Title: The Complete Confectioner, Pastry-Cook, and Baker...
Author: Parkinson
Publisher: Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott & Co.
View page [title page]
THE
COMPLETE
CONFECTIONER,
PASTRY-COOK. AND BAKER.
PLAIN AND PRACTICAL
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING
CONFECTIONARY AND PASTRY,
AND FOR BAKING;
WITH UPWARDS OF FIVE HUNDRED RECEIPTS:
CONSISTING OF
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL SORTS OF PRESERVES,
SUGAR-BOILING, COMFITS, LOZENGES,
ORNAMENTAL CAKES,
ICES LIQUEURS, WATERS, GUM-PASTE ORNAMENTS
SYRUPS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, COMPOTES,
BREAD-BAKING,
ARTIFICIAL YEASTS, FANCY BISCUITS,
CAKES, ROLLS, MUFFINS, TARTS, PIES, &c. &c.
>
WITH ADDITIONS AND ALTERATIONS,
BY PARKINSON,
Practical Confectioner, Chestnut Street.
J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO.
1864.
View page [copyright statement]
Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by
W. A. LEARY.
in the clerk's office of the district court of the United States in and the eastern district of Pennsylvania.
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>
PREFACE
TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.
ALMOST every foreigner who visits this country remarks with astonishment the almost universal neglect of that art upon which, more than any thing else, depends the health and comfort of a people; and by many scientific men have most of the prevalent diseases of this country, especially the dyspepsia, been ascribed to the hurried, crude and unwholesome manner in which our food is prepared; of latter years, more attention has been paid to cooking; but the handmaiden of that parent art, confectionary, is still neglected and unknown, yet it is of little less importance than the graver branch referred to. Confectionary is the poetry of epicurism it throws over the heavy enjoyments of the table the relief of a milder indulgence, and dispenses the delights of a lighter and more harmless gratification of the appetite. The dessert, properly prepared, contributes equally to health and comfort; but "got up" as confectionary too often is, it is not only distasteful to a correct palate, but is deleterious and often actually poisonous.
In introducing to the American public the modes by which the table of hospitality may be enriched and
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adorned, we have consulted every authority, French or English, within our reach; but the basis of our little work is to be found in Read's Confectioner, a late London publication.
Having for many years been connected with the oldest, most extensive and successful confectionary establishment in the country, we have been enabled to make from our own experience many important modifications and to introduce many additional receipts, particularly in relation to the various articles of luxury which the bounty of our soil and climate render almost exclusively American.
The volume has thus been increased in size, and we trust improved in value.
Trusting that our efforts to advance the popular knowledge of the art which has for many years engaged our attention, may meet with approbation, we present the result of our labours to a candid and indulgent public.
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>
PREFACE
TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.
MUCH as there has been written in Cookery Books on the art of Confectionary, there are few, very few works on the subject now extant which are practically written, and these are difficult to be obtained, even at high prices; and, having been published some years since, they do not contain any of the modern improvements, or articles which have been introduced within these few years. The object of the present Treatise is to supply this deficiency, and to convey instruction in as plain and concise a manner as possible to the inexperienced, or young apprentices, that they may be enabled to learn their business more efficiently than many masters can or will instruct them in it.
The style and character of the present work will be found quite different from anything which has preceded it. In the part relating to Sugar-boiling I have endeavoured to show the causes of the effects which take place at the different stages, with the uses to which each of the processes is applied. The deficiency on Hard Confectionary which occurs in all other works will be found amply supplied in this. In the proportions for medicated lozenges I have preferred those pharmacopœias to those used by the trade, as being more likely to contain the true quantities of the different drugs which should compose them. It is from this source that they were originally derived, as at one time they formed no inconsiderable part of pharmacy; but they are now only made by confectioners.
The Section on Ices I have endeavoured to render as plain and intelligible as possible, and although I have given general as well as definite rules for the mixture of each sort, yet the last cannot at all times be implicitly followed, but must be modified or altered with respect to the flavouring matter so as to suit the taste of the employer or the parties for whom they are intended; this should always be most scrupulously attended to, if it is wished to give satisfaction as no fixed rules can be given which will admit of their being made to please all persons.
