Title: The Epicurean. A Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on The Culinary Art, Including...
Author: Ranhofer, Charles.
Publisher: New York, C Ranhofer.




View page [583]

[Editorial note: This is the Second Part of the Book. Recipes 1 - 1820 are contained in the First Part of the Book. Recipes and Pages that belong to the First Part of the Book, are not linked here.]

> POULTRY. (Volaille).



(1821). CAPON à L'AMPHYTRION (Chapon à l'Amphytrion).

A capon is a castrated cock fattened for the table; truss a good capon as for an entrée (No. 178) selecting it white and very fat, fill the inside with a delicate quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) with truffles into which mix some chestnuts roasted in the oven and broiled Chipolata sausages after removing their skins, and stoned verdal olives; rub the breast over with half a lemon, then cover with bards of fat pork. Cook the capon as for poêler (No. 12) and when done, dress on a rice foundation and garnish around with clusters of channeled mushrooms (No. 118) with half-glaze stuffed tomatoes, and whole truffles with glaze (No. 402), a little Madeira and butter, strain the stock, free it of its fat and reduce with the same quantity of velouté (No. 415). Insert three skewers garnished with glazed truffles and crawfish on top and serve the sauce separately.





(1822). CAPON à LA BRESSOISE (Chapon à la Bressoise).

Singe, draw and clean well a fine capon; make a forcemeat by soaking a pound of bread-crumbs in milk, then pressing out all the liquid and adding seasoning and eight ounces of very finely chopped beef marrow and three whole eggs. Stuff, truss and tie up the capon as for an entrée (No. 178). Place in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of lard and half a pound of fresh fat pork cut up in quarter inch squares, lay the capon on top and brown it slowly, then wet with some stock (No. 194a) and simmer, adding more liquid when needed until thoroughly cooked. Strain the gravy, free it of fat and untie the capon, dressing it in the middle of an oval dish, pour the well-reduced gravy over, serving a poulette sauce (No. 527) separately.





(1823). CAPON à LA FINANCIèRE (Chapon à la Financière).

This relevé is dressed on an oval wooden bottom having in the center a four-sided tin support made hollow so that it be lighter. This wooden bottom and support must both be covered with a cooked paste or else of noodle paste (No. 142) dried in the air. Fasten a string of noodle paste of about three-eighths of an inch in diameter on the edge of the socle; this is intended for upholding the capons and garnishing. On the edge of the bowl of the plate, place a noodle paste border (No. 10). Prepare the capons as for an entrée (No. 178) having them stuffed with a stuffing made of cooked chicken livers, grated fresh lard, truffle parings, bread-crumbs, salt and cayenne pepper. Cover over with bards of fat pork placed in a narrow braziere (Fig. 134) moisten with sufficient stock (No. 194a) to cover the capons, add aromatic herbs and lemon pulp free of seeds and peel, then cook on a good fire, having the liquid reduce to one-third, at the last moment drain off the capons, untie and dress one on each side of the support inserting a garnished skewer on top; fill in the sides between the capons with a varied garnishing composed of mushrooms, cocks'-combs and quenelles; cover over either with a velouté sauce (No. 415) if needed for white or a financiére sauce (No. 464) if for brown; surround the base with a row of peeled truffles cooked in wine and glazed over with a brush, and serve apart a velouté sauce reduced with mushroom broth if for the white or else a brown financière sauce with Madeira.





(1824). CAPON à LA PONDICHéRY (Chapon à la Pondichéry).

Draw, singe and truss a capon for an entrée (No. 178), chop up finely a few onions, fry them colorless in butter, add to it some rice and moisten to three times its height with beef stock (No. 194a) seasoning with cayenne pepper, salt and butter; let boil then cook in the oven for twenty minutes. Line a buttered saucepan with carrots, onions and slices of fat pork, lay the capon on top and moisten with a little stock (No. 194a); let this reduce entirely then add more moistening and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. When the capon is done strain the stock, remove the fat and add it to the capon to keep it warm. Reduce the skimmed stock with velouté sauce (No. 415), curry, saffron and powdered sweet Spanish peppers; dress the rice on the bottom of a dish, lay the capon on top and cover it with a third of the sauce, serving the other two-thirds in a separate sauce-boat.






View page [584]


(1825). CAPON à LA RéGENCE (Chapon à la Régence).

Singe, draw, and remove the breast bones from two capons; fill the breasts with seasoned butter, then truss as for an entrée (No. 178); lard the breasts with fine lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), and cover the unlarded parts with slices of fat pork. Put the capons in a covered braziere (Fig. 134), and moisten them with mirepoix (No. 419), to a little above their wings; cover over with buttered paper, and leave to simmer slowly for one hour. Uncover the braziere, take off the paper, and glaze all the larded parts. Have four larded sweetbreads, ten large truffles, twelve fine cocks'-combs, and eight big crawfish. Make a garnishing with chicken quenelles and mushrooms, combining these with some régence sauce (No. 532). Cut a piece of bread-crumb ten and half inches long by four and a quarter wide, and three and a half inches high, it to be conical-formed; fry this, then attach it to the center of a dish with repère paste (No. 142), so that it can support the two capons; have these well drained and arrange them to rest against the bread, the rump parts uppermost. Pour the prepared garnishing into the bottom of the dish; place two large sweetbreads below the two breasts, and two more in the middle intersections, then two crawfish on each side of the sweetbreads; glaze the sweetbreads and the larded parts of the capon and serve with a régence sauce apart. Make six hatelets with the cocks'-combs and the truffles (Fig. 11), and fasten them in tastefully.





(1826). CAPON LEGS WITH TRUFFLES. ROAST CAPON (Cuisses de Chapon aux Truffes. Chapon Rôti).

Bone entirely six legs taken from medium-sized and very tender capons; remove carefully the sinews, then season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; stuff them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which mix half as much small squares of foies-gras; sew them up and braise in a mirepoix and white wine stock (No. 419); moisten slowly, being most careful to baste frequently, and when done, withdraw the threads, glaze and dress the legs on the strained and skimmed stock. Serve separately a supreme sauce (No. 547), with sliced truffles added.


Roast Capon.--Stand the capon on the grater fitting in the roasting pan; for this see the plate in roasted sirloin of beef (No. 306); have the bird trussed for roasting (No. 179). The grater is used so that the meat does not lie in the dripping, this being the best way to attain perfect results in roasting, but attention must be paid to keep turning it over and basting frequently with the dripping fat; care must also be observed not to allow this fat to burn, and in order to avoid this pour a little hot water from time to time into the pan. After the capon is nicely done, withdraw untruss, and serve it on a very hot dish; drain off all the fat so that only the glaze remains in the pan, detach this with a clear gravy (No. 404), strain the gravy, remove the fat and pour a part of it over the capon, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat.



> CHICKEN (Poulet).



(1827). CHICKEN BREASTS à LA CHEVREUSE (Estomacs de Poulet à la Chevreuse).

Dip the breasts of two or three chickens in boiling water, lard them with some fillets of ham, and truffles cut the size shown (No. 4, Fig. 52), braise and as soon as cooked drain and arrange them against a triangle-shaped bread support; between each chicken lay a group of truffles, one of olives and another of quenelles; pour some suprême sauce (No. 547) around them and serve more in a sauce-boat.





(1828). CHICKEN à LA DELISLE--BROILED (Poulet Grillé à la Delisle).

Split a chicken in two through the back after having drawn, singed and cleansed it well; trim it nicely, remove the lights and season with salt and prepared red pepper (No. 168), dip in melted butter, then roll in bread-crumbs and broil over a slow fire; serve on a garnishing prepared as follows: Peel four medium tomatoes, cut them in four, press out the seeds and fry in butter with finely shredded green peppers, adding a little kneaded butter (No. 579), let simmer until thoroughly done. Prepare a low oval border of Piedmontese risot (No. 739) with parmesan; unmold on a dish and lay the tomatoes in the center with the broiled chicken on top; trim the drum sticks with frills (No. 10), and serve very hot.





[Illustration: An illustration of a whole chicken.]





View page [585]


(1829). CHICKEN à LA IRVING--BROILED AND STUFFED (Poulet Farci et Grillé à la Irving).

Procure very young chickens each one to weigh a pound and a quarter; draw, singe and clean them well picking out all the pin feathers; split them in two through the back, and take off the meat from the legs without injuring the skin; chop up this meat with the same quantity of fresh fat pork, a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and half as much bread-crumbs; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, adding one whole egg; lay this dressing in the inside part of the chickens, cover with melted butter and besprinkle with bread-crumbs; lay them on a double hinged broiler to broil very slowly but to a fine color. Fry colorless one tablespoonful of onions with as much small squares of raw ham; moisten with a gill of veal blond (No. 423), a gill of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and a gill of tomato purée (No. 730); let the whole simmer for ten minutes, then strain the sauce through a fine sieve and pour it into the bottom of the dish; sprinkle over with chopped parsley and lay the stuffed chickens on top.





(1830). CHICKEN WITH BACON, MAîTRE-D'HôTEL-BROILED (Poulet Grillé au Petit Salé à la Maître-d'Hôtel).

Singe a good small chicken, draw and clean it well plucking out all the feathers; leave the pinions on; cut off the legs one inch below the joint and split the chicken down through the back to open it entirely; take out the breast bone and lights, clean the insides properly decreasing the bones of the carcass; beat the chicken in order to flatten it, and pare (Fig. 353), then lay it in a dish and baste with melted butter or oil; season with salt and place it in a double broiler to broil over a slow fire for fifteen to twenty minutes; after the chicken has acquired a fine color and is properly done, dress it on an oval hot dish and cover with some maître-d'hôtel butter (No. 581), surround with slices of bacon and serve.





(1831). CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON GRAVY OR SAUCE--BROILED (Poulet Grillé au Jus àl'Estragon ou à la Sauce à l'Estragon).

Draw a young pound and a half chicken, cut off the legs at the first joint, cut a slit in the chicken near the pope's nose and pass the stump bone through the slit; split the chicken in two lengthwise, pare each part, beat down to flatten, season and roll in melted butter, then in white bread-crumbs and broil on both sides turning over when the meats are found to be done. Dress the two half chickens on a hot dish garnish the leg bones with frills (No. 10), and serve with some good tarragon gravy or else with tarragon sauce (No. 548).





(1832). CHICKEN COCOTTE (Poulet en Cocotte).

Cut up one small pound and a quarter to pound and a half chicken; season with pepper, only divide it into four parts, the two legs and the breast part cut in two; put the pieces in the bottom of a cocotte (small earthen saucepan, Fig. 354) with a little piece of butter the size of a nut, placing the legs underneath and the breasts on top, add a small bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and over lay two ounces of unsmoked bacon cut in five-eighths inch squares blanched, then fried in butter, also a dozen and half pieces of potato-shaped like cloves of garlic and as many small raw onions fried to a light color in butter; lay here and there half an ounce more butter, put on the lid and push into a moderate oven for half an hour. The cocotte should stand directly on the bottom of the oven; turn the ingredients over carefully ranging the meat on top of the vegetables; let cook for another ten to fifteen minutes, then add a little clear gravy (No. 404) and chopped parsley; toss and serve in the cocotte itself.





[Illustration: An illustration of a pot with a mouth on the left.]




(1833). éPIGRAMMES OF CHICKEN à LA VOLNAY (épigrammes de Poulet à la Volnay).

Raise the fillets from four chickens, remove the minion fillets and skin, bone thoroughly and stuff the thighs, then put them into half heart-shaped bottomless molds three-eighths of an inch high, braise and leave to cool under the pressure of a weight; pare, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs


View page [586]
and fry nicely. Sauté the breasts on a moderate fire, drain and dress them in a circle alternated with the thighs, decorate with fancy favor frills (No. 10); and fill the center with a garnishing of whole chestnuts, truffles, mushrooms and cover with velouté sauce (No. 415) that has been thickened at the last moment with egg-yolks and raw cream.





(1834). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA BéRANGER (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Béranger).

Raise the fillets or wings with the pinions attached from six roasted chickens of two pounds each, having them well larded and not too much cooked; pare nicely, suppressing the skin and lay them in a sautoir with well buttered cream béchamel (No. 411). Dress them in a circle with a croûton of unsmoked red beef tongue between each piece. Add some mushroom heads to the béchamel and use them to fill in the center of the circle; lay on top half-spherical decorated chicken quenelles and garnish around with small half heart bread croûtons fried in butter and having their pointed ends dipped first in meat glaze (No. 402), then in chopped parsley. The word "ailes" should be used in preference to the word "filets" in making French menus, to avoid the repetition of this word which appears so often in French.





(1835). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA BODISKO (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Bodisko).

Raise the large fillets from six two pound chickens; suppress the skin and split them in two through their thickness without detaching the parts; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and fill up the opened space with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) mixed with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Break six egg-yolks in a dish, add two gills of melted butter and beat them together; dip the fillets into this and then roll them in bread-crumbs; lay them on a buttered baking pan, pour butter over and cook in a hot oven, then drain. Trim the pointed ends with favor frills (No. 10), and dress the fillets in a circle filling the center with cèpes fried in butter, moistened with sour cream and reduced. Serve separately a well buttered white bordelaise sauce (No. 436), thickening it with egg-yolks and butter, straining it through a tammy.





(1836). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA CéRTOSA (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Cértosa).

Clean well six good fleshy chickens; raise the fillets covered with their skin and sauté them in butter. Prepare a fine Julienne (No. 318) with the red part of carrots blanched in an abundance of water, drained and fried in butter with mushrooms, cut the same shape and size, and also some truffles cut likewise. Add the Julienne to the chickens, moisten with very little broth (No. 194a), and Marsala wine, cover the saucepan and let cook in a slack oven; baste and moisten the chicken slowly, and as soon as the sauce is found to be sufficiently reduced, thicken it with velouté sauce (No. 415), egg-yolks, and cream, then dress the fillets in a pyramid, and pour the sauce over; garnish around with bread-crumb croûtons cut heart-shaped, and fried in butter.





(1837). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA CHISELHURST (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Chiselhurst).

Raise the fillets from six two pound chickens; pare, suppress the skin, and lard six of them with small shreds of larding pork (No. 3, Fig 52) and the other six with slices of truffles the same size as the pork; pare the minion fillets and lard six with smaller pork lardons than those used for the fillets, and the other six with small pieces of truffles cut the same size. Lay them in two separate buttered sautoirs, the truffles in one and the larding pork in the other, having previously given the minion fillets the shape of a crescent. Cover over the truffled fillets with thin lardon of fat pork, and cook those larded with pork on a brisk fire while those with truffles are to be cooked more slowly. Dress in a circle alternating the two kinds, and fill the center with balls of truffle mingled with supreme sauce (No. 547). Place the truffled minions on top of the larded fillets and the larded minions on top of the truffled fillets; cover with a light supréme sauce, serving some of the sauce in a sauce-boat.





[Illustration: An illustration of a minion fillet. ]




[Illustration: An illustration of a minion fillet in the shape of a crescent.]





View page [587]


(1838). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA CUSSY (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Cussy).

Pare twelve chicken fillets being careful to keep the minion fillets aside, beat these large fillets to flatten them, then pare into half hearts, rounded on one side and pointed on the other, season with salt and white pepper. Take the minion fillets, the parings and as much raw chicken meat and with it prepare a cream forcemeat (No. 75), adding to it a quarter as much very fine mushroom purée (No. 722). Pour clarified butter into a sautoir, heat it well and range the chicken fillets on top simply to stiffen on one side only; drain them off leaving the butter in the pan and place the fillets on a baking sheet, one beside the other, cover with buttered paper and let get cold without any pressure, then pare. Cover these fillets with the cream forcemeat, smooth them well rounded on the top and range them once more in the sautoir containing the butter, place them in the oven to finish cooking and to poach the forcemeat; brush them over with butter as soon as the forcemeat becomes sufficiently solid not to have them spoiled, then dress them rosette-shaped on a dish, garnishing each pointed end with a favor frill (No. 10). Serve with a well buttered supreme sauce (No. 547), part of it poured under the fillets and the other part served separately.





[Illustration: An oval shape of chicken fillet.]




(1839). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à L'éCARLATE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à l'écarlate).

Take the fillets from six medium chickens, remove all the skin and epidermis, detach the minion fillets and free them of the sinew and skin which covers them, streak them with pieces of beef tongue and form into rings and place in a buttered sautoir. Sauté the large fillets over a brisk fire with butter. Cut twelve slices of very red beef tongue into half hearts the size of the fillets and three-sixteenths of an inch thick; warm them in stock (No. 194a) and just when ready to serve, drain and decorate each fillet with a favor frill (No. 10), dress in a circle having them intercalated with the half-hearts of tongue. Poach the minion fillet rings, fill the inside of the circle with a garnishing composed of small mushroom heads, truffle balls and quenelles all mixed with velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with cream, and range the minion fillets around the whole; serve a well buttered velouté sauce separately.





(1840). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS, CHEVALET à L'éCUYèRE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet Chevalet à l'écuyère).

Prepare the large fillets and minion fillets the same as for Harrison (No. 1844), lay them on sheets of tin bent into semicircles three inches by one and a half high, well buttered and maintain both fillets on this mold with wooden skewers run through holes bored in the tin, laying the streaked minion fillets on top of the larger fillets underneath (Fig. 358) baste over with butter and cook in a slow oven. Truss some fine crawfish cooked à la bordelaise, dress them crown-shaped on a dish garnished with a tomato purée (No. 730) and lay the fillets of chickens on top of the crawfish; serve separately a bordelaise sauce (No. 436) made with white wine and having three-sixteenths inch squares of mushrooms added.





[Illustration: A semicircles tin with wooden skewer run through holes bored in the tin.]




(1841). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A L'IMPéRATRICE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet Impératrice).

Procure six young chickens each one weighing about a pound and a half; lift off the breasts with the pinions and large fillets attached and suppress all sinews and skin. Chop the fillets on both sides without penetrating through the flesh and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; dampen the surfaces with egg-white, besprinkle with very finely chopped truffles and over these spread a very thin layer of cream forcemeat (No. 75); dip in fresh bread-crumbs and lay them on a buttered sheet, pour butter over and cook in a hot oven. Make some croustades in half heart-shaped buttered bottomless molds lined with puff paste fragments (No. 149) rolled out thin; line them with buttered paper and fill them with rice and then cook in a moderate oven; when done empty out and fill up with bits of celery cut in quarter-inch dice blanched, cooked in broth and fallen to a glaze, then mingled with velouté sauce (No. 415) and thickened; when ready to use with egg-yolks diluted in cream and a few small pats of butter. Lay the breasts on top of these croustades, trim the pinions with paper frills (No. 10) and serve very hot.






View page [588]


(1842). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS, EPICUREAN (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à l'Epicurienne).

Prepare the fillets of six young two-pound chickens, observing that they be white and tender; remove the skin and epidermis and lard them with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52), place them in a buttered sautoir and let cook to attain color in a very hot oven, then drain and decorate with frills (No. 10). Streak each minion fillet with six round thin slices of truffles, roll them into rings and place them in a buttered sautoir to poach in the oven without coloring. Dress the large fillets on a forcemeat ring and decorate the outside with the minion fillets. Detach the glaze from the bottom of the sautoir with a little sherry wine, free it of all fat and add a little velouté sauce (No. 415); thicken just when ready to serve with raw egg-yolks diluted with cream and fresh butter; run the sauce through a tammy and pour a part over the breasts and minions and the balance in a sauce-boat. Make twelve five-eighths of an inch diameter balls with foies-gras taken direct from a terrine, rubbed through a sieve; dip them in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry in very hot frying fat; place one of these balls in the center of each minion fillet ring and serve at once.





[Illustration: A large piece of chicken fillet rounded by minion fillets that streaked with thin slices of truffles.]




(1843). CHICKEN FILLETS OR WINGS à LA GéNIN (Filets ou Ailes de Poulets à la Génin).

Take the skin covered fillets from six chickens with the wings, and after paring them neatly, sauté them in butter over a good fire, seasoning with salt and pepper; when done and a fine color, add a little finely chopped shallots and let these fry with the chicken fillets, then add some finely minced fresh mushrooms; when these have evaporated their humidity, moisten with white wine and finish with a little chicken glaze (No. 398). Dress the wings on half heart-shaped bread croûtons fried in butter; add a little velouté sauce (No. 415) to the sauce, reduce and season properly, finishing it with a little foies-gras; pass through a fine sieve, pour over the fillets, sprinkle chopped parsley over and serve very hot.





(1844). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA HARRISON (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Harrison)

Pare twelve raw chicken fillets to the shape of half hearts; lift off the minion fillets and remove the sinews and fine skin which covers, then cut six bias incisions through half of the thickness of these minions and in each of them lay a thin round slice of truffle. Place the fillets in a buttered sautoir and the scored minions on top lengthwise, pour butter over and cover with a strong buttered paper; cook for ten to twelve minutes on a slow fire. Prepare some boned terrapin à la Maryland (No. 1085); spread a quarter inch thick layer of this on a baking sheet and when cold cut it up into oblong pieces, one and three-quarters wide by three and a half long; dip these pieces in eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry to a fine color; drain, wipe and dress the fillets flat on these terrapin crusts. Pour a little half-glaze (No. 400) with Madeira in the bottom of the dish and serve with a separate sauce-boat of espagnole sauce (No. 414) into which squeeze the juice of an orange, adding a dash of cayenne pepper, meat glaze (No. 402) and plenty of butter.





[Illustration: A chicken fillet cut in the shape of half heart.]




(1845). CHICKEN FILLETS AND BREASTS à LA LORENZO (Filets et Ailes de Poulets à la Lorenzo).

