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Title: Jennie June's American Cookery Book...
Author: Croly, Jane Cunningham
Publisher: New York: American News Co.

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> GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF COOKING.

1. The object of cooking is to make food healthful, and palatable; the secret is therefore, how to combine elements and flavors, so as to produce the best results.

2. The best meat requires the simplest preparation.

3. A cardinal principle in cooking is cleanliness; a dirty cook cannot be a good cook, because all her dishes, no matter how distinct in quality, or costly in material, will taste as if, to use a common expression, they were "cooked in one pot."

4. As a general rule, to which there are very few exceptions, cook long and slowly, to cook well, and let the heat reach every part as evenly as possible.

5. Fresh meats, and fish are better than corned, pickled, or smoked provisions; and the flesh of grown animals, (beef or mutton) is to be preferred to young beasts, such as veal or lamb.

6. The natural order in cooking meats or fish, excepting oysters, is first to broil, second to boil, third to roast, fourth to stew, fifth to bake, and sixth to fry; and never to fry, as long as there is another method left.

7. To retain the juices in boiled meat, keep it in mass and plunge it in boiling water; this coagulates the outer coating and prevents the escape of the jucies, or soluable matter. To extract the jucies for soup, cut it up in small pieces, and put it in cold water; this draws out all the strength, making good soup, but poor meat.

8. Air should have access to roasting meat, hence spit roasting before a fire, is found much better than roasting in a closed oven.

9. Always retain as much as possible of the distinct flavor of every article of food used; mixtures which make all dishes taste alike, are dyspepsia breeding, as well as appetite killing.

10. Carefully avoid placing articles in contact, which have no


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affinity, such as fish and meat, etc. It is sufficient for people to do that in their stomachs.

11. A light hand in making, a quick step in baking, maketh a good conscience for eating bread, puddings, and pies.

12. Food for the well, is better than physic for the sick. Bad cooking is a crime; it is the cause of dyspepsia, and a host of other evils. A woman convicted of it ought to be arrainged for manslaughter.

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> HOUSEKEEPING.

The great question when a young couple are going to be married is, whether they shall keep house or board. The gentleman, as a general rule, wishes to keep house, he is tired of boarding; moreover, he had anticipated so much enjoyment in a snug little house of their own, and so much pride and pleasure in seeing his pretty Nellie at the head of his table, doing the honors to the choicest of his friends.

But Nellie has quite different ideas; in the first place, she knows nothing about cooking. She has, with the help of her mother, or the cook, made cake once or twice, or possibly blanc-mange, which was very much praised; but of the practical details required in the getting up of the most ordinary breakfast, dinner, or supper, she knows nothing, and has not the remotest intention or inclination to become acquainted with them.

The final result is, that they go to "board" in some highly genteel establishment, where the prices are high in proportion to the gentility and lack of real comfort, and some fine morning the young gentleman wakes up to the knowledge that he is tied to a wife who doubles his expenses, but has added nothing to his happiness, or at any rate, nothing to the real value and usefulness of his life.

This is a matrimonial swindle. Girls ought not to marry until they are ready and willing to accept the position of head of a household, and capable of making a home what it should be to husband and children.

If a man can find a woman to act as his mistress for her board and clothes, well and good--there is no law to prevent it; but for a woman bearing the honored name of wife to hold so dependent and humilating a position, is fearful degradation.

The marriage relation is one of reciprocal interests, duties, and responsibilities; and no young lady ought to marry until she is


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willing to assume her share of them. True affection on the part of the husband will lighten, and make duties pleasures, but whatever aspect they bear, she must not shrink from them. If she has not received the training necessary to fit her for the position, it is her misfortune; but it will be her fault, if she does not try as far as possible to remedy the evil.

Want of means constitutes no sort of reason why young married people should not go to housekeeping. What we spend on foolish and useless gewgaws and presents would, in nine cases out of ten, if usefully applied, set them up in a style quite in accordance with their means, if not their inclination.

But it is not for themselves they fear. They are willing, or at least they think so, to live together in an attic; but society! Well, what has society got to do with it? Society will not pay your butcher's and grocer's bills, nor care a copper whether they are paid or not. Society will eat ice-cream, oysters, and cake of your providing, but that is not what you are marrying for.

You have chosen a comparatively poor man, your business is to adapt yourself to his circumstances, to make the most of his means in providing a pleasant home, and bringing up carefully and conscientiously the children which may be given you. If society find you out, or if you find it worth while to fill up any of the chinks or interstices with occasional glimpses of the false, glittering, outside world--good! you will come back to your sweet home with so much the more relish; but do not marry it, do not sacrifice your own sense of duty, and the happiness and welfare of husband and family to it.

