The Complete Confectioner, Pastry-Cook, and Baker... Parkinson Confectionery. Cookery, American. Complete title: The Complete Confectioner, Pastry-Cook, and Baker. Plain and Practical Directions for Making Confectionary and Pastry, and for Baking; with Upwards of Five Hundred Receipts: Consisting of Directions for Making All Sorts of Preserves, Sugar-Boiling, Comfits, Lozenges, Ornamental Cakes, Ices Liquers, Waters, Gum-Paste Ornaments Syrups, Jellies, Marmalades, Compotes, Bread-Baking, Artificial Yeasts, Fancy Biscuits, Cakes, Rolls, Muffins, Tarts, Pies, &c. &c. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott & Co. Electronic edition created by Digital & Multimedia Center, Michigan State University Libraries, East Lansing, Michigan, 2002-2003. Supplementary material by Jan Longone, Anne-Marie Rachman, Peter Berg, Yvonne Lockwood, and Val Berryman 1864 Text xml-external-parsed-entity gif quicktime http://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/completeconfectioner/conf.xml OCLC 3634939 en Digitized as part of "Feeding America: The Historic American Cookbook Project." Michigan State University Libraries, East Lansing, Michigan, 2002-2003. http://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/ United States Nineteenth century The book digitized here was published in the United States before 1923 and is in the public domain according to U.S. copyright law. The digital version and supplementary materials are made available for all educational uses.
THE COMPLETE CONFECTIONER, PASTRY-COOK. AND BAKER. PLAIN AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING CONFECTIONARY AND PASTRY, AND FOR BAKING; WITH UPWARDS OF FIVE HUNDRED RECEIPTS: CONSISTING OF DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL SORTS OF PRESERVES, SUGAR-BOILING, COMFITS, LOZENGES, ORNAMENTAL CAKES, ICES LIQUEURS, WATERS, GUM-PASTE ORNAMENTS SYRUPS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, COMPOTES, BREAD-BAKING, ARTIFICIAL YEASTS, FANCY BISCUITS, CAKES, ROLLS, MUFFINS, TARTS, PIES, &c. &c. WITH ADDITIONS AND ALTERATIONS, BY PARKINSON, Practical Confectioner, Chestnut Street. PHILADELPHIA: J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. 1864.

Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by W. A. LEARY. in the clerk's office of the district court of the United States in and the eastern district of Pennsylvania.

PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.

ALMOST every foreigner who visits this country remarks with astonishment the almost universal neglect of that art upon which, more than any thing else, depends the health and comfort of a people; and by many scientific men have most of the prevalent diseases of this country, especially the dyspepsia, been ascribed to the hurried, crude and unwholesome manner in which our food is prepared; of latter years, more attention has been paid to cooking; but the handmaiden of that parent art, confectionary, is still neglected and unknown, yet it is of little less importance than the graver branch referred to. Confectionary is the poetry of epicurism it throws over the heavy enjoyments of the table the relief of a milder indulgence, and dispenses the delights of a lighter and more harmless gratification of the appetite. The dessert, properly prepared, contributes equally to health and comfort; but "got up" as confectionary too often is, it is not only distasteful to a correct palate, but is deleterious and often actually poisonous.

In introducing to the American public the modes by which the table of hospitality may be enriched and adorned, we have consulted every authority, French or English, within our reach; but the basis of our little work is to be found in Read's Confectioner, a late London publication.

Having for many years been connected with the oldest, most extensive and successful confectionary establishment in the country, we have been enabled to make from our own experience many important modifications and to introduce many additional receipts, particularly in relation to the various articles of luxury which the bounty of our soil and climate render almost exclusively American.

The volume has thus been increased in size, and we trust improved in value.

Trusting that our efforts to advance the popular knowledge of the art which has for many years engaged our attention, may meet with approbation, we present the result of our labours to a candid and indulgent public.

Chestnut Street, Philadelphia.

PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.

MUCH as there has been written in Cookery Books on the art of Confectionary, there are few, very few works on the subject now extant which are practically written, and these are difficult to be obtained, even at high prices; and, having been published some years since, they do not contain any of the modern improvements, or articles which have been introduced within these few years. The object of the present Treatise is to supply this deficiency, and to convey instruction in as plain and concise a manner as possible to the inexperienced, or young apprentices, that they may be enabled to learn their business more efficiently than many masters can or will instruct them in it.

The style and character of the present work will be found quite different from anything which has preceded it. In the part relating to Sugar-boiling I have endeavoured to show the causes of the effects which take place at the different stages, with the uses to which each of the processes is applied. The deficiency on Hard Confectionary which occurs in all other works will be found amply supplied in this. In the proportions for medicated lozenges I have preferred those pharmacopœias to those used by the trade, as being more likely to contain the true quantities of the different drugs which should compose them. It is from this source that they were originally derived, as at one time they formed no inconsiderable part of pharmacy; but they are now only made by confectioners.

The Section on Ices I have endeavoured to render as plain and intelligible as possible, and although I have given general as well as definite rules for the mixture of each sort, yet the last cannot at all times be implicitly followed, but must be modified or altered with respect to the flavouring matter so as to suit the taste of the employer or the parties for whom they are intended; this should always be most scrupulously attended to, if it is wished to give satisfaction as no fixed rules can be given which will admit of their being made to please all persons.

The business of confectionary is divided into several branches, some of them being quite distinct and separate from each other. The branch known as Hard Confectionary is literally the whole of the business, according to the strict meaning of the word, which is derived from the French words confitures--comfits, things crusted over with dry sugar; and confiturier--confectioner, a maker or seller of comfits or other sweetmeats. The other branches are the Ornamental and Soft Confectionary. The latter relates to everything connected with the oven, or all sorts of cakes and soft biscuits, and more particularly to the preservation of fruits; the other, as the name implies, to every description of ornaments necessary for the decoration of the table. Hard Confectionary still remains a distinct branch or trade of itself; in fact, many persons' sole occupation is the making of lozenges and comfits, termed pan-work. Some also combine with these the different articles connected with sugar-boiling and preserving. The latter are in general blended together, and mostly practised by cooks and pastry-cooks; but the chief business of a confectioner is alone connected with the ornamental department, and everything necessary for the dessert.

I have thought it requisite to mention this specifically, so as to prevent the occurrence of errors which parents and guardians of families often fall into respecting the nature of the business, and also with regard to the capacity of the child which they intend should be brought up to it. I have heard many say, "Never mind; he is a stupid fool, and may do very well to make cakes." If making cakes were the sole object he would have to accomplish, perhaps he might do very well; but even this requires more ingenuity than is generally considered; and if the welfare of the child is studied, so as to enable him to obtain his livelihood in a respectable manner, they must find some means of enabling him to acquire a considerable deal more knowledge than is general with a common-place education, to enable him to compete with the talent at present in the labour-market. The person adapted for this business should be neat and cleanly in his habits, of a lively and ingenious mind, have a quick conception of design, a delicate taste, with a general knowledge of architecture, mythology, and the fine arts; for they are as requisite in the construction of a Pièce Montée, or an allegorical subject to embellish the table, as to an architect or sculptor in the construction of an expensive building or monument. I do not mean to infer that his information must be so extensive, or that he will be required to make the tour of Italy, Rome, and Greece, to study the original masters; but let him take Nature for his guide; and if he possess the rudiments or principles of the art of design, he cannot fail, with a little attention and perseverance, to become an adept in the higher or ornamental branches of his business.

