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Title: Henriette Davidis' Practical Cook Book Compiled For The United States From The Thirty-Fifth German Edition.
Author: Davidis, Henriette
Publisher: Milwaukee, Wis.: C. N. Caspar, Book Emporium and H. H. Zahn & Co., Printers & Publishers.

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> A.--Miscellaneous Receipts.

1. To clarify Sugar. Dip the sugar in cold water, put it in a medium sized kettle (preferably of brass or nickel), allowing it to dissolve over a slow fire, skimming off the broth until it is clear. In order to clarify it particularly quick and clear, add the beaten white of an egg, which will absorb the froth.

2. Frosting. To obtain very white frosting, which is essential for most puddings and cakes, the freshest whites of eggs are necessary. Beat in a large platter, in a cool place, until it is thick and stiff enough to turn, which will usually take from 5--10 minutes. A few drops of lemon juice added to the whites of the eggs will aid materially to stiffen the frosting. The frosting should be used immediately when done, otherwise it is apt to turn watery.

If the frosting is to be made into little balls for milk or beer soups, or is to be used for ices or cakes, a small quantity of pulverized sugar should be beaten, with it.

3. Flour rubbed in Butter. Cook a piece of butter in an iron kettle, add a tablespoonful of flour and stir until it commences to curl and bubble. It must be well done,but only lightly yellow in color; if water, bouillon, or other liquid is stirred up with it, these should be cold, because then it will remain nice and smooth. If the floured butter is to be used in meat soups, stews, ragouts, etc., it can be added to the dish while cooking, after the latter has been skimmed, because it dissolves completely when cooked for any length of time.

4. Browned Flour. Stir a good sized piece of butter in a kettle until it commences to brown, add flour, stirring constantly until it is nicely browned, being


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careful not to scorch. Flour can be browned without butter, and preserved for future use. Put it into a small kettle and place over a slow fire, and stir constantly until lightly browned. A better process is to put the flour into a baking pan, and to brown in the oven.

5. Cleaning and scalding Rice. Rice should be carefullv picked over, rubbed between the hands in water and then put on the fire in cold water, and before it commences to boil pour it into a sieve. This process is particularly essential if the rice is to be used in the sickroom, or for milk-dishes, because the acids sometimes contained in the rice, causing the milk to curdle, are thereby removed.

6. To prepare Sago. Sago should also be carefully picked over, washed, placed on the fire in cold water, and after warming; up, poured into a sieve. After repeating this once it is ready for use.

7. Browned Butter. Put the butter into an iron kettle on a slow fire and stir until brown; it dissolves at first, and then slowly commences to brown.

Whatever is intended to be browned, must be put into the butter after the latter is browned, otherwise the color will not be nice. Care must be taken, however, to prevent even the slightest scorching.

8. Clarified or Melted Butter, designed principally for Crullers, Doughnuts, Fritters, etc. Butter for this purpose must be clarified; if not, it will bubble and run over when the crullers, etc., are put into it. Put it into a medium sized iron kettle over a slow fire until it is light and clear, which will take about two hours. The froth not dipped from the top, partly settles at the bottom. As soon as the cooking sould is not longer heard, the butter is heated to the required degree; remove it for the fire, let it stand about ten minutes, take off the remaining froth and pour ther clear butter into a perfectly clean stone jar, taking care to prevent any of the sediment being poured with it. After it is cool cover it with paper, put on this a layer of salt about one-half inch deep, and set it aside, uncovered, in a cool, airy place.

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Butter clarified in the above manner is the very best for doughnuts and millers, and for general cooking purposes it is unexcelled.

9. Crab Butter. Take about 20 crabs and stir them in clear water with a small whisk until they are perfectly clean, put on the fire and cook for 5 minutes. Pick the meat from the shells, put all the shells with about 6 tablespoonfuls of butter into a mortar and pound, but not too fine; put on the fire, stirring occasionally until the mass turns to a red color and commences to raise, then add one quart of water, boil and strain into a deep dish through a fine sieve; after cooling, the red butter is ready for use; the remaining liquor can be used for soups, particularly so if the crabs are boiled in beef broth, or extract of beef has been added to the water.

The tails of the crabs can be utilized in the soup or in a stew.

10. Anchovy Butter. Stir 1 pound of good butter to a froth, freshen 1 pound of anchovies (see No. 31), let them remain in fresh water 10-15 minutes to sweeten; chop them up fine, press the mass through a sieve, put into a small stone jar, cover, and keep in a cool place.

Anchovy Butter is spread on toasted wheat bread, and used in gravies, stews, etc. When put to the latter use it should be added just before serving, because it must not cook.

11. Parsley Butter. Bring a quantity of clarified butter to a boil, stir into it a good proportion of parsley and set aside for winter use.

12. Epicurean Butter. This is used to spread on toast. 4 boned anchovies, 4 small pickles, a trifle of chives and tarragon should be chopped very fine, pass the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs through a sieve, mix with 4 tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, and then put the entire mass through a sieve.

13. Fairy Butter. An English receipt. The yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 2 spoonfuls of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of orangeflower water and 4 tablesponfuls of finest unsalted butter, well mixed and passed through a


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sieve. This butter is used to spread on cakes. Instead of the sugar and orangeflower water 1/4 pound of crushed hazelnuts or grated almonds can be used, with the addition of a small quantity of lemon juice.

14. Fried Bread for Soupls and Dumplings. (Croutons.) Put the butter in the fire, cut the bread into small pieces, or small figures if preferred, stir in the butter until it becomes yellow. Do not allow it to become hard.

15. Eggs in Soups, Gravies and Stews. Eggs are not added to dishes of this kind until they are cooked and taken from the fire. It is done in the following manner: The yolks, which must be fresh are first stirred with a little cold water, then add some of the boiling soup or gravy, increasing gradually and continuing the stirring, then pour into the hot dish, constantly stirring, which will prevent the eggs from curdling. Whole eggs--the yolks and whites together--can be whipped up with a small quantity of water and some of the hot soup added, keeping up a continual stirring. A whole egg is equal to two yolks of eggs for the above purpose and more nutritious, but does not taste quite as well as the clear yolks of eggs, and should, therefore, not be used for fine dishes.

16. An excellent Goose Oil, which will remain sweet for a long time. The fat is first set aside for a day in a cool place in water and the latter changed three or four times. Then cut up the fat, add a small quantity of salt, put on the fire and slowly try it out, being careful to stir frequently. When the oil is quite clear and the remaining pieces of a light yellow color, the former is poured through a strainer into a stone jar and set aside for about a week. Then take the oil out of the jar, leaving the sediment and jelly. Put the oil on the fire again, adding a few sour apples pared and quartered, cook until the apples are soft and commence to roast, then again pour the oil through a fine strainer into the jar and the next day cover with paper perforated with a needle. If it is desired that the oil be of a firmer consistency, add a small quantity of tried leaf lard.

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17. An excellent Way to prepare Kidney Suet. The firmer the suet, the better and richer it is. Cut it up into medium sized pieces, put it into fresh water, and let it stand until the next day, changing the water once during that time. Then chop the suet up fine, and take a small quantity of milk--about a small cupful to a pound of suet--cook it in an open kettle over a slow fire, straining frequently until the suet appears perfectly clear; it then does not need straining, but can at once be filled into a stone jar. The suet may also be cut into small cubes, then, after being tried out, it can be passed through a sieve; this method is preferable where the suet is to be used for fine dishes. If milk is added while trying the suet, it must not be stirred, and the kettle must not be placed directly on the fire. Should the suet be scorched it will be worthless, because it will thereby acquire a bitter taste. The cracklings, which at first should be loosened from the bottom of the kettle with an iron spoon, must not have a deeper color than light brown, and the clear suet, which has a sweet odor, like butter, is passed through a strainer. The cracklings when chopped with boiled beef, make excellent meat balls.

18. To Try Fat. Although it may seem that any directions how to try fat are unnecessary here, yet the fact is, it is too often very carelessly done.

The thick and firm pieces are the best for the purpose. Cut the fat into small cubes, as nearly alike in size as possible. Put them into an iron kettle or similar utensil, set over a medium fire, stir frequently until the pieces are yellow and crisp. This will prevent the fat from evaporating or receiving a scorchy taste, which is unavoidable if you have a very hot fire. Ham fat is well adapted for trying out in this manner, but the smoked outer crust must be carefully cut away.

19. Clear Broth for White Stew. To make a stew for 12 persons take 3 pounds of lean beef cut into small pieces, cover with water and put on the fire, skim carefully and add at once 1/2 of a celery root, 1 carrot, 1 parsley root, 2 onions, all cut into pieces, no salt, cover and cook for 2 hours. Pour through a sieve, set aside, and when it is to be used for the stew, take off the fat and pour carefully from the settlings.

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20. Brown Broth for Brown Ragout. For 12 persons take 1/4 pound of pork fat cut into slices, put it into an enameled kettle, add to this 1/4 pound of raw ham (remnants of ham can also be used) and 2 pounds of beef, both cut into slices, also 2 onions, 2 bay leaves, 1 carrot, 1/2 of a celery root, 1 parsley root and whole spices. If you have any remnants of various kinds of raw meats they can be substituted for the beef. Put on a slow fire, cover and let it simmer for 1/2 hour. It will be of advantage if it turns brown without scorching. Then add a dash of boiling water and repeat this several times if the meat should adhere to the kettle. When brown enough, add sufficient boiling; water to make the required amount of ragout. Salt is not used but is put into the finished ragout If the meats are well cooked after the elapse of 1 or 2 hours, the broth is passed through a sieve and the fat and settlings removed. Instead of the beef, 2 teaspoonfuls of extract of beef can be used.

21. To give Brown Soups, Ragouts and Sauces a good Color. Put 1 tablespoonful of sugar into a saucepan, over the fire, and stir constantly until it has turned to a dark brown color. Immediately add 1 small cupful of water, take from the stove, stir, set it aside for coloring purposes in a closed glass receptacle. 1 teawpoonful is sufficient to give a large cupful of broth a nice yellow color.

An onion nicely browned in ashes, peeled, and then boiled with the soup after the latter has been skimmed, will give it a nice color.

22. Liver Force Meats. To 1/2 pound of tender veal, cut into cubes, add a few tablespoonfuls of finely chopped mushrooms, some parsley, half of a bay leaf, some salt, a little pepper and nutmeg, and 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of butter; let it cook slowly about 20 minutes. Take the livers of 10 or 12 fowls stiffened in beef broth or weak brine, put together in a mortar and pound until fine.

Instead of mushrooms, truffles rubbed in butter can be used; the liver of a goose or calf can be substituted for fowl liver, and finely chopped anchovies, to suit the taste, may be added. If goose lives is taken


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it can be used for making goose liver patties, or for goose dressing.

23. Beef Force Meat. 1/2 pound of lean beef and a little over 2 ounces of pork fat or kidney suet chopped fine, add salt, lemon peel, mace, a small piece of melted, yellow-browned butter, a trifle over 2 ounces of wheat bread soaked in cold water and then pressed, and 2 eggs, the white beaten to a broth. Stir well together, and it will make good force meat.

24. Veal Force Meat for Soup Dumplings. 1/2 pound of veal chopped with 1 ounce of marrow fat or kidney suet, 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, salt, 2 ounces of wheat bread without any crust, which have been soaked in cold water and well pressed, and 2 eggs, the whites of which have been beaten. Stir well together.

25. Poultry Force Meat. After removing the skin from the breast of any kind of a fowl, it (the breast) should be pounded fine and passed through a sieve. Add 4 tablespoonfuls of unsalted butter to 1 pound of pounded meat and stir to a froth. Add the yolks of 4 eggs, nutmeg, a tablespoonful of chopped anchovies, 3 ounces of soaked wheat bread, which have been made into a paste on the fire, and salt; mix well together with the sifted meat. Instead of the creamery butter, crab butter (see No. 9), can be used, and the sifted meat need also be mixed only with the white of 1 egg and 1 large cupful of sweet cream, and all other ingredients be omitted. When prepared in this manner it makes good force meat for meat pies.

26. Fish Force Meat. Take 1 pound of fish (the best are pickerel or carp), cleaned and boned, 1/4 pound of fresh pork fat, 2 stirred eggs, 1 small onion baked in butter, 1 anchovy, some finely chopped parsley, salt, ground white pepper and mace. After chopping this all up very finely, soak about 2 ounces of stale wheat bread in cold water, press it out well, stir into a dough on the fire with about 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of butter, then mix well with 1 or 2 raw eggs.

27. Force Meat Dressing for about 12 Pigeons or a Breast of Veal. Stir about 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of


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butter until soft, add the yolks of 3 eggs, some mace or lemon peel, salt, about 8 ounces of grated wheat bread, 1 large cupful of milk or cream, and the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth. One-third of this quantity mixed with some finely chopped parsley, is sufficient dressing for four pigeons. If desired, the finely chopped heart and liver of the pigeons may be added; in this case, however, more milk or cream will be needed.

28 Raisin Force Meat. Stir about 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of butter until soft and add the yolks of 3 eggs, some mace or grated lemon peel, about 1/2 pound of stale grated wheat bread, 3 tablespoonfuls of either sour or sweet cream, salt, 1/4 pound of small raisins, about 2 teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar mixed with cinnamon. This is sufficient dressing for a turkey, 8 pigeons or 6 spring chickens.

29. Almond Force Meat. Take a coffeecupful of almonds and cover them with boiling water; as soon as the skins can be easily removed, take them out of the water, skin them, put in a mortar (a small quantity at a time), add a trifle of water and pound until very fine. Mix the pounded almonds with 3 tablespoonfuls of butter stirred until soft, the yolks of 3 eggs, mace and 2 coffeecupfuls of grated stale wheat bread. After stirring this all well together with a quantity of good cream, mix with the beaten whites of 2 eggs. This is sufficient dressing for a duck or 2 pigeons.

30. Cream of Anchovy for Meat Patties or Toast.Fresh butter and some flour lightly browned together, add sweet cream, finely chopped onions and lemon juice; cook thoroughly. Into this stir some finely chopped anchovies and the yolks of a few eggs, and then cook again.

31. How Anchovies should be prepared. Rinse the anchovies in water two or three times to clear them of salt, then let them stand in fresh water 10-15 minutes longer. Anchovies of an inferior quality must remain in the water a longer time, perhaps several hours. If good anchovies are laid in milk and the latter is frequently changed, they acquire a most delicious taste.

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After the anchovies have been watered, pick off the fins from the back with the fingers, take thorn by the tail and pull them into halves, removing the spine and the rear fin. Then put the anchovies into a strainer and drain. They can be served with a dressing of olive oil and wine vinegar, or finely chopped onions, vinegar, olive oil and pepper. The best method of serving anchovies is to put them on a small platter in the form of a star, filling the spaces with capers, small onions, finely chopped herbs, and the grated yolks of eggs. The flesh of good anchovies is white and light; those of inferior quality are hard and dry and of a yellowish red color.