Talk of happiness,--there is none like that of an intelligent, affectionate family circle. There is no pleasure, no enjoyment equal to that of a mother ministering to the wants, or gratifying the natural and innocent tastes of her children. The pleasure is all the greater, because it is a surprise.

Young women very often dread the exacting care of a family, and expect to find wifely and maternal duties irksome and wearisome; that is the reason why they would so willingly escape them, as they fancy, by boarding, and not having children.

But unfortunately, or fortunately, God has managed it so that we cannot take the pleasures of life without bearing its pains; we


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cannot shirk a plain line of duty, without incurring the penalty. But we can, and do, by taking upon ourselves bravely, its burdens, find an exaltation of womanhood, and a hight and depth of happiness, such as we never before dreamed of.

Exceptions are said to exist to every general rule; but there are very few to this, that when people marry, they ought to set right about making a home of their own. If you can only afford two rooms, live in two rooms. If your means will compass a small house, but not a large one, then take the small one, and be happy and thankful.

I would not give a wisp of straw for a young woman who does not want, on her marriage, to occupy her own little domain; who does not revel in anticipation over the contents of kitchen and closet, if there is only a small cook stove in one, and a set of delf in the other. But this suggests a matter of some importance.

> KITCHEN FURNISHING.

In selecting a house to live in, particularly if it is a small one, give the preference to a pleasant, sunny kitchen, which will at least look clean when it is clean, and into which it will not be disagreeable to enter.

As a general rule, buy as little as possible on first going to housekeeping; it is easy to add more when experience has discovered to you precisely what you want; but if you should indulge in any extravagance, let it be in the kitchen furnishing.

It is a real pleasure to get a glimpse of an orderly kitchen and neat closets, newly fitted up with all the useful modern contrivances for saving labor, and making it agreeable, and as the whole cost would not amount to more than one expensive carpet, it is not worth while to do without them.

It is economical, moreover, to have all kitchen utensils of the best quality; cheap pans, brushes, pails, earthenware and the like, are not only an "eyesore" in a house, and bad or disagreeable to use, but they are good for nothing; they eternally want replacing,


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while a really good article is not only taken better care of, but will stand infinitely more of hard usage.

Oil cloth is the best material for covering a kitchen floor; it is easily kept clean, and does not absorb the dirt and grease.

Short, white muslin curtains to kitchen windows are considered "nonsense" by some people, but they are tidy, and the cost and washing are not much.

Of course the kitchen will be supplied with dresser, table with drawer, and ironing table. As to chairs, three and a common rocker are sufficient; but I would enliven the walls with a picture or two, if possible, and encourage the cook, or maid of all work, to have her monthly rose or pot of geranium in the window.

Under the shelves of the kitchen closets, it is a good plan to have narrow strips of board, in which nails or tacks can be inserted, for the purpose of hanging up all sorts of small articles, such as iron and wooden spoons, sugar and flour sifters, tin strainers, lemon squeezer, lemon grater, egg beater, skewers, small sauce pans, cake turner, rolling pin, and such things as one is most likely to want, and which it is convenient to have in sight.

The floors of all closets should be covered with oil-cloth, so that they can be easily washed up, and kept neat and clean.

> HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Women are sometimes accused of managing too much, and sometimes of not managing at all; but the most perfect system of management is, undoubtedly, that which outwardly betrays itself least, and in the results of which, there is not suspected to have been any management at all.

Regularity is the pivot upon which all household management turns; where there is a lack of system there is a lack of comfort, that no amount of individual effort can supply. Forethought also is necessary, so that the work may be all arranged beforehand; done in its proper order, and at the right time. Never, except in cases of extreme emergency, allow Monday's washing to be put


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off till Tuesday; Tuesday's ironing till Wednesday, or Wednesday's finishing up and "setting to rights," till Thursday. Leave Thursday for extra work; or when that is not required, for resting day, or half holiday, and as a preparation for the up stairs' sweeping and dusting of Friday, and the downstairs' baking and scrubbing of Saturday.

Arrange work so as to save fuel as much as possible. Mix bread at night, so that it will be ready to bake with that "first fire" which always makes the oven hot in the morning. Prepare fruit over night, so that pies or other things can be quickly made and baked immediately after. Prepare hashes for breakfast, over night. Have the kitchen and dining room put in order before retiring to rest. Have kindlings and whatever is needed for building fires laid ready, and the fire in the kitchen raked down, so that it can be built up in the shortest possible space of time. This is not only a saving in the morning, but will be found useful in case of illness in the night, when a fire is often required at a moment's notice.

