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Title: The Frugal Housewife, or Complete Woman Cook;...Also The Making of English Wines.
Author: Carter, Sussannah
Publisher: New York: G. & R. Waite, no. 64, Maiden-Lane.

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> A BILL OF FARE,
FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR.

> IN JANUARY.

> DINNER.

BEEF SOUP, made of brisket of beef; and the beef served up in the dish. Turkey and Chine roasted, with gravy and onion sauce; minced-pies.

Or,--Achbone of beef boiled, and carrots and savoys, with melted butter; ham and fowls roasted, with rich gravy; tarts.

Or,--Vermicelli Soup; fore quarter of lamb and sallad in season; fresh salmon, a sufficient quanity boiled, with smelts fried, and lobster sauce; minced pies.

> SUPPER.

Chickens fricaseed; wild ducks with rich gravy sauce; a piece of sturgeon or brown, and minced pies.

Or,--A hare with a pudding in its belly, and a strong gravy and claret sauce; hen turkey boiled with oyster sauce and onion sauce; brawn or minced pies.

> IN FEBRUARY.

> DINNER.

Chine or saddle of mutton roasted, with pickles; calf's head boiled and grilled, garnished with broiled slices of bacon, and with brains mashed with parsley and butter, salt, pepper, and a little vinegar; the tongue slit and laid upon the brains, a boiled pudding.

Or,--Ham, and fowls roasted, with gravy suace; leg of lamb boiled, with spinach.

Or,--A piece of fresh salmon, with lobster suace, and garnished with fried smelts and flounders; chickens roasted and asparagus, with gravy and plain butter.

> SUPPER.

Scotch collops; ducklings, with rich gravy; minced pies.

Or,--Fried Soals with shrimp sauce; fore quarter of lamb roasted, with mint sauce; dish of tarts and custards.

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> IN MARCH.

> DINNER.

Roast Beef, and horse radish to garnish the dish; salt-fish with egg sauce, and potatoes or parsnips, with melted butter; pease soup.

Or,--Ham and fowls roasted: marrow puddings.

Or,--Leg of mutton boiled, with turnips and caper sauce; cod boiled, with oyster sauce, and garnished with horse-radish; a bread pudding.

> SUPPER.

Scollop or fried oysters: leg of lamb, with spinach: tarts and fruit.

Or,--Fricasee of Coxcombs, lamb stones, and sweetbreads: pigeon pie, and marrow pudding.

> IN APRIL.

> DINNER.

Ham and Chickens roasted, with gravy sauce: a piece of boiled beef, and carrots and greens.

Or,--A roasted shoulder of veal stuffed, and melted butter: a leg of pork boiled, and pease pudding.

Or,--A dish of fish, (as in season): roast beef garnished with horse-radish, and plumb pudding.

> SUPPER.

Fricasee of lamb-stones and sweetbreads, or sucking rabbits: roasted pigeons and asparagus.

Or,--Boiled fowls and bacon, or pickled pork, with greens and butter melted, a baked plumb pudding or tarts.

> IN MAY.

> DINNER.

Beef Soup, with herbs well boiled; fillet of veal well stuffed and roasted; a ham boiled.

Or,--Rump of beef salted and boiled, with a summer cabbage: fresh salmon boiled, and fried smelt to garnish the dish, with lobster or shrimp sauce.

Or,--Saddle of mutton roasted, with a spring sallad, and a dish of fish.

> SUPPER.

Ducklings roasted with gravy sauce: Scotch collops, with mushrooms, &c. tarts.

Or,--Green Goose, with gravy sauce: collared eels: tarts.

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> IN JUNE.

> DINNER.

Leg of grass lamb boiled, with capers, carrots and turnips; shoulder or neck of venison roasted, with rich gravy and claret sauce; marrow pudding.

Or,--Saddle of grass lamb roasted, with mint sauce and turnips; turbot boiled, with shrimp and anchovy sauce; a quaking pudding.

Or,--A Haunch of Venison roasted, with rich gravy and claret sauce; tarts.

> SUPPER.

Fricasee of young rabbits, roast fowls and gravy sauce; gooseberry tarts.

Or,--Mackrel boiled, with plain butter and mackrel herbs; leg of lamb boiled and spinach.

> IN JULY.

> DINNER.

Green goose, with gravy sauce; neck of veal boiled, with bacon, and greens.

Or,--Roasted Pig, with proper sauce of gravy and brains pretty well seasoned; mackrel boiled, with melted butter and herbs; green pease.

Or,--Mackrel boiled, with melted butter and herbs; fore quarter of lamb, with sallad of coss lettuce, &c.

> SUPPER.

Chickens roasted with gravy or egg sauce; lobsters or prawns; green goose.

Or,--Stewed Carp; ducklings, with gravy sauce, and pease.

> IN AUGUST.

> DINNER.

Ham and fowls roasted, with gravy sauce; beans.

Or,--Neck of Venison, with gravy and claret sauce; fresh salmon with lobster sauce; apple pie hot and buttered.

Or,--Beef a-la-mode; green pease; haddock boiled, and fried soals or flounders to garnish the dish.

> SUPPER.

White fricasee of chickens; green pease; ducks, roasted, with gravy sauce.

Or,--Chickens or pigeons roasted, with asparagus; artichokes, with melted butter.

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> IN SEPTEMBER.

> DINNER.

Green pease soup; breast of veal roasted; boiled plain pudding.

Or,--A leg of lamb boiled, with turnips, spinach, and caper sauce; goose roasted, with gravy, mustard, and apple sauce; and pigeon pie.

> SUPPER.

Boiled pullets, with oyster sauce, greens and bacon; dish of fried soals.

Or,--A leveret, with gravy sauce; wild ducks, with gravy sauce and onion sauce; apple pie.

> IN OCTOBER.

> DINNER.

Cod's head, with shrimp and oyster sauce; knuckle of veal and bacon, and greens.

Or,--A leg of mutton boiled, with turnips and caper sauce; Scotch collops; fresh salmon boiled, with shrimp and anchovy sauce.

Or,--Calf's head dressed turtle fashion; roast beef, with horse-raddish; beef soup.

> SUPPER.

Wild ducks, with gravy sauce; scolloped oysters; minced pies.

Or,--Fried smelts, with anchovy sauce; boiled fowl, with oyster sauce; minced pies or tarts.

> IN NOVEMBER.

> DINNER.

A roasted goose, with gravy and apple sauce, and mustard; cod's head, with oyster sauce; minced pies.

Or,--Roast tongue and udder; roast fowls, and pigeon pie.

> SUPPER.

Stewed carp; calf's head hashed; minced pies.

> IN DECEMBER.

> DINNER.

Ham and fowls roasted,with greens and gravy sauce; gravy soup; fresh salmon, garnished with whiting or trout fried, and with anchovy sauce.

Or,--Cod's head, with shrimp and oyster sauce; roast beef, garnished with horse raddish; and plumb pudding boiled.

Or,--Roast beef with horse raddish, marrow pudding, and Scotch collops.

> SUPPER.

Brawn; pullets boiled, and oyster sauce; minced pies.

Or,--Broiled chickens, with mushrooms; a hare or wild ducks, with rich gravy sauce; minced pies.

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> THE
FRUGAL HOUSEWIFE.

> CHAP. I
OF GRAVIES AND SAUCES.

No. 1. To draw Gravy.

CUT a piece of beef into thin slices, and fry them brown in a stew-pan, with two or three onions, and two or three lean slices of bacon; then pour to it a ladle of strong broth, rubbing the brown from the pan very clean; add to it more strong broth, claret, white wine, anchovy, and a faggot of sweet herbs; season it, and stew it very well. Strain it off, and keep it for use.

No. 2. To make White Gravy.

Take part of a knuckle of veal, or the worst part of a neck of veal, boil about a pound of


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this in a quart of water, an onion, some whole pepper, six cloves, a little salt, a bunch of sweet herbs, and half a nutmeg sliced; let them boil an hour, then strain off the liquor, and keep it for use.

No. 3. A Gravy without Meat.

Take a glass of small beer, a glass of water, an onion cut small, some pepper and salt, and a little lemon peel grated, a clove or two, a spoonful of mushroom liquor, or pickled walnut liquor; put this into a bason; then take a piece of butter, put it in a sauce-pan, and set it on the fire, that it may melt; then dredge in some flower, and stir it well till the froth sinks, and it will be brown, put in some sliced onion, then put your mixture to the brown butter and give it a boil up.

No. 4. Gravy for a Turkey or Fowl.

Take a pound of lean beef, cut and hack it, then flour it well, put a piece of butter as big as a hen's egg into a stew pan; when it is melted, put in your beef, fry it on all sides a little brown, then pour in three pints of boiling water, and a bundle of sweet herbs, two or three blades of mace, three or four cloves, twelve whole pepper-corns, a little bit of carrot, a little crust of bread toasted brown; cover it close, and let it boil till there is about a pint or less, then season it with salt, and strain it off.

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No. 5. Gravy to make Mutton eat like Venison.

Take a woodcock or snipe, that is stale, (the staler the better) pick it, cut it in two, and hack it with a knife; put it into a stew-pan, with us much gravy as you shall want, and let it simmer for half an hour; then strain the gravy for use. This will give then mutton so true a flavour of game, that no one can tell it from venison.

No. 6. Gravy for a Fowl, when you have no Meat ready.

Take the neck, liver, and gizzard, boil them in half a pint of water, with a little piece of bread toasted brown, a little pepper and salt and a little bit of thyme. Let them boil till there is about a quarter of a pint: then pour in a glass of red wine, boil it and strain it; then bruise the liver well in, and strain it again; thicken it with a little piece of butter rolled in flour, and it will be very good.

No. 7. To make a strong Fish Gravy.

Take two or three eels, or any fish you have, skin or scale them, gut them and wash them from grit, cut them into little pieces, put them into a saucepan, cover them with water, a little crust of bread toasted brown, a blade or two of mace, some whole pepper, a few sweet herbs, and a little bit of lemon-peel. Let it boil till it is rich and good, then have ready a piece of butter, according to your gravy; if a pint, as big as a walnut.


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Melt it in the sauce-pan, shake in a little flour, and toss it about till it is brown, and then strain in the gravy to it. Let it boil a few minutes, and it will be good.

No. 8.To make Essence of Ham.

Take off the fat of a ham, and cut the lean in slices, beat them well, and lay them in the bottom of a sauce-pan, with slices of carrots, parsnips, and onions; cover your pan and set it over a gentle fire; let them stew till they begin to stick, then sprinkle on a little flour, and turn them; moisten them with broth and veal gravy. Season them with three or four mushrooms, as many truffles, a whole leek, some parsley, and half a dozen cloves; or instead of a leek, a clove of garlic. Put in some crumbs of bread, and let them simmer over the fire for three quarters of an hour; strain the liquor, and set it aside for use. Any pork or ham that is well cured will answer the purpose.

No. 9. To make a standing Sauce.

Take a quart of claret or white wine, put it in a glazed jar, with the juice of two lemons, five large anchovies, some Jamaica pepper whole, some sliced ginger, some mace, a few cloves, a little lemon-peel, horse-raddish sliced, some sweet herbs, six shallots, two spoonfuls of capers, and their liquor, put all these in a linen bag, and put it into the wine, stop it close, and set the vessel in a kettle of


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hot water for an hour, and keep it in a warm place. A spoonful or two of this liquor is good in any sauce.

No. 10. To make Sauce for roasted Meat.

Take an anchovy, wash it it very clean, and put to it a glass of red wine, a little strong broth or gravy, some nutmeg, one shallot shred and the juice of a Seville orange; stew these together a little, and pour it to the gravy that runs from your meat.

No. 11. To make sauce for Savoury Pies.

Take some gravy, some anchovy, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and a little mushroom liquor; boil it a little, and thicken it with burnt butter; then add a little claret, open your pie, and put it in. This serves for mutton, lamb, veal, or beef pies.

No. 12. To make Sauce for a sweet Pie.

Take some white wine, a little lemon juice, or verjuice, and some sugar; boil it, then beat two eggs, and mix them well together; then open your pie, and pour it in. This may be used for veal or lamb pies.

No. 13. To make Sauce for Fish Pies.

Take claret, white wine and vinegar, oyster liquor, anchovies, and drawn butter; when the pies are baked, pour it in with a funnel.

No. 14. To melt Butter Thick.

Your saucepan must be well tinned, and very clean. Just moisten the bottom with as


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small a quantity of water as possible; not above a spoonful to half a pound of butter. You may or may not dust the butter with flour; it is better not to flour it. Cut the butter in slices, and put it into the pan a little before the water becomes hot. As it melts, keep the pan shaking one way frequently, and when it is all melted let it boil up, and it will be smooth, fine, and thick.

No. 15. To burn Butter.

Put two ounces of butter over a slow fire, in a stew-pan or sauce-pan, without water. When the butter is melted, dust on a little flour, and keep it stirring till it grows thick and brown.

No. 16. To make Mushroom Sauce for White Fowls.

Take a pint of mushrooms, wash and pick them very clean, and put them into a saucepan, with a little salt, some nutmeg, a blade of mace, a pint of cream, and a good piece of butter rolled in flour. Boil these all together and keep stirring them; then pour your sauce into the dish, and garnish with lemon.

No. 17. Mushroom Sauce for White Fowls boiled.

Take half a pint of cream, and a quarter of a pound of butter, stir them together one way till it is thick; then add a spoonful of mushroom pickle, pickled mushrooms, or fresh if you have them. Garnish only with lemon.

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No. 18. To make Celery Sauce, for roasted or boiled Fowls, Turkies, Partridges, or other Game.

Take a large bunch of celery, wash and pare it very clean, cut it into little thin bits, and boil it softly in a little water till it is tender; then add a little beaten mace, some nutmeg, pepper and salt, thickened with a good piece of butter rolled in flour; then boil it up, and pour it in the dish.

No. 19. To make brown Celery Sauce.

Stew the celery as above, then add mace, nutmeg, pepper, salt, a piece of butter rolled in flour, with a glass of red wine, a spoonful of catchup, and half a pint of good gravy; boil all these together, and pour into the dish. Garnish with lemon.

No. 20. To make Egg Sauce for roasted Chickens.

Melt your butter thick and fine, chop two or three hard-boiled eggs fine, put them into a bason, pour the butter over them, and have good gravy in the dish.

No. 21. Shallot Sauce for roasted Fowls.

Take five or six shallots, peel and cut small, put them into a sauce-pan, with two spoonfuls of white wine, two of water, and two of vinegar; give them a boil up, and pour them into the dish, with a little pepper and salt. Fowls laid on water-cresses are very good without any other sauce.

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No. 22. Shallot Sauce for a Scrag of Mutton boiled.

Take two spoonfuls of the liquor the mutton is boiled in, two spoonfuls of vinegar, two or three shallots cut fine, with a little salt; put it into a sauce-pan, with a piece of butter as big as a walnut, rolled in a little flour; stir it together, and give it a boil. For those who love shallots, it is the prettiest sauce that can be made to a scrag of mutton.

No. 23. To make Lemon Sauce for boiled Fowls.

Take a lemon, pare off the rhind then cut it into slices, cut it small, and take all the kernels out; bruise the liver with two or three spoonfuls of good gravy, then melt some butter, mix all together, give them a boil, and cut in a little lemon-peel very small.

No. 24. A pretty Sauce for a boiled Fowl.

Take the liver of the fowl, bruise it with a little of the liquor, cut a little lemon-peel fine, melt some good butter, and mix the liver by degrees; give it a boil, and pour it into the dish.

No. 25. To make Onion Sauce.

Boil some large onions in a good deal of water, till they are very tender; put them into a cullender, and when drained, pass them through it with a spoon; put them into a clean saucepan, with a good piece of butter, a little salt, and a gill of cream: Stir them over the fire till they are of a good thickness.