32. To prepare Celery and Parsnips for Soups, etc. Celery roots must be washed, peeled and cut into 4-8 pieces, the young unopened leaves need not be removed. Parsley roots must be washed, scraped and cut into pieces about 2 inches long, and split if very thick. Both are used for beef soups, the latter for chicken and veal soups only.

Parsley heads must be rinsed, the large heads cut away, take them in a bunch and cut them on a chopping board as finely as possible with a sharp knife. A little practice will enable one to cut parsley as fine in this way, as though it were chopped.

33. Truffles. Truffles must also be soaked from 1-1 1/2 hours, they are then thoroughly cleaned, preferably with a brush, then cooked in a rich beef broth or claret; cut into pieces and serve in gravies.

34. Mushrooms. Remove the outer skin from the upper part of the stalk of the mushroom, cutting away the small leaves clustering under the head. Then wash in cold water, cut them up, put them in butter and on the fire, cook them rapidly in their own liquor and put them into the stew as they come from the kettle. They become hard if cooked too long.

Dried mushrooms must be soaked in water about 1 hour; should they happen to be of a brownish hue, previously boiling them will take out this color. Press them until dry, and add them to the stew or ragout when it is ready to serve.

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35. To prepare Veal Sweetbreads for Stews and Gravies. Put the sweetbreads on the fire in cold water; as soon as hot pour off the water and renew, repeating several times until the sweetbreads are white. Then put them in cold water, take the skin from the longer pieces and cut off the fleshy parts from the others, cut the sweetbreads into cubes, and then cook in the stew for about 10 minutes.

36. Pistachios. Put them on the fire in cold water, let them come to a boil, hull them, lay them into cold water and leave until wanted for use. When used in stews they must cook not less than 30 minutes.

37. Crabs with Dressing. (Devilled Crabs.) Before cooking the crabs, stir them in clear water with a small whisk until they are perfectly clean. Put them into boiling water with vinegar and salt and cook until they are done. Break off the tails, pick out the shells, and then fill with force meats (see No. 23 or 27). The crab shells filled with dressing are then cooked or baked in the stew far about 15 minutes, and, with the tails, added to the stew when the latter is served.

38. To scald Onions. Peel the onions, then pour boiling water over them and after standing for about 8-10 minutes, dip in cold water and dry with a cloth. Scalded onions should always be used in cooking, because scalding them removes everything that is usually considered unpleasant in taste about this vegetable, and makes it very palatable.

39. Chestnuts prepared for various cooking purposes. If chestnuts are to be used in a stew or as a dressing for poultry, put the kernels into boiling water long enough to permit the removal of the hulls the same as with almonds, and then rinse them in cold water. Put them into an enameled kettle with the addition of some water, butter and a small piece of sugar. Cover tightly and simmer slowly until done. In this way the chesnuts will be white, tender and not crumbly.

Chestnuts as an addition to cabbage are prepared in the same the manner. They can be either stirred into the cabbage before the latter is served, or be brought to the table in a separate dish.

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Chestnuts for dessert or tea with bread and butter have their shells split and are either roasted in a coffee roaster or an iron kettle--adding a small handful of salt to a pound of chestnuts--and are roasted until soft and tender, which will take from 1/2-3/4 of an hour; be careful to stir or shake them frequently.

Before serving the chestnuts rub them in a coarse cloth; they should be quite hot when put on the table.

40. Spice Extract for Stews. Cover the kernels of 60 sound walnuts with hot water for a few minutes, rub with a cloth to hull them, and when they are dry put them in layers into a stone jar with the following spices which have first been well ground together: 1/2 ounce of mace, some cloves (or, if preferred, garlic), ginger, 1 ounce of mustard seed, a pinch of whole white pepper, a piece of grated horse-radish, a handful of salt, 6 or 8 bay leaves, then add 1 quart of good wine vinegar well boiled. After the mixture has cooled, cover the jar, set it outside in the air, and after 2 or 3 weeks the extract can be filled into bottles which must be well corked.

The spices retain strength enough for another filling of boiled vinegar which has been cooled. 2 teaspoonfuls of this extract are sufficient for a stew for 6 persons.

41. Dill in Vinegar for pickling purposes. Dill is a favorite aromatic plant and is much used with pickles in vinegar. Dill is at its best immediately after the blossoming time, but very often when wanted for use, it is no longer green; for this reason it would be well to cut the dill when the heads are still fresh and green, and preserve them in a large glass jar covered with vinegar until they are wanted for use.

42. Pepper, Nutmeg, Cloves and Mace should be ground when needed and not before, because they otherwise lose a large percentage of their aromatic strength and flavor.

43. Mustard. As a usual thing, prepared mustards are of a very inferior quality, and it is advisable, therefore, to prepare them oneself. Take black and yellow mustard flour in equal parts, and to each 1/4 pound add 1 heaping teaspoonful of white sugar, a pinch of ground cloves, 1/4 teaspoonful of allspice, and enough white wine vinegar and white wine in equal parts to make a moderately


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stiff paste. When done fill into small wide-mouthed bottles, cork and let stand one week before using.

44. Almond Paste. Shell the nuts, pour boiling water over them and let them stand a few minutes. Then remove the skins, which will slip off easily, pound the almonds to the finest paste, moistening them occasionally with either water, the whites of eggs or arrac, as the receipt may require. Pounded dry makes the almonds oily. A stone or porcelain mortar is the best.

45. To wash Currants. After picking the currants over put them into a sieve, place this in a deep pan containing lukewarm water, and rub hard between the hands. This loosens the small stems which will sink into the water; the latter must be renewed several times. Before putting them into cakes, currants and raisins must be dried.

46. To clean and stone Raisins. Remove the stems, pick them over carefully, rinse in lukewarm water, then dry and stone them. Large raisins may be cut into pieces before using.

47. Points about Lemons and how to keep them. There being so many lemons with a bitter taste put on the market, it is better to test them before use, which is particularly necessary when lemons are to be put into jeies, creams, blanc manges, or used for soups and beverages. Do not neglect to wash and dry the lemons before using them, and to remove the seeds and the white inner skin, which also imparts a bitter taste.

To keep lemons, they should be wrapped in tissue paper and laid in a cool place where there is a draft.

To keep lemon peel fresh, grate it on sugar, take off the yellow sugar very carefully, and preserve this lemon sugar in a widemouthed bottle well corked. As a substitute for the pure lemon juice, the extract of lemon can be used, which usually gives satisfaction.

48. The Use and Preservation of Orange peel. Orange peel can in many cases be substituted for lemon peel; it gives a very nice flavor to most sauces. In order to keep well for a long time, peel the orange thinly with a sharp knife, chop the peel very fine, mix with 2 tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar, keep in a well corked bottle.

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> B. Soups.

> I. MEAT SOUPS.

1. General Directions for cooking Soup Stock. The kettle in which the soup is cooked should be used for this purpose exclusively and be kept perfectly clean. The best are made of heavy tin or enameled ware, and have a tightly fitting cover.

Dried peas, etc., can be softened by adding 1/2 to 1 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda (or saleratus) while they are cooking; it may be well to state, however, that this does not improve their flavor. The meat for soup stock must be fresh. The shinbone is generally used, but the joint and the neck or "stinking-piece," as the butchers call it, contains more of the substance that you wish to extract, and makes a stronger and more nutritious soup than any other part of the animal. However, nearly every kind of meat, such as mutton, veal, game or poultry, will make good soups of varying excellence.

For invalids who may partake of easily digestible food only, soups made from poultry or veal are the best. The meat from young animals will not make so strong a soup as that from older.

Where a strong soup is wanted without reference to the juiciness of the meat, as in case of a dinner party where the soup-meat is not brought to the table, take a piece of the joint without bone or fats, and although this may, apparently, after having been used for the soup, be of little account, yet when chopped up with fat boiled ham or nice pork fat, it will make very palatable meat balls. If the meat is to be served after the soup,


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however, or as a side dish, it will be well to cut away all ragged pieces and then cut it up into smaller pieces, place it, covered with cold water, on the back of the stove for about 1 hour, bring to a boil and then add into the soup when the latter begins to boil; whatever a soup made in this manner lacks in strength, may be supplied by the addition of some extract of beef.

Meats for soups should be washed very slightly and must not be laid in water, as this would tend to lessen their strength. Whenever possible, do not wash the meat at all, in any event it must not be kept in the water too long. When the meat is put on the fire, good judment should be exercised as to the amount which will boil away and the quantity of water first put into the kettle gauged accordingly; adding water after the soup is done is very detrimental. Should it have boiled away too much, however, then a little hot water may be added. Soups cooked over a charcoal or peat fire are the best. Inasmuch as soups require long cooking and lose in quantity even in a tightly covered kettle, it is easy to oversalt, and this circumstance must betaken into consideration when the salt is first put in. It is always easy to add more salt if needed, but over-salting is an indiration of either negligence or ignorance.

If a good, clear, palatable soup is wanted, a thorough skimming must not be neglected. At present many recommend that soup should not be skimmed, claiming that skimming weakens the soup. We cannot agree with this view, the albumen contained in the scum has hut little nutritive value and a cloudy soup is not nearly so palatable (which should be the principal feature of a good soup) as one that is quite clear. But the skimming should not be done too soon-not before the meat has slowly simmered for at least 1/2 hour. Throw in a tablespoonful of cold water, which will bring the scum to the surface, when it should be immediately taken off.

Be careful in cooking the soup to keep the kettle closely covered, in order not to lose the flavor of the juices, and keep it simmering slowly, but without ceasing, until done, being careful to prevent boiling over. After cooking about 1 hour, take the precaution to pass the soup through a sieve, slightly rinse the meat


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to take off any scum which may adhere to it, and then place all back into the kettle (which has been cleaned in the meantime) and put on the fire again, having added the desired vegetables etc.

Vegetables in Soups. A piece of celery root cooked in the soup gives it a pleasant flavor. If one wishes to add the celery plentifully, it is well to first cook it in water before adding it to the soup, so that the flavor of the celery will not be stronger than the flavor of the meat; for the same reason too large a quantity of vegetables, particularly celery tops, should never be put into the soup; in a weak beef broth, pea soup or potato soup vegetables, however, may be added to advantage. A red onion will give the soup a yellowish color, and is an agreeable seasoning.

Parsley and salsify should be added about an hour after the soup has cleared. Parsley, leek and asparagus will become tender in about 1/2 hour, celery root in a short hour. The preparation of soup vegetables is explained under No. 32, A.

To thicken Soups. If flour is to be used for thickening meat or potato soup, it should be browned to a light yellow color with a piece of butter in a kettle or pan over a slow fire. Instead of this, however, flour may be kneaded with some fresh butter, make a small dumpling and put it into the soup at once after the latter has been passed through a sieve. The dumpling will dissolve completely and thicken the soup nicely. But the browned flour is preferable because it adds more strength to the soup.

When flour is used to thicken soups, it should never be put in raw, because this will impart an unpleasant flavor which will spoil even an ordinary potato soup.

Soups cooked for large dinner parties at which there arc several courses, are usually served quite clear and without the addition of the usual soup vegetables. Small dumplings with a little fresh asparagus or cauliflower may be added. For the family table, soups can be thickened with slightly browned flour, as above, and the addition of rice, pearl barley, noodles, or sago will make them more nutritious. Sago, noodles or vermicelli are usually added to strong beef stock.

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Quantities and Length of Time for cooking Pearl Barley, Rice, Sago and Fancy Noodles. 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of pearl barley or rice are sufficient in soup enough for 4 persons; 1 heaping tablespoonful of sago or fancy noodles in clear bouillon. Pearl barley and pure sago should be cooked in the soup 2 1/2-3hours, rice 1-1 1/2 hours, potato sago (which can be distinguished by its small round grains) 1/4-1 hour, fancy noodles and vermicelli, 1/2 hour.

When buying noodles be careful not to take those colored yellow and which ostensibly are made with eggs, for experience proves that the "saffron" used for coloring them is very harmful.

Dumplings. When dumplings are wanted in the broth or soup, take out the meat, lay it on a dish placed over boiling water, add 2-3 tablespoonfuls of soup fat and cover the dish at least until the soup is served. If the soup is to be entirely clear, it is better to cook the dumplings in slightly salted water to which a trifle of extract of beef has been added, and then take them out with a skimmer and put them into a tureen; the remaining broth, after having been put through a sieve, can be used for other soups or for cooking vegetables.

To make Soup stronger. A weak meat soup can be made stronger and more palatable by the addition of good extract, of beef, of which small quantities are needed, perhaps as much at a time as can be taken on the point of a table knife; further on, directions will be given how good, strong soups can be made without any meat by simply using beef extracts.

All meat soups must be served as hot as possible.

2. Quick Beef Broth. Into a large cup put the yolk of a fresh egg, some salt, a very small quantity of mace or nutmeg, a piece of butter the size of half a hazelnut (the butter is not absolutely necessary) and 1/2 teaspoonful of extract of beef; stir well and gradually fill the cup with 1/2 pint of fresh boiling water. Instead of the butter a piece of beefmarrow the size of half a hazelnut is much better; chop fine, cook for about 10 minutes in the boiling water which is to be used for the


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broth, and then pass through a sieve onto the beef extract. In case the entire yolk of the egg is not wanted, half of it stirred up in a tablespoonful of cold water will keep until the next day if put in a cool place. Or the cup can be filled with boiling water to begin with and the salt and extract of beef stirred up with it.

3. A palatable Soup for 8 Persons made of Beef Extract. Figure on 1/2 pint of soup for every person; a small quantity of water should be added for the boiling. In all, therefore, 3 quarts of water must be brought to a boil; put in 1 pound of nicely washed beef without any bones, add a sufficiency of salt and skim carefully. Then add an onion cut up very fine, 1/4 of a large celery root--if it is small take 1/2-and 4 tablespoonfuls of pearl barley, cover tightly and let the soup cook continually for 2 1/2 hours over a moderate fire.

Just before serving put the yolk of an egg, nutmeg according to taste, and a scant teaspoonful of beef extract into the tureen, then pour in the soup gradually stirring constantly to prevent the egg from curdling.

4. Clear White Beef Soup. For a large number of people take 1/2 pound of beef and for a smaller number take 3/4 pound for each person, to make a good, strong soup. The broth will greatly gain in strength if a chicken is cooked with the beef. In this case less of the latter will be required. If the meat is not to be brought to the table, cut it up and put it on the fire in water, 1/2 pint for every 1/2 pound of meat; after the meat has simmered gently for about 30 minutes, skim carefully, immediately add a celery root peeled and cut into pieces, the white end of a leek or of an onion cut in pieces, a carrot cut in half and the necessary quantity of salt, and cook until the meat is done. Then pass the broth through a sieve, and after it has settled pour it into the soup kettle again, being careful to keep back all the settlings, and cook once more, adding little dumplings, asparagus tips or small cauliflowers. Crab tails can be put into the tureen if desired; these must not be cooked, because cooking makes them tough.

