 1 | " |
| 9 large eggs.................................. | = 1 | " |
| 1 square Baker's chocolate.................... | = 1 | ounce. |
| 1/3 cup almonds blanched and chopped.......... | = 1 | " |
| A few grains is less than one-eighth teaspoon. | ||
| 3 teaspoons................................... | = 1 | tablespoon. |
| 16 tablespoons................................ | = 1 | cup. |
| 2 tablespoons butter.......................... | = 1 | ounce. |
| 4 tablespoons flour........................... | = 1 | ounce. |
> TIME TABLES FOR COOKING.
| Boiling. | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| ARTICLES. | TIME. | ||
| Hours. | Minutes. | ||
| Coffee...................................................... | 1 to 3 | ||
| Eggs, soft cooked........................................... | 6 to 8 | ||
| " hard " ........................................... | 35 to 45 | ||
| Mutton leg........................................ | 2 to 3 | ||
| Ham, weight 12 to 14 lbs.......................... | 4 to 5 | ||
| Corned Beef or Tongue............................. | 3 to 4 | ||
| Turkey, weight 9 lbs.............................. | 2 to 3 | ||
| Fowl, " 4 to 5 lbs......................... | 2 to 3 | ||
| Chicken, " 3 lbs.............................. | 1 to 1 1/4 | ||
| ARTICLES. | TIME. | ||
| Hours. | Minutes. | ||
| Lobster..................................................... | 25 to 30 | ||
| Cod and Haddock, weight 3 to 5 lbs...................... | 20 to 30 | ||
| Halibut, thick piece, " 2 to 3 lbs...................... | 30 | ||
| Bluefish and Bass, " 4 to 5 lbs...................... | 40 to 45 | ||
| Salmon, weight, 2 to 3 lbs.................................. | 30 to 35 | ||
| Small fish.................................................. | 6 to 10 | ||
| Potatoes, white............................................. | 20 to 30 | ||
| " sweet............................................. | 15 to 25 | ||
| Asparagus................................................... | 20 to 30 | ||
| Peas........................................................ | 20 to 60 | ||
| String Beans...................................... | 1 to 2 1/2 | ||
| Lima and other Shell Beans........................ | 1 to 1 1/4 | ||
| Beets, young................................................ | 45 | ||
| " old........................................ | 3 to 4 | ||
| Cabbage..................................................... | 35 to 60 | ||
| Oyster Plant................................................ | 45 to 60 | ||
| Turnips..................................................... | 30 to 45 | ||
| Onions...................................................... | 45 to 60 | ||
| Parsnips.................................................... | 30 to 45 | ||
| Spinach..................................................... | 25 to 30 | ||
| Green Corn.................................................. | 12 to 20 | ||
| Cauliflower................................................. | 20 to 25 | ||
| Brussels Sprouts............................................ | 15 to 20 | ||
| Tomatoes, stewed............................................ | 15 to 20 | ||
| Rice........................................................ | 20 to 30 | ||
| Macaroni.................................................... | 20 to 25 | Broiling. | |
| Steak, one inch thick....................................... | 4 to 6 | ||
| " one and one-half inch thick.......................... | 8 to 10 | ||
| Lamb or Mutton Chops........................................ | 6 to 8 | ||
| " " " in paper cases......................... | 10 | ||
| Quails or Squabs............................................ | 8 | ||
| " " in paper cases............................ | 10 to 12 | ||
| Chickens.................................................... | 20 | ||
| Shad, Bluefish, and Whitefish............................... | 15 to 20 | ||
| Slices of Fish, Halibut, Salmon, and Swordfish.............. | 12 to 15 | ||
| Small, thin Fish............................................ | 5 to 8 | ||
| Liver and Tripe............................................. | 4 to 5 | Baking. | |
| ARTICLES. | TIME. | ||
| Hours. | Minutes. | ||
| Bread (white loaf).......................................... | 45 to 60 | ||
| " (Graham loaf)......................................... | 35 to 45 | ||
| " (sticks).............................................. | 10 to 15 | ||
| Biscuits or Rolls (raised).................................. | 12 to 20 | ||
| " (baking powder)................................... | 12 to 15 | ||
| Gems........................................................ | 25 to 30 | ||