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No. 26. To make Apple Sauce.

Take as many boiling apples as you chuse, peel them, and take out all the cores; put them in a sauce-pan with a little water, a few cloves, and a blade of mace; simmer them till quite soft. Then strain off all the water, and beat them up with a little brown sugar and butter.

No. 27. Bread, or Pap-sauce.

Take a pint of water, put in a good piece of crumb of bread, a blade of mace, and a little whole pepper; boil it for eight or ten minutes, and then pour the water off; take out out the spice, and beat up the bread with a little butter.

No. 28. Mint Sauce.

Take young mint, pick and wash it clean; then shred it fine, put it into a small bason sprinkle it well with sugar, and pour in vinegar to your palate.

No. 29. Parsley Sauce.

Tie parsley up in a bunch, and boil it till soft; shred it fine, and mix it with melted butter.

No. 30. To make Parsley Sauce in Winter, when there is no Parsley to be got.

Take a little parsley-seed, tie it up in a clean rag, and boil it for ten minutes in a sauce-pan; then take out the seeds, and let the water cool a little. Take as much of the liquor as you want, dredge in a little flour, and then put in your butter and melt it. Shred a


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little boiled spinach, and put it in also; and pour it into a boat.

No. 31. To make Lobster sauce.

Take a lobster, bruise the body and spawn that is in the inside very fine, with the back of a spoon; mince the meat of the tail and claws very small, melt your butter of a good thickness, put in the bruised part, and shake it well together; then put in the minced meat, with a little nutmeg grated, and a spoonful of white wine; let it just boil up, and pour it into boats, or over your fish.

No. 32. To make Shrimp sauce.

Put half a pint of shrimps, clean picked, into a gill of good gravy; let it boil with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and a spoonful of red wine.

No. 33. To make Oyster sauce.

Take a pint of oysters that are tolerably large; put them into a saucepan with their own liquor, a blade of mace, a little whole pepper, and a bit of lemon-peel; let them stew over the fire till the oysters are plump; pour all into a clean pan, and wash them carefully one by one, out of the liquor; strain about a gill of the liquor through a fine sieve, and the same quantity of good gravy, cut half a pound of fresh butter in pieces, roll up some in flour, and then put in all to your oysters; set it over the fire, shake it round often till it boil, and add a spoonful of white wine; let it just boil, and pour it into your bason or boat.--Many


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people add an anchouy, which greatly enriches the sauce.

No. 34. To make Anchovy sauce.

Strip an anchovy, bruise it very fine, put it into half a pint of gravy, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, a spoonful of red wine, and a tea spoonful of catchup; boil all together till it is properly thick, and serve it up. Add a little lemon juice if you please.

No. 35. To make a good Fish sauce.

Take half a pint of water, two anchovies split, a clove, a bit of mace, a little lemon-peel, a few pepper corns, and a large spoonful of red wine; boil all together, till your anchovy is dissolved; then strain it off, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. This is the best sauce for skate, maids, or thornback.

N. B. For other particular Sauces see the receipts for different dishes.

> OF ROASTING.

> General Rules to be observed in Roasting.

YOUR fire must be made in proportion to the piece you are to dress; that is, if it be a little or thin piece, make a small brisk fire, that it may be done quick and nice; but if a large joint, observe to lay a good fire to cake, and let it be always clear at the bottom. Alalowing a quarter of an hour for every pound


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of meat at a steady fire, your expectations will hardly ever fail, from a sirloin of beef to a small joint: nevertheless, I shall mention some few observations as to Beef, Mutton, Lamb, Veal, Pork, &c.

> BUTCHER'S MEAT.

To Roast Beef.

If it be a sirloin or chump, butter a piece of writing-paper, and fasten it on the back of your meat with small skewers, aad lay it down to a soaking fire, at a proper distance. As soon as your meat is warm, dust on some flour, and baste it with butter; then sprinkle some salt, and, at times, baste it with what comes from it. About a quarter of an hour before you take it up, remove the paper, dust on a little flour, and baste it with a piece of butter, that it may go to table with a good froth. Garnish your dish with scraped horse-radish, and serve it up with potatoes, brocoli, French beans, cauliflower, or celery.

To roast Mutton.

If a chine, or saddle of mutton, let the skin be raised, and then skewered on again; this will prevent it from scorching, and make it eat mellow: a quarter of an hour before you take it up, take off the skin, dust on some flour, baste it with butter and sprinkle on a little salt. As the chine, saddle, and leg, are the largest joints, they require a stronger fire than the shoulder, neck or loin. Garnish with scraped horse-raddish; and serve it up with


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potatoes, brocoli, French beans, cauliflower, water-cresses, horse-radish, pickled cabbage, and other pickles.

Serve up a shoulder of mutton, with onion sauce.--See the sauce Articles, No. 25.

To roast Mutton Venison Fashion.

Take a hind quarter of fat mutton, and cut the legs like a haunch; lay it in a pan with the back side of it down; pour a bottle of red wine over it, and let it lie twenty-four hours; then spit it, and baste it with the same liquor and butter all the time it is roasting, at a good quick fire, and two hours and a half will do it. Have a little good gravy in a boat, and currant jelly in another.--See No. 1, or No. 5.--
A good fat neck of mutton eats finely done thus.

A Shoulder or Leg of Mutton stuffed.

Stuff a leg of mutton with mutton suet, salt, pepper, nutmeg, grated bread, and yolks of eggs; then stick it all over with cloves, and roast it; when it is about half done, cut off some of the under-side of the fleshy end in little bits; put those into a pipkin with a pint of oysters, liquor and all, a little salt and mace, and half a pint of hot water; stew them till half the liquor is wasted, then put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, shake all together, and when the mutton is enough, take it up; pour the sauce over it, and send it to table.

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To roast a Breast of Mutton with Forc'd-meat.

A breast of mutton dressed thus is very good; the forc'd-meat must be put under the skin at the end, and then the skin pinned down with thorns; before you dredge it wash it over with a bunch of feathers dipt in eggs. Garnish with lemon; and put good gravy in the dish.--The force-meat may be the same as in the last receipt.

To roast a Tongue, or Udder.

Parboil it first, then roast it: stick eight or ten cloves about it; baste it with butter, and send it up with gravy and sweet sauce.
An udder eats very well done the same way.

To roast Lamb.

Lay it down to a clear good fire that will want little stirring; then baste it with butter, and dust on a little flour; baste it with what falls from it; and a little before you take it up baste it again with butter, and sprinkle on a little salt, and parsley shred fine. Send it up to table with a nice sallad, mint sauce, green peas, French beans, or cauliflower.-----See sauce, No. 28.

To roast Veal.

When you roast the loin or fillet, paper the udder of the fillet to preserve the fat, and the back of the loin to prevent it from scorching; lay the meat at first some distance from the fire, that it may soak; baste it well with butter,


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then dust on a little flour. When it has soaked some time, draw it near the fire: and a little before you take it up, baste it again. Most people chuse to stuff a fillet. The breast you must roast with the caul on, and the sweet-bread skewered on the back-side. When it is near enough, take off the caul, and baste it with butter. It is proper to have a toast nicely baked, and laid in the dish with a loin of veal, garnish with lemon and barberries.

The stuffing of a fillet of veal is made in the following manner: take about a pound of grated bread, half a pound of suet, some parsley shred fine, thime, marjoram, or savory, which you like best, a little grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, pepper and salt, and mix these well together with whites and yolks of eggs.

To roast Pork.

Pork requires more doing than any other meat; and it is best to sprinkle it with a little salt the night before you use it, (except on the rind, which must never be salted) and hang it up; by that means it will take off the faint, sickly taste.

When you roast a chine of Pork, lay it down to a good fire, and at a proper distance, that it may be well soaked.

A spare-rib is to be roasted with a fire that is not too strong, but clear; when you lay it down, dust on some flour, and baste it with butter: a quarter of an hour before you take


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it up, shred some sage small; baste your pork, strew on the sage, dust on a little flour, and sprinkle a little salt before you take it up.

A loin must be cut on the skin in small streaks, and then basted, but put no flour on, which would make the skin blister: Be careful that it is jointed before you lay it down to the fire.

A leg of Pork is often roasted with sage and onion shred fine, with a little pepper and salt, and stuffed at the knuckle; with gravy in the dish:
But a better way is this: parboil it first, and take off the skin; lay it down to a good clear fire, baste it with butter, then shred some sage fine and mix it with pepper, salt, nutmeg; and bread crumbs; strew this over it whilst it is roasting; Baste it again with butter just before you take it up, that it may be of a fine brown, and have a nice froth: send up some good gravy in the dish, and serve it up with apple sauce and pototoes.--See sauce, No. 26.

To stuff a Chine of Pork.

Make a stuffing of the fat leaf of pork, parsley, thyme, sage, eggs, and crumbs of bread, season it with pepper, salt, shallotes and nutmeg, and stuff it thick; then roast it gently, and when it is about a quarter roasted, cut the skin in slips. Serve it up with apple sauce as in the foregoing receipt.

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To roast a Pig.

Spit your pig, and lay it down to a clear fire, kept good at both ends: Put into the belly a few sage leaves, a little pepper and salt, a small crust of bread, and a bit of butter: then sew up the belly: flour it all over very well, and do so till the eyes begin to start. When you find the skin is tight and crisp, and the eyes are dropped, put two plates into the dripping pan, to save what gravy comes from it: put a quarter of a pound of butter into a clean coarse cloth, and rub all over it till the flour is quite taken off; then take it up into your dish, take the sage, &c. out of the belly and chop it small; cut off the head, open it, and take out the brains, which chop, and put the sage and brains into half a pint of good gravy, with a piece of butter rolled in flour; then cut your pig down the back, and lay it flat in the dish: Cut off the two ears, and lay one upon each shoulder; take off the under jaw, cut it in two, and lay one upon each side; put the head between the shoulders; pour the gravy out of the plates into your sauce, and then into the dish; send it up to table garnished with lemon, and if you please, pap sauce in a bason. See sauce, No. 27.

> GAME AND POULTRY.

To roast Venison.

After the haunch of venison is spitted, take a piece of butter, and rub all over the [GAP IN TEXT. Type: . Extent: word]


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dust on a little flour, and sprinkle a little salt: then take a sheet of writing paper, butter it well, and lay over the fat part; put two sheets over that, and tie the paper on with small twine: Keep it well basted, and let there be a good soaking fire. If a large haunch, it will take near three hours to do it. Five minutes before you send it to table, take off the paper, dust it over with a little flour, and baste it with butter, let it go up with a good froth; put no gravy in the dish, but send it in one boat, and currant jelly melted in another.

To roast a Hare.

Case and truss your hare, and then make a pudding thus: A quarter of a pound of beef suet minced fine; as much bread crumbs; the liver chopped fine; parsley and lemon-peel shred fine, seasoned with pepper salt, and nutmeg. Moisten it with an egg, and put it into the hare, sew up the belly, and lay it down to a good fire: Let your dripping pan be very clean; put into it a quart of milk, and six ounces of butter, and baste it with this till the whole is used: about five minutes before you take it up, dust on a little flour, and baste with fresh butter, that it may go to table with a good froth. Put a little gravy in the dish, and the rest in a boat: Garnish your dish with lemon.--See gravy, No. 1, or No. 4.

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To roast Rabbits.

Baste them with good butter, and dredge them with a little flour. Half an hour will do them, at a very quick clear fire; and if they are very small, twenty minutes will do them. Take the livers with a little bunch of parsley, and boil them, and then chop them very fine together. Melt some good butter, and put half the liver and parsley into the butter; pour it into the dish, and garnish the dish with the other half. Let the rabbits be done of a fine light brown.

To roast a Rabbit Hare fashion.

Lard a rabbit with bacon; put a pudding in its belly, and roast it as you do a hare, and it eats very well. Send it up with gravy sauce.--See gravy, No. 1, or No. 4.

To roast a Turkey, Goose, Duck, Fowl, &c.

When you roast a turkey, goose, fowl, or chicken, lay them down to a good fire. Singe them clean with white paper, baste them with butter, and dust on some flour. As to time,
a large turkey will take an hour and twenty mintues; a middling one a full hour;
a full grown goose, if young, an hour;
a large fowl three quarters of an hour; a middling one half an hour,
and a small chicken twenty minutes; but this depends entirely on the goodness of your fire.

When your fowls are thoroughly plump,


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and the smoke draws from the breast to the fire, you may be sure that they are very near done. Then baste them with butter; dust on a very little flour, and as soon as they have a good froth, serve them up.

Geese and ducks are commonly seasoned with onions, sage, and a little pepper and salt.

A turkey when roasted, is generally stuffed in the craw with forc'd-meat, or the following stuffing: Take a pound of veal, as much grated bread, half a pound of suet cut and beat very fine, a little parsley, with a small matter of thyme, or savory, two cloves, half a nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of shred lemon-peel, a little pepper and salt, and the yolks of two eggs.

Sauce for a turkey. Good gravy in a boat; and either bread, onion, or oyster sauce in a bason.--See gravy, No. 1, and No, 4.--sauce No. 25, No. 27, and No. 33.

Sauce for a Goose.--A little good gravy in a boat, apple sauce in a bason, and mustard.--See sauce, No. 26.

For a Duck. A little gravy in the dish, and onions in a tea-cup--See Gravy, No. 1, or No. 4.

Sauce for fowls.--Parsley and butter; or gravy in the dish, and either bread sauce, oyster sauce, or egg sauce in a bason--See a variety of other sauces for Poultry, among the sauce Articles, Chap. I.

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A Fowl or Turkey roasted with Chestnuts.

Roast a quarter of a hundred of chesnuts, and peel them; save out eight or ten, the rest bruise in a mortar, with a liver of a fowl, a quarter of a pound of ham well pounded, and sweet herbs and parsley chopped fine: Season it with mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt: mix all these together, and put them into the belly of your fowl: Spit it, and tie the neck and vent close. For sauce, take the rest of the chesnuts, cut them in pieces, and put them into a strong gravy, with a glass of white wine: thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Pour the sauce in the dish, and garnish with orange and water-cresses.

To roast a green Goose with green sauce.

Roast your goose nicely; in the mean time, make your sauce thus: take half a pint of the juice of sorrel, a spoonful of white wine, a little grated nutmeg, and some grated bread; boil this over a gentle fire, and sweeten it with pounded sugar to your taste; let your goose have a good froth on it before you take it up; put some good strong gravy in the dish, and the same in a boat. Garnish with lemon.

The German way of dressing Fowls.

Take a turkey or fowl, stuff the breast with what force-meat you like, fill the body with roasted chesnuts peeled, and lay it down to roast: take half a pint of good gravy, with a


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little piece of butter rolled in flour; boil these together with some small turnips and sausages cut in slices, and fried or broiled. Garnish with chesnuts.

Note. You may dress ducks the same way.

To roast Pigeons.

Take a little pepper and salt, a small piece of butter, and some parsley cut small; mix these together, put them into the bellies of your pigeons, tying the neck ends tight; take another string, fasten one end of it to their legs and rumps, and the other to the mantle-piece. Keep them constantly turning round, and baste them with butter. When they are done, take them up, lay them in a dish, and they will swim with gravy.

Wild Ducks, Widgeons, or Teals.

Wild fowl are in general liked rather under done: and if your fire is very good and brisk, a duck or widgeon will be done in a quarter of an hour; for as soon as they are well hot through they begin to lose their gravy and if not drawn off, will eat hard. A teal is done in little more than ten minutes.

To roast Woodcocks or Snipes.

Spit them on a small bird spit; flour them, and baste them with butter: have ready a slice of bread toasted brown, which lay in a dish, and set it under your birds, for the trail to drop on. When they are enough,


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take them up, and lay them on the toast; put some good gravy in the dish, and some melted butter in a cup. Garnish with orange or lemon.