The business of confectionary is divided into several branches, some of them being quite distinct and separate from each other. The branch known as Hard Confectionary is literally the whole of the business, according to the strict meaning of the word, which is derived from the French words confitures--comfits, things crusted
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over with dry sugar; and confiturier--confectioner, a maker or seller of comfits or other sweetmeats. The other branches are the Ornamental and Soft Confectionary. The latter relates to everything connected with the oven, or all sorts of cakes and soft biscuits, and more particularly to the preservation of fruits; the other, as the name implies, to every description of ornaments necessary for the decoration of the table. Hard Confectionary still remains a distinct branch or trade of itself; in fact, many persons' sole occupation is the making of lozenges and comfits, termed pan-work. Some also combine with these the different articles connected with sugar-boiling and preserving. The latter are in general blended together, and mostly practised by cooks and pastry-cooks; but the chief business of a confectioner is alone connected with the ornamental department, and everything necessary for the dessert.
I have thought it requisite to mention this specifically, so as to prevent the occurrence of errors which parents and guardians of families often fall into respecting the nature of the business, and also with regard to the capacity of the child which they intend should be brought up to it. I have heard many say, "Never mind; he is a stupid fool, and may do very well to make cakes." If making cakes were the sole object he would have to accomplish, perhaps he might do very well; but even this requires more ingenuity than is generally considered; and if the welfare of the child is studied, so as to enable him to obtain his livelihood in a respectable manner, they must find some means of enabling him to acquire a considerable deal more knowledge than is general with a common-place education, to enable him to compete with the talent at present in the labour-market. The person adapted for this business should be neat and cleanly in his habits, of a lively and ingenious mind, have a quick conception of design, a delicate taste, with a general knowledge of architecture, mythology, and the fine arts; for they are as requisite in the construction of a Pièce Montée, or an allegorical subject to embellish the table, as to an architect or sculptor in the construction of an expensive building or monument. I do not mean to infer that his information must be so extensive, or that he will be required to make the tour of Italy, Rome, and Greece, to study the original masters; but let him take Nature for his guide; and if he possess the rudiments or principles of the art of design, he cannot fail, with a little attention and perseverance, to become an adept in the higher or ornamental branches of his business.
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> CONTENTS.
> THE CONFECTIONER.
Clarification of Raw Sugar...............................13
To clarify Loaf Sugar....................................14
Degrees of boiling Sugar.................................14
SYRUP....................................................15
Small Thread........................................15
Large Thread........................................15
Little Pearl........................................15
Large Pearl.........................................15
CRYSTALLIZATION..........................................15
To ascertain the degree of the blow.................16
The Feather.........................................16
CANDY....................................................16
The Ball............................................17
The Crack...........................................17
Caramel.............................................17
General Rules and Observations...........................18
Infusions................................................18
Decoctions...............................................19
Raspberry Syrup..........................................20
Pine-apple Syrup.........................................20
Raspberry Vinegar Syrup..................................20
Strawberry Syrup.........................................21
Currant Syrup............................................21
Morello Cherry Syrup.....................................21
Mulberry Syrup...........................................21
Gooseberry Syrup.........................................21
Lemon Syrup..............................................21
Orange Syrup.............................................21
Orange-Flower Syrup......................................21
Sirop de Capillaire.--Syrup of Maidenhair................21
Syrup of Liquorice.......................................22
Syrup of Violets.........................................22
Syrup of Pinks...........................................22
Syrup of Wormwood........................................23
Syrup of Marshmallows....................................23
Syrup of Sarsaparilla....................................23
Syrup of Coltsfoot.......................................23
Syrup of Ginger..........................................23
Syrup of Almonds.........................................24
Sirop de Pistache........................................24
Syrup of Coffee..........................................24
Syrup of Rum Punch.......................................24
Brandy and Wine Syrups...................................24
Crystallized or Candied Sugar............................25
Fruits to Crystallize....................................25
Crystallized Chocolate...................................26
Liqueur Rings, Drops and other Devices...................26
To form a Chain with Liqueur Rings.......................27
Ginger Candy.............................................27
Peppermint, Lemon and Rose Candy.........................27
Coltsfoot or Horehound Candy.............................27
Artificial Fruits, Eggs, &c..............................27
Burnt Almonds............................................28
Burnt Almonds-Red........................................28
Filberts and Pistachios..................................28
