Hotel Keepers, Head Waiters, and Housekeepers' Guide.Campbell, Tunis GulicWaiters. Cookery, American. African American cookery.Dinner. Drill. Division of Work. Lunches. Dress. Regulations for General and Squad Drills. General Remarks. Explanation of Plates. Courses. Recipes. Conclusion. Certificates.Boston: Coolidge and Wiley.Electronic edition created by Digital & Multimedia Center, Michigan State University Libraries, East Lansing, Michigan, 2002-2003.Supplementary material by Jan Longone, Anne-Marie Rachman, Peter Berg, Yvonne Lockwood, and Val Berryman1848Textxml-external-parsed-entityjpegquicktimehttp://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/hotelkeepers/hote.xmlOCLC 6202429enDigitized as part of "Feeding America: The Historic American Cookbook Project." Michigan State University Libraries, East Lansing, Michigan, 2002-2003. http://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/United StatesNineteenth centuryThe book digitized here was published in the United States before 1923 and is in the public domain according to U.S. copyright law. The digital version and supplementary materials are made available for all educational uses.
This book belongs to Beatrice V. Grant.A bookplate featuring an illustration of a book lying open on a table, bathed in the light of a small desk lamp.

Beatrice V. Grant

Handwritten inscription
A portrait of an African American gentleman in a suit. The portrait is signed HARTWELL in the lower left-hand corner.
HOTEL KEEPERS,HEAD WAITERS,ANDHOUSEKEEPERS' GUIDE.BY TUNIS G. CAMPBELL.BOSTON:PRINTED BY COOLIDGE AND WILEY,12 WATER STREET.1848.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1848,BY TUNIS G. CAMPBELL,in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.

DEDICATEDTOD. D. HOWARD, ESQ.,LATE OF HOWARD'S HOTEL,NEW YORK.

 HOTEL KEEPERS,HEAD WAITERS, AND HOUSEKEEPERSGUIDE.

THIS work is intended for hotels and private families. As, truly, "order is Heaven's first law," it becomes our duty to aim at, if we cannot attain it, in all things. And it is nowhere more required than in the domestic circle. There can be nothing of more importance to a family than the careful attention of faithful servants, in whom confidence can be placed, with the assurance that to the utmost of their ability, both of will and deed, they will work for your benefit. What you put in their care you know is as safe as in your own hands; and in fact they will take better care than you would, for they feel that you have placed confidence in them, and at once they make up their minds that nothing on their part shall fail, if they have to watch when they ought to sleep.

My apology for putting this work before the public is, the evident necessity which exists for an entire change in hotel-keeping, and waiting therefor. I hope that any imperfection which may appear in the work, will not be allowed to detract from its real merits. It is not necessary for me to show the defects of the old system, to prove the necessity of a change, but merely to state my views, and leave it to the good sense of the public to decide either for or against me. All who have travelled in this country, be it ever so little, must be aware of the many inconveniences that arise from the negligence of servants at table, or in their rooms. And all of these it is my intention to remedy. To do this, it is necessary to make the interests of the servants and the proprietor one. And both parties must feel their identity. Thus a mutual good feeling becomes established; the interest of one becomes inseparable from the other; and the result is confidence and mutual dependence. Such men must be selected as heads as can fully appreciate this relation, and impart a proper understanding of it to those under their charge. I must here mention one great error, and that is, the hiring of cheap help. The very best of help should be procured, and a reasonable compensation paid them for their services. They will then look to their employer for pay, and not be the whole time striving and planning to defraud him of an hour or two, that they may make a little extra to help out their wages. When the proprietor thus pays his servants, he insures equal attention to all his guests; and persons paying their board will not have to pay for a seat at table, and then buy the attention of a waiter also. If a servant feels that he is paid to see as much to the comfort of the man that does not pay him, as to that of him who buys his attention at the table, the object at which I aim is attained; for a general satisfaction is the result; and a strife will arise as to who shall give the best satisfaction to all that may be in their seats. Each servant says to himself, I will have the name of being the best waiter in the room. And when persons mention the good conduct of waiters, let the head waiter inform the man, on the drill. This will have a very good effect. The proprietor should always discourage any thing like table-bearing or tattling among the servants, because you will always find such persons treacherous and deceitful; therefore they should always look for themselves and act with strict impartiality, and never arraign the head of a department for any misconduct, before his subordinates, as that has a tendency to weaken his authority over them.

A dining-room should be well ventilated, and so arranged that no odor from the cooking department could reach it. Yet the kitchen should be so near that meals may be passed up by forming men in a line, as they come up much better than when brought up by trays. After it is put upon the table, every dish should be examined, to see if any sauce or gravy has been slopped out.

Waiting-men should be drilled every day, except Saturday and Sunday. Saturday should be used as a general cleaning day; and Sunday we should, if possible, go to church.

To drill the men, first let your second waiter have all the men called by a whistle, and stationed where they are to wait at the table, close up to the chairs. Then make them step back one pace. When this is done, explain to the men the necessity of occupying this position. First, by standing close up to the chairs, it brings them in a straight line better than you can place them by any other means at first. Then, by stepping back one pace, they are brought again into a line; and this position they occupy when the company comes into the room; each man being careful to fall back so as to let the company all pass in front of him. This should all be carefully explained to the men.

 DINNER.

When the company are all seated, the men, still in the same position as before, wait the signal for Soup. When that is given, each man will face in the direction he is to march, and proceed in line to take two plates from a pile which will be set by the soup-tureens for the purpose, and then go back to his place and serve his people as quickly as he can. When they are through with soup, the girls in the pantry will wash all the spoons as fast as they are brought off. Then each man will take the spoons which he brought, and put them on the table in the station where he waits, as it is highly necessary to have the table well supplied with spoons for vegetables and gravies. When that is done, each man gets in his place, one pace from his chairs, when a signal must be given to attract attention and bring the men close to their chairs. The next signal will be for the purpose of raising covers; when certain men, having been instructed to act as guides, will file right and left, the rest of the men following suit, but first marching up to the place where the guide turned, before they turn; and in this way form a single line, and march out of the room. Or, if it can be done, let the two lines form in couples at the door--which will look much better. When they return, it must be in the same order as they go out.

Then Fish, Meat, and Entrees will be served in one course, unless it be an extra occasion, when the Fish will be served before the covers are raised, for which purpose potatoes and peas, if it is the season for them--but not more than two kinds of vegetables--will be prepared and passed by the waiters to all that take fish; after this clean plates will be given, and each man get in his place, to raise covers, in the manner before stated. The Meats being all served, the men again get in their places, preparatory to raising the Stands from table, which will be done in the same manner as the covers were taken. When the stands are all removed, the men again take their places, waiting the signal to remove the castors, salts, water-jugs and trimmings; after which the men will form into squads, to brush the table for Dessert,--one man with a fork and plate to gather bread, the next man with a brush for crumbs, the next with plates, another with knives, and another with forks. These men should all move as one man, except the brush and bread men, who cannot keep time so that each side of the table will be brushed at the same time. If convenient, it would be better to have a man help the second waiter put on the glasses, with spoons, for the Dessert, and cheese and crackers. Each man will then take his place as before.

If the Dessert is to be put on from both sides, which is optional with the head waiter, the men will file right and left, the same as in raising the covers, and go to the pantry for their Dessert. To insure its being put on regularly, all the men on one side must have puddings and jellies, and all on the other will take pies and confectionary. Each man, taking two dishes, proceeds to his station, facing the same way as he came in, and at the signal all face the table. At the next signal they will put on, first with the right, and then with the left hand; and so proceed, until the whole is on that belongs to the pastry, which may be summed up as follows: puddings, pies, tarts, trifles, creams, candies, pyramids, and confectionary of all kinds; and fruit may be put on with this course, such as apples, pears, peaches, plums, apricots, &c.; but if you have enough, put it on separately, on a white table-cloth, in the same order as the other courses. When it is removed raise your white cloth, and put on your dry fruit upon the table cover, which may be purple damask, or any other color that you fancy; but bright colors are best. The fruit napkins must correspond with the cloth, the same as the other napkins do with the other cloths. The finger-bowls may be as you fancy, each containing a small piece of lemon.

When this course is through, clear all off, brush down the table, remove all glasses, take the cover from the table, and pass Coffee. If gentlemen wish to smoke, it is always better to have a private room, to which they can retire, with a man stationed at the door to attend to them.

In clearing off the tables, all the men should be instructed to put every thing in its place,--silver, knives, plates, dishes, butter, bread, and glass ware; and then the room is always clean of dirty dishes and plates. To ensure this being done, when you see the least neglect, check the men on the drill for it; also when the work is well done, give them credit for it on the drill.

 DRILL.

