Chinese-Japanese Cook Book Bosse, Sara Watanna, Onoto Cookery, Chinese. Cookery, Japanese. Cookery, American. Part 1 Chinese Recipes. Rules for Cooking. Soups. Gravy. Fish. Poultry and Game. Meats. Chop Sueys. Chow Mains. Fried Rice. Omelettes. Vegetables. Cakes. Part II. Japanese Recipes. Soups. Fish. Poultry and Game. Omelettes and Custards. Vegetable and Relishes. Cakes, Candies, Sweetmeats. Bean Sprouts and Beverages. List of Chinese and Japanese Groceries. Index. Chicago, New York: Rand McNally & Company Electronic edition created by Digital & Multimedia Center, Michigan State University Libraries, East Lansing, Michigan, 2002-2003. Supplementary material by Jan Longone, Anne-Marie Rachman, Peter Berg, Yvonne Lockwood, and Val Berryman 1914 Text xml-external-parsed-entity gif quicktime http://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/chinesejapanese/chin.xml OCLC 16942454 en Digitized as part of "Feeding America: The Historic American Cookbook Project." Michigan State University Libraries, East Lansing, Michigan, 2002-2003. http://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/ United States Twentieth century The book digitized here was published in the United States before 1923 and is in the public domain according to U.S. copyright law. The digital version and supplementary materials are made available for all educational uses.

Chinese JapaneseCOOK BOOK

An image of a woman sitting in Japanese style home, cooking what looks like soup.

SARA BOSSE ONOTO WATANNA

STAND FASTGrantENDOWMENT FUNDThe seal of the Beatrice V. Grant Stand Fast Endowment Fund.

BEATRICE V. GRANT MSU 1929 - 1965

PROFESSOR of FOODS & NUTRITIONCOLLECTOR of RARE COOKERY BOOKS

Her private collection of rare cookery books was donated by her sister, Dr. Rhoda Grant, to the MSU Libraries, May 1984.

Jan LongoneWine & Food Books1207 W. MadisonAnn Arbor, MI 48103734-653-4094

CHINESE-JAPANESECOOK-BOOK

CHINESE-JAPANESECOOK BOOK BYSARA BOSSEANDONOTO WATANNA RAND McNALLY & COMPANY CHICAGO NEW YORK

THE RAND-MCNALLY PRESSCHICAGO

CONTENTS Preface.............1 PART I CHINESE RECIPES PAGE Rules for Cooking..............................9 Soups.........................................12 Gravy.........................................19 Fish..........................................20 Poultry and Game..............................27 Meats ........................................36 Chop Sueys....................................41 Chow Mains....................................47 Fried Rice....................................51 Omelettes.....................................54 Vegetables....................................57 Cakes.........................................64 PART II JAPANESE RECIPES Soups.........................................71 Fish .........................................75 Poultry and Game..............................79 Omelettes and Custards........................87 Vegetables and Relishes.......................93 Cakes, Candies, Sweetmeats...................104 Bean Sprouts and Beverages...................109 List of Chinese and Japanese Groceries.......111 Index.............113

PREFACE

Chinese cooking in recent years has become very popular in America, and certain Japanese dishes are also in high favor. The restaurants are no longer merely the resort of curious idlers, intent upon studying types peculiar to Chinatown, for the Chinese restaurants have pushed their way out of Chinatown and are now found in all parts of the large cities of America. In New York they rub elbows with and challenge competition with the finest eating palaces. Their patronage to-day is of the very best, and many of their dishes are justly famous.

There is no reason why these same dishes should not be cooked and served in any American home. When it is known how simple and clean are the ingredients used to make up these Oriental dishes, the Westerner will cease to feel that natural repugnance which assails one when about to taste a strange dish of a new and strange land.

Bread, butter, and potatoes are never used by the Chinese or Japanese. Tea is drunk plain, with neither cream nor sugar, but great care should be used in its brewing. Rice is indispensable, and should be cooked in that peculiarly delectable fashion of which the Oriental peoples alone are past masters. The secret of the solid, flaky, almost dry, yet thoroughly cooked rice lies in the fact that it is never boiled more than thirty minutes, is covered twenty minutes, never stirred nor disturbed, and set to dry on back of range when cooked, covered with a cloth. Mushy, wet, slimy, overcooked rice is unknown to the Chinese and Japanese. Sweetened rice, as in rice pudding and similar dishes, is unknown. Rice takes the place of such staples as bread and potatoes. Syou, sometimes called Soye, is similar to Worcestershire and similar European sauces. In fact, the latter are all said to be adaptations of the original Chinese syou, and most of these European sauces contain syou in their makeup. It lends a flavor to any meat dish, and is greatly esteemed by the Oriental peoples.

In China, with the exception of rice, bonbons, and so on, food is served in one large dish or bowl, out of which all eat, using the chop-sticks. Considerable etiquette governs the manner of picking desired morsels from the main bowls. In high-caste or mandarin families a servant has his place at the foot of the table, but he stands throughout the meal. It is his duty to serve at the table the portions from the main dishes to each individual, and to do what the host generally does for the comfort of those at table. The other servants waiting on table take their orders from him, and he is really there as a sort of proxy for the host.

In Japan, individual meals are brought in on separate trays to each person. All sit cross-legged upon the floor before their trays. The Japanese consider it gross and vulgar to put food in quantity upon the plate. The portions are very small, the largest being about the size of an egg. There is a striving for daintiness and simplicity.

For this book only such Chinese and Japanese dishes have been selected as would appeal to the Western palate, and which can be prepared with the kitchen utensils of Western civilization. Many dishes prepared by the Chinese cooks in this country are only modifications of their native dishes. Recipes for the same dish, obtained from different parts of China, vary considerably. The combinations here given are those which experience has proved most easily prepared and most palatable.

The authors advise any one who intends to cook "Chinese" to go to some Chinese restaurant and taste the various dishes he desires to cook. A good cook always should know what a dish tastes like before he tries to cook it. All cooks can tell how the taste of a strange dish reveals to him many things, and it is often possible to guess of what the dish is composed.

No cookbooks, so far as the authors know, have ever been published in China. Recipes descend like heirlooms from one generation of cooks to another. The recipes included in this book (the Chinese ones, that is) have been handed down from Vo Ling, a worthy descendant of a long line of noted Chinese cooks, and himself head cook to Gow Gai, one time highest mandarin of Shanghai. They are all genuine, and were given as an especial expression of respect by a near relative of the famous family of Chinese cooks.

PART ICHINESE RECIPES

RULES FOR COOKING GENERAL

The first and the most important rule for Chinese cooking is cleanliness, first of the hands, second of the utensils, and third of the food.

Meat should not be washed, but should be rinsed in cold or lukewarm water and, if necessary, singed over a hot flame and scraped with a sharp knife.

All vegetables and fruit should be washed in cold water,--if necessary, in fifty different waters.

Never use soap to wash saucepans. Use washing soda or sand.

All cloths and dish towels should be boiled and rinsed thoroughly.

Care must be taken to measure accurately the ingredients of recipes, for the spices and relishes used in Chinese kitchens are exceedingly hot and pronounced in flavor.

To make rich stock for soup use only a quart of water to every pound of veal, mutton, or beef bone.

To determine whether a fish is fresh, watch that its flesh is firm and thick, its scales glistening, and its eyes prominent.

When dropped into a bowl or pan containing cold water, eggs that are absolutely fresh will immediately sink to the bottom and rest there; eggs which are not perfectly fresh will stand on end or rise a little.

Delicious dishes can be obtained only from the use of the purest and best quality of ingredients. A good cook needs to be as well a discriminating purchaser.

Glass measures recording pints and quarts of liquid and ounces and pounds of solids (like sugar), with the fractions thereof, are handy and sanitary.

TO BOIL RICE Use an iron pot. Wash the rice thoroughly in many waters, until, in fact, the water is as clear as for drinking. To one cupful of rice add one and a quarter cupfuls of cold water. Cover tight, and boil slowly half an hour--no more. On no account stir. Rice should not be disturbed till it is taken up; that is the secret of the dry, finely cooked Chinese rice. Set on back of range, covered with a clean cloth or napkin, until ready to serve. Rice should be served in individual bowls, replenished as soon as empty throughout the meal. With the Chinese it takes the place of bread or potatoes. Salt is not added until it is served.

