Epicurean
BY
CHARLES RANHOFER
DELMONICO'S
ILLUSTRATED WITH 800 PLATES.
Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1893,
BY CHARLES RANHOFER.
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D.C.
Charles D. Sibley, Printer, 10-12 Vandewater Street.
IN PUBLISHING this work I have endeavored to fill a much needed want, viz: -the best and most effectual manner of preparing healthy and nutritious food.
This edition contains innumerable recipes which I have simplified and explained in a comprehensive manner so as to meet the wants of all. It suggests, also, many useful and important hints to those about entering the profession.
The book is illustrated and contains instructions how to prepare, garnish and serve according to the traditional rules of our most able predecessors, and now followed by the principal chefs of France and the United States.
In some instances, where it was deemed necessary to differ from the standard rules and methods in order to cater to the various tastes, changes have been made.
The book is divided into twenty-four chapters: Table Service, Bills of Fare, Supplies, Elementary Methods, Soups, Stocks, Hot and Cold Sauces, Garnishings, Hot and Cold Side Dishes, Shell Fish, Crustaceans, Fish, Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, Pork, Poultry, Game, Miscellaneous Entrées, Cold Dishes, Vegetables, Cereals, Hot and Cold Desserts, Pastry, Bakery, Confectionery, Ices, Fruit, Wines and Preserves.
Not relying solely on my experience and knowledge, I have quoted from the most illustrious modern author, my much beloved friend and colleague, Urbain Dubois, ex-chef at the Court of Germany, and it gives me sincere pleasure to thank him for his generous assistance.
The profession will acknowledge its indebtedness to the Messrs. Delmonico for the interest shown by them in developing the gastronomic art in this country.
Many will recall the business receptions given to distinguished guests under the supervision and direction of Delmonico.
Mention may be made of the following dinners: to President U. S. Grant, to President A. Johnson, to the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia, to Gen. Prim, to Charles Dickens, to Sir Morton Peto, to Aug. Belmont, to Giraud Foster, to Gen. Cutting, to Luckmeyer, the so-called "Black Swan Dinner," to Admiral Renaud, to Prof. Morse, to Bartholdi, to De Lesseps, to the Comte de Paris, also the ball given to the Russian Admiral and Fleet, and the Greek dinner.
I have entitled this work THE EPICUREAN, and have justly dedicated it to the memory of Messrs. Delmonico, as a token of my gratitude and sincere esteem.
Their world-wide reputation continues to be maintained by Mr. C. C. Delmonico.
In conclusion I feel that my experience will be useful to those seeking information in the gastronomic art.
Hoping the public will appreciate my efforts,
I remain respectfully,
CHARLES RANHOFER.
BEAVER & SOUTH WM STS
22 BROAD STREET
MADISON SQUARE.
ESTABLISHED 1827.
Office Beaver & South Wm Sts
Chef
Charles Ranhofer Esq.
Dear Sir:
In my opinion after looking over your mms{unclear} it is{unclear} very worthy of the reputation you have in my estimation for editing a work of this character, and it is with much pleasure I recommend it to the attention of those to whom it is most directly addressed,
A perusal will I think give one an appetite -
Yours truly
The success of a dinner depends upon good cooking, the manner in which it is served, and especially on entertaining congenial guests. The American service is copied more or less from the French and Russian, and remodeled to the tastes and customs of this country; as it varies somewhat from all others, a few instructions may be found useful to those desirous of learning the difference existing between them.
Menus are made for breakfasts, luncheons and suppers, but the most important one is for the dinner; these menus are generally composed a few days in advance to enable the necessary provisions to be purchased, so that on the day of the dinner, there has been ample time to prepare everything necessary, consequently much confusion is avoided and the work better done.
In carrying out the order the menu should be strictly followed, in fact, it must be an obligatory rule to do so.
Making out the bill of fare is the duty of the head cook, who composes and writes them according to the latitude he enjoys and the resources he has at hand.
Should the menu be intended for a dinner including ladies, it must be composed of light, fancy dishes with a pretty dessert; if, on the contrary, it is intended for gentlemen alone, then it must be shorter and more substantial. If the dinner be given in honor of any distinguished foreign guest, then a place must be allowed on the menu to include a dish or several dishes of his own nationality; avoid repeating the same names in the same menu. Let the gravies be of different colors, one following the other.