Raise the breasts with the fillets from six young, one pound and three-quarters to two pound chickens; lift off the skin and epidermis, also the minion fillets; place the breasts on a buttered baking sheet with the minions scored with truffles on top, laying them along the thick edge of the breasts; pour over butter and cover with buttered paper, then cook in a moderate oven; garnish the minions with paper frills (No. 10). Dress crown-shaped and fill the inside with a Lorenzo garnishing made as follows:


Lorenzo Garnishing.--Have espagnole sauce (No. 414) with a few tarragon leaves added, celery cut in one inch pieces, blanched and cooked in broth (194a); blanched olives stoned and filled with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) containing anchovies, whole chestnuts cooked in broth; artichoke bottoms pared into half hearts, three six-sixteenths inch squares of truffles and some large capers. The border for chicken breasts à la Lorenzo, are made oval and in the following manner: Butter a mold (Fig. 139) with butter softened without being melted; decorate the sides either with fanciful cuts of truffles, or tongue, or even both; fill it up with cream forcemeat (No. 75) or quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and lay this border in a sautoir; pour boiling water around, set it in a slow oven and when poached, meaning when firm to the touch, unmold and dress the breasts on top and the garnishing in the center.





[Illustration: An oval shaped of chicken fillet.]





View page [589]


(1846) CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA LUCULLUS (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Lucullus).

The large and the minion fillets are to be prepared as described in the Harrison fillets (No. 1814), lay them in a buttered sautoir, twisting slightly so as to have them assume the shape of a chop; lay the minion fillets on the outside edge of the large fillet, mask with melted butter, cover with a strong buttered paper and cook in a slack oven for twelve to fifteen minutes; trim the pointed ends with favor frills (No. 10); dress the fillets in a circle filling up the inside with a garnishing of truffles and tongue balls half an inch in diameter, also capon kidneys, all to be mixed with béarnaise sauce (No. 433) into which has been stirred a few spoonfuls of meat-glaze (No. 402).





[Illustration: A half heart liked chicken fillet.]




(1847). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS, à LA MARCEAU (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Marceau).

Remove the breasts from six chickens each one of them to weigh from a pound and a half to two pounds; suppress the skin and sinews and lift off the minion fillets to streak with truffles; pare the large fillets into half heart-shapes, and lay them in a buttered sautoir; place the minion fillets on the outer edges, pour over butter, cover with buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven. Fill with cream chicken forcemeat (No. 75) some flat quarter inch thick half heart-shaped molds, placed on a sheet of buttered paper and poach very lightly, then sauté on both sides in butter and dress unmolded in a circle with the chicken fillets on top. Prepare a Marceau sauce (No. 495); when ready to serve add a little fresh butter; fill the middle of the circle with small mushroom heads fried in butter, cover over with a part of the sauce and send the remainder to accompany the dish poured into a separate sauce-boat.





[Illustration: A large thick chicken fillet that pared into half heart-shape.]




(1848). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA MARéCHALE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Maréchale).

Pare twelve raw chicken fillets; remove the minion fillets, and suppress the senews and skin which covers them, then marinate in salt, pepper, parsley leaves, and lemon juice. Make an incision on one side of these large fillets, and fill it in with a Duxelle (No. 385), or else fine herbs cooked with truffles; dip in beaten eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs, and baste with clarified butter; immerse them once more in the bread-crumbs, and put on them a buttered baking sheet; pour melted butter over, and brown in a brisk oven, or else broil over a slow fire, or even sauté them in clarified butter; trim with favors (No. 10) and dress in a circle filling in the inside with a Toulouse garnishing (No. 766). Dip the minion fillets in a fine light frying batter (No. 137), roll them up into rings, and when fried and have attained a fine color, drain and dress pyramidically over the Toulouse garnishing. A suprême sauce (No. 547) to be served separately.





(1849). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA MIRABEAU (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Mirabeau).

Keep the minion fillets when removing the fillets or wings from the chickens; suppress all the skin and sinews from the large fillets, take off the minion fillets and marinate the larger ones for two hours in a vessel containing salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice, thyme, bay leaf, and parsley leaves, turning them over frequently; remove, drain, and roll in flour, then in beaten eggs, and lastly in bread-crumbs; fry in clarified butter. Pare the minion fillets into oblongs, spread over a layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and roll them into cylinder shapes, now range them inside a buttered timbale mold and let cook in a slow oven. Dress the chicken breasts in the center of a dish on top of a little Mirabeau sauce (No. 500), surround them with the prepared paupiettes, and on every one of these lay a channeled mushroom (No. 118) cooked and glazed in chicken glaze (No. 398). Serve with a sauce-boatful of the same sauce.






View page [590]


(1850). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA PATTI (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Patti).

Raise the large fillets from six young, two pound chickens that are quite fleshy, suppress the skin and epidermis; remove the minion fillets and from them the nerves and skin; streak these with red beef tongue. Cut an incision through one side of the large fillets without detaching the parts; turn over so that the cut part is now outside; fill in the inside with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which incorporate some foies-gras pressed through a sieve; make the fillet oval-shape like an egg, and lay the streaked minion fillet along the top of it. Place in a buttered sautoir, cover each fillet with a thin slice of fat pork, and cook in a moderate oven. Prepare a cream forcemeat (No. 75) border decorated with pistachios; poach, unmold, and dress with the fillets or breasts over, garnishing with favor frills (No. 10); fill the inside of this border with very thick, well buttered chicken purée (No. 713), into which add half the same quantity of rice boiled in almond milk (No. 4). Garnish around with sliced truffles heated in a little meat glaze (No. 402), butter and Madeira, and serve with a sauce-boatful of supreme sauce (No. 547).





[Illustration: An oval-shape liked fillet laid with streaked minion fillet along the top of it.]




(1851). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA PRIMATICE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Primatice).

Clean and singe six two pound chickens; lift off the large fillets and detach the minions, remove the skin and epidermis from the large fillets and lay them in a buttered sautoir. Suppress the sinews from the minion fillets, also the fine skin which covers and cut six incisions at equal distances on their length; insert an oblong piece of truffle into the first incision beginning at the smallest end; an oblong of tongue into the second incision, and so on, alternating them until the entire six are filled, then twist the minions into a round-shape and place them in a buttered sautoir; use a cornet to push into the centers some forcemeat having half quenelle (No. 89) and half cream (No. 75), both well mixed together and set a round piece of truffle on top, having it an eighth of an inch thick by three-quarters of an inch in diameter, pour over melted butter, cover over with strong buttered paper and cook in a slack oven for six to eight minutes. Sauté the large fillets on a quick fire, then dress them in a flat circle over croûtons of bread cut the same shape, but slightly narrower. On each fillet lay one minion fillet and fill the inside of the circle with a garnishing of fillets of mushrooms an eighth of an inch wide by five-eighths of an inch long; green peas, lozenge-shaped string beans, the red part of a carrot cut in triangles, quarter of an inch squares of turnips, truffles cut olive-shaped, and semi-circular pieces of tongue, all of those being added to a little velouté (No. 415) and fresh butter. Have a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with truffle essence (No. 395) served at the same time, but separately.





(1852). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA PRINCIèRE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Princière).

Choose six well-cleansed chickens, each one to weigh a pound and three-quarters to two pounds; remove the large fillets leaving the pinion on, with the bone kept rather long; lift off the minion fillets, also suppress the large fillets' skin and the thin skin covering the minions; dip the latter in egg-whites, then roll in very finely chopped pistachios, previously run through a sieve; twist them around the finger to form a circle and place them in a buttered sautoir; cover with a sheet of buttered paper and poach just when ready to serve only; this will take but five minutes on a moderate fire. Chop the surface of the large fillet without misshaping it whatever, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, then cover over with chicken forcemeat and dredge or throw over finely chopped truffles, lay these in a buttered sautoir, shaping them all alike, six with the pinions on the right and six with the pinions on the left, then cook in a slack oven. When done remove and run a ring cut from beef tongue a quarter of an inch thick on the pinion bone and decorate this also with a frill (No. 10). Dress crown-shaped filling in the interior with a garnishing composed of cocks'-combs and kidneys, also slices of foies-gras, the whole combined with supreme sauce (No. 547). Poach the minion fillets and dress them around, serving with a sauce-boatful of the supreme sauce.





[Illustration: A half heart-shaped chicken fillet.]





View page [591]


(1853). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA SADI-CARNOT (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Sadi-Carnot).

To be made with twelve breasts. Fry a chopped shallot in butter keeping it quite colorless and add to it two tablespoonfuls of finely minced truffles, three tablespoonfuls of minced fresh mushrooms and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; fry the whole for a few moments on the fire, then add a little chicken glaze (No. 398), season and let get partially cold before stirring in three raw egg-yolks. Remove the skin and epidermis from the breasts and cut five gashes on the top of the minion fillets; introduce in each gash a thin round of truffle half an inch in diameter form the fillets into rings and lay them in a buttered sautoir, filling their interiors with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and on top of this set a five-eighths of an inch round of truffle. Split the large fillets through their sides and fill them with the above preparation, then range them in a sautoir with clarified butter and lemon juice; sauté, drain, garnish with favor frills (No. 10) and dress in a circle on half heart-shaped croûtons of bread-crumbs fried in butter, cover with a tomato sauce (No. 549) and Béarnaise sauce (No. 433), mixed and garnish around the large fillets with the minion fillets, glazing the slices of truffles with meat glaze.





(1854). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA TOULOUSE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Toulouse).

Pare twelve raw chicken fillets; take off the minion fillets, cut in the large fillet a deep gash lengthwise without separating the pieces, turn the meat over so that the gashed part is now outside and fill in the inside with a well mixed quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and foies-gras that has been passed through a sieve half of each, having as much as would make an inch and a half diameter ball; envelop well this dressing in the flesh of the fillet, shaping them into pretty ovals and well rounded on the top (Fig. 364); put in more or less forcemeat, according to the size of the fillet so that when they are finished they look all alike; lay on top of each of these a small minion fillet streaked by cutting six incisions and placing in each one a thin slice of truffle proportioned to the size of the minion fillet. Cover the bottom of a sautoir with clarified butter, lay over the chicken fillets at equal distances apart, pour over more melted butter and cover with a strong buttered paper; cook them in a slow oven for twelve to fifteen minutes, drain, trim with favor frills (No. 10) and dress in a circle; pour into the center a Toulouse garnishing (No. 766).





(1855). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA VALENçAY (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Valençay).

Pare twelve raw chicken fillets without detaching the minion fillet; cut a gash down the whole length and in the middle of each fillet without separating the parts; turn the meat inside out fill the inside space with a preparation of chopped truffles fried in butter and thickened with meat glaze then allowed to cool off and mix with one egg-yolk. Dip each one of the fillets in velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with cream and when they are quite cold, immerse them in beaten eggs and roll in fresh white bread-crumbs; smooth them shapely with the blade of a knife. At the last moment range the fillets in a sautoir with clarified butter and brown them on both sides over a moderate fire; drain and trim with favor frills (No. 10). Dress in a circle filling the inside space with tomatoes prepared as follows: Cut medium-sized sound and peeled tomatoes into quarters, press out the juice and seeds, then fry them in butter seasoning with a little salt and sugar. Serve a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira separately.





[Illustration: A chicken fillet with minion fillet.]




(1856). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS à LA VALERRI (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Valerri).

Prepare twelve fillets by removing the thin skin covering them; remove the minion fillets to streak with red beef tongue; turn each one of these around a large Spanish olive, replacing its stone by quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), pushed through a cornet; on top of this forcemeat set a small truffle ball. Lay these in a buttered sautoir, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, and poach them in a slow oven, just when ready to use. Sauté the large fillets lightly with butter and lemon juice, and lay them under a weight, then divide them in two through their entire thickness. Range half of them very closely together, and pour over a layer of soubise (No. 723), having it a quarter of an inch thick, set the other twelve halves on top of these halves, and leave till cold, then pare them all evenly into half heart-shapes; dip each separate double piece in well reduced but partially cold


[Illustration: Chicken fillet without thin skin and minion fillets.]





[Illustration: A sauted mushroom.]





View page [592]
allemande sauce (No. 407), and let cool off again, then dip in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in clarified butter; drain, trim with favor frills (No. 10), and dress in a circle; fill up the center with mushrooms sautéd in butter and fine herbs, pour over some half-glaze (No. 400) and Madeira, and set the minion fillets on top of these mushrooms. Serve separately a sauce-boat of half glaze sauce (No. 413).





(1857). CHICKEN à LA VILLEROI (Poulet à la Villeroi).

An entrée of chicken à la Villeroi arranged and dressed as in Fig. 369 can be served at the most elegant dinners. This entrée is dressed on a wooden foundation with a round and slightly conical support in the center, both being covered with cooked or noodle paste (No. 142). Cook about fifteen fine, turned, very white, even sized mushroom heads. Select three good, tender chickens, not too large, but quite fleshy; when well cleaned, truss and cover over with thin slices of fat pork and "poêlé" them in some good stock (No. 12), keeping them quite rare; drain, untruss and cut each chicken into five pieces; first take the legs while still very hot, and quickly remove the large second joint bone; cut off the stump at two-thirds of its length and range them on a small baking tin, one beside the other, letting them cool off under a weight. Detach the upper part of the breasts from the bodies, suppress the breast bones, pare them into oblongs and also leave to cool. Remove the skin from the fillets, pare them prettily, detaching the pinion bone and cutting away the flesh from around. Trim the legs the same shape as the fillets and imitate the minion bone by the shortened stump. Dip each one of these pieces separately into a well seasoned, succulent and thick tomato sauce (No. 549) and Villeroi sauce (No. 560) mixed; return them at once to the same tin they were taken from, and leave to cool for a couple of hours; now take up the pieces one by one, detach any surplus of sauce and roll them immediately in fresh white bread-crumbs, then dip them in beaten eggs and bread-crumb once more; shake them nicely without handling them too much, and place them in a frying basket (Fig. 121); fry in very hot fat till a good color is acquired, then drain and dress the legs and fillets against the support almost upright one piece slightly overlapping the other; on the summit of the support lay a bed of fried parsley and over this the breasts pyramidically arranged; set the mushroom heads in a row around the bottom of the dish, cover over with a little of the velouté and serve the entrée at once.





[Illustration: A plate of chicken fillets arranged in a pyramid form with mushrooms garnished around them.]




(1858). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS AU SUPRêME (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet au Suprême).

Select six medium chickens of two pounds each, remove the large fillets, also their skin and epidermis; pare these into half hearts and range in a buttered sautoir; on top of the thickest part of these lay the minion fillet in a half circle after it has been scored; pour over butter and the juice of a lemon, cover with a buttered paper and cook in a hot oven. Set some supêrme sauce (No. 547) and chicken glaze (No. 389) in a sautoir and just when ready to serve stir in fresh butter, cream and six ounces of peeled and sliced truffles. Trim all the fillets with favor frills (No. 10) and dress them in a circle filling in the inside with the sliced truffles and sauce. Serve a sauce-boat of supreme sauce (No. 547) at the same time.





[Illustration: A half heart-shaped chicken breast laid with minion fillets on its thickest part of half circle.]




(1859). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS, MEXICAN STYLE, IN PAPERS (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet à la Mexicaine en Papillotes).

Remove the fillets from six fine medium-sized chickens; pare them leaving on the pinions and skin, then sauté them, and when done wrap them up in a matignon with white wine (No. 406), adding peeled tomatoes cut in eight pieces, fried in butter and seasoned with salt, pepper, and


View page [593]
chopped parsley. Prepare some sheets of paper heart-shaped and well oiled; place on one half a little of the cooked matignon, the tomatoes, some risot (No. 739) and fried sweet peppers; lay one of the breasts or fillets on top and cover with more of the ingredients, then close by pinching the two edges together all around and lay them on a buttered dish; place in a hot oven to beat the contents and color the paper; serve immediately.





(1860). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS WITH CUCUMBERS (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet aux Concombres).

Obtain some very small clean chickens, raise the fillets and remove the minion fillets; pare the large fillets, suppress the skin and lard the tops with fine lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52) of larding pork, season and range them in a sautoir with butter, place this on a hot fire and two minutes later, remove and put them into a hot oven to let cook rare, but of a fine color, then glaze over with a brush, remove, drain and garnish the ends with favor frills (No. 10). Dress into the middle of a hot dish a garnishing of purée of cucumbers (No. 714), smooth the surface with the blade of a knife and dress the chicken fillets on the outside, pouring some supreme sauce (No. 547) around and serving more in a sauce boat.





[Illustration: A small piece of chicken breast.]




(1861). CHICKEN FRICASSEE (Fricassée de Poulet).

Take a well cleansed chicken of two and a half to three pounds; cut the two fillets, the legs, the breast in one, back in two and two wings retaining all the skin. Fill a saucepan with cold water, and soak the pieces of chicken in it for one hour, then throw this off and replace it by one quart of cold water adding to it two medium onions, one containing a clove, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and thyme, salt and pepper. Cook the chickens, skim and let simmer gently, be sure that the chicken is cooked before taking them out, and when done, drain on a colander, then lay the pieces in cold water; make a roux with three ounces of butter and three ounces of flour, cook for a few moments without browning, then put in the chicken stock and the liquid from a pound of mushroom heads, as soon as the sauce comes to a boil, remove it to the corner of the range for half an hour. Pare and clean the pieces of chicken carefully, lay them in a low saucepan, remove all the fat from the sauce and pour it through a wire sieve on the chicken, cover and heat it over a slow fire, thicken with four egg-yolks and one ounce of butter by first diluting the yolks with a little of the sauce and increasing gradually until half the sauce is combined with the eggs, then stir it all together, set it on the fire and roll the pieces in; after the sauce thickens, strain it again through a tammy, add the mushrooms to the sauce. Dress the chicken by forming a high square with the two back pieces and the two wings, in the center of the dish; place the two fillets and two legs against the square and the piece of breast on top, cover with the sauce, putting the mushrooms on the four corners, pour the sauce over and garnish around with small round rice croquettes made with almond milk.





(1862). CHICKEN FRICASSEE à LA BOUCHARD (Fricassée de Poulet à la Bouchard).

Singe and cut up the chickens as for a plain fricassee (No. 1861), fry them without letting attain a color in some butter, and add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, mix well and pour in a pint of chablis wine, some broth (No. 194a), and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); cook very slowly and when done, take out the pieces of chicken; thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks and a little butter, pass the sauce through a tammy and just when ready to serve add two chopped blanched shallots; some tarragon leaves and chopped parsley. Pour this over the chicken, garnishing around with Villeroi oysters (No. 698), and mushroom heads fried in butter, then tossed in meat-glaze (No. 402), butter and lemon juice; serve immediately.





(1863). CHICKEN FRICASSEE à LA CHEVALIèRE (Fricassée de Poulet à la Chevalière).

After the chickens are singed, remove the pouch and raise the fillets whole, with the pinions; slide the blade of a keen, thin knife between the meat and skin covering the fillets, lard them over with fine shreds of pork and lay them in a lightly buttered sautéing pan. Pare the minion fillets and lard them with either truffles or tongue, then shape them into rounds, two and a quarter inches in diameter; place them in a buttered sautoir on thin slices of fat pork. Cut up the remainder of the chickens and cook them the same as for the plain chicken fricassee (No. 1861). Trim the


View page [594]
legs and bread-crumb them. Prepare and cook a croustade the same width as the serving dish, having it three inches high, glaze the larded fillets; cook the minion fillets, and fry the legs to a nice golden color. Dress the backs and wings in the center of the croustade; cover lightly with allemande sauce (No. 407), then range the legs leaving them against the backs; place the larded fillets between these legs, and the minion fillets around; in each of the latter set a fine glazed truffle, then glaze the fillets. Serve with a velouté sauce (No. 415), thickened when ready, with egg-yolks, butter, and cream; heat well without boiling, and throw in some chopped mushrooms.





(1864). CHICKEN FRICASSEE à LA FAVORITE (Fricassée de Poulet à la Favorite).

Prepare and cut up the chickens the same as for the plain fricassee (No. 1861); soak the pieces for half an hour, then drain and return them to the saucepan to moisten with white broth (No. 194a); cook the chicken, drain it in a colander, and run the liquid through a napkin; put it back on the fire to reduce to half adding eight gills of velouté sauce (No. 415), then reduce once more until the sauce adheres to the spoon, afterward finish with egg-yolks and butter. Strain through a tammy, and keep hot in a bain-marie. Wash thoroughly the pieces of cooked chicken in cold water; pare nicely, and place them in the sauce; after they are well heated, dress and garnish around with a cluster of carrot balls half an inch in diameter, blanched and cooked in white stock (No. 194a) and a little sugar, also small white onions cooked in white broth. Decorate the outside with small flat egg-plant croquettes containing mushrooms and truffles, and use also trussed crawfish for the ornamentation.





(1865). CHICKEN FRICASSEE à LA LUCIUS (Fricassée de Poulet à la Lucius).

Draw and singe a clean, white meat three pound chicken, cut it up into eight pieces and split the carcass in two, also the neck and legs, wash these pieces in tepid water, place them in a sauce-pan containing water to heat, simply to stiffen the meat, then drain, refresh and wipe well on a cloth. Boil half a pound of blanched rice in broth for twenty minutes, keeping it white and consistent; when ready pour it into a plain buttered border mold (Fig. 139), pressing it down well and keep it in a warm heater for eight minutes. Melt some butter in a saucepan, add to it the pieces of chicken with a garnished bouquet (No. 123), two quartered onions, salt and pepper corns, fry the chicken over a good fire without browning, dredge over a heaping spoonful of flour and continue cooking two minutes while stirring, take the saucepan from the fire, and pour in gradually some hot stock (No. 194a), stirring until it reaches boiling point; let cook for eight minutes on a moderate fire, then remove it to a slower fire to finish cooking the chicken; as fast as each of the pieces are done; the tenderest ones first, take them out, suppressing the legs and carcasses, then pare the remainder and lay them in another saucepan, strain the sauce, reduce it for a few moments to thicken, pour it over the chicken and finally finish the fricassee with a thickening of two raw egg-yolks, half a gill of cream and an ounce of butter divided in small pats; cook this thickening without letting it boil, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Dress the fricassee inside the rice border, unmold it on a hot dish, cover it moderately with the sauce and send the remainder to the table in a sauce-boat.