CONTENTS. THE CONFECTIONER. SECT. I.--Confectionary. Clarification of Raw Sugar...............................13 To clarify Loaf Sugar....................................14 Degrees of boiling Sugar.................................14 SYRUP....................................................15 Small Thread........................................15 Large Thread........................................15 Little Pearl........................................15 Large Pearl.........................................15 CRYSTALLIZATION..........................................15 To ascertain the degree of the blow.................16 The Feather.........................................16 CANDY....................................................16 The Ball............................................17 The Crack...........................................17 Caramel.............................................17 SECT. II.--Syrups. General Rules and Observations...........................18 Infusions................................................18 Decoctions...............................................19 Raspberry Syrup..........................................20 Pine-apple Syrup.........................................20 Raspberry Vinegar Syrup..................................20 Strawberry Syrup.........................................21 Currant Syrup............................................21 Morello Cherry Syrup.....................................21 Mulberry Syrup...........................................21 Gooseberry Syrup.........................................21 Lemon Syrup..............................................21 Orange Syrup.............................................21 Orange-Flower Syrup......................................21 Sirop de Capillaire.--Syrup of Maidenhair................21 Syrup of Liquorice.......................................22 Syrup of Violets.........................................22 Syrup of Pinks...........................................22 Syrup of Wormwood........................................23 Syrup of Marshmallows....................................23 Syrup of Sarsaparilla....................................23 Syrup of Coltsfoot.......................................23 Syrup of Ginger..........................................23 Syrup of Almonds.........................................24 Sirop de Pistache........................................24 Syrup of Coffee..........................................24 Syrup of Rum Punch.......................................24 Brandy and Wine Syrups...................................24 SECTION III.--Crystallized Sugar, and articles crytallized, commonly called Candies. Crystallized or Candied Sugar............................25 Fruits to Crystallize....................................25 Crystallized Chocolate...................................26 Liqueur Rings, Drops and other Devices...................26 To form a Chain with Liqueur Rings.......................27 SECT. IV.--Candy--Bonbon--Conserve. Ginger Candy.............................................27 Peppermint, Lemon and Rose Candy.........................27 Coltsfoot or Horehound Candy.............................27 Artificial Fruits, Eggs, &c..............................27 Burnt Almonds............................................28 Burnt Almonds-Red........................................28 Filberts and Pistachios..................................28 Common Burnt Almonds.....................................28 Orange Prawlings.........................................29 Lemon Prawlings..........................................29 SECT. V.--Crack and Caramel. Barley Sugar.............................................29 Barley Sugar Drops.......................................29 Barley Sugar Tablets or Kisses...........................29 Acid Drops and Sticks....................................30 To extract the Acid from Candied Drops, &c...............30 Raspberry Candy..........................................31 Clove, Ginger, or Peppermint Candy.......................31 Brandy Balls, &c.........................................31 Nogat....................................................32 Almond Rock..............................................32 Almond Hardbake..........................................32 ON SUGAR-SPINNING. To make a Silver Web.....................................33 To make a Gold Web.......................................33 Chantilly Baskets........................................33 Grape, Orange, or Cherry Baskets.........................34 Almond Baskets...........................................34 Spanish Candy............................................34 Vases or Baskets, &c., in Spanish Candy..................34 SECT. VI.--Chocolate. Cacao Nuts...............................................35 Roasting.................................................35 The Making of Chocolate..................................36 Vanilla Chocolate........................................36 Cinnamon, Mace, or Clove Chocolate.......................37 Stomachic Chocolate......................................37 Chocolate Harlequin Pistachios...........................37 Chocolate Drops, with Nonpareils.........................37 SECT. VII.--Lozenges. Peppermint, No. 1........................................38 Peppermint, No. 2........................................38 Peppermint, Nos. 3 and 4.................................38 Transparent Mint, No. 5..................................38 Superfine Transparent Mint Lozenges......................39 Rose Lozenges............................................39 Cinnamon Lozenges........................................39 Clove Lozenges...........................................39 Lavender Lozenges........................................39 Ginger Lozenges..........................................39 Nutmeg Lozenges..........................................39 Rhubarb Lozenges.........................................39 Sulphur Lozenges.........................................39 Tolu Lozenges............................................39 Ipecacuanha Lozenges.....................................39 Saffron Lozenges.........................................40 Yellow Pectoral Lozenges.................................40 Lozenges for the Heartburn...............................40 Steel Lozenges...........................................40 Magnesia Lozenges........................................40 Nitre Lozenges...........................................40 Marshmallow Lozenges.....................................40 Vanilla Lozenges.........................................40 Catechu Lozenges.........................................40 Catechu á l'Ambergris.............................40 Catechu with Musk........................................40 Catechu with Orange-flowers..............................40 Catechu with Violets.....................................40 Ching's Yellow Worm Lozenges.............................40 Ching's Brown Worm Lozenges..............................41 Bath Pipe................................................41 Peppermint or other Pipes................................41 Brilliants...............................................41 Refined Liquorice........................................41 SECTION VIII.--Pastile Drops. Chocolate Drops..........................................42 Coffee Drops.............................................42 Cinnamon Drops...........................................43 Clove Drops..............................................43 Vanilla Drops............................................43 Violet Drops.............................................43 Catechu Drops............................................43 Ginger Drops.............................................43 Lemon Drops..............................................43 Rose Drops...............................................43 Peppermint Drops.........................................43 Orange-flower Drops......................................43 Orgeat Drops.............................................43 Raspberry Drops..........................................43 SECT. IX.--Comfits. Scotch Caraway Comfits...................................44 Bath Caraways............................................45 Common Caraways..........................................45 Cinnamon Comfits.........................................45 Coriander Comfits........................................46 Celery Comfits...........................................46 Caraway Comfits, pearled.................................46 Almond Comfits...........................................46 Cardamom Comfits.........................................46 Barberry Comfits.........................................46 Cherry Comfits...........................................47 Comfits flavoured with Liqueurs..........................47 Orange Comfits...........................................47 Lemon Peel or Angelica...................................47 Nonpareils...............................................47 To colour Nonpareils or Comfits..........................47 COMFITS IN GUM PASTE. Raspberry Comfits........................................47 Ginger Comfits...........................................47 Clove Comfits............................................48 To colour Loaf-sugar Dust................................48 SECT. X.--Fruit Jellies. Apple Jelly..............................................48 Quince Jelly.............................................48 Red Currant Jelly........................................48 White and Black Currant Jelly............................49 Violet-coloured Currant Jelly............................49 Cherry Jelly.............................................49 Barberry Jelly...........................................49 Raspberry Jelly..........................................49 Gooseberry Jelly.........................................49 Blackberry Jelly.........................................49 SECT. XI.--Marmalades or Jams. Apple Marmalade..........................................50 Quince Marmalade.........................................50 Apricot Marmalade or Jam.................................50 Cherry Marmalade or Jam..................................50 Orange Marmalade.........................................50 Grape Marmalade..........................................50 SECT. XII.--Of Fruit and other Pastes. Fruit Pastes and Cakes...................................51 Apple or Pippin Cakes....................................51 Apple Cheese.............................................51 Apricot Paste............................................51 Green Apricot Paste......................................52 Currant Paste............................................52 Black Currant Paste......................................52 Raspberry Paste..........................................52 Cherry Paste.............................................52 Peach Paste..............................................52 Plum Paste...............................................52 Damson Cheese............................................52 Quince Paste.............................................53 Orange Paste.............................................53 Lemon Paste..............................................53 Raspberry Cakes..........................................53 Clear Cakes, or Jelly Cakes..............................53 Marshmallow Paste........................................54 Arabic Paste.............................................54 Date Paste...............................................55 Jujube Paste.............................................55 Senegal Paste............................................55 White Liquorice Paste....................................55 Black Liquorice Paste....................................55 Jujube Gum...............................................55 Gomme des Dattes.........................................56 Gum of Violets...........................................56 Almond Paste-Orgeat Paste................................56 SECT. XIII.--Fruits Preserved with Sugar. WET FRUITS...............................................56 Green Apricots, wet......................................57 Green Apricots, pared wet................................58 Ripe Apricots wet........................................58 Ripe Peaches, whole, wet.................................58 Ripe Nectarines, wet.....................................58 Figs, wet................................................58 Greengages, wet..........................................58 Mogul Plums..............................................59 Damsons, wet.............................................59 Green Gooseberries, wet..................................59 Green Gooseberries in the form of Hops, wet..............59 Cucumbers or Gherkins, wet...............................59 Green Melons.............................................60 Ripe Melons, wet.........................................60 Lemons, whole, wet.......................................60 Oranges, whole ,wet......................................60 Whole Orange Peels.......................................60 Orange or Lemon Peels, wet...............................60 Orange or Lemon Chips....................................61 Angelica, wet............................................61 Eringo Root..............................................61 Pine Apple, whole, wet...................................61 Pine Apple Chips or Slices...............................61 Cherries, wet or dry.....................................62 Whole Cherries...........................................62 Grapes in Bunches........................................62 Currants in Bunches, wet.................................62 Barberries in Bunches, wet...............................63 Raspberries, whole, wet..................................63 Pears, whole, wet........................................63 Pears, Red, wet..........................................63 Quinces, Red or White, wet...............................64 Ginger, wet..............................................64 Candied Fruit............................................64 Dried Fruit..............................................64 SECT. XIV.