At the same time, rice, 1/2 tablespoonful to each person, may be scalded and cooked in clear broth;it


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should be of a thick consistency, but the grain should remain whole. The rice is served with grated parmesan cheese as a side dish with the soup; or the rice may be moulded in any pretty form, dusted with the grated cheese or dripped with crab butter. A modern side dish served with the soup consists of cooked tomatoes. The tomatoes are cut up, cooked in beef broth and passed through a sieve and served in sauce dishes.

Beef soup must be cooked from 2-3 hours, according to the age of the beef from which the meat is cut, sometimes even 4 hours, particularly the breast piece.

5. Hasty Beef Soup. For 6-8 persons, 2 pounds of meat are cut into small cubes or thin slices. Take a piece of butter the size of half an egg and in this lightly brown a few tablespoonfuls of flour, put in the meat, a finely chopped onion, a carrot, together with a small celery root which has been cut into 8 pieces, stir for a short time and add as much boiling salted water as is wanted to make the desired quantity of soup, cover tightly, cook 1 hour, and pass through a sieve. If rice is to be put into the soup it is cooked separately and added, with the celery, when the soup is served. Season with nutmeg according to taste.

6. Clear Brown Beef Soup. Directions for the preparation of a brown broth will be found under No. 20, A. For a party of 12 people, take from 5-6 pounds of beef, and about 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of raw ham. Small dumplings can be cooked in this soup or brown sago if desired.

7. Tomato Soup. Lightly brown a good sized piece of butter with an onion, and in this stew 5-6 quartered tomatoes until soft, add 3 ounces of bits of toasted bread, a sufficiency of salt and enough water to make 6 plates of soup. Before serving, the soup is srained, and strengthened with beef extract. It must cook 1 1/2-2 hours and be well bound. If the bread is not liked in the soup take flour which has been lightly browned in butter instead.

Another way is to cook the tomatoes in meat broth until done, and pass through a sieve.

8. Beef Soup with Pearl Barley and Rice. Follow the directions given under No. 1, but pass the stock


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through a very fine sieve as soon as it has cooked 1/2 hour, then get a small piece of butter very hot in a small all iron kettle and, for about 4 persons, stir with this about 1 heaping spoonful of flour until it is very lightly browned, and put the flour together with the broth (which must be poured from the settlings very carefully) and the meat on the fire again. If it is to be pearl barley soup the barley is to be added at once, also such soup vegetables as may be desired, but rice must be cooked only 1-1/2 hours, as observed in No. 1. An hour before serving a few button onions, asparagus tips or young kohlrabi can be cooked with the soup. Cauliflower makes a good addition to the soup, but must be cooked previously to putting it in, not so much, however, that is will fall to pieces; asparagus for this kind of a soup needs no previous cooking. Shortly before serving, drop a few fresh, finely chopped celery leaves or a trifle of finely ground mace into the tureen; dumplings can be added to the soup if desired.

REMARK.--Meat dumplings are preferable to all other kinds in weak soups, but the soup must not be made too thin, and it can easily be thickened by the addition of flour rubbed in butter, yet the latter should not be added sooner than 1 hour before serving. Those liking the flavor of celery can take 1 or 2 thick celery roots clean them nicely, and cook them in the soup, then slice and serve with a dressing of olive oil, vinegar, pepper and salt as a salad.

9. French (Vegetable) Soup. Take vegetables of various kinds in their season; in the Summer peas, asparagus, kohlrabi, small carrots; in the Fall turnips, celery, savoy cabbage and kohlrabi. Cut up the vegetables and let them simmer in fresh butter, cover with a good strong meat broth, cook until the vegetables are well done, season the soup with mace and chopped parsley and serve with the addition of small egg dumplings or toasted bits of bread.

10. Ox-Tongue Soup. When the tongue is nicely prepared, an ox-tongue soup is not less palatable than any made from other kinds of meat. In the first place cut away the yellow spongy meat close to the bone, dip the tongue in hot water, rub thoroughly with salt, wash carefully and rinse until clean, then cover the tongue with plenty of water, add salt (not too much), put on the fire and cook slowly without interruption from 3-3 1/2 hours. This broth can be used for potato


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soups according to Nos. 39 and 40. Any other soup can be made from a weak tongue broth by the addition of more or less beef extract, and will then be but little inferior to soups made from meats.

For a small table, dishes of various kinds can be made from tongue. Taken hot from the soup, it is palatable with cabbage or savoy. Parts of the tongue can be divided, sliced, aud when fried with salt, egg, and cracker crumbs it makes a good side dish withi Brussels sprouts, asparagus, spinach, cauliflower, or other vegetables; the remainder can be made into a stew, but in this case the necessary broth is taken from the tongue after it is cooked, and put into a cool place. It is best to make the stew the following day; do not forget to add a few slices of lemon.

The larger you can get the tongue, the more profitable it will be.

11. Ox-Tail Soup. Cut 2 ox-tails at the joints into pieces about 2 inches long, wash carefully, put on the fire in cold water, and leave until it begins to boil, then again rinse them in cold water. Clean the kettle carefully, and put in some onions, carrots cut into small pieces, parsley root, leeks and celery, to which may be added a bay leaf and 6--8 peppercorns. Let it simmer with a piece of butter and a little salt for about 10 minutes, then pour in 1 1/2 quarts of meat broth and a pint of white wine. Then the ox-tail and a few slices of pork fat, and remnants of raw ham are cooked in this until nearly done. Take the meat out of the broth, strain the latter through a fine strainer, take off the superfluous fat, add one more glass of Madeira and enough meat broth to furnish the desired quantity of soup, say from 2 1/2-3 quarts, and in this let the ox-tail cook until completely done.

Vegetables of various kinds, such as peas, asparagus or carrots which have been cooked in a separate vessel in some meat broth, are now put into the tureen and the soup, which has been seasoned with a trifle of cayenne, is poured in as hot as possible. Frequently the meat is cut from the bones and served in the soup.

According to the English method, the thick pieces are first fried with a few pieces of pork fat until they begin to color before putting them into the boiling


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broth, which has been made from the thinner pieces of the ox-tail, a piece of beef and a few pork kidneys.

No vegetables are put into this soup, but only 1 bay leaf, mace, and a piece of ginger for seasoning.

The soup is thickened with browned flour and butter, and receives an additional seasoning of Madeira, and mushroom catsup.

12. Gravy Soup. Stew a thinly sliced onion with plenty of nice fresh butter, brown about 1-2 table-spoonfuls of flour in this and add enough boiling water to make the desired quantity of soup. After cooking rice and a sliced celery root in this until done add your gravy. Be careful in preparing soups from roast meat gravies that the latter have not become unpalatable or sour.

13. Veal Soup. Take the veal according to the number of persons as directed under No. 4; a somewhat larger quantity than there given is needed, however; because it does not yield so much broth as the beef. Wash, cook in water with a trifle of salt and skim carefully; after it has cooked for about 30 minutes pass through a strainer, rub some flour in butter, and onto this slowly pour the veal broth from the settlings, add a parsley root and, an hour before serving, some scalded rice. If in season, asparagus or cauliflower can be added; the latter should be previously cooked; 10 minutes before serving, meat balls or other kinds of dumplings may be cooked in the broth. Some people like a few purslane leaves or a little sorrel in veal soups. If you wish to substitute groats for the rice then leave out the flour, and put in a small piece of butter after the broth has been strained as directed under No. 8. When serving this soup, stir with it a little nutmeg or finely-chopped parsley; the yolk of an egg is a palatable addition to veal soup, but in this case the latter must not be thickened too much. If the meat is to be brought to the table after the soup, the directions given under No. 4 should be heeded; serve with the meat prepared grated horseradish, or else turn it in a beaten egg with salt and pepper and fry in butter. The cooking will take from 1 1/2--2 hours.

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14. Calf's-Head Soup. Take the head of a well fattened calf, clean, cover with water and a little salt, boil until tender and pass the broth through a strainer. For 10 persons, 3 heaping tablespoons offlour are lightly browned with butter, and then poured over this; if the broth should have become reduced too much through the boiling add some water. When the soup begins to cook, season with a pinch of saffron which has been previously dried and powdered , and add a dash of vinegar which has been made milder with a little sugar. A small cupful of vinegar of medium strength would be about the right proportion. Before serving stir the yolks of 5 eggs into the soup and also, according to taste, add about 6 ounces of bits of bread toasted in butter. In the meantime the calf's head should be split open; the brain taken out and put into the tureen, the meat taken from the bones and cut into pieces, fried in butter and served after the soup with boiled potatoes and pickles.

The boiled brain can also be cut into slices, sprinkled with salt and pepper, turned in eggs and bread crumbs and fried in butter to a light brown color.

15. Veal Sweetbread Soup. Prepare the sweetbreads according to A, 35, cut into small cubes and lightly brown in butter and flour. Cook for a short time in veal broth, salt slightly and stir with some finely chopped parsley or mace, and the yolks of eggs. This soup is also good for invalids, but then the seasoning must be omitted and the flour rubbed in a little butter but not browned, and 1/4 of a teaspoouful of extract of beef added to a pint of the soup.

16. Princess Soup. Prepare 3 veal sweetbreads according to A, 35, and cook them for 15 minutes in a mild broth made from the extract of beef. Chop 2 of the sweetbreads very fine, simmer for a few minutes in melted butter and stir with the yolks of 5 hard boiled eggs to a uniform mass. Cook 3 ounces of lightly toasted bread in about 3 quarts of mild meat broth, then put in the sweetbread mass and cook the soup 1/2 hour longer. 3 hard boiled eggs and the other sweetbread are cut into cubes, placed in the tureen, and sprinkled with a small glassful of Madeira. Season the


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soup with cayenne popper, strengthen with a, teaspoonful of extract of beef it necessary, pour over the ingredients already in the tureen and serve.

17. Mutton Broth. After washing the moat put it on the fire in boiling water, add salt but not too much,, skim carefully, put in 1 small celery root, a small kohlrabi, a finely sliced onion, flour browned according to No. 8, and some pearl barley or scalded rice, cover tightly and let it simmer slowly; clear off the fat as soon as it appears for if it is cooked with the soup too long the latter will receive an unpleasant taste. If you desire to put groats into the soup, this should be done about 30 minutes before the soup is served, stirring thoroughly. Potato dumplings may he put into the soup or the yolk of an egg, mace or minced parsley stirred with it. The length of time for cooking this soup is about 3 hours.

18. Good Chicken Soup. For 5 persons take a large-fat fowl which has been killed the day before and carefully pick it dean and wash thoroughly in cold water. As fowls occasionally impart a strong flavor to soups,, it is well 11 to keep them in cold water for 15 minutes or so. The feet of the fowl can lie utilized, if desired, by scalding them in boiling water, then take oft" the skin, chop off the points of the toes and put the latter in the soup with the heart and stomach of the fowl. The liver should be kept.back until the last and cooked in the soup about 3 minutes before serving. All chicken or poultry soups gain strength if the breast piece is first cut out with the bone, the legs and wings are parted at the joints, and all other larger bones are cracked.

Put the fowl on the fire in 3 quarts of water and should it bean old one the water must be cold; add a little salt, shim and follow the directions given under No. 8 with reference to pouring off the broth mid browning the flour; then add a piece of fresh bidter the size of a large walnut and let the soup cook slowly but uninterruptedly fur about 3 hours, keeping; the kettle tightly covered all the time. Rice, pearl barley or fancy noodles can be cooked with the soup if wished, but of vegetables the only proper kinds are parsley roots, salsify or asparagus. Celery, leeks and onions are too


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strong for the delicate flavor of the chicken soup. Crab dumplings (see O, No. 2) or crab butter (see A, No.9) are excellent in a good chicken soup, but bread, groat or egg dumplings are also good; a trifle of mace an appropriate seasoning for chicken soup, or instead of this a little finely chopped parsley and the yolks of 1-2 eggs can be stirred into the soup. Soup cooked according to the above directions, but without the addition of either noodles, rice, etc., leaving it entirely clear with all the fat taken off, and thickened simply with lightly browned flour, then adding 4 yolks of eggs whipped with 1 cupful of sweet cream or a glassful of Rhinewine and furthermore adding the roast meat of the chicken, which has been chopped very finely and passed through a strainer, makes what is known hi Germany as "Queen's Soup".

Another German method is to omit the beaten yolks of eggs, and instead to mix the grated yolks of a few hard boiled eggs with the chopped meat of the chicken and then to heat them both in the soup. In some kitchens a glass of champagne is added before the soup is served.

The fowl may be served with the chicken gravy described under division R of this book, or if the roast meat has been used in the soup, the remainder can be used for chicken croquettes.

19. Windsor Soup. (A fine soup for a dinner party of 10 persons). Take 1 pound of chopped beef, 3/4 pound of veal, about 1/4 pound of raw ham and lightly brown this in 6 tablespoonfuls of butter together with 1 onion, 1 carrot and 1/2 celery root, cover the meat with 3-4 quarts of meat broth or broth made from the extract of beet, add a chicken from which the breast piece has been cut away and cook all together slowly for 3 hours. In the meantine take the meat from the breast of the chicken, chop very finely and then add 2 eggs, grated bread, salt, and a trifle of parsley, and make up into little dumplings which should be cooked, in salt water just before serving. Macaroni broken into pieces are also cooked in salt water, soaked in an even tablespoonful of butter with 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, and put in the soup which has been thickened with browned flour and butter and strained. The soup can be still further


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seasoned according to taste with a few glassfuls of sherry, or instead of the macaroni a baked rice pudding can be served as a side-dish.

20. Oyster Soup. For 12 persons make 6 quarts of good beef broth, taking for this purpose 6 pounds of beef with some soup herbs, skim off the fat, pour the broth from off the settlings, clean out the kettle and again cook the broth, then thicken with 1/4 pound of fresh butter in which 4 tablespoonfuls of flour have been nibbed; in the meantime make 24 fish balls, open 48 oysters and take them out of the shells, cook the beards of the oysters in the liquor of the oysters, then pass through a sieve, add to the beef broth, and cook the dumplings in it for a few minutes, stir the yolks of 4- eggs with a little mace in a, glassful of Rhinewine to which gradually add, stirring constantly, some of the boiling broth, and afterwards pour this into the soup, keeping up the stirring so that it will not curdle. After the soup commences to boil, take the kettle from the fire and then throw in the oysters, because cooking hardens them, Then immediately serve the soup together with buttered toast.