(1866). CHICKEN FRICASSEE à LA WALESKI (Fricassée de Poulet à la Waleski).

Take three medium chickens each one to weigh two pound and a half; cut both up into seven pieces each, the two legs, two fillets, two from the back and one breast bone; steep them in cold water for an hour, then drain and range in a saucepan; moisten to cover with broth (No. 194a) adding a medium carrot cut in four, a middle-sized onion, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, one clove, and peppercorns; allow the chickens to cook for fifteen minutes, then drain and reserve the broth; refresh and sponge the pieces on a cloth, paring them neatly. Melt three ounces of butter in a saucepan, lay in the pieces of chicken and fry rapidly without browning; a few moments later cover with some clear velouté sauce (No. 415), prepared with the chicken broth and a glassful of white wine; boil up this liquid once, then set the saucepan on one side of the fire to finish cooking the contents; when done, free the sauce of all its fat before straining it through a sieve into a sautoir, adding to it a few spoonfuls of mushroom broth. Reduce while stirring from the bottom of the sautoir until a thick, succulent sauce is obtained, then put in a thickening of six egg-yolks, and an ounce and a half of lobster butter (No. 580). Strain this through a tammy over the pieces of chicken, remaining in the saucepan. Just when serving squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Dress in a thin border of cream forcemeat (No. 75), decorated with truffles; surround this border with a circle of sautéd sweet peppers (No. 2769), with mushroom heads on top, and a trussed crawfish between every one. Serve the surplus of sauce in a sauce-boat.






View page [595]


(1867). CHICKEN FRICASSEE WITH CRUSTACEAN SAUCE (Fricassée de Poulet au Coulis de Crustacés).

Wash in plenty of water, then cook four dozen crawfish with white wine, an onion, parsley roots, thyme, bay leaf, a grain of pepper and salt; let cook over a brisk fire for five minutes, and after the first boil strain the broth through a fine sieve, then through a napkin; let it settle and pour the top off gently. Detach the tails from the crawfish bodies, pick out the meats, trim and keep them hot while covered. Chop up the tail parings and the claw meats, mix with an equal quantity of cooked chopped mushrooms, season and add a very thick béchamel (No. 409) reduced with a little chicken glaze (No. 398) so as to have a consistent preparation, then season with a coffeespoon of prepared red paper (No. 168); keep this in a bain-marie. Fasten a fried bread support on a dish. Put into a sautoir containing butter, two two-pound chickens each one divided into five pieces and parboiled in water, removing them at the first broil to drain, and fry in butter, keeping them white; season, dredge over a tablespoonful of flour for each chicken, moisten gradually with hot broth (No. 194a) and boil the liquid without ceasing to stir, letting it be in this state for eight to ten minutes; finish cooking the chickens over a slow fire. Use the crawfish hash to fill some hollow semicircular crusts; cover this with a layer of the reduced thick béchamel (No. 409) bestrew with grated parmesan and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123); when the chickens are ready dress them on the dish leaning against the prepared support intercalating them with the crawfish tails; reduce the sauce by incorporating into it a few spoonfuls of the crawfish liquor and thicken with four egg-yolks and half a gill of cream, finishing with red butter (No. 580). Strain some of this over the chickens and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat; surround the chickens with the filled crusts after they are baked and browned.





(1868). CHICKEN FRICASSEE WITH CURRY (Fricassée de Poulet au Kari).

Divide two small chickens of a pound and a half each after cleaning well into four distinct parts; pare them well. Put two or three spoonfuls of chopped onions in a saucepan and fry with butter till of a fine color; add the pieces of chicken, toss them for two minutes and season, sprinkling two dessertspoonfuls of powdered curry over. Moisten to their height with stock (No. 194a), put in a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. Peel and chop up a small sour apple, add it to the chicken and let cook over a slow fire, taking out the fillets as soon as they are done; then remove the legs and place them in another saucepan with the fillets. Strain the sauce and reduce it with a few spoonfuls of good raw cream and as much mushroom broth; take it off the fire, thicken with three egg-yolks diluted with cream and a piece of butter divided into small pats. Dress the chickens, cover over with the sauce and serve a vegetable dishful of Indian rice.





(1869). CHICKEN, MARINADE SAUCE-FRIED (Poulet Fritot à la Sauce Marinade).

Cut off the stumps and pinions from two chickens each one a pound and a half in weight, singe, draw and free them well of their pin feathers, cut them both into five pieces, two legs, two wings and the breast, suppress the second joint bones from the legs and the wish bone from the breast. Lay the pieces in a vessel to season and marinate in oil and lemon juice with sliced onions and parsley leaves; a quarter of an hour before serving, drain off the chickens, wipe them nicely on a cloth, dip in cold milk, roll in flour and plunge one piece at the time in hot frying fat, observing that those taking the longest to cook must be the first ones to be put in; fry them to a nice color, but not too rapidly, as fast as one piece is done, take it out and drain it on a cloth, salt over and dress in a pyramid on a folded napkin. Send to the table accompanied by a sauce-boatful of marinade sauce (No. 496), or else a poivrade sauce (No. 522), or a green sauce (No. 473).





(1870). CHICKEN, MéDICIS-FRIED (Poulet Fritot Médicis).

Lard two two and a half pound very white chickens with truffles after they have been singed, drawn and well cleaned. Braise them in a saucepan lined with bardes of fat pork and moistened with mirepoix stock (No. 419) and two gills of white wine, when done, lay them in an earthenware vessel and cover with their own strained broth, leaving them thus until thoroughly cold, then cut them up into ten medium-sized pieces each, making two of each fillet, two of each leg and two of the breastbone. Place these in a vessel with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, pepper and salt, leave them in this pickle for two hours. Heat about three pounds of good fresh lard,


View page [596]
when very hot, dip each separate piece of chicken in frying batter (No. 137), and then in the fat to fry to a fine color, having them thoroughly warmed throughout. Drain, salt over and dress in a pyramidical form on a dish covered with a folded napkin, garnishing the top with a bunch of fried parsley. Serve a cream béchamel sauce with chopped truffles (No. 411), separately.





(1871). GRENADES OF CHICKEN à LA RITTI (Grenades de Poulet à la Ritti).

Pare some chicken fillets, remove the skin and lard with the smallest sized lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52), place them in a sautoir, the bottom covered with thin bardes of fat pork, keeping the pointed ends lying toward the center of the pan; moisten with mirepoix stock (No. 419) and mushroom liquor, then cook on a hot fire and glaze, drain and dress them on croûtons the same size and shape. Put the minion fillets in a buttered sautoir after twisting them into rings, fill the centers through a cornet with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and on this lay a ball of truffle; cover with a sheet of buttered paper, poach in a slack oven. Dress the grenades in a circle and the minions around, fill the middle with some foies-gras, mixed with allemande sauce (No. 407), glaze the grenades with meat glaze (No. 402).





(1872). JAMBALAIA OF CHICKEN (Jambalaia de Poulet).

Cook a quarter of a pound of rice the same as explained below, having the grains swollen but not broken and keep it dry at the oven door. Cut three ounces of cooked lean ham in three-eighths inch dice, also six ounces of cooked chicken meat, suppressing all bones and skin and having them one size. Warm the ham in a sauté-pan with butter, add to it the pieces of chicken to heat while tossing, season and sprinkle over lightly with prepared red pepper (No. 168), then put in the well drained rice, toss it with the meats and pour the whole into a vegetable dish.


Indian Rice, which is generally served as a garnishing for chicken or veal is prepared with Indian rice, it having long, white and very perfect grains; plunge a sufficiency of this into a liberal supply of boiling water, after it has been washed and picked, and as soon as it ceases to crack between the teeth, drain it on a colander; wash it in tepid salted water, spread it on a large sieve covered with a white cloth and dry for a few moments at the oven door or else in a hot steamer. Dress on a vegetable dish, cover over and serve. This is the most simple and effectual method.





(1873). CHICKENS LEGS à LA SAULNIèRE-BIGARRURES (Bigarrures de Cuisses de Poulet à la Saulnière).

Bone the legs of some young chickens leaving on only half of the drumstick, season with salt and pepper, and fill the insides with chicken forcemeat (No. 89), mixing in with it one-third of cooked forcemeat (No. 73), and some chopped parsley; lard those taken from the right with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), and stud those taken from the left with truffles, covering these with thin slices of fat pork. Cook them in two low saucepans lined with fat pork and moistened with a mirepoix and white wine stock (No. 419); cover over with sheets of buttered paper, and cook in the oven. Glaze those that are larded, and when done drain and decorate with paper frills (No. 10). Dress in a circle filling up the interior space with a financière garnishing (No. 667).





(1874). CHICKENS' LEGS, AMERICAN STYLE--DEVILED (Cuisses de Poulet à l'Américaine à la Diable).

Broil slowly some chicken legs and when well done, dip them in English mustard diluted with mushroom catsup, salt, and cayenne, then roll them in bread-crumbs, and broil again over a slow fire until they acquire a fine color. Dress, pour lightly melted maitre d'hôtel butter (No. 581) over, or else a deviled sauce (No. 459) into the bottom of the dish.





(1875). CHICKENS' LEGS AS CUTLETS WITH OLIVES (Cuisses de Poulet en Côtelettes aux Olives).

Take the legs of six young chickens; bone them keeping on part of the drumsticks, but do not open; suppress well the sinews, season and stuff with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and fine herbs (No. 385); sew them up with coarse thread, leaving them in their original shape, range them in a flat saucepan one beside the other, salt over lightly, moisten just to cover with stock (No. 194a) and lay a piece of buttered paper on top, then cook the whole very slowly. Drain off the legs, and let cool between two boards or in the press (Fig. 71), pressing them down lightly; unsew and pare all around and on the ends, season and then dip in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs


View page [597]
Range them one beside the other in a flat sauce-pan with melted butter, return them to a hot fire and brown slightly on one side, then reverse them and brown them on the other. Drain and trim each drumstick with a small paper frill (No. 10); dress in a circle on a hot dish and fill the inside with an olive garnishing (No. 695), made with either verdal or Lucques olives, and serve with a sauce-boat of Colbert sauce (No. 451).





(1876). CHICKENS' LEGS IN PAPERS (Cuisses de Poulets en Papillotes).

Take out the bones from some chicken legs, leaving on half the drumstick, season, lay them in a sautoir containing bardes of fat pork and moistened with a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); when they are well cooked set them under the pressure of a light weight; pare all around, also the ends. Cut some sheets of strong paper into heart-shapes, oil them over and lay a very thin slice of fat fresh pork on top of one of the halves, cover this with a layer of reduced duxelle (No. 385) and a chicken leg above; cover with more of the duxelle and a very thin slice of cooked ham; enclose them in the papers, plaiting it all around, lay these on a silver dish, place them in a slack oven and when the papers have acquired a fine color and are considerably swollen, serve them immediately.





(1877). CHICKENS' LEGS, PURéE OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES-FRIED (Cuisses de Poulets Frites à la Purée de Topinambours).

Remove the first joint bones, season and fry the legs in butter with finely shredded carrots, onions and leeks, adding parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Moisten with stock (No. 194a) and white wine and let simmer slowly until thoroughly done, then turn them on a deep dish, covering them entirely with their stock and leave them to cool off in this; dip each piece in beaten eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color. Dress them in a circle over a purée of Jerusalem artichokes (No. 704) serving with a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413).





(1878). PILAU OF CHICKENS (Pilau de Poulets).

Cut up in four pieces each, two small chickens weighing no more than a pound and three-quarters apiece, obtaining two legs, two breasts, fry them for a few moments in butter, then moisten to their height with stock (No. 194a), adding a bunch of parsley garnished with aromatics, and seasoning with salt, pepper, and spices; cook the whole slowly, being most particular to remove the tenderest pieces as rapidly as they are done and transfer them into another saucepan; strain the stock, remove its fat, and pour the liquid over the meats with four gills of boiling stock added, and then throw in half a pint of Carolina rice for every quart of broth, and a little powdered saffron; cook the rice for ten minutes on a good fire then withdraw it to the corner of the stove to continue cooking for ten minutes longer; the rice should now be dry and tender; finish by taking it off the fire, and incorporating into it two ounces of fresh butter divided in small pats. Dress the stew in a deep dish or else a vegetable dish.





(1879). CHICKENS à LA CHAMPIONNE-ROASTED (Poulets Rôtis à la Championne).

Select two very fleshy chickens of two pounds each; singe, draw and clean them, picking out all the pin feathers; truss them as for an entrée, explained in the Elementary Methods (No. 178); cover the breasts with dry mirepoix (No. 419) and wrap up in a thin slice of fat pork; roast them on a spit before a slow but well-regulated fire, basting over frequently. Cut up quite fine one pound of cooked and peeled mushrooms; combine them with reduced béchamel sauce (No. 409) and finish with a little paprika and melted meat glaze (No. 402); with this preparation fill some hollow, round or semi-circular crusts (No. 52), smooth the surfaces and bestrew the tops with parmesan, then glaze them in a brisk oven or under a salamander (Fig. 123). As soon as the chickens are taken from the spit, unwrap and cut them up into five pieces each, suppressing the drumsticks; range them inside a cooked paste border (No. 10) fastened on at some distance from the edge of the dish as shown in Fig. 3; around this border lay the garnished crusts and cover the chickens lightly with a little tomato sauce (No. 549) sending a sauce-boat of the same to the table to be handed round the same time as the chicken.





(1880). CHICKENS à L'HôTELIèRE-ROASTED (Poulets Rôtis l'Hôtelière).

Peel twenty medium fresh mushroom heads, empty out the insides and stuff them as explained in No. 650. Roast two tender chickens on the spit before a good fire, basting them over with butter. Chop up the mushroom ends and put them in a saucepan with thyme and bay leaf, minced


View page [598]
shallots, two gills of white wine and two gills of gravy (No. 404); cover the pan and cook over a slow fire for ten minutes, then strain the liquid through a sieve and reduce it to the consistency of a half-glaze, adding four tablespoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402) and two of Madeira wine; boil up the sauce for two minutes and remove it on one side to finish with butter. Salt and untruss the chickens, cut each one into five pieces and dress them pyramidically on a dish; surround with the stuffed mushrooms and pour the sauce over the chickens.





(1881). CHICKEN IN THE SAUCEPAN-ROASTED (Poulet Rôti à la Casserole).

Brown a fine, small, whole chicken trussed for roasting (No. 179) in any kind of earthen saucepan with a little butter. After the chicken has attained a light golden color, moisten it with a spoonful of clear gravy (No. 404) and half a glassful of white wine; cover over and let the liquid fall to a half-glaze. When ready to serve dish up the chicken after untrussing it. A few small whole onions may be added as a garnishing after blanching them in boiling water and then frying them. Cover the whole with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413).





(1882). CHICKENS WITH OYSTER SAUCE (Poulets à la Sauce aux Huîtres).

Blanch four dozen medium-sized oysters in their own liquor. Bard two small chickens weighing a pound and a half each, after having them singed and trussed; run them one at the time on a slender spit, fasten well by tying the legs with twine and roast in front of a good fire basting over with melted butter; untruss, untie and cut each one either in four or five parts, pare the pieces, dress them pyramid form on a dish and cover with velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with the oyster liquor and then with fresh cream, buttering the sauce well when off of the fire, add to it the oysters, warm them, and pour the whole over the chickens besprinkling the top with chopped parsley.





(1883). CHICKENS, TOMATO CONDé SAUCE-STUFFED (Poulets Farcis à la Sauce Tomate Condé).

Roast some chickens, when cooked and cold, remove the breast meat, carefully leaving the other part of the chicken intact, cut these breasts into dice, also half as much mushrooms as there is chicken and half as many truffles as mushrooms, all cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares. Put this salpicon into a béchamel sauce (No.409), well reduced with the mushroom broth, then use it to replace the breasts in the chickens, rounding it well on the top; cover the whole with béchamel sauce (No. 406), besprinkle with bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan cheese, pour on some clarified butter and set the chickens in a slack oven to brown slightly. Dress them on a garnishing of noodles sautéd in butter (No. 2972), and well browned, and serve at the same time a sauce-boat of clear tomato condé sauce (No. 550).





(1884). CHICKENS à LA BOURGUIGNONNE-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Bourguignonne).

Clean and singe two small chickens, then cut them up into five parts; range these in a sautoir with melted butter and oil, some shallots and mushroom peelings; season and fry to a good color on both sides; finish to cook in a slow oven being careful to withdraw the fillets and breasts as quickly as they are done, take out all the pieces from the sautoir, unglaze its bottom with a gill of Madeira and a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), strain and reduce by incorporating into it slowly two gills of Burgundy wine, previously boiled in a red copper untinned pan with aromatics and mushroom peelings. When the sauce becomes succulent, pour it over the dressed chickens and surround them with a circle of round, flat croûtons of bread fried in butter and having one side covered with a layer of baking forcemeat (No. 81), glazed over with a brush and kept warm at the oven door.





(1885). CHICKENS à LA D'ANTIN-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la d'Antin).

Prepare two small chickens of two pounds each, by cutting each one into five parts and tossing them in a sautoir with clarified butter over a moderate fire; cook when needed four artichoke bottoms, drain and mince, then put them in with the chicken, also two chopped, blanched shallots, two ounces of finely shredded cooked ham and some minced truffles and mushrooms. Pour off the fat and replace it by velouté sauce (No. 415) and meat glaze (No. 402), adding chervil, chives and a little finely cut up tarragon leaves, white wine and Madeira, reduce to a proper degree, then dress the chickens and cover with a part of the sauce, trim the drumsticks with paper frills (No. 10) and serve the remainder of the sauce separately.






View page [599]


(1886). CHICKENS à LA DIVA-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Diva).

Choose good, medium-sized chickens of about two pounds each; draw, singe, and suppress well all the adhering feathers; detach the legs and wings leaving on the pinions and sufficient meat on the breast bones so that they are of the same size as the other four pieces. Put some butter to melt in a sautoir, and when a light brown, lay in the pieces of chicken, seasoning with salt, pepper, and powdered sweet peppers; toss without browning, and moisten with about a gill of veal blond (No. 423) to detach the glaze, and then finish cooking the chickens, moistening as quickly as the stock reduces, and when sufficiently done, dress. Add to the sauce some béchamel (No. 409) and tomato sauce (No. 549), a little tarragon vinegar, and some chopped, blanched shallot; just when ready to serve, thicken with egg-yolks, and butter; strain through a tammy, and pour it over the chickens, bestrewing the top with very green chopped parsley; garnish around with small flat chicken croquettes (No. 877), an inch and a quarter in diameter by half an inch in thickness, and between each of these lay a bordelaise crawfish (No. 1008), placing a channeled mushroom (No. 118) on top of every croquette.





(1887). CHICKEN à LA DODDS-SAUTéD (Poulet Sauté à la Dodds).

Cut up the chicken as explained for sautéing chicken (No. 1906), and put the pieces in a sautoir with four ounces of butter, cook without browning, and add four ounces of small squares of onions; place it on the fire for a few seconds to cook the onions without letting attain color; then add two teaspoonfuls of curry, and two tablespoonfuls of flour; season with salt and pepper, moisten with a pint and a half of stock (No. 194a), and let boil and simmer quite slowly; when done, drain, pare well the pieces, and place them in a saucepan. Strain the sauce and reduce it with some good cream; pour this over the chicken. At the first boil dress in the shape of a pyramid and cover with a part of the sauce, reserving the remainder for the sauce-boat. Boil some rice in water for ten minutes, drain and press it into a buttered mold furnished with a cover; place it in a slack oven for fifteen minutes, and just when ready to serve, unmold it on a dish, and send it to the table with the chicken.





(1888). CHICKENS à LA DUMAS-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Dumas).

Cut three chickens into five pieces each, having two legs, two wings and one breastbone piece; season with salt and pepper and toss them in butter with three small chopped shallots; remove the wings and breasts as rapidly as they are cooked and finish the legs, which take longer. Pare all the pieces and return them to a sautoir on the fire with a clear top part of the butter and three-quarters of a pound of minced mushrooms, pour over a few spoonfuls of thin béchamel (No. 409), roll them in the sauce without allowing it to boil. Detach the glaze from the other sautoir with a little Madeira, and add it to the sauce. Blanch three-quarters of a pound of rice, drain and place it in a saucepan and moisten it to three times its height, meaning if there be two inches high of rice, put in six inches high of unskimmed broth (No. 194a); boil, cover the saucepan and finish in the oven; it will take about twenty minutes. When the rice is sufficiently done, add to it three-quarters of a pound of very red beef tongue cut in small three-sixteenths of an inch squares, also three ounces of butter and the same quantity of grated parmesan cheese, a teaspoonful of powdered sweet peppers and a bit of cayenne pepper. Fill a plain buttered border mold (Fig. 139) with this prepared rice, keep it warm and when ready to serve invert it on a dish; dress the chickens pyramid-form in the center and cover the whole with the sauce thickened with egg-yolks, cream and butter, finishing with a pinch of prepared red pepper (No. 168). Garnish around with breaded and fried spinal marrow of veal, and send a sauce-boat of the same sauce to the table with the chicken.





(1889). CHICKENS à LA FINNOISE-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Finnoise).

Prepare and cook three chickens the same as for the chicken hunter's style (No. 1903); when three-quarters done, put in three ounces of chopped and blanched onion, and three ounces of small squares of ham, moisten with half a pint of stock (No. 194a) in order to detach the glaze and finish cooking the chickens; in case this moisture should be found insufficient, add a little more stock to it; season with sweet Spanish peppers, salt and paprika. Just when ready to serve pour in a pint and a half of velouté (No. 415) and half a pint of cream; reduce slowly until the chicken is thoroughly cooked, thicken with egg-yolks, cream, fresh butter and lemon juice. Dress the chickens inside a border of rice boiled in stock (No. 194a) and finished with a little fine butter; strain the sauce through a tammy, pour it over the chickens and trim the wings and legs with paper frills (No. 10), or serve the chickens simply with a Finnoise sauce (No. 465).