Also vary the color of the meats as far as possible, from one course to the other. Offer on the menus all foods in their respective seasons, and let the early products be of the finest quality (consult a general market list to find the seasonable produce), and only use preserved articles when no others can be obtained.
If the menus are hand written they must be very legible.
Menus are indispensable for service à l'Américaine; there should be one for each guest, for as
Menus must be both simple and elegant, and of a size to allow them to be easily placed in the pocket without folding, as it is the general desire to keep the bill of fare of a dinner at which one has assisted.
A few important observations necessary to bills of fare and their classification are here given:
Oysters appear on the menu the same as in the Russian service on French bills of fare they do not mention them. Suppress oysters in every month not containing the letter R, such as: May, June, July and August, and serve Little Neck clams instead.
Soups are served after the oysters. One clear and one thick soup should be selected but if only one is needed, give the preference to the clear soup.
Hot hors-d'œuvre are, generally, timbales, croustades, cromesquis, palmettes, mousselines, bouchées, cannelons, cassolettes, rissoles, etc. With the same course serve cold side dishes, such as olives, radishes, canapés, caviare, pickled tunny, anchovies, etc.
In the French service, the fish and the solid joints come under the head of relevés or removes. In the American and English service, first comes the fish, then the removes.
If the fish be boiled or braized, add potatoes to the menu; if broiled or sautéd, some cucumber salad; and, if fried, serve plain or with a light sauce.
The relevés or solid joints are composed of saddles, either of veal, mutton, lamb, venison and antelope, or else beef tenderloins or middle short loins. Turkey, goose, capon, pullets, ducks, etc., may be served, accompanied by one or two vegetables.
Place on the bill of fare first the heaviest entrée, and conclude with the lightest; they must be previously cut up so as to avoid carving. No fish figures in the American service as an entrée, but terrapin or crabs may be allowed; also lobsters, shrimps, frogs, croquettes, etc.
Each entrée should be accompanied by a vegetable, served separately, except when it is one of those described above, such as terrapin, etc.
A punch or sherbet is always served after the entrées and before the roast; do not make an extra heading on the menu for these, only placing them on a line by themselves, for instance: Roman punch or American sherbet.
Roasts are served after the sherbet; a game roast is usually preferred, but poultry, either truffled or not, may be substituted: such as turkey, capon, pullet, duck, guinea-fowl, squabs, etc.; also roasted butcher's meat; but game is usually considered to be more choice.
Cold dishes come after the roast, and before the hot dessert; they are served with green salads; terrines of foies-gras and boned turkey are also served as a second roast. (In the French service these cold dishes are classified as the last entrée.)
These appear after the roast; they are composed of puddings, crusts, fried creams, fritters, pancakes, borders, omelets, and soufflées, and form a separate course by themselves.
The cold sweet entremets come after the hot and are composed of jellies, bavarois, creams, blanc-manges, macédoines, charlottes and large cakes, and form another course.
After the cold entremets come the dessert, composed of cheese, fresh fruits, preserved fruits, cakes, jams, dried fruits, candied fruits, bonbons, mottoes, papillotes, victorias, pyramids, frozen puddings, plombières, ices, ice cream and small fancy cakes, then the coffee and cordials.
The steward must inform and specify to the butler the wine to be served at each separate course. However, important the dinner may be, still decanters of ordinary red and white wine must be placed on the table. The selection of the finer wines is the host's duty, he making his choice when ordering the bill of fare.
The steward's duty is to see that the wines are served at a proper temperature.
All white wines must be served cold.
Sherry and Xeres cool.
Bordeaux between 52 and 60 degrees, Fahrenheit, according to its growth.
Burgundy between 42 and 45 degrees.
Champagnes, cold or iced, or in sherbets.
Dessert wines cool.
For choosing wines consult the table on wines of Delmonico's cellar. (No. 3709.)
Iced Punches and Sherbets, Rum, Madeira.
American service, like the Russian, must be served quickly and hot. As easily understood by the following card, a dinner of ten minute intervals can be served with fourteen courses in two hours and twenty minutes and if at eight minute intervals, in one hour and fifty-two minutes, the same as an eight course dinner of ten minute intervals will take one hour and twenty minutes, so at eight minute intervals it will take one hour and four minutes.
An oblong shaped table is preferable for a large dinner party, the feet being less incommodious; it must at least be six or seven feet wide and twenty-two feet long, with rounded ends. This shaped table is most generally used, although some prefer round, or horse-shoe ones, or an oblong with square ends, and many other fanciful shapes, depending entirely on the size of the room and the taste of the host.
