Title: Cooking in old Créole days. La cuisine créole à l'usage des petits ménages.
Author: Eustis, Célestine.
Publisher: New York, R. H. Russell
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[Illustration: The seal of the Beatrice V. Grant Stand Fast Endowment Fund.]
BEATRICE V. GRANT
MSU 1929 - 1965
PROFESSOR of FOODS & NUTRITION
COLLECTOR of RARE COOKERY BOOKS
Her private collection of rare cookery books was donated by her sister, Dr. Rhoda Grant, to the MSU Libraries, May 1984.
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Mary Mumsey
property[unclear] of the author
Célestine Eustis
1911
[Editorial note: Handwritten Inscription]
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THE STRENGTH OF THE
NATION IS IN THE
HANDS OF THE COOK.
FEED A MAN WELL, HE
WILL WORK WELL, HE
WILL FIGHT WELL
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[Illustration: An illustration of a carriage being driven by a man with a whip and four horses. There is a sign in the background saying NORD and points to the right.]
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[Illustration: An illustration of a music sheet with music bars, notes, and the words to the song under them.]
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La Cuisine Créole
à l'Usage des Petits Ménages
by
Célestine Eustis
with an introduction by
S. Wier Mitchell
Illustrated
[Illustration: There is an illustration of an angel under the word illustrated above.]
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> DEDICACE
Si ce petit ouvrage peut être utile à mes chers neveux et chères nièces, j'aurais la satisfaction de savoir que mon temps n'a pas été perdu, en réclamant toute l'indulgence du public pour avoir abusé de sa patience.
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> INDEX
> COOKING IN OLD CREOLE DAYS
Art and Science of Salad Making, 69
Asparagus in the Oven, 46
Asparagus Soup, 47
A Todd Ham, 20
Aunt Anne's Corn-Bread without powder, 52
Aunt Anne's delicious Corn-Bread, 52
Aunt Anne's Hoecake, 53
Baltimore style of making Terrapin Stew without Terrapin, 24
Barley Soup with Celery, 6
Beef Tea, 12
Biscuits made over night, 51
Black Bean Soup, 10
Blanquette of Veal, 34
Bonne Femme Soup, 8
Bouillion à la James Madison, 4
Bread, 78
Brisket of Beef, 19
Buckner Punch, 83
Café Parfait, 84
Calf's Head Soup, 10
Calf's Liver à la Céleste Smith, 35
Candied Orange, 61
Canvasback Duck, 30
Caramel Pudding, 58
Carrots, 44
Chicken Broth, 12
Chicken Casserole, 30
Chicken Croquettes, 32
Chicken Panade, 12
Chicken Pie, 32
Chinese Rice, 14
Chocolate Icing, 68
Chowder for eight Persons, 11
Claret Punch, 83
Codfish à la E'spagnole, 26
Codfish Balls, 25
Codfish Cakes, 25
Cold Tea, 49
Common Cake, 65
Corn Bread, 54
Corn Cake, 54
Corn Meal Bread, 55
Corn Oysters, 48
Corn Pone, 54
Corn Pudding, 60
Couche Couche, 55
Courtbouillion of Fish, 27
Crab Gumbo, 3
Crawfish Bisque, 4
Cream à la Célestine, 56
Crème d'Orge, 1
Cucumber Catsup, 37
Custard Bread, 61
Daube Glacée, 17
Delicate Cake, 65
Delicious Breakfast Dish, 14
Delicious Fish Balls, 25
Delicious Stew, 21
Devilled Crabs, 26
Devilled Crabs--New Orleans Style, 27
Drop Puffs, 64
Dutch Sauce, 34
"Edge Hill" Cooked Apples, 58
"Eggnogg," 83