Try to buy in as large quantities as possible, so as to save the perpetual running out to the grocery. Supplies on hand also enable the housekeeper to provide a more varied table, with far greater economy than is possible where every thing is bought by the half a pound, more or less.

Every family that can possibly find means to do it, or a place to properly keep the articles, should commence winter with fuel, potatoes, apples, flour, and butter, enough to last till Spring. A good supply of hominy, rice, farina, Indian meal, preserved fish, and other staples, including sugar, should also be laid in, not forgetting a box of raisins, one of currants, a third of soap, and a fourth of starch.

There is such an immense saving in soap well dried, that it is surprising so many housekeepers content themselves with buying it in damp bars. Starch also is frightfully wasted by quarter, and half pound purchases, which are frequently all absorbed at one time, by careless girls, in doing the washing for a small family.

But in most American families, the largest amount of waste, probably, takes place in the use of fuel. Heretofore, fuel of all kinds has been comparatively cheap, and very little supervision has


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been exercised over its use. At present rates however, it is an item of considerable importance; and it is quite time that servants were taught how to employ it to the best advantage.

In nine out of ten kitchens, when there is any cooking to be done the range is made red hot; when the cooking is done, the fire is left to go down to ashes, and is then raised by means of a wasteful pile of kindling wood. When no cooking is going on, and a large fire is not needed, the dampers will frequently be left open, and the fuel allowed to blaze itself out up the chimney instead of being kept in reserve for actual service.

The general principle of construction upon which American kitchen stoves and ranges is based, renders them either very economical, or very much otherwise, according to the way they are managed. After the fire is first built in an ordinary stove, or range, the dampers ought all to be closed up and not opened again during the day, except while broiling, or something of that sort. If the grate is kept clear, and the fire replenished with a small quantity of coal, before it begins to get low, both the oven, and the top of the range will be kept sufficiently hot for any kind of cooking, and it will be done all the better for being done somewhat more slowly, than is customary with the well meaning, but terribly blundering, and irresponsible race of wild Irish girls, who officiate as the high priestesses of our domestic altars.

The strictest attention on the part of a house-keeper, is necessary, to see that certain articles are kept for their proper use; for instance, that the dish cloth is not used for a floor cloth, that the napkins are not used to wipe up the dishes, the dish towels as dusters, a new broom to sweep out the back yard, and the best new enamelled sauce pan, for melting down grease.

Where the lady of the house attends partly to her own work, she will naturally see to all these things; but where it is left wholly to servants, there are always complaints of missing articles, and an inspection of the kitchen, or ironing table drawer, would generally bring them all to light, although in a state almost unrecognizable, from dirt, and their contiguity to whitening, hair oil, candle grease, combs and brushes, and other articles, all of which it is found "handy" to keep in a drawer in the kitchen, with mats, table cloths, towels, and other things destined for family use.

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It is hardly necessary after this to say that a kitchen being once provided with necessary and convenient articles for cleaning and cooking, the presiding genius should be held to a strict accountability for them. Pudding cloths should be forthcoming whenever wanted,--dry, clean, and free from stains; towels, napkins, pans, bowls, and cooking utensils, should be kept strictly to their uses, and not put away till perfectly clean and dry.

Ironing sheets, blankets, skirt board, bosom board, iron holder, rubber, and the like, should be kept smoothly folded in the drawer of the ironing table, when not in use.

The shelves of kitchen, dining-room, and other closets, should be covered with fresh paper, neatly cut out on the edges, once in two weeks, and dusted down twice a week.

Pot closets, safes, and refrigerators, should be thoroughly scrubbed out every week, and the latter aired every day.

Good brooms and brushes will last a long time if care is taken of them. When first bought they should be allowed to stand in cold water for twelve hours, and then thoroughly dried before using. When not in use, they should be hung up by a loop of twine, or cord, so that the weight may not rest on the edge of the splinters, and break them. Four large brooms should be provided, one for the kitchen, one for the parlor, one for the sleeping rooms, and one for the family, or "living" room. A "whisk" will be required for every room in the house, besides one for the hall.

As soon as the kitchen broom is worn down so as to render it unfit to sweep the floor with ease and comfort, take it for the cellar, door steps, and back yard; take the one from the sitting room for the kitchen, the one from the parlor to the sitting room, and get a new one for the parlor.

Exact punctuality in serving the meals, and punctual attendance at them; it is oftener the fault of the family, than the servants, that meals are served at irregular hours. Where the members make a practice of sitting down any time, and food is kept waiting until it suits their pleasure or convenience to partake of it, irrespective of household necessities, servants, or any one else, will naturally become careless and neglectful.

> HOUSEHOLD MEMORANDA.