To roast Quails.

Truss them, and stuff their bellies with beef suet and sweet herbs shred very fine, and seasoned with a little spice: When they grow warm, baste them with salt and water, then dredge them, and baste them with butter. For sauce, dissolve, an anchovy in good gravy, with two or three shallots shred very fine and the juice of a Seville orange; dish them up in this sauce, and garnish your dish with fried bread crumbs, and lemon; send them to table as hot as possible.

To roast Pheasants.

Take a brace of pheasants, lard them with small lards of bacon: butter a piece of white paper, and put over the breasts, and about ten minutes before they are done take off the paper; flour and baste them with nice butter, that they may go to table with a fine froth: Put good gravy in the dish, and bread sauce, as for partridges, in a boat; garnish your dish with lemon.--See sauce, No. 27.

To roast Partridges.

When they are a little under-roasted, dredge them with flour, and baste them with fresh butter: let them go to table with a fine froth,


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putting gravy sauce in the dish, and bread sauce in a bason.--See sauce, No. 27.

To roast Plovers.

Green Plovers are roasted as you do wood-cocks: lay them upon a toast, and put good gravy sauce in the dish.
Grey plovers are toasted, or stewed, thus: Make a force-meat of artichoke bottoms cut small, seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg: Stuff the bellies, and put the birds into a saucepan, with a good gravy just to cover them, a glass of white wine, and a blade of mace; cover them close, and stew them softly till they are tender; then take up your plovers into the dish; put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, to thicken your sauce; let it boil till smooth; squeeze in a little lemon; scum it clean, and pour it over the birds. Garnish with orange.

To roast Larks.

Truss your larks with the legs across, and put a sage leaf over the breast; put them upon a long fine skewer, and between every lark a little piece of thin bacon: then tie the skewer to a spit, and roast them at a quick clear fire; baste them with butter, and strew over them some crumbs of bread, mixed with flour; fry some bread crumbs of a nice brown, in a bit of butter; lay your larks round in your dish, the bread crumbs in the middle, with sliced orange for garnish. Send good gravy in a boat.

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To roast Ortolans.

You may lard them with bacon, or roast them without, putting a vine-leaf between each; spit them sideways, baste them with butter, and strew bread crumbs on them while roasting; Send them to table with fried bread crumbs around them, garnished with lemon, and a good gravy sauce in a boat.

To dress Ruffs and Riefs.

Draw them, and truss them cross-legged, as you do snipes, and spit them the same way; lay them upon a buttered toast, pour good gravy into the dish, and serve them up quick.

> OF FISH.

To roast a Cod's Head.

Wash and scour the head very clean, scotch it with a knife, strew a little salt on it, and lay it before the fire; throw away the water that runs from it the first half hour, then strew on it some nutmeg, cloves, mace, and salt, and baste it often with butter. Take all the gravy of the fish, white wine and meat gravy, some horse-raddish, shallots, whole pepper, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and a bay-leaf or two: boil this liquor up with butter, and the liver of the fish boiled, broke, and strained into it, with the yolks of two or three eggs, oysters, shrimps, and balls made of fish; put fried fish round it. Garnish with lemon and horse-


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radish.--Or you may use the sauce, No. 31, or either of the four following Numbers, which ever is most agreeable.

To roast a Pike.

Take a large pike, gut it, clean it, and lard it with eel and bacon, as you lard fowl; then take thyme, savory, salt, mace, nutmeg, some crumbs of bread, beef suet, and parsley, all shred very fine, and mix it up with raw eggs; make it into a long pudding, and put it in the belly of your pike: sew up the belly, and dissolve three anchovies in butter, to baste it with; put two laths on each side the pike, and tie it to the spit: Melt butter thick for the sauce, (or if you please, oyster sauce) and bruise the pudding into it. Garnish with lemon.--See sauce, No. 33.

To roast an Eel.

Scour the eel well with salt; skin him almost to the tail; then gut, wash, and dry him; Take a quarter of a pound of suet shred as fine as possible, sweet herbs, and a shallot, and mix them together with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; scotch your eel on both sides, wash it with yolks of eggs, lay some seasoning over it, stuff the belly with it, then draw the skin over it, and tie it to the spit; baste it with butter, and make the sauce of anchovies and butter, melted.--See sauce, No. 34, or 35.

Any other river or sea fish, that are large enough, may be dressed in the same manner.

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> CHAP. III.
OF BOILING.

> General Rules to be observed in Boiling.

BE very careful that your pots and covers are well tinned, very clean, and free from sand. Mind that your pot really boils all the while; otherwise you will be disappointed in dressing any joint, though it has been a proper time over the fire. Fresh meat should be put in when the water boils, and salt meat whilst it is cold. Take care likewise to have sufficient room and water in the pot, and allow a quarter of an hour to every pound of meat, let it weigh more or less.

> BUTCHER'S MEAT.

To boil Beef or Mutton.

When your meat is put in, and the pot boils, take care to scum it very clean, otherwise the scum will boil down, stick to your meat, and make it look black. Send up your dish with turnips, greens, potatoes, or carrots.
If it is a leg or loin of mutton, you may also put melted butter and capers in a boat.

To boil a Leg of Pork.

A leg of pork must lie in salt six or seven days; after which put it into the pot to be


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boiled, without using any means to freshen it. It requires much water to swim in over the fire, and also to be fully boiled; so that care should be taken that the fire do not slacken while it is dressing. Serve it up with a pease-pudding, melted butter, mustard, buttered turnips, carrots, or greens.

N. B. The other joints of the swine are most commonly roasted.

To boil Pickled Pork.

Wash the pork and scrape it clean. Put it in when the water is cold, and boil it till the rhind be tender. It is to be served up always with boiled greens, and is commonly a sauce of itself to roasted fowls or veal.

To boil Veal.

Let the pot boil, and have a good fire when you put in the meat; be sure to scum it very clean. A knuckle of veal will take more boilink in proportion to its weight, than any other joint, because the beauty is to have all the gristles soft and tender.

You may either send up boiled veal with parsley and butter: or with bacon and greens.--See sauce, No. 29.

To boil a Calf's Head.

The head must be picked very clean, and soaked in a large pan of water a considerable time before it is put into the pot. Tie the brains up in a rag, and put them into the pot


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at the same time with the head; scum the pot well; then put in a piece of bacon, in proportion to the number of people to eat thereof. You will find it to be enough by the tenderness of the flesh about that part that joined to the neck. When enough, you may grill it before the fire, or serve it up with melted butter, bacon, and greens; and with the brains mashed and beat up with a little butter, salt, pepper, vinegar, or lemon, sage, and parsley, in a separate plate, and the tongue slit and laid in the same plate, or serve the brains whole, and the tongue slit down the middle.

To boil Lamb.

A leg of Lamb of five pounds will not be boiled in less than an hour and a quarter; and if, as it ought to be, it is boiled in a good deal of water, and your pot be kept clean scum'd, you may dish it up as white as a curd. Send it to table with stewed spinach; and melted butter in a boat.

To boil a Neat's Tongue.

A dried tongue should be soaked over night; when you dress it, put it into cold water, and let it have room; it will take at least four hours. A green tongue out of the pickle need not be soaked, but it will require near the same time. An hour before you dish it up, take it out and blanch it, then put it into the pot again till you want it; this will make it eat the tenderer.

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To boil a Ham.

A ham requires a great deal of water, therefore put it into the copper cold, and let it only simmer for two hours, and allow a full quarter of an hour to every pound of ham; by this means your ham will eat tender and well.

A dry ham should be soaked in water overnight; a green one does not require soaking. Take care they are well cleaned before you dress them.

Before you send a ham to table take off the rind, and sprinkle it over with bread crumbs, and put it in an oven for a quarter of an hour: or you may crisp it with a hot salamander.

To boil a Haunch of Venison.

Salt the haunch well, and let it lay a week; then boil it with a cauliflower, some turnips, young cabbages, and beet-roots; lay your venison in the dish, dispose the garden things round it in separate plates, and send it to table.

> GAME AND POULTRY.

To boil a Turkey, Fowl, Goose, Duck, &c.

Poultry are first boiled by themselves, and in a good deal of water; scum the pot clean, and you need not be afraid of their going to table of a bad colour.
A large Turkey, with


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a force-meat in his craw, will take two hours: one without, an hour and a half; a hen turkey, three quarters of an hour;
a large fowl, forty minutes; a small one, half an hour;
a large chicken, twenty minutes; and a small one a quarter of an hour.
A full grown goose salted, an hour and a half;
a large duck, near an hour.

Sauce for a boiled Turkey. Take a little water, a bit of thyme, an onion, a blade of mace, a little lemon-peel, and an anchovy: boil these together and strain them through a sieve, adding a little melted butter. Fry a few sausages to lay round the dish, and garnish with lemon.--Or you may use the Gravy, No. 4, or the Oyster sauce, No. 33, made with white gravy.

Sauce for a Fowl. Parsley and butter; or white oyster sauce.--See sauce, No. 33, or No. 17.

Sauce for a Goose. Onions, or cabbage, first boiled, and then stewed in butter for a few minutes.--See sauce, No. 26.

Sauce for a Duck. They should be smothered in onions.--See sauce, No. 25.

For Poultry there is also a variety of other sauces among the sauce articles.

Chickens boiled, with Celery sauce.

Put two fine chickens into a sauce-pan to boil, and in the mean time prepare the sauce;


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take the white part of two bunches of celery, cut about an inch and a half long, and boil it till tender; strain off the water, and put the celery into a stew-pan, with half a pint of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; season with pepper and salt; set it over a clear fire, and keep it stirring till it is smooth, and of a good thickness. Have ready half a dozen rashers of bacon; take up your chickens, pour your sauce into the dish, and put the rashers of bacon and sliced lemon round.

To boil Pigeon.

Let the Pigeons be boiled by themselves for about a quarter of an hour; then boil a proper quantity of bacon, cut square, and lay it in the middle of the dish. Stew some spinach to put round, and lay the pigeons on the spinach. Garnish with parsley dried crisp before the fire.

To boil Rabbits.

Truss your rabbits close, and boil them off white. For sauce, take the livers, which, when boiled, bruise with a spoon very fine, and take out all the strings; put to this some good veal broth, a little parsley shred fine, and some barberries clean pick'd from the stalks; season it with mace and nutmeg; thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour; and a little white wine. Let your sauce be of a good


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thickness, and pour it over your rabbits. Garnish with lemons and barberries.

To boil Rabbits with Onions.

Truss your rabbits short, with the heads turned over their shoulders: Let them be boiled off very white. Serve them up with the Onion sauce, No. 25, and garnish with lemon and raw parsley.

To boil Woodcocks or Snipes.

Boil them either in beef gravy, or good strong broth made in the best manner; put your gravy, when made to your mind, into a sauce-pan, and season it with salt; take the guts of your snipes out clean, and put them into your gravy, and let them boil; let them be covered close, and kept boiling, and then ten minutes will be sufficient. In the mean time, cut the guts and liver small. Take a small quantity of the liquor your snipes are boiled in, and stew the guts with a blade of mace. Take some crumbs of bread, (about the quantity of the inside of a stale roll) and have them ready fried crisp in a little fresh butter; when they are done, let them stand ready in a plate before the fire. When your snipes or woodcocks are ready, take about half a pint of the liquor they are boiled in, and put two spoonfuls of red wine to the guts, and a lump of butter rolled in flour, about as big as a walnut; set them on the fire in a sauce-pan. Never stir it with


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a spoon, but shake it well till the butter is melted; then put in your crumbs; shake your sauce-pan well; take your birds up, and pour your sauce over them.

To boil Pheasants.

Let them be dressed in a good deal of water; if large three quarters of an hour will do them: if small, half an hour. For sauce, use stewed celery, thickened with cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little salt, grated nutmeg, and a spoonful of white wine; pour the sauce over them; and garnish with orange cut in quarters.

To boil Partridges.

Boil them quick and in a good deal of water; a quarter of an hour will do them.

For Sauce. Parboil the livers, and scald some parsley: Chop these fine, and put them into some melted butter; squeeze in a little lemon, give it a boil up, and pour it over the birds. Garnish with lemon.

But this is a more elegant sauce:

Take a few mushrooms, fresh peeled, and wash them clean, put them in a sauce-pan with a little salt, set them over a quick fire, let them boil up, and put in a quarter of a pint of cream, and a little nutmeg; shake them together with a very little piece of butter rolled in flour, give it two or three shakes over the fire, (three or four minutes will do) then pour it over the birds.

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> OF FISH.

To boil a Turbot.

A turbot ought to be put into pump water, with salt and vinegar, for two hours before it is dressed. In the mean time put a sufficiency of water into a fish kettle, with a stick of horse radish sliced, a handful of salt, and a faggot of sweet herbs. When the water tastes of the seasoning, take it off the fire, and let it cool a little to prevent the fish from breaking. Put a handful of salt into the mouth and belly of the turbot, put it into the kettle, and boil it gently. A middling turbot will take about twenty minutes.

When it is enough, drain it a little; lay it upon a dish sufficiently large, and garnish with fried smelts, sliced lemon, scraped horse-radish, and barberries.

Sauce. Lobster sauce, anchovy sauce, and plain butter, in separate basons.--See sauce No. 31, and No. 34, 35.

To boil a Cod.

Gut and wash the fish very clean inside and out, and rub the back bone with a handful of salt; put it upon a fish plate, and boil it gently till it is enough; and remember always to boil the liver along with it. Garnish with scraped horse-radish, small fried fish, and sliced lemon.

Sauce. Oyster sauce, shrimp sauce, or lobster sauce, with plain melted butter, in different


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boats, and mustard in a tea-cup.--See sauce, No. 31, and No. 34, 35.

To boil a Cod's Head.

After tying your cod's head round with packthread, to keep it from flying, put a fish-kettle on the fire, large enough to cover it with a little water; put in some salt, vinegar, and some horse-radish sliced; when your water boils, lay your fish upon a drainer, and put it into the kettle; let it boil gently till it rises to the surface of the water, which it will do, if your kettle is large enough: then take it out, and set it to drain: slide it carefully off your drainer into your fish plate. Garnish with lemon, and hore-radish scraped.

Have oyster sauce in one bason, and shrimp sauce in another.--See sauce, No, 32, or 33.

To boil Crimp Cod.

Cut a cod into slices, and throw it into pump-water and salt; set over your stove a large fish kettle, or turbot pan, almost full of spring water, and salt sufficient to make it brackish: let it boil quick, then put in your slice of cod, and keep it boiling and clean scumm'd; in about eight minutes the fish will be enough; then take the slices carefully up, and lay them on a fish-plate. Garnish your dish with horse-radish, lemon, and green parsley.

Send shrimp sauce in one boat, and oyster sauce in another.--See sauce, No. 32, or 33.

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You may if you please, take some of the largest slices, flour them, and broil them to a fine brown, and send them in a dish for the lower end of the table.

To boil Skate.

Great care must be taken in cleaning this fish; and as it is commonly too large to be boiled in a pan at once, the best way is to cut it in long slips, cross-ways, about an inch broad, and throw it into salt and water; and if the water boils quick it will be enough in three minutes. Drain it well and serve it up with butter and mustard in one bason, and anchovy or soy sauce in another.--See sauce, No. 34, or No. 35.

You may, if you please, place spitchcock'd eels round about the skate.

To boil Soals.

Clean the soals well, and having laid them two hours in vinegar, salt and water, dry them in a cloth, and then put them into a fish-pan with an onion, some whole pepper, and a little salt. Cover the pan, and let them boil till enough. Serve them up with anchovy sauce, and butter melted plain; or with shrimp, soy, or muscle sauce.--See sauce, No. 31, 32, or 34, 35.

To boil Plaice and Flounders.