--Compotes. Green Apricot Compote....................................65 Ripe Apricot Compote.....................................65 Compote of Apples, with Jelly............................65 Apple Compote............................................65 Grape Compote............................................65 Currant Compote..........................................65 Raspberry Compote........................................66 Strawberry Compote.......................................66 Macedoine of Fruits......................................66 Cherry Compote...........................................66 SECT. XV.--Brandy Fruits.................................66 SECT. XVI.--On Bottled Fruits, or Fruits Preserved without Sugar...............................................67 SECT. XVII.--Of Cooling Drinks for Bulls and Routs. Gooseberry, Currant, Raspberry, and Strawberry Waters....68 Cherry Water.............................................69 Apricot and Peach Water..................................69 Orgeat Water.............................................69 Lemonade.................................................69 Orangeade................................................69 SECT. XVIII.--Ices. To freeze Ices...........................................70 Cream Ices...............................................72 Raspberry, fresh fruit and Jam...........................72 Strawberry...............................................73 Currant, fresh & preserved fruit.........................73 Barberry Ice.............................................73 Apricot, fresh Fruit, and Jam............................73 Peach Ice................................................73 Pine Apple, fresh & preserved ft.........................73 Ginger Ice...............................................73 Brahma Ice...............................................73 Orange Ice Cream.........................................73 China Orange Ice Cream...................................74 Cherry Ice Cream.........................................74 Harlequin Ice............................................74 Lemon Ice Cream..........................................74 Mille Fruit Ice Cream....................................74 Custard Ices.............................................74 Custard for Ices.........................................74 Plombiere Ice, or Swiss Pudding..........................74 The Sauce................................................75 Almond or Orgeat Ice Cream...............................75 Pistachio Ice Cream......................................75 Filbert Ice Cream........................................75 Chestnut Ice.............................................75 Burnt Filbert Ice Cream..................................75 Burnt Almond Ice Cream...................................75 Coffee Ice Cream.........................................75 Chocolate Ice............................................76 Tea Ice..................................................76 Vanilla Ice..............................................76 Noyau Cream Ice..........................................76 Maraschino Cream Ice.....................................76 Water Ices...............................................77 Currant Water Ice........................................77 Cherry Water Ice.........................................77 Gooseberry Water Ice.....................................77 Raspberry Water Ice......................................77 Apricot Water Ice........................................77 Peach Water Ice..........................................77 Damson Ice...............................................77 Pine-Apple Water Ice.....................................78 Fresh Pine-Apples Water Ice..............................78 Apple-water Ice..........................................78 Pear-water Ice...........................................78 Orange-Water Ice.........................................78 Lemon-Water Ice..........................................78 Maraschino-Water Ice.....................................78 Punch-Water Ice..........................................78 Roman Punch Ice..........................................79 Mille Fruit Water Ice....................................79 SECT. XIX.--Jellies. Calves' Feet Jellies.....................................79 Coffee Jelly.............................................79 Tea Jelly, Green or Black................................79 FRUIT JELLIES. Strawberry Jelly.........................................80 Pine-Apple Jelly.........................................80 Jelly of Apricots........................................80 Orange Jelly.............................................80 Blanc Mange..............................................80 SECT. XX.--Essences. Lemon, Orange, and Bergamot..............................81 Essence de Cédrat........................................81 Allspice, Cloves, Cinnamon, or Nutmegs, &c...............82 Ginger, Peppermint, Vanilla, and Almonds.................82 SECT. XXI.--Meringues, Icing. Dry, in the form of Eggs.................................82 Kisses...................................................83 Italian Meringues........................................83 Mushrooms................................................83 Icing for Wedding or Twelfth Cakes, &c...................84 On piping Cakes, Bon-bons, &c............................84 SECT. XXII.--Gum Paste. For Ornaments............................................85 For Gilding on...........................................86 Papier Machée............................................86 To gild Gum Paste, &c....................................86 To Bronze Gum Paste......................................87 On the Construction of Assiettes and Pièces Montées......87 Of Pièces Montées........................................88 Biscuit Paste to imitate Marble Rocks, &c................88 Confectioners' Paste.....................................89 Assiettes montées, or Dressed Plates.....................89 On Modelling.............................................90 Modelling Tools..........................................92 Modelling Wax............................................92 SECT. XXIII.--On Colours. To Prepare Cochineal.....................................92 Carmine, Yellow, Prussian Blue. Sap Green, & Spinach Green...............................................93 Vermilion and Cinnabar...................................94 Bole Ammoniac, Umber, Bistre, and Black..................94 THE SHADES PRODUCED BY A MIXTURE OF COLOURS. Purple, Lilac, Orange, Gold, Lemon, and Green............94 SECT. XXIV.--Distillation. ON ESSENTIAL OILS........................................95 DISTILLED WATERS. Orange-Flower, & Rose Water..............................96 Cinnamon, Peppermint, Lemon-Peel, & Black-Cherry Water...97 SPIRITS FOR LIQUERS. Distilled Spirituous Waters for Liqueurs.................98 Hungary Water............................................98 Maraschino de Zara.......................................98 Kirchenwasser............................................99 Eau Divine...............................................99 Eau de Cologne...........................................99 Curaçao..................................................99 Eau de Mélisse des Carmes................................99 The English Method.......................................99 Spirit of Coffee, and Almonds............................99 Spirit of Tea, and Usquebaugh...........................100 LIQUEURS................................................100 RATAFIAS. Ratafia de Café.........................................100 Ratafia de Cacao........................................100 Ratafia des Noyaux......................................100 Ratafia de Cherries.....................................101 Ratafia de Cassis.......................................101 Ratafia of Raspberries..................................101 Ratafia des Fleurs des Oranges..........................101 Ratafia d'Œillets.......................................101 Ratafia d'Angelique.....................................101 Vespetro................................................101 Chrême de Barbade.......................................101 Chrême d'Orange.........................................101 Ratafia d'Anis..........................................101 Ratafia de Brout des Noix...............................102 SECT. XXV.--The Stove or Hot Closet.....................102 THE PASTRY-COOK. INTRODUCTION............................................103 BLANCHED ALMONDS, ICING, PREPARED TREACLE, & RENNET.....104 FANCY BISCUITS. Abernethy, American, Brighton, Buttered, Captains, Drop, Filbert, Lemon, and Naples.........................105 Queens, Rout, Savoy, Seedy, Wine, York, and Powder......106 Drops, and Cracknels....................................107 SECT. I.--The Oven. Cakes...................................................107 Savoy Cakes.............................................108 Cold Mixtures...........................................108 Almond Savoy Cakes and Almond Hearts....................109 Venice Cake.............................................109 Savoy, to represent a Melon.............................109 Savoy, to imitate a Hedgehog............................109 Bordeaux or Parisian Cakes..............................110 Italian Bread...........................................110 Rice Pound Cake.........................................110 Wafers..................................................110 CAKES. Almond Cakes............................................110 Almond Savoy............................................111 Bride, Bath, and Banbury................................111 Breakfast...............................................112 Cinnamon, Currant, Caraway, Common Cheese, Curd Cheese, and Almond Cheese..................................112 Lemon Cheese, Derby, Diet Bread, Ginger, Lord Mayors, and Lunch..........................................113 Moss, Macaroon, Plum, Pound, and Prussian...............114 Queens, Queen's Drops, Rout, Raspberry, and Ratafias....115 Savoy, Sponge, Seed, Shrewsbury, Tea, Twelfth, and Yorkshire..........................................116 York Drops, Anne Page's, York Cakes, Jumbles, Cinnamon Biscuit, Hazlenut Kisses, and Vanilla Biscuit......117 Trifle, Cocoanut, Sans Soucies, Cocoa Biscuit, Lady Cake, and Lady Fingers.............................118 Spoon Biscuit, Small Biscuits with Almonds, Biscuits with Cream, Biscuits glazed with Chocolate.........119 Biscuits glazed with Orange.............................120 FANCY BREAD, GINGER-BREAD, BUNS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, CRUMPETS, &C. Almond Bread, Colchester, and Diet......................120 French Rolls, Short Bread, Queen's Ginger-Bread, Spice Ginger-bread, Thick Ginger-Bread, and Sweetmeat Nuts...............................................121 Spice Nuts, Muffins, Wheat Muffins, Rice Muffins, Rice Cakes, and Buckwheat Cakes.........................122 Flannel Cakes, Indian Slappers, Johnny-cake, Corn Bread, Crumpets, and Rusks...............................123 Sweet Rusks, Tops & Bottoms.............................124 OF PASTES IN GENERAL--PRELIMINARY REMARKS...............124 Ingredients, &c.....................................125 Puff, Short, and Tart Pastes............................126 Apricot Tart............................................126 Covered and Raspberry Tarts.............................127 Mince Pies, and Raised Pie..............................127 THE BAKER. INTRODUCTION............................................128 GENERAL REMARKS ON BAKING...............................129 FAMILY LOAF-BREAD.......................................132 Brown or Diet Bread.....................................134 Bread not liable to become Bitter.......................134 ARTIFICIAL YEASTS. Yeast to Preserve.......................................135 Potatoe Yeast...........................................135 Dr. Lettsom's Method....................................135 Artificial Yeast........................................135 Patent Yeast............................................136 ALUM, POTATOES, &C......................................137 METHOD OF MAKING BAKERS' BREAD. The Old method..........................................141 Modern Method...........................................142 SUBSTITUTE FOR WHEAT-FLOUR BREAD. Bread Corn..............................................143 Rice....................................................145 Potatoes................................................145 Bread made of Roots.....................................147 Ragwort.................................................147 Turnip Bread............................................148 Apple Bread.............................................148 Meslin Bread............................................148 Salep Bread.............................................148 Oat and Barley bread....................................148 Debretzen bread.........................................148 Millet Bread............................................149 Maize bread.............................................149 Homminy Cake............................................149 Bean Flour Bread........................................149 Buckwheat Bread.........................................149 Acorn Bread.............................................150 Oatmeal Cakes...........................................150 Oatmeal and Pease Bread.................................150 Chestnut Bread..........................................150 Potatoe Bread...........................................150 Rye Bread--Barley Bread.................................150 The Bread Tree..........................................151 Bread Fruit Bread.......................................152 Sago Bread..............................................152 Casava Bread............................................153 Plantain Bread..........................................153 Banana Bread............................................153 Moss Bread..............................................154 Fried Fish Bread........................................154 Earth Bread.............................................154
THE CONFECTIONER.
SECTION I.--CONFECTIONARY.