View page [600]


(1890). CHICKENS à LA FLORENTINE-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Florentine).

Cut up three one and a half pound chickens in four pieces each, season with salt, pepper, ground cloves and a teaspoonful of powdered sweet Spanish peppers; sauté them in half oil and half butter, and add six ounces of raw, unsmoked ham cut in quarter inch dice; turn over to color evenly and keep sautéing on the fire, or else set the pan in a slow oven and when done drain off the pieces; add to these two gills of Malaga wine, a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), three tablespoonfuls of meat-glaze (No. 402), and six tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549), also three dozen small onions that have been blanched and cooked in white broth (No. 194a), six dozen carrot balls each five-eighths of an inch in diameter, blanched for ten minutes then finished with white broth and a little sugar; three dozen turned and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118) cooked in a little water, butter, salt, lemon juice and six ounces of minced truffles. Boil up the whole, dress the chicken with the garnishing around; reduce the sauce to perfection, pouring half of it over the chicken, and trim the legs and wings with frills (No. 10); strain the remainder of the sauce and serve it separately.





(1891). CHICKENS à LA MADELEINE-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Madeleine).

Cut in quarters two small one and three-quarter pound chickens after cleaning them well; season with salt, pepper, paprika, and sweet Spanish peppers; put them into a liberally buttered sautoir, and when they commence to brown add half a pound of bacon cut up in quarter inch squares, having it previously blanched, four ounces of carrots and the same quantity of turnips cut in three-sixteenth inch squares and blanched separately, four ounces of onions in one-eighth inch squares also blanched, and a small garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123). Moisten with a little stock (No. 194a) and velouté (No. 415), cover the sautoir and finish cooking in a slack oven until cooked; when ready to serve thicken the sauce with egg-yolks, cream, butter and lemon juice; pour this over the chickens trim the handle bones and serve.





(1892). CHICKENS à LA MARCEL-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Marcel).

Prepare a sufficient number of chickens the same as for sautéing (No. 1906); season with salt and pepper; pour some oil into a sautoir and when very hot add the pieces of chicken and sauté them colorless; when nearly done put in one small chopped up shallot for every chicken, also a clove of garlic. Scoop out some potatoes olive-shaped, with a large oval vegetable spoon; cook them slowly in butter as well as some small artichoke bottoms after having them blanched, then finish cooking in butter; dress the chickens, garnish the artichoke bottoms with a consistent, mellow chestnut purée (No. 712) pushed through a pocket, and lay on top of this medium-sized channeled and glazed mushroom heads (No. 118); range these around the chicken and the potato olives between every one; trim the handles with frills (No. 10) and serve with a separate Colbert sauce (No. 451).





(1893). CHICKENS à LA MARENGO-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Marengo).

Take two chickens and prepare them exactly as for the sautéd chickens (No. 1906); heat some oil in a sautoir, range in the pieces one beside the other, and set it on a brisk fire tossing them until they are of a fine color, then add a clove of crushed and chopped garlic and some mignonette. Just when prepared to serve drain off three quarters of the fat and replace it by half a pint of white wine, detaching the glaze from the pan, then add a pound of mushroom buttons, and four ounces of thickly sliced truffles espagnole sauce (No. 414), a little meat glaze (No. 402), a little fine tomato purée (No. 730) and lemon-juice. Dress the chickens in a pyramid form, cover over with the garnishing and trim the drumsticks and pinions with paper frills (No. 10); decorate the edges of the dish with egg-yolks fried in a small frying pan with a little oil, some half-heart small bread croûtons and middling-sized trussed crawfish.





(1894). CHICKENS à LA MARYLAND-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Maryland).

For this dish choose small one pound chickens, split them open through the back, pare nicely (Fig. 353) and season, rub over with flour, then immerse in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs. Heat some clarified butter in a sautoir, fry the chickens in it very slowly to cook and attain a fine color, then finish cooking them in a slack oven for ten minutes. Dress the chickens on a béchamel sauce (No. 409), reduced with cream, and garnish the top with small corn fritters (No. 1349) and slices of broiled bacon, decorate the legs with paper frills (No. 10).






View page [601]


(1895). CHICKENS à LA MONTESQUIEU-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Montesquieu).

By observing the drawing for this entrée the elegance of this new style of dressing can easily be perceived. On an entrée dish one inch from the edge fasten a standing open work border made of cooked paste (Fig. 3), spreading it out slightly; brush this over with egg-yolks and dry it in the air. In the center of this border, fasten a wooden bottom to be covered with the same paste rolled out very thin. Singe three clean chickens, detach the legs, leaving on as much skin as possible, then lift off the large fillets with the pinions leaving the minion fillets adhere to the breasts, remove the skin from four of the large fillets, pare and lard with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52), range them in a sautoir lined with fat pork, salt and pour butter over. Detach the minion fillets from the breasts, trim four of them, cut five gashes on their top, into these place rounds of truffles, laying them in a buttered sautoir. Bone the legs, pare the meats evenly, salt and stuff them with a rather firm quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) into which mix some truffled Duxelle (No. 385); sew them up and range them in a sautoir, covering over with fat pork and basting with some stock (No. 194a); cook very slowly, then drain and let to get cold under the pressure of a light weight. With the remaining large fillets and the minion fillets prepare a little cream forcemeat (No. 75) and with it fill a small, plain pyramidical mold flat on top; poach this in a bain-marie for ten minutes; cut the stuffed legs in two and return them to the sautoir with their stock reduced to a half-glaze, heat up slowly while basting at the oven door; glaze the larded fillets in a hot oven and poach the streaked minion fillets. At the last moment unmold the croûton of forcemeat on the paste-covered dish; dress the legs around, one overlapping the other, pour over a little good reduced velouté sauce (No. 415), and then range the four large fillets intercalating them with the streaked fillets; on top of the pyramid insert a small skewer garnished with truffles (Fig. 11). Surround the border with a chain of round, peeled truffles cooked just when needed with glaze (No. 402) and Madeira and send with the entrée a sauce-boatful of velouté sauce reduced with the truffle broth.





[Illustration: A decorative plate of chickens arranged in a pyramid form and surrounded by truffles.]




(1896). CHICKENS à LA NANTAISE-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Nantaise).

Prepare three chickens the same as for hunter's style (No. 1903,) sauté them in butter without browning and remove each piece as fast as cooked; drain off the grease, detach the glaze with a little mushroom broth and Madeira wine, add some béchamel and cream (No. 411) and let simmer slowly, pouring in a little more cream if necessary; strain the sauce and keep it boiling hot. Make a croquette preparation with artichoke bottoms and cooked lean ham, the former cut in three-sixteenth inch squares and the latter in one-eighth pieces; mingle with some thick cold béchamel (No. 409) and form it into pear-shaped croquettes, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color in clean, white, and very hot frying fat. Fry some shrimps in butter, season with salt, pepper, fine herbs and lemon juice. Dress the chickens, pass the sauce through a tammy and pour part of it over the chickens; dress the shrimps in clusters and artichoke bottom croquettes between each; serve the rest of the sauce separately.





(1897). CHICKENS à LA PARMENTIER-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Parmentier).

Draw and singe three two pounds chickens, clean them well, suppressing all the pin feathers, cut them up in to five pieces, namely: two legs, two wings and a breastbone piece; sauté in butter and when three-quarters done add potatoes cut cylindrical shape an inch in diameter then sliced


View page [602]
three-eights of an inch thick, or else cut in five-eighths squares; cook them partially in a frying pan with clarified butter. Finish cooking the chicken and potatoes together in the oven, being careful to remove the breasts as soon as they are done. Dress the chickens on a dish with the potatoes around, detach the glaze from the sautoir with a little clear gravy (No. 404), Madeira and half-glaze sauce (No. 413), reduce the liquid for two minutes, pass through a tammy and pour it over the chickens.





(1898). CHICKENS à LA PORTUGAISE-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Portugaise).

Have three chickens prepared the same as for hunter's style (No. 1903), sauté them in half oil and half butter, season with salt and pepper, and when they are three-quarters done add three pounds of peeled tomatoes, halved through the center and the seeds and juice pressed out, a little finely cut up chives and three tablespoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402); boil and simmer until thoroughly cooked. Prepare eighteen small very sound halved tomatoes; press lightly to extract the juice and fill them with a dressing prepared as follows: Put four ounces of bread-crumbs into a bowl with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, the chopped livers of three chickens, salt, pepper and nutmeg; mix the whole well together and fill each half tomato with some of this; besprinkle with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, and lay a small piece of butter on top of every one, set them in a hot oven and when nicely browned take out and dress in a circle on a dish with the chickens in the center, dredge over with chopped parsley and decorate the leg and wing bones with paper frills (No. 10).





(1899). CHICKENS à LA SANFORD-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Sanford).

Draw and singe small one pound and a quarter to one pound and a half chickens, divide them into four pieces, suppressing the legs above the joint, also the pinion of the wings; season with salt and pepper, and rub over with flour; they may now be if so desired dipped in eggs and in bread-crumbs; sauté them slowly in clarified butter, and when well done drain and dress; pour a little good gravy (No. 404) in the dish and garnish around with hollow tartlets filled up with Chantilly sauce à la Sanford (No. 588).





(1900). CHICKENS à LA STANLEY (Poulets à la Stanley.)

Select three chickens each one weighing two pounds and a half; draw, singe, and detach the legs from the bodies, cut the carcasses on a level with the breasts and plunge these for a few moments in hot water to stiffen them, then dip them at once in cold water to refresh, lard them with lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52). With the meat taken from the legs and all the parings prepare a quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), finishing it with a dash of cayenne pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of béchamel (No. 409). Butter eighteen hollow tartlet molds with rounded bottoms, besprinkle the insides with finely chopped raw truffles, and fill them up with the prepared forcemeat; range these in a sautoir having boiling water around and reaching up to half their height, then poach the forcemeat slowly. Besides this, poach a layer of the same forcemeat on an entrée dish and keep it warm. Cut the breasts of the chickens into three pieces, two fillets and the upper part of the breast; suppress the pinions. Mince ten ounces of white onions, and fry them slowly with butter in a sautoir, and when a good color, add the chickens; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with three gills of chicken broth prepared with the carcasses and bones of these chickens; cover the sautoir and allow the liquid to fall to a glaze, then begin the operation again until the fillets and breasts are thoroughly done; remove and transfer to a flat saucepan; increase the chicken stock with a few spoonfuls of good velouté (No. 415), reduce this sauce without ceasing to stir, incorporating more of the broth into it, and lastly a gill of good raw cream; the sauce should now be succulent and of a medium consistency; thicken it with a liason of two egg-yolks, and cook this without boiling, then strain it through a tammy into another saucepan to work it vigorously while adding butter; finish with a dash of cayenne pepper, and the juice of a lemon. At the last moment dress the fillets in a circle on the bed of forcemeat laying on the dish; fill the center of this with cut up cooked mushrooms, and place the breast pieces on top; cover over with a part of the sauce, pouring the remainder into a sauce-boat to be served separately. Unmold the small forcemeat molds, dress them around the fillets and glaze over with a brush, then serve.






View page [603]


(1901). CHICKENS à LA TUNISIAN-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Tunisienne).

Divide two two-pound chickens into five pieces each, range the pieces in a sautoir with half melted butter and half oil, sauté on a moderate fire and then in the oven. When they are three-quarters cooked, season and finish, being careful to remove the fillets and other tender pieces as quickly as they get done; drain them all off, leaving only the fat in the sautoir, then pare the chickens piece by piece and range them at once in a low saucepan with a little clear gravy (No. 404) and meat glaze (No. 402); keep this in a warm place; fry two ounces of finely chopped onions in butter left from the chickens with the gizzards cooked and cut in small squares, the chopped up livers and four ounces of cold tenderloin of beef or lamb cut also into one-eighth inch squares, add salt, pepper and bread-crumbs and cool this off before breaking in a few raw egg-yolks. Form this preparation into five-eighths inch diameter balls and put them in with the chicken, also a quart of velouté (No. 415) and two gills of Madeira wine, let simmer and reduce the sauce, skimming off the fat. Dress the chickens in a pyramid form with the quenelles around, and cover over with a part of the sauce passed through a tammy, serving the remainder separately. Trim the pinion bones and drumsticks with paper frills (No. 10) and lay trussed crawfish all around.





(1902). CHICKENS POINT DU JOUR--SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés au Point du Jour).

Take two chickens and prepare them exactly as for bourguignonne (No. 1884), range them in a sautoir with melted butter. Fry colorless in butter, four ounces of chopped onions, dredge over with a tablespoonful of flour and make a small light roux; moisten this with red wine and stock (No. 194a) add a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and a few mushroom parings, despumate and reduce well the sauce. Sauté the chickens in the butter and when well browned add two dozen small glazed onions, as many cooked mushroom heads and as many olives as mushrooms; strain the above sauce, pour it over the chickens and at the first boil, take out the chickens and dress. Reduce the sauce, add to it a handful of small nonpareil capers and pour it over the chickens, garnish around with tiny round crusts an inch and a half in diameter, toasted and covered on one side with anchovy butter (No. 569).





(1903). CHICKENS, HUNTER'S STYLE-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés au Chasseur).

Pick out three good chickens of about two and a half pounds each, draw, singe, then clean well and extract all the small pin feathers, cut them each up into seven pieces, the two wings, two legs, two pieces of the back and one of the breast bone; season with salt and pepper; melt six ounces of butter in a sautoir until it becomes a fine golden color, then lay in the pieces of chicken and toss them well; when they acquire a fine light brown on one side, turn them over to brown likewise on the other, cover the sautoir and finish cooking on a very slow fire or in the oven. When the meats are well done, drain off the butter and detach the glaze with a little stock (No. 194a). Fry colorless in butter a large pinch of chopped shallot, moisten with half a bottleful of red or white Burgundy wine, reduce to half, then add a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and simmer the whole for a few moments, season well, and when the sauce is properly reduced, return the chickens to it, put it back on the fire to remove at the first boil and add three ounces of cooked, lean ham cut up in one-eighth of an inch squares, slice three onions across, having them two inches in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, remove the largest rings and roll them in flour, then fry a few at the time in plenty of fat; dress the chickens and use these rings to garnish the top, decorate the stumps of the legs and the pinions with paper frills (No. 10) and serve immediately.





(1904). CHICKENS, PARISIAN STYLE-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Parisienne).

Peel a few medium-sized truffles, lay them in a saucepan with a little salt and Madeira wine; cook them slightly; cook also as many mushrooms with a piece of butter and the juice of a lemon. Take two singed, drawn chickens, cut off the pinions and drumsticks, detach the thighs, and divide the breasts into three pieces, the two fillets and the upper breast part; cut the carcasses in two; crack the thigh bones in order to remove them, then place the thighs in a buttered flat saucepan; add the pinions, necks, and carcasses, season and cook on a moderate fire stirring them about at times; when partly done, add the fillets and upper breast parts, a bunch of parsley garnished with aromatic herbs, and a clove of garlic. After all the meats are well sized lift them out with a skimmer, and transfer to another saucepan, adding the truffles. Drain off the fat from the contents of the first saucepan, put in the truffle parings, and moisten with half a glassful of Madeira; boil up once or twice, then mix in double as much brown sauce


View page [604]
(No. 414) and the truffle stock; let cook on a brisk fire for ten minutes; skim off the fat, and strain this sauce over the chickens; heat without allowing the liquid to boil. Fasten a small fried bread pyramid in the center of a dish, around it dress first the carcasses and pinions, then the thighs and breasts, placing the upper breast pieces on top; surround the chickens with the truffles and mushrooms, place a few cocks'-combs here and there, and free the sauce once more of its fat; pour it over the chicken and serve.





(1905). CHICKENS, VIENNA STYLE-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés à la Viennoise).

Select chickens that weigh from a pound to a pound and a quarter; bleed them just when ready to use, and pluck them quickly, then cut them up into four pieces, performing all this operation most speedily so that the chickens have no time to become cold; season over with a mixture of salt, pepper, thyme, powdered bay leaf, and lemon juice, then dip in flour, afterward in beaten eggs, and bread-crumb them only once. Cook in a sautéing pan with clarified butter over a very hot fire, drain, sponge, and season; dress them dry with a bunch of fried parsley on the top.





(1906). SAUTéD CHICKENS WITH HALF-GLAZE (Poulets Sautés Demi-Glace).

Sautéd chickens are cooked various ways, either with a plain sauce or garnishing.


How to Sauté.--Cut up two chickens each of two pound weight, having them well cleaned and singed, into seven pieces, viz: two legs, the breastbone, whole breasts, and the backbone, split in two, suppressing the pinions and giblets. Break the second joint bone of the legs and remove it. Heat some butter and oil in a sautoir, range the pieces of chicken in this, and cook over a good but not too fierce fire, turning them over when of a nice color and well browned; remove the saucepan from off the fire and place it in the oven to finish cooking the chickens, taking out the pieces as fast as they are done, and when the legs are sufficiently cooked, drain the fat from the sautoir and return to it the pieces previously removed, then pour over a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), boil up for a minute, turning the pieces over so that they are thoroughly covered with the sauce on all sides. Dress these pieces of chicken on a dish, cover and keep hot. Pour a gill of Madeira or white wine, or else half of each, into the sautoir, reduce to half, add another half pint of half-glaze sauce and some mushroom and truffle parings; boil up for a minute while stirring incessantly with a spoon, strain the sauce through a fine strainer pour it over the chickens and serve.





[Illustration: A piece of chicken backbone.]




[Illustration: An illustration of a chicken breast.]




[Illustration: A piece of chicken split in two.]




(1907). CHICKENS WITH FINE HERBS, TOMATO GARNISHING-SAUTéD (Poulets Sautés aux Fines Herbes, Garnis de Tomates).

Fry chopped parsley and mushrooms and four blanched chopped shallots in butter; add two young two-pound chickens, both cut up into five pieces and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); season with salt and pepper; let all cook without adhering to the pan, skim off the fat and add a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), some clear gravy (No. 404) and the juice of a lemon. Put some butter and oil in a pan and when hot range one beside the other, some halved tomatoes having the seeds pressed out; season with salt and pepper, add a whole clove of garlic; fry these over a hot fire keeping them whole, and when their moisture has evaporated suppress the garlic and besprinkle with a little prepared red pepper (No. 168). Dress the chickens in a pyramid form, surround with the tomatoes and pour over the chicken gravy just as it is; dredge the surface with chopped parsley and serve with a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413) mixed with tomato sauce (No. 549).





(1908). SPRING CHICKENS AS AN ENTRéE, ROASTED-SMALL (Poulets Reine Rôtis en Entrée de Broche).

Singe three small chickens weighing three-quarters of a pound each; draw, and clean well; truss as for an entrée (No. 178), cover the breasts with a dry matignon with Madeira (No. 406) and tie on this thin slices of fat pork to keep it in place, tying the pork with three rows of string; run iron skewers lengthwise of the chickens and fasten them on the spit; three-quarters of an hour


View page [605]
before serving roast them in front of a bright fire basting over with butter and the fat from the dripping pan. When done, remove, unwrap and untruss. Invert on a dish a decorated and poached quenelle forcemeat (No. 80) border; lay in the center of the dish and on this a triangular center of fried bread covered with the same forcemeat, poach in the oven and range the chickens in a triangle on this border, leaning them up against the fried bread center. Dress between each one small clusters of round and peeled truffles rolled in meat glaze (No. 402), insert a garnished skewer in the bread center and the chickens. Pour some Madeira sauce (No. 492) reduced with truffle parings into the bottom of the dish after straining it through a tammy and serve more of it in a sauce-boat.





(1909). CHICKEN à L'AQUITAINE-BRAISED (Poulet Braisé à l'Aquitaine).

Draw and singe a fine corn-fed chicken weighing two and a half to three pounds; break the breastbone and fill the inside with a good dressing composed of beef marrow and raw ham combined with a handful of bread-crumbs, one egg-yolk, salt and nutmeg; sew up the stomach skin at the vent and truss with the legs inside; cover with slices of fat pork and then lay it in a narrow saucepan garnished with a bunch of parsley containing two cloves, some ham trimmings and an onion; moisten to half the height of the chicken with broth and allow the liquid to boil for a few moments, then set the saucepan on a slower fire to have it cook from half to three-quarters of an hour, basting it over frequently and letting it acquire a fine color. Strain off the stock, remove its fat and reduce it with espagnole sauce (No. 414) to the consistency of a half-glaze sauce. Infuse a piece of cinnamon in a gill of Madeira wine for fifteen minutes, strain it through a napkin and add it to the sauce. Place in a saucepan some round and well-pared slices of duck's liver, some cocks'-combs and kidneys, truffles and mushrooms; pour two-thirds of the above sauce over these, then untruss the chicken and dress it with the garnishing distributed around and the remainder of the sauce served in a separate sauce-boat.





(1910). CHICKENS à LA LéONIA-BOILED (Poulets Bouillis à la Léonia).

Have very tender two-pound chickens, prepare and truss them as for an entrée and range them in a saucepan with stock (No. 194a) to cook slowly; when done cut each chicken into five pieces; two legs, two wings, and one of the breast bones. Fry lightly in butter one shallot or half a medium onion, add four ounces of dried mushrooms, softened in water and chopped up finely, also a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, moisten with two gills of white wine and a pint of velouté sauce (No. 415); skim the top properly for fifteen to twenty minutes, then take out the parsley and pour in a pint of tomato sauce (No. 549) and a quarter of a pound of lean ham cut in three-sixteenths inch squares, let the sauce reduce until quite thick, add the pieces of chicken and when thoroughly warm, dress with the sauce, bestrewing the surface with chopped parsley.





(1911). CHICKENS à LA STUYVESANT--POêLé (Poulets Poêlés à la Stuyvesant).