Let the pan boil; throw some salt into the water; then put in the fish; and (being boiled


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enough) take it out with a slice, and drain it well. Serve it up with horse-radish and boiled parsley, to garnish the edges of the dish; and with a bason of butter melted plain, and anchovy sauce; or butter melted with a little catchup or soy.--See sauce, No. 34, or 35.

To boil Sturgeon.

Having cleaned the sturgeon well, boil it in as much liquor as will just cover it, adding two or three bits of lemon-peel, some whole pepper, a stick of horse-radish and a pint of vinegar to every two quarts of water. When it is enough, garnish the dish with fried oysters, sliced lemon, and scraped horse-raddish, serve it up with a sufficient quantity of melted fresh butter, with a cavear dissolved in it; or (where that is not to be had) with anchovy sauce, and the body of a crab bruised in the butter, and a little lemon juice served up in basons.

To boil Salmon.

Let it be well scraped and cleansed from scales and blood: and after it has lain about an hour in salt and spring-water, put it into a fish-kettle, with a proportionate quantity of salt and horse-radish, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put it in while the water is lukewarm, and boil it gently till enough, or about half an hour, if it be thick; or twenty minutes if it be a small piece. Pour off the water, dry


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it well, and dish it neatly upon a fish-plate, in the center, and garnish the dish with horse-radish scraped, (as done for roast beef,) or with fried smelts or gudgeons, and with slices of lemon round the rim.

The sauce to be melted butter, with and without anchovy; or shrimp or lobster sauce in different basons.--See sauce, No. 31, or 32.

To boil Carp.

Take a brace of large carp, scale them, and slit the tails, let them bleed into about half a pint of red wine, with half a nutmeg grated; (keep it stirring, or the blood will congeal) then gut and wash them very clean; boil the roes first, and then the carp, as you would do any other fish, then fry them; fry some sippets cut corner-ways; and lastly, dip some large oysters in batter, and fry them also of a fine brown.

For the sauce, take two anchovies, a piece of lemon-peel, a little horse-radish, and a bit of onion, boil these in water till the anchovies are wasted; strain the liquor into a clean saucepan, and, as you like it, add oysters stewed, a lobster cut small, (without the spawn,) crawfish, or shrimps; set it over the fire, and let it boil; then take near a pound of butter, roll a good piece in flour, put it into your saucepan with the liquor, with what other ingredients you intend, and boil all together, till it is [GAP IN TEXT. Type: . Extent: several words] good thickness; then pour in the


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wine and blood, and shake it about, letting it only simmer. Take up the fish, put them into a dish, and pour the sauce over them.

Garnish your dish with fried oysters, horse-radish, fried parsley, and lemon; stick the sippets about the dish, and lay the roe, some on the fish and the rest on the dish; send it to table as hot as you can.

As this is an expensive method, you may if you please, dress carp according to the following receipt of dressing tench.

To boil Tench.

Clean your tench very well, then put them into a stew-pan, with as much water as will cover them; put in some salt, whole pepper, lemon-peel, horse-radish, and a bundle of sweet herbs, and boil them till they are enough.

For sauce.--Take some of the liquor, a glass of white wine, a pint of shrimps, and an anchovy bruised; boil all together in a sauce-pan, and roll a good piece of butter in flour, and break it into the sauce; when of a proper thickness, pour it over the fish. Garnish with lemon and scraped horse-radish.

To boil Mackrel.

Having cleaned the mackrel well, and soaked them for some time in spring water, put them and the roes into a stew-pan, with as much water as will cover them, and a little


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salt. Boil a small bunch of fennel along with them, and when you send them up, garnish with the roes, and the fennel shred fine.

Sauce.--Grated sugar in a saucer; melted butter, and green gooseberries boiled, in different basons; or, parsley and butter with a little vinegar or lemon.

To boil Eels.

Having skinned and washed your eels, and cut off the back skins with a pair of scissars, roll them round with their heads innermost, and run a strong skewer through them. Put them into a stew-pan, with a sufficient quantity of water, and a little vinegar and salt. Garnish with sliced lemon.

Sauce--Parsley and butter.

To boil a Pike, or Jack.

Gut and clean your pike very well with salt and water, fasten the tail in the mouth with skewer, then put it into a stew-pan, with as much water as will cover it, a little vinegar and salt, and a piece of horse-radish sliced. Garnish with sliced lemon, and scraped horse-radish.

Sauce.--Anchovy, shrimp, or soy sauce; or melted butter and catchup.--See sauce, No. 32, or 34.

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To dress a Turtle.

Fill a boiler or kettle with a quantity of water sufficient to scald the callapach and callapee, the fins, &c. And about nine o'clock hang up your turtle by the hind fins, cut off its head, and save the blood; then with a sharp-pointed knife separate the callapach from the callapee (or the back from the belly part) down to the shoulders, so as to come at the entrails, which take out, and clean as you would those of any other animal, and throw them into a tub of clean water, taking great care not to break the gall, but to cut it from the liver and throw it away. Then separate each distinctly, and put the guts into another vessel, open them with a small penknife, from end to end, wash them clean, and draw them through a woolen cloth in warm water, to clear away the slime, and then put them into clean cold water till they are used, with the other part of the entrails, which must all be cut up small, to be mixed in the baking dishes with the meat. This done separate the back and the belly pieces entirely, cutting away the four fins by the upper joint, which scald, peel off the loose skin, and cut them into small pieces, laying them by themselves, either in another vessel, or on the table, ready to be seasoned. Then cut off the meat from the belly part, and clean the back from the lungs, kidneys, &c. and that meat cut into pieces as small as a walnut, laying it likewise by itself. After


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this you are to scald the back and belly pieces, pulling off the shell from the back, and the yellow skin from the belly, when all will be white and clean; and with the kitchen cleaver cut those up likewise into pieces about the bigness or breadth of a card. Put these pieces into clean cold water, wash them out, and place them in a heap on the table, so that each part may lie by itself.

The meat, being thus prepared and laid separate for seasoning, mix two-thirds parts of salt, or rather more, and one-third part of Cayenne pepper, black pepper, and a nutmeg and mace pounded fine, and mixed together; the quanity to be proportioned to the size of the turtle, so that in each dish there may be about three spoonfuls of seasoning to every twelve pounds of meat.

Your meat being thus seasoned, get some sweet herbs, such as thyme, savory, &c. let them be dried and rubbed fine, and having provided some deep dishes to bake in, (which should be of the common brown ware) put in the coarsest part of the meat at the bottom, with about a quarter of a pound of butter in each dish, and then some of each of the several parcels of meat, so that the dishes may be all alike, and have equal proportions of the different parts of the turtle; and between each laying of the meat, strew a little of the mixture of sweet herbs. Fill your dishes within an inch and a half, or two inches of the


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top; boil the blood of the turtle, and put into it; then lay on force-meat balls made of veal, or fowl, highly seasoned with the same seasoning as the turtle; put in each dish a gill of good Madeira wine, and as much water as it will conveniently hold; then break over it five or six eggs, to keep the meat from scorching at the top, and over that shake a handful of shred parsley, to make it look green; when done put your dishes into an oven made hot to make bread, and in an hour and a half, or two hours, (according to the size of your dishes) it will be sufficiently done.

> To boil all kinds of GARDEN STUFF.

In dressing all sorts of kitchen garden herbs, take care that they are clean washed; that there be no small snails, or caterpillars between the leaves; and that all the coarse outer leaves, and those that have received any injury by the weather, be taken off. Next wash them in a good deal of water, and put them into a cullender to drain. Care must likewise be taken, that your pot or sauce pan be clean, well tinned, and free from sand or grease.

To boil Asparagus.

First cut the white ends off about six inches from the head, and scrape them from the green part downwards very clean. As you scrape them throw them into a pan of clean


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water; and after a little soaking, tie them up in small even bundles. When your water boils, put them in, and boil them up quick; but by over boiling they will lose their heads. Cut a slice of bread for a toast, and bake it brown on both sides. When your grass is done take them up carefully; dip the toast in the asparagus-water, and lay it in the bottom of your dish; then lay the heads of the asparagus on it with the white ends outwards: pour a little melted butter over the heads, cut an orange into small quarters, and stick them between for garnish.

To boil Artichokes.

Wring off the stalks close to the artichokes: Throw them into water, and wash them clean: then put them into a pot or sauce-pan. They will take better than an hour after the water boils; but the best way is to take out a leaf, and if it draws easy, they are enough. Send them to table with butter in tea-cups between each artichoke.

To boil Cauliflowers.

A cauliflower is the most favorite plant in the kitchen garden amongst the generality of people. Take off all green part, and cut the flower close at the bottom from the stalk; and if it be large or dirty, cut it into four quarters, that it may lay better in the pan, and be thoroughly cleansed. Let it soak an hour, if possible, in clean water; and then put it into


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boiling milk and water, (if you have any milk,) or water only, and skim the pan very well. When the flower or stalks left above it feel tender, it will be enough; but it must be taken up before it loses its crispness; for cauliflower is good for nothing that boils till it becomes quite soft. When enough, lay it to drain in a cullender for a minute or two, and serve it up in a dish by itself, and with melted butter in a bacon.

To boil Brocoli.

Strip off the small branches from the great one, then with a knife peel off the hard outside skin which is on the stalk and small branches, till you come to the top, and throw them into a pan of clean water as you do them. Have water boiling in a stew-pan, with some salt in it; when it boils, put in your brocoli, and as soon as the stalks are tender they are enough. Take them up with a skimmer, and be careful you do not break the heads off.

Some eat brocoli like asparagus, with a toast baked, and laid in the dish, with the brocoli upon it, and sent to table with a little melted butter poured over it.

To boil French Beans.

Take your beans and string them; cut them in two, and then across; when you have done them all, sprinkle them over with salt, and stir them together. As soon as your water boils,


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put them in, salt and all; make them boil up quick. They will be soon done, and look of a better green than when growing in the garden. If they are very young, only take off the ends, break them in two, and dress them in the same manner.

To boil Broad Beans.

Beans require a good deal of water, and it is best not to shell them till just before they are ready to go into the pot. When the water boils, put them in with some pick'd parsley, and some salt; make them boil up quick and when you see them begin to fall they are enough. Strain them off. Garnish the dish with boiled parsley, and send plain butter in a cup, or boat.

To boil Green Pease.

When your pease are shelled, and the water boils, which should not be much more than will cover them, put them in with a few leaves of mint: As soon as they boil, throw in a piece of butter as big as a walnut, and stir them about; when they are enough, strain them off, and sprinkle on a little salt; shake them till the water drains off, send them hot to table, with melted butter in a cup.

To boil Cabbage.

If your Cabbage is large, cut it into quarters; if small, cut it in half; let your water boil, then put in a little salt, and next your cabbage, with a little more salt upon it; make


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your water boil as soon as possible, and when the stalk is tender, take up your cabbage into a cullender, or sieve, that the water may drain off, and send it to table as hot as you can.
Savoys are dressed in the same manner.

To boil Sprouts.

Pick and wash your sprouts very clean, and see there are not snails or grubs between the leaves, cut them across the stem, but not the heart; after they are well washed, take them out of the water to drain; when your water boils, put in some salt, and then the sprouts, with a little more salt on them; make them boil quick, and if any scum arises, take it clean off. As soon as the stalks are tender strain them off, or they will not only lose their colour, but likewise their flavour.

To boil Spinach.

There is no herb requires more care in the washing, than spinach; you must carefully pick it leaf by leaf, take off all the stalks, and wash it in three or four waters; then put it into a cullender to drain. It does not require much water to dress it: half a pint in a sauce-pan that holds two quarts, will dress as much spinach, as is generally wanted for a small family. When your water boils, put in your spinach, with a spoon as you put it into the sauce-pan; let it boil quick, and as soon as tender, put it into a sieve or cullender, and


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press out all the water. When you send it to table, raise it up with a fork, that it may lie hollow in the dish.

To boil Turnips.

A great deal depends upon preparing this root for boiling. They require paring till all the stringy coat be quite cut off: for that outside will never boil tender. Being well rinded, cut them in two, and boil them in the pot with either beef, mutton, or lamb. When they become tender, take them out, press the liquor from them between two trenches, put them into a pan, and mash them with butter and a little salt, and send them to table in a plate or bason by themselves; or send them as they come out of the pot, in a plate, with some melted butter in a bason, for every one to butter and season them as they like.

To boil Parsnips.

Parsnips are a very sweet root, and an agreeable sauce for salt fish. They should be boiled in a great deal of water, and when you find they are soft, (which is known by running a fork into them) take them up and carefully scrape all the dirt off them, and then with a knife scrape them all fine, throwing away all the dirty parts; then put them in a sauce-pan with some milk, and stir them


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over the fire till they are thick. Take care they do not burn; add a good piece of butter, and a little salt, and when the butter is melted, send them to table.

But parsnips are in common served up in a dish, when well boiled and scraped, with melted butter in a bason.

To boil Carrots.

Let them be scraped very clean, and when they are enough, rub them in a clean cloth, then slice some of them into a plate, and pour some melted butter over them; and garnish the dish with the others, either whole or cut in pieces, or split down the middle. If they are young spring carrots, half an hour will boil them; if large, an hour;
but old Sandwich carrots will take two hours.

To boil Potatoes.

Potatoes must always be peeled, except they be very small and new. Some pare potatoes before they are put into the pot; others think it the best way, both for saving time and preventing waste, to peel off the skin as soon as they are boiled, which then slips off by rubbing them with a coarse cloth. In boiling them take care they be enough, and not over done; for if boiled too much, they mash and become watery. Therefore it requires good attention when you are boiling potatoes, and that they be taken up as soon


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as they begin to show the least disposition to break. This is a root in great request, and served up in a dish or plate, whole for the most part, with a bason of melted butter. On which occasion it will be some addition to the potatoes to set them before the fire till they are quite dry, and a little browned.

> CHAP. IV.
OF FRYING.

> OF BUTCHER'S MEAT.

To fry Tripe.

CUT your tripe into pieces about three inches long, dip them into the yolk of an egg, and a few crumbs of bread, fry them of a fine brown, and then take them out of the pan, and lay them in a dish to drain. Have ready a warm dish to put them in, and send them to table, with butter and mustard in a cup.

To fry Beef-Steaks.

Take rump steaks, beat them very well with a roller, fry them in half a pint of ale that is not bitter, and whilst they are frying, for your sauce, cut a large onion small, a very little thyme, some parsley shred small, some grated nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt; roll all together in a piece of butter,


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and then in a little flour, put this into the stew-pan, and shake all together. When the steaks are tender, and the sauce of a fine thickness, dish them up.

Another way to fry Beef-Steaks.

Cut the lean by itself, and beat it well with the back of a knife, fry the steaks in just as much butter as will moisten the pan, pour out the gravy as it runs out of the meat, turn them often, and do them over a gentle fire; then fry the fat by itself, and lay upon the lean:---For Sauce, put to the gravy a glass of red wine, half an anchovy, a little nutmeg, a little beaten pepper, and a shallot cut small; give it two or three little boils, season it with salt to your palate, pour it over the steak, and send them to table.

To fry a loin of Lamb.

Cut the loin into thin steaks, put a very little pepper and salt, and a little nutmeg on them, and fry them in fresh butter; when enough, take out the steaks, lay them in a dish before the fire to keep hot; then for sauce, pour out the butter, shake a little flour over the bottom of the pan, pour in a quarter of a pint of boiling water, and put in a piece of butter; shake all together, give it a boil or two up, pour it over the steaks, and send them to table.

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Note. You may do mutton the same way, and add two spoonfuls of walnut pickle.

To fry Sausages with Apples.

Take half a pound of sausages and six apples; slice four about as thick as a crown, cut the other two in quarters, fry them with the sausages of a fine light brown, and lay the sausages in the middle of the dish, and the apples round. Garnish with the quartered apples.