Egg Plant, 43
Eggs à la Morelle, 48,51
Eggs, Portuguese style, 48
Filet Marine, 19
Flat Cookies, 66
Floating Island, 57
Foods that Steal Flavors, 79
For Broiling Chicken, 31
Fried Carrots, 43
Fruit in Its Own Juice, 62
Gingerbread, 63,66
Ginger Cake, 64
Globe Artichokes, 43
Gofio, 79
Graham Wheatlets, 55
Gumbo Filé, 1,78
Ham fried with Sugar, 20
Hard Custard, 57
Herb Gumbo, 3
Hints for Housekeepers, 76
Hominy Bread and Waffles, 53
Hopping John, 14, 16
How to cook Mushrooms in a Chafing Dish half an hour before serving, 47
How to destroy Flies, 79
How to make a Caramel, 61
How to make a good Soup with what remains from Breakfast, 82
How to make Drip Coffee, 49
How to make Tea, 49
How to roast Ducks, 30
How to serve Chicken, 31
Indian Sponge Cake, 66
Jerusalem Artichokes, 43,46
Jumballaya, 15
Jumballaya à la Créole, 13
Jumballaya (A Spanish Creole dish), 14
Kidney Stew, 21
Leg of Mutton, 20
Leonie Penin's Dry Cake, 65
Leonie's Cake, 66
Loaf Bread, 51
Loaf of Gingerbread, 63
Lobster Sauce, 35
Lucchetti, Fried, 45
Macaroni Pie, 48
Manchester Ice-Cream, 57
Meringue Pudding, 59
Mince-Meat, 61
Molasses Cake, 67
Molasses Gingerbread, 63
"Monica's" way to cook Fish, 28
Monkey Pudding, 59
Mrs. Kelly's delicious Mutton Stew, 21
Mu ffins, 50
New England Chowder, 10
New Orleans Oyster Soup, 9
New Orleans Veal Balls, 36
New Orleans Veal with Oysters, 33
New Orleans way to cook Snipe, 32
Nice cold Dish for Lunch,to be eaten with Salad, 22
Okra Gumbo,2
Okra Hibiscus, 78
Okra Soup, 6
Oyster and Peanut Soup, 9
Oyster Soup, 9
Pancakes, 56
Partridge à la "Uncle John," 28
Plain Boiled Rice, 13
Plain Rice Pudding, 60
Plum Pudding, 58
Pop-Overs, 54
Porcupine Pudding, 59
Potato Balls, 28
Pot au Feu, 5
Potomac Herrings with Roe, 26
Potted Veal, 23
Praline Cocoanut, 62
Praline Pecans, 62
Raw Beef Soup, 12
Riz à la Valencienne, 15
Roast Beef, 18
Rolls, 50
Sally Lunn, 53, 54
Sauce, à la Newberg, for Lobster, 27
Sauce Béarnaise, 34
Sauce Bordelaise, 35
Sauce for Wild Duck, 35
Sauce for Veal Balls, 36
Simple, clear Tomato Soup, 7
Small Sponge Cake, 66
Soda Biscuits, 50
Soft Custard, 57
Sorrel Soup, 6
Soufflé Biscuits, 52
Soup without Meat, 8
Southern Tomato Soup, 7
Spiced Beef, 36
Spinach, 45
Squash, 44
Stewed Tongue for Lunch, 37
Strawberry Shortcake, 64
String Beans, 45
Stuffing for Fowls, 29
Stuffing for Turkeys and Ducks, 28
Swedish Cream, 58
Sweet Potato Buns, 55
Sweet Potatoes, 37,38
Sweet Potato Pudding, 38
Sweet Wafers, 67
Terrapin, 23
Terrapin Stew, 23
The way to tell good Mushrooms from poisonous ones, 47
Thick Water Biscuits, 52
Thin Water Biscuits, 51
To boil a Westphalia Ham, 20
To broil a Steak, 19
To cook and serve Tomatoes, 38
Tomato Curry, 22
Tomatoes, 57
Tomato Soup, 7
To stew Lamb and Peas, 21
Turkey Stuffing, 29
Veal Croquettes, 22
Veal Terrapin, 24
Waffles, 50
Yorkshire Pudding, to serve with Hot Roast Beef, 18
UN PITI DINE CREOLES AUX DELEGUES DE NEW ORLEANS PRESS CLOB..........................87
A SMALL CREOLE DINNER TO THE DELEGATES OF THE NEW ORLEANS PRESS CLUB.................89
A l'Usage des Petits Ménages, 85
Bananes, 106
Bécassines de la Nouvelle Orléans, 100
Blanquette de Veau, 99
Brandade de Morue, 101
Calas, 108
Cervelles de Mouton Pandées, 106
