Title: La Cuisine Française. French Cooking for Every Home. Adapted to American Requirements.
Author: Tanty, François
Publisher: Chicago: Baldwin, Ross & Co.
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[Illustration: A seal featuring a crown sitting atop a ribbon, which is tied at the bottom to encircle a cross. The ribbon is inscribed with the numbers "1877" and "1878".]
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LA CUISINE FRANçAISE
FRENCH COOKING
FOR
EVERY HOME.
ADAPTED TO AMERICAN REQUIREMENTS.
>
BY
FRANçOIS TANTY,
LATE "CHEF DE CUISINE" OF THE EMPEROR NAPOLEON III AND OF THE
IMPERIAL FAMILY OF RUSSIA. LATE PROPRIETOR OF THE "GRAND
HOTEL" AND THE RESTAURANT DUSSAUX AT ST. PETERS-
BURG. PURVEYOR TO THE FRENCH AND RUSSIAN
ARMIES. MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL
ORDER OF THE RED CROSS.
(RUSSIA.)
PUBLISHERS,
MASONIC TEMPLE,
CHICAGO
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> INTRODUCTION.
MY dear readers, my intention is not to publish in the following pages an extensive volume, full of long and complicated recipes, but to tell you how, at a small expense, cooking may be made not only substantial and wholesome, but also appetizing and palatable. "The Creator by obliging men to eat to sustain life"--says Brillat Savarin--"invites him by the appetite and rewards him by the pleasure;" but to have real pleasure while at the table, and this pleasure is of every age, it is necessary that the meal presented to you should please at the same time the smell, the taste and the view.
"A ce propos" I cannot protest enough against the custom so general in the United States to give to the table only the necessary time and to eat like a locomotive taking water, by doing which you expose yourself to the various stomach diseases which make so rapidly the fortune of the doctors and druggists.
To this my male readers will certainly respond: "We are so busy, we haven't time;" well, let us excuse them for taking the least time possible at lunch; business is business and the lunch not an important meal, but in many cases the one to blame for the hastening of dinner is the housewife who does not give to the dinner all the care it requires.
It is certainly not through lack of good will, because the Americans love home and do their utmost to make it comfortable and attractive, but a good cook is a rare and expensive blessing here and sometimes the mistress of the house does not know anything about cooking.
Why does she not consult one of the numerous books written on the matter? There are certainly many of them; but unfortunately the great majority are intelligible only to professional cooks, because the chief object of the authors has been to gain reputation among their fellow cooks.
My manner of procedure will be entirely different; wishing above all to be clear and practical, therefore I will not hesitate to simplify the recipe of a dish, while keeping its consecrated name; it will be perhaps
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a little less refined, but quite as palatable and after all will be feasible for all housekeepers, providing they take the trouble of following my advice.
Now let us begin at the beginning, that is to indicate how a "Menu" shall be arranged.
A family dinner is essentially composed of:
A soup.
A fish or meat with sauce and vegetable called "Entree."
A roast, meat, poultry or game.
A vegetable of the season, dried or preserved called "Entremet" (side dish).
A sweet dish, ice cream, or some pastry.
Cheese and fruit.
Providing the dinner becomes more fashionable, you should serve two kinds of soup, a clear one and a puree or cream, from which the guest may choose; and increase the number of entrees and entremets.
A last advice before giving some examples of menus: To give pleasure a dinner should have variety, and consequently you must avoid serving the same dish or sauce twice, palatable as it may be; and as a rule a dish with white sauce should follow a dish with red or brown sauce; for instance in the second family menu given below we could not place "fillets of sole," with shrimp sauce, after the "Andalousian soup," both being red, nor after the "cream of fowl," of the holiday dinner, a fish with "Hollandaise sauce,"both being white; that will injure at once the eye and the palate of au epicure.
There are now to start with two quite simple family dinners:
SOUP.
Stock soup--Clear.
ENTREE (meat).
Chateaubriand--Brown.
Fried Potatoes.
ENTREMET.
Mushrooms on Toast--White.
ROAST.
Roast Fowl--Brown.
SWEET DISH.
Peach à la Condé--White.
SOUP.
Andalousian Soup--Red.
ENTREE (fish).
Salmon Trout.
With Hollandaise Sauce--White.
Boiled Potatoes.
ROAST.
Leg of Lamb with Mint Sauce.--Brown.