TEA The quantity of tea used depends on the quality, and the taste of the individual. Rinse the pot with boiling water before putting in the tea. The water should just come to a boil--no more. Pour on the tea leaves. Let it stand for two or three minutes, but on no account must it be allowed to boil. Strain tea from leaves, and serve pure, if Chinese tea is used. See more about tea on page 109.

SOUPS

YEA FOO MAIN One quart of soup stock; one quarter pound of mushrooms; three stalks of celery; one eighth clove of garlic; six water chestnuts; one quarter pound of vermicelli; one and one quarter teaspoonfuls of salt; one teaspoonful of syou (Chinese sauce).

Have the soup stock boiling hot. Then wash thoroughly in cold water all the above vegetables, and cut in small pieces. Add to the soup one tablespoonful of syou, and the salt and pepper. Let all boil twenty minutes; then add the vermicelli and boil fifteen minutes more. Serve with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters.

YAT KO MAIN One quart of soup stock; one quarter pound of noodles; one and one half teaspoonfuls of salt; one quarter pound of minced ham; one tablespoonful of syou; one small onion; one stalk of celery.

Boil the noodles until tender--about ten minutes. Then remove from the hot water, and put in cold water to soak, while preparing the soup. To one quart of good soup stock add one onion and one stalk of celery, chopped fine, pepper and salt, and one tablespoonful of syou. Boil ten minutes. Remove noodles from the cold water, add them to the soup, and boil for five minutes more. The ham should be shredded. Just before serving sprinkle it on top.

SOUP STOCK Save all beef, veal, and chicken bones and clean pieces of meat; also the feet of chickens and the giblets. Wash the chicken feet and skin them, by first scalding in boiling water. Cover all the above with cold water and let it boil from five to eight hours slowly, with salt to taste. Drain liquor from bones, and set away to cool. When cold it will be a thick jelly, and is used as the foundation for various soups and gravies.

MO KU GAI T'ONG(Spring Chicken Soup with Mushrooms) Two and one half pounds of chicken; one quarter pound of lean pork; one quarter pound of dried mushrooms; one dozen lotus seeds; three stalks of celery; one teaspoonful of salt; one tablespoonful of syou; one onion.

Clean a fresh young chicken of about two and one half pounds. Cut off all the flesh; put the bones, with liver and gizzard, into three pints of cold water, and boil for two hours, adding water if it boils away. While the stock is boiling, prepare the following: Cut up the chicken meat into small pieces. Cut up very fine one quarter pound of lean pork. Wash and soak in lukewarm water one quarter pound of dried mushrooms. Pull off all the stalks. Peel and cut a dozen lotus seeds or water chestnuts. Chop three stalks of celery very fine, and also one onion. Pour off the liquor from the bones, and strain. Cut up liver and gizzard fine and return to stock. Add all the ingredients, with one teaspoonful of salt and one tablespoonful of syou. Boil all together for one hour.

GAI GRUN YUNG WAA(Bird's-nest Soup) One half pound of bird's nest; one pint of chicken stock; one quarter pound of cooked breast of chicken; one boiled egg; one quarter pound of minced ham; one teaspoonful of salt.

To make this soup, the bird's nest is first boiled an hour, then drained and put into cold water. Meanwhile the cooked chicken meat is well pounded, so as not to be in large or hard pieces, and a cupful of the cold stock is added to it. Next the bird's nest is taken from the cold water and well drained, and added to the soup stock. Boil for half an hour. Now the chicken meat is added, and also the egg, the latter having previously been finely crumbled. The soup is taken off the fire as it begins to boil again after the last addition. Before serving, the minced ham is sprinkled on top.

Bird's nest is a gelatinous substance, a species of seaweed, with which certain Chinese birds, the esculent swallow and the white-backed swallow, build their nests. It is also found in Java. It is one of the most delicious of Chinese foods, and esteemed and praised not alone by the Chinese but by all travelers in the Orient.

SEAWEED SOUP Two yolks of hard-boiled eggs; one can of seaweed; three chicken giblets; two tablespoonfuls of syou; one and one half teaspoonfuls of Quong Sang Chong (water chestnut flour).

Boil one can of seaweed until it is like thin jelly. Have ready three chicken giblets, chopped very fine, having first boiled them one hour in a quart of water. Add the seaweed, and boil all together for half an hour. Strain, then crumble in the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, stir in two tablespoonfuls of syou, and salt to taste. Rub smooth one and a half teaspoonfuls of Quong Sang Chong in a little cold water, then add to the soup and stir until it thickens slightly. Serve with a small piece of seaweed on top that has been soaking in spiced vinegar.

BÄK TOY GUN(Chinese Soup of White Vegetables) Two tablespoonfuls of syou; one half pound of white mushrooms; one dozen water chestnuts; one quarter pound of bean sprouts; one stalk of celery; two small onions; three eggs; bit of garlic.

No meator stock is used for this soup. Have ready three pints of boiling, salted water, with the two tablespoonfuls of syou in it. Add all of above vegetables (which have been previously washed in cold water, and cut in small pieces) except the mushrooms and celery. Boil for fifteen minutes, then add the mushrooms and celery. Whip up the three eggs in a little cold water, and drop slowly into the boiling soup, stirring the soup as it drops, and it will form into fanciful shapes. Remove at once, and serve.

GRAVY

Use pork fat cut up and fried crisp. Then rub smooth one tablespoonful of Quong Sang Chong (water-chestnut flour) or rice flour in cold water, and stir it slowly into the boiling fat until it thickens and browns. Add syou, salt, pepper, and a little sugar. In preparing chop sueys and similar dishes, use this gravy if the mixture is too dry.

GRAVY WITH ONIONS Place two tablespoonfuls of chicken fat or pork fat in pan, and when it is very hot add a finely chopped onion and fry a golden brown. Now slowly stir in one tablespoonful of flour until brown (taking care not to burn), salt, pepper, and a little sugar, then slowly pour boiling water, stirring all the time, until you have a smooth, rich gravy. Use for addition to the various dishes.

FISH

TEN SUNE GUNE(Sweet and Sour Fish) Two pounds of sea bass; one and one half cupfuls of water; one tablespoonful of Quong Sang Chong (water-chestnut flour); two and one half tablespoonfuls of vinegar.

Clean a sea bass of about two pounds. Take out all the insides, taking care to keep the fish whole. Then put it into a medium deep dish large enough to fit the fish. Pour over it water almost boiling, cover fish well over. Put a lid on dish, and leave on range for one hour. Do not boil, but keep it hot. Now prepare the following sauce: Rub smooth one tablespoonful of Quong Sang Chong. To a cup and a half of water add one tablespoonful of salt, one and one half tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two and one half tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Mix well. Boil until it thickens, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Dish up the fish, place on another hot, dry dish, then pour over it the sauce, and serve with rice.

PINEAPPLE FISH Two pounds of fish; one tablespoonful of syou; one can of preserved pineapple.

Clean a haddock or codfish of about two pounds and take out the bones. Rub well with salt, and set in a fish pan. Cover well with boiling water, and let it simmer gently for twenty minutes. Drain off all the water, and add one tablespoonful of syou and one can of preserved pineapple. Let this simmer slowly for fifteen minutes longer. Thicken with cornstarch or Quong Sang Chong, and serve with rice.

LOBSTER OMELETTE One teaspoonful of peanut oil; two eggs; one tablespoonful of cold water; one tablespoonful of chopped lobster meat; salt and pepper.

Use small frying pan and put into it a tablespoonful of peanut oil. Heat it. Now beat two eggs with a tablespoonful of cold water. Pour half in the pan. Have ready the cooked lobster, broken into small pieces. Quickly pour in the other half of beaten eggs, and cook slowly for five minutes. Slip off pan without breaking, and make two or three more omelettes in exactly the same way, or have several small frying pans and cook all at once, serving one omelette on top of another in a hot water-heated platter.

COLD PICKLED FISH Two pounds of fish; one pint of vinegar; one pint of water; four red peppers; one tablespoonful of salt; one teaspoonful of sugar.

Any white fish can be used that is large enough to slice. Wash the fish, then wipe dry and lay it in an earthen dish. Mix together one pint of vinegar and one pint of water, and when boiling, pour it over the fish. Cut up four red peppers, taking out the seeds. Sprinkle the salt and sugar over the fish, and then lay in the peppers. Cover tight, and put away for two hours. Then drain off all vinegar and water. This dish is very good served with bamboo shoots, rice, or any kind of vegetable.