Cervelles de Veau ou Mouton au Beurre Noir, 100
Cornbread, 108
Cô tes de Homard, 101
Crabes Farcis, 101
Crème à la Glace à la Célestine, 111
Daube Glacée à la Créole de Madame Rouzan, née Olivier 94
Daube Glacéede Madame Eustis, Mère, 97
Farce pour Pâtés ou pour des Dindes ou pour des Volailles, 99
Flan aux Cerises, 111
Foie de Veau à la Céleste, 98
Fromage à la Crème, 110
Gateau Praline ou Ile Flottante, 112
Gateau Sec de Léonie Penin, 109
Gombo de Crabes, 92
Gombo Févis, 91
Gombo Filé, 91
Gombo Zherbes, 92
Gratin aux Pommes de Terre, 105
Grillades de Veau, de Madame Josephine Micaud, 98
Haricots Verts, 104
Haricots Verts, Maî;tre d'Hôtel, 104
Jambalaya, 94
La Saccamité, 106
Maryland Biscuits, 109
Muffins, 108
Oseille, 105
Pain Blanc, 108
Pain Noir, 109
Patates Douces au Four, 104
Perdrix aux Choux, 99
Petit Avis aux Ménagères, 112
Pommes Cuites à la Thomas Jefferson, 111
Pommes de Terre Soufflées, 105
Potage Marinière, 93
Pour Fond de Cuisine, 102
Pour Faire au Bon Café, 113
Recette de la Genoise, 126
Riz à l'Anglaise, 111
Riz à la Valencinnes, 94
Rognons de Mouton Sautés, 100
Salade à la Duc Morny, 106
Sauce Béarnaise, 103
Sauce Blanche, 103
Sauce Bordelaise, 103
Sauce Hubert, 103
Sauce Tartare, 102
Sauce Tomate, 102
Soupe à la Julienne, 93
Soups à l'Oseille, 92
Un Pudding de Mais, 110
Z'Affaire Cabri c'est pas Z'Affaire Mouton, 112
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> LA CUISINE CREOLE
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> ILLUSTRATIONS
A YOUNG DARING FROG DRIVER ON THE DU BROCA PLANTATION, WEST BATON ROUGE, LA.. Frontispiece
BAMBOULA..................................................................... Facing p.10
TURKEY WITH THE WOODEN LEGS.................................................. " 22
NURSE MéRANCE OF THE DESTREHAN PLANTATION, JUST ABOVE NEW ORLEANS..... " 32
THE ONE-EYED BOY AND HIS ONION STEAL ........................................ " 48
SAVANNE...................................................................... " 64
THE CALLAS GIRL.............................................................. " 94
THE OLD FRENCH CHEF SELLING MUSTARD IN NEW ORLEANS........................... " 108
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> INTRODUCTION
A friend of mine, in the South, once said to me, that the surrender at Appomatox had brought about two serious calamities--an end to duelling and the disappearance of the colored cook. We may at least agree with him that the latter result is a matter deeply to be deplored by all who, like myself, remember the marvellous skill of the Southern cooks. I used to be of opinion that the frying-pan should be our national emblem, so complete was its culinary despotism in New England and the West; indeed, when once I was at Marquette and Duluth, buying a camp outfit, there was not a gridiron for sale in either town. But in the hands of a colored cook even the frying-pan ceased to be an instrument for producing dyspepsia; and what other black art there was in the kitchens where the dark mammys reigned, who now can say? It was a rule-of-thumb business which was never written, save in some old-time receipt book, and was literally handed down from one generation to another.