ENTREMET.
Croquettes of Oatmeal a l'Indienne--Red.
SWEET DISH.
Eggs a la Neige--White.
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The following menu is for a holiday, and by adding one or two entremets it may serve for a banquet:
SOUPS.
Cream of Fowl--White.
Printanier--Clear and brown.
HORS D'OEUVRES.
Radishes, Olives and Anchovies.
ENTREES.
Fillets of Trout with Shrimp sauce.--Red.
Boiled potatoes.
Saddle of Mutton Richelieu--Brown.
ENTREMET.
Celery a la Moelle--White.
ROAST.
Roast Snipe on Toast--Brown.
Salad.
SWEET DISHES.
Pudding Diplomate--Yellow.
Pistachio Ice Cream with Cakes--Green.
FRUITS.
[Illustration: An illustration of three servers carrying trays of food. A decorative device featuring a shield, sword, and axe wraps around the bottom of the page.]
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> HOW TO SET A TABLE.
AT first glance nothing pleases the eye of a guest more than a well set table, that is to say, where elegance is combined with good taste. On that matter Americans need very little advice, because, as a rule, they are very fond of fine linen and decorations of fruit and flowers.
Therefore, we will give only practical hints, taking as example a dinner quite fashionable, leaving to the housewife the care of simplifying the same for family dinners.
The table should be spacious enough to avoid the crowding of dishes or covers, and to permit the guests being comfortably seated.
There are many ways of decorating a table, the following being the one our experience has proven to be the best:
Place a center piece of flowers, around which (and according to the size of the table) may be disposed smaller pieces of flowers, fruits, bon-bons, etc., and also the "Hors d'Oeuvres" served in special small dishes.
Candle light being more fashionable than gas, and also more beautifying for the ladies, candelabra should be placed in sufficient number.
Before each plate place the necessary number of glasses, of different sizes, according to the wines that are to be served; this number not to surpass five, viz:
A glass for water.
A glass for white wine, claret and burgundy.
A glass for madeira, sherry and sweet dessert wines.
A glass for Rhine wine (if served).*
A glass or cup for champagne.
Don't fill the water glass before the dinner, but place decanters and crystal bowls filled with pieces of ice, within the easy reach of the guests.
At the right of each cover the knife, fork and spoon (the former having a sharp steel blade). These should be changed with each course.
Before the cover a set of smaller knife, fork and spoon for the sweet dishes and dessert. This last knife should have a silver blade.
*This glass is usually green or amber.
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The napkin should be of good size, placed on the plate, folded, with a small roll between the folds.
Between each cover should be a salt cellar; for the pepper the best is to have some pepper mills with white whole pepper.
Before each cover, and supported by the glass should be a "Menu" (bill of fare) printed or hand-written; it will prove more convenient if on each card you write the name of the particular guest who will occupy the place.
The meats should be carved in the kitchen, but the parts put together in a way to represent the whole piece; they will be distributed by the host or the hostess, or, better, the dish shall be presented at the left of every guest (the ladies first) so that each may serve himself, with the right hand, according to his taste.
In every dinner "á la Française" wine is served; the number, kinds and quality varying of course according to the importance of the dinner.
This is the general order in which they are served, viz:
After the soup.--A strong dry wine such as madeira, or sherry.
With the fish.--A white dry wine such as Sauternes, Chablis, Chateau d'Yquem, Rhine wine, etc.
After the fish and until the roast.--Claret.
With the roast.--Burgundy.
With sweet dishes.--Champagnes or dessert wines such as Tokay, Malaga, Constance, etc.
As a last advice, remember the old adage: "The dinner should never await the guests, but the guests the dinner, because, however well cooked, a dish cannot be warmed over."
[Illustration: An illustration of three pigs playing musical instruments in a barn yard with with ducks, a rooster and rabbit looking on.]
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> PUBLISHER'S NOTES.
IN the translating and collaborating of this excellent work we are indebted to M. Louis Tanty, who attended to the systematic arrangement which tends to so greatly simplify the book that no one can complain of its difficulties, even with the most elaborate dishes.