Tables can be lengthened according to the number of seats desired; the space allowed for each guest is, for a square, table with square ends, two feet apart between each plate; when the ends are curved, the space for the corners must be twenty-two inches apart, and if entirely round, twenty inches.
Cover a table twenty-two by seven with a felt cover made for the purpose, then over this lay a tablecloth twenty-four feet long and eight or nine feet wide, being careful that it is exceedingly white and smooth, having no creases whatever.
Fold a well starched, large napkin, pinch it triangularly, and place it in the center of the table; have twenty-four smaller napkins also well starched, folded and pinched, and place these at the edge of the table and on each one set a plate with another napkin on top, folded either shaped as a boat, a tulip, or any other pretty design, or else the napkin may be simply folded square.
The bread is placed either under the folds or in the center of the napkin, according to the manner in which it is displayed, or on a small plate to the left of the cover. Another way is to place the bread in front of the napkin.
On the left of each plate, lay a table fork and also a fish fork.
On the right set a table knife, a silver fish knife, a soup spoon, also a small fork for oysters or Little Neck
In front, but slightly toward the right of each plate, set a small individual salt-cellar. The double silver pepper castors containing black and red pepper are distributed two on each side, and two at each end of the table, with eight single ones between the double ones.
Glasses are placed in a semi-circle either in front of the plate or else on the right; arrange these according to the courses to be served. First, water glass; second, white wine; third, sherry; fourth, Rhine wine; fifth, champagne; and sixth, Bordeaux.
Before serving the entrées remove the white wine, Sherry and Rhine wine glasses and replace them by fine Bordeaux and Burgundy glasses. Glasses intended for dessert wines and liquors, are only put on the table with the dessert.
In the center of the table have a large piece of silverware decorated with plants, ferns and natural flowers, or else a high vase or simply a basket of flowers. These baskets or other decorations may be filled with one, or several kinds of variegated flowers, mingling red and white, scarlet and lilac, or Parma violets, or tulips and orchids, these produce a brilliant effect. (The entire house, staircases, halls, etc., may also be decorated with plants, palms, lemon and orange trees, or rubber plants. Mantels and mirrors to be also wreathed with flowers, or else scattered about in clusters, and have hanging baskets tastefully arranged in prominent corners, so as to add to the general beautiful effect.)
On each side of the center piece and on the center line have two prettily arranged baskets containing seasonable or hot-house fruits; on each side of these, set an ornamental piece, either made of nougat, gum-paste or sugar candy, or should these high pieces not be desirable, others may be substituted either of bronze, or else stands covered with flowers, etc.
On each end of these pieces set either candelabras or lamps, and beyond these high stands of graduated tiers filled with bonbons, cornucopias, Victorias, bonbon boxes, etc., all of them forming the center line of the table. Around this line, and at about twenty to twenty-four inches from the edge, draw a line the same shape as the table, and on this place decanter stands for decantered wine; two for sherry, four for white wine, and four for red Bordeaux, making ten in all, and the same quantity of decanter stands for decanters containing water, or instead of ten, twenty-four smaller ones may be substituted, one for each person.
Place at intervening spaces, two compote dishes with stewed fruits, four stands for small fancy cakes, two compote dishes for candied or dried fruits, nuts, etc., or else fresh strawberries, raspberries or mulberries, if in season, a saucerful for each person, and finish by interlacing through these dishes as well as the decanters, strings of smilax or any other pretty creeping vine,
The diagram of the table should be obtained, and have the names of each guest tastefully written on fancy cards; lay one of these on the right hand glass of each person, in a prominent manner so that it can be read from a distance which will greatly facilitate the seating of the guests. Procure bouquets of flowers for the ladies, set in fancy vases, tying them with ribbons, and having a pin attached to enable them to fasten them on to their dresses; gentlemen's button-hole bouquets should also be placed in vases. All these flowers must be in front, but slightly toward the left of each person.
The bills of fare or menus should be placed on the left side, either in silver stands (Fig. 197), or set beside the plate.
The host should always be seated so as to face the door leading into the dining-room. The hostess on the other end of the table directly opposite, their respective seats being at the top and bottom of the table. The seat of honor for a lady is on the right hand of the host, and naturally on the right hand of the hostess for a gentleman. The left hand may also be utilized as seats of honor but of minor importance. A dining room should be kept at a comfortable temperature. The sideboard should be placed at one side of the table, and on this or in the drawers and compartments everything must be arranged in thorough order so as to have them handy, thus avoiding all confusion during dinner.