As the plan of table-waiting has been laid down, it will be necessary to mention here, that the men should be often on drill, to enable them to understand all the signals, without making the slightest mistake. Every movement should be carefully explained upon the Drill. This should be done every day, until they understand it in every part, commencing with the first position, and proceeding till you have got the dessert on the table. The men will be drilled all together, and in squads. First the squad drill teaches them how to step, and how to carry themselves; and for this purpose you must select the most apt of them as officers, over whom should be appointed a drill serjeant, to act also as first lieutenant. Of the whole number, every fifth man should be appointed an officer, whose duty it should be to drill the men in squads every day after the regular drill, half an hour being allowed for the whole drill, which is quite sufficient. It will also be the duty of each officer of the squad, to see that his men are clean and neat in appearance; and if any are refractory, they are to be reported to the head waiter. Every Monday should be set apart as a general review day, on which the reports from the squads should be handed in, and the whole either be commended or reprimanded for their conduct during the previous week. Let each man's work be given him on the drill, and all the special and general work be examined on the drill; and if there has been any breach of rules or disobedience to orders, the offender, if he has been reprimanded by the head waiter, it not being his first offence, is to be discharged on the drill; or if discharged, the cause of discharge will be reviewed, and the rule which has been infringed explained, so that all the rest of the men may beware. The lieutenants will be held responsible for the correct performance of the different duties of their respective squads. The duties of the head waiter, with those of the subordinate officers, will be found under the regulations for the general and squad drills.

 DIVISION OF WORK.

The work of a dining-room ought to be divided so that each man would have his regular work. For instance, it would become the duty of the head waiter to have his rules and regulations of the dining-room, in print, hanging up in his pantry, where all the men could see them. He will also select and hire his men, keep a regular account of their time, and also of their fines in cases of absence, without permission, when their services are wanted. He is also to see that the rules and regulations are strictly enforced.

The second waiter will have the work divided, keep the watch list, attend to sending up all the meals, see that the tables are in readiness for all the meals, keep account of all the table linen, have the tea-table set, and in the absence of the head waiter take his place, he having discretionary power to appoint a man to act as second waiter for the time being.

The third waiter will have charge of cheese, cake, and milk. It will be his duty to have these articles put in their places for the use of the table when required. At breakfast, both cold and hot milk must be ready, the first to drink, (and also on the table for tea,) and the hot milk for coffee. These he will bring up in cans; but the watchmen will put them on the table and about the room as required. And the second waiter will attend to the cake for tea; the third waiter will therefore station only the crackers and cheese.

The fourth waiter will attend to the dessert of all kinds, and preserves for tea, with the saltcellars.

The fifth waiter will attend to the castors.

The sixth waiter will attend to the bread and napkins. He will also put out the cups and saucers.

The seventh waiter will attend to the tea and coffee, hot urns, &c.; and have the urns well dried within when emptied, that they may not rust.

The eighth waiter will always attend to the dried beef, and whatever meat may be for tea.

The hot covered dishes will, in a large house, require five men. First, the covers should be the work of one man--the dish for the meat should be the work of another--lamps for alcohol the work of another--stands the work of another, as there are more parts to them than to the other portions of the tins; or if they are silver, so much the more necessity of care. Hold each man responsible for his part of the work; this will ensure its being attended to, as he will have no one to shield himself behind.

General reports, in writing, from each branch of work, should be brought in once a week, respecting the condition and quantity of all things in the charge of each individual.

 LUNCHES.

When any Lunches are to be carried, let them be taken from the dining-room, by an order sent from the office; and when the lunch is taken, the waiter's name will be put on the order, which will be dropped into a drawer prepared for the purpose. The drawer will be cleared every morning by the head waiter; and if there has been any difficulty in any of the rooms, he can tell who waited on the room; for at the office, when an order is sent, they put down the row-tender's name, and upon the same order the head waiter or captain of the watch will put the name of the man that takes the lunch up to the room.

When any bell rings, whoever is in the office will send a row-tender, and at the same time drop a check with the row-tender's name into a drawer prepared for the purpose, which check will have the date of the month or week on it. By this means there will be no difficulty in ascertaining who has neglected his duty. When an order comes to the office, the hour it is to be served must be minuted on the order-book opposite the hour it is received at the office. Thus all the trouble of sending for servants to inquire when the order was given, who gave it, and why not attended to, is obviated.

The same men that take things up are to be held responsible, until they are returned. Strict orders should be given, that in clearing their rooms, the chambermaids are not to set any glasses or trays out into the halls or passages; but when they clear their rooms, they must get all the things out they possibly can into one of the vacant rooms, and then ring the bell for one of the row-tenders to come and take them away; as very often there may be glasses, pitchers, plates, knives, &c., which cannot be got over night.

All glasses and pitchers for the use of the chambers will be put in the care of the head row-tender, who will have a place where he can lock them up. They must be kept near the office, as that is the centre from which all orders emanate.

A list of those that come and those that leave should be regularly kept at the office, and before each meal sent to the head waiter, that he may know how many chairs to turn up at the table. Gentlemen wanting extra seats at the table will also be put down in the same book.

 DRESS.

It has been the custom to have white jackets and aprons--and they look well when clean; but with the little pay that waiters, as a general thing, receive, it is a hard matter to keep them as they ought to be. To do away with this difficulty, the jackets, aprons, and white pocket-hand-kerchiefs, (which each man should have,) should be washed in the house, and then every day your men could have no excuse for not being clean. This dress might be changed very advantageously, no doubt, for a jacket of some kind. I do not mean what is termed a livery, but such a one as might be selected--say blue, black, or green; for winter let them be cloth, and for summer some light stuff, made up in the same manner. But see that each man has his clothes perfectly clean at every meal, with boots or shoes well blacked, as the brushes and blacking of the house are free for the use of servants. Each man should also have a clean napkin or towel at every meal; and at breakfast and tea their trays should be examined by the officers of the squad to see if they are clean.

Although it is not customary to use napkins at tea, yet it ought to be done, as they are much wanted, especially by ladies; and it will not be long before they must come into general use. For this purpose I would recommend a small fancy napkin, with or without a fringe, white, or to correspond with the table, according to the fancy of persons who may be employed to buy them. As at breakfast and dinner napkins are used and folded in a great variety of ways, it is useless for me to speak any further on this subject. A separate article would be necessary to give one an understanding of the manner in which napkins should be folded.

 REGULATIONS FOR GENERAL AND SQUAD DRILLS.See the Plates.

Select men of good appearance, as near of a height as possible. Let the tallest be placed on the right. When they are formed in a line, divide them at every fifth man, and let your selection be made as before stated for lieutenants, or file leaders. Then make all mark the time, by bringing the left foot to the right heel. At the word "mark time," each man will begin; and at the word "halt," each will stop at once. Then make them divide into squads, by the file-leader placing himself by the side of the last man of his squad, the first man standing fast, and marching round until he comes in front of the last man, who faces to the front also, which will form the men into an open column, four deep. Then make them mark the time and march in column by the right flank and left, to teach them how to keep the ranks; after which halt the column and drill in squads. First teach them the step, and then make them march and countermarch until they know the words of command;--then bring them to the table, give each man his station, and make him fall back one pace from his chair. It is best to have a small wire bell, and having first explained what you wish to have done, ring the bell. The men being one pace back from their chairs, are waiting the signal for soup. Ring the bell once, when they will all face in a line towards the pantry, or table where the soup is served, and step off quickly, left foot first. No man must take more than two plates, as there is great danger of spilling the soup about. After the guests have finished their soup, let the men take off the plates and spoons, putting the plates into the baskets prepared for them, and having the spoons washed and replaced on the table in readiness for the vegetables and gravies. Now each man being in his place, one pace back from the chairs, give one stroke of the bell to attract attention, at which they will all move up close to the chairs, and at the second stroke of the bell will raise the covers from both sides of the table, and fall into line, as for soup, but will file right and left, as the effect will be better, the men all moving regularly, and passing each other. Explain this manœuvre to them carefully, and drill them to go out of the room two or four deep, according to the number of tables (if two tables, four deep, if one, two deep,) returning in the same order. When the stands are to be taken, let it be done in the same way the covers were removed, by two strokes of the bell. The men will then return to their places, standing close up to their chairs, when one stroke of the bell will be given to remove castors, water-jugs, salts, and trimmings. Then the men form themselves into squads to brush down the table, and put on plates, knives, forks, spoons, dessert, crackers, cheese, and butter. These squads will brush both sides of the table at once, and will pass each other going up and coming down; they will all keep in squads until they get to the place where the man with the brush, who is the captain of the squad, puts down his brush, when they will put down whatever they have--plates, knives, or forks; and if they have nothing, make the motion, and return to their station. A ring of the bell will bring them to the position they are to occupy in putting on dessert. At the next stroke, the second waiter will file right or left, according to his position, and march the men into the pantry for dessert. They will then all march back, and halt in a line, when a stroke of the bell must be given for the men to face the table; another for them to put the dessert on with the right hand, and another for the same with the left hand. If there is more to be brought give a stroke for the men to march out again. To this the men should be drilled every day, except Saturday and Sunday, and have every position explained to them; and with care, in two weeks raw recruits can be made good waiters. Every signal should be explained carefully, until every man understands it well; then explanations may be omitted, and the bell only used, except on the general drill, when every evolution should be explained in succession as they are gone through, which will refresh the memory of the men, and prevent mistakes. Upon the drill, as often as possible, impress upon their minds the necessity of being attentive, obliging, and gentlemanly in their behavior. Once in six months, premiums should be given to those who behave best, and keep themselves cleanest, during the time.