M. François Tanty, the author, was trained for his profession under Carême, the most noted cook of his day; M. Tanty then became chef of Emperor Napoleon III. of France, leaving this office for that of chef of the imperial family of Russia, where he attained a rank similar to that of Colonel in the Russian army, and was decorated by the late Czar with the Imperial Order of the Red Cross (see back cover page), in consideration of his services as purveyor to the Army and Hospital Corps in the Russian-Turkish Turkish war. M. Tanty was also proprietor of the Grand Hotel and the famous restaurant Dussaux at St. Petersburg, the latter probably the finest in the world. About three years ago he came to America to establish his sons in business, and thus has been able to adapt the requirements of his wonderful cuisine to the American home.
French cooking is proverbial for its elegance, simplicity and cheapness, so this book will prove a genuine economic blessing to the housewife, while developing her culinary skill.
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> THE SOUPS.
[Illustration: An illustration of a woman dressed in Victorian garb preparing a meal in the kitchen.]
In this chapter we will describe the principal soups which can be made easily by any housewife. By modifying some of the recipes: for instance, by replacing in a puree one kind of vegetable for another, by game instead of fowl, or by varying the garnishing, she will have quite an infinite number of soups at her disposal. She should be careful, however, always to follow the general rules given and not to forget that anything printed in italics is always something essential.
The soup beginning the dinner should be at the same time palatable and light, to prepare but not to overload the stomach.
The soups are divided into two classes: the clear ones, whose nature is well indicated by the name, and the mixed or thick ones, that is to say, those into which, as into the puree and cream, enter eggs, flour or starch. Both of these two classes may contain either lean or fat soups.
I. BOUILLON. |
To obtain a very good stock use at the same time beef, veal and fowl, the proportions being 6 parts of beef, 2 of veal, and 1 of fowl.
As the beef gives the greatest part of the strength and nutriment, it
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may be used alone, but it will be at the expense of the aroma and delicacy of the stock.
Moreover, the veal to be used being the shin bone, which is worth a mere nothing, and the fowl old hens, the expense will be scarcely increased.
BEEF.--The parts of the beef to be employed for stock are: the neck, shoulder, shin, ribs, flank, round, legs; add also some marrow bones if you omit the veal.
Don't forget that the meat must be very fresh, otherwise the bouillon will be inferior in every respect.
VEAL.--The part to be employed is the shin bone or hock, which is very rich in gelatinous principles.
FOWL.--Employ old fowls rather than young chickens, the former giving more taste, and having to be boiled quite a long time, it matters not if they are old and tough.
VEGETABLES.--They should be very fresh and pared only when wanted for use.
SALT.--Don't put in too much salt, because in some of its uses the bouillon may be associated with some preparations already salted and this will prove disagreeable.
PROPORTIONS.--1. For a family of five and only for one meal:
Beef and bones.......5 lbs.
Veal.................1/2 hock (about 2 lbs.).
Fowl.................The body of 1 hen.
Vegetables...........2 carrots, 1/2 turnip, 1 onion, some celery.
Water................From 3 to 4 quarts.
Time.--About 5 hours.
2. To prepare 3 gallons of bouillon to be kept for culinary purposes:
Beef................15 lbs
Veal................1 hock (about 5 lbs.).
Fowl*...............1 hen, or the bodies of 2.
Vegetables..........4 carrots, 1 turnip, 1 leek, some celery, 2 onions.
Water...............3 1/2 gallons (about).
Time.--About 5 hours.
REMARKS.--One of the onions should be halved and browned on the stove before being put in the soup to give color and taste. When only one onion is used you brown one of the halves. You may also put one or two cloves in the part of the onion which has not been browned.
[Editorial note: The following note appears at the bottom of page 10 in the original text.]
*Boiled chicken served with a white sauce and rice is a very good family dish; the flesh of the chickens serve also for chicken croquettes.
PREPARATION.--1st. Let the cold water from the faucet run freely over your beef and veal so as to wash them from all impurities. Put
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them in a kettle with the necessary quantity of water,* cold water and not hot or warm, taking care that the water covers the meat well but does not reach higher than two inches from the edge of the kettle. 2d. Allow to boil slowly while scumming until clear. It will prove advantageous to add from time to time one spoonful of cold water, which will facilitate and accelerate the separation of the scum. 3d. When the stock is clear (after half an hour) add your vegetables which should have been pared only a little while before, to be fresh, and let boil for two (2) hours. 4th. Take the veal out of the pot, as all juices will have been extracted from it. add the fowl and let the soup boil slowly for another three (3) hours.† 5th. Take the floating grease off, and pass through a strainer or napkin.