YEU(Fish Cakes) Two eggs; one cupful of fish meat; two cupfuls of rice flour; two tablespoonfuls of peanut oil; one and one half teaspoonfuls of salt; one quarter pound of almonds.

Take any dried fish, and remove all bones and skin. Then pound the fish to a powder, and mix one cup of the fish with a quarter pound of blanched almonds, also pounded, two cupfuls of dried and powdered rice flour, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Beat the whites of two eggs with a little cold water, enough to make a thin paste. Mix well all together. Roll very thin, cut into cakes, and bake in a hot oven in hot peanut oil for twenty minutes. Remove the cakes from the oil, and drain on paper in a slow oven until cakes are dry and crisp.

SHRIMP OMELETTE One half cup of shrimp meat; five eggs; one cupful of mushrooms; two tablespoonfuls of sweet lard; salt and pepper.

Put the sweet lard in the pan, and when hot throw in the mushrooms, which have been first washed and cut small. Cook for five minutes, then add the shrimp meat, which has previously been cooked and flaked. Cook for two minutes more. Beat five eggs and throw in the pan, and cook for five minutes, taking care not to burn, but do not stir or shake the pan, save very gently. Slip omelette off pan without breaking, and with the mushroom and shrimp side up, or folded in two. Serve on a hot platter.

DRIED SHRIMP STEW Two cupfuls of dried shrimp; one tablespoonful of rice flour; one teaspoonful of salt; a dash of cayenne pepper; one and one half tablespoonfuls of syou.

Soak the shrimps in cold water for half an hour, drain, and cover with cold water, add the cayenne pepper and syou, and boil slowly about one hour. Mix the rice flour with cold water to a smooth paste, and stir until it thickens. Serve with rice.

CURRY SHRIMPS One onion; one tablespoonful of olive oil; one and one half teaspoonfuls of curry powder; one tablespoonful of syou; one cupful of boiling water; one tablespoonful of rice flour; one teaspoonful of salt; one and one half pounds of boiled shrimps.

Fry to a light brown in one tablespoonful of pure olive oil, one onion, chopped fine. Mix one and one half teaspoonfuls of curry powder with a little cold water to make a smooth paste, and stir it in. Add a tablespoonful of syou, a cupful of boiling water, a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne pepper, and dust with rice powder, stirring until it thickens. Have ready a pound of cooked shrimps, flaked, or white fish may be used instead. Simmer for five minutes, and serve with rice.

POULTRY AND GAME

FRIED CHICKEN(Chinese Style) Two and one half pounds of chicken; two tablespoonfuls of sweet lard; one tablespoonful of syou; one half onion; one teaspoonful of corn starch or Quong Sang Chong; one teaspoonful of salt.

Clean a young spring chicken, and cut it into small pieces. Fry to a golden brown in hot, sweet lard. Serve with a brown gravy prepared as follows: Boil the giblets until tender, then chop very fine and return to the liquor in which they were boiled. Add a tablespoonful of syou and half an onion chopped fine; boil for ten minutes. Thicken with a teaspoonful of cornstarch or rice flour, and pour over the chicken. Serve hot, with rice.

SHU BOK AP(Fried Squab) Two squabs; olive or peanut oil; two chicken livers; one small onion; two tablespoonfuls of syou; one tablespoonful of Chinese almonds; one quarter pound of white mushrooms; one teaspoonful of salt; yolks of two eggs, hard-boiled.

Cut the squabs in pieces, not too small. Let the legs be separated from the body, also the wings, and cut the rest in four pieces. Singe off all hair and feathers. Wash in cold water, and wipe dry. Dip each piece of squab in dry flour, and toss in boiling olive or peanut oil. Cook until it is crisp. Drain off all fat, while preparing the following: Put one tablespoonful of olive oil in the pan, and when it is hot, place the chicken livers (chopped very fine) in the fat, add a small minced onion, two tablespoonfuls of syou, a tablespoonful of Chinese small almonds, blanched and chopped, and a quarter of a pound of white mushrooms, cut small. Fry for ten minutes, then pour into hot dish and place the squab on top, garnished with crumbled hard-boiled yolks of eggs.

ROAST SQUAB One plump squab; two chicken livers; one dozen fresh mushrooms; one tablespoonful of Chinese almonds; one tablespoonful of chicken fat; two tablespoonfuls of syou; one teaspoonful of salt; one quarter small onion; one teaspoonful of cornstarch.

Clean and singe a plump squab. Rub inside and out with salt. Stuff it with the following: A dozen mushrooms, peeled and cut small, a tablespoonful of almonds which have been blanched and chopped fine, and a little minced onion. Mix together, and fill the squab. Now sew or skew tight, and melt the tablespoonful of chicken fat and pour it over the squab. Place in a hot oven and roast for half an hour, basting and turning frequently. Make the gravy, meanwhile, by chopping fine two chicken livers and frying them in a teaspoonful of chicken fat. When very brown, stir in a teaspoonful of cornstarch until brown. Now add two tablespoonfuls of syou, and serve with the squab.

STEAMED DUCK Three and one half pound duck; one quarter pound of pork; one quarter pound of mushrooms; one quarter pound of water chestnuts; one quarter cup of barley; one and one half tablespoonfuls of syou; one teaspoonful of salt.

After the duck has been well cleaned, inside and out, cut down the breast, dry well, and rub it thoroughly with salt. Lay in a bowl, and then prepare the following filling: Take one quarter pound of pork, chopped fine; one quarter pound of mushrooms, cut small, and one quarter pound of water chestnuts, sliced thin. Boil one quarter pound of barley for ten minutes, adding half a tablespoonful of syou and a teaspoonful of salt. Mix together all of the above ingredients, fill the duck, and sew or skew it up. Steam for three hours, and serve with rice.

DUCK WITH HERBS Three to four pound duck; one quarter pound of pork fat; one onion; two stalks of celery; one lemon peeling; one quarter clove of garlic; two tablespoonfuls of syou; one tablespoonful of mixed spices; one cup of stock; one dozen mushrooms; one teaspoonful of salt; one tablespoonful of parsley.

Drain and singe the duck. Wipe, then thoroughly dry, inside and out, with a clean, damp cloth. Line a pan with small pieces of pork (fat). Sprinkle the bottom with minced onion, celery, grated lemon peel, and the garlic, grated fine. Lay the duck in and cover with a tablespoonful of mixed spices, two tablespoonfuls of syou, and a cup of rich stock. Set over the fire and simmer for two hours, basting often. Wash the mushrooms and turn them in, and cook all together for ten minutes. Take up, and thicken the gravy with cornstarch or rice flour. Lastly, toss in the chopped parsley. Cut up the duck in small pieces (not too small), arrange on dish, pour the gravy with the herbs around the duck, and serve hot with rice.

BOO LOO GAI(Pineappple Chicken} One young chicken; one tablespoonful of sweet lard; one tablespoonful of syou; one can of preserved pineapple.

Wash and singe a young, fresh chicken and cut off all the flesh. Slice it, put a tablespoonful of sweet lard in the pan, and fry. Do not let it burn. Add the chicken, and fry brown. Add a tablespoonful of syou and a can of preserved pineapple, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Thicken the pineapple juice with a teaspoonful of Quong Sang Chong, and serve hot with rice.

SWEET AND PUNGENT CHICKEN Three and one half pound chicken; one dessert-spoonful of salt; two tablespoonfuls of sugar; two cupfuls of vinegar; one half onion; one tablespoonful of sweet lard; two tablespoonfuls of syou.

Take a young chicken of about three and one half pounds. Clean and singe it, and remove all the bones. Lay in a stone dish and over it pour (enough to cover well) a mixture of two cupfuls of boiling vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of salt, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Cover, and put away in a cool place for twenty-four hours. Prepare a brown gravy by chopping half an onion and frying it a light brown in sweet lard or chicken fat. Cut the chicken into quarters, and put in a pan with two tablespoonfuls of syou. Simmer for half an hour very gently. Serve with rice.

LYCHEE CHICKEN Two pound chicken; one teaspoonful of salt; one quart of lychee nuts; two tablespoonfuls of syou; one half small onion; two tablespoonfuls of sweet lard.