Stewed cabbage and sausages fried, is a good dish; then heat cold peas pudding in the pan; when it is quite hot, heap it in the middle of the dish, and lay the sausages all round edgways, and one in the middle at length.

To fry cold Veal.

Cut it into pieces about as thick as a dollar, and as long as you please, dip them in the yolk of an egg, and then in crumbs of bread, with a few sweet herbs, and shred lemon-peel in it; grate a little nutmeg over them, and fry them in fresh butter. The butter must be hot, and just enough to fry them in: For Sauce, make a little gravy of the bone of the veal; when the meat is fried, take it out with a fork, and lay it in a dish before the fire, then shake a little flour into the pan, and stir it round; put in a little


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gravy, squeeze in a little lemon, and pour it over the veal. Garnish with lemon.

To fry Beef Collops.

Cut your beef in thin slices, about two inches long, lay them upon your dresser, and hack them with the back of a knife; grate a little nutmeg over them, and dust on some flour; lay them into a stew-pan, and put in as much water as you think sufficient for sauce; shred half an onion, and a little lemon-peel very fine, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt: Roll a piece of butter in flour, and set them over a clear fire till they begin to simmer; shake them together often, but don't let them boil up; after they begin to simmer, ten minutes will do them; take out your herbs, and dish them up. Garnish the dish with pickles and horse-radish.

To make Scotch Collops.

Dip the slices of lean veal in the yolks of eggs, that have been beaten up with melted butter, a little salt, some grated nutmeg, and grated lemon-peel. Fry them quick; shake them all the time, to keep the butter from oiling. Then put to them some beef gravy, and some mushrooms, or forced-meat balls. Garnish with sausages and sliced lemon, and slices of broiled or fried bacon.


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Observe,
If you would have the collops white, do not dip them in eggs. And when fried tender, but not brown, pour off the liquor quite clean; put in some cream to the meat, and give it just a boil up.

To fry Veal Cutlets.

Cut a neck of veal into steaks, and fry them in butter; and having made a strong broth of the scrag-end, boiled with two anchovies, some nutmeg, some lemon-peel, and parsley shred very small, and browned with a little burnt butter, put the cutlets and a glass of white wine into this liquor. Toss them up together: thicken with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and dish all together; squeeze a Seville Orange over, and strew as much salt on as shall give a relish.

To fry Mutton Cutlets.

Take a handful of grated bread, a little thyme and parsley, and lemon-peel shred very small, with some nutmeg, pepper, and salt; then take a loin of mutton, cut it into steak, and let them be well beaten; then take the yolks of two eggs, and rub the steaks all over. Strew on the grated bread with these ingredients mixed together. For the Sauce, take gravy, with a spoonful or two of claret, and a little anchovy.

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To fry Calf's Liver and Bacon.

Cut the liver in slices, and fry it first brown and nice, and then the bacon; lay the liver in the dish, and the bacon upon it. Serve it up with gravy and butter, and a little orange or lemon juice, and garnish with sliced lemon.

To fry sweetbreads and Kidneys.

After splitting the kidneys, fry them and the sweetbreads in butter. Serve them up with a brown ragoo sauce, and mushrooms; garnish with fried parsley and sliced lemon.

To fry Eggs as round as balls.

Having a deep frying-pan, and three pints of clarified butter, heat it as hot as for fritters, and stir it with a stick, till it runs round like a whirlpool; then break an egg into the middle, and turn it round with your stick, till it be as hard as a poached egg; the whirling round of the butter will make it as round as a ball; then take it up with a slice, and put it into a dish before the fire; they will keep hot half an hour, and yet be soft; so you may do as many as you please.
You may poach them in boiling water in the same manner.

> OF FISH.

To fry Carp.

Scale and clean your carp very well, slit them in two, sprinkle them with salt, flour


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them and fry them in clarified butter. Make a ragoo with a good fifth broth, the melts of your fifth, artichoke bottoms cut in small dice, and half a pint of shrimps; thicken it with the yolks of eggs, or a piece of butter rolled in flour: put the ragoo into a dish, and lay your fried carp upon it. Garnish with fried sippets crisp parsley, and lemon.

To fry Tench.

Slime your tenches, slip the skin along the backs, and with the point of your knife raise it up from the bone; then cut the skin across at the head and tail, strip it off, and take out the bone; then take another tench, or a carp and mince the fish small with mushrooms, chives and parsley. Season them with salt, pepper, beaten mace, nutmeg, and a few savoury herbs minced small. Mingle these all well together, then pound them in a mortar with crumbs of bread, as much as two eggs soaked in cream, the yolks of three or four eggs, and a piece of butter. When these have been well pounded, stuff the tenches with this force; take clarified butter, put it into a pan set it over the fire, and when it is hot, flour your tenches, and put them into the pan, one by one, and fry them brown; then take them up, lay them in a coarse cloth before the fire, to keep hot. In the mean time, pour all the grease and fat out of the pan, put in a quarter of a pound of butter, shake some flour all over the pan, and keep stirring with


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a spoon till the butter is a little brown; then pour in half a pint of white wine, stir it together, pour in half a pint of boiling water, an onion stuck with cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a blade or two of mace. Cover them close, and let them stew as softly as you can for a quarter of an hour, then strain off the liquor, put it into the pan again, add two spoonfuls of catchup, have ready an ounce of truffles or morels boiled tender in half a pint of water, pour the truffles, water and all, into the pan, with a few mushrooms, and either half a pint of oisters, clean washed in their own liquor, and the liquor and all put into the pan, or some craw-fish; but then you must put in the tails, and after clean picking them, boil them in half a pint of water; then strain the liquor, and put into the sauce: or take some fish-melts, and toss up in your sauce. All this is just as you fancy.

When you find your sauce is very good, put your tench into the pan, and make them quite hot, then lay them into your dish, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with lemon.

Or you may, for change, put in half a pint of stale beer instead of water.
Or you may dress tench just as you do carp.

To fry Trout.

Scale your trout clean, then gut them, and take out the gills, wash them, and dry them in a cloth, flour them, and fry them in butter till


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they are of a fine brown; when they are enough, take them up, and serve them; fry some parsley green and crisp, melt anchovy and butter, with a spoonful of white wine. Dish your fish, and garnish with fried parsley and sliced lemon. You may pour your sauce over the fish, or send it in a boat, which you please.

In this manner you may fry perch, small pike, jacks, roach, gudgeons, or a chine of fresh salmon.

To fry Flat Fish.

Dry the fish well in a cloth, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and dust over some flour: let your oil, butter, lard, or dripping be ready to boil before you put in the fish; fry them off with a quick fire, and let them be of a fine brown. Before you dish them up, lay them upon a drainer before the fire sloping, for two or three minutes, which will prevent their eating greasy.--For sauce, take the Fish Sauce, No. 35.

You must observe on fast days, and in Lent never to dress your fish in anything but butter or oil.

To fry Herrings.

After having cleaned your herring, take out the roes, dry them and the herrings in a cloth; flour them, and fry them in butter of a fine brown; lay them before the fire to drain; slice three or four onions, flour them


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and fry them nicely; dish up the herrings, and garnish them with the roes and onions; send them up as hot as you can, with butter and mustard in a cup.

To fry Eels.

After having cleaned and skinned your eels, split them, and cut them in pieces; let them lay for two or three hours in a pickle made in vinegar, salt, pepper, bay leaves, sliced onion, and juice of lemon; then dredge them well with flour, and fry them in clarified butter; serve them dry with fried parsley and lemon for garnish. Send plain butter, and anchovy sauce in several cups.--See sauce, No. 34, or 35.

To fry Lampries.

Bleed them and save the blood, then wash them in hot water to take off the slime, cut them in pieces, and let them be fried in butter, not quite enough, drain out all the fat, then put in a little white wine, and shake your pan; season them with whole pepper, nutmeg, salt, sweet herbs, and a bay leaf, a good piece of butter rolled in flour, and the blood that was saved; cover them close, and shake the pan often. When you think they are enough, take them up, and give the sauce a quick boil, squeeze in a little lemon, and pour the sauce over the fish.--Send it to table garnished with lemon.

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To fry small Fish of all Sorts.

Small fish are generally dressed to garnish a dish of fish, as smelts, gudgeons, roach, small whitings, &c. Wipe them dry with a cloth, then rub them over with the yolk of an egg, flour them, and dip them in oil, butter, hog's lard, or beef-dripping; take care they are fried of a fine light brown; and if they are sent by themselves in a dish, garnish with fried parsley and lemon.

Whitings when small should be turned round, the tail put into the mouths and so fried; if large, they are skinned, turned round and fried.

Plaice, flounders, and dabs are rubbed over with eggs, and fried.

As these sorts of fish are generally dressed by themselves for supper, you may send various sauces as you like best; either shrimps, oysters, anchovy and butter, or plain melted butter; and some chuse oil and lemon.--See Sauces, No. 32, 33, 34, or 35.

To fry Oysters.

You must make a batter of milk, eggs, and flour; then take your oisters and wash them; wipe them dry, and dip them in the batter, then roll them in some crumbs of bread and a little mace beat fine, and fry them in very hot butter or lard.

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Or, beat four eggs with salt, put in a little nutmeg grated, and a spoonful of grated bread, then make it as thick as batter for pancakes, with fine flour; drop the oysters in, and fry them brown in clarified beef suet. They are to lie round any dish of fish.
Ox-palates boiled tender, blanched, and cut in pieces, then fried in such batter, is proper to garnish hashes or fricassees.

> OF GARDEN STUFF.

To fry Artichoke Bottoms.

First blanch them in water, then flour them, fry them in fresh butter, lay them in your dish, and pour melted butter over them.
Or you may put a little red wine into the butter, and season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt.

To fry Cauliflowers.

Take two fine cauliflowers, boil them in milk and water, then leave one whole, and pull the other to pieces; take half a pound of butter, with two spoonfuls of water, a little dust of flour, and melt the butter in a stewpan; then put in the whole cauliflower cut in two, and the other pulled to pieces, and fry it till it is of a very light brown. Season it with pepper and salt. When it is enough, lay the two halves in the middle, and pour the rest allover.

To fry Celery.

Take six or eight heads of celery, cut off


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the green tops, and take off the outside stalks, wash them clean; then have ready half a pint of white wine, the yolks of three eggs beat fine, and a little salt and nutmeg; mix all well together with flour into a batter, dip every head into the batter, and fry them in butter. When enough, lay them in the dish, and put melted butter over them.

To fry Potatoes.

Cut them into thin slices, as big as a crown piece, fry them brown, lay them in the plate or dish, pour melted butter, sack, and sugar over them. These are a pretty corner plate.

To fry Onions.

Take some large onions, peel them, and cut them into slices about a quarter of an inch thick; then dip these slices into batter, or an egg beaten, without breaking them, and fry them of a nice brown.

To fry Parsley.

Pick the parsley very clean, and see that it be young. Then put a little butter into a clean pan, and when it is very hot put in the parsley; keep it stirring with a knife till it be crisp, then take it out, and use it as garnish for fried lamb, &c.

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> CHAP. V.
OF BROILING.

To Broil Beef Steaks, Mutton, or Pork Chops.

LAY your steaks on the gridiron, and throw upon them pepper and salt to your taste. Do not turn them till one side be enough; and when the other side has been turned a little while, a fine gravy will lie on the top, which you must take care to preserve and lift it altogether with a pair of small tongs, or carefully with a knife and fork, into a hot dish and put a little piece of butter under it, which will help to draw out the gravy. Some palates like it with a shallot or two, or an onion shred very fine.

But if they be mutton or pork steaks, they must be frequently turned on the gridiron.

The general sauce for steaks is, horse-radish for beef; mustard for pork, and gherkins pickled for mutton. But in the season, I would recommend for a good sallad, or green cucumbers, or celery for beef and mutton; and green peas for lamb steaks.

To broil Pigeons.

Put a bit of butter, some shred parsley, and


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a little pepper and salt in the bellies of the pigeons, and tie them up neck and vent. Set yor gridiron high, that they may not burn; and send them up with a little melted butter in a cup.
You may split them, and broil them with a little pepper and salt;
or you may roast them, and serve them up with a little parsley and butter in a boat.

To broil Chickens.

Slit them down the back, and season them with pepper and salt, lay them at a great distance, on a very clear fire. Let the inside lie downward, till they are above half done; then turn them, and take great care the fleshy side do not burn; throw over them some fine raspings of bread, and let them be of a fine brown, but not burn. Let your sauce be good gravy with mushrooms, and garnish with lemon and the livers broiled, the gizzards cut, slashed, and broiled, with pepper and salt.--See sauce, No. 16.

To broil Cod, Salmon, Whitings, or Haddock.

Flour them and have a quick, clear fire; set your gridiron high, broil them of a fine brown, and lay them in a dish. For sauce, take a good melted butter, with the body of a lobster bruised therein; cut the meat small, put all together into the melted butter, make it hot, and pour it into the dish, or into basons. Garnish with horse-radish and lemon.

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To broil Mackrel.

Gut them, wash them clean, pull out the roe at the neck end, boil it in a little water, then bruise it with a spoon; beat up the yolk of an egg, with a little nutmeg, lemon-peel cut fine, shred thyme, some parsley boiled and chopped fine, a little pepper and salt, and a few crumbs of bread; mix all well together and fill the mackrel; flour them well and broil them nicely. Let your sauce be plain butter, with a little catchup or walnut pickle.

To broil Herrings.

Scale them, gut them, cut off their heads, wash them clean, dry them in a cloth, flour them and broil them, but with a knife just notch them across: Take the heads and mash them, boil them in small beer or ale, with a little whole pepper and an onion. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, then strain it; thicken it with butter and flour, adding a good deal of mustard. Lay the fish in a dish, and pour the sauce into a bason; or serve them up with plain butter and mustard.

To broil Cod's Sounds.

You must first lay them in hot water a few minutes; take them out, and rub them well with salt, to take off the skin and black dirt, and to make them look white; then put them in water and give them a boil. Take them out and flour them well, pepper and salt them


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and broil them. When they are enough, lay them in the dish, and pour melted butter and mustard into the dish. Broil them whole.

To broil Eels.

Take a large eel, skin it and make it clean. Open the belly, cut it in four pieces; take the tail end, strip off the flesh, beat it in a mortar, season it with a little beaten mace, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, a little parsley and thyme, a little lemon-peel, and an equal quantity of crumbs of bread; roll it in a little piece of butter, then mix it again with the yolk of an egg; roll it up again and fill the three pieces of belly with it. Cut the skin of the eel, wrap the pieces in, and sew up the skin. Broil them well, and have butter and an anchovy for sauce, with a piece of lemon.

To spitchcock Eels.

You must split a large eel down the back and joint the bones, cut it in two or three pieces, melt a little butter, put in a little vinegar and salt, let your eels lay in it two or three mintues; then take the pieces up one by one, turn them round with a little fine skewer, roll them in crumbs of bread, and broil them of a fine brown. Let your sauce be plain butter, with the juice of lemon, or good gravy with an anchovy in it.

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To broil Eggs.

First put your salamander into the fire, then cut a slice round a quartern loaf, toast it brown, and butter it, lay it in the dish, and set it before the fire; poach seven eggs just enough to set the whites, take them out carefully, and lay them on your toast: brown them with the salamander, grate some nutmeg over them, and squeeze Seville orange over all. Garnish your dish with orange cut in slices.

> CHAP. VI.
OF STEWING.

To stew Beef.

TAKE four pounds of stewing beef, with the hard fat of brisket beef cut in pieces; put these into a stew-pan with three pints of water, a little salt, pepper, dried marjorum powdered, and three cloves. Cover the pan very close, and let it stew four hours over a slow fire. Then throw into it as much turnips and carrots cut into square pieces, as you think convenient; and the white part of a large leek, two heads of celery shred fine, a crust of bread burnt, and half a pint of red wine (or good small beer will do as well.) Then pour it all into a soup-dish, and serve it up hot, garnish with boiled carrot sliced.