CLARIFICATION.--If it happens that your stock is not clear, having perhaps boiled too quickly, you may clarify it as follows: 1st. Put your kettle on the corner of the range so that, though very hot, it doesn't boil. 2d. Break into a bowl or sauce pan 2 eggs with their shells, beat with 1/2 or 1 pound chopped meat, and 1 or 2 glassesful of water. Add while beating from 3 to 5 glasses of stock and pour the whole in the kettle while stirring. 4th. Pass the stock through a strainer and then through a napkin.
2. CONSOMME. |
PROPORTIONS.--For five persons:
Fowl........1.
Veal hock...1/2.
Vegetables..1 carrot, 1 onions, some celery.
Stock.......3 to 4 quarts.
Time.--About 2 1/2 hours.
PREPARATION.--1st. Cut to pieces the fowl and the veal, let them cook in some butter until a light brown; then put them in a kettle with the necessary amount of stock. 2d. Allow to cook slowly for two hours while scumming from time to time. 3d. Take the floating grease off and pass through a napkin.
*Hot water would obstruct the pores of the meat thus enclosing juices as well as impurities.
†Place your kettle on the corner of the range so that ebullition takes place only on one side of the kettle. In this way it is easier to obtain a clear soup.
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3. CONSOMME DE VOLAILLE. |
4. POT AU FEU. |
Stock.......2 to 8 quarts.
Vegetables..2 carrots, 1 onion, 1/2 head of cabbage, 1 leek, some celery.
Time.--1 3/4 to 2 hours.
PREPARATION.--1st. Slice your vegetables quite fine, let them cook in some boiling water until quite soft and let them drip through a strainer. Put the vegetables in an empty sauce pan or kettle, pour over the necessary quantity of stock and allow to cook slowly for 1 1/2 hours.
5. CROUTE AU POT. |
6. PRINTANIER. |
The carrots and turnips must be as tender as possible, and you cut them in small dices or better in small balls or ovals with a vegetable spoon; the Brussels sprouts and the cauliflower shall not exceed the size of a hazel nut; the green peas shall be chosen as fine as possible and the green beans cut in small lozenges.
PROPORTIONS.--For five persons:
PREPARATION.--Do as for "pot au feu;" for fine dinners use consomme instead of stock.
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7. BRUNOISE. |
8. JULIENNE. |
Stock or consomme.................2 to 3 quarts.
Vegetables........1 carrot, 1/2 turnip, 1/10 cabbage, 1/2 leek. (All very fresh.)
Time.--About 1 3/4 hours.
PREPARATION.--1st. Slice your vegetables into "julienne," that is to say into fine strips about 1 1/2 inches long, put them in a sauce pan with some butter and a teaspoonful of sugar; let cook awhile. 2d. Pour your stock or consomme over and allow to cook for 1 1/2 hours.*
9. POTAGE COLBERT. |
PREPARATION.--Make a printanier or brunoise as above, but with little vegetables and when in the tureen add a poached egg for each person.
NOTE.--There are different methods to poach eggs, but the following is the easiest and best. 1st. Pour your eggs in as much boiling water as will not stop the ebullition and let them boil for six minutes. 2d. Take the eggs out with a skimmer and pour cold water over them. (This will facilitate the shelling of the eggs.) 3d. Take the shells off carefully and put the eggs in the soup only when ready to serve.
10. CONSOMME AU RIZ. |
[Editorial note: The following note appears at the bottom of page 13 in the original text.]
*What distinguishes the "Julienne" from the former soups is that in this one the vegetables are not previously cooked in boiling water.
PREPARATION.--1st. Wash your rice and let it boil in some water till soft. 2d. Let it drip, cool it with cold water and let it drip again.
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3d. Warm your stock or consomme and when ready to serve put the rice in the soup which you must not allow to boil again.
11. CONSOMME AU VERMICELLE. |
PREPARATION.--1st. Break your vermicelli in pieces 1 inch long or the macaroni in pieces 1/2 inch long and let either cook in some boiling water and do as indicated above for the rice. (2d and 3d.)
13. POTAGE MILANAISE. |
Stock or consomme...................2 to 3 quarts.
Macaroni............................1/4 lb.
Rasped Cheese (Parmesan preferred)..2 oz.