Common Burnt Almonds.....................................28
Orange Prawlings.........................................29
Lemon Prawlings..........................................29
Barley Sugar.............................................29
Barley Sugar Drops.......................................29
Barley Sugar Tablets or Kisses...........................29
Acid Drops and Sticks....................................30
To extract the Acid from Candied Drops, &c...............30
Raspberry Candy..........................................31
Clove, Ginger, or Peppermint Candy.......................31
Brandy Balls, &c.........................................31
Nogat....................................................32
Almond Rock..............................................32
Almond Hardbake..........................................32
To make a Silver Web.....................................33
To make a Gold Web.......................................33
Chantilly Baskets........................................33
Grape, Orange, or Cherry Baskets.........................34
Almond Baskets...........................................34
Spanish Candy............................................34
Vases or Baskets, &c., in Spanish Candy..................34
Cacao Nuts...............................................35
Roasting.................................................35
The Making of Chocolate..................................36
Vanilla Chocolate........................................36
Cinnamon, Mace, or Clove Chocolate.......................37
Stomachic Chocolate......................................37
Chocolate Harlequin Pistachios...........................37
Chocolate Drops, with Nonpareils.........................37
Peppermint, No. 1........................................38
Peppermint, No. 2........................................38
Peppermint, Nos. 3 and 4.................................38
Transparent Mint, No. 5..................................38
Superfine Transparent Mint Lozenges......................39
Rose Lozenges............................................39
Cinnamon Lozenges........................................39
Clove Lozenges...........................................39
Lavender Lozenges........................................39
Ginger Lozenges..........................................39
Nutmeg Lozenges..........................................39
Rhubarb Lozenges.........................................39
Sulphur Lozenges.........................................39
Tolu Lozenges............................................39
Ipecacuanha Lozenges.....................................39
Saffron Lozenges.........................................40
Yellow Pectoral Lozenges.................................40
Lozenges for the Heartburn...............................40
Steel Lozenges...........................................40
Magnesia Lozenges........................................40
Nitre Lozenges...........................................40
Marshmallow Lozenges.....................................40
Vanilla Lozenges.........................................40
Catechu Lozenges.........................................40
Catechu á l'Ambergris.............................40
Catechu with Musk........................................40
Catechu with Orange-flowers..............................40
Catechu with Violets.....................................40
Ching's Yellow Worm Lozenges.............................40
Ching's Brown Worm Lozenges..............................41
Bath Pipe................................................41
Peppermint or other Pipes................................41
Brilliants...............................................41
Refined Liquorice........................................41
Chocolate Drops..........................................42
Coffee Drops.............................................42
Cinnamon Drops...........................................43
Clove Drops..............................................43
Vanilla Drops............................................43
Violet Drops.............................................43
Catechu Drops............................................43
Ginger Drops.............................................43
Lemon Drops..............................................43
Rose Drops...............................................43
Peppermint Drops.........................................43
Orange-flower Drops......................................43
Orgeat Drops.............................................43
Raspberry Drops..........................................43
Scotch Caraway Comfits...................................44
Bath Caraways............................................45
Common Caraways..........................................45
Cinnamon Comfits.........................................45
Coriander Comfits........................................46
Celery Comfits...........................................46
Caraway Comfits, pearled.................................46
Almond Comfits...........................................46
Cardamom Comfits.........................................46
Barberry Comfits.........................................46
Cherry Comfits...........................................47
Comfits flavoured with Liqueurs..........................47
Orange Comfits...........................................47
Lemon Peel or Angelica...................................47
Nonpareils...............................................47
To colour Nonpareils or Comfits..........................47
Raspberry Comfits........................................47
Ginger Comfits...........................................47
Clove Comfits............................................48
To colour Loaf-sugar Dust................................48
Apple Jelly..............................................48
Quince Jelly.............................................48
Red Currant Jelly........................................48
White and Black Currant Jelly............................49
Violet-coloured Currant Jelly............................49
Cherry Jelly.............................................49
Barberry Jelly...........................................49
Raspberry Jelly..........................................49
Gooseberry Jelly.........................................49