The entire dessert service including wines to be arranged tastefully on the sideboard, giving a very pretty effect to the room. A service table must either be in the dining-room behind a screen or in a pantry close by; it must contain one or several carving boards, sundry knives and forks, ladles, chafing dishes, etc. The service must be rapid and the dishes served hot; avoid having anything cooked in advance except the large pieces. Entrées and all smaller dishes should be prepared according to their successive order, as the dinner progresses, at an interval of two or three courses, which means about ten or twenty minutes apart. A good steward can always manage to protract the dinner in case the cook is behind time, but it is his duty to inform those in the kitchen at least ten minutes beforehand so as to prevent any possible delay; he must also have a duplicate bill of fare from the kitchen identical with the one on the table, and classified according to the service, so as to be able to consult it in order to know exactly which dish follows the other.
When the dinner is ready, the steward must place his help in their respective positions, and give them final instructions regarding their duties; they should be attired in dress suits, white ties and gloves, and wear no jewelry whatever. In order to serve a ceremonial dinner for twenty-four persons, it will require: a steward, a butler, a carver and six waiters; carefully intrusting the care of the wines to the most intelligent, and the carving to the most expert; the remaining six being for the special table service, they must remain in their respective places to be at the call of the guests should their services be required.
The gentlemen are to be received by a waiter, who before introducing them into the reception room, takes their overcoats, canes, hats, umbrellas, etc., leaving these articles in a place set aside for this purpose, near the reception room, then hands each gentleman an envelope addressed to himself in which there will be found a card bearing the name of the lady he is to escort to the dining-room, and who is to be seated on his right hand during dinner.
Two other waiters attired in full dress, introduce the gentlemen into the reception room adjoining the dining-room, the doors to the latter being closed; in the reception room there should be a small Russian buffet, or simply serve some sherry, Xeres, bitters, vermuth and absinthe, to be handed round on trays to each guest as he arrives.
It is absolutely necessary to have a lady's maid to receive the ladies, lay aside their outer garments, or any article they may desire to confide to her care; these must be arranged in such a manner as to be easily returned to their respective owners.
The maid must remain and wait, in order to be continually at the disposal of the lady guests.
When all the invited guests have arrived and been duly introduced, the dinner hour having struck, the steward opens the dining-room doors, bows to the host, this being the signal to announce that dinner is served.
The hostess enters the dining-room first, on the arm of the gentleman in whose honor the dinner is given, followed by the other guests, the host being last. Each one sits down at the seats indicated on the cards, and when all are comfortably seated the dinner begins.
The service must be performed silently, a look alone from the steward sufficing for each man to do his duty. Every article handed round must be on a silver salver.
The butler will pour out the Chablis, stating the name of each wine he serves.
Sherry should be served with this course.
Sherry or Xeres should accompany this course.
Serve Rhine wine or white Bordeaux.
Serve champagne.
Serve the Burgundy from bottles laid flat in baskets (Fig. 774.) holding the basket in the right hand and a white napkin in the left.
Serve Johannisberg or Vin de Paille.
Now remove everything from the table with the exception of the dessert, and to avoid using a brush lift up the extra napkins in front of each person, folding them in two so that the table is neat and clean without being obliged to use a brush or scraper. Lay the dessert plates on the table, and continue the service for the hot dessert.
Serve a fine Laffitte Bordeaux.
Serve Madeira wine, Muscatel and Frontignan, also plates of salted almonds.
It is now time for the hostess to bow, push back her chair and prepare to rise, this being a signal for the ladies to retire; after they have returned to the drawing-room, coffee is passed round on a salver containing spoons, hot water, sugar and cream. A few moments later another waiter comes forward with an empty tray to remove the cups the ladies hand him.
The gentlemen partake of their coffee in the dining-room; at the same time serve them Kirsch, brandy, chartreuse, cigars and cigarettes. The doors are closed and the ladies and waiters have retired so as to allow the gentlemen more freedom to talk among themselves, still it will be necessary to enter the drawing room and dining-room occasionally in order to see whether anything be needed so as to avoid being called as much as possible.
After half an hour or so, the gentlemen will rejoin the ladies in the drawing-room and then tea is served. The tea service is accomplished by passing around on trays, tea, sugar, hot water, cream, cups, spoons and slices of lemon. A few moments later another waiter removes the empty cups on a tray.