PREPARATION.--As for the above, but when ready to serve add the rasped cheese and some white pepper.
14. POTAGE "OXTAIL." |
Oxtail........1.
Vegetables....1 carrot, 1 onion.
Madeira.......1 glassful.
Corn starch...1 small tablespoonful.
Red pepper....A little.
Stock.........2 to 3 quarts.
PREPARATION.--1st. Take one oxtail, cut it in pieces one inch long let it boil in some water until tender. 2d. Let it drip, pare it to take off the grease and small bones. 3d. Put it in a sauce pan with 2 or 3 quarts of bouillon, 1/2 glass madeira, 1 onion and 1 carrot, some thyme and laurel. Let the whole cook for 3 hours. 4th. Pour the bouillon through a strainer in another sauce pan, take off the floating grease, add 1/2 of a glass of madeira, a little red pepper; allow to cook awhile and when ready to serve add, while stirring, 1 tablespoonful of corn starch mixed with 1 glass cold bouillon. 5th. Serve in a tureen in which you place the pieces of the tail.
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15. POTAGE TORTUE. |
PROPORTIONS.--For five persons:
Calf Head.......1/2.
Vegetables......2 onions, 3 carrots, some celery, thyme and laurel.
Mushrooms, truffles, cockscombs, "ad libitum."
Maderia.........1 glassful.
Vinegar.........1/2 glassful.
Flour...........2 tablespoonsful.
Starch..........1 tablespoonful.
Caramel.........}
Red pepper......}A little.
Whole pepper....}
Stock...........2 or 3 quarts.
PREPARATION.--Have the 1/2 of a calf's head, take the bone off, put the meat in a kettle with cold water; allow it to boil while skimming carefully for about ten minutes. 2d. Put the meat in cold water to cool it, let it drip. 3d. Put the meat in another kettle with two tablespoonsful of flour and add 1/2 gallon cold water, while stirring, and one-half (1/2) glass vinegar (this for the purpose of keeping the calf white), add 2 onions, 3 carrots, some thyme and laurel, some whole pepper, let boil one hour and skim. 4th. Allow the meat to drip, press the same between two loaded plates until cold. 5th. Cut the cold calf's head in dices, put them in a pan with mushrooms (also truffles, cockscombs), 1 glassful madeira, 2 quarts stock, let boil awhile and skim. 6th. When ready to serve add a little caramel* (to give color), a little cayenne pepper and a cup of bouillon in which you have mixed 1 tablespoonful of corn starch.
[Illustration: An illustration of a woman wearing an apron tasting steaming soup from a soup spoon.]
*We call burned sugar caramel.
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16. MULLAGATAWNEY. |
Fowl..........1 young chicken or the giblets of some.
Ham (lean)....4 ounces.
Butter........1 tablespoonful.
Vegetables....1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 celery.
Flour.........1 1/2 tablespoonful.
Red pepper....}A little.
Sugar.........}
Stock.........2 to 3 quarts.
Time.--1 hour.
PREPARATION.--1st. Chop your onion fine and let it cook in a sauce pan to a light brown, add then the chicken cut in pieces about 2 inches long, the ham, carrots and celery cut in dices. 2d. Allow the whole to cook a while, sift the flour in while stirring, add 2 to 3 quarts of stock. 3d. Let cook slowly for 1/2 hour longer if the chicken is not tender. 4th. Take the floating grease off, add a little bit of pepper and sugar and put in the tureen 1 1/2 tablespoonsful rice (cooked as indicated in 10).
17. TCHY A LA RUSSE. |
Beef breast........6 lbs.
Vegetables.........1/2 cabbage, 2 carrots, 2 onions.
Water..............2 to 3 quarts.
Flour..............2 tablespoonsful.
Sour cream.........1 glassful.
PREPARATION.--1st. Take 6 lbs. of beef breast, cut it into pieces about 1 inch long, place it in a kettle with two to three quarts cold water, let boil while skimming. 2d. When the bouillon begins to be clear, add 1/2 cabbage, 2 carrots, 2 onions, sliced quite fine, and let cook for about 3 hours. 3d. When quite ready to serve, mix in a bowl 2 tablespoonsful of flour with about 1 glass bouillon (not too warm), pour in the kettle while stirring, add 1 glass of sour cream and serve hot; the soup and meat being served together in the tureen.