 GENERAL REMARKS.

Every hotel keeper should himself endeavor to make the acquaintance of all persons that come to his house, as he will find it much to his advantage. By making himself agreeable and obliging, he secures their good will as well as their custom. Each one has friends, probably, in his own neighbourhood, who may, from the account which they receive, be induced to stop where their friends have been so cordially received and entertained; and this is one means of extending the business of the house.

Ladies who may be travelling alone, should not be left to come to the table without being seen by the proprietor, and brought in and seated; or, if he is not able to attend to them himself, they should be seated before the gong is rung, in order to avoid the confusion that generally attends the rush when the doors are thrown open, and every body is trying to get to their seats.

The proprietor should also travel through the country, and make the acquaintance of all the principal hotel keepers, steamboat captains, rail-road agents and conductors, and in fact all public men upon the great routes in the country. He will thus be prepared to give any information that may be required by persons frequenting his house, and especially ladies travelling without gentlemen, as in many instances they are compelled to do. In such cases, a note from him to the captain of a steamboat, or the conductor of a rail-road train, would be a great assistance. Gentlemen wishing to send for any of their friends, would, upon making his acquaintance, be sure to recommend them to stop at his hotel; for, say they, if he is called upon, there is not a doubt but all necessary information will be given, and the best attention will be secured on the route, as he is acquainted with everybody, and has great influence in any direction one may wish to go.

To make the necessary acquaintances, the hotel keeper must take time to travel on all the great routes in the country. It would be well to do it before he opens a house. Let him make the tour of Europe also, spending perhaps two years travelling in both countries. When he returns, let him open his house. Having made himself acquainted with all the principal places, wherever he has been, he is of course able to give any information that may be required about the best routes, distances, houses of accomodation, &c., all of which information is invaluable to travellers. When people come in, he should be the first to receive them; and when they leave, the last to see them off. Let him ascertain which way they are going, and as they depart, request them to accept of a few lines of introduction to their next stopping place, as it may be of some service to them.

When guests are about to leave, who have been at the house a considerable time, and have a pretty large bill, serve them up a private dinner in the very best style, and make no charge for it. The book-keeper, having his instructions, when called upon to make out the bill, will explain that there is no extra charge for this dinner, and make out the bill in full for the time, declining payment for the last day. And when the bill is paid, be ready to see them off.

Never let people be kept waiting for rooms, as there can be nothing more disagreeable than to be kept waiting in travelling dresses for a room to change in. If you have not such a room as is desired, give a good room to change in. In a hotel, you can always arrange to accommodate, if proper exertions are used. In such cases, the proprietor should see that every little delicacy of the season is prepared; and when a change of apparel has been made, be ready to serve his guests at the table, taking care to have every thing that requires it on hot dishes, with lights trimmed low to keep the water under them hot, but not boiling. Watch when they are done; and if you cannot give them the rooms you wish to, take them to the best you have. As you hear their objections, you will no doubt be able to satisfy them that you are determined to make them as comfortable as you possibly can, and they will be disposed to receive your attentions in lieu of the better accommodations which it is not in your power to give them. As soon as rooms are vacant that will answer, remove their baggage at once, and show them up yourself, being careful to note that every thing is clean and neat.

Have all your rooms well aired, as it is very important to have things clean in a room, and the room itself sweet and free from dust. Too much attention cannot be given to this subject, as ladies' dresses and valuable jewelry are in danger of being injured by neglect in this respect.

Occasionally the proprietor should give all his servants a dinner or a supper. The expense will be inconsiderable, and the advantage arising from it would repay him double. There is another thing that I would here mention: servants must be conciliated by kindness, as nothing can be gained by harsh treatment. Kindness secures their good will, while harshness makes them careless eye-servants. Therefore the best course is to establish certain rules for the regulation of all the servants in the house; and enforce them firmly, but calmly. Every one will then feel that if he breaks these rules there is no escape for him; and in the end will not only endeavor to keep them, but watch that others do not violate them. You will thus have at once, what is required in every hotel, namely--system. Every thing must be systematized, or nothing can be kept right, but all must be left to chance. If every one has his work, and is held responsible for it, you can depend upon having it well done; whereas if one does it one day, and some other the next if it so happen, it is nobody's business, and of course is neglected, and your own mind is always anxious. Therefore make some one responsible for every branch of work, and let him report as often as once a week the condition of every thing in his care; and at the time set for the reports, hear them yourself, or appoint some one to hear them. By this means you always know how every thing is about the establishment.

Have every thing marked for the place where it is to be used, in every part of the house, from the kitchen to the garret. No single article should be omitted. This will make every head of department, and his subordinates, vigilant and careful of every thing that may be in their charge.

Every three months all the heads of departments should submit their quarterly reports; and if there is any alterations to be made, let them be made at that time.

Your steward should have the control of buying stores, and superintending the cooking department, baking, confectionary, and all wines under his notice. He must be well acquainted with catering for a public house. He must also make it his business to be up very early in the morning, as it is all-important in a hotel to have all the servants about in time, and work always ahead, whereby you avoid the danger which always attends hurry and confusion. Therefore the steward should have the cook and his assistants at their posts in good time.

The housekeeper should see that the chambermaids who are not on duty at night, are on duty in proper time in the morning; that the rooms vacated by people going away, are properly cleared and put in order; and the parlors and reception rooms also, and halls, stairs, and passages, are cleared by the girls that scrub, so that nothing be left standing in the windows or halls, and that no dust be allowed to lodge on the stairs or balusters, as in passing up or down people are very apt to put their hand on them, and if dusty their gloves are spoiled. She should visit the ladies' rooms, and inquire how they are pleased, and if any thing can be done for their comfort or convenience.--These little attentions are never lost.

We ought to abandon the idea, which has so long possessed the minds of hotel keepers and the public generally, that it is impossible to be comfortable in a hotel--for if your rooms are such as you like, you are neglected by the servants, or if the servants are attentive, there will be something wrong at the table; or if the table suits, they would forget to call you; and as sure as the day comes, with it comes the attendant vexation incident to hotel living. This is a mistaken idea altogether; for, by adopting the rules which I have here laid down, every guest in the house is made perfectly easy,--first by the cordiality with which he is received, and then the politeness of all the servants, combined with cleanliness and order everywhere apparent, which predispose every one to think that all is right, and the mind is at once more than half made up to be pleased; in fact it cannot be otherwise, for this system unites all the comfort of a private house with the accommodations of a hotel, and persons having friends to call upon them may be sure to have them received with the same attention that would be paid them at their own homes. Many are fearful of taking their friends to a hotel to dine, on account of the confusion that generally attends that meal in a public house. It is highly important to instruct each to attend first to strangers; and then it will require the utmost vigilance on the part of the head to have it done, as the steady boarders, knowing the names of the different waiters, will call them familiarly, and ask for their attention. This will operate on the waiter in two ways: first, he thinks of the rule, and says to himself, if I do not attend to this gentleman or lady, he or she will report me, for my name is known; and if I do, I shall get a present of half a dollar, or a quarter at least;--the temptation is too great, and of course he falls; the stranger is neglected, leaves the house, and prevents as many of his friends as possible from coming to it. Therefore it is important that this should be carefully seen to.

There should be no pains spared to have every thing on hand that may be wanted in every department; and the steward should arrange to have the store-rooms and pantries as near as possible to the dining-room, that every order may be attended with the least delay, as a great deal of trouble is by this means avoided.

A dining-room ought always to be opened at least an hour before any meals are given, as in the winter that space of time would be required to get the room warm, and in summer to air the room, as there is always disagreeable odor in a room where the air has been confined. The room should not be closed during the day, nor until the supper is over at night. In this you will always be guided by the travelling. The table should be ready an hour before any rail-road cars or steamboats start, or whatever conveyance is used in the vicinity of the house; and for an hour after the arrival of the same. The pantries should be equally ready for all these contingencies; have the keys at night left at the office when the pantries are shut, which ought not to be before nine o'clock P.M., and never during the day-time. They should always be well supplied with all kinds of delicacies which the season or market can afford, that nothing may be called for which cannot be immediately supplied at any hour of the day or night. I consider the store-rooms and pantries the same to a hotel, in their several functions, that the heart and lungs are to a man; and the whole system is either healthy or unhealthy, as these chance to be affected either for good or evil.