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To stew Brisket of Beef.

Having rubbed the brisket with common salt and saltpetre, let it lie four days. Then lard the skin with fat bacon, and put it into a stew pan with a quart of water; a pint of red wine, or strong beer, half a pound of butter, a bunch of sweet herbs, three or four shallots, some pepper and half a nutmeg grated. Cover the pan very close. Stew it over a gentle fire for six hours. Then fry some square pieces of boiled turnips very brown. Strain the liquor the beef was stewed in, thicken it with burnt butter, and having mixed the turnips with it, pour all together over the beef in a large dish. Serve it up hot, and garnish with lemon sliced.
An ox cheek or a leg of beef, may be served up in the same manner.

To Stew Beef Gobbets.

Cut any piece of beef, except the leg, in pieces, the size of a pullet's egg. Put them into a stew pan, and cover them with water. Let them stew one hour and skim them very clean. Then add a sufficient quantity of mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied up loose in a muslin rag, some celery cut small, and salt, turnips, and carrots, pared and cut in slices, a little parsley, a bundle of sweet herbs, a large crust of bread, and if you please, add an ounce of pearl barley, or rice. Cover all close, and stew it till tender. Then take out the herbs, spices, and bread, and add a French


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roll fried and cut in four. Dish up altogether, and send it to table.

To stew Ox Palates.

Put the palates into a sauce-pan of cold water, and let them stew very softly over a slow fire till they are tender. Then cut them into pieces and dish them with cox-combs and artichoke bottoms cut small; and garnish with lemon sliced, and with sweetbreads stewed for white dishes, and fried for brown ones, and cut also into little pieces.

N. B. This stew is generally used for improving a fricasee, or a ragoo of veal, lamb, rabbits, &c.

To stew Beef Steaks.

Half broil the beef steaks, then put them into a stew-pan, season them with pepper and salt according to your palate; just cover them with gravy. Also put in a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let them stew gently for half an hour, then add the yolks of two eggs beat up, and stir altogether for two or three minutes, and serve it up. Garnish with pickles and horse-radish scraped.

To stew Beef Collops.

Cut raw beef, as veal is cut for Scotch collops. Put the collops into a stew-pan with a little water, a glass of white wine, a shallot, a little dried marjoram, rubbed to powder, some salt and pepper, and a slice or two of fat bacon.


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Set this over a quick fire, till the pan be full of gravy; which will be in a little time; add to it a little mushroom juice, and then serve it up hot; and garnish with sliced lemon, or small pickles and red cabbage.

To stew Veal in general.

Let the veal be under-roasted, or boiled; cut it into thick slices, and just cover the veal with water in a stew-pan. Season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, a little mace, sweet marjoram, a shallot, and lemon-thyme, or a little grated lemon-peel. Stew all together, and when almost enough, put into the liquor a little good gravy, and mushroom liquor, a glass of white wine and a little lemon juice. Let these stew a little longer. Then strain off the liquor, and thicken it with butter and flour. Lay the meat in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish the dish with sippets, and fried oysters, or bits of broiled bacon and sliced lemon on the rim of the dish.

To stew a Knuckle of Veal.

Boil the knuckle till there is just enough liquor for sauce. To which add one spoonful of catchup, one of red wine, and one of walnut pickle; also some truffles, morels, or dried mushrooms cut small, if you please. Boil all together. When enough, take up the meat; lay it in a dish, pour the sauce or liquor over it, and send it to table, garnished with sliced lemon.

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To stew a Neck of Veal.

Cut the neck of veal in steaks, and season them well with a mixture of salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, thyme, and knotted marjorum. Stew these gently over a slow fire, in cream or new milk, till they be enough, then add two anchovies, some gravy or strong broth, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Toss it up till it becomes thick. Then put it in a dish, and serve it up hot. Garnish with lemon sliced.

To stew a breast of Veal.

Let the breast be fat and white, cut off both ends and boil them for gravy. Make a forced-meat of the sweet-bread boiled, a few crumbs of bread, a little beef suet, two eggs, pepper and salt, a spoonful or two of cream, and a little grated nutmeg; with which mixure, having raised the thin part of the breast, stuff the veal; skewer the skin close dawn, dredge it over with flour; tie it up in a cloth, and stew it in milk and water about an hour.

The proper Saucefor this dish is made of a little gravy, about a gill of oysters, a few mushrooms shred fine, and a little juice of lemon, thickened with flour and butter.

To stew a Pig.

Roast a pig till it is thorough hot, then skin it, cut it in pieces, and put it into a stew-pan, with a sufficient quantity of strong gravy, a gill of white wine, some pepper, salt and nutmeg,


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an onion, a little marjoram, three spoonfuls of elder vinegar, (if you have any) and a piece of butter; cover all close, and stew it gently over a slow fire. When enough, serve it up hot, put sippets upon it, and garnish it with lemon sliced.

To stew Mutton Chops.

Cut the chops thin, put them into a shallow tin pan, with a cover that shuts very close. Add a very little water, with a little salt and pepper. Cover the pan very close, and set it over a very slow fire. They will be done in a very few minutes. Dish them with their own liquor. Garnish with capers or other pickles.

To stew a Leg or Neck of Mutton.

Bone the joint to be stewed. Break the bones and put them into a sauce-pan, with a sufficient quantity of whole pepper, salt and mace, to make it relish; also one nutmeg bruised, one anchovy, and one middling turnip; a little faggot of sweet herbs, two middling onions quartered, a pint of ale,(and as much red wine, if you like) two quarts of water, and a hard crust of bread. Stop it close, and let it stew five hours. Then put in the mutton, and let it stew two hours.

To stew a Hare.

Beat it well with a rolling-pin in its own blood. Cut it into little bits and fry them.


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Then put the hare into a stew-pan, with a quart of strong gravy, pepper and salt according to the palate, and let it stew till tender. Thicken it with butter and flour. Serve it up in its gravy, with sippets in the dish, and lemon sliced for garnish.

To jug a Hare.

Having cased the hare, turn the blood out of the body into the jug. Then cut the hare to pieces, but do not wash it. Then cut three quarts of a pound of fat bacon into thin slices. Pour upon the blood about a pint of strong old pale beer: put into the just a middling sized onion, stuck with three or four cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs: and having seasoned the hare with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and lemon-peel grated, put in the meat, a layer of hare, and a layer of bacon. Then stop the jug close, so that the steam be kept in entirely; put the jug into a kettle of water over the fire, and let it stew three hours, then strain off the liquor, and having thickened it with burnt butter, serve it up hot, garnished with lemon sliced.

To stew a Turkey or Fowl.

Take a turkey or fowl, put it into a sauce pan or pot, with a sufficient quantity of gravy or good broth; a bunch of celery cut small and a muslin rag, filled with mace, pepper and all-spice, tied loose, with an onion and sprig of thyme. When these have stewed


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softly till enough, take up the turkey or fowl: thicken the liquor it was stewed in with butter and flour: and having dished the turkey, or fowl, pour the sauce into the dish.

To stew Chickens.

Cut two chickens into quarters, wash them and put them into a clean sauce-pan with a pint of water, half a pint of red wine, some mace, pepper, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, and a piece of stale crust of bread. Cover them close, and stew them half an hour. Then put in a piece of butter as big as an egg, rolled in flour, and cover it again close for five or six minutes. Shake the sauce-pan about and take out the onion and sweet herbs. Garnish with sliced lemon.

N. B.
Rabbits, partridges, &c. may be done the same way; and it is the most innocent manner for sick or lying-in persons.

To stew Pigeons.

Stuff the bellies of the pigeons with a seasoning made of ground pepper, salt, beaten mace, and some sweet herbs shred very fine. Tie up the neck and vent, and when half roasted, put them into a stew-pan, with a sufficient quantity of gravy, a little white wine, some pickled mushrooms, and a bit of lemon-peel. Let them stew till enough.--Then take them out, thicken the liquor with butter and the yolks of eggs. Dish the pigeons,


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and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with lemon.

N. B. If you would enrich this receipt--You may, when the pigeons are almost done, put in some artichoke bottoms, boiled and fried in butter, or asparagus tops boiled.

To jug Pigeons.

Truss and season the pigeons with pepper and salt; and having stuffed them with a mixture of their own livers shred with beef suet, bread crumbs, parsley, marjoram, and two eggs, sew them up at both ends, and put them into the jug, the breast downwards, with half a pound of butter. Stop up the jug, so that no steam can get out; then set them in a pot of water to stew. They will take two hours and more in doing, and they must boil all the time. When stewed enough, take them out of the gravy, skim off the fat clean; put a spoonful of cream, a little lemon-peel, an anchovy shred, a few mushrooms, add a little white wine to the gravy, and having thickened it with butter and flour, and dished up the pigeons, pour the sauce over them. Garnish with sliced lemon.

To stew Ducks.

Draw and clean your ducks well, and put them into a stew-pan with strong beef gravy, a glass of red wine, a little whole pepper, an onion, an anchovy, and some lemon-peel.


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When well stewed, thicken the gravy with butter and flour, and serve all up together, garnished with shallots.

To stew Wild Fowl.

Half roast a wild duck, &c. then cut it into bits. When cold, put it into a stew-pan, with a sufficient quantity of beef gravy, and let it stew till tender. Then thicken it with burnt butter, and serve it up all together, with sippets within the sides, and lemon sliced on the rim of the dish.

To stew Giblets.

Let the giblets be clean picked and washed, the feet skinned, and the bill cut off, the head split in two, then pinion bones broken, the liver and gizzard cut in four, and the neck in two pieces: put them into half a pint of water, with pepper salt, a small onion, and sweet herbs. Cover the sauce-pan close, and let them stew till enough, upon a slow fire. Then season them with salt, take out the onion and herbs, and pour them into a dish with all the liquor.

To stew Carp or Tench.

Scrape them very clean, then gut them; wash them and the roes in a pint of good stale beer, to preserve all the blood, and boil the carp with a little salt in the water.

In the mean time strain the beer, and put it into a sauce-pan with a pint of red wine,


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two or three blades of mace, some whole pepper black and white, an onion stuck with cloves, half a nutmeg bruised, a bundle of sweet herbs, a piece of lemon-peel as big as a six-pence, an anchovy, and a little piece of horse-radish. Let these these boil together softly for a quarter of an hour, covered close; then strain the liquor, and add to it half the hard roe beat to pieces, two or three spoonfuls of catchup, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a spoonful of mushroom pickle; let it boil, and keep stirring it till the sauce is thick and enough; if it wants any salt, you must put some in, then take the rest of the roe, and beat it up with the yolk of an egg, some nutmeg, and a little lemon-peel cut small; fry it in fresh butter in little cakes, and some pieces of bread cut three corner-ways and fried brown. When the carp are enough take them up, pour your sauce over them, lay the cakes round the dish, with horse-radish scraped fine, and fried parsley. The rest lay on the carp, and put the fried bread about them: lay round them sliced lemon notched upon the edge of the dish, and two or three pieces on the carp. Send them to table hot.

To stew a Cod.

Cut your cod in slices an inch thick, lay them in the bottom of a large stew-pan, season them with nutmeg, beaten pepper, and salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion, half a


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pint of white wine, and a quarter of a pint of water; cover it close, and let it simmer softly for five or six minutes; then squeeze in the juice of a lemon; put in a few oysters and the liquor, strained; a piece of butter as big as an egg rolled in flour, and a blade or two of mace; cover it close, and let it stew softly, shaking the pan often. When it is enough, take out the sweet herbs and onion, and dish it up; pour the sauce over it. Garnish with lemon.

To stew Eels.

Stew, gut, and wash them very clean in six or eight waters, to wash away all the sand; then cut them in pieces about as long as your finger; put just water enough in the pan for sauce, with an onion stuck with cloves, a little bundle of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, and some whole pepper in a thick muslin rag, cover the pan, and let them stew very softly.

Look at them now and then; put in a little red wine, the juice of half a lemon, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. When you find they are quite tender and well done, take out the onion, spice, and sweet herbs. Put in salt enough to season them, and dish them up with the sauce.

To stew Oysters or Muscles.

Plump them in their own liquor; then having drained off the liquor, wash them clear in fair water. Set the liquor drained


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from the oysters, or as much as is necessary (with the addition of an equal quantity of water and white wine, a little whole pepper, and a blade of mace,) over the fire, and boil it well. Then put in the oysters, and let them just boil up, and thicken with a piece of butter and flour: some will add the yolk of an egg. Serve them up with sippets and the liquor, and garnish the dish with grated bread or sliced lemon.

To stew Spinach and Eggs.

Pick and wash your spinach very clean, put it into a sauce pan without water, throw in a little salt, cover it close, and shake the pan often; when it is just tender, and whilst it is green, put it into a sieve to drain, and lay it in your dish. In the mean time have a stew-pan of water boiling, break as many eggs in separate cups as you would poach. When the water boils, put in the eggs; have an egg-slice ready to take them out with, lay them on the spinach, and garnish the dish with orange cut in quarters, and send up melted butter in a cup.

To stew Parsnips.

Scrape them clean from the dirt, boil them tender, cut them into slices, put them into a sauce-pan, with cream enough for sauce, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little salt, and shake the sauce-pan often. When the


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cream boils, pour them into a plate for a corner-dish, or a side dish at supper.

To stew Cucumbers.

Pare twelve cucumbers, and slice them as thick as a crown-piece, put them to drain, and then lay them in a coarse cloth till they are dry; flour them, and fry them brown in butter; cut out the fat, then put to them some gravy, a little port wine, some pepper, cloves, and mace; let them stew a little; then roll a bit of butter in flour, and toss them up; season with salt: You may add a little mushroom liquor.

To stew Peas and Lettice.

Take a quart of green pease, two nice lettices clean washed and picked, cut them small across, put all into a sauce-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, and pepper and salt to your palate; cover them close and let them stew gently, shaking the pan often. Let them stew ten minutes, then shake in a little flour; toss them round, and pour in half a pint of good gravy; put in a little bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion, with three cloves, and a blade of mace stuck in it. Cover the pan close, and let them stew a quarter of an hour longer; then take out the onion and sweet herbs, and pour the rest into the dish.

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To stew Red Cabbage.

Take a red cabbage, lay it in cold water for an hour, cut into thin slices across, and then into little pieces. Put it into a stew-pan, with a pound of sausages, a pint of gravy, a little bit of ham or lean bacon; cover it close, and let it stew half an hour; then take the pan off the fire, and skim away the fat, shake in a little flour, and set it on again. Let it stew two or three minutes, then lay the sausages in the dish, and pour the rest all over. You may, before you take it up, put in half a spoonful of vinegar.

To stew Pears.

Pare six pears and either quarter them, or do them whole; (they make a pretty dish with one whole, the rest cut in quarter, and the cores taken out.) Lay them in a deep earthen pot, with a few cloves, a piece of lemon-peel, a gill of red wine, and a quarter of a pound of fine sugar. If the pears are very large, they will take half a pound of sugar, and half a pint of red wine; cover them close with paper, and bake them till they are enough.

Serve them up hot or cold, just as you like them;
and they will be very good with water in the place of wine.

To stew Mushrooms.

Take fresh mushrooms, clean them well, let their skins be pulled off, and their gills


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scraped out, if they happen to be sound, or else do not use them; cut the mushrooms in large pieces, and put them all together in a sauce-pan, without any liquor; cover it close, and let them stew gently, with a little salt, till they are tender, and covered with liquor; then take out your mushrooms, and drain them, or else put some pepper to them, with some white wine, and when they have boiled up, pour off the sauce, and thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour;
some will put in a shallot with the spice, but that will spoil the flavour of the mushrooms, which everybody desires to preserve.