Dried herbs should be tied each separately in a paper bag, and


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hung against the wall in the store-room. Mint, pennyroyal, catnip, sage, thyme, summer-savory and parsley, are all good to have in the house.

Parsley should be bunched before it goes to seed, and hung up to dry. In a week, or two, it may be put in paper bags, and is ready for use, for soup, stuffing, or fricassee.

> PIECE BAGS.

Out of an old calico dress make three piece bags, and label each one of them with its written name upon a small square piece of white muslin, which must be sewn upon the side of the bag. One should be the "rag-bag," another the "white piece-bag," a third, the "colored piece-bag,"--they will be found very useful.

> DUSTERS.

Provide a duster, as well as a feather brush, and a whisk broom, for every room in the house, and see that they are kept in their place, when not in use.

> KITCHEN HOLDERS.

Make three kitchen holders, one to put away with the ironing apparatus, two others, to be hung up, one each side, under the kitchen mantle piece, so as to be ready for lifting pots and kettles off the fire, or taking hold of the hot handle of a sauce pan, or skillet. Small squares of old, or new carpet, are best, with an inner lining of old cloth, and an outer one of dark twilled cotton, which may either be sewed to the edge of the carpet, or the whole may be bound with worsted binding. Add a loop to hang it up by.

> PAPER AND STRING.

When parcels are brought to the house, take the nice white, or brown tissue paper, in which the goods have been wrapped, fold it and put it away in a drawer, with the string tied round it, to be ready for use in case of emergency.

> MENDING.

When you put the clean clothes away for the family, examine every piece, and see if a string, or a button needs replacing, or


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a fracture requires mending. Pile all together, and repair them at once, remembering that a stitch in time saves nine.

> MENDING STOCKINGS.

Mending stockings for a large family, is a somewhat onerous, and not altogether agreeable duty. As soon as the daughters are old enough they should be set to mending their own; but even then, there is sometimes a large pile for "mother's" work basket. Do not hurry them; however, mend them conscientiously, if it is only one pair at a time. Have needle and darning cotton of the proper size, take a large area in every direction beyond the hole, leave loops at each end of the thread, as it is drawn out, for shrinkage--and darn carefully and extensively over all the thin places. Hose mended in this way will not require the process more than twice, during their existence, provided the quality in the first place was the best. Cheap hose are not worth buying at all.

> RAINY DAYS.

Make the house look as bright as possible inside, have something good for tea, put on a pretty dress, light up early, romp with the children, tell them stories, and determine at least to have sunshine in the house, if you cannot have it outside.

PACKING AWAY SUMMER OR WINTER CLOTHES.

Before packing away summer or winter clothes, devote a day to an examination of them; mend, and clean any spots off that may require it, brush, and shake them well, fold up smoothly, and sprinkle between every fold a little gum camphor, unless you are so fortunate as to have cedar chests, and then you will not need it. Sprinkle a little gum camphor also on the bottom of common trunks or chests, pack closely, filling up all the crevices, with small articles such as stockings, gloves, scarfs, hoods and the like, reserving the body part of the box for the larger garments.

Nice dresses, velvet cloaks, opera cloaks, furs, and the like, should be folded in sheets, or towels, pinned tightly down, and be placed in the trays, or hollow part of trunks, by themselves, if possible.

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> CAKE BOX.

Have a japanned box, or large jar, for cake, which will shut down tight. Cover it with a linen cloth, which should be put in the wash once in two weeks. Empty the box, scald it out, and let it dry in the sun, or before the fire, every week.

CHAMBER, MANTEL, AND TOILET COVERS.

White Marseilles, thin pique or Allendale quilting, edged with white ball, or twisted fringe, makes nice covers for toilet stands, or chamber mantels, especially where cottage furniture is used. If the furniture is very handsome black walnut, or rosewood, elegant mantel covers may be made, by tacking patent maroon velvet on a thin board, and edging it with bullion fringe.

TO CLEAN LOOKING GLASSES.

Divide a newspaper in two halves, fold up one in a small square and dip it in cold water. Rub the glass first with the wet half of the paper, and dry with the other. Fly specks, and all other dirty marks will disappear as if by magic.

> TO TAKE OUT SCORCH.

If a shirt bosom, or any other article has unfortunately been scorched in ironing, lay it where bright sunshine will fall straight upon it. It will take it entirely out, leaving it clean and white as snow.

> LABEL CHILDREN.

Into the crowns of the hats or bonnets of little children, sew a square of writing paper, stating age, and residence. This will save them from any danger of being lost.

> WASH RAGS.

Small squares of crash hemmed, make very nice wash rags, or small, coarse tea napkins, fringed on the sides; very good ones may also be made out of the best part of old dinner napkins, or tablecloths. Be careful always to supply them to every sleeping-room with the towels, and see that they are changed once a week.