AS SUGAR is the basis or ground-work of the confectioner's art, it is essentially necessary that the practitioner should carefully study and observe the difference in its qualities, the changes which it undergoes or effects when combined with other articles in the process of manufacture, and also the different forms which it assumes by itself at various stages. Without this knowledge, a man will never become a thorough and efficient workman, and it can only be acquired by practice and experience.

The first process which it undergoes in the hands of the confectioner, is that of clarification. It is conducted on the same principle as the refining of sugar, although not carried out in every particular.

Clarification of Raw Sugar. --For every six pounds of sugar required to be clarified, take one quart of water, the white of an egg, and about half a teacupful of bullock's blood. Less than a pint will be sufficient for 112 pounds; but if a very fine, transparent, and colourless syrup is required, use either charcoal, finely powdered, or ivory black, instead of the blood. Put the white of the egg in the water and whisk it to a froth, then add either of the other articles mentioned, and the sugar, place the pan containing the ingredients on the stove-fire, and stir them well with a spatula, until the sugar is dissolved, and is nearly boiling. When the ebullition commences, throw in a little cold water to check it; this causes the coarser parts to separate more freely, by which means the whole of the impurities attach themselves to the clarifying matter used; continue this for about five minutes, using about one pint of water to every six pounds of sugar, or more, until you consider the whole of the dross is discharged, and there remains a fine clear syrup. Then place it by the side of the stove, and carefully remove with a skimmer the scum which has formed on the top: it may also be taken off as it rises, but I find the best method is to let it remain a short time after it is clarified before it is removed, otherwise, if you take it off as it rises, part of the syrup is also taken with it. When either charcoal or black is used, it must be passed through a filtering-bag made of thick flannel, in the shape of a cone, having a hoop fastened round the top to keep it extended, and to which strings are sewn that it may be tied or suspended in any convenient manner: what runs out at first will be quite black; return this again into the bag, and continue doing so until it runs fine and clear.

If a little lime, about a spoonful, or any other alkali is added to the sugar with the water, &c., it will neutralize the acid which all raw sugars contain, and they will be found to stand much better after they have been manufactured, by not taking the damp so soon. This is not generally done by the trade, but it will be found beneficial if practised.

To clarify Loaf Sugar. --This is clarified by mixing the whites of eggs with water, without any other assistance, for having been previously refined, it does not require those auxiliaries again to separate the coarser parts, unless it is of an inferior quality, or an extra fine syrup, as for bon-bons and other fancy articles, is required. When it is necessary to have a very fine sparkling grain, in that case break your lump into small pieces and put it in a preserving-pan, with a sufficient quantity of water to dissolve it, in which has been mixed the white of an egg and powdered charcoal,* as for raw sugar, following those instructions already given. After the sugar has been drained from the bag, pass some water through to take off any which may be left in the charcoal, which you use for dissolving more sugar.

The scum should always be reserved, when charcoal or black is not used, to mix with the articles of inferior quality.

The best refined loaf sugar should be white, dry, fine, of a brilliant sparkling appearance when broken, and as close in texture as possible. The best sort of brown has a bright, sparkling, and gravelly look. East India sugars appear finer, but to not contain so much saccharine matter, yet they are much used for manufacturing the best sort of common sweetmeats, when clarified, instead of loaf sugar.

 The following note appears at the bottom of page 14 in the original text.

*Charcoal varies in its qualities, according to the wood from which it is prepared. That made from porous woods, such as the willow, alder, &c., is the best for clarifying liquids; animal charcoal, or bone black, is also equally good, on account of its light and porous nature; that made from hard woods is only fit for fuel, as it does not possess the clarifying and decolouring properties like that made from the more soft and porous woods. When newly prepared, or if it has been kept free from air, it has the property of absorbing all putrid gases; "it is also capable of destroying the smell and taste of a variety of animal and vegetable substances, especially of mucilages, oils, and of matter in which extractive abounds; and some articles are said to be even deprived of their characteristic odour, by remaining in contact with it, as valerian, galbanum, balsam of Peru, and musk. The use of charring the interior of water-casks, and of wrapping charcoal in cloths that have acquired a bad smell, depend upon this property. None of the fluid menstrua with which we are acquainted have any action whatever, as solvents, upon carbon."--Paris's Pharmacologia.

Degrees of boiling Sugar.--This is the principal point to which the confectioner has to direct his attention; for if he is not expert in this particular, all his other labour and knowledge will be useless: it is the foundation on which he must build to acquire success in his undertakings.

There are seven essential points or degrees in boiling sugar; some authors give thirteen, but many of these are useless, and serve only to show a critical precision in the art, without its being required in practice; however, for exactness, we will admit of nine, viz.--1. Small thread. 2. Large thread. 3. Little pearl. 4. Large pearl. 5. The blow. 6. The feather. 7. Ball. 8. Crack. 9. Caramel. This last degree derives its name from "a Count Albufage Caramel, of Nismes, who discovered this method of boiling sugar."--Gunter's Confectioner.

In describing the process, I shall proceed in a different manner to other writers on the subject, by classing it under different heads, according to the uses to which it is applied.

SYRUP.

Under this head are comprised the degrees from the small thread to the large pearl; for at these points the sugar is kept in a divided state, and remains a fluid of an oily consistency. A bottle which holds three ounces of water will contain four ounces of syrup. The method of ascertaining those degrees, according to the usages of the trade, is as follows:--

Small Thread. --Having placed the clarified syrup on the fire, let it boil a little, then dip the top of your finger in the boiling syrup, and on taking it out apply it to the top of your thumb, when, if it has attained the degree, on separating them a small ring will be drawn out a little distance, about as fine as a hair, which will break and resolve itself into a drop on the thumb and finger.

Large Thread. --Continue the boiling a little longer, repeat the same operation as before, and a larger string will be drawn.

Little Pearl. --To ascertain this degree, separate the finger from the thumb as before, and a large string may be drawn, which will extend to nearly the distance the fingers may be opened.

Large Pearl. --The finger may now be separated from the thumb to the greatest extent before the thread will break.

 CRYSTALLIZATION.