Have two good chickens weighing three pounds each; truss them for entrée (No. 178) and cook them as explained under the heading to poêler (No. 12); when done properly, drain, untruss and cut them up into five or six pieces, dress them in a pyramid form on a layer of forcemeat three-quarters of an inch thick, poached on the same dish intended for the table, and surround with a circle of channeled mushrooms (No. 118), new carrots cut pear-shaped and blanched, then cooked in stock (No. 194a) with a little sugar; throw some very small cooked green peas over the whole, also a printanière sauce (No. 546) and send to the table with some of the same sauce served separately.





(1912). CHICKENS, ENGLISH STYLE-BOILED (Poulets Bouillis à l'Anglaise).

Prepare and truss some young two-pound chickens as for an entrée (No. 178), boil them in stock (No. 194a) and drain when done; dress and cover with a well buttered velouté sauce (No. 415), adding to it chopped parsley and lemon juice.





(1913). CHICKEN WITH NOODLES, MACARONI, RAVIOLES, OR MIRMIDONS-BRAISED (Poulet Braisé Soit aux Nouilles, Macaroni, Ravioles, ou Mirmidons).

Cook a chicken the same as with rice (No. 1914), roll out thin, some noodle paste bands (No. 142) two inches wide, cut it into fine shreds, plunge them into boiling, salted water and let cook for eight to ten minutes while covered; remove from the fire to drain on a sieve. Return these


View page [606]
noodles when dry to the saucepan and add two or three spoonfuls of good béchamel (No. 409), fresh butter, grated parmesan, a bit of nutmeg and salt and pepper, then dress on a hot dish; lay the chicken on top either whole or neatly cut up, pour over its liquid reduced to a half-glaze and thickened with a little tomato sauce (No. 549). This chicken can be served exactly the same only substituting macaroni (No. 2960), ravioles (No. 2976), or mirmidons (No. 689).





(1914). CHICKEN WITH RICE-BRAISED (Poulet Braisé au riz).

Draw a chicken weighing three pounds, break the breastbone and fill the inside with a good dressing composed of beef marrow and raw ham, a handful of bread-crumbs, one egg-yolk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Sew up the opening on top and truss with the legs inside; bard nicely, and lay it in a saucepan proportionate to its size, with the giblets, a garnished bunch of parsley, (No. 123) two cloves, and some ham parings. Moisten to about its height with stock (No. 194a) from the stock pot retaining all the fat and let boil up briskly for five to six minutes; remove the saucepan on one side of the range to finish boiling the liquid slowly for half to three-quarters of an hour. Place half a pound of well-washed and lightly blanched rice into another saucepan, wet it with two-thirds of the chicken broth after straining it through a fine sieve; in case there be not sufficient add a little broth; cook eighteen to twenty minutes on a hot fire; it should be softened and sufficiently dried; remove and finish by stirring in with a fork, a piece of butter, also a dash of nutmeg. Dress the rice on a dish, lay the chicken on top after draining and untrussing it, then serve. A small handful of grated parmesan cheese may be added to the rice if desired. Serve separately the remaining third of the stock reduced to a half-glaze.





(1915). CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON--BRAISED (Poulet Braisé à l'Estragon).

Choose a good three-pound, very white chicken; singe and draw it well; clean and free it from pin feathers; slip between the skin and breast meat a six ounce piece of butter mingling it with a heavy pinch of tarragon leaves; truss for an entrée (No. 178), and cover with bards of fat pork; place it in a saucepan, also the neck, gizzard, and a few veal parings; moisten just sufficiently to cover the chicken having three-quarters of unskimmed broth (No. 194a), and one-quarter of white wine. Boil up this liquid, then remove the saucepan to a more moderate fire to allow the chicken to cook for forty-five to sixty minutes; when properly done, strain the liquid, free it of fat, and put this latter in with the chicken to keep it warm. Throw a few tarragon leaves into a little boiling water; take the saucepan from the fire at the first boil, and drain these leaves on a sieve. Clarify the chicken stock, reduce, and afterward add to it a piece of chicken glaze (No. 398), and the juice of one lemon; untruss the chicken, dress and decorate the breast with the blanched tarragon leaves; pour a part of the gravy around, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat.





(1916). CHICKENS WITH NEW VEGETABLES--SMALL--BRAISED (Petits Poulets Braisés aux Légumes Nouveaux).

Procure two small tender chickens each one to weigh a pound and a half; singe and draw, truss for an entrée (No. 178), then lay them in a saucepan with melted butter and fry over a slow fire for ten to twelve minutes, turning them around and not letting them brown; moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a); season and add a garnishing composed of small new blanched carrots and uncooked fresh green peas. Cover the saucepan and finish cooking the vegetables together with the chickens in a slack oven, occasionally adding a little hot stock (No. 194a). As soon as they are nicely done, drain, untruss and cut each one into four pieces; dress them in a pyramid form in the center of a long dish. Strain the vegetables, thicken them with butter and add a pinch of sugar; range them around the pyramid of chickens, and on both ends of the dish lay a cluster of mushrooms and one of small glazed onions.





(1917). DUCK à LA BRITANNIA--STUFFED (Canard Farci à la Britannia).

Chop up a little green sage also one shallot, put them into a vessel and season with salt and pepper, add three hard-boiled egg-yolks, two dozen chestnuts and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; work the whole well together and with it fill the duck; truss and roast for three-quarters of an hour to one hour, then dress on a croûton of fried bread, pour over a poulette sauce (No. 527), and serve more in another sauce-boat.






View page [607]


rend="bold">(1918). DUCK à LA MATIGNON (Canard à la Matignon).

Select a fine young duck and truss it after singeing and drawing. Cut up some carrots, bacon and onions into three-sixteenth inch squares; have also sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Put the bacon into a sautoir with two ounces of butter, fry, put in the onions without coloring them, then add the carrots, herbs and seasoning; moisten with Madeira wine and let fall to a glaze. When cold wrap the duck with this matignon in strong sheets of buttered paper, and roast either on the spit or in the oven from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Unwrap and add the vegetables to half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and as much broth (No. 194a); boil and despumate for half an hour reducing to the consistency of a light sauce; strain this through a tammy (No. 159) and pour a part of it over the dressed duck, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat.





(1919). DUCK à LA SIEBRECHT (Canard à la Siebrecht).

Have a duck prepared and cooked the same as for roasting (No. 1921), dress and serve at the same time a sauce prepared as follows: Peel and cook some sour apples, and when done strain off the liquid part collecting the pulp in a vessel; mix into this a quarter as much grated fresh horse-radish and as much unsweetened well drained whipped cream; pour this sauce into a sauce-boat and serve it to accompany the duck.





(1920). DUCK, AMERICAN STYLE-STUFFED (Canard Farci à l'Américaine).

Singe, draw, and clean well a young duck, fill the insides with an American bread stuffing (No. 61); truss for roasting (No. 179) and roast it either on the spit or in the oven, three-quarters of an hour should be allowed. Dress it on a hot dish and pour a little gravy (No. 404) around, serving more in a separate sauce-boat.





(1921). ROAST DUCK (Canard Rôti).

Singe and draw a nice fat duck, chop up the liver with the same quantity of fresh fat pork, season and mix in a small finely chopped onion, some chopped parsley, a handful of bread-crumbs passed through a sieve and one egg-yolk; with this dressing stuff the duck's stomach; truss for roasting and cook either on the spit or in the oven for thirty to forty-five minutes, according to its size; baste over several times with butter, salt, and then take it from the spit; untruss and dress it on a dish garnishing around with slices of lemon. Send at the same time a sauce-boat of good gravy taken from the dripping pan, adding a little good stock (No. 194a) to it. This duck may be served plain without dressing if desired.





(1922). DUCK WITH CèPES (Canard aux Cèpes).

Put a good clean, trussed duck into a saucepan with melted fat pork and two minced onions, fry, season and moisten with two to three gills of gravy (No. 404), then cook smothered, turning it over. When three-quarters cooked, add two to three dozen small fresh and peeled cèpes free of stalks; finish cooking together with the duck, and when done, drain off the latter to untruss and dress on a dish with the cèpes grouped around. Strain the gravy stock, thicken it with a little tomato sauce (No. 549) and pour it over the duck and garnishing, then serve.





(1923). DUCK WITH CHERRIES (Canard aux Cerises).

Prepare a duck for an entrée (No. 178) after cleaning and singeing it; lay it in a saucepan lined with slices of fat pork and moisten to half its height with a mirepoix white wine stock (No. 419) bring the liquid to a boil and finish cooking in a slow oven. Suppress the stones and stalks from one pound of sour cherries, set them into an untinned copper pan with a little water, lemon peel, cinnamon and sugar, and let boil for a few moments, in case there should be no fresh cherries at hand take candied cherries or dried black ones; these should be soaked for an hour in tepid water, drained and put into a pan with a little fresh water, lemon juice and its peel, also cinnamon. Boil the cherries, then keep it at the same degree of heat, but discontinue the boiling for half an hour; the liquid should now be entirely absorbed. After the duck is ready, remove it from the saucepan and untruss, strain its stock, free it of fat and let reduce with some good brown sauce (No. 414), and after it attains a sufficient sucenience and is well-reduced, run it through a tammy over the cherries. Dress the duck in the center of a dish, pour half the gravy over, lay the cherries around and serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauce-boat.






View page [608]


(1924). DUCKS WITH OLIVES-BRAISED (Canards Braisés aux Olives).

Dress two ducks for entrées (No. 178) and lay them in a saucepan lined with bardes of fat pork; moisten to half their height with a mirepoix white wine stock (No. 419) and let boil, skim and simmer slowly for three-quarters to one hour. Stone about one pound of verdal olives, blanch, drain and add them to a brown sauce (No. 414) stirred in the mirepoix stock from the ducks after it has been strained and skimmed. Dress the ducks, cover lightly with sauce and garnish around with the olives.





(1925). DUCKS WITH SAUERKRAUT (Canards à la Choucroute).

Dress two nice ducks; place them in a saucepan lined with bards of fat pork, some carrots and onions and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); moisten with stock (No. 194a), boil; skim and cook in a moderate oven for an hour to an hour a half. Put two pounds of well washed sauerkraut in a saucepan, add two onions, one containing two cloves, half a pound of sliced carrots, half a pound of blanched breast of bacon and half a pound of raw sausage (with or without garlic according to taste). Moisten with half broth and half fat taken from the stock-pot, boil and cook slowly for two hours, then drain and dish it around the duck with the sausage and bacon cut in slices dressed intercalated. Stir a poivrade sauce (No. 522) into the duck stock, pour a third of it over the ducks, serving the other two-thirds separately.





(1926). DUCKS WITH TURNIPS (Canards aux Navets).

Truss a good, clean singed duck, lay it in a saucepan with melted fat pork or else lard, and fry very slowly until it acquires a fine color, then season and fry for a few moments longer, draining it off afterward. Pour into the same fat a tablespoonful of flour, cook slowly together for a few moments, moistening gradually with a pint of stock (No. 194a); stir the sauce while it keeps boiling for fifteen minutes on the side of the range. Skim off the fat, strain, and add this strained sauce to the duck with a garnishing of good, sound turnips cut in clove of garlic-shapes or else in balls, and browned in a pan with butter, salt, and a little sugar; finish cooking the duck and turnips on a very slow fire, and when both are ready, lift out the bird, untruss, and dress it in the center of a dish, surrounding it with the turnips; strain the stock, skim and reduce, if there should be too much, and when correct, pour it over the duck, and serve.





(1927). DUCKS' GIBLETS HOUSEKEEPERS' STYLE (Abatis de Canards à la Ménagère).

After a duck has been drawn and singed, chop off the neck as far down as the back, and divide this neck into two or three pieces. Remove the gall from the liver, being careful not to break it, and cut the liver in two or three pieces according to its size. Clean the wings well. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan with the wings, the neck, and four ounces of lean salt pork blanched and cut in quarter inch squares; when these are nicely fried, add the liver, dredge in for every set of giblets a heaping tablesponful of flour; stir well and let the flour cook for one second, then moisten with stock (No. 194a) and white wine; season with salt and pepper, and add one dozen small onions, and as many carrots cut pear-shape; let simmer for one hour and a half, remove the fat from the surface and put in a pint of uncooked green peas, then boil together for half an hour longer. When well done and properly seasoned, dress the meats in the middle of a dish with the vegetables arranged around, pour the sauce over and serve.





(1928). DUCKS' PAUPIETTES WITH RISOT (Paupiettes de Canards au Risot).

Singe some young ducks; bone them entirely, removing all the meat and use this to make a well seasoned quenelle forcemeat into which mix finely cut up chives, truffles, and mushrooms, both chopped and three-sixteenth of an inch squares of cooked ham. With this forcemeat cover pieces of the duck's skin cut in four or six parts, and roll them up into paupiettes, covering each one with a slice of fat pork; lay these in buttered paupiette rings, and place them in a sautoir covered with bardes of fat pork, and moisten with some good stock (No. 194a); cover over with a buttered paper, and then a round baking dish which will fit into the saucepan. Cook in a moderate oven, and when done and glazed to a fine color, take from the rings and dress them in a circle; garnish the center with risot (No. 739), and place a channeled mushroom head (No. 118) on top of each paupiette; serve with a sauce prepared as follows: Fry some minced onions in oil, drain, place it in a saucepan with lemon juice, mignonette, and Spanish sauce (No. 414), also the skimmed duck stock reduced to a half-glaze, and then strained through a tammy; serve it in a sauce-boat at the same time as the paupiettes.






View page [609]


(1929). MONGREL DUCK-ROASTED AND STUFFED (Carnard Métis Farci et Rôti).

A mongrel duck is the mixed breed of the wild and the domestic duck; it is generally larger than the domestic, and is usually served stuffed with a dressing made of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, into which mingle chopped and blanched onions, chopped parsley, butter or chopped up marrow, salt pepper and nutmeg. Put the duck in a baking pan, cover with fat and roast in the oven, basting over at frequent intervals while cooking. A mongrel duck will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, and a goose from two and a half to three hours. Dress on a long dish; pour some clear gravy (No. 404) into the roasting pan, strain off the fat and reduce, pour a little of this over the bird and serve the remainder apart.





(1930). DUCKLING à L'ANDALOUSE (Caneton à l'Andalouse).

Procure a young duck; singe, draw and clean it well, then truss it as for an entrée (No. 178); fry it very slowly with chopped up leaf lard and when it assumes a fine color, remove it from the saucepan, drain off the fat and cover the bottom with slices of ham, cut up carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and the duck; moisten with a little white wine and let this fall quickly to a glaze, then remoisten with a little stock (No. 194a), and let fall to a glaze twice more. After the duck is half cooked pour in two gills of Malaga wine and finish cooking slowly for about three-quarters of an hour; transfer the duck to another saucepan and keep it hot. Strain the stock and reduce it with the same amount of espagnole sauce (No. 414), to the consistency of a succulent sauce, and add to it a garnishing of small mushroom buttons, stoned Spanish olives, and small ball-shaped chicken quenelles; dress the duck, garnishing with part of the sauce, and serve the remainder separately.





(1931). DUCKLINGS à LA BORDELAISE-SAUTéD (Canetons Sautés à la Bordelaise).

Cut up two ducklings into five pieces each, obtaining the two legs, the two wings and one piece from the breastbone; pare them nicely, leaving on the pinions, but suppressing the bone from the legs, sauté in half clarified butter and half oil with the addition of four ounces of bacon cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares, the well-chopped livers, two teaspoonfuls of chopped shallot, the same of parsley and a soupçon of garlic; moisten with white wine, add half a pound of finely chopped cèpes, four ounces of cooked ham cut in eighth of inch squares, espagnole sauce (No. 414), and some tomato purée (No. 730). Remove at the first boil, dress the duck, pour the sauce over, garnish the extremities with paper frills (No. 10), and serve immediately.





(1932). DUCKLING à LA BOURGUIGNONNE-FRIED (Caneton Frit à la Bourguignonne).

Divide a young tender duck into five pieces; two legs, two wings and a breast piece; pare nicely leaving the pinion bones on the wings and suppressing the leg bones; lay these pieces in a vessel to season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, chopped parsley, very little pulverized thyme and bay leaf and olive oil. Break up the carcass, fry it in butter, until well colored, adding mushroom parings, shallots, cloves, mignonette and nutmeg, then moisten with red wine and cook the whole slowly for half an hour, strain through a sieve and add this stock gradually to an espagnole sauce (No. 414), that is being reduced, and boil both together to the consistency of a light gravy. Roll the pieces of drained duck in flour, immerse them in eggs and fry in a very white frying fat over a moderate fire, allowing them to attain a fine golden brown while cooking, serve on a folded napkin with the sauce in a sauce-boat.





(1933). DUCKLINGS à LA GRAINVILLE-LARDED (Canetons Piqués à la Grainville).

Have two ducklings, draw, singe and lard them with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), having previously plunged them in boiling water to render the meat firm. Line a saucepan with some slices of ham, place the ducklings on top and set around carrots, onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf and thyme. Moisten to half their height with stock (No. 194a) and finish cooking, basting over frequently and glazing them in such a way that they attain a nice color; strain the stock free of its fat and reduce it to the consistency of a light syrup, mix in some blanched chopped up shallots, then remove from the fire and squeeze in the juice of two oranges. Dress and garnish around with slices of apple besprinkled with sugar and cooked in the oven; serve the sauce in a sauce boat separately.






View page [610]


(1934). DUCKLING à LA LYONNAISE (Caneton à la Lyonnaise).

Bone the breast of a large duckling, singed and well cleaned. Fill up the empty space with a liver baking forcemeat (No. 64), mixed with a few spoonfuls of lean cooked ham cut in dice-shapes, and bread-crumbs, sew the breast skin, truss the duck, wrap it up in larding pork and let braise in a narrow saucepan slightly moistened with some stock (No. 194a), and a little white wine. Drain the duck, untie and untruss, then dress it on a dish and surround with clusters of small glazed onions alternated with clusters of whole chestnuts, first cooked, then fallen to a glaze with a little gravy (No. 404). Strain the stock, remove its fat and reduce it to a half-glaze, thicken it with a little brown sauce (No. 414), and serve it separately.





(1935). DUCKLINGS' FILLETS à LA MACéDOINE OR GREEN PEAS (Filets de Canetons à la Macédoine ou aux petits pois).

Singe, drain, and clean two young ducklings trussed for entrée (No. 178); lay them in a saucepan lined with bardes of fat pork, moisten to half their height with good mirepoix wine stock (No. 419), let boil, then skim or simmer over a slow fire or in the oven until done, basting over at frequent intervals, and glazing to a fine color; it will take from three-quarters of an hour to one hour to cook them. When the ducks are thoroughly done, remove the fillets, strain, skim, and reduce the stock with espagnole sauce (No. 414), and when it becomes succulent and properly reduced, add it to the fillets with a piece of fine butter, rolling all the while to mix well. Dress the fillets in a circle, filling the inside with a macédoine of vegetables (No. 680), or small fresh peas with bacon prepared as follows: Have half a pound of bacon cut in half inch dice, unsalt by parboiling, drain and fry in butter with some small onions; moisten with brown sauce (No. 414), and some of the duck stock, let simmer until the onions and bacon are cooked, then throw in three pints of peas cooked French style (No. 2743). Mix all together and pour it into the center of the fillets, or else serve with a garnishing of cucumbers and Villeroi (No. 2732).





(1936). DUCKLINGS' FILLETS à LA PéRIGUEUX (Filets de Canetons à la Périgueux).

This entrée is to be dressed on a wooden foundation covered with cooked or noodle paste (No. 142). Have a small pyramidal mold, smooth and well rounded, and poach in it a loaf of chicken or veal forcemeat mingled with an equal quantity of liver baking forcemeat (No. 64); keep this mold in water until needed. Cook six ducklings in a good mirepoix stock (No. 419), having only very little liquid, and when done drain them out to untruss; detach the two fillets from each breast retaining both skin and wing bones, then pare. Quickly unmold the small forcemeat loaf on the center of the paste-covered foundation; mask it over with velouté (No. 415), reduced with the duck stock, and dress the fillets in a detruncated circle around, that is the six fillets on the right side are to incline one way, while the six on the left the other. On the summit of the support, in the hollow formed by the points of the fillets, dress a tasteful cluster of small, round truffles peeled and cooked when required with Madeira sauce, and glazed over with a brush. Lightly cover over the fillets and the bottom of the dish with more of the same sauce, and send a sauce-boatful of it at the same time as the fillets.





[Illustration: A decorative plate of duck fillets arranged in a pyramid form.]




(1937). DUCKLING à LA ROUENNAISE (Caneton à la Rouennaise).

Chop up half a pound of onions, blanch, then fry in butter; chop up also half a pound of chicken livers, and half a pound of leaf lard, each one separately; mingle all together, and when very hot thicken with six egg-yolks; add four ounces of bread-crumbs to this preparation, some chopped parsley, and finely cut up chives. Remove the breastbone from a duck and fill the empty


View page [611]
space with the above; truss for roasting and wrap it up in buttered paper, and roast for about half an hour. Serve it on a little clear gravy (No. 404), and have a sauce-boatful of the following sauce: Cut up two ounces of onions in one-eighth of an inch squares; cook them in salted water, drain and return them to a saucepan to moisten with red wine; when this has fallen to a glaze dilute it with espagnole sauce (No. 414).





(1938). DUCKLING WITH GREEN MAYONNAISE AND FINE HERBS--BROILED AND ROASTED--(Caneton Grillê et Rôti à la Mayonnaise Verte aux Fines Herbes).

Broiled.--Split a singed, clean young duckling through the back, open it entirely and flatten well, trim neatly cutting off the legs at the first joint, salt and cover with oil; put it in a hinged double broiler, close and broil over a moderate even fire for about eighteen minutes; when done and of a fine color, dress on a hot dish, serve separately a sauce-boat of green mayonnaise fine herb sauce (No. 612).