The well-mannered colored folk, with aristocratic tastes, still existed in my native city when I was young. One of them, who was formerly my nurse, was always sent for to cook the terrapin when there was a dinner party. She turned the other servants out of the kitchen, and performed her kindly incantations alone! North of us, no one has ever been able to cook terrapin, which accounts for many things. As a race, we are certainly not gifted with culinary
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talent, nor have I ever heard of an attempt to patent a receipt or a new salad. It was therefore a great pleasure to see the little book in which my friend has preserved some of the famous receipts of the Creole kitchen. When, too, I saw, and indeed heard, the gay songs which were considered needful to be sung in the making of a Gumbo or of a Jumballaya, I felt that this was an addition to the business of the cook which must have lifted it to the level of the Arts we call Fine; for surely the mingling of music with a sauce or a salad dressing is a refinement of which no cordon bleu has ever dreamed! I have heard of but one other use of song in the preparation of food. A certain bishop, staying in a modest farmhouse, was struck with the fact that, just before breakfast, he heard the cook singing a well-known hymn. On expressing his satisfaction at this act of early devotion, he was told she had discovered that exactly the time needed to sing two verses was that which was required to boil an egg. I am sure there are many who will be charmed by the pretty little songs in the Creole patois of the far Southern kitchen, and will in a double sense appreciate the taste of the receipts, and the effort to preserve the folk-lore of the Southern cook. As I recall her, in Virginia, she was usually a fat woman of middle age, with a gay bandana kerchief about her head--proud of her art, somewhat despotic, and usually known as Aunty.
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LA CUISINE CREOLE A L'USAGE DES PETITS MENAGES
De tous les côtés mes amis me demandent de recettes de la cuisine créole. On se souvient encore des délicieuses dindes truffées de la "Rivière Rouge" à moitié sauvages, engraissées aux pacannes et mangées, rue de la Victoire, chez ma sainte et bonne mère.--Un Anglaise demande la recette d'un plat d'épinards, qui lui a valu son cœur. Un français célèbre se souvient d'un délicieux rôti de veau, qui est devenu presqu' historique. Un Russe, quoiquehabitant Paris, ne peut oblier des perdrix étouffées aux tomates... Une élégante de New Yorka des souvenirs inoubliables dun riz á la Valenciennes, gouté á Biarritz sur la côte des Basques, en vue des belles Montagnes d'Espagne! Une autre élégante, m'a avoué qu'elle se mourait d'envie de manger du riz sec, comme les créoles seules savent le cuire. C'eût été fâcheux de la laisser mourir de faim dans son beau Palais.--Un musicien célèbre soupire après des œfs à la Portugaise, capable le lui faire manquer une inspiration musicale. Une jeune fille réclame à grands cris des œfs à la morelle, une autre ne peut se consoler de ne plus manger du couchcouche ou couscousse.
Brillat Savarin dit: "qu'il n'y a que les gens d'esprit qui savent manger," "qu'on nait rôtisseur." Alors à moins d'être spirituel ou inspiré de Dieux, on ne saurait goûter ce modeste petit ouvrage, qui resterait une énigme pour bien des lecteurs; mais l'art de savoir manger et de rôtir, ainsi
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que de faire la cuisine peut s'acquérir avec un peu de patience, beaucoup d'observation et passablement de soin.--Je ne me propose pas d'écrire un ouvrage culinaire--que Dieu m'en préserve!--mais de griffonner seulement à la hâte et au hasard le recette de quelques bons plats créoles et bourgeois, que j'ai en la bonne chance d'apprendre à faire en fretant dans de vielles recttes et en causant avec les vieilles commères d'autrefois.
Souvent ou demande ce que c'est qu'un gombo créole? c'est un mets indien dont ils se régalaient généralment un jour de noce et dont nous jouissions, avant la querre, dans les réunions intimes après une danse. Il peut se faire avec du gibier, de la volaille, de la dinde, de veau, des rogaatons, à la rigueur même un hibou.
Il découle de ce mets national parmi les créole, qui leur est si familier que, ce terme "gombo" est devenu une expression générique très-importante au figuré, par la varieté même de sa composition et par conséquent son impénétrabilité une foise fait, exemple: en littérature un "gombomêlé" est une grosse affaire très-compliquée, relevant souvent de différends dans les familles nombreuses ou parmi un grand cercle d'amis, et rendue très-confuse.
Ne soyez pas étonnés de ces quelques notes de musique, c'est le piment de la sauce. Quand les nègres travaillent bien, ils sont contents et fiers de leur ouvrage et expriment leur contentement en chantant, c'est l'éloquence de leurs sentiments.