This takes the degrees of the blow and feather. The particles of the sugar being now brought together within the sphere of their activity, the attraction of cohesion commences, whereby they attach themselves together and form quadrilateral pyramids with oblong and rectangular bases. This is generally, but improperly, termed candy, thereby confounding it with the degrees at which it grains, also termed candy. This certainly seems "confusion worse confounded;" but if things are called by their proper names, many of those seeming difficulties and technicalities may be avoided which tend only to confuse and embarrass the young practitioner, without gaining any desired end or purpose. If it were generally classed into the degrees of crystallization, the true meaning and use would at once be explained and understood by the greatest novice.

The nature and principle of this operation are these. First, as in the case of syrup (the first four degrees), when the water has absorbed as much sugar as it is capable of containing in a cold state, by continuing the boiling, a further portion of the solvent (water) is evaporated, and sugar remains in excess, which, when exposed to a less degree of heat, separates itself, and forms crystals on the surface and sides of the vessel in which it is contained, and also on anything placed or suspended in it. But if it is exposed too suddenly to the cold, or disturbed in its action by being shaken, or if the boiling has been continued too long, the crystals will form irregularly by the particles being brought in too close contact, and run too hastily together, forming a mass or lump.

To obtain this part in perfection, the boiling should be gradual, and continued no longer than till a few drops let fall on a cold surface show a crystalline appearance, or after being removed from the fire a thin skin will form on the surface. It should then be taken from the fire and placed in a less hot but not cold place, and covered or put into a stove or hot closet to prevent the access of cold air. A few drops of spirits of wine, added when the sugar has attained the proper degree, will conduce to a more perfect crystalline form, scarcely attainable by any other means, as it has a great affinity with the water, thereby causing the sugar to separate itself more freely. It must be used with caution, as too much will cause it to grain.

To ascertain the Degree of the Blow.--Continue the boiling of the sugar, dip a skimmer in it and shake it over the pan, then blow through the holes, and if small bubbles or air-bladders are seen on the other side, it has acquired this degree.

The Feather.--Dip the skimmer again into the sugar, and blow through the holes as before, and the bubbles will appear larger and stronger. Or if you give the skimmer a sudden jerk, so as to throw the sugar from you, when it has acquired the degree, it will appear hanging from the skimmer in fine long strings.

 CANDY.

Sugar, after it has passed the degree of the feather, is of itself naturally inclined to grain, that is to candy, and will form a powder if agitated or stirred: for as the boiling is continued, so is the water evaporated until there is nothing left to hold it in solution: therefore that body being destroyed by heat, which first changed its original form to those we have already enumerated, as this no longer exists with it, it naturally returns to the same state as it was before the solvent was added, which is that of minute crystals or grains, being held together by the attraction of cohesion, unless, as before stated, they are separated by stirring, &c.

The sugar being evaporated by boiling from the last degree, leaves a thin crust of crystals round the sides of the pan, which shows it has attained the candy height; and this crust must be carefully removed, as it forms, with a damp cloth or sponge, or the whole mass will candy if suffered to remain. To prevent this is the chief desideratum, all further proceedings for which specific rules will be given in their proper places.

The remaining degrees can be ascertained after the following manner:--

The Ball. --Provide a jug of clean cold water, and a piece of round stick. First dip in the water, then in the sugar, and again in the water;* take off the sugar which has adhered to it, and endeavour to roll it into a ball between the finger and thumb in the water: when this can be done, it has attained the desired degree. If it forms a large hard ball which will bite hard and adhere to the teeth when eaten, it is then termed the large ball, et contra.

The Crack. --Follow the directions given for the ball. Slip the sugar off from the stick, still holding it in the water, then press it between the finger and thumb; if it breaks short and crisp, with a slight noise, it is at the crack.

Caramel. --To obtain this degree it requires care and attention, and also to be frequently tried, as it passes speedily from the crack to the caramel. Try it as before directed, and let the water be quite cold, or you will be deceived. If on taking it off the stick it snaps like glass, with a loud noise, it has attained the proper degree; it will also, when it arrives at this point, assume a beautiful yellow colour; after this it will speedily burn, taking all the hues from a brown to a black; therefore, to prevent this, dip the bottom of the pan into a pail of cold water as soon as it comes to caramel, as the heat which is contained in the pan and sugar is sufficient to advance it one degree; also be careful that the flame of the fire does not ascend round the sides of the pan, which will burn it.

In boiling sugar, keep the top of the pan partially covered from the time it commences boiling until it has attained the ball or crack: the steam which rises, being again thrown on the sides, prevents the formation of the crust or crystals.

The following note appears at the bottom of page 14 in the original text.

*This should be performed as speedily as possible.

To prevent its graining, add a little of any sort of acid when it is at the crack--a table-spoonful of common vinegar, four or five drops of lemon-juice, or two or three drops of pyroligneous acid: any of these will have the desired effect; this is termed greasing it: but remember that too much acid will also grain it, neither can it be boiled to caramel if there is too much. A little butter added when it first commences boiling will keep it from rising over the pan, and also prevent its graining. About as much cream of tartar as may be laid on a sixpence, and added to seven pounds of sugar with the water, or equal quantities of cream of tartar and alum in powder, added when it boils, will also keep it from candying. If sugar is poured on a slab that is too hot it is very apt to grain; this is frequently the case after several casts have been worked off in rotation; therefore, when you find it inclined to turn, remove it to a cooler spot, if possible, and not handle it any more than is necessary.

Sugar that has been often boiled or warmed is soon acted upon by the atmosphere, whereby it becomes clammy and soon runs, as it is weakened by the action of the fire. Acid causes the same effect.

If it has passed the degree you intended to boil it at, add a little water, and give it another boil.
SECTION II.--SYRUPS.

THESE are either the juices of fruits, or a decoction or infusion of the leaves, flowers, or roots of vegetables, impregnated with a sufficient quantity of sugar for their preservation and retaining them in a liquid state.

A great portion of this class comes more under the notice of the apothecary than the confectioner; but it may now be considered, with lozenges, as a branch of pharmacy in the hands of the latter, the most agreeable of which are now manufactured by him to supply the place of fresh fruits, &c., when out of season, for the making of cooling drinks, ices, &c., for balls and routs.

General Rules and Observations.--Two things are essentially necessary to be observed, which are:--the proper methods of making decoctions and infusions. These require some knowledge of the nature and properties of vegetable matter.

The virtues of most plants are extracted by infusion, and this is generally the case with aromatic plants, and those whose properties depend on an essential oil; for, in boiling, the whole of the aroma of the plant is dispersed, and the syrup loses that delicate flavour for which it is prized.

Aromatic herbs, and the leaves of plants in general, yield their virtues most perfectly when moderately dried. Cold water extracts from these in a few hours, the lighter, more fragrant and agreeable parts, and then begins to take up the more ungrateful and grosser. By pouring the same liquor on fresh parcels of the herb, it becomes stronger, richer, thicker, and balsamic.

Those only should be decocted whose principles consist of mucilage, gum, or resin, and require boiling to extract them.

The compact resinous woods, roots and barks, yield their virtues most freely while fresh. Dry, they yield little to cold or moderately warm water, and require it to be boiling. By this process the grosser, more fixed saline and mucilaginous parts are dissolved, the resinous melted out, and the volatile dissipated.

Infusions. --"These are watery solutions of vegetable matter obtained by maceration, either in hot or cold water, with the assistance of ebullition. In selecting and conducting the operation, the following general rules should be observed:--

"1st. Infusion should always be preferred before decoction, where the virtues of the vegetable substance reside in volatile oil, or in principles which are easily soluble; whereas, if they depend upon resino-mucilaginous particles, decoction is an indispensible operation.

"2nd. The temperature employed must be varied according to the circumstances of each case, and infusion made with cold is in general more grateful but less active than one made with heat.

"3rd. The duration of the process must likewise be regulated by the nature of the substances; for the infusion will differ according to the time in which the water has been digested on the materials; thus the aroma of the plant is first taken up, then in succession the colouring, astringent, and gummy parts.

Decoctions. --"These are solutions of the active principles of vegetables, obtained by boiling them in water.

"1st. Those principles only should be decocted whose virtues reside in principles which are soluble in water.

"2nd. If the active principle be volatile, decoction must be an injurious process; and if it consists of extractive matter, long boiling, by favouring its oxidizement, will render it insipid, insoluble, and inert.

"3rd. The substances to be decocted should be previously bruised or sliced, so as to expose an extended surface to the action of the water.