| Muffins (raised)............................................ | 30 | ||
| " (baking powder)..................................... | 20 to 25 | ||
| Corn Cake (thin)............................................ | 15 to 20 | ||
| " (thick)........................................... | 30 to 35 | ||
| Gingerbread................................................. | 20 to 30 | ||
| Cookies..................................................... | 6 to 10 | ||
| Sponge Cake................................................. | 45 to 60 | ||
| Cake (layer)................................................ | 20 to 30 | ||
| " (loaf)................................................. | 40 to 60 | ||
| " (pound)...................................... | 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 | ||
| " (fruit)...................................... | 1 1/4 to 2 | ||
| " (wedding).................................... | 3 | ||
| or steam 2 hours and bake | 1 1/2 | ||
| Baked batter puddings....................................... | 35 to 45 | ||
| Bread puddings.................................... | 1 | ||
| Tapioca or Rice Pudding........................... | 1 | ||
| Rice Pudding (poor man's)......................... | 2 to 3 | ||
| Indian " ..................................... | 2 to 3 | ||
| Plum " ..................................... | 2 to 3 | ||
| Custard " ............................................... | 30 to 45 | ||
| " (baked in cups)..................................... | 20 to 25 | ||
| Pies........................................................ | 30 to 50 | ||
| Tarts....................................................... | 15 to 20 | ||
| Patties..................................................... | 20 to 25 | ||
| Vol-au-vent................................................. | 50 to 60 | ||
| Cheese Straws............................................... | 8 to 10 | ||
| Scalloped Oysters........................................... | 25 to 30 | ||
| Scalloped dishes of cooked mixtures......................... | 12 to 15 | ||
| Baked Beans....................................... | 6 to 8 | ||
| Braised Beef...................................... | 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 | ||
| Beef, sirloin or rib, rare, weight 5 lbs.......... | 1 | 5 | |
| " " " " " 10 "........... | 1 | 30 | |
| " " " well done, weight 5 lbs..... | 1 | 20 | |
| " " " " " 10 " ..... | 1 | 50 | |
| ARTICLES. | TIME. | ||
| Hours. | Minutes. | ||
| Beef, rump, rare, weight 10 lbs.................... | 1 | 35 | |
| " " well done, weight 10 lbs............... | 1 | 55 | |
| " (fillet)............................................... | 20 to 30 | ||
| Mutton (saddle).................................... | 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 | ||
| Lamb (leg)......................................... | 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 | ||
| " (forequarter)................................. | 1 to 1 1/4 | ||
| " (chops) in paper cases................................. | 15 to 20 | ||
| Veal (leg)......................................... | 3 1/2 to 4 | ||
| " (loin)........................................ | 2 to 3 | ||
| Pork (chine or sparerib)........................... | 3 to 3 1/2 | ||
| Chicken, weight 3 to 4 lbs......................... | 1 to 1 1/2 | ||
| Turkey, weight 9 lbs............................... | 2 1/2 to 3 | ||
| Goose, weight 9 lbs................................ | 2 | ||
| Duck (domestic).................................... | 1 to 1 1/4 | ||
| " (wild)................................................ | 20 to 30 | ||
| Grouse...................................................... | 25 to 30 | ||
| Partridge................................................... | 45 to 50 | ||
| Pigeons (potted)................................... | 2 | ||
| Fish (thick), weight 3 to 4 lbs............................. | 45 to 60 | ||
| " (small)................................................ | 20 to 30 | Frying. | |
| Muffins, Fritters, and Doughnuts............................ | 3 to 5 | ||
| Croquettes and Fishballs.................................... | 1 | ||
| Potatoes, raw............................................... | 4 to 8 | ||
| Breaded Chops............................................... | 5 to 8 | ||
| Fillets of Fish............................................. | 4 to 6 | ||
| Smelts, Trout, and other small Fish......................... | 3 to 5 | ||
NOTE.--Length of time for cooking fish and meat does not depend so much on the number of pounds to be cooked as the extent of surface exposed to the heat.