I would also recommend the attention of those who are about to hire help in public houses, to such as know how to cook as well as wait. You will then always have an available force in case of an emergency, from sickness, or any other cause that may arise, such as increase of company, or discharge of help. In fact, waiters ought to make themselves acquainted with every thing with which they may be practically associated. The way to cause them to qualify themselves, is to encourage them by creating a demand for such a class of persons. Then waiting becomes what it ought to be--a science, which every man who seeks employment in must first study, the same as any other profession. And men would find it for their advantage to remain in a place, and employers would find it for their interest also to keep them; while persons stopping at a house will feel themselves the more at home when they see an old acquaintance.

In waiting upon table men must keep the table clear of crumbs and dirty plates, and all the time every thing that is upon it in perfect order, so that when the guests get up, the table is as clean, with reference to dirty dishes, as when they sat down.

Another very important thing is, to teach every waiter to anticipate the wants of the guests. For instance, at breakfast, on passing tea or coffee always hand cream and sugar. With coffee boiled milk is preferable. And at dinner, on passing the meats, be sure and hand vegetables, castors, salt, &c., that persons may not be compelled to reach over the table, or call a waiter, which is not only disagreeable to the persons themselves, but incommodes those who sit by them.

Servants ought not to get particular dishes off on side-tables for particular persons; for others at the table may call for the same dish, and not get it, in many instances being told it is all gone, while another person comes in and has the article brought on the table. This should therefore be guarded against, and no servant allowed to do it on any account. If any persons order a dish for themselves, let them have a private table, and then there can be no hard feelings.

Another mistake in hotel keepers has been, that they use every exertion to please travellers, while the servants that attend them are insulted, either by putting them in mean sleeping apartments, or giving them mean food to eat; all of which is reported to the gentleman or lady they are travelling with, and you may be sure that necessity alone will compel them to stop at such a hotel again. It should always be seen to by the proprietor himself, that his steward provides such things for the servants generally as will make them comfortable, both as to lodging and food; as such little attentions are more highly thought of by them than money in many instances by domestics.

EXPLANATION OF PLATES.

Plates 1 and 2, (pages 67 and 69,) show the Plan of a Table set for Breakfast, the numbers indicating the stations of waiters, five chairs to each. Have your Breakfast all put on hot dishes. All will be seen laid down in the Plans. Every thing else can be cooked when called for, and sent up hot. Such as Eggs, in all their various modes, Hot Cakes and Toasts, Rolls, Corn Bread, &c.

Plates 3 and 4, (pages 71 and 73,) give a plan for a Dinner table, with the waiters' stations. Plate 4 indicates all the Hot Centre Entrée, and Side dishes, and Vegetables. Plate 3 shows the places for Castors and Water Jugs; two Water Jugs by one Castor, one on each side, with the handle outwards. The Drill men being all drawn up in a line, one pace back from the chairs, each man having five chairs allotted to him, as in Plate No. 5, (page 75,) on the first signal, to be given by the stroke of a small bell, the men all face one way and march off, and as they come together at the door, form two deep, to serve Soup, as in Plate 6, (page 77.)

Plate No. 7, (page 79.)--After the second signal, of two strokes, the file leader at each side of the table files right or left, according to his station, the waiters having raised all the covers, and marches with them out of the room. In the same way they take off standing dishes to clear the table for Dessert. Plate No. 8, (page 81,) shows the squads brushing down the table, &c.

Plate No. 9 shows the plan of two tables, with the Dessert stand between, and the position of the men before putting on the Dessert. All facing towards the end of the table, at the first stroke of the bell, let all face the table; at the second stroke, put on the dish in the right hand, and at the third stroke, with the left.

In order to perfect the discipline and movements of the men, after the Table Drill bring them on the Squad Drill, every day, with the exceptions before mentioned. To teach them to keep time, if you should have a tune played, sung, or beat, all the better, as they can march to it. Teach them never to run, as that is very bad, and should in no case be allowed. Permit no racing, as it is attended with great danger of slopping gravies and sauces upon guests, besides the risk of breakage.

PLATE 1.Table diagram with castors' and waiters' positions shown. PLATE 2.Table diagram with position of breakfast dishes shown. PLATE 3.Table diagram for dinner, with waiters' stations. PLATE 4.Table diagram showing the placement of hot entrees, side dishes, and vegetables. PLATE 5.Table diagram with starting positions of the waiters. PLATE 6.Table diagram with positions of the waiters. PLATE 7.Table diagram indicating which direction waiters should march when removing dishes from the table. PLATE 8.Table diagram detailing the brushing down of the table. PLATE 9.Table diagram of three tables, side-by-side, showing the positions of the waiters before serving the dessert. PLATE 10.Diagram of a practice drill.

In this way march and counter-march them, and in a short time you will make them just what you wish.

The foregoing plates explain the principal figures or positions to be occupied by the men, when waiting upon table, or changing for the different courses; yet they are susceptible of as many changes as there are days in the month, and if you please a change may be made every day in the month.

At the commencement of this drill system, which was recommended by me to Mr. Foott, in Cortland street, New York, in the latter part of August, 1837, in a small house, which would accommodate one hundred and thirty persons, I was laughed at. When I spoke of systematizing every thing, I was asked, "How long will you be getting through dinner?" Upon my replying, "Just as soon as any other way," it was supposed I could not have even common sense. It was therefore given up by me until the year 1840, when, at Howard's Hotel, in Broadway, corner of Maiden Lane, I again tried to do all that possibly could be done, and for two years met with every discouragement. Mr. Howard, the proprietor, himself approved of my plan, but doubted my capacity to reduce it to practice. Therefore I had very little encouragement, and was upon the point of giving it up; but being satisfied in my own mind that it would work, resolved to make one more effort. The principal difficulty to be surmounted, was, to overcome the prejudices of the men themselves, which I at last accomplished, by showing them that upon my plan, we could finish our work sooner. In clearing table it could be done a third sooner, because every man knew what he was to do, and consequently no time was lost by any man, and when his part was done all was done. The same is true in waiting on table. If each man attends to his own people, they are all attended to; and each man being responsible for his number of chairs, he cannot avoid waiting upon them, as he knows that he will be exposed, there being no way for him to escape detection. The time of serving each course can be lengthened or shortened at pleasure, as every man must go by the signals; the head waiter is the same as the regulator of a clock or watch, the machinery moving fast or slow as the impulse is given by the regulator.

As this work is going to press rather hurriedly, I will not attempt to describe the various sets of dinner, breakfast, and the tables, but give such general hints as will enable any persons to perform all the work that may at any time be required of them, by a little reflection, and the exercise of their own judgment. Tea tables are for the most part composed of fancy sets. The regular set are but very few, and do not exceed four for hotels, and about the same for private families. The fancies which I at present can map myself are one hundred and twenty-seven different sets. For instance, every letter of the alphabet can be set. Then the name of towns, persons, and countries. As the name varies, so the set varies. Some may say, "If you set a name, it is all of one set, no matter what name it is--William, or John." Yet that is not the fact; for if you set the letter P it cannot be W; therefore the set is different. In this way any amount or number of changes may be made. My time has never admitted of setting more than one hundred and twenty-seven different sets.

A spirit of emulation should be encouraged among the waiters in a hotel, to induce them to try to excel each other in table setting, as well as waiting. By this means the work is better done, and has a greater chance of variety and improvement.

Private families also will find it much to their advantage if they act upon the same principle, and employ persons that understand their business, and work by a rule, as nothing can be done well without it. Therefore in the domestic circle, if we would expect comfort, we must first secure order. The immediate result is saving of time, labor, and anxiety; for you are well aware, that everything will be in its place, and everything done in its proper time. As a matter of domestic ease and economy, every family ought to be guided by a regular system. Each servant should be instructed to place every article which is used in the place where it belongs. By this means nothing can be lost or misplaced. By following the plan already laid down towards your servants, you at once secure their good will, and they will do anything to please you. A kind word or look is never thrown away upon a servant. This should always be borne in mind by those who have servants under their care or in their employ. In fact, it rests mainly with the employer to make servants either good or bad. I would therefore recommend such uniform kindness as will ensure the good will, with the necessary firmness to command the respect of a servant, as the proper course to be adopted by all persons placed in the situation to command or employ servants.

The drill described in these pages, may be seen in full operation at the Adams House, No. 371 Washington street, Boston.

Men should be instructed to hold themselves erect, and upon the squad drill they should be taught a regular step, the same as a military company. All should wear very light shoes or slippers, to prevent noise in walking, as no noise should be made, if possible, but the men should glide about, with a quiet, easy step.