"4th. The substances should be completely covered with water, and the vessel slightly closed, in order to prevent as much as possible the access of air; the boiling should be continued without interruption, and gently.

"5th. In compound decoctions, it is sometimes convenient not to put in all the ingredients from the beginning, but in succession, according to their hardness, and the difficulty with which their virtues are extracted; and if any aromatic or other substances containing volatile principles, or oxidizable matter, enter into the composition, the boiling decoction should be simply poured upon them, and covered up until cold.

"6th. The relative proportions of different vegetable substances to the water must be regulated by their nature. The following general rule may be admitted. Of roots, barks, or dried woods, from two drachms to six to every pint of water: of herbs, or flowers, half that quantity will suffice.

"7th. The decoction ought to be filtered through linen while hot, as important portions of the dissolved matter are frequently deposited on cooling; care must also be taken that the filter is not too fine, for it frequently happens that the virtues of a decoction depend upon the presence of particles in a minutely divided state."--Paris's Pharmacologia.

All acid syrups ought to have their full quantity of sugar, so as to bring them to a consistence without boiling, because the very action of much heat destroys their acidity, and makes them liable to candy and this more particularly holds good where the infusion or juice, &c. has any fragrancy in flavour, because the volatile oil is dissipated by boiling. The same observation is also applicable to those infusions of flowers which give out their colour, and which is necessary to be retained, such as violets, pinks, &c., as boiling injures them.

Those syrups which are made from decoctions, and do not take a sufficient quantity of sugar to bring them to a due consistence without boiling, require to be clarified so as to render them transparent; but this is often an injury, as the whites of eggs take off some of their chief properties with the scum; therefore, the decoction should first be rendered clear by settling or filtering, and the sugar should be clarified and boiled to the height of the feather or ball before the decoction is added, when it must be reduced to the proper degree.

The best and most general method of making syrups is to add a sufficient quantity of the finest loaf-sugar, in powder, with the juice or infusion, &c., stirring it well until a small portion settles at the bottom, then place the pan in a larger one containing water; this is termed the bain-marie; put it on the fire, and the heat of the water as it boils will dissolve the sugar; when this has been thoroughly effected, take it off and let it cool; if more sugar is added than the quantity above named, it will separate in crystals, and not leave sufficient remaining in the syrup for its preservation. (See observations on Sugar-boiling). When cold, put it into small bottles, fill them, cork closely, and keep in a dry cool place. Be particularly careful that no tinned articles are used in the making of syrups from the juice of red fruits, as it will act on the tin and change the colour to a dead blue.

Raspberry Syrup. --One pint of juice, two pounds of sugar. Choose the fruit either red or white, mash it in a pan, and put it in a warm place for two or three days, or until the fermentation has commenced. All mucilaginous fruits require this, or else it would jelly after it is bottled. Filter the juice through a flannel bag, add the sugar in powder, place in the bain-marie, and stir it until dissolved; take it off, let it get cold, take off the scum, and bottle it.

[Pine-apple Syrup. --Take one and a half pints of syrup boiled to the ball, add to this, one pint of the juice of the best Havanna pine-apples; let it then come to a boil, remove the scum, and bottle when cool.]

Raspberry Vinegar Syrup. --One pint of juice, two pints of apple vinegar, four pounds and a half of sugar. Prepare the juice as before, adding the vinegar with it, using white vinegar with white raspberries; strain the juice and boil to the pearl.

Three pounds of raspberries, two pints of vinegar, three pounds of sugar. Put the raspberries into the vinegar without mashing them, cover the pan close, and let it remain in a cellar for seven or eight days: then filter the infusion, add the sugar in powder, and finish in the bain-marie. This is superior to the first, as the beautiful aroma of the fruit is lost in the boiling, as may be well known by its scenting the place where it is done, or even the whole house; the fruit may also be afterwards used with more for raspberry cakes.

[Strawberry Syrup. --Make as pine-apple; taking care to strain carefully at least twice, through a fine flannel bag, so as to remove entirely all sediment, and the small seed of the fruit.]

Currant Syrup. --One pint of juice, two pounds of sugar. Mix together three pounds of currants, half white and half red, one pound of raspberries, and one pound of cherries, without the stones; mash the fruit and let it stand in a warm place for three or four days, keeping it covered with a coarse cloth, or piece of paper with holes pricked in it to keep out any dust or dirt. Filter the juice, add the sugar in powder, finish in the bain-marie, and skim it. When cold, put it into bottles, fill them, and cork well.

Morello Cherry Syrup. --Take the stones out of the cherries, mash them, and press out the juice in an earthen pan; let it stand in a cool place for two days, then filter; add two pounds of sugar to one pint of juice, finish in the bain-marie, or stir it well on the fire, and give it one or two boils.

Mulberry Syrup. --One pint of juice, one pound twelve ounces of sugar. Press out the juice and finish as cherry syrup.

Gooseberry Syrup. --One pint of juice, one pound twelve ounces of sugar. To twelve pounds of ripe gooseberries add two pounds of cherries without stones, squeeze out the juice, and finish as others.

Lemon Syrup. --One pint and a quarter of juice, two pounds of sugar. Let the juice stand in a cool place to settle. When a thin skin is formed on the top, pour it off and filter, add the sugar, and finish in the bain-marie. If the flavour of the peel is preferred with it, grate off the yellow rind of the lemons and mix it with the juice to infuse, or rub it off on part of the sugar and add it with the remainder when you finish it.

Orange Syrup. --As lemon syrup.

Orange-Flower Syrup. --Picked orange flowers one pound, sugar three pounds. Take one half of the sugar and make a syrup, which boil to the large pearl, put the flowers in a basin or jar, and pour the syrup on them boiling hot, cover the jar or basin quite close and let them infuse in it for five or six hours, then drain off the syrup, boil the remaining portion of sugar, and pour over them as before; when cold, strain and bottle.

Sirop de Capillaire.--Syrup of Maidenhair. --There are several sorts of Maidenhair, but the best is that of Canada, which has a pleasant smell joined to its pectoral qualities. The true Maidenhair--Capillus Veneris--is a native of Italy and of the southern parts of France. It has an agreeable but very weak smell. Common or English Maidenhair--Trichomanes--is usually substituted for the true, and occasionally for the Canadian. Its leaves consist of small round divisions, growing as it were in pairs. It grows on rocks, old walls, and shady banks, and should be gathered in September Black Maidenhair--Adianthum Nigrum--has smooth and shining leaves, the middle rib being black, and the seeds are all spread on the back of the leaf. It grows on shady banks, and on the roots of trees. White Maidenhair--Wall Rue--Tent Wort--Ruta Murana Salvia Vitæ.--The leaves of this are shaped something like rue, and covered all over the back with a small seed-like dust. Golden Maidenhair--Muscus Capillaris--grows in moist places, and the pedicle arises from the top of the stalk. I have given these particulars, because I find they are often substituted one for the other by persons who are not aware that there is any difference. Although all of them have nearly the same qualities, only two have a volatile oil, but they are all mucilaginous.

Canada capillaire two ounces, sugar two pounds. Chop the capillaire into small bits, and make as orange-flower syrup. By this method the oil is not allowed to escape, which being exceedingly odoriferous and volatile, is soon dissipated if boiled; or make a cold infusion (See Infusions) of the plant by putting one quart of water to four ounces of capillaire, add four pounds of sugar, and finish in the bain-marie, adding one ounce of orange-flower water.* [This is a fashionable and delicate syrup, but is rarely obtained genuine.]

Simple syrup, flavoured with orange-flower water, is usually substituted for it.

Syrup of Liquorice. --Liquorice-root two ounces, white maidenhair one ounce, hyssop half an ounce, boiling water three pints; slice the root and cut the herbs small, infuse in the water for twenty-four hours, strain and add sufficient sugar, or part sugar and honey, to make a syrup; boil to the large pearl. An excellent pectoral.

Syrup of Violets. --One pound of violet flowers, one quart of water, four pounds of sugar. Put the flowers cleared from their stalks and calx, into a glazed earthen pan; pour on the water boiling hot, and stop the pan quite close; let it remain in a warm place for a day, then strain off the infusion through a thin cloth; add the sugar, and place in the bain-marie: stir it well and heat it until you can scarcely bear your finger in it; then take it off, and when cold, bottle. A laxative. This syrup is often adulterated by being made with the flowers of hearts-ease, or columbine scented with orrice-root, and coloured.