Roasted.--After singing and drawing the duckling, truss it for roasting (No. 179) and cook either on the spit or in the oven for twenty-five to thirty-five minutes; baste frequently, salt only when cooked, then untruss and dress on a very hot dish, pour some clear gravy (No. 404), over and garnish around with water-cress seasoned with salt and vinegar.





(1939). DUCKLING, PEASANT STYLE (Caneton à la Paysanne).

Blanch and braise a small curled cabbage after cutting it in quarters and taking out the core, blanch separately some trimmed carrots and turnips, and celery root cut like cloves of garlic. Fry six ounces of half inch pieces of bacon in a saucepan, remove it with the skimmer leaving the fat in the sauce-pan, and in this fry very slowly a clean duckling trussed-as for an entrée (No. 178); when of a fine color moisten it with a little white wine and let this fall quickly to a glaze, then remoisten with a very little stock (No. 194a), and bring it twice to a glaze. After the duckling is partly cooked, put in the bacon and vegetables, moisten with broth to half the height finish cooking the whole very slowly on the fire or else in the oven. At the last moment untruss the duck and dress it on a dish, surrounding it with the garnishings and the quartered cabbage; lengthen the stock with a little more gravy, strain and thicken it with either some sauce or kneaded butter (No. 579); boil for two minutes, strain and pour it over the duck.





(1940). SALMIS OF DUCKLING (Salmis de Caneton).

To Roast.--Select a young and very tender duck, prepare and truss it for roasting the same as explained in No. 179; it should be roasted on the spit or in the oven for fifteen to twenty-five minutes according to its size and the heat of the fire. A domestic duck ought to be served quite rare, and should be killed without bleeding. Dish it after untrussing and pour over a little of its gravy, garnish around with water-cress and serve the remainder of the gravy in a sauce-boat.


For the Salmis.--Cut the roasted duck up in two or three slices from each breast. Chop up the legs and carcasses and fry them in butter with an ounce of onions and as much shallot, both minced very finely; add the parings, pepper and mignonette, then moisten with red wine and some brown sauce (No. 414); reduce this to half, strain it through a tammy and pour it over the pieces of dressed duck; surround with heart-shaped bread croûtons and serve very hot.





(1941). DUCKLING, WITH BIGARADE SAUCE (Caneton à la Sauce Bigarade).

Make a small hash with some fresh pork, the duck's liver and two cooked chicken livers; mix into it a handful of white bread-crumbs, one egg-yolk and two or three spoonfuls of mushrooms, onions and parsley all minced very fine. With this preparation fill a duck's stomach; sew up the apertures, truss and roast it on the spit or in the oven, basting liberally with butter. Drain and dress it on a dish with some clear gravy (No. 404), and serve a bigarade sauce (No. 435) separately.





(1942). DUCKLING, WITH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (Caneton aux Topinambours).

Cook the duckling the same as for Andalouse (No. 1930), and when done dress and surround it with a garnishing of glazed and peeled Jerusalem artichokes; serve with a separate sauce-boat of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) worked with butter and finished with parsley and lemon juice.






View page [612]


(1943). DUCKLINGS, WITH ORANGES (Canetons aux Oranges).

Prepare two ducklings as for an entrée (No. 178). Line a saucepan or a braziere (Fig. 134) with carrots, onions, fragments of fat pork, slices of ham and raw veal, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, mushroom peelings and melted fat pork. Lay the ducklings over, the breasts upper-most and pour on a pint of stock (No. 194a); cover and reduce the liquid slowly and completely, then remoisten with half stock and half champagne or white wine, and let simmer until thoroughly cooked. Strain the stock, remove its fat, despumate and reduce it to a half-glaze; take out a fourth part of it and to the remainder, add the blanched and shredded peels of two oranges; let cook again for fifteen minutes. Peel two oranges, free of all pith, remove the pulp between each section and take out the seeds, then add this to the sauce; dish the ducklings, cover with a quarter of the sauce kept aside and surround with two medium oranges cut in four. Serve the sauce separately at the same time as the ducks, or else substitute an orange sauce (No. 511).





(1944). BUSTARD EN DAUBE--WILD GOOSE (Outarde en Daube--Oie Sauvage).

As a bustard is nearly always tough, it is necessary to hang it up for several days. Pick, singe, draw and clean it well; cut off the pinions, neck and drumsticks; detach the legs from the body as well as the breasts, and lard all these meats with large shreds of raw ham, then season; lay them in a vessel with a pint of vinegar and as much water, let macerate for twenty-four hours. Cover the bottom and sides of a large stone stock pot with thin slices of fat pork, range in the bottom a few small carrots and turnips in the shape of three-fourth inch balls, a few onions, a bunch of aromatic herbs and two boned and blanched calf's feet, dredge over whole peppers and cloves then put in the carcass, legs and breast pieces after draining them from their marinade. Moisten to half the height of the meats with white wine, cover over with bards of fat pork, and reduce the liquid for a few moments. Close the vessel hermetically with a piece of paper and a common plate half filled with water and let it cook very slowly in the oven for six to seven hours, according to its tenderness; remove carefully and dress on a large dish with the calf's feet and vegetables; skim the fat from the strained liquid and strain it again over the meat.





(1945). GOOSE à LA CHIPOLATA (Oie à la Chipolata).

A whole goose can either be served as a relevé or as a roast; the slices, legs and giblets as an entrée. A goose is usually served at unceremonious dinners. Draw and singe a goose, clean it well and truss it as for an entrée (No. 178); fill the inside with a sausage forcemeat (No. 68) into which mix a handful of bread-crumbs, several eggs and cooked fine herbs (No. 385); season highly. Line a braziere with bards of fat pork, cut up carrots and onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with chervil; lay the goose on top of these, surround it with bits of veal and moisten with Madeira wine, broth and white wine to half its height; boil, skim and simmer for three to four hours until properly cooked. Strain the stock, remove all its fat and reduce to half, then pour it into some brown sauce (No. 414) in the act of being reduced, adding more of the Madeira. Dress the goose and garnish around with clusters of small braised and glazed onions, blanched carrots cooked in stock (No. 194a), braised chestnuts fallen to a glaze, and mushroom heads cooked, turned and channeled (No. 118); cover over with a part of the sauce and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat.





(1946). GOOSE à LA ROYER (Oie à la Royer).

Prepare the same as for the chipolata (No. 1945) and after the stock has been strained, skimmed and reduced to a half-glaze, add to it the juice of one orange, some currant jelly and finely shredded cooked orange peel, pour a part of this sauce over the goose, and garnish around with sour apple tartlets (No. 2189); serve the rest of the sauce separately.





(1947). GOOSE à LA THIéBLIN-ROASTED (Oie Rôtie à la Thiéblin).

Pick out a fine goose, draw, singe and clean it thoroughly, then truss it for roasting. Boil fifty peeled chestnuts in some stock (No. 194a) with a few shredded celery stalks, adding only sufficient of the moisture just to allow them to cook, and when done, drain. Put two pounds of pork forcemeat in a sautoir over a brisk fire, cook, stir occasionally and season with salt, mignonette, nutmeg, chopped parsley, a handful of bread-crumbs and two whole eggs, add the chestnuts and use this dressing to fill the insides of the goose, wrap it up in several sheets of buttered paper and roast it for two and a half hours, basting it over frequently. Twenty-five minutes before serving, unwrap


View page [613]
the goose and return it to the spit in order to have it acquire a fine color, dress and serve with Zuchette sauce (No. 564). Garnish around the goose with croustades filled with gooseberries preparing them in the following way: Have two pounds of gooseberries, cut off the tops and stalks, blanch for two minutes, then drain. Cook in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of sugar to small crack, add the gooseberries, toss them gently, then cool off, stir in as much whipped cream as there are gooseberries, having it unsweetened and well drained; serve a sauce-boat of gravy (No. 404) at the same time.





(1948). GOOSE, GERMAN STYLE-ROASTED (Oie Rôtie à l'Allemande).

Prepare and cook the goose the same as for stuffed with chestnuts (No. 1950), but instead of filling with chestnut forcemeat, substitute ten apples, peeled, quartered, cored and cooked in a vessel with six ounces of dried currants and four ounces of seeded raisins, half a pound of bread-crumbs, cinnamon and two whole eggs. Mince well a red cabbage after carefully removing all the hard parts and lay it in a saucepan with stock (No. 194a), from which the fat has not been removed, and salt, cook slowly until ready to serve, then put in a tablespoonful of vinegar, garnish around the goose with this cabbage and outside of it set a string of small broiled sausages (No. 754).





(1949). GEESE GIBLETS WITH TURNIPS (Abatis d'Oie aux Navets).

Put half a pound of unsalted bacon into a saucepan with a little butter and let fry for a few moments, then add the giblets prepared as for No. 1927 and the seasoning, also two dozen small onions and four dozen turnips cut the size and shape of large Spanish olives, having previously fried them in butter with a pinch of sugar. Drain them and add them to the stew with a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and pour in some espagnole sauce (No. 414) and stock (No. 194a), boil, skim and simmer for half an hour; season to taste with salt and pepper. When the giblets are cooked, remove the parsley and serve the meat in the center of a dish with the vegetables around and the sauce poured over the whole.





(1950). GOOSE STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS AND WITH SAUSAGES AND CHESTNUTS-ROASTED (0ie Rôtie Farcie aux Marrons et aux Saucisses et Marrons).

Select a fine goose; singe and reserve the fat and giblets, then wipe out the insides and fill it, also the breast with a dressing prepared as follows: Take one pound of chopped veal, and two pounds of chopped fat pork, only mixing them together afterward, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and allspice; add two gills of stock (No. 149a) or water, and pound the whole together; then mix in sixty chestnuts that have been roasted in the oven and freed of skins. Truss the goose and lay it in a roasting-pan with its own fat and half a pint of hot water, sprinkle fine salt over it, and cover with a buttered paper; then place it in the oven to cook for three hours, being careful to baste it occasionally; it should be well done; salt over, untruss, and dress on a dish; skim the fat from the surface of its liquid, pour in a little gravy (No. 404), boil, and then strain through a sieve. Throw a little of this over the goose and serve the remainder separately.



[Illustration: A roasting-pan with goose lay in it.]




With Sausages and Chestnuts.--Prepare and cook the goose exactly the same only omit putting the chestnuts in the dressing; but braise them and use them for garnishing both sides of the goose and arrange small broiled Chipolata sausages (No. 754) on the ends.





(1951). GOSLING à LA SOYER (Oison à la Soyer).

Draw, singe, and clean well a young goose; truss, filling the inside with a dressing made of a pound of finely chopped beef suet, a pound of soaked bread-crumbs, having all the water extracted,


View page [614]
half a pound of butter, some onions fried in butter with the goose liver cut in small squares, sage, thyme, basil, marjoram, parsley, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roast the goose either on the spit or in the oven for an hour and a half to two hours, basting it frequently. When done, dish it up on top of a purée of apples seasoned with sugar and nutmeg. Peel some apples cut in four; range on a generously buttered dish, sprinkled over with sugar, and cook for ten minutes in the hot oven, and lay around the goose. Serve separate a sauce prepared with the glaze from the dripping pan detaching it with a little gravy (No. 404), strain and skim; mix in gradually some espagnole sauce (No. 414) in which currant jelly has been dissolved; strain the whole through a sieve, and serve it in a sauce-boat to accompany the goose.





(1952). ROAST GOSLING OR MONGREL GOOSE (Oison ou Oie Métisse Rôtis).

A gosling roasted on the spit makes an excellent dish. It can also be cooked in a slow oven laid in a narrow earthenware (Fig. 377) or iron pan with plenty of fat; generally both these birds are stuffed before being roasted. A mongrel goose may be filled with partly broiled chestnuts lightly fried in butter or fat pork; it can also be stuffed with small apples after removing the core with a tube five-eighths of an inch in diameter, or both chestnuts and apples can be replaced by a fresh pork hash into which fine herbs and bread crumbs have been mixed, or even by small sausages roasted partially in fat pork or grease. If the goose be large it will take two to three hours to have it tender; when a gosling is cooked on the spit it must first be trussed, then wrapped in buttered paper and roasted for one hour, being careful to baste frequently and to remove the paper after it has been in three-quarters of an hour to let it acquire a fine brown color, and it is then served simply with good reduced gravy (No. 404). A kind of thick pancake can be served at the same time made with bread-crumbs soaked, pressed, then pounded in a bowl and diluted with whole eggs and milk, seasoning with salt, pepper, pulverized thyme and marjoram and chopped blanched onions. Lay this preparation on a well-greased tin sheet and cook in the oven basting it bountifully with goose grease, after cutting it into inch and a half squares.





(1953). GOSLING SAUTéD WITH TOMATOES, ROBERT SAUCE (Oison Sauté aux Tomates à la Sauce Robert).

Have a good gosling, singe, draw and cut it up into seven pieces-the two legs and five pieces taken from the breast; season with salt and pepper and fry slowly in lard. Drain off the fat and detach the glaze from the pan with a little clear gravy (No. 404). Cut twelve peeled tomatoes across in two, press out the juice and seeds and fry them in a frying pan with very hot oil; season with salt, pepper and a crushed and chopped clove of garlic. When the pieces are cooked, dish up and dress the fried tomatoes over; sprinkle very green chopped parsley on top, pour the gravy around and serve separately some Robert sauce (No. 533).





(1954). GOSLING STEWED WITH TURNIPS (Ragoût d'Oison aux Navets).

Cut up a small tender and well cleaned gosling into medium-sized pieces, suppressing the pinions, drumsticks and neck; cut also half a pound of lean bacon into half inch squares; fry them for a few moments in butter, and remove with the skimmer, leaving the fat in the saucepan; lay the pieces of goose into this fat, fry over a hot fire while stirring, season and add one onion and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. When the meats are browned, drain off the fat and dredge the goose with flour, moisten to its height with hot stock (No. 194a), and boil up this liquid while stirring, letting it remain in this state for ten minutes; the sauce should now be slightly thickened. Cover well the saucepan with its lid and continue to cook moderately. Take raw turnips and cut them into balls three-quarters of an inch in diameter, place them in a pan with the strained fat from the goose, season with salt and a pinch of sugar, and color them briskly; when half cooked lift out the pieces of goose to trim neatly, strain its stock and return it to a clean saucepan with a gill of Marsala wine, the pieces of goose, the bacon and the turnips; boil together for ten minutes and finish cooking in a slack oven. The gosling and turnips should both be found done at the same time; dress all in a deep dish with very little sauce.






View page [615]


(1955). GUINEA FOWL (Pintade).

The guinea fowl is a pretty bird the same size as an ordinary fowl, having slate-colored feathers covered with small round white spots; it is raised in the poultry yard; when young its meat is most agreeable to eat. The fecundity of a guinea fowl is most remarkable.



[Illustration: An illustration of a guinea fowl.]




(1956). GUINEA FOWLS LARDED AND DECORATED WITH THEIR OWN FEATHERS-ROASTED (Pintades Piquées Rôties Garnies de Leur Plumage).

Guinea fowls are frequently disguised with their own or with pheasants' feathers, for their resemblance is almost similar. Select young guinea fowls, dress and truss them as if intended for roasting (No. 179); plunge the breasts in boiling water to stiffen the skin and lard them with very fine shreds of larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52); wrap them up in several sheets of buttered paper, then roast them either on the spit or in the oven; when they are three-quarters done, unwrap and brown a fine color; salt and dress on croûtons of bread fried in butter, and decorate with either their own feathers; serve a separate sauce-boat of clear gravy (No. 404).





(1957). GUINEA FOWLS FILLETS à LA GAILLARDET (Filets de Pintades à la Gaillardet).

Raise the fillets from half a dozen young guinea fowls, remove the skin and epidermis, and sauté them over a brisk fire, but without coloring. Set them under a weight and when partly cold pare them into half hearts, cover with some well-reduced Villeroi sauce (No. 560) and range them as quickly as they are ready on a tin sheet to cool thoroughly. Detach them from this sheet, roll them in bread-crumbs, dip in eggs and again in bread-crumbs, smoothing the breading with the blade of a knife. Fry them in clarified butter to a fine golden brown, drain on a napkin and trim the pointed ends with favor frills (No. 10), then dress in a circle and garnish the center of the dish with tomatoes fried in oil with finely chopped shallots and mushrooms, also some chopped parsley; serve with a separate Colbert sauce (No. 451).





(1958). GUINEA FOWLS WITH SAUERKRAUT (Pintades à la Choucroute).

Cook two pounds of good sauerkraut perfectly plain with a piece of smoked bacon and half a pound of sausages. Bard two young guinea fowls and cook them smothered in a saucepan; when nearly done, add them to the sauerkraut, which is not thoroughly cooked yet, and finish both together. Drain off the fowls and meat and reduce the liquid remaining in the sauerkraut, thickening it with a piece of kneaded butter (No. 579); finish off the fire with a piece of plain butter. Dress on a dish, form a hollow in the center and lay in it the cut up fowls glazing them over simply with a brush; serve a clear gravy (No. 404) separately.





(1959). PIGEONS à LA CHARTREUSE (Pigeons à la Chartreuse).

Blanch half a cabbage and cut it up into two parts, remove the core, then braise these with half a pound of bacon. Place some melted fat pork in a saucepan and fry in it three pigeons; when colored range them over the cabbage and garnish the spaces between the pigeons with turnips and carrots each blanched separately, and small onions browned in a pan; season and then withdraw the saucepan, pushing it into a moderate oven. A quarter of an hour later moisten with a gill of hot stock (No. 194a). Finish cooking the pigeons and vegetables very slowly; untruss the birds and


View page [616]
dress them over the braised cabbage laid in the center of the dish; between each pigeon place a cluster of of onions, turnips and carrots, separating each one of these by a thick slice of the bacon standing upright. Increase the quantity of pigeon stock with a little clear gravy (No. 404), suppress all the fat and thicken lightly with a little brown sauce (No. 414); strain this, pour part over the pigeons, cut the sausages in slices and dress them around the pigeons one overlapping the other. Serve the rest of the sauce separately.





(1960). PIGEONS à LA LOMBARDY-POêLED (Pigeonneaux à la Lombarde-Poêlés).

Prepare eight pigeons; singe, draw and truss for an entrée (No. 178); wrap them up in a dry matignon (No. 406), with slices of fat pork and then in strong buttered paper. Butter and garnish the bottom of a saucepan with sliced carrots and onions, thyme, bay leaf and sprigs of parsley, add the pigeons, half a pint of white wine and as much stock (No. 194a), boil until there is no more moisture, then remoisten to half the height of the birds and let simmer gently until they are cooked, which will take from thirty to forty-five minutes, drain and strain the stock, skim off all its fat and reduce. Dish the pigeons in a circle over artichoke bottoms fried in butter and fill up the middle with a garnishing of escaloped sweetbreads also fried in butter, and on top lay small squares of cooked lean ham half an inch in diameter and fried in butter, and over these cooked channeled mushroom (No. 118) heads. Cover these garnishings with velouté sauce (No. 415) stirred into the pigeon stock and serve also a sauce-boatful of the same sauce.





(1961). PIGEONS à LA VALENCIENNE (Pigeons à la Valencienne

Cut six ounces of bacon into small dice; fry them for a few moments in butter, then lift out, leaving the fat in the saucepan, and into this put three fine, clean and trussed pigeons, also a few small onions and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123). Fry and moisten to half their height with broth, let fall to a glaze and remoisten once more to half the height of the pigeons and finish cooking over a moderate fire. When they are almost done strain the stock and return it to the sauce-pan without the onions and parsley and let boil up; now add four gills of good rice for each quart of liquid; put back the bacon and a coffeespoonful of prepared red pepper (No. 168) and finish all together. Dish up the rice, untruss the pigeons and dress them on top, surround the whole with small chipolata sausages and the small onions.





[Illustration: Three pigeons arranged in a pyramid form in a decorative plate and surrounded with small chipolata sausages and small onions. ]




(1962). PIGEONS GARNISHED WITH MONTGLAS CASES-STUFFED (Pigeons Farcis Garnis de Caisses Montglas).

Fasten a wooden foundation on a dish, it to be one inch high and not too wide; cover with cooked paste (No. 131) or noodle paste (No. 142) decorated on the top with a piping in relief and having a wooden or tin triangle or conical-shaped support in the center, also covered with paste and bored on top so that a skewer can be inserted. Bone the breasts of three young, clean pigeons by splitting them lightly through the back, but leaving the legs and thighs attached to the bodies; season the inside meats and fill the breasts with baking liver forcemeat (No. 81) combined with a third as much raw forcemeat (No. 89), a few spoonfuls of cooked lean ham and as much cooked truffles, all to be well chopped; sew up the back, truss as for an entrée (No. 178) with the legs thrust inside the body, bard over and wrap each one in a small buttered cloth, then cook in a good poêler stock. As soon as the pigeons are done, drain, unwrap and retighten the cloth more firmly; put them back into their stock to leave cool, then drain again and when unwrapped, wipe them carefully with a cloth. Now detach the breasts from the rump of each pigeon to cut into lengthwise slices, return them to their original


View page [617]
position and then place the birds in a sautoir with a part of their stock reduced to a half-glaze warm them in the open oven basting frequently. Remove the pigeons to a small baking sheet, smooth the cut parts nicely and cover the breasts with a not too thick Mornay sauce (No. 504), so the form of the pigeons remain intact; place them for a moment in the hot oven to have the sauce adhere, then dress them at once in a triangle almost standing upright against the support; on top of this insert a small skewer garnished with truffles; surround the bottom of the dish with a chain of small china cases filled with montglas (No. 747), then covered with a layer of forcemeat and poached in a bain-marie; when serving this entrée send also a sauce-boatful of the reduced pigeon stock thickened with a little sauce.





(1963). PIGEONS, HUNTRESS STYLE-BREASTS (Filets de Pigeons, Chasseresse).