Cut into small pieces a fresh young chicken of about two pounds and rub well with salt. Fry two tablespoonfuls of sweet lard a very light brown. Add two tablespoonfuls of syou, and cover tight. Simmer for half an hour. Have ready a quart of lychee nuts, peeled and stoned. Add these to the chicken, with the minced onion, and cook slowly for twenty-six minutes. Serve with rice.

HOP HO GAI DIN (Fried Chicken with Almonds or Walnuts) Two and one half pound chicken; two tablespoonfuls of olive oil; one cupful of Chinese almonds; two stalks of celery; one teaspoonful of onion juice; two tablespoonfuls of syou; one quarter pound of white mushrooms.

Use only the breast of a young chicken, and cut it in small tubes. Fry to a golden brown in two tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Take a cupful of almonds or walnuts, blanched and chopped, and half a pound of small white mushrooms cut up small; to this add a teaspoonful of onion juice and two tablespoonfuls of syou. Turn all in with the chicken and simmer half an hour. Thicken with Quong Sang Chong, and garnish with a border of nuts.

CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS One tablespoonful of sweet lard; two pounds of chicken; one onion; one pound of fresh mushrooms; one tablespoonful of syou; two teaspoonfuls of salt.

Put the lard in the pan, and have it boiling hot. Cut up a young chicken, and remove all the bones; then lay it in the fat, and cook to a golden brown. Mince the onion and add. Wash and cut up the mushrooms, and add with a tablespoonful of syou. Cook all slowly for fifteen minutes.

MEATS

PORK WITH GREEN PEPPERS One and one half pounds of pork; two tablespoonfuls of syou; six green peppers; one onion; one teaspoonful of salt.

Cut the pork in strips about two inches long and half an inch thick. Wash the peppers, remove the seeds, and cut into small pieces; then add to the meat with two tablespoonfuls of syou, one onion chopped fine, and a tablespoonful of salt. Cover, and cook for ten minutes. Serve with rice.

CHINESE FRIED PORK WITH ONIONS One pound of pork; two large onions; two tablespoonfuls of syou; one teaspoonful of salt.

Cut about a pound of fresh pork (not too fat) in tubes, and fry a light brown. Cut up two large onions and fry with the pork until all is brown, then add the salt and two tablespoonfuls of syou, and fry very hot. This is very tasty, and good served with boiled rice.

PEPPER STEAK One and one half pounds of beef; two tablespoonfuls of beef suet; three tablespoonfuls of syou; six green peppers; one onion.

Take the upper cut of the round of beef and cut into strips about two inches long. Fry in the beef suet for about four minutes, then add one onion, cut fine. Have the green peppers washed and the seeds removed, and cut in small pieces. Turn in with the beef, and add three tablespoonfuls of syou and some salt. Cover tight, and let simmer for ten minutes.

BEEF KIDNEY WITH CHINESE MUSHROOMS One beef kidney; one quarter pound of dried mushrooms; one small onion; one and one half teaspoonfuls of salt; dash of cayenne pepper; two tablespoonfuls of chopped fat pork; three tablespoonfuls of syou.

Soak the kidney for half an hour in cold water with a handful of salt; then cut in small pieces and fry in pork fat. Wash a quarter of a pound of dried mushrooms in lukewarm water, pull off the stalks, and soak for ten minutes. Add this to the kidney, with one small chopped onion, one and one quarter teaspoonfuls of salt, and three tablespoonfuls of syou. Cover tight, and boil very slowly for one hour, adding boiling water if it dries. Serve with rice.

FRIED BEEF WITH MUSHROOMS One pound of beef; one pound of mushrooms; one small onion; six lotus seeds; two tablespoonfuls of syou; one teaspoonful of salt; one half pound of suet.

Use the upper part of the round, or rump steak, cut in small pieces (strips about two inches long). Chop up the suet and fry out all the fat, drain, and fry the beef in it good and brown. Add the onion and slice the lotus seeds. Cut up the mushrooms and turn in. Fry for about two minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of syou and salt. Cover up tight, and let it simmer for fifteen minutes. Serve with rice.

FRIED RICE WITH CHICKEN AND MUSHROOMS One pound of rice; one pound of cooked flesh of chicken; one pound of fresh white mushrooms; two stalks of celery; one onion; six water chestnuts; one tablespoonful of pork fat; two tablespoonfuls of syou; dash of cayenne pepper; one teaspoonful of salt.

Boil one pound of rice for twenty minutes. While this is boiling, prepare the following: Take one pound of cooked chicken and cut it in small pieces. Put a tablespoonful of pork fat in the pan, and when it is very hot turn in the chicken and fry for a few minutes. Then cut up two stalks of celery, one onion, and six water chestnuts, and add with the syou cayenne, and salt. Fry all for ten minutes, then place the rice in a platter and pour the above over it. Cover tight, and let it soak through the rice thoroughly. Then garnish with chopped parsley, and serve.

CHOP SUEYS

EXTRA WHITE CHOP SUEY Breast of one and one half pound chicken; one tablespoonful of chicken fat; one pound of fresh mushrooms; one half bunch of celery; one dozen water chestnuts; two white onions; one half can of bamboo shoots; two pounds of bean sprouts; one and one half teaspoonfuls of salt; two tablespoonfuls of syou.

Cut in small pieces the breast of a young chicken of about one and one half pounds. Put a tablespoonful of chicken fat in a deep frying pan, and heat very hot, then put in the chicken and fry brown, stirring to keep from burning. Have ready the following ingredients: One pound of fresh white mushrooms, cut small; half a bunch of celery, chopped; a dozen water chestnuts, peeled and cut in slices; two white onions, and half a can of bamboo shoots, all sliced. Add all these to the chicken, and cook for ten minutes. Now add two pounds of bean sprouts, and cook for another five minutes with two tablespoonfuls of syou and a dash of cayenne pepper. Simmer for five minutes longer, and serve with rice.

DUCK CHOP SUEY Three or three and one half pound duck; one tablespoonful of duck fat; one and one quarter tablespoonfuls of syou; dash of cayenne pepper; two teaspoonfuls of salt; one cup of dried mushrooms; one bunch of celery; one half cup of small white onions; one dozen lotus seeds; one can of bamboo shoots; two pounds of bean sprouts.

Carefully wash the duck and remove the bones, then wipe dry and pound the meat until tender. Then chop up about a tablespoonful of duck fat, and fry. Remove all lumps of fat, leaving only the clear oil, and put in the duck meat, cut in small pieces. Fry to a golden brown. Add one and one half tablespoonfuls of syou, a dash of cayenne pepper, and half a tablespoonful of salt. Cover, and let simmer for twenty minutes while preparing the following: Wash and soak for ten minutes one cup of dried mushrooms, pulling off all stalks and cutting small; cut up a bunch of celery small, and add a cupful of small white onions. Slice a dozen lotus seeds very thin, and half a can of bamboo shoots. Put all in with the duck and fry ten minutes; then add two pounds of bean sprouts and cook five minutes longer. Serve with rice.

GAR LU CHOP SUEY(With Chinese Dried Mushrooms) One half pound of pork; one half pound of beef; one quarter clove of garlic; one onion; one half bunch of celery; one dozen lotus seeds; one half can of bamboo shoots; one and one half pounds of bean sprouts; three tablespoonfuls of syou; one teaspoonful of salt; dash cayenne pepper.

Cut half a pound of pork (not too fat) into small pieces, and fry to a nice golden brown. Chop into small pieces half a bunch of celery, and wash and soak half a pound of Chinese dried mushrooms, discarding the stalks. Chop up one onion, and a very small piece of garlic, chopped very fine. Season with three tablespoonfuls of syou. Salt, and add a dash of cayenne. Fry for ten minutes, then add half a can of bamboo shoots and fry for five minutes longer. Lastly, add one and one half pounds of bean sprouts, and cook all together for ten minutes. Serve with rice.

GAI YUK CHEE YUK (Chicken and Pork Chop Suey) One half pound of breast of chicken; one half pound of lean pork; three tablespoonfuls of sweet lard; one half pound of mushrooms; one half bunch of celery; one dozen lotus seeds; one half can of bamboo shoots; two pounds of bean sprouts; one and one half teaspoonfuls of syou; one half teaspoonful of salt; dash of cayenne pepper.