The necessity of keeping at a proper distance ought to be forcibly impressed upon the men on drill, as that will ensure the covers being raised in a proper manner, and the dessert will be put upon the table with regularity. Whether the table be long or short, a uniform distance will be got by each man, without the necessity of a particular order being given to that effect. It is also important for another reason. Whenever it is at any time found necessary, on account of the distance from the kitchen, to tray up the dinner, I would recommend taking it up by hand. First arrange the dinner as you wish it upon the table, then let men come down in regular order as upon the squad drill, and at a given signal raise and march under the command of the third waiter, the second waiter being down to arrange it upon the table, and see that all comes up from the kitchen in good order after the steward has it dished. The third waiter will also see that every dish is on in its proper place, and perfectly clean, before the covers are put on, when the head cover-cleaner with his men will have every dish covered, and the lights all examined to see that none of them are so high as to burn the dishes, or so low that they do not answer the purpose of keeping the meats and vegetables hot; and at breakfast the same.

The watchmen should be instructed to decorate all dishes that they have to get ready, such as lobsters, plain and in salad, and other trimmings, as all these little things have a great effect upon the general appearance of the table.

 COURSES.

FIRST COURSE.--Soup.

SECOND COURSE.--Fish. Let Potatoes be served with this course.

THIRD COURSE.--Raise the covers. Meats, boiled and roast, with Poultry and Entrees.

FOURTH COURSE.--Game. With this have Potatoes brought on hot, the table being cleared for this the same as for dessert. The Potatoes and Jelly will be placed upon the side table. Have the Game on the carving table. When ready to serve give a signal for that purpose. Make the men all come up regular, and do not let them break their ranks, but move off as fast as they are served, with no loud talking, as they are apt to be boisterous. This is the first regular change.

FIFTH COURSE.--Puddings, Pies, Tarts, Confectionary, Jellies, Blanc Mange, and Trifles.

SIXTH COURSE.--Ice Creams, Water Ice, Ice Balls, Preserved Fruit, Strawberries and Cream, or Melon, according to the season. Clean cloth for this course. Put on finger-bowls; then clear.

SEVENTH COURSE.--First remove the table cloth, then you come to the table cover, which may be mahogany color, or scarlet, according to your fancy. Put on your dessert plates, which ought in color to correspond with the table cover and napkins.

EIGHTH COURSE.--Have some pure rich milk, nicely boiled, in cream jugs placed upon table, with sugar-bowls to match. Then have upon the side-board or table an urn with strong coffee, and when ready pass a cup to each person at the table, in a small dessert coffee cup.

The ladies will then retire, and the gentlemen, if they wish, will remain to smoke; or it would be much better to have a room to which they may also go, with a waiter to attend them, who should be stationed outside of the door, as before mentioned.

The rules before given are the best, as a general thing, for hotels, in the public rooms. For private parties, we should strictly adhere to the regular system of coursing.

None ought to give themselves so wholly up to business as not to allow themselves time for their meals; as it is a well understood fact that when we eat at ease and without hurry, food sets better upon the stomach, and digestion is promoted. Therefore as a matter of health, as well as regularity, I would recommend a medium course to be pursued, instead of having eight separate courses, as I have found by observations made during my practice, that a more general satisfaction has been given than by any other plan used in the hotels in this country.

In regulating courses, a great deal must depend on the judgement of the head waiter at a public table, for sometimes people will eat much faster than at others, and it would not be proper to detain the table when the guests are ready for the next course. Yet nothing should be hurried, and, if possible, even the appearance of haste should be avoided.

As the great aim is to arrive at the greatest amount of attention to each individual, with the least noise and confusion, each man, being taught his duty, moves with his mind set upon what he has got to do, and therefore every movement tells. There is no time lost. The waiters being kept in the room, things are prevented from being brought upon the table after persons have been informed that none of them is left. Nothing should be kept back except by the orders of the steward or head waiter, as that will prevent all difficulties which might otherwise arise. For although there ought always to be enough of every thing upon the table, yet sometimes there may be things rare or scarce, but which men ought not to be allowed to keep off the table, without permission from the head waiter, as this comes immediately under his notice.

 RECIPES.

I will here recommend a few valuable Recipes for Cooking.

To Make Corn Bread.-- Four eggs to a quart of milk, a pound of butter to six pounds of meal. Stir well until it is about the thickness of good molasses. A tea-cupful of molasses to six pounds of meal--to which add a tea-spoonful of salæratus. Grease your pans well with butter. Put it in a good hot oven; bake three quarters of an hour.

To Make Buckwheat Cakes. --Six pounds of meal; add to that a pound of Indian meal, and half a pint of good yeast. Put into a warm place--and when light, bake well on a hot griddle.

To Make Anchovy Sauce. --Strip an anchovy, bruise it very fine, put it into half a pint of gravy, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, a spoonful of red wine, and a tea-spoonful of catchup. Boil all together till it is properly thick, and serve it up. Add a little lemon-juice, if you please.

To Make Bread or Pap Sauce. --Take a pint of water, put in a good piece of crumb of bread, a blade of mace, and a little whole pepper. Boil it for eight or ten minutes, and then pour the water off; take out the spice, and beat up the bread with a little butter.

To melt Butter thick. --Your saucepan must be well tinned, and very clean. Just moisten the bottom with as small a quantity of water as possible, not above a spoonful to half a pound of butter. You may or may not dust the butter with flour--it is better not to flour it. Cut the butter in slices, and put it into the pan a little before the water becomes hot. As it melts, keep the pan shaking one way frequently; and when it is all melted let it boil up, and it will be smooth, fine, and thick.

To burn Butter. --Put two ounces of butter over a slow fire, in a stew-pan or sauce-pan, without water. When the butter is melted, dust on a little flour, and keep it stirring till it grows thick and brown.

To make Brown Celery Sauce. --Stew the celery in little thin bits, then add mace, nutmeg, pepper, salt, a piece of butter rolled in flour, with a glass of red wine, a spoonful of catchup, and half a pint of good gravy; boil all these together, and pour into the dish. Garnish with lemon.

Gravy, to make Mutton eat like Venison. --Take a woodcock or snipe that is stale, (the staler the better) pick it, cut it in two, and hack it with a knife; put it into a stew-pan, with as much gravy as you shall want, and let it simmer for half an hour; then strain the gravy for use. This will give the mutton so true a flavor of game, that no one can tell it from venison.

To make Lobster Sauce. --Take a lobster, bruise the body and spawn, that is in the inside, very fine, with the back of a spoon; mince the meat of the tail and claws very small; melt your butter of a good thickness, put in the bruised part, and shake it well together; then put in the minced meat, with a little nutmeg grated, and a spoonful of white wine. Let it just boil up, and pour it into boats, or over your fish.

To make Lemon Sauce for boiled Fowls. --Take a lemon, pare off the rind, then cut it into slices, cut it small, and take all the kernels out; bruise the liver with two or three spoonfuls of good gravy, then melt some butter, mix all together, give them a boil, and cut in a little lemon-peel very small.

To make Oyster Sauce. --Take a pint of oysters that are tolerably large, put them into a sauce-pan with their own liquor, a blade of mace, a little whole pepper, and a bit of lemon-peel; let them stew over the fire till the oysters are plump; pour all into a clean pan, and wash them carefully one by one, out of the liquor; strain about a gill of the liquor through a fine sieve, add the same quantity of good gravy, cut half a pound of fresh butter in pieces, roll up some in flour, and then put in all your oysters; set it over the fire, shake it round often till it boils, and add a spoonful of white wine; let it just boil, and pour it into your bason or boat. Many people add an anchovy, which greatly enriches the sauce.

To make Parsley Sauce. --Tie parsley up in a bunch, and boil it till soft; shred it fine, and mix it with melted butter.

A pretty Sauce for boiled Fowls. --Take the liver of the fowl, bruise it with a little of the liquor, cut a little lemon-peel fine, melt some good butter, and mix the liver by degrees; give it a boil and pour it into the dish.

To roast Beef. --If it be a sirloin or chump, butter a piece of writing-paper, and fasten it on to the back of your meat with small skewers, and lay it down to a soaking fire, at a proper distance. As soon as your meat is warm, dust on some flour, and baste it with butter; then sprinkle some salt, and, at times, baste with what comes from it. About a quarter of an hour before you take it up, remove the paper, dust on a little flour, and baste it with a piece of butter, that it may go to table with a good froth. Garnish your dish with scraped horse-radish; and serve it up with potatoes, brocoli, French beans, cauliflower, or celery.