Raise the fillets from six pigeons leaving the minion fillet adhere, pare and suppress the skin, then salt and lay them in a sautoir with butter and lemon juice; place this on a hot fire and as soon as they are firm to the touch, remove to place under a weight; then pare again and cover one side only with a salpicon of sweetbreads, truffles and mushrooms mingled with well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407). Cover this salpicon with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) diluted with a little cream. Dust the tops with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan cheese, mask with butter and lay the breasts in a sautoir, having the bottom covered with thin slices of fat pork, set it in the hot oven and when the breasts are of a fine color and very warm, dress them in a circle, pouring a Diana sauce (No. 400) in the middle.





(1964). PIGEONS, MONARCH STYLE-SMOTHERED (Pigeons au Monarque-à l'étuvée).

Choose six good squabs; draw, singe, and clean them well; dip the breasts into boiling water to harden the skin and facilitate the larding process, then lard them with small lardons of fat pork (No. 4, Fig. 54), and braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419); glaze and let them get a fine color; when done, drain and dress. Garnish around with stuffed olives, truffles, mushrooms, quenelles, cocks'-combs, and kidneys, or the combs may be imitated by pieces of veal palate removed with a cutter into comb-shapes. Cover with a velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 398), and thickened with raw egg-yolks and fresh butter, sending some of the sauce to the table separately. Surround these garnishings with trussed crawfish, and between these lay slices of foies-gras an inch and a quarter in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, breaded à la Villeroi and fried.





(1965). POTTED PIGEONS (Ragoût de Pigeons au Four).

After cleaning and singeing six pigeons, cut them up into four pieces; lay three ounces of butter in a saucepan with six ounces of bacon cut in quarter inch squares; when this begins to brown put in four ounces of onions cut in slices. Range the pigeons in an earthen pot or deep dish with a bed of the bacon on the bottom, the pigeons on top, and more bacon over; add salt, pepper, and sprigs of thyme; moisten with thin brown sauce (No. 414), placing here and there a few pieces of pilot cracker dipped in water. Boil and then let simmer or push in the oven until thoroughly done, and serve in the same crock they have been cooked in.





(1966). PIGEONS, PRINTANIèRE STYLE (Pigeons à la Printanière).

Prepare a garnishing composed of carrots and turnip balls formed with a half inch vegetable-spoon, and some large green peas; have the carrots and turnips blanched separately, and the peas simply cooked in an untinned copper pan. Break the breastbones of three tender pigeons, remove these bones and fill the breasts with a dressing made of fresh fat pork, chicken livers cooked, chopped, and pounded with a little panada and two egg-yolks. Truss the pigeons with the legs thrust inside for entrée (No. 178), and lay them in a saucepan lined with fat pork, roots, and minced onions; cook them almost dry, only having a very little stock (No. 194a), reduce it to a glaze, and repeat this several times, when finished; drain them off, untruss and cut each one in two lengthwise, then reconstruct them into their former shape. Dress them on a dish leaning them against a triangle-shaped fried bread support fastened on the center of the dish, and between each pigeon set a different garnishing namely; the carrots, turnips, and peas. Increase the quantity of stock with a little stock (No. 194a), strain, skim, and reduce it, thicken it with brown sauce (No. 414), and serve it in a sauce-boat.






View page [618]


(1967). STEWED PIGEONS (Pigeons en Compote).

Bleed six young pigeons in order to kill them, reserving the blood in a bowl; mix with it a spoonful of vinegar to prevent its coagulating. After the pigeons are drawn, singed and well cleansed, truss them with the legs thrust inside. Glaze four dozen small, raw onions, cut eight ounces of bacon into half inch pieces and fry them for a few moments in a saucepan with butter; remove them with a skimmer leaving in the fat, and to this add the pigeons, fry them on all their sides, and season when they have acquired a fine color, then dredge over a spoonful of flour and cook together for two minutes while tossing them about, now moisten the pigeons gradually to their height with white wine and hot stock (No. 194a), stir the liquid till it boils rapidly, then leave it in this state for five minutes, afterward removing the saucepan to a more moderate fire; now add a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123) and some mushroom peelings. When the pigeons are three-quarters done, put in both the glazed onions and the bacon and finish cooking together. At the last moment, drain out the pigeons, untruss and range them on a dish surrounded by the garnishings. Strain the sauce, free it of fat and thicken it with the blood mixed with two raw egg-yolks, cook this thickening without boiling it and finish the sauce with a piece of butter, then strain it over the pigeons.





(1968). PIGEONS WITH CRAWFISH (Pigeons aux écrevisses).

Cook some small crawfish with salt, white wine and parsley; break off the tails and suppress their shells in order to be able to pare them, chop up the fragments and add them to a little bread forcemeat finished with fine herbs and egg-yolks. Break the breastbones of two or three pigeons so as to remove the bone, fill up the empty space with the prepared forcemeat, truss and braise them with very little moisture, then strain off the stock, free it of fat and add to it a few spoonfuls of the crawfish stock, thickening with raw egg-yolks diluted with cream, then put in the crawfish tails, untruss the pigeons, dish them and pour the sauce over.





(1969). PIGEONS WITH GREEN PEAS (Pigeons aux Petits Pois).

Truss six pigeons as for an entrée (No. 178), returning the livers to their original place. Melt some chopped fat pork in a saucepan, add to it a quarter of a pound of small five-eighths inch squares of bacon and fry for a few moments, then remove them with a skimmer. Put the pigeons into this saucepan with five or six small onions for each bird, brown slightly and slowly, then add one and a half quarts of green peas, a bunch of parsley and the bacon. Two minutes later moisten with two gills of stock (No. 194a), boil for five minutes and withdraw the saucepan to a slower fire, push into the oven, and finish cooking the peas and pigeons, then drain out the birds, untruss and dress them on a dish; thicken the peas with kneaded butter (No. 579), and place them around the pigeons.





[Illustration: A plate of pigeons garnished with forcemeat.]




(1970). PIGEONS WITH OLIVES-BREASTS (Filets de Pigeons aux Olives).

This entrée is dressed in the hollow of a cooked paste border (No. 10) cut into points and open-worked with a pastry cutter. The band intended for making the border should be cut out on a floured table as soon as it has been rolled; fasten it on a dish a quarter of an inch from the inside edge, spreading it slightly; egg it over with a brush and dry for a few hours. After this paste is dried, lay inside of it a wooden foundation covered with more of the same paste rolled out thin. Besides this, prepare a little raw chicken forcemeat (No. 89) mixed with an equal quantity of baked liver forcemeat (No. 80) pounded and passed through a tammy. Poach this forcemeat in a pyramidical mold


View page [619]
rounded and smooth an inch and a half high, placed in a bain-marie; unmold this pyramid in the center of the dish, for it is intended to uphold the entrée. Select a few dozen of the finest and largest Spanish olives procurable; stone and blanch them to stuff with foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78). Singe six young but large pigeons quite fleshy, fill the breasts with a spoonful of grated fat pork and fresh chopped truffle peelings; truss and cover with fat pork, then cook in some good stock; as soon as done remove to untruss; detach the breasts from the back, remove the two fillets from both breasts, suppress the skin, pare and take off the minions. Lay the six fillets from the left side in a small sautoir, mask them with a little espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with the pigeon stock and Madeira; cover and keep them hot. Pare the other six fillets, mask them also on the inside with a layer of baking forcemeat thickened with a little raw forcemeat, smooth well, and range these fillets in another small sautoir having a little half-glaze on the bottom to heat the forcemeat; warm it while glazing over with a brush. At the last moment unmold the pyramid, lay the fillets around alternating them, and all turned in the same direction standing almost upright. Dress a part of the olives in the center space formed by the circle on top of the pyramid, and range the others around the open-worked border. Cover the fillets lightly with the sauce, also the garnishings and serve more separately.





(1971). PULLET à LA ARCO VALLEY (Poularde à la Arco Valley).

Prepare, cook, and dress the pullet the same as for à la Seymour(No. 1981); serve at the same time but separately a velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom broth and thickened when ready to serve with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter, adding chopped parsley, small mushroom buttons and small chicken quenelles. Garnish around with cassolettes (No. 860) of oysters poached, drained and mingled with allemande sauce (No. 407).





(1972). PULLET à LA DAME BLANCHE (Poularde à la Dame Blanche).

Truss a pullet to be served as an entrée (No. 178), rub over the breast with half a lemon, and cover with slices of fat pork. Poêler the pullet in some good stock, as explained in No. 12, adding to it a piece of bacon previously blanched. When the pullet is cooked, strain the stock, free it of fat, and keep the chicken hot in this. Place on the fire to reduce four gills of velouté sauce (No. 415), incorporating a part of the reduced stock slowly into it with a coffeespoonful of prepared red pepper (No. 168); when succulent, strain. Dress the pullet on a thin layer of forcemeat (No. 79) poached on a dish, surround it with small clusters of potatoes cut in balls with a large vegetable scoop, and simply cooked first in salted water, then steamed. Cover the pullet with a part of the sauce, serving the remainder separately. Pullets or capons may be handed round to the guests after being cut up, and they can also be carved on the dining-room sideboard, and served on hot plates with some of the garnishing, and a little of the sauce.





(1973). PULLET à LA DEMIDOFF (Poularde à la Demidoff).

Draw a pullet through the side; crack the breastbone so as to be able to draw it out and fill the empty space with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), containing cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped truffles, sew up the skin underneath, also the side opening, and truss the pullet to be served as an entrée (No. 178). Cover over with fat pork, and cook it for an hour and a half in some good mirepoix stock (No. 419). When done to perfection, drain, untruss, and dress it on a dish having a bottom of croustade rice fastened to it and surround with a garnishing dressed in groups composed of small truffle balls cut out with a three-eighths vegetablespoon, small balls from the red part of carrots, and small balls of white turnips, also clusters of fresh green peas cooked English style in an untinned pan. Cover the pullet with a little velouté sauce (No. 415) strained and reduced with the pullet stock, and finished with two spoonfuls of good raw cream, serving a sauce-boat of velouté sauce (No. 415) separately.





(1974). PULLET à LA LéONDISE (Poularde à la Léondise).

Roast the pullet the same as No. 1996 and range it on a layer of macaroni into which has been mixed crawfish or shrimp tails, mushrooms, and quenelles. Serve with a sauce-boat of financiere sauce (No. 464).






View page [620]


(1975). PULLET à LA LESTER WALLACK (Poularde à la Lester Wallack).

Break and remove the breastbone of a clean pullet, fill in the empty breast space with a dressing made of grated fat pork, chopped mushrooms, and bread steeped in milk and this liquid squeezed out; truss as for an entrée (No. 178), cover with bards of fat pork, and poêler it quite white (No. 12), then untie and dress on a rice croustade foundation fastened on a dish; surround it simply with turned and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118), cooked artichoke bottoms about two and a half inches in diameter, removing the center with a five-eighths of an inch cutter, then divide into eight pieces, and small chicken quenelles poached in salted water; all these garnishings to be arranged in separate groups. Cover the pullet with some good velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced and thickened with egg-yolks and cream, and finished at the last moment with a purée of foies-gras (No. 743), passed through a fine sieve; serve more of the sauce in a sauce-boat.





(1976). PULLET à LA MARTINIèRE (Poularde à la Martinière).

Poêler a pullet very white (No. 12); drain and cut it up into eight pieces; dress them simply on a force-meat ring poached on the dish; surround with a circle of medium-sized poached spoon quenelles (No. 155), and cover the chicken and quenelles with good velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with mushroom peelings, and finished with a little good cream. Serve the remainder of the sauce separately with very small and very white mushrooms added.





(1977). PULLET à LA MORNAY (Poularde à la Mornay).

Select a good clean pullet and truss it for entrée (No. 178); poêler it in a stock (No. 194a), keeping it very white, then drain, and when half cold detach the bread so as to be able to dress a garnishing in the empty spaces of the remaining carcass. Escalop these breast fillets and lay them in a sautoir with a garnishing composed of cocks'-combs and kidneys, mushrooms and foies-gras, and moisten this stew rather sparingly with reduced thick allemande sauce (No. 407). Range this in the cleaned out empty space, having them reassume their former shape, smooth them nicely and cover with a layer of Mornay sauce (No. 504), smooth this also and besprinkle over with a grated parmesan cheese, then glaze the surface under a salamander (Fig. 123) or in a hot oven. After finishing the pullet dress it on a long dish containing a layer of poached forcemeat, cover the breasts with a row of slices of truffles and surround the base with clusters of chicken croquettes.





(1978). PULLET à LA NANTUA (Poularde à la Nantua).

Split down the back of a singed and very clean pullet; bone the breast and legs, leaving on the wing bones; season the inside meats and fill the empty space with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) combined with crawfish butter (No. 573) and prepared red pepper (No. 168) also the crawfish tails cut lengthwise in two. Sew up the pullet, truss and have the breast well rounded, then cover over with slices of fat pork and lay it in a narrow saucepan, cover three-quarters of its height with skimmed stock (No. 194a), adding aromatic herbs and mushroom peelings; cook it in this alone for one hour; it should really only be poached; then drain off the pullet, untie and dress it on a thin layer of forcemeat poached on a dish; cover lightly with velouté sauce (No. 415) reduced with a part of the stock and finished with red butter (No. 580). Surround with small timbales of fat rice made in timbale molds (No. 6) letting it be quite white; serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauce-boat.





(1979). PULLET à LA PéRIGORD (Poularde à la Périgord).

After the pullet has been singed stuff the breast with pounded veal suet seasoned with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and a clove of garlic, adding to it some chopped up truffles. Insert thick slices of truffles between the fat and skin, then wrap the fowl in a matignon (No. 406) and roast it on the spit or oven; unwrap and reduce the matignon with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and Madeira; dress the pullet with some clear gravy (No. 404) and serve the sauce separately.





(1980). PULLET à LA PRINTANIèRE-GLAZED (Poularde Glacée à la Printanière).

Have a clean, singed pullet; break the breast bone and stuff the breast with grated fat pork mingled with truffle peelings, truss for entrée (No. 178). Scald the breast in boiling water to harden the meat, then dip these scalded parts at once into cold water, wipe dry and lard with fine lardons of larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52). Lay the pullet in a saucepan containing fragments of fat pork, roots and minced onions, salt over and steam for fifteen to twenty minutes, then moisten


View page [621]
with two or three gills of stock (No. 194a) and allow it to fall to a glaze. Remoisten to half its height with stock and reduce the liquid slowly to half, finish cooking the pullet in this manner, basting it over frequently; when done it should be glazed to a fine color; drain it off to untruss and dress on a dish, surrounding it on both sides with clusters of new cooked carrots and small glazed onions. Strain and skim the pullet stock, reduce it until it becomes succulent, then thicken with a little good brown sauce (No. 414), serving it in a sauce-boat.





(1981). PULLET à LA SEYMOUR (Poularde à la Seymour).

Soak a pound and a half of bread in milk, then press out all the liquid and add it to half a pound of very finely chopped beef suet taken from around the kidneys and a seasoning of shallots, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, cream and egg-yolks; use this to stuff the inside and the breast of a pullet, prepared for roasting (No. 179), tie it up and cover with fat pork then roast it before a good fire basting it over frequently, remove, dress and pour on some clear gravy (No. 404), then serve.





(1982). PULLET à LA VILLARS (Poularde à la Villars).

Truss a pullet as for an entrée (No. 178) with the legs inside; rub over the breasts with half a lemon, cover with bards of fat pork, tie well and poêler it in some good stock (No. 12) keeping it very white. Just when prepared to serve, drain out the pullet, untie and dress it on a trimmed rice croustade foundation fastened on a dish, and surround it with a white garnishing compsed of lamb's sweetbreads, cocks'-kidneys and mushroom heads, dressed in clusters and these alternated with fine slices of red beef tongue cut in points to resemble cocks'-combs. Cover the pullet and garnishings with a little Villars sauce (No. 559) and serve more of it separately.





(1983). PULLET à LA ZINGARA (Poularde à la Zingara).

Draw two pullets, singe and truss with the legs inside, then tie, stiffen the breast meats and lard them with lardons of tongue and fat pork (No. 3, Fig. 52). Line the bottom of a saucepan with bards of the same pork and slices of veal, round slices of carrots and onions, one whole onion containing a clove and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; lay the pullets on top, cover over with strong buttered paper and moisten with one quart of stock (No. 194a); boil, skim and cook slowly for an hour to an hour and a half, and thirty minutes before serving allow it to brown to a nice color. Pound four ounces of unsmoked red beef tongue with the same amount of butter, season with pepper and grated nutmeg and dissolve this in a quarter of a pint of meat glaze (No. 402), heat it up and add a little espagnole (No. 414); rub the whole through a tammy and lay this purée on the bottom of a dish with the pullets on top.





(1984). PULLET, ANCIENT STYLE (Poularde à l'Ancienne).

Draw and singe a pullet, trim and insert slices of truffle between the skin and flesh, truss as for an entrée (No. 178), and lard the legs with rosettes of truffles, bard it nicely and cook in stock (No. 194a) then drain and dress garnishing around with cauliflower and serving a separate well-buttered velouté sauce (No. 415) into which mingle some chopped up truffles.





(1985). PULLET, ENGLISH STYLE (Poularde à l'Anglaise).

After the pullet is cooked as for ancient style (No. 1984), dress it the same, only changing the garnishing to one of potatoes, carrots, turnips, Brussels sprouts and green peas, the whole cooked in salted water; serve a cream béchamel (No. 411) separately.





(1986). PULLET, EGYPTIAN STYLE-BROILED (Poularde Grillés à l'égyptienne).

First braise the pullet and when cold cut it up and place it in a vessel with salt, pepper, oil and lemon juice, drain, then immerse in bread-crumbs, saturate with oil and broil over a slow fire. When very hot and of a fine color dress on a layer of rice oriental style (No. 2978). Serve with a separate espagnole sauce (No. 414) into which has been added prepared red pepper (No. 168).





(1987). PULLET IN SURPRISE (Poularde en Surprise).

Dress a pullet leaving the neck skin very long; break the breast bone in order to remove it and fill the empty breast space with rather firm quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Truss the pullet with the legs thrust under the skin and wrap the breast around with thin slices of fat pork, braise (No. 12)


View page [622]
it the same time as a chicken and then let both get cold. Untruss the pullet, divide the breasts from the carcass, leaving on the legs and a part of the breast, so that it forms a long hollow case; lay it erect on a small baking sheet and fill the bottom of the hollow case with a layer of chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75); poach this for two minutes in a slack oven. Cut the two pullet fillets into large Julienne, also those taken from the cooked chicken; put them in a saucepan with the same quantity of cooked foies-gras and as many cooked truffles both cut up the same size as the chicken meat, mingling some good reduced velouté sauce (No. 415) with the whole; it should remain quite consistent. Dress this on the top of the cream forcemeat in the hollow case, smooth it well rounded on top, and cover with a thick layer of the same forcemeat; smooth this carefully to the shape of the the original breast in order to have the pullet served whole. Decorate both sides of the breast with graduated truffle crescents; butter the forcemeat lightly with a brush and poach in a very slack oven. After removing the pullet, dress it on a dish having its bottom covered with a layer of foundation rice (No. 160) to maintain it in position, and lay on the outer edge a fancy silver border (Fig. 6); keep the whole hot for ten minutes, then remove and dress on each side a cluster of very white mushrooms; cover them as well as the breast with a little suprême sauce (No. 547) prepared with the stock and serve with a sauce-boatful of the same.





[Illustration: A pullet placed on a decorative dish with white mushrooms around it.]




(1988). PULLET IVORY WITH DECORATED QUENELLES (Poularde à l'Ivoire aux Quenelles Décorées).

Break the breast bone of a cleaned and singed pullet, tie it up as for an entrée (No. 178) and insert a piece of butter into the breast; cover over with bards of fat pork and set it in a saucepan of its own dimensions; moisten to its height with stock (No. 194a), boil the liquid over a hot fire then remove the saucepan on a slower one, cover and finish cooking the pullet for forty-five to sixty minutes. As soon as done to perfection, strain the stock through a napkin into another vessel leaving the pullet to keep warm. Skim the fat from the stock and pour the top gently into another saucepan, then reduce it with some velouté sauce (No. 415) and cream; strain this through a tammy. Dress the pullet, pour the sauce over, and garnish around with chicken quenelles decorated with truffles (No. 154).





(1989). PULLET, MODERN STYLE (Poularde à la Moderne).

Peel two pounds of fresh truffles and chop up the peelings; pound them with one pound of panada, adding half as much raw foies-gras; continue to pound, putting in eight ounces of grated fat pork, a few eggs and seasoning, then rub the whole through a sieve. Fill the breasts of a pullet with a part of this dressing, using the remainder for the insides; braise (No. 12) with a very little moistening; dress when cooked, and garnish around with cocks'-combs, and the peeled truffles sautéd in butter, and cooked in Madeira. Reduce the braise stock with velouté sauce (No. 415), and just when ready to serve incorporate a few pats of fine butter; pour it over the pullet and garnishings, and serve some well-buttered chicken purée (No. 713) separately.





(1990). PULLET, PARISIAN STYLE-STUFFED (Poularde Farcie à la Parisienne).

This entrée is dressed on a dish decorated with an open-work border made of cooked paste (No. 10), having the empty space in the center covered with a wooden foundation masked over with noodle paste (No. 142), dried in the air. Draw a pullet through the side, break the breastbone to be able to draw it out, and stuff the breast with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), finished with a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and a foies-gras salpicon cut in three-eighths of an inch dice, and truffles


View page [623]
of the same size; sew the breast skin underneath, and truss the pullet as for entrée (No.178); cover with slices of fat pork and cook in a good stock (No. 194a), keeping it white, and when done properly, drain, untie, and untruss. Lay it on the foundation already placed on the dish; surround it with a garnishing of round truffles cooked at the last moment with Madeira and melted glaze (No. 402). Cover the pullet with some good velouté sauce (No. 415), reduced with its own stock and the Madeira and glaze in which the truffles have been cooked, and serve a sauce-boat of the sauce at the same time.