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> NIGHT CLOTHES.

Never wear anything at night that you have worn during the day, nor during the day, that you have worn at night.

TO PUT OUT FIRE.

In all such cases, great promptitude and quickness is necessary. The thing to be done is, to crush it out; either with rugs, mats, blankets, or whatever else is handy.

If the fire is in a chimney, fire a pistol into it, or put salt on it, and close up the draft of the fire-place, by pinning a quilt up over it. This last precaution alone will generally prevent danger, unless there should happen to be a high wind.

SHEETS.

When sheets are beginning to wear in the middle, sew the selvage sides together, tear them in two, and hem down the sides; they will last enough longer to pay for the trouble, especially at present price of muslin.

> PAY AS YOU GO.

Keep no books, and never run accounts with stores; pay for what you buy when you buy it, and so save much money and trouble and prevent many very disagreeable mistakes.

HOW TO CLEAR A TABLE.

Collect all the food together first, and dispose of it, neatly, and carefully. Put all the spoons together, all the forks together, and all the knives together, If you have a small pitcher partly full of warm water on the table, put the knives into that, blades down. Scrape the plates clean, and empty all the slops from the tea and coffee cups, into the slop bowl. Have ready your clean light wooden tub, two thirds full of hot water, little mop, piece of soap, and tin pan of warm water for rinsing. Wash the glasses first, with a little soap, and rinse them, then the spoons, then the cups and saucers, then the silver forks, then the plates, lastly, the larger dishes. Dry quickly with nice large fine linen crash towels. Be careful not to put the handle of knives into hot water, or silver


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knives where they can touch the forks, as that will scratch them. The quicker the whole operation is performed, the brighter and nicer the ware will be.

> MATTRESSES.

Mattresses are used universally now in preference to feather beds; and to save trouble, some people straighten the clothes over them, just as they rise. This is very bad, they ought to be turned every day, and exposed to the air some time before the bed is made up.

> HINTS ON ECONOMY.

PROVIDE ON SATURDAY for Monday, so as not to take up the fire with cooking, or time in running errands, any more than is possible on washing day.

WAIT TILL ARTICLES, fruit, fish, poultry and vegetables, are in full season, before purchasing. They are then not only much lower in price than when first brought to market, but finer in quality and flavor.

OUTSIDE GARMENTS, bonnets, cloaks, hats, shawls, scarfs and the like, will last clean and fresh much longer, if the dust is carefully removed from them by brushing and shaking after returning from a ride or a walk.

WHEN YOUR APPLES begin to rot, pick the specked ones out carefully; stew them up with cider and sugar, and fill all your empty self-sealing cans. In this way you may keep in nice apple sauce till apples come again.

PICKLE OR PRESERVE JARS should be washed in lukewarm or cold water, and dried in the sun or near the fire. Hot water cracks the polished surface of the inside, and renders them unfit for their specific use.

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NEVER ALLOW CHILDREN to eat butter with meat or gravy; it is both wasteful and injurious.

HOT BUCKWHEAT CAKES will go farther and last longer than any other single article of food. A celebrated judge declared that he could remain in court all day, without feeling a symptom of hunger, after a breakfast of buckwheat cakes.

A STEW is not a bad dish for a family dinner, once a week; make it of good meat, and savory with sweet herbs, and the most fastidious will not object to it.

RISE EARLY on fine summer mornings, and throw all the windows of the house open, so that it may exchange its close atmosphere, for the cool, fresh air. Have the work done before the heat of the day comes on, and save it as much as possible during the warmest weather.

TAKE CARE OF THE FOOD that is brought into the house, and see that none of it is wasted; but do not be always on the lookout for cheap things. Beans are cheap, and very good sometimes; corn meal is cheap too, and even more available, because it can be made into a great variety of dishes, but people would not care to live on beans and corn meal all the time, because they are cheap. Eating is intended as a means of enjoyment, as well as of sustaining life; and it is right to avail ourselves of the abundant resources provided, as far as we can consistently.

USE TEA LEAVES, or short, freshly cut grass, to sprinkle upon carpets before sweeping. It will freshen up the colors, and save the usual cloud of dust.

HAVE EVERYTHING CLEAN, on Saturday night, something nice for tea, and also for Sunday morning breakfast. Let the approach of the Sabbath be anticipated in all things, with pleasure. Stay at home with the children on Sabbath evening, and finish the day with a sacred concert.

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ALLOW NO HOLES, or corners in the house, in drawers, on shelves, or in closets, for the stowing away of dirty rags, old bottles, grease-pots, and broken crockery. When bottles are emptied, let them be cleaned, and put down in the cellar, until they are wanted. Harbor no dirty grease pots, and when an article is broken past recovery, throw it away at once; there is no use in keeping it to collect dust, and cobwebs.