After the tea the service is considered to be ended.
There are two different services in use: The French and the Russian.
Although recognizing the priority of both of these services, it will be well to mention the difference existing between them and the English and the American service; first, they differ in the classification of the bills of fare and certain changes in the table service, these alone are sufficient to be interesting.
The old style of French service threatens to disappear entirely and is rarely used, except on very rare occasions.
The three services placed on the table, one after the other, had certainly the advantage of displaying the culinary labor as well as the most variegated and rare products by exhibiting them in all their profuseness. But the great inconvenience is the preparation of dishes beforehand in the kitchen in order to have each service ready at once and to keep them hot in heaters before beginning to serve the dinner.
The dishes for the first course are placed on the table in chafing dishes provided with covers, to be lifted off when the guests are seated, and left on the table till ready to be carved.
Of course this inconvenience is somewhat remedied by keeping the heaters and chafing dishes at a given heat, and there must be placed near the table, either behind a screen in the dining-room or else in an adjoining pantry, a bain-marie with all the necessary sauces required for the
But notwithstanding all possible care and attention the entrées are apt to lose much of their finer qualities by the very act of being cooked and dressed beforehand, then kept hot in these heaters or chafing dishes.
Still this could scarcely have been the sole cause for abandoning the old system, for it continued in usage for several centuries. We are, however, obliged to recognize that first-class families have ceased to make a display of the great luxuriousness indulged in, in the past; to-day they are more restrained, the help less numerous and the chief cook frequently alone with one kitchen assistant, having no longer an extra man for pastry, confectionery and ices. The chef himself must see to the preparation of the pastry, ices and desserts. There are now scarcely to be found any house where for twelve persons they employ a chef, an assistant and a pastry cook and the remainder of the help corresponding to this great amount of luxury.
The bills of fare are simpler; instead of dressing and arranging the service on the table itself, many houses have a mixed service; this is made by presenting the dishes on the table, then removing them to be carved.
The general desire of the day is to dine quicker; taste changes with the fashion. The old French service is fast disappearing, and as it becomes more simple it gradually evolves into a mixed Russian and French service.
The first service is composed of hors-d'œuve (side dishes), two soups, two removes, four hot entrées, or two cold and two hot entrées.
Remove the cold hors-d'œuvre; serve the punch or sherbet.
The second service is composed of two roasts to take the place of the removes; four entremets, two being of vegetables, one hot sweet entremets and one cold; these to replace the entrées; two entremets cakes to take the place of the cold entrées.
Prepare the table for the dessert.
The third service, or dessert, is composed of two shelved stands filled with bonbons, victorias, bonbon boxes, cossacks, two low stands or drums containing small fancy cakes, two basketfuls of fresh fruits, two assorted compotes, one orange jelly, one bar-le-due jelly and two cheeses; two fancy pieces of nougat or candied sugar to replace the entremets cakes.
The wines should be selected and served as indicated in another chapter, according to the taste and desire of the host.
The table must be sixteen to eighteen feet long and six to seven feet wide, with rounded corners, covered with a table-cloth and having exactly in the center a high stand or epergne, or piece of silverware or bronze, filled with flowers. Continue the middle line with candelabras or lamps; leave a place for the chafing dishes and between these arrange the cold hors-d'œuvre. Set the plates, the glasses to form a semicircle in front; the spoons and knives on the right and the forks on the left.
Commence serving the most honored guest on each right side, and begin each separate service at the person served the last.
All the dishes intended for the table should be dressed tastefully and the edges decorated with open-worked noodle borders; the meats laid symmetrically, the borders to be neither too high nor too much spread so that the dish covers can fit on easily; light bread borders can also be used.
Decorate the meats with trimmed hatelets just before placing them on the table.
Let the china, glassware, silver, cutlery and linen be as much alike as possible, have the glasses all plain or cut of the same pattern and shape; the china either all white, colored or gilt; the linen plain or damasked with large or small designs.
The plates must be changed at each service as well as the knives and forks, they must be
Small salt cellars and pepper casters, one for each person.
Fine baccarat glass is the handsomest; keep in reserve glasses of all kinds in case of an accident.
The oil and vinegar caster, as well as the mustard pot, are to be passed around according to necessity.