Blackberry Jelly.........................................49
Apple Marmalade..........................................50
Quince Marmalade.........................................50
Apricot Marmalade or Jam.................................50
Cherry Marmalade or Jam..................................50
Orange Marmalade.........................................50
Grape Marmalade..........................................50
Fruit Pastes and Cakes...................................51
Apple or Pippin Cakes....................................51
Apple Cheese.............................................51
Apricot Paste............................................51
Green Apricot Paste......................................52
Currant Paste............................................52
Black Currant Paste......................................52
Raspberry Paste..........................................52
Cherry Paste.............................................52
Peach Paste..............................................52
Plum Paste...............................................52
Damson Cheese............................................52
Quince Paste.............................................53
Orange Paste.............................................53
Lemon Paste..............................................53
Raspberry Cakes..........................................53
Clear Cakes, or Jelly Cakes..............................53
Marshmallow Paste........................................54
Arabic Paste.............................................54
Date Paste...............................................55
Jujube Paste.............................................55
Senegal Paste............................................55
White Liquorice Paste....................................55
Black Liquorice Paste....................................55
Jujube Gum...............................................55
Gomme des Dattes.........................................56
Gum of Violets...........................................56
Almond Paste-Orgeat Paste................................56
WET FRUITS...............................................56
Green Apricots, wet......................................57
Green Apricots, pared wet................................58
Ripe Apricots wet........................................58
Ripe Peaches, whole, wet.................................58
Ripe Nectarines, wet.....................................58
Figs, wet................................................58
Greengages, wet..........................................58
Mogul Plums..............................................59
Damsons, wet.............................................59
Green Gooseberries, wet..................................59
Green Gooseberries in the form of Hops, wet..............59
Cucumbers or Gherkins, wet...............................59
Green Melons.............................................60
Ripe Melons, wet.........................................60
Lemons, whole, wet.......................................60
Oranges, whole ,wet......................................60
Whole Orange Peels.......................................60
Orange or Lemon Peels, wet...............................60
Orange or Lemon Chips....................................61
Angelica, wet............................................61
Eringo Root..............................................61
Pine Apple, whole, wet...................................61
Pine Apple Chips or Slices...............................61
Cherries, wet or dry.....................................62
Whole Cherries...........................................62
Grapes in Bunches........................................62
Currants in Bunches, wet.................................62
Barberries in Bunches, wet...............................63
Raspberries, whole, wet..................................63
Pears, whole, wet........................................63
Pears, Red, wet..........................................63
Quinces, Red or White, wet...............................64
Ginger, wet..............................................64
Candied Fruit............................................64
Dried Fruit..............................................64
Green Apricot Compote....................................65
Ripe Apricot Compote.....................................65
Compote of Apples, with Jelly............................65
Apple Compote............................................65
Grape Compote............................................65
Currant Compote..........................................65
Raspberry Compote........................................66
Strawberry Compote.......................................66
Macedoine of Fruits......................................66
Cherry Compote...........................................66
SECT. XV.--Brandy Fruits.................................66
SECT. XVI.--On Bottled Fruits, or Fruits Preserved without
Sugar...............................................67
Gooseberry, Currant, Raspberry, and Strawberry Waters....68
Cherry Water.............................................69
Apricot and Peach Water..................................69
Orgeat Water.............................................69
Lemonade.................................................69
Orangeade................................................69
To freeze Ices...........................................70
Cream Ices...............................................72
Raspberry, fresh fruit and Jam...........................72
Strawberry...............................................73
Currant, fresh & preserved fruit.........................73
Barberry Ice.............................................73
Apricot, fresh Fruit, and Jam............................73
Peach Ice................................................73
Pine Apple, fresh & preserved ft.........................73
Ginger Ice...............................................73
Brahma Ice...............................................73
Orange Ice Cream.........................................73
China Orange Ice Cream...................................74
Cherry Ice Cream.........................................74
Harlequin Ice............................................74
Lemon Ice Cream..........................................74