Take half a pound of chicken cut from the breast and half a pound of lean pork, and cut both into small pieces. Heat three tablespoonfuls of sweet lard; when it is well melted, put the above meat in the fat and fry until brown, stirring to keep it from burning. Have ready the following ingredients: One half pound of fresh or dried mushrooms which have been washed in lukewarm water (if dried mushrooms are used, soak them for ten minutes and pull off the stalks), half a bunch of celery chopped small, a dozen lotus seeds or water chestnuts peeled and cut into thin slices. Cut up one onion, also half a can of bamboo shoots and two pounds of bean sprouts. Wash all well and drain in colander. Put all these, except the bean sprouts, with the meat, and cook for ten minutes; now add the bean sprouts, one and one half tablespoonfuls of syou, a dash of cayenne pepper, and salt, and cook for five minutes. Serve with rice.

CHOP SUEY (PLAIN) One and one half pounds of pork; one and one half pounds of veal; two onions; one dozen water chestnuts; one half can of bamboo shoots; two pounds of bean sprouts; three tablespoonfuls of syou; one half tablespoonful of salt.

Cut half a pound of pork in small pieces, and fry for three minutes. Cut up the veal and add it, frying for five minutes. Chop up two onions and half a bunch of celery into small pieces, slice thin a dozen water chestnuts and half a can of bamboo shoots, and turn into the pan with three tablespoonfuls of syou and half a tablespoonful of salt. Cook for ten minutes. Add the bean sprouts, and cook all together for five minutes. Serve with rice.

CHOW MAINS

MEAT CHOW MAIN One quarter pound noodles; one quart peanut oil; one half dozen water chestnuts; one half pound of pork; one half pound of veal; two tablespoonfuls of syou; one half bunch of celery; one onion; one half pound of dried mushrooms; two eggs; one quarter pound of ham.

Into a quart of peanut oil put a quarter of a pound of noodles, and cook until crisp; then remove and drain. Meanwhile take one pound of pork, cut it in small pieces, and fry a golden brown. Cut up half a pound of veal, and fry with the pork for five minutes. Add two tablespoonfuls of syou and half a tablespoonful of salt to this, and let it simmer slowly, while preparing the following: Wash, and soak for ten minutes, half a pound of Chinese dried mushrooms, pulling off the stalks; half a bunch of celery, cut small; also one onion, chopped fine, and half a dozen water chestnuts, sliced fine. Turn these in with the meat and cook all together for five minutes. Place the noodles on a hot platter as a bottom layer, then the meat and vegetables. Garnish the top with threaded ham and the crumbled yolks of two hard-boiled eggs.

CHICKEN CHOW MAIN Two eggs; one teaspoonful of salt; one quart of peanut oil; one half pound of noodles; four ounces of pork; two pounds of chopped chicken; one stalk of celery; one onion; one half pound of fresh mushrooms; one half pound of breast of chicken, shredded; three hard-boiled eggs; two tablespoonfuls of syou.

Have the peanut oil boiling hot and toss in the noodles. Fry until they are crisp, then take them from the oil and drain, while preparing the following: Take four ounces of fine chopped pork and half a pound of chicken meat, also chopped. Now add two tablespoonfuls of syou and one teaspoonful of salt. Cook all for ten minutes. Lay the noodles on a platter, forming a layer at the bottom of the dish, and place the vegetables and gravy on top of the noodles. Add a layer of the shredded chicken breast, lastly the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, crumbled, as a garnish. Serve very hot.

LOBSTER CHOW MAIN One pound of lobster meat; two eggs; one half pound of noodles; three stalks of celery; one can of bamboo shoots; one onion; one quarter pound of mushrooms; one tablespoonful of sweet lard; one quart of peanut oil; three water chestnuts.

First boil the peanut oil and into it throw the noodles, cooking until crisp. Remove and drain, while preparing following: Put teaspoon of sweet lard into frying pan, and when hot turn in half the lobster meat, which has previously been cooked. (Canned lobster will do as well.) Cook for a few minutes, then add the onion, mushrooms, and water chestnuts. The bamboo shoots are added last, and all fried for ten minutes. Take a hot platter, and place the crisp noodles as a layer at the bottom of the dish, and spread above ingredients on top. Then take the other half of the lobster meat, and place a layer on top. Garnish with shredded yolks of hard-boiled eggs.

FRIED RICE

FRIED RICE WITH HERBS Two cupfuls of boiled rice; one and one half teaspoonfuls of pork fat; three stalks of celery; one large onion; five water chestnuts; one teaspoonful of salt; dash cayenne pepper; two tablespoonfuls of syou.

Fry one large onion a light brown in one and one half tablespoonfuls of pork fat; chop up three stalks of celery very fine, and add five water chestnuts, sliced thin. Fry all a light brown, then take two cups of rice that has boiled for twenty-five minutes, or use cold rice if you have any on hand. Mix all together with salt and cayenne and syou, and fry for ten minutes, shaking and stirring constantly. Serve hot, garnished with any meat or fish, or alone. This is very tasty.

FRIED RICE WITH EGGS AND HERBS Six eggs; one half pound of rice; one quarter pound of pork, very fat; three water chestnuts; one stalk of celery; one onion; one teaspoonful of chopped parsley; one teaspoonful of salt; pinch of pepper.

First wash the rice and boil for half an hour. Cut up the pork very small, and fry brown. Add one onion, chopped fine; the three water chestnuts, sliced thin, and one stalk of celery, cut small. Salt and pepper, and fry all for ten minutes, taking care not to brown. Now turn in the rice, and fry five minutes. Meanwhile beat up six eggs, pour them over the mixture, stirring and shaking the pan constantly for five minutes, and serve hot.

FRIED RICE WITH TOMATO SAUCE One teaspoonful of chopped parsley; two cupfuls of boiled rice; four tomatoes, or half a can; one onion; one tablespoonful of fat pork; dash of cayenne.

Cut up the pork and fry brown. Put in the onion, then the tomatoes and salt and cayenne. Fry for five minutes. Turn the rice, which has previously been cooked, into the pan and fry all together for five minutes. Place on hot platter, and garnish with minced parsley and eggs, threaded. Serve very hot. Make eggs thread by beating them with a tablespoonful of water, then pour through a sieve into boiling water and use as a garnish.

OMELETTES

FOO TAY DÄN(Chinese Ham and Eggs) Six eggs; one tablespoonful of ham fat; one half cup of minced ham; one half dozen water chestnuts; one half of a small onion.

Heat one tablespoonful of ham fat very hot. Chop up half a cupful of ham meat; slice thin half a dozen water chestnuts and half a small onion. Fry all together for five minutes; then beat six eggs, turn in pan, and scramble.

FOO YUNG DÄN(Chinese Omelette with Herbs) Four eggs; one half a minced onion; four sticks of celery; four ounces of pork; one dessert-spoonful of syou; one half teaspoonful of salt.

Beat four eggs well; have ready half a minced onion and four sticks of celery, chopped very fine. Put in the frying pan four ounces of pork, chopped fine, and fry until brown. Now add the herbs, with a dessert-spoonful of syou, and finally the beaten eggs. Let the whole cook for five minutes, without touching, but be careful to keep it from burning. Fold one half over the other, and slip on the platter. Serve at once, with rice.

CHINESE SCRAMBLED EGGS One half teaspoon of sweet lard; one onion; five eggs; one teaspoonful of salt; dash of cayenne pepper or black pepper.

Put half a tablespoonful of lard in frying pan and when it is very hot toss in one onion, chopped fine, and fry to a golden brown. Break five eggs in a bowl, beat well, and turn into the pan; then keep stirring until it is done. It should all be a light golden brown. This is very good with rice.

MUSHROOM OMELETTE One tablespoonful of lard; one quarter of an onion; one half pound of fresh mushrooms; one tablespoonful of syou; four eggs; one quarter teaspoonful of salt.

Into a tablespoonful of hot, sweet lard fry quarter of an onion a light brown. Cut half a pound of fresh mushrooms very fine, and cook for five minutes. Beat four eggs with one tablespoonful of syou, and turn into pan. Cook for five minutes without touching, but keep from burning by gently shaking the pan. Fold over, or slip from pan into dish which is kept warm over a dish of hot water.

VEGETABLES

FRIED BEAN SPROUTS Into a hot iron pan put a quarter of a pound of fresh pork fat, and fry brown. Drain all water from a pound of bean sprouts, put into the hot fat, and fry uncovered for five minutes, stirring to keep from burning. Now add to the three tablespoonfuls of syou, salt, and pepper. Cover tight, and let simmer for fifteen minutes.