Les fines herbes sont le parfum de la cuisine, mais il faut en user avec la même discrétion que les parfums--ils
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sont: oignons, persil, cerfeuil, civette, estragon, feuilles de laurier--afin de laisser à chaque mets son goût particulier ou son individualité.--Le secret de la bonne cuisine est: la plus exquise propreté, avoir les méilleurs ingrédients, un beurre frais, la meilleure huile d'olive, les œufs très-frais--et beaucoup de temps pour tout préparer avec soin; un bon feu égal, des braises, pas de flammes--le triomphe des gargotiers! La bouillotte est aussi une ennemie fatale de la bonne cuisine; il faut s'en méfier. Un général russe disait que l'eau était si désagréable dans les bottes, qu'est-ce que ça devait être dans l'estomac! Je n'ai qu'à regarder le feu d'une cuisinière pour savoir quelle espèce de cordon bleu elle est. J'ai entendu à un homme d'esprit dire: que si l'on pendait un gargotier une fois par mois, peut-être qu'an bout de l'année on parviendrait à avoir de bons cuisiniers. La cuisine est une grave affaire; la santé de l'humanité en dépend; le bonheur de l'intérieur y est intéressé, et la justice pourrait s'en mêler.
La base de la cuisine créole est le roux. Il faut s'appliquer particulièrement à bien le faire; autrement vos plats seraient fadasses et trop gras. En voici à peu près la recette; mais la pratique seule en donnera l'expérience. Le goût en est le guide pour l'assaisonnement c'est là qu'est le talent de l'artiste, comme le sentiment de la poésie, de la musique, de la peinture, autrement dit, le génie.
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> COOKING IN OLD CREOLE DAYS
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> COOKING IN OLD CREOLE DAYS
GUMBO FILé |
CREME D'ORGE |
GUMBO FILé |
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3 1-2 quarts of cold water, let it simmer on back of range about six hours, strain soup and skim off all grease, cut up white meat of chicken and put in stock with a quart or more of oysters; add salt, cayenne pepper, white pepper. When at boiling point sprinkle in, or sift in, powdered filet enough to thicken it.--MRS. EUGENIA PHILLIPS.
For very many years Mrs. Phillips had the most elegant table and the most delicious dishes in Washington, D.C. No one could rival her in taste and daintiness; her hospitality was boundless.
Leek and potato soup
is another of the same French-woman's dishes. Cut several leeks, or, if they cannot be had, an onion or two, into pieces, and fry them without browning in butter. Add potatoes cut into dice and a seasoning of salt and pepper, and boil. When they are soft push them through a colander, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour and a tablespoonful of butter. For two small onions four potatoes and a quart of water will be wanted. Instead of using the water in which the potatoes have boiled, milk may be used.
OKRA GUMBO |
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can of okra or the fresh okra, and chop it up a bit. Put it in a saucepan with a little water and let it simmer a quarter of an hour, stirring it all the time. Then add to it either six fresh tomatoes, or half a can of tomatoes, and let it cook on a slow fire for an hour, uncovered. When your gumbo has been on the fire the two hours and a half, you take it off to cool, and skim all the grease off. Then you put it back in the saucepan and add your okra and tomatoes and let it simmer slowly for an hour or until the okra is thoroughly cooked. Serve hot, and eat it with dry rice served in a separate dish.--MME. EUSTIS, MéRE.
CRAB GUMBO |
HERB GUMBO |
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colander, chop them all together on a nice clean board, as you do spinach. Fry a dozen small pieces of ham cut in pieces an inch long and half an inch wide, and also half a chicken cut in pieces, or a piece of veal, say half a pound. Add a cup of water and let it simmer three quarters of an hour or until all are soft. Then add your herbs. Let them simmer together for a quarter of an hour. If it looks too thick add a few tablespoonfuls of water. It must have the consistency of a thick puree. To be served hot, and eaten with dry rice.--JOSEPHINE NICAUD.
CRAWFISH BISQUE |
Who has been for over forty years in Ambassador Eustis' family.
BOUILLON A LA JAMES MADISON |
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The next morning strain into a large bowl. If in a hurry set bowl in cold water, otherwise put in a celler or on ice. Remove the grease very carefully. Cut up fine, size of dice, three pounds of rump of beef, take two eggs and break them over the cut meat, yolk and white. Stir freely. Add celery, salt and pepper, pour the bouillon on it, settle it on the fire, stir until the froth rises. Skim off very carefully, strain off through a nice clean cloth or flannel. Set aside for use. When ready to serve, warm the quantity desired, throw in small pieces of celery, cover closely, throw a bunch of chervil and a glass of good sherry in the soup according to taste.--Cook, born in James Madison's family.