MAKE A POINT of examining safe, refrigerator, closets, drawers, and all receptacles for food, and kitchen articles, at least as often as once a week, either Saturday, or washing day. Look into pickle jars, bread jars, cake jars, butter tubs, apple, and potato barrels, everything in fact, examine their condition, see if they are kept covered and clean, and that food put away, is not left to spoil, or be wasted.

THE FEWER SERVANTS THE BETTER--two requires a third to wait upon them, and so on ad infinitum. Have good servants however, pay good wages, and make them responsible for their work.

IF IT IS POSSIBLE, and when there is a will there is a way, call your household together, after breakfast every morning, and have domestic worship, be it ever so short. A verse of a hymn, a passage from the Bible, and just a few words of heartfelt prayer, and praise, sets everything right for the day, smooths ruffled tempers, and puts the domestic machine in nicely running order. It is also no bad preparation for the temptations and annoyances of business.

BEFORE SWEEPING a room, have the furniture, and especially all the small articles, dusted and removed. This keeps them looking fresh, and new.

WEAR PRETTY MORNING DRESSES; they are inexpensive, and easily preserved from injury, by a large calico apron enveloping the skirt of the dress, and sleeves of the same kind, gathered into a band, top, and bottom, and extending over the elbows. These can be slipped on and off in a minute, and with a bib added to the


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apron in front, affords complete protection, while engaged in dusting, making pastry, and the like.

ALWAYS HAVE YOUR TABLE served neatly, and then if friends "happen in," you will not be ashamed to ask them to share your meal. Be hospitable, if it is only a crust, and a cup of cold water; if it is clean and good of its kind, there is no reason to blush for it; the hearty welcome will make amends for the absence of rich viands.

IF CHILDREN WANT ANYTHING between meals, which they should not, give them a cracker, or an apple; do not encourage an irregular and unhealthy appetite, by giving them pie, cake, or ginger-bread.

RULES FOR EATING.

1. Eat slowly as if it was a pleasure you desired to prolong, rather than a duty to be got rid of as quickly as possible.

2. Don't bring your prejudices, your dislikes, your annoyances, your past misfortunes, or future forebodings, to the table--they would spoil the best dinner.

3. Respect the hours of meals, you have no right to injure the temper of the cook, destroy the flavor of the viands, and the comfort of the family, by your want of punctuality.

4. Have as much variety in your food as possible, but not many dishes served at one time.

5. Find as little fault with the food prepared as possible, and praise whenever you can.

6. Finally, be thankful, if you have not meat, that you have at least an appetite, and hope for something more and better in the future.

> THE USE OF FUEL.

There is no department of housekeeping in which our national spirit of waste and extravagance is more clearly exemplified, than


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in our use of fuel. Even the enormous advance in prices has led to no retrenchment or reform in this respect. Coal and wood are just as recklessly as ever, shovelled into the cellar. Bridget makes the same blazing fires, subject to no supervision, except a faint, general direction, to "sift the cinders every morning;" and Bridget says "yes'm" as usual, but there being nobody to see, or know whether she does or not, in nineteen cases out of twenty, she does not do it.

Every little while through the day, the fires are raked down, and fresh coal put on, the dampers of stove or range left wide open, and for so much cooking as a cup of tea, or a dish of potatoes, a fresh fire built with range made red hot, and as much fuel wasted as would have cooked a thanksgiving dinner.

GRATE FIRES.

These are generally considered as requiring a great deal of coal, and so they do, under the usual system of management in this country. But let us see how they manage grate fires in England.

The grate is cleared, with the exception of a few scattering cinders, which forms a sort of body, for the paper, which is torn up in small pieces, and crushed down, and the wood, which is neatly and compactly laid "across and across." When the largest and best cinders remaining are picked out and thrown on, a match is applied, cinders are still put on wherever they are needed to catch the blaze, and when the wood is burnt down, and the cinders are all a-glow, fresh coal is used to fill up the grate. The ashes are then sifted, the cinders, which are fine and small, damped, and when the fire has burned red through, without the use of the blower, the wet cinders are thrown on the top. In this way a grate fire will last through a whole day with once replenishing, and keep a room warmer than we do, without blaze, our frequent use of the blower, and reckless waste of fuel.

> KITCHEN RANGES.

Nearly all of these are built on the air tight principle, and should be kept closed up tight all the time. The fire will be found to burn equally well, though more moderately; the oven will be always hot, and cooking can be done slowly, as it ought, on the


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top of the range, with much less trouble, and infinitely better than if "rushed through," at a red heat.