Mille Fruit Ice Cream....................................74
Custard Ices.............................................74
Custard for Ices.........................................74
Plombiere Ice, or Swiss Pudding..........................74
The Sauce................................................75
Almond or Orgeat Ice Cream...............................75
Pistachio Ice Cream......................................75
Filbert Ice Cream........................................75
Chestnut Ice.............................................75
Burnt Filbert Ice Cream..................................75
Burnt Almond Ice Cream...................................75
Coffee Ice Cream.........................................75
Chocolate Ice............................................76
Tea Ice..................................................76
Vanilla Ice..............................................76
Noyau Cream Ice..........................................76
Maraschino Cream Ice.....................................76
Water Ices...............................................77
Currant Water Ice........................................77
Cherry Water Ice.........................................77
Gooseberry Water Ice.....................................77
Raspberry Water Ice......................................77
Apricot Water Ice........................................77
Peach Water Ice..........................................77
Damson Ice...............................................77
Pine-Apple Water Ice.....................................78
Fresh Pine-Apples Water Ice..............................78
Apple-water Ice..........................................78
Pear-water Ice...........................................78
Orange-Water Ice.........................................78
Lemon-Water Ice..........................................78
Maraschino-Water Ice.....................................78
Punch-Water Ice..........................................78
Roman Punch Ice..........................................79
Mille Fruit Water Ice....................................79
Calves' Feet Jellies.....................................79
Coffee Jelly.............................................79
Tea Jelly, Green or Black................................79
Strawberry Jelly.........................................80
Pine-Apple Jelly.........................................80
Jelly of Apricots........................................80
Orange Jelly.............................................80
Blanc Mange..............................................80
Lemon, Orange, and Bergamot..............................81
Essence de Cédrat........................................81
Allspice, Cloves, Cinnamon, or Nutmegs, &c...............82
Ginger, Peppermint, Vanilla, and Almonds.................82
Dry, in the form of Eggs.................................82
Kisses...................................................83
Italian Meringues........................................83
Mushrooms................................................83
Icing for Wedding or Twelfth Cakes, &c...................84
On piping Cakes, Bon-bons, &c............................84
For Ornaments............................................85
For Gilding on...........................................86
Papier Machée............................................86
To gild Gum Paste, &c....................................86
To Bronze Gum Paste......................................87
On the Construction of Assiettes and Pièces Montées......87
Of Pièces Montées........................................88
Biscuit Paste to imitate Marble Rocks, &c................88
Confectioners' Paste.....................................89
Assiettes montées, or Dressed Plates.....................89
On Modelling.............................................90
Modelling Tools..........................................92
Modelling Wax............................................92
To Prepare Cochineal.....................................92
Carmine, Yellow, Prussian Blue. Sap Green, & Spinach
Green...............................................93
Vermilion and Cinnabar...................................94
Bole Ammoniac, Umber, Bistre, and Black..................94
Purple, Lilac, Orange, Gold, Lemon, and Green............94
ON ESSENTIAL OILS........................................95
Orange-Flower, & Rose Water..............................96
Cinnamon, Peppermint, Lemon-Peel, & Black-Cherry Water...97
Distilled Spirituous Waters for Liqueurs.................98
Hungary Water............................................98
Maraschino de Zara.......................................98
Kirchenwasser............................................99
Eau Divine...............................................99
Eau de Cologne...........................................99
Curaçao..................................................99
Eau de Mélisse des Carmes................................99
The English Method.......................................99
Spirit of Coffee, and Almonds............................99
Spirit of Tea, and Usquebaugh...........................100
LIQUEURS................................................100
Ratafia de Café.........................................100
Ratafia de Cacao........................................100
Ratafia des Noyaux......................................100
Ratafia de Cherries.....................................101
Ratafia de Cassis.......................................101
Ratafia of Raspberries..................................101
Ratafia des Fleurs des Oranges..........................101
Ratafia d'Œillets.......................................101
Ratafia d'Angelique.....................................101
Vespetro................................................101
Chrême de Barbade.......................................101
Chrême d'Orange.........................................101
Ratafia d'Anis..........................................101
Ratafia de Brout des Noix...............................102
SECT. XXV.--The Stove or Hot Closet.....................102
> SECT. I.--Confectionary.
> SECT. II.--Syrups.
> SECTION III.--Crystallized Sugar, and articles crytallized, commonly called Candies.
> SECT. IV.--Candy--Bonbon--Conserve.
> SECT. V.--Crack and Caramel.
View page [viii]
> ON SUGAR-SPINNING.
> SECT. VI.--Chocolate.