The habit we have of eating everything very hot and very fast comes to us from the "Russian service;" it differs from the French service in the very fact that nothing hot appears on the table, everything is cut up as needed, either in the kitchen or pantry. The carving should be performed
For the solid joints, removes or roasts, they can be served precisely the same, or else laid on very hot plates and handed directly to each guest. There must be a sufficiency of every kind of entrée to serve for every person present. Should there be several and a variety of roasts and only one service required, then carve a third part of each one, or more of one than the other if certain dishes seem to be preferred. If there be several removes the same course can be pursued. As soon as one course is being passed around, the following one should be brought from the kitchen so that the dinner can be served uninterruptedly and eaten while hot and palatable.
The cold meat pieces may be dressed and arranged on the table the same as the candelabras, silverware, bronze vases and flower baskets, all of these to be in the center line of the table, leaving eighteen inches of space uncovered between the end of the line and the edge of the table; between this center line and the edge draw a round or oval or any other desirable shape at eighteen inches above the edge. If there be two cold meat pieces lay them on the sides of the table and in the center of the line, and if four, then two at the sides and two at the ends in the center, if eight then have four at the corners between the sides and ends on the eighteen-inch line above the edge; finish to decorate this line with cold sweet dishes, baskets of fresh fruits, shelved stands filled with bonbons, cossacks, Victorias, drums containing small fancy cakes, compoted dried fruits, etc., all these ornaments give the table a charming effect and should be arranged before the guests enter the dining-room.
The straight line alone and the cold meat pieces can be also arranged, finishing at eighteen inches from the edge with garlands of leaves and flowers instead of the dessert, and when ready to serve the cold pieces, take them off and replace them by the taller desserts, shelved stands and drums, ranging the others here and there, half on either side of the table between the middle line and the flowers.
Hot sweet entremets are always served as extras or "flying dishes," after the vegetables.
The service is far less sumptuous and elegant than the French one, yet it pleases many and is very fashionable at the present time. The remainder of the service is exactly like the French.
The old-fashioned bills of fare for the Russian service were classed differently to those of to-day; further on they will be found in great variety, appertaining to different epochs and a selection can be made of those most suitable; the service remains invariably the same, the only change being in the bill of fare.
It is the custom in Russia to serve the iced punches or sherbets after the fish, but it is certainly preferable to wait until the entrées are removed.
"To sleep easily one must sup lightly."
Supper buffets are dressed on tables twelve to twenty feet long by four to five feet wide; larger or smaller according to the number of guests and the richness of the bill of fare. Be careful that every article on the table shows to the best advantage, arranging each dish in a tasteful manner, yet observing certain indispensable rules so to facilitate the service that the buffet can be replenished and the dishes removed without the slightest confusion. The warm dishes should be served continuously without any delay and only a few at the time. Place a large piece of silverware in the center of the table to contain fruits, following the middle line on the length, then two large baskets of flowers and two pieces either of nougat or sugar, both ornamented with candied fruits, then two large cold-meat pieces and two stands filled with bonbon boxes, mottoes, victorias and bonbons, afterward two candelabras, and two entremets cakes to finish. In the front place a decorated salmon, behind on the other side of the center line stand the tenderloin of beef, and on each side of the fish and tenderloin, two medium-sized meat pieces, then the drums or high stands filled with small cakes. After this the small cold entrées, such as sandwiches and small rolls filled with rillettes; at each end of the table arrange the chicken and lobster salads. On one end of the table have plenty of material handy (according to the importance of the bill of fare), for hot service; have plates, soup tureens and chafing-dishes; behind, near the tenderloin of beef, put the ices, jellies and charlottes.
These suppers are usually served after the first part of the dancing order is finished between
First part. -The soup is either consommé in cups, or barley cream, or rice and almond milk. These must be perfectly clear in order to serve them in cups the same as the consommé.
Oysters prepared in different styles: Fricasseed, Hollandaise, Béchamel, poulette, Viennese, crawfish sauce, etc.; oysters fried or stuffed, small bouchées filled with salpicon, chicken or game croquettes, sweetbreads, lobster, etc., Timbales and mousselines; terrapin, Maryland or Newburg for white, Baltimore and Maryland Club for brown; red-head ducks and canvas-back, also quails and squabs and sometimes deviled crabs, stuffed lobsters, scallops à la Brestoise or frog croquettes.
Second part. -Decorate the table with hors-d'œuvre composed of radishes, olives, celery, anchovy toasts etc.