NOTE.--In winter time the Russians replace the fresh cabbage with sour krout.
18. POTAGE SEMOULE LIEE. |
Semolia.................1/4 lb.
Cream...................1 glassful.
Yolks...................2.
Stock...................2 to 3 quarts.
Time.--3/4 hour.
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PREPARATION.--1st. Warm the stock in a sauce pan till it boils, then sift the semolia in and pour slowly with the left hand while stirring with the right one, so as to mix well. 2d. Allow to cook for 1/2 hour and when ready to serve, pour in the sauce pan (which has been set on a corner of the range) 1 glassful of cream mixed with the two yolks, stirring all the time.
19. POTAGE A L'ORGE. BARLEY SOUP. (Fat Soup--Half thick.) |
Barley.....3 tablespoonsful.
Yolk......1.
Cream......1 glassful.
Butter.....1 tablespoonful.
Stock......2 to 3 quarts.
Time.--2 3/4 hours.
PREPARATION.--1st. Wash your barley and let it stand for 1/2 hour in some cold water. 2d. Let it drip and let it cook till soft in some boiling water. 3d. Let it drip, cool with some cold water and let it drip again. 4th. Put your barley with your stock in a sauce pan and allow to cook for one hour. 5th. When ready to serve, beat in a bowl 1 yolk, 1 glassful cream, 1 tablespoonful butter; add little by little while stirring some of the soup, then, placing the sauce pan on a corner of the range, pour the mixture in while stirring, but do not let the soup boil again.
20. POTAGE ANDALOUX. |
Tomatoes........1/2 lb.
Vegetables......1 carrot, 1 onion, some thyme and laurel.
Rice............1 1/2 tablespoonful.
Corn starch.....1 teaspoonful.
Butter..........1 tablespoonful.
Stock or water..2 quarts.
Time.--1 1/2 hours.
PREPARATION.--1st. Put in a sauce pan 1/2 lb. can of tomatoes (or 1/2 lb. fresh tomatoes which you have scalded apart in some boiling water) with 1 carrot and 1 onion minced, some thyme and laurel, let cook 1 hour. 2d. Sift the whole through a strainer, add 2 quarts stock or water, salt, white pepper and cayenne pepper. 3d. Pour in 1 teaspoonful of corn starch mixed in a little cold water and one tablespoon of good butter. 4th. When ready to serve add 1 1/2 tablespoonsful of rice cooked apart. (No. 10.)
21. BORCH A LA POLONAISE. |
Red beets.......3
Vegetables......1 onion, 1/3 head cabbage.
Butter..........1 tablespoonful.
Stock or water..2 to 3 quarts.
Flour...........1/2 tablespoonful.
Milk............1 glassful.
Time.--1 1/4 hours.
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PREPARATION.--1st. Clean and mince 2 red beets, 1 onion, 1/8 of a cabbage, put the whole in a sauce pan with some butter, cook awhile, then add 1/2 tablespoonful of flour and 2 to 3 quarts of stock, cook 1 hour. 2d. Grate 1 red beet, press it through a napkin and when ready to serve pour the juice in the soup and add a glassful of milk.
22. POTAGE A LA REINE. |
Fowl........1 hen or chicken.
Vegetables..1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 stalk of celery.
Water.......2 to 3 quarts.
Time.--2 1/2 hours.
PREPARATION.--1st. Take one chicken and allow it to cook for 2 hours in 1/2 gallon of water with 1/2 veal or beef knuckle, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 sprig of celery. 2d. When the chicken is quite tendor let it drip and strain the stock through a napkin. 3d. Take the chicken off, put the fillets apart and pound the remainder of the flesh in a mortar. 4th. Add, little by little, while beating, the stock, and sift that paste through a sifter so as to obtain a pap. 5th. Let melt in a sauce pan 2 tablespoonsful of butter with 1 1/2 tablespoonsful of flour; pour the pap in, let it become hot, but don't allow it to boil. When ready to serve add the chicken fillets, cut into small dices.
23. CREME DE CELERI. |
Celery.....5 stalks.
Flour......3 tablespoonsful.
Butter.....3 tablespoonsful.
Yolks.....3.
Sugar......1/2 teaspoonful.
Cream......1 glassful.
Stock......2 to 3 quarts.