> SECT. VII.--Lozenges.
> SECTION VIII.--Pastile Drops.
> SECT. IX.--Comfits.
> COMFITS IN GUM PASTE.
> SECT. X.--Fruit Jellies.
View page [ix]
> SECT. XI.--Marmalades or Jams.
> SECT. XII.--Of Fruit and other Pastes.
> SECT. XIII.--Fruits Preserved with Sugar.
> SECT. XIV.--Compotes.
> SECT. XVII.--Of Cooling Drinks for Bulls and Routs.
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> SECT. XVIII.--Ices.
> SECT. XIX.--Jellies.
> FRUIT JELLIES.
> SECT. XX.--Essences.
> SECT. XXI.--Meringues, Icing.
> SECT. XXII.--Gum Paste.
View page [xi]
> SECT. XXIII.--On Colours.
> THE SHADES PRODUCED BY A MIXTURE OF COLOURS.
> SECT. XXIV.--Distillation.
> DISTILLED WATERS.
> SPIRITS FOR LIQUERS.
> RATAFIAS.
> THE PASTRY-COOK.
INTRODUCTION............................................103
BLANCHED ALMONDS, ICING, PREPARED TREACLE, & RENNET.....104
Abernethy, American, Brighton, Buttered, Captains, Drop, Filbert, Lemon, and Naples.........................105
Queens, Rout, Savoy, Seedy, Wine, York, and Powder......106
Drops, and Cracknels....................................107
Cakes...................................................107
Savoy Cakes.............................................108
Cold Mixtures...........................................108
Almond Savoy Cakes and Almond Hearts....................109
Venice Cake.............................................109
Savoy, to represent a Melon.............................109
Savoy, to imitate a Hedgehog............................109
Bordeaux or Parisian Cakes..............................110
Italian Bread...........................................110
Rice Pound Cake.........................................110
Wafers..................................................110
Almond Cakes............................................110
Almond Savoy............................................111
Bride, Bath, and Banbury................................111
Breakfast...............................................112
Cinnamon, Currant, Caraway, Common Cheese, Curd Cheese,
and Almond Cheese..................................112
Lemon Cheese, Derby, Diet Bread, Ginger, Lord Mayors,
and Lunch..........................................113
Moss, Macaroon, Plum, Pound, and Prussian...............114
Queens, Queen's Drops, Rout, Raspberry, and Ratafias....115
Savoy, Sponge, Seed, Shrewsbury, Tea, Twelfth, and
Yorkshire..........................................116
York Drops, Anne Page's, York Cakes, Jumbles, Cinnamon
Biscuit, Hazlenut Kisses, and Vanilla Biscuit......117
Trifle, Cocoanut, Sans Soucies, Cocoa Biscuit, Lady
Cake, and Lady Fingers.............................118
Spoon Biscuit, Small Biscuits with Almonds, Biscuits
with Cream, Biscuits glazed with Chocolate.........119
Biscuits glazed with Orange.............................120
Almond Bread, Colchester, and Diet......................120
French Rolls, Short Bread, Queen's Ginger-Bread, Spice
Ginger-bread, Thick Ginger-Bread, and Sweetmeat
Nuts...............................................121
Spice Nuts, Muffins, Wheat Muffins, Rice Muffins, Rice
Cakes, and Buckwheat Cakes.........................122
Flannel Cakes, Indian Slappers, Johnny-cake, Corn Bread,
Crumpets, and Rusks...............................123
Sweet Rusks, Tops & Bottoms.............................124
OF PASTES IN GENERAL--PRELIMINARY REMARKS...............124
Ingredients, &c.....................................125
Puff, Short, and Tart Pastes............................126
Apricot Tart............................................126
Covered and Raspberry Tarts.............................127
Mince Pies, and Raised Pie..............................127
> FANCY BISCUITS.
> SECT. I.--The Oven.
> CAKES.
View page [xii]
> FANCY BREAD, GINGER-BREAD, BUNS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, CRUMPETS, &C.
> THE BAKER.