 The following note appears at the bottom of page 22 in the original text.

*The pectoral quality of this syrup--for it is often sold for such purposes in shops--would be much improved if made with the addition of liquorice-root, as ordered by the Pharmacopœias--"Five ounces of capillaire, two ounces of liquorice-root, six pints of water; white sugar a sufficient quantity; two ounces of orange-flower water"

Syrup of Pinks. --Clove pinks, one pound eight ounces, water two pints and a half, sugar, three pounds. Let the flowers be fresh gathered, cut off the white points of the petals and weigh them. Finish as syrup of violets. This syrup may be made with a cold infusion of the flowers, first pounding them with a little water in a marble mortar. Finish as before. If the flowers of the clove pink cannot be obtained, use other pinks, adding a few cloves to infuse with them, so as to give the flavour.

Syrup of Roses. --The dried leaves of Provence roses eight ounces double rose leaves six ounces, water one quart, sugar four pounds. Pour the water on the leaves when nearly boiling, into a glazed earthen vessel, cover it quite close, and let it remain in a warm place for a day; then strain and finish as violets. The leaves of the damask rose are purgative.

Syrup of Wormwood. --There are three sorts of wormwood most generally known,--the common, sea, and Roman. The first may be distinguished by its broad leaves which are divided into roundish segments, of a dull green colour above, and whitish underneath; its taste is an intense and disagreeable bitter. The sea wormwood has smaller leaves and hoary both above and underneath; it grows in salt marshes, and about the sea coasts; the smell and taste are not so strong and disagreeable as the common. The Roman differs from the others by the plant being smaller in all its parts; the leaves are divided into fine filaments and hoary all over, the stalk being either entirely or in part of a purple colour. Its smell is pleasant, and the bitterness not disagreeable: it is cultivated in gardens. The sea wormwood is generally substituted for it.

The tops of Roman wormwood two ounces, water one pint, sugar two pounds. Make an infusion of the leaves in warm water, strain, add the sugar to the infusion, and boil to a pearl. If the common wormwood only can be obtained, put the tops into three times the above quantity of water, and boil it over a strong fire until reduced to a pint. This will deprive it of part of its bitterness and disagreeable smell.

Syrup of Marshmallows--Sirop de Guimauve. --Fresh mallow roots eight ounces, water one quart, sugar three pounds. Cleanse the roots, and slice them; make a decoction (See Decoctions) boiling it a quarter of an hour, so as to obtain the mucilage of the root; strain, and finish as wormwood. One ounce of liquorice-root and one ounce of white maidenhair, with a few stoned raisins, may be added.

[Syrup of Sarsaparilla. --Half a pound of bruised sarsaparilla root, two ounces of ground orange peel, one ounce liquorice-root, sassafras bark bruised, two ounces, one gallon of water; boil to half a gallon, strain; to each pint of liquor add one pound of sugar; put on the fire till it boils, and take off the scum which arises.]

Syrup of Coltsfoot. --Fresh Coltsfoot flowers one pound eight ounces, water one quart, sugar three pounds. Pick the flowers about February, and make an infusion of them with hot water; strain, and finish as wormwood syrup. Two or three handfuls of the leaves may be pounded and infused instead of the flowers.

Syrup of Ginger. --Ginger two ounces, water one pint, sugar two pounds.

Slice the root if fresh, or bruise it if dried; pour the water on it boiling, and let it macerate in a warm place for a day, then strain, and boil to the pearl.

[Another.--A better flavoured and a richer ginger syrup is made in the following manner.--Take any quantity of scraped, white, Jamaica ginger and infuse for several days in good spirits of wine; decant the clear liquor when sufficiently saturated with the ginger, and add to the hot sugar, previously boiled to the ball or feather, a sufficient quantity of the liquor to impart to the syrup the agreeable aroma of the ginger root.

The spirit will be rapidly driven off when it is poured into the boiling syrup, and a bland and beautiful syrup will be the result; let it cool, and bottle immediately.]

Syrup of Almonds--Sirop de Orgeat. --One pound of sweet almonds, four ounces of bitter ones, one pint and a half of water, sugar three pounds, orange-flower water two ounces.

Blanch the almonds, and as they are blanched throw them into cold water; when they are finished, take them out and pound them in a marble mortar, sprinkling them with a little orange-flower water to prevent their oiling, or use water with the juice of a lemon; add sufficient in the pounding to reduce them to a paste, and when quite fine add half a pint more water; mix, and strain through a tamis cloth twisted tight by two persons: receive the milk which comes from the almonds into a basin; what is left in the cloth must be pounded again with some of the water, and strained. Continue this until the whole of the milk is obtained, and the water, is consumed; then clarify, and boil the sugar to the crack; add the milk of almonds, and reduce it to the pearl; then strain it again, add the orange-flower water, and stir it well until nearly cold; when cold, bottle; shake the bottles well for several succeeding days, if you see it at all inclined to separate, which will prevent it.

Sirop de Pistache is made in the same manner, colouring it green with a little spinach.

Syrup of Coffee. --Fresh roasted Mocha coffee two pounds, water one quart, sugar three pounds eight ounces. Grind the coffee in mill, and make a cold infusion with the water in a close vessel; let it stand for a day, then filter it through blotting paper; add the sugar, and finish in the bain-marie.

Syrup of Rum Punch. --Jamaica rum one quart, the juice of twelve or fourteen lemons, sugar four pounds. Rub off the yellow rind of half of the lemons on a piece of the sugar, and scrape it off with a knife into a basin as it imbibes the oil; clarify and boil the remaining portion to the crack; strain the juice into the rum, and add to it the sugar with that on which the peels were rubbed; mix together, and give it one boil. The yellow rind of the peels may be cut off very thin, and infused in the spirit for some days before the syrup is made.

Brandy and Wine Syrups may be made in the same manner.
SECTION II.--CRYSTALLIZED SUGAR, AND ARTICLES CRYSTALLIZED, COMMONLY CALLED CANDIES.

Crystallized or Candied Sugar. --Provide a round mould, smaller at the bottom than the top, of any size you may think proper, made either of tin or copper, with holes pierced round the sides about three inches asunder, so as to fasten strings across in regular rows from the top to the bottom, leaving sufficient room for the sugar to crystallize on each string without touching, or it will form a complete mass; paste paper round the outside to prevent the syrup from running through the holes. Have the mould prepared, and let it be clean and dry; take sufficient clarified syrup to fill the mould, and boil it to the degree of crystallization or the feather, and add a little spirit of wine; remove it from the fire, and let it rest until a thin skin is formed on the surface, which you must carefully remove with a skimmer; then pour it into the mould, and place it in the hot closet, where you let it remain undisturbed for eight or nine days, at 90 degrees of heat, or half that time at 100; then make a hole, and drain off the superfluous sugar into a pan placed below to receive it; let it drain quite dry, which will take about twelve hours; then wash off the paper from the mould with warm water, place it near the fire, and keep turning it to warm it equally all round; then turn it up and strike the mould rather hard upon the table, when the sugar will relieve itself and come out: put it on a stand or sieve in the closet, raise the heat to 120 degrees, and let it remain until perfectly dry. Particular attention should be paid to the heat of the closet, which must be kept regular and constant, and this can easily be accomplished at a small expense with many of the patent stoves which are now in general use, and also without causing any dust. A Fahrenheit's or Reaumur's thermometer should be so placed that the heat may at all times be ascertained.

This may be coloured with prepared cochineal, or other liquid colour, or by grinding any particular colour with the spirits of wine, and adding it to the syrup before it comes to the feather.

Fruits to Crystallize. --Have a square or round tin box, smaller at the bottom than the top, with wire gratings made to fit at convenient distances, and having a hole with a tube or pipe to admit a cork, and drain off the syrup. Take any of the preserved fruits wet (which see), drain from them the syrup, and dip them in lukewarm water to take off any syrup which may adhere to them; dry them in the closet; when dried, place them in layers on the gratings, side by side, so as not to touch each other; continue in this manner with any sort of fruit until the box is full; then fix the whole with a weight, to keep it steady. Boil a sufficiency of clarified sugar to fill the box to the degree of crystallization or the blow, add a little spirit of wine, and remove it from the fire. When a thin skin has formed on the top, remove it carefully with a skimmer, and pour the sugar into the mould; place it in the closet at 90 degrees of heat, and let it remain for twelve hours, then drain off the syrup into a pan from the tube at bottom, and let it remain in the closet until quite dry; then turn them out by striking the box hard upon the table, separate them carefully, and put them in boxes with paper between each layer. When different fruits, paste, knots, &c., are mixed together indiscriminately, it is termed mille-fruit candy. Any sort of fruit or gum pastes, when thoroughly dried, may be crystallized in the same manner. When the syrup is drained off, if you find the size of the crystals is not large enough, another lot of syrup may be prepared and poured over it; let it remain in the closet for seven or eight hours, then drain and finish as before.