> CHAP. VII.
OF HASHES.

To Hash Beef.

TAKE the raw part of any piece of roasted beef, and cut it into thin slices about the length of a little finger, and about the same breadth. Take also a little water, and an equal quantity of gravy; boil it well with a large onion cut in two, pepper and salt, then take a piece of butter rolled in flour, and stir it in the pan till it burns. Put it into the sauce, and let it boil a minute or two. Then put in the sliced beef, but you must only just let it warm


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through. Some add a few whole capers, mushrooms, walnut-pickle, or catchup.--Serve this up to table in a soup-dish, garnished with pickles.

To hash mutton.

Take mutton half roasted, and cut it in pieces as big as half a crown; then put into the sauce-pan half a pint of red wine, as much strong broth or gravy,(or water, if you have not the other) one anchovy, a shallot, a little whole pepper, some nutmeg grated, and salt to your taste; let these stew a little, then put in the meat, and a few capers and samphire shred; when it is hot through, thicken it up with a piece of fresh butter rolled in flour; have toasted sippets ready to lay in the dish, and pour the meat on them. Garnish with lemon.

To dress a Lamb's Head and Pluck.

Boil the head and pluck a quarter of an hour at most, the heart five minutes, the liver and lights half an hour. Cut the heart, liver, and lights into small square bits, not bigger than a pea. Make a gravy of the liquor that runs from the head with a quarter of a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled, a little walnut liquor or catchup, and a little vinegar, pepper, and salt. Then put in the brains and the hashed meat, shake them well together in the liquor, which should be only just as much as


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to wet the meat. Pour all upon the sippets in a soup dish; and, having grilled the head before the fire, or with a salamander, lay it open with the brown side upwards upon the hashed liver, &c. Garnish with sliced pickled cucumber, and thin slices of bacon broiled.

To mince Veal.

Take any part of the veal that is under done, either roasted or boiled, and shred it as fine as possible with a knife. Then take a sufficient quantity of beef gravy, dissolve in it the quantity of a hazul nut of cavear to half a pound of meat, and then put into the gravy the minced veal, and let it boil not above a minute. Pour it into a soup-plate or dish upon sippets of bread toasted; and garnish the dish with pickled cucumbers, &c. or with thin slices of bacon broiled.

To hash a Calf's Head brown.

Take a calf's head and boil it; when it is cold, take one half of the head, and cut off the meat in thin slices, put it into a stew-pan, with a little brown gravy, adding a spoonful or two of walnut pickle, a spoonful of catchup, a little red wine, a little shred mace, a few capers shred, or a little mango, boil it over a stove, and thicken it with butter and flour. Take the other part of the head, cut off the bone ends, and score it with a knife, season it with a little pepper and salt, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and strew over a few


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bread crumbs, and a little parsley; then set it before the fire to broil till it is brown; and when you dish up the other part, put this in the middle; lay about your hash brain cakes, with forced meat balls, and crisp bacon.

To make the Brain Cakes.

Take a handful of bread crumbs, a little shred lemon-peel, pepper, salt, nutmeg, sweet marjoram, parsley shred fine, and the yolks of three eggs; take the brains and skin them, boil and chop them small, so mix them all together; put a little butter in your pan when you fry them, and drop them in as you do fritters. If they should run in your pan, put in a handful more of bread crumbs.

To hash a Calf's Head White.

Take a calf's head, and boil it as much as you would do for eating; when it is cold cut it in thin slices, and put it into a stew-pan, with a white gravy; then put to it a little salt, shred mace, a pint of oysters, a few shred mushrooms, lemon-peel, three spoonfuls of white wine, and some juice of lemon; shake all together, boil it over the stove and thicken it up with a little butter and flour. When you put it in the dish, you must lay a boiled fowl in the middle, and a few slices of crisp, bacon round the dish.

To dress a Mock Turtle.

Take a calf's head with the skin upon it, and scald off the hair as you would do off a


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pig; then clean it, cut off the horny part in thin slices, with as little of the lean as possible; put in the brains, and the giblets of a goose well boiled; have ready between a quart and three pints of strong mutton or veal gravy, with a pint of Madeira wine, a large tea-spoonful of Cayenne pepper, half the peel of a large lemon shred as fine as possible, a little salt, the juice of two lemons; stew all these together, till the meat is very tender, which will be in about an hour and a half; and then have ready the back shell of a turtle, edged with a paste of flour and water, which you must first set in the oven to harden; then put in the ingredients, and set it into the oven to brown the top; and when that is done, garnish the top with yolks of eggs boiled hard and forced-meat balls.

N. B.
If you cannot get the shell of a turtle, a China soup-dish will do as well; and the crust may be omitted.

To hash cold Fowl.

Cut your fowl up, divide the legs, wings, breast, &c. into two or three pieces each; then put them into a stew-pan, with a blade or two of mace, and a little shred lemon-peel; dredge on a little flour, and throw on some gravy; when it begins to simmer, put in a few pickled mushrooms, and a lump of butter rolled in flour. When it boils, give it a toss or two, and pour it into the dish. Garnish with sliced lemon and barberries.

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To hash a Hare.

Cut up your hare entirely, put it into a stew-pan with some good gravy, a gill of red wine, some shred lemon-peel, and a bundle of sweet herbs; let it stew for an hour, then add some forced-meat balls, and the yolks of twelve hard-boiled eggs, with truffles and morels. Give them a boil up, then take out the herbs, place the hare handsomely on the dish, and pour your gravy, &c. over it. Garnish with sliced lemon and barberries.

> CHAP. VIII.
OF SOUPS.

To make Gravy Soup.

TAKE the bones of a rump of beef, and a piece of the neck, and boil it till you have all the goodness of it; then strain it off, and take a good piece of butter, put it in a stew-pan, and brown it, then put to it an onion stuck with cloves, some celery, endive spinach, and three carrots; put to your gravy some pepper, salt, and clover, and let it boil all together; then put in sippets of bread dried by the fire; and you may add a glass of red wine. Serve it up with a French roll toasted, and laid in the middle.

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To make a rich Giblet Soup.

Take four pounds of gravy beef, two pounds of scrag of mutton, two pounds of scrag of veal; stew them well down in a sufficient quantity of water for a strong broth; let it stand till it is quite cold, then scum the fat clean off. Take two pair of giblets well scalded and cleaned, put them into your broth, and let them simmer till they are stewed tender; then take out your giblets, and run the soup through a fine sieve to catch the small bones; then take an ounce of butter, and put it into a stew-pan, mixing a proper quantity of flour, to make it of a fine light brown. Take a small handful of chives, the same of parsley, and a very little of sweet marjoram; chop all these herbs together excessive small; set your soup over a slow fire, put in your giblets, butter and flour, and small herbs: then take a pint of Madeira wine, some Cayenne pepper and salt to your palate. Let them all simmer together, till the herbs are tender, and the soup is finished. Send it to table with the giblets in it.

N. B. The livers must be stewed in a sauce-pan by themselves, and put in the dish when you serve it up.

To make a good Pease Soup.

Take a quart of split pease, put them into a gallon of soft water, with a bunch of herbs, some whole Jamaica and black pepper, two


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or three onions, a pound of lean beef, a pound of mutton, and a pound of the belly piece of salt pork; boil all together, till your meat is thoroughly tender, and your soup strong; then strain it through a sieve, and pour it into a clean sauce-pan; cut and wash three or four large heads of celery, some spinach, and a little dried mint, rubbed fine; boil it till your celery is tender, then serve it up with bread cut in dice, and fried brown.

To make green Pease Soup.

Have a knuckle of veal of four pounds, a pint and a half of the oldest green pease shelled, set them over the fire with five quarts of water; add two or three blades of mace, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, a small onion stuck with three cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cover it close, and let it boil till half is wasted; strain it off, and pass your liquor through a sieve, put it into a clean sauce-pan, with a pint of the youngest pease, the heart of a cabbage, a lettuce or two, and the white part of three or four heads of celery, cut small, cover it close, and let it stew for an hour. If you think it is not thick enough, take some of your soup, and put in half, a spoonful of flour; stir it in a bason till it is smooth; pour it into your soup; stir it well together, and let it boil for ten minutes; then dish it up with the crust of a French roll.

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To make a White Portable Soup.

Take a leg of veal, bone it, and take off all the skin and fat; take likewise two dozen of fowl or chickens feet, washed clean, and chopped to pieces; put all into a large stoving-pot, with three gallons of soft water, and let it stove gently, till the meat is so tender as to separate. You must keep your pot tight covered, and a constant fire during the time of its stoving; in about seven or eight hours, try your jelly in a cup, and when quite cold, if it so stiff as that you can cut it with a knife, take it off, and strain it through a sieve, and take off all the fat, and scum first with a spoon, and then with a filtering paper: Provide china cups, and fill them with the clear jelly; set them in a gravy pan, or a large stew-pan of boiling water over a stove; in this water boil your jelly in the cups, till it is as thick as glue. After which, let them stand in the water till they are quite cold: Before you turn them out of your cups, run the edge of a knife round to loosen them; then turn them upon a piece of new flannel, which will draw out all the moisture gradually. Turn them every six or eight hours, till they are perfectly dry, and like a piece of glue; keep them in as dry a place as you can, and in a little time they will be so hard, that you may carry them in your pocket, without the least inconvenience. When you want to use it, take a piece about the bigness of a walnut, and pour a pint of


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boiling water on it, stirring it till it is dissolved; season it with salt to your taste, and you will have a bason of strong broth.
If you want a dish of soup, boil vermicelli in water; then to a cake of your soup, pour a pint of water, so that four cakes will make two quarts; when it is thoroughly melted, set it over the fire just to simmer; pour it into the dish, put in thin slices of bread hardened before the fire, and the vermicelli upon them. Thus you have a dish of soup in about half an hour. Whilst this is doing, you may have any thing dressing to follow, which will not only be a good addition to your dinner, but saving time.

Note. Season it to your palate, as there is no salt or seasoning in the preparation.

To make a Brown Portable Soup.

Take a large leg of beef, bone it, and take off the skin, and what fat you can; put it into a stoving pot, with a tight cover; put to it about four gallons of soft water, with six anchovies, half an ounce of mace, a few cloves, half an ounce of whole white pepper, three onions cut in two, a bunch of thyme, sweet marjoram and parsley, with the bottom crust of a two-penny loaf that is well baked; cover it very close, and let it have a constant fire to do leisurely for seven or eight hours; then stir it very well together, to make the meat separate; cover it close again, and in an hour try


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your broth in a cup, to see if it will glutinate; if it does, take it off, and strain it through a canvass jelly bag into a clean pan; then have China or well glazed earthen cups, and fill them with the clear jelly; put them into a broad gravy pan, or stew-pan, with boiling water; set in the cups, and let them boil in that till they are perfectly glue. When they are almost cold, run a knife round them, and turn them upon a piece of new flannel, to draw out all the moisture; in six or seven hours turn them, and do so till they are perfectly hard and dry; put them into stone jars, and keep them in a dry place.

This is very good for soups, sauces, and gravies. When you intend to make it into soup, shred and wash very clean what herbs you have to enrich it, as celery, endive, chervil, leeks, lettuce, or indeed what herbs you can get; boil them in water till they are tender, strain them off, and with that water dissolve what quantity of portable soup you please, according to the strength you would have it. If you are where you can get it, fry a French roll, and put it in the middle of your dish, moistened first with some of your soup; and when your cakes are thoroughly melted, put your herbs to it, and set it over the fire till it is just at boiling; then dish it up, and send it to table.

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To make Vermacelli Soup.

Take two quarts of strong veal broth, put it into a clean sauce-pan, with a piece of bacon stuck with cloves, and half an ounce of butter rolled in flour; then take a small fowl trussed to boil, break the breast bone, and put it into your soup; stove it close, and let it stew three quarters of an hour: take about two ounces of vermacelli, and put to it some of the broth; set it over the fire till it is quite tender. When your soup is ready, take out your bacon, skim your soup as soon as possible, then pour it on the fowl, and lay your vermacelli all over it; cut some French bread thin, put into your soup, and send it to table.

If you choose it, you may make your soup with a knuckle of veal, and send a handsome piece of it in the middle of the dish, instead of the fowl.

To make Soup Lorrain.

Have ready a strong veal broth that is white, and clean scummed from all fat; blanch a pound of almonds, beat them in a mortar, with a little water, to prevent their oiling, and the yolks of four poached eggs, the lean part of the legs, and all the white part of a roasted fowl; pound all together as fine as possible; then take three parts of the veal broth, put it into a clean stew-pan, put your ingredients in, and mix them well together;


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chip in the crust of two French rolls well rasped; boil all together over a stove, or a clear fire. Take a French roll, cut a piece out of the top, and take out all the crum; mince the white part of a roasted fowl very fine, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little beaten mace; put in about an ounce of butter, and moisten it with two spoonfuls of your soup strained to it; set it over the stove to be thorough hot: Cut some French rolls in slices, and set them before the fire to crisp; then strain off your soup through a tammy or a lawn strainer, into another clean stew-pot; let it stew till it is as thick as cream; then have your dish ready; put in some of your crisp bread; fill your roll with the mince, and lay on the top as close as possible; put it in the middle of the dish, and pour a ladleful of your soup over it; put in your bread first, then pour in the soup, till the dish is full. Garnish with petty patties; or make a rim for your dish, and garnish with lemon raced.

If you please, you may send a chicken boned in the middle, instead of the roll;
or you may send it to table with only crisp bread.

To make a sorrel Soup with Eggs.

Take the chump end of a loin of mutton, and part of a knuckle of veal, to make your stock with; season it with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs; boil it till it is as rich as you would have it; strain it off, and put it into a clean sauce pan: Put


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in a young fowl, cover it over, and stove it; then take three or four large handfuls of sorrel washed clean; chop it grosly, fry it in butter, put it to your soup, and let it boil till your fowl is thoroughly done; scum it clean, and send it to table with the fowl in the middle, and six poached eggs placed round about it. Garnish the dish with sippets, and stewed sorrel.

To make Asparagus Soup.

Take five or six pounds of lean beef cut in lumps, and rolled in flour; put it into your stew-pan, with two or three slices of fat bacon at the bottom; then put it over a slow fire, and cover it close, stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn: then put it in two quarts of water and half a pint of ale. Cover it close, and let it stew gently for an hour, with some whole pepper, and salt to your mind; then strain off the liquor, and take off the fat; put in the leaves of white beets, some spinach, some cabbage, lettuce, a little mint, some sorrel, and a little sweet marjoram powdered; let these boil up in your liquor, then put in the green tops of asparagus cut small, and let them boil till all is tender. Serve it up hot, with a French roll in the middle.

> Rich Soups in Lent, or for Fast Days.

To make a Craw Fish Soup.

Cleanse them, and boil them in water, salt, and spice: pull off their feet and tails, and


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fry them; break the rest of them in a stone mortar, season them with savory spice, and an onion, a hard egg, grated bread, and sweet herbs boiled in good table beer; strain it, and put to it scalded chopped parsley, and French rolls; then put in the fried craw fish, with a few mushrooms. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon, and the feet and tail of a craw fish.

To make Oyster Soup.

Have ready a good fish stock, then take two quarts of oysters without the beards; bray the hard part in a mortar, with the yolks of ten hard eggs. Set what quantity of fish stock you shall want over the fire with your oysters; season it with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. When it boils, put in the eggs, and let it boil till it is as thick as cream. Dish it up with bread cut in dice.

To make an Eel Soup.