INTRODUCTION............................................128
GENERAL REMARKS ON BAKING...............................129
FAMILY LOAF-BREAD.......................................132
Brown or Diet Bread.....................................134
Bread not liable to become Bitter.......................134
Yeast to Preserve.......................................135
Potatoe Yeast...........................................135
Dr. Lettsom's Method....................................135
Artificial Yeast........................................135
Patent Yeast............................................136
ALUM, POTATOES, &C......................................137
The Old method..........................................141
Modern Method...........................................142
Bread Corn..............................................143
Rice....................................................145
Potatoes................................................145
Bread made of Roots.....................................147
Ragwort.................................................147
Turnip Bread............................................148
Apple Bread.............................................148
Meslin Bread............................................148
Salep Bread.............................................148
Oat and Barley bread....................................148
Debretzen bread.........................................148
Millet Bread............................................149
Maize bread.............................................149
Homminy Cake............................................149
Bean Flour Bread........................................149
Buckwheat Bread.........................................149
Acorn Bread.............................................150
Oatmeal Cakes...........................................150
Oatmeal and Pease Bread.................................150
Chestnut Bread..........................................150
Potatoe Bread...........................................150
Rye Bread--Barley Bread.................................150
The Bread Tree..........................................151
Bread Fruit Bread.......................................152
Sago Bread..............................................152
Casava Bread............................................153
Plantain Bread..........................................153
Banana Bread............................................153
Moss Bread..............................................154
Fried Fish Bread........................................154
Earth Bread.............................................154
> ARTIFICIAL YEASTS.
> METHOD OF MAKING BAKERS' BREAD.
> SUBSTITUTE FOR WHEAT-FLOUR BREAD.
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> THE CONFECTIONER.
> SECTION I.--CONFECTIONARY.
AS SUGAR is the basis or ground-work of the confectioner's art, it is essentially necessary that the practitioner should carefully study and observe the difference in its qualities, the changes which it undergoes or effects when combined with other articles in the process of manufacture, and also the different forms which it assumes by itself at various stages. Without this knowledge, a man will never become a thorough and efficient workman, and it can only be acquired by practice and experience.
The first process which it undergoes in the hands of the confectioner, is that of clarification. It is conducted on the same principle as the refining of sugar, although not carried out in every particular.
Clarification of Raw Sugar.
--For every six pounds of sugar required to be clarified, take one quart of water, the white of an egg, and about half a teacupful of bullock's blood. Less than a pint will be sufficient for 112 pounds; but if a very fine, transparent, and colourless syrup is required, use either charcoal, finely powdered, or ivory black, instead of the blood. Put the white of the egg in the water and whisk it to a froth, then add either of the other articles mentioned, and the sugar, place the pan containing the ingredients on the stove-fire, and stir them well with a spatula, until the sugar is dissolved, and is nearly boiling. When the ebullition commences, throw in a little cold water to check it; this causes the coarser parts to separate more freely, by which means the whole of the impurities attach themselves to the clarifying matter used; continue this for about five minutes, using about one pint of water to every six pounds of sugar, or more, until you consider the whole of the dross is discharged, and there remains a fine clear syrup. Then place it by the side of the stove, and carefully remove with a skimmer the scum which has formed on the top: it may also be taken off as it rises, but I find the best method is to let it remain a short time after it is clarified before it is removed, otherwise, if you take it off as it rises, part of the syrup is also taken with it. When either charcoal or black is used, it must be passed through a filtering-bag made of thick flannel, in the shape of a cone, having a hoop fastened round the top to keep it extended, and to which strings are sewn that it may be tied or suspended in any convenient manner: what runs out at first will be
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quite black; return this again into the bag, and continue doing so until it runs fine and clear.
If a little lime, about a spoonful, or any other alkali is added to the sugar with the water, &c., it will neutralize the acid which all raw sugars contain, and they will be found to stand much better after they have been manufactured, by not taking the damp so soon. This is not generally done by the trade, but it will be found beneficial if practised.
To clarify Loaf Sugar.
--This is clarified by mixing the whites of eggs with water, without any other assistance, for having been previously refined, it does not require those auxiliaries again to separate the coarser parts, unless it is of an inferior quality, or an extra fine syrup, as for bon-bons and other fancy articles, is required.