21. "Kaiser" Soup, Meat-Puree Soup of Wild Fowl and Rabbit or Hare. These soups are particularly nutritious for elderly persons or those in delicate health. Make a good brown meat broth and in this cook until done, 1 pheasant. 2 partridges, 1 snipe, 1 hare, take out the meat and let it partly cool. All of the meat is then taken from the bones, which are broken up, and cooked for another hour in the broth. The latter is then passed through a very fine strainer; the best parts of the meat, which must be free from skin and not stringy, are then pounded very fine in a stone mortar, pass through a .strainer and mix with the broth, which, amounting to about 3 quarts or more, is salted according to taste, receives a piece of butter and should be frequently stirred with a wooden spoon, but, heated only and not again boiled. To thicken the soup slightly scale about 2 heaping tea-spoonfuls of bread crumbs with the meat broth and pound with the meat. This easily digestible soup contains all the strength of the game without any of the bones and sinews, combined, with the best essence of the beef.

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22. Crab Soup. Make a good beef broth according to No. 1 and for 12 persons take about 30--40 crabs which have been cleaned and prepared according to directions already given, and cook them in boiling water for 15 minutes. Pick the meat out of the tails and claws, crush the shells in a mortar, but not too fine, and put them on the fire with 1/4 pound of butter and stir until it begins to turn red and raise, then put in 4 tablespoonfuls of flour to thicken the soup. Pour over this 6 quarts of the beef broth, and then pass the whole through a sieve covered with cheese cloth. Shortly before serving add crab dumplings--(see O, No. 2) and sweetbreads (A, No. 35) into the soup which has been brought to a boil again. Asparagus tips and small cauliflowers are also favorite additions to crab soups. The tails of the crabs are put into the tureen, just before serving. When thickening be careful not to get it too thick, and, by the way, avoid this with all soups made for dinner parties.

23. Eel Soup (Bremen Style). For 3 quarts of soup boil 2 tablespoonfuls of fine pearl barley in a small quantity of water, then pour over this the necessary quantity of beef broth, and add shelled green peas, parsley or celery roots, cauliflowers, asparagus and a few small potatoes --the latter three ingredients should first be cooked--some chopped lettuce, celery, leek, parsley, purslane, salt and ground white pepper, taking proportionately smaller quantities of the stronger herbes, cook all together for 30 minutes and then put in nicely cleaned pieces of eel about 2 inches long, which have girst been cooked in salted water, and cooked until done.

Then make dumplings of fish force meat, cook them for a few minutes in the soup and stir this with the yolks of a few eggs, sweet cream, chopped thyme and a few drops of lemon juice; serve immediately.

24. Eel soup (Hamburg Style). two pounds or more of heavy eels are rubbed in salt--it is best to do this the day previous to cooking--then washed, cut into piexes of a suitable size, the head and the point of the tail cut off, and cooked in white wine, a very little wine vinegar, salt, white andf black peppercorns, and 1-2


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bay leaves. Cook a number of pears the day before iii white wine and cinnamon as for a same, but without sugar. The pears should be cooked whole so that they may receive the full flavor of the wine and vinegar. The eel and the pears should be set aside in a cool place.

When ready to cook, boil 2, 3 or 4 pounds of good beef in 1 pint of water to each pound of meat. Skim carefully and after cooking 1 hour throw in asoupplate-ful of carrots cut into little pieces half as much parsley root also cut into small pieces, and 1 celery root, whole. At the same time take a handful of celery leaver, a handful of parsley, a few slips of sweet majoram, also a bit of thyme, burnet, houseleek, a few sorrel and sage leaves and some green leek, chop tine and put into the soup, and after it has cooked a few hours throw in a soupplateful of shelled green peas, a handful of purslane and of cauliflower. Shortly before serving rub a tablespoonful of flour in a good-sized piece of butter, and stir it into the soup with some pepper. When ready to serve pour as much of the soup as will be needed into the tureen and add as much of the eel and of the pears (which must first be warmed) as will be proportionately enough, bringing the remaining pieces of the eel and the rest of the pears to the table in separate dishes, Should it then happen that more soup is wanted than was prepared, the eel and pears can be passed around and the plates filled with what is remaining of the soup.

Dumplings made according to directions given under 0, No. 3, are also put into the soup.

If the eel soup is wanted for the family table, prepare a simple strong meat broth and in this cook for an hour before serving a plateful of green peas, another plateful of quartered pears and celery roots until done. Then put in a few eels which have previously been skinned, cut into pieces and cooked in salt water until half done; put in such soup herbs as can be obtained, cook until done. Thicken the soup if necessary and put in sponge dumplings (see under 0). Serve with sliced lemon.

25. Fish soup. Pickerel, pike, carp or freshwater fish of every kind are cut into pieces, turned in flour and baked in butter together with some slices of bread until


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light brown, then pour in some meat broth which has been made with celery, parsley roots and onions, or else the strained broth of shelled green peas, let the soup cook a little longer, pass through a sieve, shortly before serving bring to boil again and serve with finely chopped parsely. Buttered toast cut into small pieves is served in the soup.

If the broth has been prepared beforehand, this kind of soup can be gotten ready in 1 hour.

For an ordinary fish soup the water in which fresh water fish have been cooked will answer. This soup is best thickened with dried peas, cooked and strained; strengthen with extract of beef.

26. Mock Turtle Soup. For 24-30 persons make a strong beef broth, taking 8-10 pounds of beef with the requisite soup herbs, onions, bay leaves, ground cloves and 2-3 whole cloves. Put on the fire a large well cleaned calf's head, a pig's jowl and ears, a nice beef bone and a smoked beef tongue; cook all together until done, but it must not be too tender. After the meats are cold, cut them up in small oblong pieces and also the tongue of the calf, which of course must be well cleaned, put all in the broth with the addition o small sausages, a pingh of cayenne pepper, several sweet breads (see A, No. 35), and enough of the calf's head broth to make a sufficent quantity of soup, which should be thickened with browned flour and butter.

After everything has cooked for 15 minutes, cook a number of veal meat balls in some veal broth or salted water and add them to the soup, together with several hard boiled eggs cut into small pieces, and also the brain of the calf which must first be washed in water, scalded, the small veins taken out, then cooked in water with a little vinegar, afterwards cut it into slices, turn in egg and bread crumbs and bake in butter; furthermore, put into the soup some catsup and if they can be obtained, 1/2 bottle of Madeira and some oystersl the latter two, however, must not be cooked as long as the rest.

Then immediately serve the soup.

To make a very elegant mock-turtle soup small dumplings in imitation of turtle eggs must be added. Take the yolks of 3 hard boiled eggs, grate them finely


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and mix with a small teaspoonful of flour, the yolk of a fresh eggs, 1 1/2 tablespoonfuls of butter, salt and a trifle of nutmeg, make little balls the size of a marble, cook for a few minutes in boiling water.

The beef broth as well as the bead of the calf can be cooked the day before without detriment to the soup.

A simple mock-turtle soup can be made by cooking the head of the calf together with the soup herbs, carrots and a beef jaw; thicken with browned flour and butter, strengthen with about 1/2 teaspoonful of extract of beef for each quart of broth and then add tarragon, the chopped meat of the calf's-head, 1 glassful of arrac and hard boiled eggs cut into cubes.

27. Hare Soup. When cleaning the hare, catch the blood; crack the bones and cut the meat, excepting the saddle, into pieces, cook together with several pounds of beef, some ham, spices and soup herbs slowly for 3 hours; in the meantime fry the saddle in butter, cut up into pieces and put into the tureen. Pays the soup through a strainer, thicken with browned flour and butter and then add the blood, being careful to stir vigorously, also 2 glassfuls of Portwine, some cayenne pepper and salt, cook thoroughly and serve.

According to the English method, only the hare is used and the time devoted to cooking does not exceed 2 hours. For this soup cut up the whole hare and after setting aside the best pieces of the saddle, fry the rest of the meat with carrots, sliced ham, soup herbs and seasoning in batter to a light brown; on tins pour clear beef broth and cook as above. The saddle pieces are also fried, but they are then pounded very fine, mixed with some soaked bread or roll and 1/2 pint of Portwine and cooked wth the soup.

Sometimes rice is cooked in the soup, but a rice pudding served with the soup is preferable.

A medium-sized hare will make enough soup for 6-7 persons.

28. Brown Soup made from the Bones of Hares, Game or Roasts. First remove all of the meat which may still adhere to the bones, chop very fine and stir with soaked and pressed bread, some fresh butter, several eggs, salt, pepper, nutmegs; this is to be made into


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small dumplings to be cooked in the soup later on. It is well to test the dumplings to see whether they are too hard or too soft; in the first case put in another egg or some cream, in the latter some bread or cracker crumbs. The bones, in the meantime, are broken or cracked into small pieces and fried lightly in butter with sliced lean ham, onions, carrots and a parsley root, brown a few tablespoonfuls of flour and pour over all as much boiling water together with such lots of perfectly good gravy as you have left over. Cook the soup for 2 hours, pass through a very fine strainer in order to catch the chips of bones that may be in the soup, then pour the soup back into the kettle, being-careful to keep back the settlings, cook the dumpling until done, strengthen the soup with extract of beef and season with Madeira, cayenne pepper and salt. Should there be no meat on the bones, thicken the soup with browned flour and butter, or else cook the dumplings or the hearts of cabbages in the soup. Ordinarily the frying of the bones can also be omitted and then they need simply receive a long and slow cooking in water with salt, spices and plenty of soup vegetables, but when thus made an addition of extract of beef is desirable.

29. Partridge Soup. Partridge soup is made like hare soup; instead of the dumplings, the meat from the breast can be sliced very fine and served in the soup.

30. Jacobine Soup. Put poached eggs, (see under L) into the tureen together with bits of "toasted bread, cover with strong, hot beef broth and add chopped pieces of poultry roast.

31. Beef Tea. Take about 1 pound of lean beef tree from sinews; it is necessary to have a vessel that can be hermetically sealed, and a large piece of absorbent or blotting paper. Cut the beef into small pieces, put into the vessel, close it and put into a kettle with boiling water and let it cook slowly 4 hours. Then pour through a very fine strainer into a warm cup take off the fat with the blotting paper by absorption, season with salt and stir into it the yolk of an egg. The given quantity of meat will make a medium sized cupful of beef tea. The meat can be utilized for hash or for meat balls.

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32. Pigeon Soup for Invalids. The broth is prepared as directed under No. 1, and scalded rice is added immediately after the broth is skimmed; a few fresh carrots or green peas, or 1/2 hour before serving some asparagus tips or a little cauliflower (the latter must first be cooked) may be added. The soup must cook not less than 2 hours, because only old pigeons are to be used; it should be well bound but not too thick, and if the invalid is entirely free from fever, the half of the yolk of a fresh egg may be stirred into it. Instead of rice, pearl barley is frequently put into soups of this kind; the barley must first be scalded, slightly browned in butter, cooked with a few spoonfuls of the broth and be allowed to draw on top of the stove until the pigeon soup has cooked for about an hour; then cook them in the soup until completely done, after which a few asparagus tips only are added.

33. Veal Soup for Invalids. Take a good chunky piece of veal, skim the broth through a strainer, put in small piece of fresh butter and some scalded rice, and cook until done with asparagus and cauliflower which have first been separately cooked. The yolk of a fresh egg or a trifle of nutmeg or finely chopped parsley may be stirred in the soup if it is not contrary to the physician's directions.

34. Beef Broth Soup (Puree) for Invalids. Make a good clear beef broth according to No. 1; in 1 large cupful cook 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of grated wheat-bread and after passing it through a sieve stir into it the breast of a chicken very finely chopped, which has first been thoroughly mixed with 2 tablespoonfuls of sweet cream. The soup must not be cooked again and the yolk of an egg can be stirred in if desired.

35. Game Soup with Tapioca. Take a partridge and make a clear broth free from fat, stir 2 even tablespoonfuls of tapioca with 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry, cook for 10 minutes in the broth, and finally add a few asparagus tips or small cauliflowers, which have previously been cooked in salted water until done. Any other kind of game can be used, but it must first be slightly roasted, covered with cracked veal bones, salt,


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soup vegetables and the necessary amount of water, and cook slowly for 3 hours before the broth is strained and other ingredientes, as taste suggests, are added.

Besides the last five of these soups, Nos. 2, 16, 17 and 19 are well adapted for the sick room.

> II. VEGETABLE AND HERB S0UPS.

36. Soup, Vegetables and Meat. This dish makes a palatable, nutritious and cheap dinner, and can he prepared either from fresh peas or such as have become slightly hard, (the latter must be strained after cooking) as well as from young kohlrabi, cauliflowers or even potatoes . Get a piece of butter or lard very hot, in this brown 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of fine flour pour the necessary quantity of water over all, stirring it, and as soon as it commences to boil add the desired vegetables, either a heaping soupplateful of shelled green peas and soup vegetables cut into pieces, or 2 sliced kohlrabi, some salt, and cook until tender and the soup becomes rather thick. If the soup is to be made with potatoes follow the directions given under No. 28 for a potato soup, cook with either a piece of leek or a celery root, then with a tablespoon cut from the boiled meat 16 dumplings (see O, beef or veal dumplings) shaping them by turning them back and forth with the spoon; it is advisable, however, to try them to see that they are not too flabby or too hard; then cook the dumplings for about 5 minutes, that is to say, until done, after which the soup should not cook any longer, then stir a small head of finely chopped parsley into it. If potatoes arc cooked in the soup, serve them boiled as a separate dish.

37. Russian Cabbage Soup. (Borsch). (Original receipt.) Take about six pounds of beef for the stock. Clean 6 small red beets, cut into long thick slices, turn in flour, cover tightly and stew in butter for 1/2 hour. Besides this take a small head of cabbage, quarter it, cover with boiling water, put the lid on the kettle and set aside for 1/2 hour. After the broth has cooked for 1 1/2


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hours, put in the beets and then 1/2 hour later the cabbage; celery root, small carrots, and green leek must not be forgotten. After all is thoroughly well cooked add 1/2 pint of your cream into which a heaping tablespoouful of flour has been stirred, and when the cooking is done, stir the yolk of an egg into the soup and serve with small sausages.

38. Potato Soup. Put the bones of fresh or roast meats on the fire, together with meat remnants of fresh meat, adding the proper amount of salt, skim, put in onions, leek and a celery root, and cook slowly for 1 1/2 hours. In the meantime cook the potatoes in a separate kettle until they are almost soft, add them to the soup and after the cooking is well done, strain. Stir a finely chopped bunch of parsley or else grated nutmeg into the soup, then serve with bits of toasted bread.

Potato soup can also be made without meats, using water only, but in this case it must have plenty of vegetables, and also some flour browned in butter and a teaspoonful of extract of beef must be cooked with it.