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> CHAPTER III.
> BEVERAGES.
A BEVERAGE is any drink. Water is the beverage provided for man by Nature. Water is an essential to life. All beverages contain a large percentage of water, therefore their uses should be considered:--
I. To quench thirst.
II. To introduce water into the circulatory system.
III. To regulate body temperature.
IV. To assist in carrying off waste.
V. To nourish.
VI. To stimulate the nervous system and various organs.
VII. For medicinal purposes.
Freshly boiled water should be used for making hot beverages; freshly drawn water for making cold beverages.
TEA.
Tea is used by more than one-half the human race; and, although the United States is not a tea-drinking country, one and one-half pounds are consumed per capita per annum.
All tea is grown from one species of shrub, Thea, the leaves of which constitute the tea of commerce. Climate, elevation, soil, cultivation, and care in picking and curing all go to make up the differences. First-quality tea is made from young, whole leaves. Two kinds of tea are considered:--
Black tea,- made from leaves which have been allowed to ferment before curing.
Green tea,- made from unfermented leaves artificially colored.
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The best black tea comes from India and Ceylon. Some familiar brands are Oolong, Formosa, English Breakfast, Orange Pekoe, and Flowery Pekoe. The last two named often employed at the "five o'clock tea," command high prices; they are made from the youngest leaves. Orange Pekoe is scented with orange leaves. The best green tea comes from Japan. Some familiar brands are Hyson, Japan, and Gunpowder.
From analysis, it has been found that tea is rich in proteid, but taken as an infusion acts as a stimulant rather than as a nutrient. The nutriment is gained from sugar and milk served with it. The stimulating property of tea is due to the alkaloid, theine, together with an essential oil; it contains an astringent, tannin. Black tea contains less theine, essential oil, and tannin, than green tea. The tannic acid, developed from the tannin by infusion, injures the coating of the stomach.
Although tea is not a substitute for food, it appears so for a considerable period of time, as its stimulating effect is immediate. It is certain that less food is required where much tea is taken, for by its use there is less wear of the tissues, consequently less need of repair. When taken to excess, it so acts on the nervous system as to produce sleeplessness and insomnia, and finally makes a complete wreck of its victim. Taken in moderation, it acts as a mild stimulant, and ingests a considerable amount of water into the system; it heats the body in winter, and cools the body in summer.
Freshly boiled water should be used for making tea. Boiled, because below the boiling-point the stimulating property, theine, would not be extracted. Freshly boiled, because long cooking renders it flat and insipid to taste on account of escape of its atmospheric gases. Tea should always be infused, never boiled. Long steeping destroys the delicate flavor by developing a larger amount of tannic acid.
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How to make Tea. |
Scald an earthen or china teapot.
Put in tea, and pour on boiling water. Let stand on back of range or in a warm place five minutes. Strain and serve immediately, with or without sugar and milk. Avoid second steeping of leaves with addition of a few fresh ones. If this is done, so large an amount of tannin is extracted that various ills are apt to follow.
Five o'Clock Tea. |
Russian Tea. |
Iced Tea. |
Follow recipe for making tea. Strain into glasses one-third full of cracked ice. Sweeten to taste. The flavor is much finer by chilling the infusion quickly.
> COFFEE.
The coffee-tree is native to Abyssinia, but is now grown in all tropical countries. It belongs to the genus Coffea, of which there are about twenty-two species. The seeds of berries of coffee-trees constitute the coffee of commerce. Each berry contains two seeds, with exception
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of maleberry, which is a single round seed. In their natural state they are almost tasteless; therefore color, shape, and size determine value. Formerly, coffee was cured by exposure to the sun; but on account of warm climate and sudden rainfalls, coffee was often injured. By the new method coffee is washed, and then dried by steam heat.