PREPARATION.--1st. Wash and clean the celery stalks, let them boil in water for 5 minutes, let them drip, cool them with cold water and let them drip again. 2d. Chop the celery stalks, put them in a sauce pan with 2 tablespoonsful butter and 3 tablespoonsful flour, allow the whole to cook awhile and add the stock. 3d. Let cook altogether for 1 hour, pass through a sifter, and put the pap in a sauce pan and heat it hot. 4th. When ready to serve make a "liaison" with 3 yolks, 1 glass cream, 2 tablespoonsful butter, and do as indicated above in No. 22 (See page 27, General Remarks.)
24. CREME D'ASPERGES. |
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25. CREME DE CHOUX FLEURS. |
26. PUREE CRECY. |
Carrot..........6.
Onion...........1.
Butter..........1 tablespoonful.
Flour...........1 tablespoonful.
Rice............1 1/2 tablespoonsful.
Stock or water..2 to 3 quarts.
PREPARATION.--1st. Cut your carrots in small dices, and let them cook in a sauce pan with some butter and a chopped onion. 2d. Add while stirring, 1 tablespoonful of flour and 2 to 3 quarts stock or water and let cook slowly for 1 hour. 3d. Pass through a sifter or strainer, and when ready to serve add 1 tablespoonful good butter and 1 1/2 tablespoonsful rice cooked separately. (No. 10.)
27. POTAGE ST. GERMAIN. |
28. POTAGE CONDE. |
White kidney beans.....1 pint.
Onions.................2.
Butter.................2 tablespoonsful.
Stock or water.........2 to 3 quarts.
PREPARATION.--Take 1 pint white kidney beans, let them cook in some salted water with one sliced onion. 2d. When well cooked sift through a strainer or a sifter, put this pap in a sauce pan with 2 to 3 quarts stock or water, and when ready to serve add 2 tablespoonsful of butter. Serve hot with small toasts apart.
29. POTAGE MUSARD. |
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30. CREME DE LENTILLES. |
31. POTAGE PAYSANNE. |
Vegetables.......Cabbage 1/3, carrot 1, potato 1, turnip 1/2, onion 1/2, some celery.
Water............2 to 3 quarts.
Milk.............1 glassful.
Butter...........1 tablespoonful.
Time.--1 1/2 hours.
PREPARATION.--1st. Take 1/3 cabbage, 1 carrot, 1 potato, 1/2 turnip, 1/2 onion, some celery, mince them all, then wash and let drip. 2d. Put those minced vegetables in a sauce pan with 2 to 3 quarts of water and a little salt, allow them to boil for 1 1/2 hours. When ready to serve add 1 glass milk, 1 tablespoonful butter and some pieces of toast.
32. SOUPE A L'ONION. |
Onions...........12 (somewhat according to the size).
Butter...........2 tablespoonsful.
Flour............1 tablespoonful.
Bread............1/2 lb.
Rasped cheese....1/2 lb.
Water............2 to 3 quarts.
Time.--1 hour.
PREPARATION.--1st. Have about 12 fine slices of bread and 1/2 lb. of rasped cheese, Parmesan preferred, place some slices on the bottom of a dish that can be put in an oven, pour over a bed of cheese, then a bed of bread, etc., finishing by a bed of bread but preserving enough cheese for a last bed. 2d. Chop about 12 onions, let them cook slowly in a sauce pan with about 2 tablespoonsful of butter until a light brown, add while stirring 1 tablespoonful of flour, stir the whole for a while, then add 2 quarts of water. 3d. Allow to cook for 5 minutes. 4th. Pour this soup through a strainer on the bed prepared as above. 5th. Pour over the dish a last bed of cheese, and let it bake until a light brown.
CAUTION.--In serving this soup take care to give each guest some of the crust, dry and palatable.
NOTE.--You may have a good family soup by doing only as indicated in the 2d. and 3d. and serving it with some toast and rasped cheese.
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33. SOUPE A L'OSEILLE. |
Sorrel............1 lb.
Butter............3 tablespoonsful.
Flour.............1 tablespoonful.
Eggs.............2.
Cream.............1 glassful.
Water.............2 or 3 quarts.
Bread for toast...Ad libitum.
Time.--1/2 hour.