39. A very fine Potato Soup. Fry 2 platefuls of sliced raw potatoes with a chopped onion in 2 even tablespoonfuls of butter to a light brown color until nearly done, throw them without the butter into 3 quarts of boiling water, in which some soup vegetables have been cooked for 15 minutes previously, add sufficient salt and cook the soup for 1/2 hour; then pass through a sieve, and in the fat which remains from frying the potatoes brown 1 tablespoonful of flour, add this to the soup, strengthen with a small teaspoonful of extract of beef and 2 tablespoonfuls of claret, let it come to a boil: and then serve with toasted bits of bread.

40. Oatmeal Soup with Potatoes. Soak the oatmeal in water, about 1 heaping teaspoonful for each person, and then cook in water with the addition of some good fat (broth from cooked smoked meats or ham mixed with water is excellently adapted for the purpose), kohlrabi, celery, parsley and green leek, or if these are not obtainable, take a few finely chopped onions, add nicely washed potatoes and the necessary


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them cook well for l/2 hour; pour them on the colander and immediately put them back into the kettle, which has been cleaned in the meantime, with fat or butter and enough boiling water to cover; the beans are cooked until they are tender, being careful to frequently add a dash of boiling water; they must not be stirred very often so that they will remain whole and yet make a good thick soup; they are afterwards salted and reduced with boiling water to make the soup, and once more cooked after a small quantity of meat broth or extract of beef is added. A smoked pork sausage which has first been cooked, or a snmll piece of smoked ham, according to the opinion of some people, will improve the flavor of the soup, or 5 minutes before serving "Frankfurt" or "Wiener" sausages can be put into it and, if liked, a number of small potatoes which have first been separately cooked. In some German kitchens thyme or majoram are a favorite seasoning for bean soup.

A few tart apples cooked in the soup give it a very pleasant flavor, which can be still further improved by adding a teaspoonfal of crab butter before serving.

49. Lentil Soup. Lentils should be cooked in an enameled vessel to prevent them from turning dark, and they will be much improved by pouring off some of the water and renewing it twice after cooking about 15 minutes at each time, and then let them cook slowly in not too much water but with plenty of fat. After this thin to the proper consistency with the broth of pickled meat and cook until done with small potatoes , some leek or sliced onions browned in butter. If this kind of soup is made with water and fat only, a large lump of pork forcemeat should be cooked with it until done. Serve with cooked prunes.

Lentil soup can also be cooked like a pea soup with "Frankfurt" or smoked pork sausages or a piece of pork, but the lentils should remain whole; flour should be browned with onions and some good fat, to thicken the soup if it should be too thin. Serve with vinegar.

Time of cooking, 2-4 hours.

50. Lentil Soup with Partridges. This is a meat puree soup and gains very much in nutritive qualities through the addition of the lentils. It is advantageous


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to take an already roasted chicken, the bones of partridges or old partridges. The best meat is stripped from the bones and the latter are then crushed in a mortar and cooked 1-2 hours with soup herbs and an onion, after which the soup is strained. In the meantime, cook 1/4 pound of lentils with a piece of butter in not too much water until thick, pass through a sieve and stir with the partridge broth. If you have the breast pieces of partrdiges, take out the sinews, clean off the skin and all gristle, cut into fine slices and put into the tureen at once, because cooking will harden the meat. Should there be any meat left, pound it as finely as possible, stir it into the soup, letting it cook 1/4 hour longer, then pass through a strainer once more and serve very hot, pouring it over the breasts of the partridges and slices of wheat bread nicely fried in butter.

51. Sorrel Soup. Sorrel should be raised in every garden. It is very wholesome and in the Spring it makes a palatable and refreshing soup. Lightly brown plenty of flour in good butter, rub nicely washed tender leaves of the sorrel in this and cook in veal broth or water, after supplying the necessary salt. Stir into the soup nutmeg, thick cream and the yolks of a few eggs and serve over fried wheat bread placed in the tureen. Instead of the bread small egg dumplings can be cooked in the soup. It should be nicely thickened, but must not be too stiff. A little extract of beef will prove a desirable addition.

Time of cooking, 1/4--1/2 hour.

52. Silesian Celery Soup. Clean 2 thick celery roots, a piece ot green leek and 1 parsley root, and boil tender in 2 quarts of water, adding the necessary salt; then brown 2 tablespoonfuls of flour in 1 tablespoonful of good butter, stir the broth into this, add the herbs (leaving out the celery) and serve as hot as possible. A small addition of extract of beef improves the flavor of the soup.

After the celery roots have been cooked until tender they can be sliced and made into a salad with olive oil and vinegar, and served as a side dish with the roast.

The French way of making this soup is much simpler; 4 celery roots are divided and cooked in water with


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double the quantity of potatoes cut into pieces, salt, pass through a strainer, add a small piece of butter and little extract of beef and season with a small bunch of a chopped celery. Both kinds of soup are served with toasted bread.

Time of cooking 1 1/2 hours.

53. Hotch Potch or Scotch Soup. This very wholesome, nutritious and palatable soup is a favorite Scotch dish for the ordinary table. Although generally made from mutton and vegetables of all kinds, yet it is also very good when made with beef or veal, or fresh pickled pork.

In the Summer take for about 8 persons, 2 pounds of mutton from the shoulder, the neck or the ribs, 2 quarts of shelled green peas, not too young, 1 pint of large beans, 1-2 cauliflowerheads cut up fine, 1 quart of fresh kohlrabi cut into cubes, 1 quart of carrots also cut up, 1 head of cabbage, 1-2 heads of curled (savoy) cabbage cut into fine shreds, 1 dozen chopped white onions and a handful of purslane and celery leaves.

Cook the meat 2 hours in 2 quarts of water, then gradually add the above-named vegetables, putting in the cauliflower last; salt, and let the soup cook 2 hours longer until everything is nice and tender. The meat can be separated from the bones and served in the soup, or it may be brought to the table after the soup with the potatoes , butter and parsley or a gravy.

This soup can also be cooked as Scotch broth by making it thinner and chopping the vegetables as finely as possible and adding some salsify. If it is not to be the principal dish at dinner, cook the vegetable soup with a mild beef broth strengthened with a little extract of beef, and omit the meat. In the Fall and in the Winter enough of this soup can be cooked to last for several days.

In the Winter, take instead of the peas 1/2 pound of coarse groats, let them stand over night covered with water, and then cook with the meat and such vegetables as are obtainable.

54. Soup a l'aurore. Peel and scrape 3 carrots, 3 potatoes and 3 onions, cut into thin slices, add a few small celery leaves and cook together in 2 quarts of


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water until soft enough to pass through a sieve. After the latter is done, put the soup on the fire again with 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter, 1 even teaspoonful of extract of beef and the same quantity of salt, stir slowly until thoroughly cooked and serve with bits of toasted bread.

55. Herb Soups for Invalids. Take 1/2 pound of boneless beef and make 1 pint of clear broth with salt, but skim off all the fat, pass through a sieve and then cook in it for 10 minutes 1 ounce of bread--or cracker crumbs. Chop beforehand 1 ounce of sorrel and the same quantity of chervil, spinach and a piece of parsley root, simmer slowly in butter until tender and pass through a sieve, then mix with the yolks of 2 eggs and slowly pour the beef broth over this vegetable puree. The soup need not be cooked again--it is served immediately. When fats are forbidden the herbs are to be cooked in salt water until done.

Soups Nos. 41, 42, 43 and 51 are also adapted for the sickroom.

> III. WINE AND BEER SOUPS.

56. White Wine Soup. 2 tablespoonfuls of fine flour and the yolks of 6 very fresh eggs are stirred with 1 bottle of white wine or cider, and 1 bottle of water sweetened with plenty of sugar. Put in a few lemon slices without the seeds, add a pinch of salt, and then cook over a hot fire in a clean kettle, stirring constantly with an egg beater, and pour into the tureen immediately, first putting in some mace. The whites of the eggs, beaten to a froth, can be made into little balls, put on the soup, sprinkled with sugar, and when the tureen is covered they will be done in a few minutes.

If the whole eggs instead of the yolks only and only 1/2 of the flour be taken, it makes a wine froth soup.

Serve with these soups small crackers or toast, which can also be dusted with sugar.

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57. Another Wine Soup. Lightly brown 2 ounces of flour in 2 even tablespoonfuls of butter, stir this smooth with 1 bottle of white wine and 1 pint of water, add 3 heaping teaspoonfuls of sugar and a trifle of salt. This soup is seasoned variously with lemon or orange peel, peach or orangeflower water, or with fresh fruit, such as strawberries or raspberries, simply letting them boil up once in the soup. The yolks of a few eggs may be stirred in the soup if desired.

58. Sago Soup with Claret. Scald pure sago twice with water, then put on the stove with hot water, add a piece of cinnamon and cook until done, which will take from 2--2 1/2 hours. Then add the same quantity of claret, sweeten the soup well with sugar, let it come to a boil, put in a few slices of lemon and serve with crackers or fresh toast.

59. Hasty Cracker Soup. Water, crackers, some butter, a few pieces of cinnamon, lemon peel and salt in proportions according to the quantity of soup desired are put on the fire and cooked until done; then pass through a sieve and stir into it the yolks of a few eggs, sweet cream, wine and sugar.

60. Pearl Barley and White Wine Soup. Put the barley on the fire with a little boiling water, a small piece of fresh butter, some cinnamon and lemon peel, and cook slowly in a scant broth (replenishing the hot water frequently) until done. After the soup has cooked for 2 hours, put in raisins that have first been washed, and let them cook until soft. When serving add wine, sugar and a trifle of salt, and stir into the soup the yolks of 1 or 2 eggs.

61. A nice Soup made from Coarse Barley Groats. Put 1 pound of groats on the fire in a little boiling water with a small piece of butter, a few pieces of cinnamon and a little salt, replenishing the boiling water from time to time and cook until quite soft. Then pass the whole through a sieve, during which operation some water should be poured over the barley in order to retain in the soup everything that will tend to thicken it. After about 3/4 hour, cook about 1/2 pound of well-washed raisins in the soup until soft. The soup should


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be well bound but not thick. When ready to serve, stir the yolks of 2 fresh eggs together with 1/2 pint of white wine in the tureen and pour in the boiling soup gradually, stirring constantly, and sweeten with sugar. This will make enough soup for 8-10 persons. Instead of the barley the soup can be made with very fine barley meal stirred in it, which is cooked about 10 minutes until done, first boiling the raisins in water with some butter.

This soup can also be made from grits (fine middlings); in this case first cook the raisins, stir the grits with sugar, salt and the proper quantity of water, add sufficient boiling water to make as much soup as is wanted, and after the grits are thoroughly cooked, stir the soup as above directed. In both soups cider or white currant wine can be used to excellent advantage.

Time of cooking, 3 hours.

62. Rice Soup with Raisins. Lightly brown a little butter in a spoonful of flour, take the necessary quantity of boiling water, scalded rice, cleaned and washed raisins and a small piece of cinnamon. Cook all until well done and stir the soup with salt, sugar, a litte wine, and the yolks of a few eggs.

63. Frothy Beer Soup. 1 quart of beer (which must not be bitter), 1 quart of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of fine wheat flour, 4 eggs, sugar, 2 slices of lemon and cinnamon according to taste are whipped with an egg beater over a hot fire until nearly cooked; pour into the tureen immediately. Serve with buttered toast or crackers.

A palatable addition to this kind of soup consists of a bread pudding made from pieces of rye bread mixed with fine sugar, ground cinnamon and scalded currants. Fry the bread in butter of a light brown color, press tightly into a large funnel or similar mold and turn into the tureen.

64. Hasty Beer Soup. Take 1/2 pint of beer for each person and the same quantity of water, cook, and add the necessary quantity of sugar and a pinch of salt. Then stir the yolk of 1 egg and 1 heaping teaspoonful of flour together with some cold water and gradually pour the boiling beer over it, constantly stirring, and


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then put back into the kettle. The stirring should be kept up continually, even after the kettle has been taken from the fire, to prevent curdling.

If desired, the white of an egg can be beaten to a froth with some sugar, taken up with a spoon and put on the soup, or else the froth may be beaten through the soup.

65. Beer Soup with Raisins. Cook plenty of raisins with water and wheat bread until the raisins are quite soft, then add enough beer to give the soup good strength, sweeten with sugar and when it cooks put in according to the quantity of soup 1/2-1 tablespoonful of flour stirred in water, and then stir through the soup (which should not be too thin nor too stiff) the yolks of a few eggs and some cinnamon. When eggs are lacking the flour can be stirred up with good cream or milk.

66. Beer Soups with Milk. For 3-4 persons take 1 pint of milk with its cream, 1 pint of water, 1/2 pint of strong but not bitter beer, 2 ounces of currants, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt and the yolk of an egg. Put everything excepting the egg and the salt in a deep kettle on a hot fire and bring it to a boil, stirring constantly and briskly; take the kettle from the fire immediately, keep up the stirring for a few minutes longer, otherwise it will curdle easily, add some salt and then stir into it the yolk of the egg and some ground cinnamon. Serve with biscuits or toast.

If you have no time to devote to stirring the soup, and without which it will curdle, then the water, beer, currants and flour should be brought to a boil, cook the milk in a separate vessel, take both from the fire, pour together and stir the yolk of the egg into the soup.

67. Wine Soup for Invalids. Good claret, Portwine or sherry are absolutely essential for these soups, which, by the way, should never be served to invalids unless with the consent of the physician. Take pure sago or tapioca, pound the sago and soak in cold water for 3 hours. Then drain, and afterwards cook it with water


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and a small piece of candied ginger (the latter is omitted when claret is used) until transparent, add the wine, some lemon juice and sugar and serve with crackers. Tapioca is simply cooked in the water until done without any previous soaking. When claret is used, the addition of a few teaspoonfuls of pineapple, raspberry or strawberry jelly will greatly improve The flavor of the soup.

Nos. 57, 60 and 61 are also good soups for invalids.

> IV. MILK SOUPS AND WATER SOUPS.

NOTE.--It is well to keep a particular kettle for cooking milk soups, because the milk scorches very easily and the flavor of food that has been previously cooked in the kettle is readily imparted to the milk. Scorching may be prevented by first greasing the bottom of the kettle with a piece of pork fat, or at least first rinsing the kettle with cold water.

68. Fine Milk Soups served either warm or cold. For 3 persons take 1 quart of fresh milk, 1 tablespoonful of constarch, the yolks of 2 eggs, sugar, lemon peel or a little vanilla, or a few pounded bitter almonds. Stir over a hot fire constantly until cooked and then pour into the tureen. Make a stiff froth of the whites of eggs, and form into little balls as directed under No. 56, or else the froth can be mixed with sugar and stirred into the soup until the latter is frothy through and through.