To roast a Cod's Head. --Wash and scour the head very clean, scotch it with a knife, strew a little salt on it, and lay it before the fire; throw away the water that runs from it the first half hour, then strew on it some nutmeg, cloves, mace, and salt, and baste it often with butter. Take all the gravy of the fish, white wine, and meat gravy, some horse-radish, shallots, whole pepper, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and a bay-leaf or two; boil this liquor up with butter, and the liver of the fish boiled, broke, and strained into it, with the yolks of two or three eggs, oysters, shrimps, and balls made of fish; put fried fish around it. Garnish with lemon and horse-radish.

To roast a Turkey, Goose, Duck, Fowl, &c. --When you roast a turkey, goose, fowl, or chicken, lay them down to a good fire. Singe them clean with white paper, baste them with butter, and dust on some flour. As to time, a large turkey will take an hour and twenty minutes--a middling one a full hour--a full grown goose, if young, an hour--a large fowl three quarters of an hour--a middling one half an hour, and a small chicken twenty minutes; but this depends entirely on the goodness of your fire.

When your fowls are thoroughly plump, and the smoke draws from the breast to the fire, you may be sure they are very near done. Then baste them with butter, dust on a very little flour, and as soon as they have a good froth, serve them up.

Geese and ducks are commonly seasoned with onions, sage, and a little pepper and salt.

A turkey, when roasted, is generally stuffed in the craw with forc'd meat, or the following stuffing: take a pound of veal, as much grated bread, half a pound of suet cut and beat very fine, a little parsley, with a small bit of thyme or savory, two cloves, half a nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of shred lemon-peel, a little pepper and salt, and the yolks of two eggs.

Sauce for a Turkey. --Good gravy in a boat; and either bread, onion, or oyster sauce in a bason.

Sauce for a Goose. --A little good gravy in a boat, apple sauce in a bason, and mustard.

Sauce for a Duck. --A little gravy in the dish, and onions in a tea-cup.

Sauce for Fowls. --Parsley and butter; or gravy in the dish, and either bread sauce, oyster sauce, or egg sauce in a bason.

To roast Wild Ducks, Wigeons, or Teal. --Wild fowl are in general liked rather under done; and if your fire is very good and brisk, a duck or wigeon will be done in a quarter of an hour; for as soon as they are well hot through they begin to lose their gravy, and if not drawn off, will eat hard. A teal is done in little more than ten minutes.

To roast an Eel. --Scour the eel well with salt; skin him almost to the tail; then gut, wash, and dry him. Take a quarter of a pound of suet shred as fine as possible, sweet herbs, and a shallot, and mix them together with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; scotch your eel on both sides, wash it with yolks of eggs, lay some seasoning over it, then draw the skin over it, and tie it to the spit; baste it with butter, and make the sauce of anchovies and butter melted.

Any other river or sea fish, that are large enough, may be dressed in the same manner.

A Fowl, or Turkey, roasted with Chesnuts. --Roast a quarter of a hundred of chesnuts, and peel them; save out eight or ten, the rest bruise in a mortar, with the liver of a fowl, a quarter of a pound of ham well pounded, and sweet herbs and parsley chopped fine. Season it with mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt. Mix all these together, and put them into the belly of your fowl: spit it, and tie the neck and vent close. For sauce, take the rest of the chesnuts, cut them in pieces, and put them into a strong gravy, with a glass of white wine; thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Pour the sauce in the dish, and garnish with orange and water-cresses.

The German way of dressing Fowls. --Take a turkey or fowl, stuff the breast with what force-meat you like, fill the body with roasted chesnuts peeled, and lay it down to roast; take half a pint of good gravy, with a little piece of butter rolled in flour; boil these together, with some small turnips and sausages cut in slices, and fried or boiled. Garnish with chesnuts.

You may dress ducks the same way.

To roast a green Goose with green Sauce. --Roast your goose nicely; in the mean time, make your sauce thus: take half a pint of the juice of sorrel, a spoonful of white wine, a little grated nutmeg, and some grated bread; boil this over a gentle fire, and sweeten it with pounded sugar to your taste; let your goose have a good froth on it before you take it up; put some good strong gravy in the dish, and the same in a boat. Garnish with lemon.

To roast a Hare. --Case and truss your hare, and then make a pudding thus: a quarter of a pound of beef suet minced fine; as much bread crumbs; the liver chopped fine; parsley and lemon-peel shred fine, seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Moisten it with an egg, and put it into the hare; sew up the belly, and lay it down to a good fire. Let your dripping-pan be very clean; put into it a quart of milk, and six ounces of butter, and baste it with this till the whole is used. About five minutes before you take it up, dust on a little flour, and baste with fresh butter, that it may go to table with a good froth. Put a little gravy in the dish, and the rest in a boat. Garnish your dish with lemon.

To roast Lamb. --Lay it down to a clear good fire, that will want little stirring; then baste it with butter, and dust on a little flour; baste it with what falls from it: and a little before you take it up, baste it again with butter, and sprinkle on a little salt and parsley shred fine. Send it up to table with a nice salad, mint sauce, green peas, French beans, or cauliflower.

To roast Larks. --Truss your larks with the legs across, and put a sage leaf over the breast; put them upon a long fine skewer, and between every lark a little piece of thin bacon; then tie the skewer to a spit, and roast them at a quick, clear fire; baste them with butter, and strew over them some crumbs of bread mixed with flour; fry some bread crumbs of a nice brown, in a bit of butter; lay your larks round in your dish, the bread crumbs in the middle, with sliced orange for garnish. Send good gravy in a boat.

To roast a Shoulder or Leg of Mutton stuffed. --Stuff a leg of mutton with mutton-suet, salt, pepper, nutmeg, grated bread, and yolks of eggs; then stick it all over with cloves, and roast it; when it is about half done cut off some of the under side of the fleshy end in little bits; put those into a pipkin with a pint of oysters, liquor and all, a little salt and mace, and half a pint of hot water; stew them till half the liquor is wasted, then put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, shake all together, and when the mutton is done enough take it up; pour the sauce over it, and send it to table.

To roast Mutton, Venison fashion. --Take a hind quarter of fat mutton, and cut the leg like a haunch; lay it in a pan with the back side of it down, pour a bottle of red wine over it, and let it lie twenty-four hours; then spit it, and baste it with the same liquor and butter all the time it is roasting, at a good quick fire, and two hours and a half will do it. Have a little good gravy in a boat, and currant jelly in another.

A good fat neck of mutton eats finely done thus.

To fry Eggs as round as Balls. --Having a deep frying pan, and three pints of clarified butter, heat it as hot as for fritters, and stir it with a stick till it runs round like a whirlpool; then break an egg into the middle, and turn it round with your stick, till it be as hard as a poached egg; the whirling round of the butter will make it as round as a ball; then take it up with a slice, and put it in a dish before the fire; they will keep hot half an hour, and yet be soft; so you may do as many as you please. You may poach them in boiling water in the same manner.

To fry Mutton Cutlets. --Take a handful of grated bread, a little thyme and parsley, and lemon peel shred very small, with some nutmeg, pepper, and salt; then take a loin of mutton, cut it into steaks, and let them be well beaten; then take the yolks of two eggs, and rub the steaks all over. Strew on the grated bread with these ingredients mixed together. For the sauce take gravy, with a spoonful or two of claret, and a little anchovy.

To fry Sweetbreads and Kidneys. --After splitting the kidneys, fry them and the sweetbreads in butter. Serve them up with a brown ragout sauce, and mushrooms; garnish with fried parsley and sliced lemon.

To broil Pigeons. --Put a bit of butter, some shred parsley, and a little pepper and salt in the bellies of the pigeons, and tie them up neck and vent. Set your gridiron high, that they may not burn; and send them up with a little melted butter in a cup. You may split them, and broil them with a little pepper and salt; or you may roast them, and serve them up with a little parsley and butter in a boat.

To broil Cod, Salmon, Whiting, or Haddock. --Flour them, and have a quick clear fire; set your gridiron high, broil them of a fine brown, and lay them in a dish. For sauce take good melted butter, with the body of a lobster broiled therein; cut the meat small, put all together into the melted butter, make it hot, and pour it into the dish, or into basons. Garnish with horse-radish and lemon.

To stew Beef Steaks. --Half broil the beef steaks; then put them into a stew-pan, season them with pepper and salt according to your palate; just cover them with gravy. Also put in a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let them stew gently for half an hour, then add the yolks of two eggs beat up, and stir all together for two or three minutes, and serve it up. Garnish with pickles and horse-radish scraped.

To stew Brisket of Beef. --Having rubbed the brisket with common salt and saltpetre, let it lie four days. Then lard the skin with fat bacon, and put it into a stew-pan with a quart of water, a pint of red wine or strong beer, half a pound of butter, a bunch of sweet herbs, three or four shallots, some pepper, and half a nutmeg grated. Cover the pan very close. Then fry some square pieces of boiled turnips very brown. Strain the liquor the beef was stewed in, thicken it with burnt butter, and having mixed the turnips with it, pour all together over the beef in a large dish. Serve it up hot, and garnish with lemon sliced. An ox cheek, or a leg of beef, may be served up in the same manner.