In coffee plantations, trees are planted in parallel rows, from six to eight feet apart, and are pruned so as never to exceed six feet in height. Banana-trees are often grown in coffee plantations, advantage being taken of their outspreading leaves, which protect coffee-trees from direct rays of the sun. Brazil produces about two-thirds the coffee used. Central America, Java, and Arabia are also coffee centres.
Tea comes to us ready for use; coffee needs roasting. In process of roasting the seeds increase in size, but lose fifteen per cent in weight. Roasting is necessary to develop the delightful aroma and flavor. Java coffee is considered finest. Mocha commands a higher price, owing to certain acidity and sparkle, which alone is not desirable; but when combined with Java, in proportion of two parts Java to one part Mocha, the coffee best suited to average taste is made. Some people prefer Maleberry Java; so especial care is taken to have male berries separated, that they may be sold for higher price. Old Government Java has deservedly gained a good reputation, as it is carefully inspected, and its sale controlled by Dutch government. Strange as it may seem to the consumer, all coffee sold as Java does not come from the island of Java. Any coffee, wherever grown, having same characteristics and flavor, is sold as Java. The same is true of other kinds of coffee.
The stimulating property of coffee is due to the alkaloid caffeine, together with an essential oil. Like tea, it contains an astringent. Coffee is more stimulating than tea, although, weight for weight, tea contains about twice as much theine as coffee contains caffeine. The smaller
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proportion of tea used, accounts for the difference. A cup of coffee with breakfast, and a cup of tea with supper, serve as a mild stimulant for an adult, and form a valuable food adjunct, but should never be found in the dietary of a child or dyspeptic. Coffee taken in moderation quickens action of the heart, acts directly upon the nervous system, and assists gastric digestion. Fatigue of body and mind are much lessened by moderate use of coffee; severe exposure to cold can be better endured by the coffee drinker. In times of war, coffee has proved more valuable than alcoholic stimulants to keep up the enduring power of soldiers. Coffee acts as an antidote for opium and alcoholic poisoning. Tea and coffee are much more readily absorbed when taken on an empty stomach; therefore this should be avoided except when used for medicinal purposes. Coffee must be taken in moderation; its excessive use means palpitation of the heart, tremor, insomnia, and nervous prostration.
Coffee is often adulterated with chiccory, beans, peas, and various cereals, which are colored, roasted, and ground. By many, a small amount of chiccory is considered an improvement, owing to the bitter principle and volatile oil which it contains. Chiccory is void of caffeine. The addition of chiccory may be detected by adding cold water to supposed coffee; if chiccory is present, the liquid will be quickly discolored, and chiccory will sink; pure coffee will float.
Buying of Coffee. |
Coffee may be served as filtered coffee, infusion of coffee, or decoction of coffee. Commonly speaking, boiled coffee is preferred, and is more economical for
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the consumer. Coffee is ground fine, coarse, and medium; and the grinding depends on the way in which it is to be made. For filtered coffee have it finely ground; for boiled, coarse or medium.
Filtered Coffee. |
Various kinds of coffee-pots are on the market for making filtered coffee. They all contain a strainer to hold coffee without allowing grounds to mix with infusion. Some have additional vessel to hold boiling water, upon which coffee-pot may rest.
Place coffee in strainer, strainer in coffee-pot, and pot on the range. Add gradually boiling water, and allow it to filter. Cover between additions of water. If desired stronger, re-filter. Serve at once with cut sugar and cream.
Put sugar and cream in cup before hot coffee. There will be perceptible difference if cream is added last. If cream is not obtainable, scalded milk may be substituted, or part milk and part cream may be used, if a diluted cup of coffee is desired.
Boiled Coffee. |