If small pieces of stick are pushed down at each corner, or in any other vacancy, when you fill the mould, one of these may be withdrawn at any time you may wish to ascertain the size of the crystals, which will save the trouble of giving a second charge of sugar.

Crystallized Chocolate. --Prepare some sugar, as in the preceding articles, and pour it into the box. When a thin crust is formed on the top, make a hole on one side, and push the articles previously shaped with chocolate, as for drops, gently under with your finger; put them in the stove to crystallize, as other articles. After the syrup is drained off, and the articles dried, they must remain until quite cold before being turned out, as the chocolate continues soft for some time.

Liqueur Rings, Drops, and other Devices. --These are all made after the same manner. A square box is necessary, which you fill with very dry starch powder. Sugar, powdered very fine and dried, will answer the same purpose. The depth of the box should be suited to the articles intended to be made. Shake the box, or pass a knife repeatedly through the powder, that it may be solid; smooth the surface with a straight piece of wood; have a thin piece of flat board, on which is fastened a number of little devices, about an inch asunder, and to suit the width of the box; these may be made either of lead, plaster, or wood, in the form of rings, diamonds, stars, bottles, scissors, harps, shoes, or any other form your fancy may suggest; make the impressions in the powder in regular rows, until the box is full; then prepare some sugar as for the preceding articles, boiling it to the blow, and flavouring it with any sort of spirit or liqueur, such as brandy, rum, noyau, Maraschino, cinnamon, rosolis, &c., colouring the syrup accordingly. It should be prepared in a pan with a lip to it. When a thin skin has formed on the top, place a cork in the lip of the pan, but not to close it, allowing a space for the sugar to run out, the cork being merely to keep back the skin; then fill the impressions you made in the powder and place them in the stove at 90 degrees; let them remain a day, then take them out, and their surfaces will be found quite hard and solid; brush the powder from them with a light brush, when they may either be painted, crystallized, or piped. Many of these bon-bons are beautifully piped and coloured to represent dogs, horses, costumes, and theatrical characters; the fur on the robes is imitated with white or coloured sugar in coarse grains, and lace-work is done by means of a pin.

Liqueur drops are made with the impression of half a ball to any required size, or other forms. If the flat parts of two are moistened, put together, and dried in the stove, they will form drops perfectly round.

To form a Chain with Liqueur Rings. --Have some moulds to form the impressions in powder, as in the preceding, in the shape of the links of a chain; fill them with syrup at the blow, as before, and put them in the stove for a day; when they are hard and fit to be taken out, place them on their ends in the powder; have another mould of a link in two halves, and with this form the impression between each of the others so as to make it complete; then fill them, and finish as before.
SECTION IV.--CANDY--BONBON--CONSERVE.

THE articles that come under this head are made by the sugar being brought to the ball, when it is grained by rubbing it against the sides of the pan. From this all fancy articles are made, such as fruit eggs, cups, vases, &c.

Ginger Candy. --Take clarified syrup and boil it to the ball; flavour it either with the essence of ginger or the root in powder; then with a spoon or spatula rub some of it against the side of the pan until you perceive it turn white; pour it into small square tins with edges, or paper cases, which have been oiled or buttered, and put it in a warm place, or on a hot stone, that it may become dappled. The syrup should be coloured yellow, while boiling, with a little saffron.

Peppermint, Lemon and Rose Candy are made after the same manner, colouring the lemon with saffron, and the rose with cochineal.

Coltsfoot or Horehound Candy. --Make a strong infusion of the herbs, (See Infusions under the head of Syrups,) and use it for dissolving the sugar, instead of taking syrup; raw sugar is mostly used for those candies. Boil it to the ball, grain it and finish as ginger candy.

Artificial Fruit, Eggs, &c. --Prepare moulds with plaster of Paris from the natural objects you wish to represent; make them in two, three, or more pieces, so as to relieve freely, and have a hole at one end into which the sugar may be poured; let them be made so as each part may be fitted together exactly; and for this purpose make two or three round or square indentions on the edge of one part, so that the corresponding piece when cast, will form the counterpart, which may at all times be fitted with precision. Let the object you would take the cast from be placed in a frame made either of wood or of stiff paper, embed a part of it in fine sand, soft pipe-clay, or modelling wax, leaving as much of the mould exposed as you wish to form at one time, and oil it with sweet oil; mix some of the prepared plaster with water, to the consistency of thick cream, and pour over it; when this is set, proceed with the other portions in the same manner until it is complete. Let them dry and harden for use.

Take a sufficient quantity of syrup, (clarified with charcoal or animal black) to fill the mould, and boil it to the small ball; rub some of it against the side to grain it; when it turns white, pour it into the moulds: take them out when set, and put them into the stove at a moderate heat to dry. The moulds must be soaked for an hour or two in cold water previously to their being used, which will be found better than oiling them, as it keeps the sugar delicately white, which oil does not. Colour your articles according to nature with liquid colours (see Colours) and camel's-hair pencils, or the usual pigments sold in boxes may be used. If a gloss is required, the colours should be mixed with a strong solution of gum Arabic or isinglass, to the desired tint. Eggs and fruit may be made as light and apparently as perfect as nature, by having moulds to open in two, without any orifice for filling them. Fill one half with the grained sugar, immediately close the mould, and turn it round briskly that it may be covered all over equally. To accomplish this, it is necessary to have an assistant that it may be done as speedily as possible.

Burnt Almonds. --Take some fine Valencia or Jordan almonds, and sift all the dust from them; put a pint of clarified syrup into the pan for each pound of almonds, and place it with the almonds on the fire; boil to the ball, then take it off and stir the mixture well with a spatula that the sugar may grain and become almost a powder, whilst each almond has a coating. Put them into a coarse wire or cane sieve, and sift all the loose sugar from them, and also separate those which stick together. When cold, boil some more clarified syrup to the feather, put in the almonds, give them two or three boils in it, take them from the fire, and stir them with the spatula as before, until the sugar grains; sift and separate them, and keep them in glasses or boxes. A third coat may be given them in the same manner as the second, if they are required large.

Burnt Almonds--Red. --The same as the last, using prepared cochineal to colour the syrup whilst it is boiling.

Filberts and Pistachios. --These are done the same as burnt almonds, but they are usually denominated prawlings, the nuts being only put into the sugar for two or three minutes before it is taken from the fire, and stirred.

Common Burnt Almonds. --These are made with raw sugar and skimmings, if you have any. Put some water with the sugar to dissolve it; when it is near boiling, add the almonds, and let them boil in it until it comes to the small ball; or when the almonds crack, take them from the fire, and stir them with a spatula until the sugar grains and becomes nearly a powder; put them into a sieve, and separate the lumps.

Orange Prawlings. --Take four or five Havanna oranges, and cut off the peel in quarters, or small lengths; take off all the pith or white part of the peel, leaving only the yellow rinds, and cut in small pieces, about an inch long, and the size of pins. Have about a pint of clarified sugar boiling on the fire; when it comes to the blow, put in the pieces of peel, and let them boil until the sugar attains the small ball; take them off, and stir them with the spatula until the sugar grains and hangs about them; sift off the loose sugar; when cold, separate and keep them in a dry place.

Lemon Prawlings. --As orange.
SECTION V.--CRACK AND CARAMEL.

THESE comprehend all articles in sugar-boiling which eat short and crisp. They are used for all sorts of ornamental sugar-work. The rules and observations already laid down under this head must be particularly noted, especially those for greasing the sugar so as to prevent its graining.

Barley Sugar. --Boil some clarified loaf sugar to the crack or caramel degree, using a little acid to prevent its graining: pour it out on a marble slab, which has been previously oiled or buttered. Four pieces of iron, or small square bars, are usually employed to form a sort of bay to prevent the sugar running off the stone, which is necessary in large casts. When the edges get set a little, remove the bars, and turn them over into the centre. This is occasionally flavoure