PREPARATION.--1st. Clean, wash and let drip 1 lb. sorrel. 2d. Chop it fine and let it cook slowly for 5 minutes in a sauce pan with two tablespoonsful of butter. 3d. Add while stirring 1 tablespoonful of flour and 2 or 3 quarts water. Let boil awhile. 4th. Beat in a bowl 1 glassful of cream, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful butter; take the saucepan on a corner of the range and pour the contents of the bowl in while stirring. Don't allow to boil again and serve with some slices of bread or toast.
34. OUKA DE PERCHES A LA MOSCOVITE. |
Fresh perch........4 lbs.
Vegetables.........2 onions, 4 carrots, 4 stalks of celery, some parsley, thyme and laurel.
Time.--1 hour.
PREPARATION.--1st. Clean and wash carefully about 4 lbs. very fresh perch. Take the fillets off and put them apart. 2d. Put the heads and the back bones in a kettle with two onions, 2 carrots, 2 celery stalks, some parsley, thyme and laurel, 2 quarts of water, a little salt, let boil for 1 hour. 3d. Slice in "julienne" (See No. 8), 2 celery stalks and 2 carrots, let them cook in some water until quite tender, then let them drip. 4th. Put the dripped vegetables in a sauce pan with the fillets, pour over the fish "stock" and let cook again for 1/4 hour.
This soup, which may be made with quite every kind of fish, provided it is very fresh, can be served advantageously with lean dinners and is matchless for camping parties.
35. BOUILLABAISSE. |
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the late Emperor of Russia, who was very fond of fish soup, but did not like to find "fish bones" in his plate.
PROPORTIONS.--For five persons:
Redsnapper........1.
Dorade or pike....1.
Perch.............2.
Lobster (alive)...1.
Vegetables........1 onion, 6 tomatoes, 2 cloves of garlic.
Thyme and laurel..Some.
Soffran...........A little.
Butter............1 tablespoonful.
Bread.............1/2 lb.
White wine........1 pint.
Water.............2 to 3 quarts.
PREPARATION.--1st. Clean and wash your fishes, take the fillets off and put them aside on a dish; cut off the small paws and the extremity of the lobster's tail, put them apart in a mortar to be broken fine, cut the claws in two, then turn the lobster (placing its back on the table) and cut the tail in slices 1/2 inch thick and the body in 4 parts, lengthwise and then across. (Always turn a lobster when you wish to divide it.) Place these pieces of lobster apart with your fillets. 2d. Put two chopped onions in a sauce pan with some butter, or olive oil, let cook until a light brown, add the heads and the bones of the fishes, the paws of the lobster broken fine, 1 pint white wine, 2 quarts water, 6 sliced tomatoes, 2 crushed cloves of garlic, some thyme and laurel, some soffran (Spanish soffran); let cook from 1/2 to 3/4 hour. 3d. 20 minutes before serving dispose your fillets and pieces of lobster in a hollow dish, pour the fish "stock" over through a fine strainer, let boil while scumming for about 10 minutes and serve with some toasts apart.
36. SOUPE AUX HUITRES. |
Oysters.........5 dozen.
White wine......1 glassful.
Yolks..........3.
Cream...........1/2 glassful.
Butter..........2 tablespoonsful.
Water or stock..1 quart.
Time.--1/2 hour.
PREPARATION.--1st. Take your oysters from the shell, put them with their juice and 1 glassful white wine in a sauce pan, let cook awhile until firm. 2d. Let the oysters drip, pour the juice in a sauce pan through a strainer, and place the oysters on a folded napkin to dry them well. 3d. Add in the sauce pan 1 quart of water or stock, let boil awhile and scum. 4th. When ready to serve beat in a bowl 3 yolks, 1/2 glassful of cream, 3 tablespoonsful of butter, add in the sauce pan while stirring (as indicated page 27, General Remarks) and pour in a tureen where you have placed the oysters in advance.
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37. SOUPE AUX CLAMS. |
Clams..........2 dozen.
Vegetables.....1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 parsley root.
Butter.........2 tablespoonsful.
Lemon..........1.
Time.--1 hour.
PREPARATION.--1st. Cut in dices 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 parsley root, let cook the whole for five minutes in some butter; add then water and allow to cook again slowly for 3/4 hour. 2d. Take 2 dozen clams off their shells, put them with their juice in a bowl, and when ready to serve pour the whole in a sauce pan, allow to boil for 5 minutes, add 1 tablespoonful of good butter mixed with some hashed parsley. Serve with sliced lemons.