FRIED CABBAGE Wash and dry the cabbage, then cut in long, slender strips, and throw into a deep frying pan containing two tablespoonfuls of hot fat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and fry, stirring for five minutes, shaking the pan to keep cabbage from burning. This is very good with rice, and is used by the poor Chinese as a substitute for fish.

ENDIVE Have water boiling hot and salted. Now put in a tiny piece of washing soda. Wash the endive, throw it into boiling water, and boil slowly for ten minutes. While boiling, take one tablespoonful of olive oil and heat it. Add one tablespoonful of vinegar, a dash of cayenne, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one clove of garlic, chopped very fine. Let this all simmer for five minutes, then drain off the water, and pour out the endive, and serve.

Endive is also good cooked as follows: Place one tablespoonful of sweet lard in pan, wash endive, and fry it for five minutes. Then cover it up tight and let it simmer in its own juice for ten minutes.

CHINESE PICKELED YELLOW TURNIPS Cut the turnip in thin slices, then cut each slice in narrow strips until it looks like strands. Place in bowl and over it pour two cupfuls of vinegar, a dash of cayenne, a quarter of a clove of garlic, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and one teaspoonful of ginger, and let stand twenty-four hours before serving. To the above quantity use enough turnip for the vinegar to cover evenly.

EGG PLANT One large egg plant; two cups of vinegar; one dessert-spoonful of mixed spices; one cup of sugar.

Cut one large egg plant in slices (not too thin). Soak for two hours in cold water with a handful of salt. Then drain this off, and pour over the egg plant a little vinegar mixed with water, and let it lie in this for about half an hour. Then drain thoroughly and pour over it two cupfuls of hot vinegar with dessert-spoonful of mixed spices and one cup of sugar. Cover tight and put away for at least twenty-four hours.

BOILED AND DEVILED CUCUMBERS Peel the cucumbers, and place in salted boiling water. Boil slowly until the cucumbers become transparent. Drain off all water and serve with a sauce made of one tablespoonful of olive oil and one teaspoonful of vinegar, beaten well with a dash of cayenne and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs.

Cucumbers can also be cooked by placing one tablespoonful of oil or fat in a deep frying pan, and into this putting the washed and peeled cucumbers, rolling them about, and frying for five minutes. Cover tight, and let simmer in their own juice until transparent.

FRIED BAMBOO SHOOTS Take one can of bamboo shoots and drain off all water. Wipe the bamboo shoots dry, and slice in long thin strips. Have ready boiling peanut oil, and toss the shoots into that. Cook until crisp. Delicious. Must be eaten hot.

WATER CHESTNUT SALAD Peel and wash these little nuts, which are about the size of an ordinary chestnut. Slice very thin. Make a dressing of the following: To two tablespoonfuls of olive oil add the juice of one onion, one tablespoonful of fine vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of syou, one teaspoonful of salt, the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs crushed smooth, and half a teaspoonful of sugar. Mix all until smooth, then pour it over the water chestnuts. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

CHAR QUÄ(Chinese Artichokes) Six char quars; one teaspoonful of olive oil; one tablespoonful of Quong Sang Chong; two tablespoonfuls of syou; two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley; yolks of two hard-boiled eggs.

These little vegetables are peculiar to China, but are also grown very successfully on Long Island by the Chinese farmers. They have a very delicate flavor, and cooked the following way are very delicious, as well as extremely attractive. First wash thoroughly in cold water, then turn them into boiling salted water and boil about twenty minutes, meanwhile preparing the following sauce: Mix one teaspoonful of olive oil with one tablespoonful of Quong Sang Chong (water chestnut flour) until very smooth, then pour enough boiling water over it to make a thick cream. Add one teaspoonful of syou, and let it just come to a boil, stirring in the chopped parsley gently. Arrange the artichokes on a small platter with green lining, or place a green leaf under each artichoke. Fill the center of each with the yolks of hard-boiled egg, whipped smooth with a little olive oil and salt. Lastly, pour the sauce over, and serve. This should look like a water lily.

CHINESE FRIED PEAS(Used by Children as Salted Peanuts are Used in America) Put a teaspoonful of peanut oil in the frying pan, taking care to have one with a long handle, as the peas may pop. Toss a pint of yellow whole peas in the pan, and shake the pan while the peas roll about and turn a light brown. Chinese children make little cornucopia paper bags into which to put these peas and eat them like nuts.

PUMPKIN AND YELLOW SEEDS Remove large seeds and spread them on paper. Sprinkle with salt, and bake them until dry.

FRIED NOODLES Have about two quarts of boiling peanut oil. Throw in the noodles and fry a golden brown. Remove from oil, and drain off all fat by laying noodles on bit of paper.

CAKES

ALMOND CAKES Two cupfuls of rice flour; one quarter cupful of almond oil; one half cupful of chopped almonds; one and one half cupfuls of powdered sugar; two eggs.

Mix thoroughly two cupfuls of rice flour, one and one half cupfuls of powdered sugar, and half a cupful of blanched almonds, chopped very fine, with a quarter of a cupful of almond oil. Moisten with two beaten eggs. Use no water, and if too stiff, add more egg. Roll about quarter of an inch thick, and cut in fanciful shapes. Place half an almond in the center of each cake, and bake them for one hour in a moderate oven. These cakes are certain to keep for a long time if they are placed in a tin box.

GUM LU(Golden Cakes) One and one half cupfuls of rice flour; one cupful of honey; one quarter cupful of mixed nuts, chopped; three teaspoonfuls of clarified goose fat; yolks of two eggs; pinch of salt.

Take one and one half cupfuls of rice flour and a pinch of salt and into this work three teaspoonfuls of clarified goose fat. Then chop very fine about quarter of a cup of minced nuts. Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix all together. Now pour in one cup of raw, dark honey. If too moist, add more flour. Stir thoroughly for fifteen or twenty minutes, and pour into small cake pans, well oiled, and bake slowly for two hours.

LAI YUT(Beautiful Moon Tarts) Two cupfuls of rice flour; one tablespoonful of clarified goose fat; two eggs.

These tarts are a sort of dumpling. Work a heaping tablespoonful of clarified goose fat into two cups of rice flour. Add ice-cold water slowly to make a stiff paste. Roll out, brush with the whipped whites of eggs, and fold over several times, each time brushing with egg; then roll about quarter of an inch thick and cut into rounds about the size of a small saucer. Put in the filling, and place another round of paste on top. Press together at the edge, forming a rounded edge, and brush all again with white of egg. Bake for fifty minutes in a moderate oven, then remove the outer flake, which will leave the tart snow white. Decorate with a yellow moon in the center, cut from candied orange peel or painted with fruit coloring.

Filling: Two cups of lychee nuts, stoned and mashed to a pulp, one and one half cupfuls of sugar, quarter of a cupful of crystallized limes, and a teaspoonful of mixed spices. Mix all well together, and use to fill tart.

Another filling: Quarter of a pound of beef fat, cut in small pieces, one cupful of chopped dates, one cupful of preserved pineapple, quarter of a cupful of blanched chopped almonds, one and one half cupfuls of sugar, and one teaspoonful of mixed spices. Mix thoroughly.

PART IIJAPANESE RECIPES

SOUPS

SATSUMA SOUP One small chicken; one medium-sized carrot; one pint of satorius (elephant-ear plant); two white radishes; one quarter pound of dried mushrooms; one quarter pound of aburage (oil-fried Tofu); one quarter pound of miso paste (soy bean and rice cheese); one half teaspoonful of mixed red-pepper spices.

To prepare the chicken, separate the meat from the bones; then put bonesincold water and boil slowly for about two hours. Strain, and add the well-chopped vegetables. (The mushrooms should have been washed, and soaked in lukewarm water for ten minutes previously.) Boil for one more hour, then add the chicken meat, cut in very small pieces, salt, spices, and half a teaspoonful of sugar. Cook all slowly for one hour. This makes about three pints of soup. It is better to make it the day before it is to be used. Soup is always improved by standing over night. The late Mikado took three or four sips of this soup for breakfast.