Large pieces such as a richly decorated salmon, a tenderloin of beef garnished with vegetables, boned turkey and capon, ham stuffed with pistachio nuts and truffles, a suckling pig, a boar's head, large dishes of turkey and capon, truffled or otherwise. Volières of peacock, young swans, pheasants and guinea fowls ornamented with their natural feathers, large terrines of Strasburg foies-gras, woodcock, snipe, reedbirds, quails, leverets, veal kernels and game "pains," en damier; bastions of roast game on croûtons and garnished with fresh water-cress, pyramids of lobsters and crawfish and truffles.
There are a great variety of elegant entrées, and among others the following ones may be selected:
Aspics of all kinds, red beef tongue, foies-gras, fillets of chickens, oysters, etc.; white and brown chaufroids of partridge and chicken, also ravigote ducks, galantines of chicken, cream of pigeons, squabs and quails covered with chaufroid and decorated with black truffles and very green pistachio nuts; smoked and unsmoked tongue well glazed and dressed pyramid form; lamb chops au vert pré, ballotines of quails and squabs, ducklings pear shaped and thrushes à la Périgord; terrines of Nérac and ducks' livers à la Toulouse and young rabbit à la mode de Rouen; pains of chicken or game. Entrées of larks and reedbirds, chicken mayonnaise; lobster, shrimp, crab and salmon salads, also salad à la Russe, and at equal distances have plates of small breads garnished with rillettes and fine sandwiches.
Select from all this gastronomical wealth those dishes liable to satisfy the appetite and at the same time make a beautiful display on the table.
Third part. -Intersperse among the cold dishes, liquor and fruit jellies, bavarois, "pains" of rice puddings, blanc-manges and charlotte russes, assorted creams and crowns, waffles filled with whipped cream, macédoines, assorted large dessert cakes, and timbales of waffles, brisselets and wheelbarrows of small méringues with flowers or fruits, horn of plenty and Sultan vases, cherry baskets, high mounted pieces of gum paste, royal icing, nougat, sugar candy, marchpane and almond paste. Fancy variegated ices, such as virgin cream and biscuit glacés, tutti-frutti, Montelimar, Neapolitan, harlequin, bombs and delicious creams with nuts; parfait with coffee and burnt almond cream, chestnut mousse and soufflés sabayon; sponge and plombière with fruits, Nesselrode puddings and fiori di latte; pineapple water ices and Favart soufflés; fresh, seasonable and hot-house fruits; compotes of fruits, small fancy cakes, Genoese cakes and others iced; bonbons, Victorias, cornucopias, Cossacks, mottoes and bonbon boxes.
This third part of the menu is certainly the prettiest and most coquettish, and with these luxuries ends the selection of dishes from which an elegant table may be set.
A meal usually offered cold without any soup, and set on a table where removes are served at the same time, also entrées, side dishes and sweet desserts, and in which the service is blended into one, for no dishes are to be removed. Certain breakfast, hunting luncheons, and suppers served in the midst of a ball, are also all called ambigu.
Lunch is a small repast indulged in between breakfast and dinner. This meal is called lunch in English, in French goûter or taste, because it is less heavy than the others, and, as generally very little is eaten, it is only tasted. In France this old custom only exists in country towns where breakfast is very matinal; the English and Americans also lunch, for they breakfast early and only dine toward six or seven o'clock, therefore lunch is an indispensable meal with them. Larger and more ceremonious luncheons are frequently served; these are called "dinner luncheons," and many bills of fare for their preparation will be found later on. For family luncheons there are generally served cold meats, light entrées, sandwiches, pastries, ices, preserves, etc.,
Although set with more simplicity than the dinner table, nothing elegant must be lacking; in the center of the table place a flower decoration, either a double cornicopia, or a boat, or two dossers set back to back, or a vase, or a temple, etc., according to the reason the lunch was offered to the guests. On each side place a piece made of nougat, one of spun sugar, and at each end a high stand on tiers filled with bonbons, Victorias, mottoes, etc.
At eighteen or twenty-four inches from the edge, according to the width of the table, draw a line the same shape as the table and lay on this decanters of white and sherry wines, also water decanters, one for every two persons; two fruit dishes, four containing small fancy cakes, and two of dried fruits. Set semicircular around each plate as many glasses as there are wines; on the right hand lay a card bearing the name of the guest, and on the left a dress or buttonhole bouquet and the menu standing against the flower vase. Decorate the sideboard with the dessert service; carve the meats near the dining-room, and see that everything is served very hot. Let the wines be of a proper temperature, and specify each one while serving it; as soon as everything is in complete order, open the doors and bow, which means that the lunch is ready, and the guests may assemble in the dining-room to take their places at the seats designated on their cards. The service begins the same as the dinner and continues likewise until the coffee is served, when the ladies retire to the drawing-room to partake of theirs, to listen to music, or to withdraw unceremoniously.