REMARK. During the hot season, this soup, served cold, makes an excellent and convenient dish for the supper table and for this purpose it can be cooked in the forenoon.

69. A very nutritious Milk Soup. Bring 3 quarts of milk to a boil. Whip 1-2 eggs, stir up with fine flour and reduce the stiff dough with cold milk and pour into the boiling milk without stirring; pass a spoon over the bottom of the kettle several times to loosen the mass, and break it up into lumps, and then cook until these are done. Salt the soup moderately and pour into the tureen at once to prevent scorching.

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70. Grits (Middlings) Soup with Milk. Put the grits into the boiling milk, constantly stirring, and cook with salt, sugar and some butter until nice and thick. It can consist of water to the amount of 1/3. For 1 person the right proportion would be 1/2 pint and 1 tablespoonful of grits according to quality.

71. Noodle Soup with Milk. This soup is cooked according to the directions given for the grits soup preceding.

72. Rice Soup with Milk. Wash the rice and put on the fire in cold water, and after the water has become quite hot, pour it off, because some varieties of rice are somewhat acidulous, causing the milk to curdle; after this cook the rice on a hot fire until done. If fresh milk is used for the soup, it can be reduced one-half with water, and 1/2 pint of milk with an even tablespoonful of rice will be the right proportion for each person.

Cook half of the milk with the water, put in a few pieces of cinnamon and the rice, and cook slowly until tender; then add the remainder of the milk and a little sugar and salt, and let the soup cook for a short time longer. If it is desired that the soup should be a little thicker, add at last some cornstarch stirred in water, but no flour because the latter spoils the flavor of the soup; the cornstarch should simply cook until done. As noted, flour impairs the flavor of the soup, but if it must be used then the soup should cook with the flour under constant stirring for 15 minutes.

73. Soup with Pearl Barley and Milk. Wash the barley, put on the fire with a smalll piece of butter and a little water and cook slowly with a scant broth until tender, replenishing the water as often as necessary, then add milk and a little salt, and cook the soup until thick; if not thick enough to suit, put in a little cornstarch which has first been stirred in water. It can be flavored with sugar and cinnamon or mace.

In the same manner good soups can be made from pure sago or from coarse barley which must be soaked the night before in water.

Time of cooking, 2 hours. The quantities and weights of ingredients are the same as given in the preceding receipts.

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74. Pearl Sago Soup with Milk. Put the sago into the boiling milk which has been thinned somewhat with a little water, otherwise the sago will dissolve completely. After the elapse of 1/2-3/4 hour the sago should be soft, then stir into it some cornstarch and salt, and add, according to taste, sugar and cinnamon; the yolk of an egg can also be stirred into the soup if wished.

Take a pint of milk and 1 ounce of sago for each person.

75. Oatmeal Soup with Milk. Drain the oatmeal several times and then cook in water until tender and of a medium thickness, stirring occasionally because it adheres to the kettle easily and scorches. After straining, put it on the stove again, add milk and some salt and let it cook 15 minutes more.

Take 1-1 1/2 ounces of oatmeal and 1/2 pint of fresh or 1 pint of skimmed milk for each person; the first is preferable.

76. Cornmeal Soup. To cook this very nutritious and cheap soup, mix water and milk half and half and bring to a boil, stir in enough corn meal until it has the proper consistency, and put in some salt.

77. Chocolate Soup. Put 1/4 pound of chocolate on the fire in a cupful of water, and after it is soft stir until quite smooth, and then add 2 quarts of milk and sugar according to taste; as soon as it commences to cook, flavor the soup with vanilla or cinnamon and stir into it the yolks of 1-2 eggs. The whites of the eggs may be beaten to a froth and put on the soup in the form of little balls, sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon. This quantity of soup is calculated for 5 persons and is served over bits of bread toastedin butter placed in the tureen.

78. Buttermilk with Fine Pearl Barley, also good for Invalids. Put the barley on the fire in water and cook until tender; then add the buttermilk, into which some flour has been stirred, with salt, sugar and cinnamon according to taste.

79. Buttermilk with Prunes or Raisins. After carefully washing and rinsing them, cook until soft in water into which some anise seed can be put and, according to


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taste, grated rye bread. Grate some wheat bread and put it into the soup with the buttermilk into which some flour should be stirred to prevent curdling, and boil under constant stirring. When serving, stir in salt, sugar and some cinnamon.

80. Brown Flour Soup. Lightly brown the flour without any butter as directed under A, No. 3, boil the milk and stir into it enough of the browned flour and cold milk as is necessary to give the soup consistency, then stir through it sugar, cinnamon and the yolks of eggs, and serve over bits of bread toasted in butter which have been placed in the tureen.

81. White Flour Soup. Heat a piece of butter the size of half an egg, put in 3 tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until it commences to curl and bubble; then pour in the required quantity of boiling water, stirring carefully, so that the flour will remain smooth and not become lumpy. When done, stir the soup with salt, mace or lemon peel, a trifle of sugar and the yolk of an egg, or else serve without any spice or sugar, putting in salt, sour cream and finely chopped parsley.

82. Onion Soup (South Germany Style). For 4 persons, lightly brown 3 large onions, cut up into small cubes in 2 1/2 tablespoonfnls of butter, in this also brown lightly 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, and then pour in enough meat broth to make the necessary quantity of soup, and cook thoroughly. Then pass through a sieve, cook once more, stir with 2 yolks of eggs, and serve over bits of bread toasted in butter, placed in the tureen.

83. Soup made with Pastry Dough. Break the dough into pieces and put it on the fire in cold water; after it has been cooked to a pulp put in a piece of butter or good fat and gradually pour on boiling water. Before serving, put in some finely chopped parsley, beat up the yolk of an egg in a tureen, with some sour cream, and then pour in the soup, being careful to stir constantly.

84. Barley Soup for Invalids. Fine pearl barley is cooked in a little boiling water with a small piece of


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fresh butter, frequently replenishing the water, until the to barley is tender and of the proper consistency. It will improve the barley if it is to be used in the sick-room to first scald it several times. After it is cooked, season with salt, finely chopped parsley or nutmeg; the latter is preferable when there is stomach trouble.

Sweet Barley Broth is made by stirring into the broth through a fine sieve, the barley which has first been cooked until tender, add to the soup thus thickened salt and sugar, and stir into it the yolk of an egg. Barley broth made in this manner is excellent in cases of dysentery and diarrhrea.

85. Oatmeal Soup for Invalids. Fresh oatmeal is rinsed in hot and cold water alternately until the water remains clear, then cook the oatmeal 1 hour with a pinch of salt and 2 tablespoonfuls of fresh almonds, either pounded finely or grated, together with the necessary quantity of water, pass through a sieve and put in some sugar and toast.

86. Toast soup for Invalids. Very finely pounded toast is cooked with water and the juice of 1 lemon, until it no longer sinks, add sugar and a trifle of salt, and if permitted by the physician, stir in the yolk of an egg.

87. Bread Soup for Invalids. Take rye bread and wheat bread half and half, and thoroughly cook in water, stir through a fine sieve and cook again with some salt, sugar, lemon juice and either currants or raisins until the latter are soft, and, if permitted by the physician, stir into it a little wine and the yolk of an egg.

88. Another Bread Soup for Invalids is made by taking rye bread only, grating it and then browning in a frying pan without any fat until dry, pour on enough water to make a thick pulp and let it stand for an hour on the back part of the stove, then stir the pulp with hot milk until itis smooth, add sugar and salt and the yolk of an egg. As a matter of precaution it will be well to stir this soup through a fine sieve before serving.

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> V. FRUIT SOUPS.

89. Strawberry Soup. Cook some finely pounded toast in water until thick, add wine, sugar and cinnamon, and in case the soup is not of the proper consistency put in some cornstarch smoothed in water. Then take from the fire and stir into the soup according to its quantity a number of saucerfuls of ripe strawberries which have been sugared 1 hour before. This soup is served with biscuits or toast.

90. Cherry Soup. Take sour cherries and cook them with some toast and lemon peel or 2-3 cloves and the required quantity of water, until the cherries are pulpy. Strain, put on the stove and bring to a boil again and serve after adding sugar, a little salt, cinnamon and claret, which must not cook. Sweet cakes can be put on the soup or it may be served with biscuits.

In the winter this soup can be made with dried cherries which are first cooked with some oatmeal and a few slices of lemon, before straining. Afterwards follow the above directions.

91. Apple Soup. Cook in water a soupplateful of sour apples (which have been cut into very small pieces), with a cupful of scalded rice until soft, pass through a sieve, add sugar, cinnamon, lemon peel and some salt, cook again and stir into it the yolk of an egg.

92. Apple Soup with Currants. Cook some wheat bread with the apples, and after passing through a sieve add some grated rye bread which has first been fried in butter, then put in the currants and a very few cloves and some salt, cook for a short time and stir into the soup cinnamon and a spoonful of thick cream.

93. Plum Soup. Stone a soupplateful of plums and cook in water with wheat bread until soft, pass through a sieve, then cook with the addition of some sugar and cinnamon, and serve with buttered toast placed in the tureen.

94. Plum Soup with Milk. This is a nice soup for the supper table and is made by taking a soupplateful of ripe plums, rub thoroughly to clean them, stir 2


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heaping tablespoonfuls of flour in water until smooth, add 3 pints of milk and some salt, put on the fire with the plums and cook for a short time, stirring frequently until the flour is well cooked. The plums may burst but must not become pulpy. If they are entirely ripe no sugar need be added. The soup must be nicely bound, and is brought to the table when nearly cold.

95. Prune Soup for Invalids. Wash the prunes, cut them up, put them on the fire (with about half the quantity of oatmeal added) in an earthenware vessel in water, with sugar, cinnamon, lemon peel and a pinch of salt and cook slowly until all is soft. Strain, bring to a boil once more and stir up with the yolks of 2 eggs which have been whipped in 1 glassful of wine. A few of the prunes can be cooked separately and put into the soup at last.

96. Soup made from Dried Prunes. Wash the prunes nicely, rubbing them between the hands. Scald thoroughly, and then cook in water with lemon peel and a little wheat bread until soft, pass through a sieve stirring with sugar, cinnamon and, according to taste, a glassful of wine. Serve over toast placed in the tureen.
For invalids omit the wine, spices and toast.

97. Mixed Fruit Soup for Invalids. Take huckleberries, strawberries, raspberries and stoned cherries in equal proportions. After picking them over and washing, mash them as finely as possible, pour on as much water as will make the required quantity of soup, boil slowly for 1/2 hour and strain; after bringing to a boil again, add sugar, extract of lemon, a pinch of salt and enough flour, which has been smoothed in cider, to bring the soup to the proper consistency. Stir through the soup the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

> COLD SOUPS.

98. Wine Cold Soup. 1 hour before serving put into the tureen macaroons or small sweet crackers (if


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large,break them into pieces) and add sliced lemon without the seeds, a few pieces of cinnamon, white wine and water half and half, sweetened with sugar.

99. Orange Cold Soup. Take various fruit syrups, wine and water half and half, a few pieces of cinnamon, and oranges which are first peeled, divided into 8 parts and turned in sugar. The sweet crackers put into this soup are first slightly soaked in wine but they must not become mushy; they are then covered with sugar, built up in little piles and passed as a side dish.

100. Apricot Cold Soup. Skin and stone the apricots and then cook them in water, being careful not to get them too soft, together with some of the apricot stones, cinnamon and plenty of sugar; put one-half of this into the tureen and pass the remainder with the broth through a fine sieve, and when cool add as much wine as water was used in the soup, sweeten with plenty of sugar and pour over the apricots. Crackers or toast are passed with the soup.

101. Cherry Cold Soup. Stone a soupplateful of sour cherries and cook them for 15 minutes in 1 quart of water together with 2-3 cloves and a few of the kernels of the cherry pits; then strain through a fine sieve and after it is cold put in ] pint of claret, plenty of sugar and some cinnamon. Sweet crackers can either be broken into or passed with the soup. A cream froth (see directions under Division N) can be put into the soup.

102. Strawberry and Raspberry Cold Soup. The strawberries are first, if necessary, rinsed with water in a colander; this is not required with the raspberries. Put the berries into the tureen, odd plenty of sugar, cover tightly and let it stand for 1 hour: then mix white wine and water half and half with sugar, the juice of a lemon and ground cinnamon; pour over the berries.

103. Sago or Rice Cold Soup. Scald 1/4 of a pound of fine sago or rice, and then cook in writer without stirring until soft and thick; the grains must remain whole; then pour into the tureen. Strew on it plenty


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of sugar cinnamon and grated lemon peel and add nicely washed currants; scald these and pour in the liquor. When cold, add 1 bottle of claret and the same quantity of water sweetened with sugar.

104. Beer Cold Soup. Stale grated rye bread, plenty of rinsed and scalded currants without the liquor, cinnamon, a slice of lemon, beer (which must not be bitter), and sugar according to taste.

105. Westphalian Cold Soup. Take grated stale rye-bread and whipped thick sour cream, and stir brown beer (which must not be bitter), sugar, cinnamon and the grated bread into the whipped cream.

106. Buttermilk Cold Soup. Grate rye bread and slightly brown it; for each 4 spoonfuls of bread add 2 spoonfuls of sugar, then again brown the whole lightly, stirring constantly. After this stir into the buttermilk some sweet cream or milk; shortly before serving crumble into it crackers or wheat bread and finally strew over it the bread after it has cooled. This cold soup is very palatable and refreshing.

107. Whipped Cream. Thick sweet cream is shaken to a froth in a shaker or whipped in any convenient vessel, but this should be done in the cellar or some other cool place. Then stir through it sugar and vanilla and serve with crackers and grated rye bread.

The vanilla can be put into the cream a few hours beforehand to draw, or else pound fine with sugar, thus requiring less vanilla.

108. Whipped Sour Cream. For this purpose the milk should be thick but its cream must be smooth, through, it sugar in the preceding receipt, and stir trough, it sugar and cinnamon.

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> C.--Potatoes and other Vegetables.

> I. VEGETABLES.

1. Hints on cooking Vegetables. It is of such frequent occurrence that vegetables, which form so important and nutritious articles of food, are neglected in their preparation and cooking, that a few hints in this direction may be found useful and not out of place.

Cleanliness. Although before alluded to in the introduction to this book, the necessity of perfect cleanliness in. respect to the utensils used for cooking and in cleaning the vegetables is again brought to your attention. But caution should be exercised not to leave them lying in water too long, because thereby the valuable salts they contain are extracted; particularly tuberous vegetables and celery rooty, parsley, etc., should never be soaked in water.