POT AU FEU |
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oven, or drop in a poached egg, one for every person, if your dinner is a little short.
These receipts were given to me by an old colored cook who was brought up in James Madison's family, and she said they were served on Mr. Madison's table when he entertained the distinguished guests of his day.
SORREL SOUP |
BARLEY SOUP WITH CELERY |
OKRA SOUP |
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pint of chopped Irish potatoes. Season with salt, green pepper, or cayenne, chopped celery and onion. Boil in a porcelain kettle at least five hours, stirring frequently with a silver spoon, or new wooden spoon, or the soup will become dark. The gallon must be maintained by adding boiling water at intervals as required. This should result in a rich, thick soup, such as is liked in the South. Some cooks prefer to boil meat and vegetables together, removing the meat when tender, cutting it into pieces, and returning it to the soup a few minutes before serving.--MRS. WILLIAM C. HILL.
SIMPLE, CLEAR, TOMATO SOUP |
TOMATO SOUP |
SOUTHERN TOMATO SOUP |
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the soup; press the tomatoes through a sieve, add to them one cucumber, peeled and cut small, one large onion sliced, one dozen okras (also sliced), a five cent marrowbone and the water drained from the tomatoes. Simmer for three hours, and just before sending to table thicken with a tablespoonful of flour wet with cold water. Season with salt, cayenne and three pats of butter.
BONNE FEMME SOUP |
SOUP WITHOUT MEAT |
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OYSTER AND PEANUT SOUP |
OYSTER SOUP |
NEW ORLEANS OYSTER SOUP |
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slowly for half an hour. Then put in a little parsley. Add your oysters a quarter of an hour before serving, and small pieces of fried bread or biscuits. A few minutes before serving cayenne pepper can be added to taste, also vermicelli instead of crackers, or small green onions.--JOSEPHINE NICAUD.
BLACK BEAN SOUP |
CALF'S HEAD SOUP |
--"UNCLE JOHN"--the best chef in South Carolina, Mr. Le Garee's and Mrs. Phoenix's cook.
NEW ENGLAND CHOWDER |
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[Illustration: An illustration of a music sheet with music bars, notes, and the words to the song under them.]
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[Illustration: There is an illustration of a girl in a dress dancing with a plate of food under her foot.]
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small squares about the size of dice, and fry quite brown. Lay in the same pan alternate layers of thin sliced potatoes first, then slices of fish, then broken water crackers, small fried pork, shreds of raw onion, black pepper and salt to suit the taste. Continue the layers until you have used up your material. Pour over it the pork fat from the scraps and half a pint of water, to keep from burning at the bottom. Close the saucepan tight and set on the fire. Cook slowly, without stirring, for forty-five minutes, when it is ready for the table. As some fish cook drier than others, if you do not find the chowder thin enough to serve well in tureen, add some fresh milk just before taking up, and let it come to a boil.--PARKER HOUSE, Boston, Sept. 23, 1873.
CHOWDER FOR EIGHT PERSONS |
--Compliments of MR. PETER MARIE.
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CHICKEN PANADE |
RAW BEEF SOUP |
CHICKEN BROTH |
BEEF TEA |
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lump of ice, the size of your fist, in the centre of the beef, and the remainder of the beef laid over it. Let it stand back on the range and simmer until all the juice is extracted, then let it have one boil up. Only season as much as you intend using at once. The remainder can be kept on ice and seasoned as required with salt, pepper, celery salt, or to suit the taste of the patient.
JUMBALLAYA A LA CREOLE |
PLAIN BOILED RICE |
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CHINESE RICE |
"Mon Repos," Aiken, S.C. --MISS EUSTIS.
HOPPING JOHN |
JUMBALLAYA A SPANISH CREOLE DISH |
DELICIOUS BREAKFAST DISH |
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JUMBALLAYA |
RIZ A LA VALENCIENNE |