> PARLOR HEATERS.

These new heaters are very good for small houses; we used one for years, with great satisfaction, and found it quite as efficient, and much safer, more convenient and more economical than a furnace.

Parlor heaters are fitted into the wall, and take up no more room than a grate; they should be attended to with regularity, and then the fire will hardly ever need to go out; once in two months is quite as often as it requires to be made up fresh. At night, wetted cinders should be thrown on the fire so as to thickly cover it while it is good, and the dampers shut up close; these will keep the fire almost intact till the next morning, when a thorough raking down will be needed. A parlor heater properly managed, burns out about as much coal as one large grate or two small stoves; but excepting in the very coldest weather, it will comfortably heat the whole house.

> SPRING FUEL.

Coke is excellent fuel for spring and fall, if it is carefully and rightly used; but if it is mixed with hard coal and thrown on a kitchen fire by a reckless servant, at discretion, it becomes equally extravagant and useless. Coke makes a bright, hot fire, kindles easily, and goes out easily; but it can also be made to last a long while, by packing it a little on top, and neglecting to rake it down. This is the method for early spring, when fires are required in the morning and evening, but not much through the sunshiny part of the day.

A great saving is effected in spring fuel, by putting the "slack" from coal, in a heap by itself, and with it, ashes from which the cinders have not been taken. Dampen the heap occasionally with a little water, and add to it, whenever there is material. Doing this through the coldest weather will form a sort of compost, hard and insoluble, which can be broken apart, and furnishes splendid fuel for spring grate fires, or for parlor heaters.

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> SOUPS.

> STOCKS.

Stock is the foundation of soups, and also of good gravies, sauces, and the like. A French cook can do nothing without the stock pot, and keeps it supplied in a way that is both useful, and economical.

Stock can be made to keep for a considerable time, and be used for many purposes, if occasional additions are made, and the whole of the liquor re-scalded. It may be made from meat, or from bones, or from both, or it may be made from bones with the addition of refuse meat, the trimmings of regular joints. Chicken and turkey bones may be thrown in, and will help to enrich, and give flavor to the preparation. Any kind of bones with a little meat upon them, will make good stock, if they are simmered, not boiled, long enough, and beef, mutton, veal, poultry, and other bones may be stewed together. In stewing them down, use the liquor if you have it, in which other meat has been boiled, so that nothing may be wasted. Shank bones, trimmings from chops, any thing of this sort may be thrown in, simmered all day, then poured into a jar, and the fat removed the next morning. It is then frequently a jelly, and ready to convert into soup, with the aid of herbs, and vegetables--or kept for other uses. Stock sours very soon after the vegetables have been boiled in it, so it is best not to put the vegetables in till needed for soup.

If your stock is made of meat, or partly of meat, cut it up fine, and always put it on in cold water, if the water is hard, put a pinch of soda in it. This will extract all the pieces of the bones and meat. If on the contrary, you want to boil meat, and retain its pieces, put it on in boiling water. [See the Principles of Cooking.]

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STOCK FROM BONES.

Take the bones of a sirloin of beef, break them into half a dozen pieces or more, put them in the stock pot with a gallon of cold water; and let them simmer gently for five or six hours. Then take it off, strain it--it ought to make about two quarts--and set it aside for several hours, or over night. When cold, skim off the fat. Then return it to the pot with a turnip, and a large carrot cut up in two or three pieces, two onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, a sprig or two of parsley, and a head of celery if it can be obtained, or a teaspoonful of celery-seed tied in a piece of muslin. Let these simmer together gently for two hours, adding boiling water to keep the quantity two quarts, and putting in also while boiling a little salt and a large lump of sugar; when done, strain it off into a jar, and you have a good stock, which can be kept several days, in a cool place in winter, or by being boiled over each day, in summer.

STOCK WITHOUT MEAT.

Put into a stew pan ten carrots, as many turnips and onions cut in small pieces, two lettuces, two sticks of celery, a handful of chervil, half a cabbage and a parsnip cut in slices; add to these three ounces of butter and a quart of water; stew them till the liquid is nearly dried up, and then fill the stewpan with water; add a quart of peas, green or dried, according to the season, two chives, some pepper and salt; stew slowly three or four hours and strain through a colander for use.

BRAN STOCK.

Put a large handful of bran into a quart of water, boil and leave to simmer till the quantity is reduced to half. This will do excellently for the thickening of meat soup. It will make very good soup of itself, if onions, salt and pepper, with a few vegetables, are mixed in it. It will also be good sweetened with molasses or honey.

COW HEEL STOCK.