Take eels according to the quantity of soup you would make; a pound of eels will make a pint of soup; so to every pound of eels put a quart of water, a crust of bread, two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, an onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs; cover them close, and let them boil till half the liquor is wasted; then strain it, toast some bread, and cut it small, lay the bread in the dish, and pour in your soup. If you have a stew hole, set the dish over it for a minute,


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and send it to table. If you find your soup not rich enough, you must let it boil till it is as strong as you would have it, and add a piece of carrot to brown it.

To make a brown Soup.

Into a clean sauce-pan, put three quarts, or more, of water, with raspings sufficient to thicken it, two or three onions cut across, two or three cloves, some whole pepper, and a little salt; cover it close, and let it boil about an hour and a half, then strain it through a sieve; have celery, carrots, endive, lettuce, spinach, and what other herbs you like, not cut too small, and fry them in butter; take a clean stew-pan, that is large enough for your ingredients, put in a good piece of butter, dust in flour, and keep it stirring till it is of a fine brown; then pour in your herbs and soup, boil it till the herbs are tender, and the soup of a proper thickness. Have bread cut in dice, and fried brown; pour your soup into the dish, put some of the bread into the soup, the rest in a plate, and serve it up.

To make a White Soup.

Put in a clean sauce-pan two or three quarts of water, the crumb of a two-penny loaf, with a bundle of herbs, some whole pepper, two or three cloves, an onion or two cut across, and a little salt: let it boil covered till it is quite smooth; take celery, endive, and lettuce only the white parts, cut them in


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pieces, not two small, and boil them till they are very tender, strain your soup off into a clean stew-pan; put your herbs in, with a good piece of butter stirred in it till the butter is melted, and let it boil for some time, till it is very smooth. If any scum arises, take it off very clean: soak a small French roll, nicely rasped, in some of the soup; put it in the middle of the dish, pour in your soup, and send it to table.

To make onion Soup.

First, put a tea-kettle of water on to boil, then slice six Spanish onions, or some of the largest onions you have got; flour them pretty well, then put them into a stew-pan that will hold about three quarts, fry them in butter till they are of a fine brown, but not burnt: pour in boiling water sufficient to fill the soup dish you intend; let it boil, and take half a pound of butter rolled in flour, break it in, and keep it stirring till your butter is melted: as it boils, scum it very well, and put in a little pepper and salt; cut a French roll into slices, and set it before the fire to crisp; poach seven or eight eggs very nicely; cut off all the rugged part of the whites, drain the water from them, and lay them upon every slice of roll; pour your soup into the dish, and put the bread and eggs carefully into the dish with a skimmer. If you have any spinach boiled, lay a leaf between every piece of roll, and send it to table.

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If you have any Parmesan cheese, scrape about an ounce very fine, and put it in when you pour on your boiling water; it gives it a very high flavour, and is not to be perceived by the taste what it is.

To make a rice Soup.

To two quarts of water, put three quarters of a pound of rice, clean picked and washed, with a stick of cinnamon; let it be covered very close, and simmer till your rice is tender; take out the cinnamon, and grate half a nutmeg; beat up the yolks of four eggs, and strain them to half a pint of white wine, and as much pounded sugar as will make it palatable, put this to your soup, and stir it very well together: set it over the fire, stirring it till it boils, and is of a good thickness; then send it to table.

To make Turnip Soup.

Pare a bunch of Turnips (save out three or four) put them into a gallon of water, with half an ounce of white pepper, an onion stuck with cloves, three blades of mace, half a nutmeg bruised, a good bunch of sweet herbs, and a large crust of bread. Boil them an hour and a half, then pass them through a sieve; clean a bunch of celery, cut it small, and put it into your turnips and liquor, with two of the turnips you saved, and two young carrots cut in dice; cover it close, and let it stew; then cut two turnips and carrots in


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dice, flour them, and fry them brown in butter, with two large onions cut thin, and fried likewise, put them all into your soup, with some vermacelli; let it boil softly, till your celery is tender, and your soup is good. Season it with salt to your palate.

To make Soup Meagre.

Take a bunch of celery washed clean, and cut in pieces, a large handful of spinach, two cabbage lettuces, and some parsley; wash all very clean, and shred them small; then take a large clean stew-pan, put in about half a pound of butter, and when it is quite hot, slice four large onions very thin, and put into your butter; stir them well together for two or three minutes; then put in the rest of your herbs; shake all well together for near twenty minutes; dust in some flour, and stir them together; pour in two quarts of boiling water; season with pepper, salt, and beaten mace: Chip a handful of crust of bread, and put in; boil it half an hour, then beat up the yolks of three eggs in a spoonful of vinegar: pour it in, stir it for two or three minutes, and then send it to table.

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> CHAP. IX.
OF FRICASEES.

To fricasee Neats Tongues.

BOIL them tender, peel them, cut them into thin slices, and fry them in fresh butter; then pour out the butter; put in as much gravy as will be wanted for sauce, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, some pepper and salt, and a blade or two of mace; simmer all together for half an hour. Then take out the tongue, strain the gravy, put it with the tongue in the stew-pan again, beat up the yolks of two eggs, with a glass of white wine, a little grated nutmeg, a piece of butter as big as a walnut rolled in flour; shake all together for four or five minutes; dish it up and send it to table.

To fricasee Ox Palates.

Put the palates upon the fire in cold water, and let them boil softly till they are very tender; then blanch and scrape them clean. Rub them all over with mace, nutmegs, cloves, pepper beaten fine, mixed with crumbs of bread. Put them into a stew-pan of hot butter, and fry them brown on both sides. Then, having poured off the fat, put as much beef or mutton gravy into a stew-pan as if


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required for sauce, and an anchovy, a little lemon juice, and salt to make it palatable, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. When these have simmered together a quarter of an hour, dish them up, and garnish with sliced lemon.

To fricasee Tripe.

Take the whitest and the thickest seam tripe, cut the white part in thin slices, and put it into a stew-pan, with a little white gravy, a spoonful of white wine, a little lemon-juice, and lemon-peel grated. Add to it the yolks of two or three eggs beat very well, with a little thick cream, shred parsley, and two or three chives. Let them all be shook together over a stove or slow fire, till the gravy becomes as thick as cream; but it must not boil for fear it should curdle. Pour all together into a dish laid with sippets. Garnish with sliced lemon and mushrooms.

To Fricasee a Calf's Head.

Take half a calf's head that is boiled tender, cut it into slices, and put it into a stew-pan with some good veal broth, season it with mace, pepper and salt, an artichoke bottom cut in dice, some force-meat balls first boiled, morels and truffles; let these boil together for a quarter of an hour; scum it clean; beat up the yolks of two eggs in a gill of cream, put this in, and shake it round till it is ready to boil; squeeze in a little lemon, and serve it up. Garnish with lemon.

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To fricasee Calf's Feet.

Dress the Calf's feet, boil them as you would do for eating, take out the long bones, cut them in two, and put them into a stew-pan, with a little white gravy, and a spoonful or two of white wine, take the yolks of two or three eggs, two or three spoonfuls of cream, grate in a little nutmeg and salt, and shake all together with a lump of butter. Garnish your dish with slices of lemon and currants, and serve it up.

To fricasee Veal Sweetbreads.

Cut the sweet breads in thin slices, the lengthway. Dip them in eggs. Season them with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Fry them of a light brown: then put them into a stew-pan with a sufficient quantity of brown gravy, and a spoonful of lemon-juice. Thicken it with butter and flour, serve it up together, garnished with bits of toasted bacon and crisp parsley.

To fricasee Lamb brown.

Cut a hind quarter of lamb into thin slices; season them with pepper and salt, a little nutmeg, savory, marjoram, and lemon-thyme dried and powdered, (some add a shallot): then fry on the fire briskly; and afterwards toss the lamb up in strong gravy, a glass of red wine, a few oysters, some force-meat balls, two palates, a little burnt butter, and an egg or


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two, or a bit of butter rolled in flour to thicken it. Serve all up in one dish, garnished with sliced lemon.

To fricasee Lamb white.

Take a leg of lamb, half roast it; when it is cold cut it in slices, put it into a stew-pan with a little white gravy, a shallot shred fine, a little nutmeg, salt, and a few shred capers, let it boil over a stove till the lamb is enough; to thicken the sauce, take three spoonfuls of cream, the yolks of two eggs; a little shred parsley, and beat them well together; then put it into a stew-pan, and shake it till it is thick, but do not let it boil; if this do not make it thick, put in a little flour and butter, and so serve it up. Garnish your dish with mushrooms, oysters, and lemon.

To fricasee Lamb-stones and Sweetbreads.

Have ready some lamb-stones blanched, parboiled and sliced, and flour two or three sweetbreads; if very thick, cut them in two; the yolks of six hard eggs whole; a few pistachio nut kernels, and a few large oysters; fry all those of a fine brown, then pour away the butter and add a pint of drawn gravy, the lamb-stones, some asparagus tops of about an inch long, some grated nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, two shallots shred small, and a glass of white wine. Stew all these together for ten minutes, then add the yolks of six eggs beat very fine, with a little white wine, and a


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little mace; stir all together till it is of a fine thickness, and then dish it up. Garnish with lemon.

To fricasee Pigs Ears.

Take three or four pigs ears, clean and boil them very tender, cut them in small pieces the length of your finger, and fry them with butter till they are brown; put them into a stew-pan with a little brown gravy, a lump of butter, a spoonful of vinegar, and a little mustard and salt, thickened with flour. Take two or three pigs feet, and boil them very tender, fit for eating, then cut them in two, and take out the large bones; dip them in eggs, and strew over them a few bread crumbs; season them with pepper and salt. Then either fry or boil them, and lay them in the middle of the dish with the pig ears.

To fricasee Pigs Pettitoes.

Clean the pettitoes very well from hair, &c. split them in two down the middle; boil them with the liver, lights, and heart, till they are very tender, in half a pint of water or more, according to the quantity of the meat, with an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little whole pepper, and a blade of mace. But in five minutes take out the liver, lights, and heart, mince them very small, grate a little nutmeg over them and dredge them with flour gently. When the pettitoes or feet are quite


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tender, take them out, strain the liquor in which they were boiled, and then put all together into a saucepan, with a little salt, a bit of butter as big as a walnut, and either a spoonful of vinegar or the juice of half a small lemon. Shake the sauce-pan often, and after it has simmered five or six minutes and you laid some toasted sippets or slices of bread round the inside of the dish, lay the minced meat and sauce in the middle, and the split potatoes round it. Garnish with sliced lemon.

To fricasee a Hare.

Boil the hare with apples, onions, and parsley; when it is tender, shred it small, then put there to a pint of red wine, one nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and two or three anchovies; stir these together, with the yolks of twelve hard eggs shred small; when it is served up, put in as much melted butter as will make it moist; garnish the dish with some of the bones, and the whites of eggs boiled hard, and cut in halves.

To fricasee Rabbits White.

Half roast two young rabbits; then skin and cut them in pieces, using only the whitest parts; which you must put into a stew-pan, with a sufficient quantity of white gravy, a small anchovy, a little onion, shred mace, grated lemon-peel, and nutmeg grated; let it have one boil. Then take a little cream, the


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yolks of two eggs, a lump of butter, a little juice of lemon, and shred parsley; put them all together into a stew-pan, and shake them over the fire till they become as white as cream; but do not let the mixture boil, for it will curdle if it does. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon and pickle.

To fricasee Rabbits brown.

Cut the legs in three pieces, and the other parts about the same size. Beat them thin, and fry them in butter over a quick fire: when fried, put them into a stew-pan with a little gravy, a spoonful of catchup, and a little grated nutmeg. Shake it up with a little flour and butter, and garnish the dish with fried parsley, made very crisp.

To fricasee Chickens white.

Half roast the chickens, then having cut them up as for eating, skin them, and put them into a stew-pan with a little white gravy, the juice of a lemon, an anchovy for every chicken, with a sufficient quantity of mace and nutmeg grated, and then boil them. Take also the yolks of eggs, as much as necessary, a little sweet cream and shred parsley; then put them into a stew-pan with a lump of butter and a little salt. Shake them all the time they are over the fire, but do not let them boil, for that would make them curdle. Serve it up poured upon sippets, and garnish


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the dish with sliced lemon, or pickled mushrooms.

To fricasee Chicken brown.

Cut up the chickens raw, in the manner as you do for eating, and flat the pieces a little with a rolling-pin. Fry them of a light brown; afterwards put them into a stew-pan, with a sufficient quantity, but not too much gravy, a spoonful or two of white wine, to two or three chickens, and a little nutmeg and salt. Thicken it up with flour and butter. Garnish with sippets within the dish, and with crisp parsley on the rim.

To fricasee Pigeons.

Quarter each pigeon, and fry them. Take some green pease, and fry them also till they be like to burst. Then pour boiling water upon them, and season the liquor with pepper, salt, onions, garlic, parsley, and vinegar. Thicken with yolks of eggs.

To fricasee Cod.

Take the zounds, blanch them, then make them very clean, and cut them into little pieces. If they are dried zounds, you must first boil them tender. Get some of the roes, blanch them and wash them clean, cut them into round pieces about an inch thick, with some of the livers, an equal quantity of each, to make a handsome dish, and a piece of cod of


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about a pound for the middle. Put them into a stew-pan, season them with a little beaten mace, grated nutmeg and salt, a few sweet herbs, an onion, and a quarter of a pint of fish broth or boiling water; cover them close, and let them stew a few minutes; then put in half a pint of red wine, a few oysters with the liquor strained, a piece of butter rolled in flour; shake the pan round, and let them stew softly till they are enough. Take out the sweet herbs and onion, and dish up. Garnish with lemon.

To fricasee Soals, Plaice, or Flounders.

Strip off the black skin of the fish, but not the white; then take out the bones, and cut the flesh into slices about two inches long; dip the slices in the yolks of eggs, and strew over them raspings of bread, then fry them in clarified butter, and when they are enough, put them on a plate, and set them by the fire till you have made the following sauce:

Take the bones of the fish, boil them up with water, put in some anchovy and sweet herbs, such as thyme and parsley, and add a little pepper, with cloves and mace. When these have boiled together some time, take the butter in which the fish was fried, put it into a pan over the fire, shake flour into it, and keep it stirring while the flour is shaking in; then strain the liquor into it, in which the fish bones, herbs, and spice were boiled,


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and boil it together till it is very thick, adding lemon juice to your taste. Put your fish into a dish, and pour the sauce over it: serve it up garnished with slices of lemon, and fried parsley.

N. B. This dish may take place on any part of the table, either in the first or second course.

To fricasee Tench white.

Having cleaned your tench very well, cut off their heads, slit them in two, and if large, cut each half in three pieces; if small, in two; melt some butter in a stew-pan, and put in your tench; dust in some flour, pour in some boiling water, and a few mushrooms, and season it with salt, pepper, and a bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion stuck with cloves: when this boils, pour in a pint of white wine boiling hot, let it stew till sufficiently wasted: take out the flesh, and strain the liquor, saving the mushrooms, bind your fricasee with the yolks of three or four eggs beat up with a little verjuice, some parsley chopped fine, and a little nutmeg grated; stir it all the time it boils, scum it very clean, pour your sauce over the fish, and send it to table.

To fricasee Tench brown.

Prepare your tench as in the other receipts, put some butter and flour into a stew-pan


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and brown it; then put in the tench with the same seasoning you did for your white fricasee; when you have tossed them up, moisten them with a little fish broth; boil a pint of white wine and put to your fricasee, stew it till enough, and properly wasted; then take the fish up, strain the liquor, bind it with a brown cullis, and serve it up. If asparagus or artichokes are in season, you may boil these, and add them to your fricasee.

To fricasee Eggs white.

Boil eight or ten eggs; take off the shells, cut some in halves, and some in quarters; have ready half a pint of cream, a good piece of butter, a little nutmeg, a glass of white wine, and a spoonful of chopped parsley; stir all together over a clear fire till it is thick and smooth; lay your