If the lunch should be intended for gentlemen only, suppress all ornamentation except the flowers and fruits; the menu should be more substantial, and if for ladies and gentlemen together, serve the same as for a dinner, observing the same etiquette.
A meat breakfast is composed of broiled meats, cold meat, fish, eggs, croustades, fried dishes, sweets and dessert.
Radishes, celery, olives, anchovies, caviare, sardines, fresh butter, artichokes poivrade, smoked breasts of goose, canapés of ham, gherkins, shrimps, mortadella, cucumbers, Lyons sausage, mackerel in oil, tomatoes and pickles.
Oysters or Little Neck clams.
Broiled -mackerel, shad, smelts, perch, trout, herrings.
Fried -codfish, fillets of flounders, whitebait, frost fish.
Baked -sheepshead, bass, English soles, redsnapper, kingfish.
Boiled -salmon, groupper, halibut, skate, cod's tongues.
Sautéd -weakfish, lobsters, mussels, bluefish, whitefish.
Omelets, scrambled, fried, poached, boiled soft and hard, soft, moulded or on a dish.
Broiled -pig's feet, sausages, blood sausages, sliced venison.
Fried -chicken, tendons of lamb, crawfish cutlets.
Sautéd -tripe, chicken, kidneys, tournedos, calf's liver.
Baked -sweetbreads, lamb chops in papers, quails, pigeons in cases.
Braized -calf's head, sheep's trotters, grenadins of veal.
Broiled -porterhouse steak, sirloin steak, tenderloin of beef, veal, mutton and lamb chops.
Game pie, terrine of goose-livers (foies-gras.)
Boned duck, chicken mayonnaise.
Game or broiled or roast poultry, with green salad.
If so far no eggs have been mentioned in the bill of fare, then fruit or spirituous omelets of all kinds may be served, or else Celestine omelet, snow soufflé, etc., but in case eggs have already been used, then diversify the bill of fare by giving fritters, crusts, pancakes, pears, apples, peaches, etc. Have also pies, tarts and cakes as well as cheese and fresh fruit.
Coffee and Liquors.
The breakfast table must be laid simpler, although with as much care and taste as for all other meals; naturally there is less ceremony to be observed for a breakfast, the simplicity of the bill of fare and wines rendering it far easier to serve. The hors-d'œuvre and fruit may be placed on the table, and when a dressy appearance is desired, flowers or high cold pieces, such as meat pies, chaufroids, aspics, trout or salmon, may also be added.
The service for the wines and cooking is exactly the same as for a dinner.
Good cooking is only obtained by having all the ingredients healthy, appetizing and nutritious; the stomach must not be fatigued, and yet the eye and the palate have to be somewhat flattered. A dish may be more or less simple, more or less difficult, but it must satisfy the taste and to obtain this result a cook should only use the best materials and those of the very freshest.
All the supplies should be of the very first choice; the best cook in the world can fail to work properly unless the provisions are of the best. A cook anxious to perform his duty must pay the strictest attention to the selection of the food; this alone constitutes a science based on a deep knowledge and long practice.
Beef must have light red, marbled meat, the fat being firm to the touch.
Veal meat to be white and firm, also its fat.
Mutton has red meat firm and marbled, the fat to be white.
Pork must be carefully selected from pigs raised on acorns or corn, having firm, white meat, and firm, white, brittle fat.
Chickens to be plump, the breast bone flexible, the ribs easily cracked. Pinch the pinion bones to see whether they are tender; the same of turkeys, other poultry and game. Old fowls can never replace young chickens, therefore use them as little as possible. A fish is to have a clear, fresh eye and must be firm to the touch; mistrust it as soon as the belly flesh becomes soft; the smell will indicate whether it be fresh or stale; the same of crustaceans.
Vegetables to be selected of the very freshest.
Fruits by their appearance and taste.
Index for American Fish and when they are in Season. S indicates when in season.
Index for American fish, and when they are in season. S indicates when in season.
Index for Poultry and when it is in season. S indicates when in season.
In case no fresh ones are procurable, frozen poultry can be found every day of the year.