To stew Red Cabbage. --Take a red cabbage, lay it in cold water for an hour, cut it into thin slices across, and then into little pieces. Put it into a stew-pan, with a pound of sausages, a pint of gravy, a little bit of ham or lean bacon; cover it close, and let it stew half an hour; then take the pan off the fire and skim away the fat, shake in a little flour, and set it on again. Let it stew two or three minutes, then lay the sausages in the dish and pour the rest all over. You may, before you take it up, put in half a spoonful of vinegar.

To stew Spinach and Eggs. --Pick and wash your spinach very clean, put it into a sauce-pan without water, throw in a little salt, cover it close, and shake the pan often; when it is just tender, and whilst it is green, put it into a sieve to drain, and lay it in your dish. In the mean time have a stew-pan of water boiling, break as many eggs in separate cups as you would poach. When the water boils put in the eggs; have an egg-slice ready to take them out with, lay them on the spinach, and garnish the dish with orange cut in quarters, and send up melted butter in a cup.

To stew a Turkey or Fowl. --Take a turkey or fowl, put it into a sauce-pan or pot, with a sufficient quantity of gravy, or good broth; a bunch of celery cut small, and a muslin rag, filled with mace, pepper, and allspice, tied loose, with an onion and a sprig of thyme. When these have stewed softly till enough, take up the turkey or fowl, thicken the liquor it was stewed in with butter and flour, and having dished the turkey or fowl, pour the sauce into the dish.

To stew Giblets. --Let the giblets be clean picked and washed, the feet skinned, and the bill cut off, the head split in two, the pinion bones broken, the liver and gizzard cut in four, and the neck in two pieces: put them into half a pint of water, with pepper, salt, a small onion, and sweet herbs. Cover the sauce-pan close, and let them stew till enough, upon a slow fire. Then season them with salt, take out the onion and herbs, and pour them into a dish with all the liquor.

To stew a Hare. --Beat it well with a rolling-pin in its own blood. Cut it into little bits and fry them. Then put the hare into a stew-pan, with a quart of strong gravy, pepper and salt according to the palate, and let it stew till tender. Thicken it with butter and flour. Serve it up in its gravy, with sippets in the dish, and lemon sliced for garnish.

To stew Oysters or Muscles. --Plump them in their own liquor; then, having drained off the liquor, wash them clean in fair water. Set the liquor drained from the oysters, or as much as necessary, (with the addition of an equal quantity of water or white wine, a little whole pepper, and a blade of mace) over the fire, and boil it well. Then put in the oysters, and let them just boil up, and thicken with a piece of butter and flour: some will add the yolk of an egg. Serve them up with sippets and the liquor, and garnish the dish with grated bread or sliced lemon.

To make Gravy Soup. --Take the bones of a rump of beef, and a piece of the neck, and boil it till you have all the goodness of it; then strain it off, and take a good piece of butter, put it in a stew-pan, and brown it, then put to it an onion stuck with cloves, some celery, endive, spinach, and three carrots; put to your gravy some pepper, salt and cloves, and let it boil all together: then put in some sippets of bread dried by the fire; and you may add a glass of red wine. Serve it up with a French roll toasted and laid in the middle.

To make a rich Giblet Soup. --Take four pounds of gravy beef, two pounds of scrag of mutton, two pounds of scrag of veal; stew them well down in a sufficient quantity of water for a strong broth; let it stand till it is quite cold, then skim the fat clean of. Take two pair of giblets well scalded and cleaned, put them into your broth, and let them simmer till they are stewed tender; then take out your giblets, and run the soup through a fine sieve to catch the small bones; then take an ounce of butter, and put it into a stew-pan, mixing a proper quantity of flour, to make it of a fine light brown. Take a small handful of chives, the same of parsley, and a very little of sweet marjoram; chop all these herbs together excessively small; set your soup over a slow fire, put in your giblets, butter and flour, and small herbs; then take a pint of Madeira wine, some Cayenne pepper, and salt to your palate. Let them all simmer together, till the herbs are tender, and the soup is finished. Send it up to table with the giblets in it.

The livers must be stewed in a sauce-pan by themselves, and put in the dish when you serve it up.

To make a good Pea Soup. --Take a quart of split peas, put them into a gallon of soft water, with a bunch of herbs, some whole Jamaica and black pepper, two or three onions, a pound of lean beef, a pound of mutton, and a pound of the belly-piece of fat pork; boil all together, till your meat is thoroughly tender, and your soup strong; then strain it through a sieve, and pour it into a clean sauce-pan; cut and wash three or four large heads of celery, some spinach, and a little dried mint, rubbed fine; boil it till your celery is tender, then serve it up with bread cut in dice and fried brown.

To make Green Pea Soup. --Have a knuckle of veal of four pounds, a pint and a half of the oldest green peas shelled, set them over the fire with five quarts of water; add two or three blades of mace, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, a small onion stuck with three cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cover it close, and let it boil till half is wasted; strain it off, and pass your liquor through a sieve, put it into a clean sauce-pan, with a pint of the youngest peas, the heart of a cabbage, a lettuce or two, and the white part of three or four heads of celery cut small; cover it close, and let it stew for an hour. If you think it is not thick enough, take some of your soup, and put in half a spoonful of flour; stir it in a bason till it is smooth, pour it into your soup, stir it well together, and let it boil for ten minutes; then dish it up with the crust of a French roll.

To make a White Portable Soup. --Take a leg of veal, bone it, and take off all the skin and fat; take likewise two dozen of fowl's or chicken's feet, washed clean, and chopped to pieces; put all into a large stoving-pot, with three gallons of soft water, and let it stove gently, till the meat is so tender as to separate. You must keep your pot tight covered, and a constant fire during the time of its stoving; in about seven or eight hours try your jelly in a cup, and when quite cold, if it is so stiff as that you can cut it with a knife, take it off, and strain it through a sieve, and take off all the fat and scum first with a spoon, and then with a filtering paper. Provide china cups, and fill them with the clear jelly; set them in a gravy-pan, or a large stew-pan of boiling water over a stove; in this water boil your jelly in the cups, till it is as thick as glue. After which let them stand in the water till they are quite cold. Before you turn them out of your cups run the edge of a knife round to loosen them; then turn them upon a piece of new flannel, which will draw out all the moisture gradually. Turn them every six or eight hours, till they are perfectly dry, and like a piece of glue; keep them in as dry a place as you can, and in a little time they will be so hard that you may carry them in your pocket, without the least inconvenience. When you want to use it take a piece about the bigness of a walnut, and pour a pint of boiling water on it, stirring it till it is dissolved; season it with salt to your taste, and you will have a bason of strong broth. If you want a dish of soup, boil vermicelli in water; then to a cake of your soup pour a pint of water, so that four cakes will make two quarts; when it is thoroughly melted, set it over the fire just to simmer; pour it into the dish, put in thin slices of bread hardened before the fire, and the vermicelli upon them. Thus you have a dish of soup in about half an hour. Whilst this is doing, you may have any thing dressed to follow, which will not only be a good addition to your dinner, but saving time.

To make Vermicelli Soup. --Take two quarts of strong veal broth, put it into a clean sauce-pan, with a piece of bacon stuck with cloves, and half an ounce of butter rolled in flour; then take a small fowl trussed to boil, break the breast bone, and put it into your soup; stove it close, and let it stew three quarters of an hour; take about two ounces of vermicelli, and put to it some of the broth; set it over the fire till it is quite tender. When your soup is ready take out the fowl, and put it into the dish; take out your bacon, skim your soup as soon as possible, then pour it on the fowl, and lay your vermicelli all over it; cut some French bread thin, put it into your soup, and send it to table.

If you choose, you may make your soup with a knuckle of veal, and send a handsome piece of it in the middle of the dish, instead of the fowl.

To make Soup Lorraine. --Have ready a strong veal broth that is white, and clean scummed from all fat; blanch a pound of almonds, beat them in a mortar with a little water, to prevent their oiling, and the yolks of four poached eggs, the lean part of the legs, and all the white part of a roasted fowl; pound all together, as fine as possible; then take three parts of the veal broth, put it into a clean stew-pan, put your ingredients in, and mix them well together; chip in the crust of two French rolls well rasped; boil all together over a stove, or a clear fire. Take a French roll, cut a piece out of the top, and take out all the crumb; mince the white part of a roasted fowl very fine, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little beaten mace; put in about an ounce of butter, and moisten it with two spoonfuls of your soup strained to it; set it over the stove to be thorough hot. Cut some French rolls in slices and set them before the fire to crisp; then strain off your soup through a tammy or a lawn strainer into another clean stew-pot; let it stew till it is as thick as cream; then have your dish ready, put in some of your crisp bread, fill your roll with the mince, and lay on the top as close as possible; put it in the middle of the dish, and pour a ladleful of your soup over it; put in your bread first, then pour in the soup till the dish is full. Garnish with petty patties, or make a rim for your dish, and garnish with lemon raced.