TORI SHIRU(Chicken Soup) Two pound chicken (not necessarily young); one half pound of egg noodles; one half cupful syou sauce; one quarter pound of white mushrooms; one half dozen water chestnuts; salt, pepper, and sugar.

Thoroughly clean and singe the chicken, and scald feet to peel off scabs or skin. Cut giblets in small pieces and the chicken in about six pieces, and cover with three quarts of cold water. Boil all for about three hours, according to the age of the chicken. While it is boiling wash and cut up the vegetables. Now make the egg noodles of flour and eggs and roll as thin as paper on a floured board, then cut in shapes of flowers (chrysanthemums, the Japanese prefer), and leave spread out on the board to dry. Drain all soup from the bones and bring to a boil. Add vegetables, salt, pepper, and one teaspoonful of sugar; also the syou sauce. Boil all for half an hour, then throw in the noodles and cook for ten minutes. Serve each bowl of soup with one large noodle flower on top.

UWO SHIRU (Fish Soup) One and one half pounds of fish (any kind); one quarter pound of fat pork; one pound of miso paste (bean and rice paste); one half cupful of syou sauce; one cupful of cooking juice sauce; one small carrot; two onions; three hard-boiled eggs; two tablespoonfuls of cooked, chopped ham; pepper, salt, sugar, and spices.

To make this soup, any fish of the milder variety can be used, such as cod, haddock, or bass; lobster and shrimps are also good cooked this way. Have the pork cut into small pieces, and fry a golden brown; then wash the fish and take out all bones, chop up into small pieces, add to the pork, and fry for a few minutes. Have ready all the vegetables, cleaned and grated, and put into the pot with the syou and cooking juice, salt, pepper, and spices. Let it come to a boil, then add the miso paste, mixed with a pint and a half of boiling water. Stir all well together, and boil for one hour, adding boiling water if it cooks away. Strain into soup bowls, and serve with slices of hard-boiled eggs, sprinkled with chopped parsley and grated ham.

FISH

MUSHI KUJIRA(Boiled Whale or Bass) Two pounds of fish; one half teacupful of syou; orange and lemon skin; two long, large radishes; two tablespoonfuls of vinegar; salt, and dash of cayenne pepper.

Take off all bones and slice the fish daintily in long slices, and then in half-inch dice. Sprinkle with salt, and leave for about fifteen minutes. Cut radishes in long, even, delicate strips. Boil for a few minutes, strain, then add half a cupful of syou sauce and two tablespoonfuls of a fine vinegar. When it boils, drop in the fish slices. Boil up, then push to back of range, and, covered tight, let it simmer for half an hour. Grate the peels of half a lemon and half an orange, and sprinkle over the fish, after having removed it to a hot platter. Serve with boiled rice.

NOTE. This dish comes from Nagasaki, and is really a Japanized Chinese dish. Japanese cooking of fish greatly resembles that of the Chinese.

TEMBANI OF MACKEREL(Fish Delicacy) One good-sized mackerel; one fresh radish; one cupful of syou sauce; vinegar; orange or lemon peel; one half cupful of cooking juice.

Clean the fish, and remove all bones. Cut into half-inch dice, sprinkle with salt, and let stand for about half an hour. Wash the radish and cut into thin pieces, then throw it into the salted, boiling water. Boil for about five minutes, then strain off all water and add half a cupful of syou sauce and the same amount of cooking juice. Let all boil up, then add the fish and let it simmer for about twenty-five minutes. Remove from the fire, and before serving add a tablespoonful of vinegar. Place on a hot platter, and sprinkle with grated lemon or orange peel. Serve with boiled rice.

ONIGARA YAKI(Broiled Lobster) One lobster; syou sauce; salt and pepper; powdered sanshi spice.

Wash the lobster carefully in cold water. Place in boiling, salted water, and boil very slowly for one hour. Remove from the saucepan, and immediately throw into cold water. Cut in two pieces lengthwise, and dip each half in syou sauce. Place upon gridiron, and toast well both back and front, taking minute care not to blacken skin and fins. Once again cover with syou sauce, sprinkle with sanshi spice and pepper, and serve.

NOTE: Sanshi spice is made from the seeds that grow on the sanshi tree in Japan.

YAKI ZAKANA (Fried Fish) For any small fish. Wash the fish and scale it if necessary, removing all fins. Rub well with salt. Have ready a deep iron pot and use peanut or goma-seed oil, or, if preferred, olive oil. Do not have too much oil in pan, but only enough to prevent burning. Lay the fish in the pan, but do not crowd one on top of another; fry a light brown, being careful in turning not to break the fish. Have ready oil-fried Tofu, and place each fish on a cake of about the length of the fish. Sprinkle with grated lemon peel, and serve with rice, very hot.

NOTE: Tofu is made from a mixture of syou bean and rice. It is mashed and rolled into a thin cake, and fried in oil, very much like pancakes.

JAPANESE FISH BALLS Take any boiled fish, cold, and mix with rice, boiled to a paste. Roll in flour to balls the size of large marbles; toss into boiling goma-seed oil, and fry a golden brown.

POULTRY AND GAME

YAKI UDZURA(Broiled Quail or Pigeons) Quail (or pigeons); mushrooms; aburage (bean cheese paste) Tofu; olive oil; parsley.

Prepare the quail or pigeons the day before using by washing and singeing and rubbing with salt, then put them away in cool place. Next day take half a pound of aburage, and fry the Tofu cakes in oil. Set in warm place to drain off the oil while toasting the birds. Dip the birds in olive oil, then in dry flour, and toast over a red-hot fire, turning quickly until they are a crisp brown. Place each bird, or half of a bird, if it is a pigeon, on the fried Tofu, and have some white mushrooms which have been fried in oil, placed around the birds. Then sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve very hot.

SHIKA SHIRO(Pot-roasted Venison) Three pounds of venison steak; one cupful of syou sauce; one cupful of vinegar; two tablespoonfuls of sugar; one quarter pound of fresh pork (fat); one quarter pound of miso paste; one onion.

Place the meat in an earthenware bowl and cover with one cup of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the same amount of salt, one tablespoonful of mixed spices, and one onion, sliced. Cover, and put away to pickle for two or three days in a cool place. When ready to cook, remove meat from the juices, cut up the pork in small strips, and fry a light brown in deep iron pan. Add the venison meat, and fry well on both sides until brown, taking care not to burn it. Add the syou sauce, cover tight, and let simmer for one hour, or two, if necessary. Mix the miso paste with a little cold water, and stir it until it thickens. Remove the platter, and garnish with slices of lemon sprinkled with chopped parsley.

FRIED SQUAB Take very small squabs, clean them, and rub dry. Separate the legs and wings, and cut the body into small pieces. Toss into boiling peanut oil, and cook until crisp. Remove, drain off oil, and serve on fried Tofu.

HATO SHIRO(Stewed Pigeon) Two good-sized pigeons; one cupful of syou sauce; one half cupful of mirin sauce or sherry; one tablespoonful of sugar; one small onion; two tablespoonfuls of kudze starch; one quarter pound of fat fresh pork; one dozen water chestnuts; one quarter pound of bamboo shoots; salt and pepper.

Select good, plump pigeons and singe and clean thoroughly, then dry. Rub well with salt. Take the fat pork and fry out all the fat, and when boiling hot put in the pigeons and brown all over, rolling them on all sides. Have ready the water chestnuts; washed and cut in thin slices, also the bamboo shoots cut in thin strips. Chop up the onion very fine, and turn into the saucepan with the pigeons, adding the syou sauce, pepper, salt, and sugar. Cover very tight, and simmer over a slow fire for one hour. Then add the mirin sauce, or sherry. Lastly, mix two tablespoonfuls of kudzu starch in cold water, and stir into the juice until it thickens. Serve with rice.

MUSHI KIJI (Roast Pheasant) One good pheasant; one pound of small Japanese almonds; one and one half cupfuls of rice paste (comes prepared); three cupfuls of mirin sauce; one half cupful of cooking sauce; one tablespoonful of sugar; salt, pepper, and mixed spices; oil.

Wash and singe the bird, then rub well with salt. Place in deep dish and cover with three cupfuls of mirin sauce; more, if that quantity does not cover the bird. Lay away in a cool place over night, then drain off all liquid and have ready the almonds, blanched and chopped very fine. Add them to the rice paste with the sugar, a little salt, quarter of a cup of cooking sauce, and a pinch of mixed spices. Stir all together, and stuff the pheasant with this mixture. Sew up, and truss. Have ready boiling hot olive oil or goma-seed oil, pour it over the pheasant, and place in a hot oven. Roast until tender (about one hour), adding little by little the rest of the cooking sauce, and basting frequently. Cook for a half-hour longer, then place on hot platter and garnish with flower petals and water cress.