When it is necessary to have a very fine sparkling grain, in that case break your lump into small pieces and put it in a preserving-pan, with a sufficient quantity of water to dissolve it, in which has been mixed the white of an egg and powdered charcoal,* as for raw sugar, following those instructions already given. After the sugar has been drained from the bag, pass some water through to take off any which may be left in the charcoal, which you use for dissolving more sugar.
The scum should always be reserved, when charcoal or black is not used, to mix with the articles of inferior quality.
The best refined loaf sugar should be white, dry, fine, of a brilliant sparkling appearance when broken, and as close in texture as possible. The best sort of brown has a bright, sparkling, and gravelly look. East India sugars appear finer, but to not contain so much saccharine matter, yet they are much used for manufacturing the best sort of common sweetmeats, when clarified, instead of loaf sugar.
[Editorial note: The following note appears at the bottom of page 14 in the original text.]
*Charcoal varies in its qualities, according to the wood from which it is prepared. That made from porous woods, such as the willow, alder, &c., is the best for clarifying liquids; animal charcoal, or bone black, is also equally good, on account of its light and porous nature; that made from hard woods is only fit for fuel, as it does not possess the clarifying and decolouring properties like that made from the more soft and porous woods. When newly prepared, or if it has been kept free from air, it has the property of absorbing all putrid gases; "it is also capable of destroying the smell and taste of a variety of animal and vegetable substances, especially of mucilages, oils, and of matter in which extractive abounds; and some articles are said to be even deprived of their characteristic odour, by remaining in contact with it, as valerian, galbanum, balsam of Peru, and musk. The use of charring the interior of water-casks, and of wrapping charcoal in cloths that have acquired a bad smell, depend upon this property. None of the fluid menstrua with which we are acquainted have any action whatever, as solvents, upon carbon."--Paris's Pharmacologia.
Degrees of boiling Sugar.--This is the principal point to which the confectioner has to direct his attention; for if he is not expert in this particular, all his other labour and knowledge will be useless: it is
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the foundation on which he must build to acquire success in his undertakings.
There are seven essential points or degrees in boiling sugar; some authors give thirteen, but many of these are useless, and serve only to show a critical precision in the art, without its being required in practice; however, for exactness, we will admit of nine, viz.--1. Small thread. 2. Large thread. 3. Little pearl. 4. Large pearl. 5. The blow. 6. The feather. 7. Ball. 8. Crack. 9. Caramel. This last degree derives its name from "a Count Albufage Caramel, of Nismes, who discovered this method of boiling sugar."--Gunter's Confectioner.
In describing the process, I shall proceed in a different manner to other writers on the subject, by classing it under different heads, according to the uses to which it is applied.
> SYRUP.
Under this head are comprised the degrees from the small thread to the large pearl; for at these points the sugar is kept in a divided state, and remains a fluid of an oily consistency. A bottle which holds three ounces of water will contain four ounces of syrup. The method of ascertaining those degrees, according to the usages of the trade, is as follows:--
Small Thread.
--Having placed the clarified syrup on the fire, let it boil a little, then dip the top of your finger in the boiling syrup, and on taking it out apply it to the top of your thumb, when, if it has attained the degree, on separating them a small ring will be drawn out a little distance, about as fine as a hair, which will break and resolve itself into a drop on the thumb and finger.
Large Thread.
--Continue the boiling a little longer, repeat the same operation as before, and a larger string will be drawn.
Little Pearl.
--To ascertain this degree, separate the finger from the thumb as before, and a large string may be drawn, which will extend to nearly the distance the fingers may be opened.
Large Pearl.
--The finger may now be separated from the thumb to the greatest extent before the thread will break.
> CRYSTALLIZATION.
This takes the degrees of the blow and feather. The particles of the sugar being now brought together within the sphere of their activity, the attraction of cohesion commences, whereby they attach themselves together and form quadrilateral pyramids with oblong and rectangular bases. This is generally, but improperly, termed candy, thereby confounding it with the degrees at which it grains, also termed candy. This certainly seems "confusion worse confounded;" but if things are called by their proper names, many of those seeming difficulties and technicalities may be avoided which tend only to confuse and embarrass the young practitioner, without gaining any
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desired end or purpose. If it were generally classed into the degrees of crystallization, the true meaning and use would at once be explained and understood by the greatest novice.
The nature and principle of this operation are these. First, as in the case of syrup (the first four degrees), when t