To make Sorrel Soup, with Eggs. --Take the chump end of a loin of mutton, and part of a knuckle of veal, to make your stock with; season it with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs; boil it till it is as rich as you would have it; strain it off, and put it into a clean sauce-pan; put in a young fowl, cover it over and stove it; then take three or four large handfuls of sorrel washed clean; chop it grossly, fry it in butter, put it to your soup, and let it boil till your fowl is thoroughly done; skim it clean, and send it to table with the fowl in the middle, and six poached eggs placed around about it. Garnish the dish with sippets, and stewed sorrel.

To make Asparagus Soup. --Take five or six pounds of lean beef cut in lumps, and rolled in flour; put it in your stew-pan, with two or three slices of fat bacon at the bottom; then put it over a slow fire, and cover it close, stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn; then put in two quarts of water, and half a pint of ale. Cover it close, and let it stew gently for an hour, with some whole pepper, and salt to your mind: then strain off the liquor, and take off the fat; put in the leaves of white beets, some spinach, some cabbage lettuce, a little mint, some sorrel, and a little sweet marjoram powdered; let these boil up in your liquor, then put in the green tops of asparagus cut small, and let them boil till all is tender. Serve it up hot, with a French roll in the middle.

To make a Craw-Fish Soup. --Cleanse them, and boil them in water, salt and spice; pull off their feet and tails and fry them; break the rest of them in a stone mortar, season them with savory spice, and an onion, a hard egg, grated bread, and sweet herbs boiled in good table beer; strain it, and put to it scalded chopped parsley, and French rolls; then put in the fried craw-fish, with a few mushrooms. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon, and the feet and tail of a craw-fish.

To make Oyster Soup. --Have ready a good fish stock, then take two quarts of oysters without the beards; bray the hard part in a mortar, with the yolks of ten hard eggs. Set what quantity of fish stock you shall want over the fire with your oysters; season it with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. When it boils put in the eggs, and let it boil till it is as thick as cream. Dish it up with bread cut in dice.

To make an Eel Soup. --Take eels according to the quantity of soup you would make--a pound of eels will make a pint of soup; so to every pound of eels put a quart of water, a crust of bread, two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, an onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs; cover them close, and let them boil till half the liquor is wasted; then strain it, toast some bread and cut it small, lay the bread in the dish, and pour in your soup. If you have a stew-hole, set the dish over it for a minute, and send it to table. If you find your soup not rich enough, you must let it boil till it is as strong as you would have it, and add a piece of carrot to brown it.

To make a Brown Soup. --Into a clean sauce-pan put three quarts, or more, of water, with raspings sufficient to thicken it, two or three onions cut across, two or three cloves, some whole pepper, and a little salt; cover it close and let it boil about an hour and a half, then strain it through a sieve; have celery, carrots, endive, lettuce, spinach, and what other herbs you like, not cut too small, and fry them in butter; take a clean stew-pan, that is large enough for your ingredients, put in a good piece of butter, dust in flour, and keep it stirring till it is of a fine brown; then pour in your herbs and soup, boil it till the herbs are tender, and the soup of a proper thickness. Have bread cut in dice, and fried brown; pour your soup into the dish, put some of the bread into the soup, the rest in a plate, and serve it up.

To make a White Soup. --Put in a clean sauce-pan two or three quarts of water, the crumb of a two-penny loaf, with a bundle of herbs, some whole pepper, two or three cloves, an onion or two cut across, and a little salt; let it boil covered till it is quite smooth; take celery, endive and lettuce, only the white parts, cut them in pieces, not too small, and boil them till they are very tender, strain your soup off into a clean stew-pan; put your herbs in, with a good piece of butter stirred in it till the butter is melted, and let it boil for some time, till it is very smooth. If any scum arises, take it off very clean. Soak a small French roll, nicely rasped, in some of the soup; put it in the middle of the dish, pour in the soup, and send it to table.

To make Onion Soup. --First put a tea-kettle of water on to boil, then slice six Spanish onions, or some of the largest onions you have got; flour them pretty well, then put them into a stew-pan that will hold about three quarts, fry them in butter till they are of a fine brown, but not burnt; pour in boiling water sufficient to fill the soup dish you intend; let it boil, and take half a pound of butter rolled in flour, break it in, and keep it stirring till your butter is melted: as it boils, skim it very well, and put in a little pepper and salt; cut a French roll into slices, and set it before the fire to crisp; poach seven or eight eggs very nicely, cut off the ragged part of the whites, drain the water from them, and lay them upon every slice of roll; pour your soup into the dish, and put the bread and eggs carefully into the dish with a skimmer. If you have any spinach boiled, lay a leaf between every piece of roll, and send it to table.

If you have any Parmesan cheese, scrape about an ounce very fine, and put it in when you pour on your boiling water; it gives it a very high flavor, and it is not to be perceived by the taste what it is.

To make a Rice Soup. --To two quarts of water put three quarters of a pound of rice, clean picked and washed, with a stick of cinnamon; let it be covered very close, and simmer till your rice is tender; take out the cinnamon, and grate half a nutmeg; beat up the yolks of four eggs, and strain them to half a pint of white wine, and as much pounded sugar as will make it palatable; put this to your soup, and stir it very well together: set it over the fire, stirring it till it boils, and is of a good thickness; then send it to table.

To make Turnip Soup. --Pare a bunch of turnips, (save out three or four) put them into a gallon of water, with half an ounce of white pepper, an onion stuck with cloves, three blades of mace, half a nutmeg bruised, a good bunch of sweet herbs, and a large crust of bread. Boil them an hour and a half, then pass them through a sieve; clean a bunch of celery, cut it small, and put it into your turnips and liquor, with two of the turnips you saved, and two young carrots cut in dice; cover it close, and let it stew; then cut two turnips and carrots in dice, flour them, and fry them brown in butter, with two large onions cut thin, and fried likewise; put them all into your soup, with some vermicelli; let it boil softly, till your celery is tender, and your soup is good. Season it with salt to your palate.

To make Soup Meagre. --Take a bunch of celery washed clean, and cut in pieces a large handful of spinach, two cabbage lettuces, and some parsley; wash all very clean, and shred them small; then take a large clean stew-pan, put in about half a pound of butter, and when it is quite hot, slice four large onions very thin, and put into your butter; stir them well together for two or three minutes; then put in the rest of your herbs; shake all well together for near twenty minutes; dust in some flour, and stir them together; pour in two quarts of boiling water; season with pepper, salt, and beaten mace; chip a handful of crust of bread, and put in; boil it half an hour, then beat up the yolks of three eggs in a spoonful of vinegar; pour it in, stir it for two or three minutes, and then send it to table.

To make Icing for Tarts. --Beat and sift a quarter of a pound of fine loaf sugar. Put it into a mortar with the white of one egg that has been well beat up. Add to these two spoonfuls of rose water, and beat all together till it be so thick as just to run, observing to stir it all one way. It is laid on the tart with a brush or small bunch of feathers dipped in the icing. Set the tarts, when so done, into a very gentle oven to harden. But take care not to let them stand too long, for that will discolor them.

To make an Almond Tart very good. --To half a pound of almonds blanched, and very finely beat with orange-flower water, put a pint of thick cream, two large Naples biscuits grated, and five yolks of eggs, with near half a pound of sugar; put all into a dish garnished with paste, and lay slips in diamonds across the top; bake it in a cool oven; and when drawn out, stick slips of candied citron in each diamond.

To make Apple or Pear Tarts. --Pare them first, then cut them into quarters, and take the cores out; in the next place, cut each quarter across again; throw them so prepared into a saucepan, with no more water in it than will just cover the fruit; let them simmer over a slow fire till they are perfectly tender. Before you set your fruit on the fire, take care to put a good large piece of lemon-peel into the water. Have the patty-pans in readiness, and strew fine sugar at the bottom; then lay in the fruit, and cover them with as much of the same sugar as you think convenient. Over each tart pour a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and three spoonfuls of the liquor in which they were boiled. Then lay the lid over them, and put them into a slack oven.

If the tarts be made of apricots, &c. you must neither pare them, nor cut them, nor stone them, nor use lemon juice, which is the only material difference between these and other fruit.

Observe, with respect to preserved tarts, only lay in the preserved fruit, and put a very thin crust over them, and bake them as short a time as possible.

To make Orange or Lemon Tarts. --Take six large lemons, rub them very well wi