How to economize in using Butter and how to rapidly cook Vegetables tender. To obtain a very palatable dish of vegetables and to have them done without cooking them too long a time, the following directions will be found serviceable. When the price of butter is unreasonably high, good kidney fat, prepared according to A, 17, will be found an excellent substitute for creamery butter when cooking most lands of vegetables, without impairing their flavor. Put the fat in the water before putting- in the vegetables, and when these are taken from the fire, merely drop a lew pieces of butter over them, which will impart a nice butter


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flabor and the liquor wil become mus smoothe. If fat from roast is used, this can also be put into the boiling water and some bitter ,oxed through it at the last. Lard, goose grease and mutton fat, which can also be profitably used as already explained in the first part of the book must, however, be put on the fire in cold water and be cooked thoroughly before the vegetables are put in the kettle.

In the meantime, the carefully cleaned and rinsed vegetables are put on a colander to drain; the entire quantity of vegetables should not be thrown into the kettle at one time, but, on the contrary, put them in gradually with the skimmer, but the water must be brought to a boil each time. In scalding vegetables this method should also be observed, because they will then become tender much sooner than if the cooking is delayed by putting in too large a quantity at a time. Salt should be added during the latter half of the time taken for cooking (except in the case of peas, beans, etc.); strew it over the vegetables uniformly and cover tightly and let the cooking go on uninterruptedly. Replenishing the water should be avoided as much as possible; careful attention will soon teach one the necessary quantity needed, but it ia always better to take rather too little than too much. Always have enough boiling water handy for replenishing purposes.

Many vegetables must first be scalded on account of then- strong flavor or perhaps their acrid taste; of course, some of their nutritive properties are thereby lost in the water. Scalding should, therefore, not be resorted to unnecessarily but be minimized as much as possible. When scalding vegetables, which require a rather long time in cooking before they are tender, for instance in the case of vegetables preserved for Winter use, water must be used rather plentifully and boiling water for replenishing purposes should also be provided for, because cold water is not adapted for it.

To preserve the fresh color of vegetables. Spinach, green peas, sorrel, Brussels sprouts, ect., should always be boiled uncovered over a hot fire so that they will become tender rapidly and thus preserve their fresh green color.

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To cook preserved Beans and Cabbages tender rapidly. Vegetables preserved for Winter use--beans and cabbage--should be cooked until quite tender and freshened in boiling soft water as long as is necessary. Vegetables in salt or brine become tender very rapidly after taking them out of the receptacle in which they are contained and cooked without being freshened in boiling water. Do not change the water until the vegetables are almost done.

When Vegetable Dishes should be thickened. Several kinds of vegetables should be thickened with flour or the yolks of eggs only when they are almost done.

Particular care should be taken to cook all vegetables until they are quite tender and juicy, but they should never be stirred enough to become pulpy and mushy. If fat and salt are added at the time directed, no stirring is necessary because they are absorbed equally well by the vegetables without stirring. How long a time is required for cooking each variety of vegetables cannot be designated with any degree of exactness, because this depends entirely upon their quantity and quality, and also upon the condition of the fire; nevertheless, the cooking time has been given as approximately correct as possible in each receipt. Vegetables, grown in dry seasons require a longer time on the fire and this circumstance should, therefore, always be taken into account.

Warmed over Dishes. All varieties of cabbages and turnips are also good when warmed over, but it will improve them to first bring water or meat broth to a boil and then putting in the vegetables. Do not neglect to add some parsley, salt, sugar or butter according to the variety of the vegetables. If the better kinds of vegetables, such tin green peas, beans, oyster plant, etc., are to be warmed over, follow the above directions, and then put them into a double kettle until they are thoroughly heated.

Serving. Only spinach and similar vegetables are smoothed with a knife when they are served. All other vegetables should be arranged neatly in the dish in


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which they come to the table, without pressing them; being careful to wipe off the edges, and have the dish warm.

2. Salsify or Oysterplant. Scrape thoroughly, stir a spoonful of flour or some sweet milk in water and lay the salsify in this, which will prevent it from turing black. Put on the fire in an enameled kettle with meat broth and butter and boil until tender, adding the necessary salt, but not too much. 15 minutes before serving add grated crackers or browned flour, and mace according to taste. Before bringing to the table meat dumpling are added to the dish, which is served either with boiled beef or without any side dish.

The salsify can also be boiled in salted water with a little vinegar until tender; serve with either a thick asparagus or Hollandaise sauce, or else make a sauce from browned flour and butter, meat broth, lemon juice, mace and parsley and stew the salsify in this.

In England the salsify is boiled until tender in salted water and then shaken on the fire with butter, grated parmesan cheese and ground pepper until the butter and cheese are melted; in South Germany it is usually cut into pieces, dipped in a batter and fried in hot lard.

3. Brussels Sprouts. The sprouts or buds are picked when fresh and closed, and the dried leaves and hard knots cut from the stalk, being careful not to break up the small buds; scald them in boiling water with salt, using as little water as possible, take them out with a skimmer and put them on a colander to drain, covering tightly so that they will remain hot. Before serving put them on a slow fire with a piece of butter, salt, nutmeg and a few bread crumbs, and as soon as hot turn them in the kettle several times,--Brussel sprouts may also be put into the dish, which should of course be warm; immediatly after the water has been poured off, put a peice of butter between and over the sprouts.

Time for cooking is a short 15 minutes.

Smoked or roasted beef tongue, small sausages, cutlets, croquets, meat balls, or ham fritters can be served as a side dish.

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4. Spinach. Spinach must be carefully picked over and rinsed 3 or 4 times in a deep vessel in plenty of cold water. In order to retain its rich green color, scald it for about 5 minutes in boiling water with some salt, leaving the kettle uncovered, then put it into cold water at once, pour it onto a colander, press well with skimmer and chop until very fine. Then melt some kidney suet or butter, stir a little flour or some bread crumbs with it, put in the spinach, adding nutmeg and some butter, and cook with frequent stirring until done, putting in as much salt as may be found necessary, and, perhaps a small quantity of meat broth or water.

Some people consider the taste of spinach as being rather insipid; for such it should be seasoned by adding a trifle of chives, or onions fried in butter.

Spinach can be garnished in various ways; the simplest is to take bits of toasted bread and medium soft boiled eggs, quartered. A richer method is to first put on a border of baked crullers which have been formed in a thick mass, by means of melted butter and cheese; then inside of the border cover with plain fried eggs, each one surrounded by a ring of finely chopped cooked tongue. Serve small roasted potatoes as a side dish.

Omelets, croquets, fricandeaus, small sausages, roast or smoked beef tongue, kidney slices, crullers with a ham forcemeat or fried liver are all good side dishes with spinach.

5. Spinach, Saxony Style. Cook the spinach in salt water with an onion, chop it up with a boned anchovy very fine, brown some flour in melted butter, stir in as much meat broth as is necessary, then cook the spinach until well done and garnish with eggs.

6. Spinach, French Style. Cook the spinach as above directed and chop very fine. Stir some butter to a froth, add the finely grated yolks of hard boiled eggs, some nutmeg and salt, and stir all of this with the spinach on tho fire, until it begins to boil.

Spinach prepared in this manner is greatly improved by the addition of a few spoonfuls of dark meat broth. Fried sliced sweetbreads are served as a side dish.

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7. Spinach with Rice. Scald about 1/2 pound of rice in water sereral times, then boil it in milk or week meat broth until soft, stir into it 3 whipped eggs and a few spoonfuls of sour cream. Four quarts of spinach are cooked in the meantime according to the directions previously given, chopped very fine and allowed to simmer melted butter; then season with ground pepper and crated cheese and mix with it a few spoonfull of crated wheat bread. The rice and spinach are separately pressed into a buttered mould, afterwards bake for 30 minutes, turn out of the cups, pour over it a dark meat broth and serve with roast spring chicken or veal cutlets.

8. Moulded Spinach. Spinach left over from the table is mixed with the yolks of 2 eggs, several spoonfuls of white gravy, grated wheat bread and a few finely chopped stewed mushrooms; mould the mass in small cups which have first been buttered, cook in a double kettle for 1/2 hour, turn out of the cups and serve with roast potatoes and baked ham.

9. Spinach Stalks cooked as a Vegetable. After the spinach has run to seed and is no longer good for cooking purposes, the stalks should be stripped, cut up, cook them until soft, soak, press tightly and simmer slowly the same as cauliflower (see No. 38).

Time of cooking, 1 hour.

10. Dandelions. In the Spring of the year the dandelion grows as a weed on many lawns and fields; when young and tender it makes a very palatable dish, if cooked in the same manner as directed for spinach.

11. Sorrel. Strip the large fresh leave from the stems. Then rinse the leaves in plenty of water several times until perfectly free from sandy perticles. Put on the stove in cold eater and throw on a conlander just before it begins to cook, otherwise it is apt to become too soft. After the acid has been absorbed by the cold water and the sorrel has been well drained and pressed out with the skimmer on the colander, lightly brown butter and some flour and add a few cupfuls of sweet cream or milk into which the yolks of 1-2 eggs have been stirred, also salt and nutmeg, and cook the sorrel


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in this thoroughly. The broth should be scant and of a nice consistency and not watery. Garnish with bits of toasted bread. Time of cooking, 1/2 hour.

Side-dishes: cutlets, tongue, smoked meats, boiled ham, liver, kidney slices fish omelets, roast or stewed lamb.

12. Endives. Bleached endive leaves are among the nicest winter vegetables. Cut away the stalks and green leaves and boil the inner yellow leaves in salted water, cool in cold water, press them out and chop them fine. Then stew for 1/2 hour in a strong meat broth which has been thickened with lightly browned flour. Season with nutmeg, put in a little lemon juice and if desired, the yolks of a few eggs may be stirred into it.

The endives can be stewed in a cream sauce instead of the meat broth, or else after having been prepared according to either one of the described methods, pass through a sieve, stir with butter and serve as a puree. Serve with cutlets of all kinds, fried liver, meat balls, sweetbreads or spring chicken.

13. Greens from Stems and Stalks of Turnips and Beet Tops. Strip off the leaves (when quite young the stalks can be prepared unstripped) wash and cut the stems and cook in slightly salted water until tender. After draining cut the stalks very finely, brown some flour in butter very lightly, cook this either in milk or the broth of pickled meat, stew in it the greens until done and season with nutmeg. If the broth from pickled meat is used it should be first examined to see that it is not too salty.

Serve with cutlets, scallops, meat balls, boiled or raw ham and kidney slices.

14. Greens as above for the Family Table. First boil a piece of smoked bacon or fat pork for an hour, put some potatoes in the broth and then add the meat and the greens which have been cooked until tender and are well drained, salt and cook thoroughly until done. Then take out the meat and stir into the greens, according to quantity, 1 to 3 grated raw potatoes ; this thickens the dish nicely and gives it a bright appearance, but it must not be cooked long enough to become dry.

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Instead of cooking meat in the greens, sliced smoked bacon may be slightly fried on a slow fire, then take some of its fat and add to the greens, and serve the bacon separately. This is not only economical, but is preferred by a great many.

15. Asparagus. Scrape the coarse skin from each blade and cut from the bottom as much as is hard. A better way still is as follows: slit the outer skin from the bottom upwards and take it off at once; a little practice will enable one to do this rapidly. Then wash the asparagus, tie into bunches, making the tips even and cutting the lower ends all of one length. Cook with a little salt in not too much water, which should boil moderately, otherwise the tips will become too soft. The addition to the salt water of a pinch of sugar and a piece of butter the size of a hazelnut gives the asparagus a very delicious taste. As soon as the lower ends become tender (the usual time for tips is 1/4 of an hour and for the whole blade 1/2 hour) put the bunches on a heated platter, cut the bands and serve.

Serve with either an asparagus sauce (see under R) or pass with it melted butter; frequently the grated yolks of hard boiled eggs accompany the butter.

In South Germany cream sauces are preferred; in England the asparagus is placed on large pieces of toast, and melted butter, into which the yolks of 3 eggs have been stirred, is poured over it; sometimes parmesan cheese is grated over it, and fried eggs laid on top. Appropriate side dishes are cutlets, roast poultry, meat balls scrambled eggs, raw ham and smoked salmon.

It should be noted that asparagus must never be permitted to lay in water.

16. Stewed Asparagus. Scrape or peel the asparagus, cut into pieces, lay aside the tips and cook the rest until half done, because these pieces sometimes have a slightly bitter taste then bring meat broth with a good sized piece of butter, a trifle of mace and some salt to a boil; put into this all of the asparagus pieces and let it simmer slowly until soft. Shortly before serving add some crushed toast and stir into the broth the yolks of a few eggs. Serve neatly garnishing with bread dumplings and pour the thick broth over all.

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Side dishes the same as above, with the exception of scrambled eggs.

The asparagus tips prepared alone make a very nice dish. Cook them until soft in a scant meat broth with the addition of salt and some butter. In the meantime prepare a cream sauce and have it ready so that the broth in which the tips are being cooked need only be brought to a boil, when the tips are placed on a warm platter and set over a vessel containing hot water. Then immediately pour over the sauce, garnish with medium soft boiled whole eggs, and serve with pickled tongue.

17. Asparagus with young Carrots. Take a quantity of young carrots, rub them in salt, wash and scrape them until clean and cut into 2 or 3 pieces; cook the carrots with the same quantity of asparagus according to the preceding receipt and serve in the same manner without the yolks of eggs.

18. Imperial (Kaiser) Asparagus. Cook the asparagus until tender as directed in No. 15, then whip in 1 pint of Rhinewine the yolks of 8 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of butter, a little salt and a pinch of sugar in a double kettle to a thick sauce, serve the asparagus on a hot platter with this sauce poured over it.

19. Asparagus in Rusks, (an elegant Entree). Peel the asparagus, take the tips only, cook in salted water until done. Make a thick sauce from veal broth thickened with lightly browned flour and batter, adding some finely chopped parsley; the tips are heated in this and then stir them with the yolks of a few eggs beaten up with cream. Soak small rusks after removing the crust, hollow them out and fill with the asparagus, tie the crusts over them as a cover and toast in butter until nicely browned. The ends of the asparagus together with the broth and some extract of beef will make an excellent soup.

20. Leipzig Hotch Potch. This dish is the most palatable during the asparagus season. Take the following early vegetables in equal quantities and took each kind separately until done: asparagus in water with some salt, small carrots in beef broth, shelled


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green peas in water with a small piece of butter, kohlrabi in water with a little salt, and cauliflower the same as kohlrabi. As soon as everything is thoroughly cooked, put it all into the dish carefully placing the cauliflower on top, and mix through all the claws and tails of crabs. The shells of the crabs are filled with force meat made from the meat of the crabs and pie-crust dough. While preparations for serving are going on, place the vegetables over a steaming vessel, and then drench with a butter sauce made from cream and crab butter half and half, stirring into it the yolks of eggs. Garnish with the stuffed crab shells and little bread dumplings.