[Illustration: A pullet dressed on a decorative dish with an open-work border.]




(1991). PULLET TARTAR SAUCE-BROILED (Poularde Grillée à la Sauce Tartare).

Draw and truss a pullet as for an entrée (No. 178), then split it down the center of the back, flatten and bread-crumb it English style with egg-yolks and butter beaten together; broil on a slow fire, and serve on a very hot dish; pour a little good gravy (No. 404) under, and send to the table with a separate tartar sauce (No. 631).





(1992). TRUFFLED ROASTED PULLET (Poularde Rôtie Truffée).

A few days before this is needed draw the pullet through the side and wipe the inside well. Peel twelve to sixteen ounces of fine, fresh truffles, leaving them either whole or cut in two or four according to their size. Melt two ounces of grated fat pork in a saucepan, add to it the truffles and season with fine allspice; fry for two minutes, remove and use this to stuff the breast of the pullet. Sew up the openings and truss, then lay it aside in a cool place. When needed wrap it in buttered paper, run it on a spit (No. 118) or else lay it in a small cradle spit (No. 116) without boring any hole through it whatever, and roast it for one hour, basting frequently. Unwrap it ten minutes before serving to salt over and allow to attain a fine color; take it out, untie and send it to the table with a sauce-boat of good reduced gravy (No. 404) into which has been added the chopped up truffle peelings.





(1993). PULLET WITH CROUSTADES FINANCIèRE (Poularde aux Croustades Financière).

Draw a pullet, singe and free it well of all the pin feathers adhering to the flesh; truss as for an entrée (No. 178) and rub over with lemon juice; wrap it up in thin slices of fat pork, tying it on firmly. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with bards of fat pork, slices of veal, two slices of raw, smoked ham, a few cut up carrots, two onions, two cloves, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and season with salt and whole peppers; place it on the fire and let simmer for an hour or more and when done, strain the stock through a napkin, remove its fat and reduce it with two gills of espagnole (No. 414). Drain the pullet, untruss and lay it on a dish, garnishing around with some small timbales (No. 972) made in molds (No. 3, Fig. 137) and filled with financière salpicon (No. 667).





(1994). PULLET WITH MUSSELS OR OYSTERS (Poularde aux Moules ou aux Huîtres).

Truss and cook a pullet exactly as with the ravioles (No. 1995), wash some mussels in several waters and place them in a covered saucepan over a brisk fire to open; when this occurs remove from their shells, transfer them to another vessel. Fry colorless in butter a little parsley and chives, add two gills of either béchamel (No. 409) or velouté (No. 415), a little stock (No. 194a) and grated nutmeg; boil this sauce up once or twice, then put in either the mussels or else some prepared oysters; just when ready to serve, drain the pullet, untruss and dress. Thicken the sauce with a few raw egg-yolks and fine butter, heat it up without boiling and range the garnishings around the pullet, cover over with a part of the sauce and serve what remains separately.






View page [624]


(1995). PULLET WITH RAVIOLES (Poularde aux Ravioles).

Draw a fine pullet, singe and clean it well, truss it for an entrée, (No. 178), and cover over with slices of fat pork. Butter the bottom of a braziere (Fig. 134), lay over some sliced onions and carrots, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, a clove of garlic and two cloves. Moisten with stock (No. 194a) to three-quarters its height, then boil, skim and cook slowly for one hour and a half to two hours; drain off the stock, free it of fat and return this to the braziere to keep the pullet warm. Reduce the stock with velouté (No. 415) if for white, or espagnole (No. 414) if for brown. Dress the pullet on a layer of ravioles (No. 2976) mingled with some velouté or espagnole and parmesan cheese, and serve a separate sauce-boat of the sauce with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped parsley added.





(1996). PULLET GARNISHED WITH WATER-CRESS-ROASTED (Poularde Rôtie au Cresson).

Six to nine months old pullets are the most desirable ones especially when quite fat. Roasted poultry should be treated with extreme care, for the roast is the most essential part of a dinner and is partaken of by almost every one. Should the fowl not be barded, then it must be enveloped in a buttered paper and basted frequently while cooking, either with butter or else good poultry fat. Draw and singe a good pullet, truss it for roasting (No. 179) and place it on the spit or in the oven, although roasting on the spit is far the most preferable. When the pullet is nicely done dress and surround with water-cress, serving its own gravy strained and free of fat separately.





(1997). BLANQUETTE OF PULLET WITH MUSHROOMS (Blanquette de Poularde aux Champignons).

Begin by detaching the legs from a trussed and singed pullet, cut each of these in two, then lay them in a vessel containing water; divide the breast in two and cut each piece into three parts; plunge them also into the cold water with the cut up carcass; let soak for fifteen to twenty minutes then drain and lay them in a saucepan with an onion and a bunch of parsley, and cover plentifully with white chicken broth (No. 188); boil and skim this liquid for twelve minutes then take it off the fire. Prepare a white roux (No. 163) with flour and butter, dilute it with the strained and skimmed pullet broth when partially cold and stir this sauce well until it boils; let it despumate for a quarter of an hour on the side of the fire while removing the fat from the surface. Pare and wipe the pieces of pullet, return them to the saucepan with two dozen turned mushrooms (No. 118); strain the sauce over and finish cooking, finally dressing the pieces of pullet in a deep dish with the mushrooms. Reduce the sauce for a few minutes, thicken with two egg-yolks finishing it off the fire with a piece of butter worked in, also some lemon juice; strain and pour it over the pullet.





(1998). PULLETS à LA MONTMORENCY--BREASTS (Filets de Poularde à la Montmorency).

Fasten to a dish a plain or ring-shaped bottom covered with cooked paste (No. 131) or noodle paste (No. 142), having in its center a tin cup equally covered with ornamental pieces of paste, egg it all over and dry in the air. Pare the fillets of five small pullets, suppressing the superficial skin, remove the minion fillets and streak them with truffles, also suppress the pinion bones, trimming them into half hearts rounded on one end and pointed on the other. Place the minion fillets on the larger ones, both slightly bent; Range the fillets on the bottom of a sautoir with a layer of cold clarified butter, being careful to have them all lie in one direction, so that the pointed


[Illustration: A plate of fillets arranged in a ring form with a cup of truffles at the center of the dish.]





View page [625]
ends extend toward the center. With the cut up pullet carcasses, prepare a little chicken essence (No. 387) and when done and nicely seasoned, strain and skim off the fat and incorporate into it a few gills of good velouté (No. 415) in the act of being reduced. When this sauce is perfect and succulent, finish it with a few spoonfuls of good, raw cream and afterward a piece of fresh butter; keep it in a bain-marie till needed. Just when ready to serve, sprinkle the fillets over with salt and poach them lightly, drain and dress in a circle on the foundation prepared on the dish. Fill the center cup with a garnishing of peeled truffles cooked in Madeira; cover the fillets lightly with the sauce, serving the rest in a sauce-boat.





(1999). PULLET à LA MONTPENSIER-MINION FILLETS (Filets Mignons de Poularde à la Montpensier).

Streak twelve minion fillets with truffles, shape them into rings two inches in diameter and poach them with butter in a small sautoir. Cut twelve quarter inch thick slices from the middle part of freshly cooked red beef tongue and from each of these slices cut out a round piece the same size as the minion fillet rings; lay these tongue rounds on thin crusts of bread fried in butter and covered with a layer of consistent soubise (No. 723), then mask the tongue rounds with a layer of reduced thick Madeira sauce (No. 492), and on top set the minion fillet rings, one on each, filling in their hollow spaces with a large stuffed Spanish olive standing upright and covered with more of the same Madeira sauce. Dress the hot fillets in a circle and in the center place a garnishing of green asparagus tops (No. 2693).





(2000). PULLET BREASTS à LA VARSOVIAN (Filets de Poularde à la Varsovienne).

Prepare and cook the pullet fillets as for Montmorency (No. 1998), poach them in butter and dish in a circle intercalating with a croûton of bread fried in butter; fill the center with cèpes sauted with fine herbs and garnish around with small chicken croquettes (No. 877) made crescent-shaped and fried in hot and very white frying fat. Cover the fillets with béchamel (No. 409) into which has been mixed a little meat glaze (No. 402) and lemon juice; have a sauce-boat of the same sauce served at the same time as the fillets.





(2001). PULLETS' BREASTS à LA VISCONTI (Filets de Poularde à la Visconti).

Pare the fillets of three pullets each one weighing from three to four pounds; suppress the superficial skin covering the minions, also the pinion bones; beat them lightly, giving them the shape of a half heart on one end and pointed on the other; range these fillets on the bottom of a sautoir covered with a layer of clarified, and cold butter being careful to place them all in such a way that the sharp ends point toward the center. Just when ready to serve, salt them over and cook slowly on both sides while turning, then drain and dress in a circle on a ring of poached forcemeat laid on a dish. Serve them with a garnishing in the center composed of cocks'-combs and kidneys, mushrooms and truffles, mingled with suprême sauce (No. 547), into which has been added half its quantity of mushroom purée (No. 722).





(2002). PULLETS' MINION FILLETS WITH MACéDOINE (Filets Mignons de Poularde à la Macédoine).

Pare twelve pullets' minion fillets, remove the outer skin and inside sinew; pare and streak with three-quarter circles of red beef tongue cut into graduated sizes; range them on the bottom of a sautoir and cover with clarified butter, forming each one into the shape of a crescent, salt, sprinkle with butter, and cook in a slow oven, then drain off. Cover a dish with a garnishing of macédoine vegetables mixed with béchamel (No. 680), and finished with a few spoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402) and several small pats of fresh butter; surround this with the minion fillets. Fill some crescent-shaped bottomless molds placed on a sheet of buttered paper with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) leveled to the height of the mold with the blade of a knife. Place a sautoir on the fire containing clarified butter, set in the molds having the paper on top, push in the oven to detach the paper; remove this and lay the sautoir on the fire to color the cresent to a fine color on both sides; unmold, drain, and dress the minion fillets on these, and around arrange the macédoine garnishing (No. 680).






View page [626]


(2003). PULLETS' LEGS à LA BAYONNAISE (Cuisses de Poularde à la Bayonnaise).

Remove the legs from three singed pullets retaining the skin covering the back as far down as the rump; bone them entirely with the exception of the drumstick; put them in a vessel with salt, mignonette, lemon juice and a broken bay leaf; let marinate for three hours, being careful to turn them over several times. Twenty-five minutes before serving, drain and roll each one in flour, fry them in grated fat pork and when they attain a fine color and are well cooked, remove. Slice four medium onions three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; detach the pieces so they form rings, flour over and fry these to a golden brown. Dress the legs in the middle of a dish, cover over with brown poivrade sauce (No. 522) with some grated Bayonne ham added to it, and garnish the whole with the fried onions; trim the stump bones with paper frills (No. 10) and serve immediately.





(2004). PULLETS' LEGS DEVILED (Cuisses de Poulardes à la Diable).

Generally this dish is prepared with pullets' legs already cooked and then broiled, but raw ones can also be used. Score and season well-pepper should predominate-then roll them in mustard diluted with oil; besprinkle with bread-crumbs and broil on a slow fire, turning them over. Serve with a deviled sauce (No. 459).





(2005). PULLETS' LEGS WITH NEW CARROTS (Cuisses de Poulardes aux Carottes Nouvelles).

Have three singed pullets and from them remove the legs and the skin covering the back, bone them entirely, retaining the drum sticks; stuff them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and cooked fine herbs (No. 385), shaping them like a cutlet; cover with slices of fat pork and braise them in a little mirepoix stock with white wine (No. 419) into which add six dozen small new blanched carrots, but in case there be no new ones procurable use others, cutting them up to represent the new ones. When these are cooked, lift them out and place them in a saucepan with a little butter, chicken glaze (No. 398) and fine herbs. Strain the stock, free it of fat and reduce it with espagnole sauce (No. 414) to the consistency of half-glaze; skim well the surface of the sauce; dress the legs in the center of a dish with the new or other carrots around, pour over some of the sauce and serve the remainder of it separately.





(2006). SQUABS à LA BRIAND (Pigeonneaux à la Briand).

Soak bread-crumbs in a little broth; press it to extract well the moisture, then lay it in a bowl with a quarter as much good butter, a few egg-yolks and one whole egg; work this preparation well, seasoning with salt, pepper, parsley and onions chopped and blanched; use this for filling the squabs, then truss them for an entrée (No. 178) and run them on the spit to roast, being careful to baste over occasionally with butter; untie them, remove the larding pork covering the breasts and lay them on a bed of sautéd tomatoes (No. 2841). Serve a brown sauce (No. 414) separately into which mix Worcestershire sauce, meat glaze (No. 402), chopped parsley and tarragon vinegar.





(2007). SQUABS CRAPAUDINE-BROILED (Pigeonneaux Grillés Crapaudine).

After a squab has been well drawn, singed and thoroughly cleaned, cut each side from the pinion of the wing to the tip of the breast; open without detaching the parts, having the legs and back on one end, and the breast on the other; beat well to flatten, season and dip in melted butter; roll them in bread-crumbs and broil slowly. While this is progressing chop up one shallot exceedingly fine, blanch, drain and fry it colorless in butter, add to it some clear gravy (No. 404) and a little espagnole sauce (No. 414) and white wine; season and then pour this sauce into a dish, dress the squabs on it and surround with slices of lemon cut in halves.





[Illustration: A plate of squabs surrounded with slices of lemon cut in halves.]




(2008). SQUABS à LA CRISPI (Pigeonneaux à la Crispi).

Bone the backs of some small squabs, fill the insides with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), containing mushrooms, ham and truffles cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, enclosing it well in the birds. Lay some rings in a sautoir already garnished with slices of fat pork, and place the squabs inside these rings, cover with more slices of the pork and moisten with a very little mirepoix stock (No. 419) with Madeira wine, and when cooked place a round tin plate on the squabs


View page [627]
with a weight on top to flatten the birds slightly. Dress them crown-shaped and cover over with green ravigote sauce (No. 531); lay a cooked trussed crawfish and serve more of the sauce separately.





(2009). SQUABS à LA FLOURENS (Pigeonneaux à la Flourens).

Procure eight squabs, draw, singe and truss as for an entrée (No. 178), or one squash for each guest Chop up very fine eight ounces of beef marrow, mix with it eight ounces of butter, some chopped parsley, finely cut up chives, eight chopped tarragon leaves, a little crushed and chopped garlic, salt, pepper, four ounces of lean ham cut into one-eighth inch squares, four ounces of bread-crumbs and two whole eggs. Fill the squabs with this dressing and roast them either on the spit or in the oven for thirty minutes, basting them frequently. When done, untruss, dress in a circle and pour in a garnishing of sweetbreads and artichoke bottoms cut in three-sixteenth inch squares to which has been added some espagnole sauce (No. 414). Serve some of this sauce separately.





(2010). SQUABS à L'IMPROMPTU-SAUTéD (Pigeonneaux Sautés à l'Impromptu).

After the squabs are prepared the same as for broiling, fry them in clarified butter, and when done, dress. Fry and cook colorless a teaspoonful of chopped shallots for each pigeon, add to it a little flour, moisten lightly with stock (No. 194a) and white wine, boil and skim; reduce this rapidly over a hot fire and just when ready to serve, incorporate a little fine butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley; pour this over the squabs and serve at once.





(2011). SQUABS à LA STANISLAS-STUFFED (Pigeonneaux Farcis à la Stanislas).

Fry eight ounces of bacon cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares in butter, also as much fresh mushrooms sliced the same size, with a little chopped shallot and parsley. Fill the pigeons with this preparation and roast them. Have as many round truffles as there are pigeons, each one inch in circumference, peel and use the parings to pound with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and with this make some quenelles the shape and size of large verdal olives; poach and put them into an allemande sauce (No. 407) with a little meat glaze (No. 402), also the peeled truffles and some channeled mushrooms (No. 118). When the squabs are roasted untruss and dish up with the garnishings ranged around.





(2012). SQUABS, AMERICAN STYLE-STUFFED (Pigeonneaux Farcis à l'Américaine).

Have six squabs, draw, singe lightly and truss as for roasting (No. 179); fill the insides with an American bread dressing (No. 61), and cover the breasts with thin slices of fat pork; roast them either in the oven or on the spit; they take about twenty minutes when stuffed and fifteen when not. Dress and surround with slices of broiled bacon, pouring a little clear gravy (No. 404) around.





(2013). SQUABS, COLBERT SAUCE-BROILED (Pigeonneaux, Grillés Sauce Colbert).

Select small squabs and after they have been plucked, drawn and singed, clean them nicely and cut the necks from the bodies; truss with the legs thrust inside and split them down through the back the whole length as far as the rump; beat the breasts to have them quite flat, pare, then season with salt and mignonette; immerse them in melted butter and roll in bread-crumbs; then broil over a slow fire for about ten minutes, laying them with the breast side downward and turning them over as fast as they attain a good color, finish cooking and dress with some gravy (No. 404) poured over or else serve them on a Colbert sauce (No. 451); garnish around with slices of lemon cut in halves.





(2014). SQUABS, ENGLISH STYLE (Pigeonneaux à l'Anglaise).

Truss eight squabs as for an entrée (No. 178), wrap them up in bards of fat pork. Lay them in a saucepan lined with thin slices of ham and moisten to their height with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); cover with a round sheet of buttered paper and place the lid on tight. Boil and simmer until the squabs are thoroughly done; which will take about twenty-five minutes. Prepare eight oval-shaped bread croûtons, three inches long by two wide, make an incision all around a quarter of an inch from the edge and to half their depth, then fry in clarified butter, and empty out the center. Dress the squabs on these croûtons, range on a dish and place between each a vegetable


View page [628]
garnishing composed of carrots trimmed to imitate new ones, then blanched and cooked in broth; turnips shaped like corks with the edges rounded, then blanched and cooked in white stock (No. 194a), small green peas boiled in salted water with fresh mint, tossing with butter after draining, and string beans boiled in salted water and finished with butter, fill in the center with a fine cauliflower boiled in salted water and having butter poured over. Serve a York sauce (No. 563) separately.





(2015). SQUABS, NEW YORK STYLE (Pigeonneaux à la New Yorkaise).

Have some squabs drawn, singed, cleaned, and trussed for an entrée (No. 178); fry them white in butter and dredge over a little flour; fry for a few moments longer without browning, then moisten with beef stock (No. 194a); add a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, small onions, portato balls made five-eighths of an inch in circumference, and small half inch dice of bacon fried in butter. A few moments before serving, add some quenelles shaped to represent large verdal olives either of godiveau or else of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which mingle chopped sweetbreads and parsley; poach these in boiling water. Just when ready to serve, remove the parsley, thicken the stew with raw egg-yolks diluted with cream, and incorporate a piece of fresh butter, and dress the squabs in the middle of a dish with the garnishing around.





(2016). SQUABS WITH TARRAGON (Pigeonneaux à l'Estragon).

After the squabs have been drawn and singed, split them lengthwise in two down the back, but do not separate the parts; beat lightly, and season with pepper and salt. Put two ounces of butter into a sauté pan, and after it begins to heat, lay in the squabs, the breast side downward, and set it on a brisk fire; when browned on one side, turn them to do likewise on the other; they take about twelve minutes to cook. Dress and pour off half the butter in the pan, and to the remainder add a pinch of flour, stir well, pour in some clear gravy (No. 404), two tablespoonfuls of good tarragon vinegar, and salt; let the sauce give one or two boils, season it nicely, and pour it over the squabs.





(2017). SQUABS WITH FIGARO SAUCE-FRIED (Pigeonneaux Frits à la Sauce Figaro).

Singe and draw some young, tender pigeons; truss as for an entrée (No. 178), then wrap them in slices of fat pork. Butter a saucepan, line it with sliced carrots and onions, and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); lay the squabs on top. Moisten to half their height and let the liquid fall to a glaze, then remoisten and boil very slowly until cooked to perfection, adding half a bottleful of white wine, pouring it in at two or three different intervals. Let the squabs become cold, then split them in two, pare nicely and dip them in frying batter (No. 137), and fry to a fine color, having the birds well heated throughout. Drain, wipe off, and salt; dress them on a folded napkin with a bunch of parsley on top. Serve at the same time but separately a figaro mayonnaise sauce (No. 609).





(2018). SQUABS IN EARTHENWARE SAUCEPAN OR STUFFED--ROASTED (Pigeonneaux Rôtis à la Casserole ou Pigeonneaux Farcis Rôtis au Four).

In Earthenware Saucepan.--Procure six squabs, draw, singe and truss well with the legs thrust inside, keeping them a pretty shape. Put two ounces of butter into a small earthenware saucepan and when hot, add the squabs and roast them in this over a good fire or in the oven; when done, drain and pour off the fat, detach the glaze with a little gravy (No. 404), untruss the squabs, put them back in the pan, dress, strain the sauce over them and serve in the earthen ware pan.


Stuffed.--Steep a piece of bread in broth and at once squeeze out all the moisture; lay it in a saucepan and add to it as much chopped beef suet, a few egg-yolks and one whole egg; stir this preparation with a spoon and season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and onions. Break the breastbones of three young, drawn and clean squabs, fill the empty space with the prepared dressing and roast them quickly on the spit, basting over with melted butter. Salt over when ready to take out, untruss and dress on a dish, garnishing them if so desired with a little very green water-cress seasoned with salt and vinegar, and serve some gravy (No. 404) separately.






View page [629]


(2019). SQUABS, BREASTS à LA DUXELLE-STUFFED (Filets de Pigeonneaux Farcis à la Duxelle).

Pare eight to ten breasts of squabs; split them in two through their thickness without detaching the parts, but simply to form a pocket, fill this in with a little duxelle with raw truffles (No. 461), close the opening, season the breasts, dip them in beaten eggs mixed with cooked fine herbs, (No. 385) roll in fresh bread-crumbs and then in melted butter and broil over a slow fire. Dress the breasts crown-shaped on a dish with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) to which has been added butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley.





(2020).