USAGI AMAI-SUI(Hare, Sweet and Sour) One good-sized rabbit or hare; one cupful of vinegar; one cupful of syou sauce; one tablespoonful of salt; three tablespoonfuls of sugar; one half cupful of mirin sauce; one tablespoonful of mixed spices; one half pound of fat fresh pork; one dozen red plums; one small lime or lemon.

Take a small hare or large rabbit that has been hanging for at least two days, and after it has been skinned, and the insides removed, wash well in cold water. Cut in quarters and put in a deep dish, covering it well with the vinegar, sugar, salt, and so on, mixed with water. Add the spices also, and a quarter of a cupful of mirin sauce. Cover up well, and let it pickle in a cool place for two or three days; then remove it from the liquid and cut in small pieces. Have ready the fat pork cut in small pieces, and fry. Toss in the hare, and brown. Now have ready a covered China cook dish or casserole, and place in it the hare and pork, adding the syou sauce, a pinch of salt, pinch of the spices, and the quarter cupful of mirin sauce. Cover up tightly, and cook in a slow oven for one hour. Then prepare a dozen large red plums, removing the stones, and add them. Dissolve one teaspoonful of Kanton (Japanese gelatine) and mix with the gravy, taking care not to break the plums. Cook for another five minutes, then place on a hot platter, decorated with slices of lemon or limes, with a plum placed on top of each slice. This is good served either with white-bean cakes or rice.

MUSHI AHIRU(Baked Duck) Clean and singe the duck and wash in lukewarm water, then wipe dry with a clean cloth. Rub well with salt. Cut in pieces, and dip each piece of the duck in a batter made of kudzu starch and eggs. Make the batter of about the thickness of fritters. Lay these in a pan that has been oiled, and bake in a slow oven for two hours. Make a gravy by chopping the giblets very fine and putting them in a pot with a cupful of water, a cupful of syou sauce, salt and pepper, and a teaspoonful of sugar. Boil slowly while the duck is baking. Place the duck, which should be well browned, on a platter, then pour over it the gravy and garnish with orange or lemon peel, grated.

ROAST CHICKEN(Japanese Style) Take a young, tender chicken and clean and singe. Put the feet to boil until the scabs scale off, then place with the giblets to boil slowly. Make a stuffing of rice boiled dry in chicken gravy, add chopped onion and a pinch of mixed spices, salt, pepper, and a dash of cayenne. Put this in body of chicken and sew up. Roast for an hour, or longer, according to age of chicken. Make a gravy from the stock of the giblets. Chop the giblets up fine and add to the gravy. Serve with roasted sweet potatoes.

OMELETTES AND CUSTARDS

UNOHANA YAKI(Flower Custard) Two ounces of Kanton (Japanese gelatine); six eggs; three tablespoonfuls of cherry sirup; one ounce of goma seeds.

To make the pink custards, whip the whites of five eggs into the dissolved two ounces of gelatine. Add, while stirring over a slow fire, three tablespoonfuls of cherry sirup. Let it come to a boil, then pour quickly into flower-shaped molds, and let it set.

Yellow custards can be made by using the yolks instead of the whites of eggs, and half a pint of coconut milk. When the custards are solid, turn them from the molds on to large leaves on a plate, or decorate the flowered custard with leaves suitable to the flower represented. If the flower has a dark center, use goma seeds, and if variegated colors are liked, pour half the yellow and half the cherry custards into the molds. The effect is very pretty, and the custards delicious. The pouring should be done very quickly and lightly, and the molds, of course, should be of flower designs. All travelers are enthusiasts on the subject of Japanese flower custards.

KINOKO-TAMAGO-YAKI(Shrimp Omelette) Four eggs; one half cupful of shrimp meat; one half cupful of syou sauce;goma-seed oil.

Beat up the eggs with half a cupful of syou. Have ready about four or five small frying pans. Wipe pans when hot with paper soaked in goma-seed oil. Pour into each pan an equal quantity of the egg, and quickly divide and scatter in the shrimp meat, which has been finely chopped. Fry all slowly for four minutes. The Japanese brown both sides at once, by putting some burning charcoal into a tin plate and laying this on top of the omelette on the stove. The omelette should be served very hot, and for this purpose there are special omelette dishes, Chinese and Japanese, the lower part of which is a hot water holder.

USU TAMAGO YAKI(Fried Eggs) One half dozen eggs; one cupful of cooking juice; two tablespoonfuls of syou sauce.

Beat the eggs with chopsticks, adding the cooking sauce and syou. Mix all well. Wipe a frying pan with paper soaked with goma-seed oil, and as soon as pan is well heated, pour in the above mixture and fry over a slow fire.

TAMAGO TOFU Eggs; cooking juice; syou sauce; horseradish.

Break any required number of eggs and beat with chopsticks. Mix with twice the amount of cooking juice and one third of syou sauce. Pour the mixture into a thin china bowl or a tin mold, and steam over boiling water for thirty or forty minutes. Transfer a soupladleful to each individual bowl, and over each pour a small quantity of cookingjuice and a few drops of syou sauce. Sprinkle with ground horseradish, and serve very hot.

SCRAMBLED EGGS(Japanese Style) Eggs;green pepper; cold boiled rice; mushrooms.

Break into frying pan half a dozen eggs, stirring lightly with knife. Add quickly, before egg begins to cook, a tablespoonful of chopped green pepper, the juice of an onion, half a cupful of chopped mushrooms, and half a cupful of boiled rice.Toss all quickly together. Cook over a very slow fire, and serve hot.

SAKURA(Cherry Custard) Beat up lightly and frothily six fresh eggs. Add one cupful of milk, sugar, and three tablespoonfuls of cherry sirup. Throw a handful of ripe, plump red cherries into the baking pan, and over this pour the above mixture. Bake for about half an hour in a medium oven. Then remove, and at intervals over top of dish set more cherries. Sugar is unnecessary where the cherries are sweet and ripe, as the sirup will then suffice.

TAMAGO BOLAN(Peony Eggs) Boil five eggs hard. Place in cold water. Remove shells carefully, so as not to blemish whites. Carefully cut off top with thread, one end between teeth, the other between fingers, drawing thread through egg. Remove the yolks. Boil a small pink snapper (fish) in hot water for ten minutes, or steam for thirty. Remove all bones and fins, and chop together until fine. Mix with finely mashed miso, pepper, and salt. Chop yolks daintily and fluffily, and mix with fish meat. Fill the whites with this mixture. Now place the filled whites in center of a lettuce head and arrange fine strips of udo shoots round it. To fix lettuce head properly, all the leaves should be carefully adjusted and separated, washed, and then put back into shape again. It looks now like a bouquet, and is held together with toothpicks.

VEGETABLES AND RELISHES

KUWAI-KINTON(Water Chestnut Cream) Fifteen large water chestnuts; three quarters pound of sweet potatoes; three tablespoonfuls of vinegar; three quarters pound of sugar; one half pint of mirin sauce.

Peel the skin from fifteen large water chestnuts and slice them very thin. Boil in lukewarm water for about fifteen minutes. Peel the sweet potatoes, cut in slices, and dip in ice-cold water three or four times, changing the water with each dipping. Boil about one quart in an enameled saucepan, add the vinegar, then throw in the sweet potatoes. Cover, and boil for about twenty minutes; then, if tender, drain off all the water and add the sugar, with five tablespoonfuls of warm water and also the mirin sauce. Add a pinch of salt. Then place over the fire and add the above prepared water chestnuts. When the water chestnuts have thoroughly absorbed the juice, add the strained sweet potatoes, stir with wooden spoon, taking care not to burn it, and boil until it is firm. Serve hot or cold--it is better hot.

MUSHI TAMANA AND BUTA(Cabbage and Pork) One good-sized hard cabbage; one cupful of syou sauce; one tablespoonful of sugar; one pound of salt pork; one onion; salt and pepper.

First boil the salt pork for one hour, then chop it in small pieces. Select a good hard cabbage without blemishes and wash it thoroughly in co