21. Early Carrots. Early carrots are scraped very lightly, and if quite young simply rub with a coarse towel; they are left whole and nicely rinsed but not laid into the water. Then cook them in boiling water with some sugar, butter and a very little salt (they can easily be oversalted) in a scant broth until done. Before serving dredge over them 1/4 teaspoonful of flour and put in some finely chopped parsley leaves.

The carrots can also first be stewed for about 10 minutes in butter, shaking them, then add some sugar, a small bunch of parsley, salt and a little lightly browned flour and butter, simmer slowly until tender, and serve after taking out the parsley. Sometimes an onion also added, but this is objectionable to people with delicate palates.

Time of cooking, 1 hour. Serve with cutlets of various kinds, baked meat balls, fried pork sausages, smoked and salted tongue.

22. Young Carrots and Peas. Put the carrots on the fire as above directed in boiling water with some butter. Then add the shelled peas, take half of each kind of vegetable and proceed as directed above. Shortly before serving a few bread dumplings may be added, but in this case more broth (which can be thickened with a little cornstarch) must be provided for.

23. Green Peas. Put plenty of butter in water and let it boil, throw in the shelled peas gradually, keeping the broth boiling. Peas must cook in plenty of broth rapidly; cooking them too slowly or for too long time,


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or letting them stand too long when done greatly impairs their flavor. Shortly before serving add some salt but not too much, because they are easily over-salted, and, if they are not sweet enough, put in a small lump of sugar. Stir into them finely chopped parsley, and cornstarch or flour smoothed in water (a quarter of a teaspoonful at a time). Or instead of this, knead flour and butter into a small dumpling and put this with the peas as soon as they begin to boil; it dissolves gradually, thickens the broth somewhat and imparts a pleasant flavor to the peas. If there is abundant broth, little sponge or bread dumplings can be cooked with it at the last. The preparation of dumplings is described under Division O.

Peas can also be cooked as directed in the second receipt for carrots, or, after boiling them in salt water, they may be stewed in a cream sauce or else drench in butter and scatter chopped parsley over them.--For a particularly fine dish the peas may be garnished with the tails of crabs or stuffed crab shells.

Peas are served with roast spring chicken, veal cutlets, croquettes, raw ham, hot or cold tongue, smoked salmon, fried eels and other crisply fried fish.

Remark.--To retain the fine aromatic flavor of the peas they must be freshly picked, and in no case should they be shelled sooner than shortly before wanted for cooking.

24. Green Peas boiled with Spring Chicken and Crabs. Cook the chicken in salt water until all the scum has been taken off, then put in a piece of butter and cook slowly until tender. As soon as the broth is strong enough, put a large piece of butter into another kettle, put in the shelled peas, cover and let them simmer for a while, stirring them occasionally. Then fill up with part of the chicken broth, cook the peas until tender, stir through it some finely chopped parsley, and thicken the broth with a few egg yolks, whipped with a tablespoonful of water. Have ready some crabs with dressing and some crab butter, as directed under A, No. 37, and No. 9, also a lot of wheat bread dumplings. Carve the chicken nicely, place in the center of the dish, surrounded by the peas, then put in the dumplings and filled crabs, put in between them the claws and tails and


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pour over the whole the crab butter. Serve as an entree.

Time of cooking is the same as given for preceding vegetables.

25. Green Peas with Codfish (a favorite dish in Saxony). Cook the peas in a meat broth and butter until tender, then add some lightly browned flour and butter and sufficient salt; the codfish, together with some chopped parsley is then stirred through the broth, which must not be too plentiful, because the addition of the codfish in itself increases the quantity of broth. The codfish should be prepared in advance early enough as directed for cooking fish in another part of the book, take off the skin, bone and pick into small pieces, stir in plenty of melted butter, put on the stove, but do not allow it to stew or simmer, and then mix it through the peas.

26. Sweet Peas. The small variety is the best, those with long pods are not so nice. Sweet peas need not be shelled, simply string them carefully and wash thoroughly, cook in boiling water with butter and salt and finally stir through them some chopped parsley and some cornstarch smoothed in water. Time of cooking, from 1 to 1 1/4 hours.

Smoked meats, fried sausages, fried liver, baked fish, etc., are served with the peas.

27. Mixed Vegetables for a Dinner Party. Quarter pigeons or spring chickens, boil in salt water until free from scum, then add some butter,mace and some nicely browned flour and cook slowly. In the meantime carefully peel plenty of asparagus and cauliflower and cut into pieces; both are then cooked in salt water until half done. Pour the vegetables on a sieve to drain and then put in with the pigeons and cook until completely done. Be careful to keep the pieces whole. After this cook a lot of crabs in boiling water for 15 minutes, pick the meat from the shells and prepare crab butter from the shells of the claws and the tails, according to A, No 9. Lay the crab tails aside the claws is chopped with butter a small quantity of wheat bread crumbs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 egg, some nutmeg and salt, and made into forcemeat; stuff a few of the crab shells with the forcemeat and cook


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them together with little meat or wheat bread dumplings in meat broth until done. Put the fowls with the vegetables into the dish. Stir the yolks of a few eggs into the sauce, add a little lemon juice, the tails of the crabs and some dumplings, garnish with the stuffed crab shells and put the crab butter over all.

This dish is excellent without the crabs, which, while adding to its elegance, cause some trouble in its preparation. It will take fully two hours to prepare this dish.

28. Early Turnips. It is best to cut the turnips into either large cubes or into narrow slices; they are occasionally bitter, and should therefore be scalded in boiling water; then put them on the fire in boiling meat broth or, with fat, in water, observing that this vegetable in itself contains a large percentage of water and consequently needs but a small addition of it, cook until tender, putting in the salt later on, then add 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoonful of cornstarch smoothed in water or sprinkle some flour into the broth from the side and put a few pieces of butter on top; if meat broth is not used put in 1/4 of a teaspoonful of extract of beef. After the turnips are served, grate nutmeg over them and serve boiled potatoes as a side dish.

The potatoes can also be cooked with the turnips and should be put into the kettle with the turnips when the latter are half done.

Pork or mutton chops and fried sausages are served with the turnips.

29. Early Turnips with Mutton. The mutton is either cut into cubes as for a stew, or else washed off whole and boiled in not too much salted water until the scum ceases to rise. After cooking for an hour pass the broth through a sieve, clean the kettle and bring the broth with the meat to a boil again. Then the meat can be either cooked in the broth until entirely done and the turnips also without being scalded if quite sweet, but if bitter, scald them and then cook until done with some of the mutton broth, putting in a few small potatoes at once if desired, or the turnips may be boiled together with the mutton.

Time of cooking the mutton is from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours.

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30. Mixed Vegetables with Mutton, English style. Take a tender breast of mutton and cut it in cubes as for a ragout, rinse thoroughly and boil, until scum no longer appears, in sufficient salt water to cook the veg-tables. In the meantime slice string beans into small pieces, cut up savoy cabbage into pieces the size of half an egg, and carrots into cubes after they have been well washed and cleaned. After again carefully rinsing the latter they are put into the kettle with the mutton, the first two kinds of vegetables, however, are previously boiled for a short time and then also put in with the mutton; add what salt may still be needed and some pepper; cover the kettle and cook until all is tender, nicely bound and juicy, but the vegetables must not be cooked to a pulp.

31. Spanish mixed Vegetables or Hotch Potch. Very palatable and nutritious. Cover a stewpan with slices of fat pork, cut equal parts of lamb and beef into cubes, kohlrabi into slices and separate the leaves of a savoy cabbage. Fill the kettle with the meat and vegetables in alternate layers, sprinkling salt and pepper on each layer. Put in some butter and pour a cupful of meat broth over all. Put on top a few small smoked sausages, cover the stewpan as tightly as possible and then let it cook slowly until done, which will take all of two hours. Serve neatly, garnishing with peeled roast potatoes placed around the edge of the dish and cutting the sausages into slices and laying them on top.

32. String Beans. Take beans that are tender but not too young, and wash them nicely. Cook the beans in plenty of boiling water, putting in the beans gradually as directed under No. 1 of this division, or else cook them over a quick fire in an uncovered kettle until quite tender in milk and water half and half, skimming carefully. Salt is added when the beans are about half done but not before. After they are quite tender pour them into an earthenware colander (tinware will give the beans a bad color), pour boiling water over them and cover quickly; they thereby retain their natural color, but be careful that they remain nicely hot. Before serving stir lightly with plenty of butter and parsley, or else pour hot melted butter with parsley over the


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dish when bringing it to the table. Time of cooking, 1 hour.

Serve with either boiled ham, spare ribs or bacon.

33. Another Method. Cut some bacon into cubes, fry slowly, and lightly brown some flour in it. Then stir with boiling water, a small piece of butter and salt; the beans which have first been boiled until tender and drained are then rapidly stewed until done, together with some chopped parsley or savory, care being taken that they do not become pulpy or stirred to pieces. Sliced pork can be lightly fried (see No. 14), stir the fat through the beans and lay the slices on the top.

Or, cook a piece of lean pork, take off the fat, heat it in another vessel until boiling hot, lightly brown a little flour in it, stir into it some of the pork broth, cook the beans in this as above directed and serve with the pork.

If the beans are old and have tough skins, they should first be cooked until half done, when they can be hulled; afterwards cook them as above directed.

34. Stewed Lettuce. Pick the heads over carefully and wash very thoroughly. Cook in plenty of boiling water, putting in a little cooking soda, pour on a colander then let it stand for about 1 hour in water to extract any bitterness there may be in the lettuce, press out and chop finely. Brown a little flour, grated toast or crackers in good fat, and add to this the lettuce, together with some boiling water, a small piece of butter, salt and nutmeg and then stew until done.

Another way is to take young lettuce and boil until tender, press it out, do not chop it but stew with milk and then proceed as directed in No. 14. Serve with veal meat balls, fried liver, cutlets, kidneys, baked fish, meat omelets, etc.

35. Vegetables with Barley Groats for the Family Table. Cut up several kohlrabi, together with parsley, celery and other roots, string beans and sliced onions, put on the fire with some water and soup fat, salt, season with spices and cook until half done. Then cook in this broth with the vegetables barley groats which have first been scalded and simmered until half done. When everything is thoroughly cooked stir through it fried


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pork cut into little cubes, and serve with poached eggs put on the dish, smoked bacon, spare ribs, beef roasted in a kettle.

36. Kohlrabi. After washing and peeling, cut them into fine slices or pieces, being careful to remove everything that is tough or hard, and then cook in boiling water until tender. Brown some flour in kidney fat or butter, add either fresh milk or meat broth according to taste, and also nutmeg and salt as desired, in which the kohlrabi is to be stewed. If the kohlrabi is quite young and tender, the small inner leaves are chopped quite fine, cooked in a separate vessel, butter and meat broth stirred through them and then used to garnish a dish of kohlrabi that has been stewed like cauliflowers. If the leaves are not tender enough for this purpose, then sliced sweetbreads or little pork sausages can be used to garnish, or else serve with cutlets, meat balls or steak.

Time of cooking, 1 1/2 hours.

REMARK.--The blue kohlrabi is preferable to the white because it is milder and does not become tough so easily as the other kind.

37. Filled Kohlrabi (as an Entremet). Peel the kohlrabi nice and round, and cook until partly done in weak salt water. Cut a slice from the end, hollow out the kohlrabi in cupform, fill with a good veal forcemeat, close by tieing on the slice that has been cut from the end, and then put them into a low kettle with the covered ends to the top, adding boiling meat broth, a good sized piece of butter and salt if necessary; then cook until done.

When serving put them on the dish with care, cutting the threads with which the covers were tied, stir some cornstarch into the broth and pour it over the kohlrabi. About 2 hours time will be necessary for the preparation of this dish.

38. Cauliflowers. Trim the stalk carefully, cut the smaller leaves away with a sharp-pointed knife, leaving the flowers whole; then lay into salt water which will expel any insects that may lurk in the vegetable. Cook slowly in not too much boiling water with salt, a piece of butter, and lemon juice until tender--but not soft--


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and in order to prevent its not going to pieces lift it out with a clean napkin, put it carefully on a colander, drain well and cover immediately. Put it in a round dish with the flower to the top.

In Germany it is customary to pour over it a thick crab sauce, a cream or a tart egg sauce; the English style is to simply pour over it melted butter and cover it with grated bread crumbs with a little grated nutmeg.

Serve with small sausages, beef tongue, raw ham, roast spring chicken, stuffed breast of veal, smoked salmon, forcemeat balls, meat fritters, kidney croquettes or pork sausages.

Time of cooking. 1 1/4 hours.

39. Cauliflowers with Parmesan Cheese. After cooking the cauliflowers set them into the proper dish, pour over them a thick cream sauce into which has been stirred a handful of Parmesan cheese, and afterwards cover it with grated Parmesan cheese. Pour over it melted butter and then bake in the same dish in a moderately hot oven until it receives a rich color.

In some kitchens broccoli, which is a species of cauliflower, is quite frequently cooked in its stead. The preparation of the flowers of this vegetable, which are separated into single pieces, is the same as with cauliflowers. The stalk of the broccoli can be peeled, cut into pieces, and cooked like asparagus, and it tastes quite similar to the latter.

40. Artichokes. Cut the stalks close, remove the hard leaves, and trim off the sharp points from the remaining leaves with a pair of scissors. After they have boiled for two or three hours in salted water, take out the fibres, cut off the bottom clear to the white of the artichoke and serve hot with Hollandaise sauce (Division R). In the winter artichokes filled with sweet peas (canned) are a favorite dish for genteel dinner parties.

Serve with the same dishes indicated for cauliflowers.

41. Egg Plant. Of this vegetable those shaped like a cucumber and of a violet color, and the white kinds are considered the best, but both varieties must be


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thoroughly ripe otherwise they are quite apt to have a bitter taste.

To cook them first cut into halves the long way make a few incisions into the pieces, turn them in bread crumbs, melted butter, pepper and salt and then brown slightly in the frying pan. Or else cut into slices, season with salt and a little pepper, brown lightly with butter in a frying pan and serve with tomato sauce. If the egg plants are pickled for a few hours in vinegar, salt and water, they can be made into a very appetizing salad by the addition of either eggs, cresses, etc., with vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper.

42. Butter Beans. String carefully, wash and put them into boiling water gradually. Put in the salt when the beans are more than half done, then cook until quite tender and put them on an earthenware colander to drain. Serve with an egg or butter sauce (see Division R). Time of cooking, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours.

Fresh herring, raw or boiled ham, pork chops, escallops, sausages, fried meat balls are usually served with this vegetable.

43. Another method of cooking Butter Beans. Clean and string the beans as usual, b