A cow heel in two quarts of water will make first rate stock, but


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do not get boiled cow heels. The others take more boiling, but make much richer stock, and may be used more than once.

FOUR QUARTS OF BROWN STOCK.

Heat an iron pot and rub the bottom with garlic. Put in ten pounds of shin of beef, fresh killed, and a pint of water; let it stand by the fire for an hour, then add three quarters of a pound of lean ham, three onions, three carrots, a small head of celery, four cloves, six allspice, ten peppercorns, a table-spoonful of brown sugar, a tea-spoonful of mustard, a tea-spoonful of salt, a large black onion, and six quarts of water. Simmer and skim frequently for six hours. Strain into an earthen dish, and when cold, remove the fat; a fine hair sieve dipped in cold water is good to strain it with.

FOUR QUARTS OF WHITE STOCK.

Put into an iron pot a knuckle of veal, about seven pounds, a cow heel, and an old fowl; add a turnip, two onions, a lettuce, a blade of mace, quarter of a nutmeg, half a pound of lean ham, a tea-spoonful of salt, a small bunch of sweet herbs, and six quarts of water. Simmer gently, and skim frequently, for six hours. Strain into an earthen dish, and when cold, take off the fat.

COMMON SOUP.

Take the neck, shanks, scraps of fresh meat, or old fowls. Let your meat, beef, mutton, fowls, or game, be cut into small pieces, and the bones cracked up well. Put the pieces into a pot and cover them with as much water as will stew them into rags; stew them very slowly, then pour in some boiling water, and keep the soup boiling to within a few minutes of serving. Skim it entirely free from grease. Take out whatever you wish to set away for the next day before you put in the vegetables. Now cut up vegetables (previously cooked by themselves), in it slice potatoes, okra, turnips, carrots, any vegetable you like, or rice or barley. If there is any vegetable,--for instance, onions, cabbage, or tomatoes,--which you wish to give distinctive character to your soup, use that vegetable entirely, in connection with potatoes and okra, which give consistency without any very discernible taste. If your soup lacks


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richness, a few spoonfuls of drawn butter will help; if consistency, some gelatine may be dissolved in it. A bouquet of sweet herbs is indispensable. A rich soup is sometimes flavored with wine or catsup. It is as well to offer these articles to each person, as also the castor at the table.
Vermicelli or macaroni may be used as a substitute for okra.

SOUP OR STOCK FROM ONE POUND OF BEEF.

Take one pound of lean beef, free from fat, mince it finely and add to it its own weight of cold water; heat it very slowly to boiling, two or three hours is not too much, let it boil briskly a minute or two, strain it through a towel. Mix the liquid with salt and other seasoning, tinge it darker with roast onions or burnt sugar. Dr. Liebig says this forms the best soup that can be prepared from one pound of flesh.

FISH SOUPS.

A variety of good soups can be made of fish by stewing them down in the same manner as meat, with the same addition of vegetables and herbs. If the skin is coarse, strip it off before using the fish, and when stewing skim off the oily particles.

WINTER SOUP.

Take a shin of beef, boil it in two gallons of water down to one gallon; pour it out after removing the bones, and let it cool. This will be one mass of jelly, from which as much can be taken daily as may be needed in the quantity of soup desired. Stew the vegetables or cook the rice, split peas, beans, and add all together with as much water as may be necessary, and let it boil well.

SORREL SOUP WITHOUT MEAT.

Wash a handful of sorrel, add some chervil, lettuce, and leeks; chop all very fine, and stew with salt and butter; when the vegetables are done enough, add some stock without meat or water. Let it stew again, and before you serve, add the yolks of three or four eggs well beaten, with some cream or good milk, taking care it does not boil after the eggs are added. Season to taste. Sorrel is prepared for winter in jars, first chopped, then pounded and seasoned. It must be closely covered.

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RABBIT SOUP.

Cut up your rabbit and put it into a soup-pot, with a ham bone, a bunch of sweet herbs, a bay leaf, an onion stuck with cloves, some whole pepper, and let it simmer till the meat is tender, then cut off the meat into neat squares, return the bones and trimmings into the soup, and let it simmer till the meat is in rags; then strain it, and thicken it with flour and butter, mixed on the fire, without being browned; add a pint of highly seasoned stock, or if desired a pint of red wine--port is best--season to taste and let all simmer together with the meat that was cut off. Serve hot.

SPRING SOUP.

Cut an equal quantity of carrots, turnips, onions and leeks; stew them in some good stock; then add some French beans, peas, bean cucumbers, asparagus tops, lettuces, sorrel and chervil; add a little bit of white sugar; let these reduce to nearly a glaze; then add them to some stock thickened with grean peas rubbed through a tammy. The soup might be thickened, to vary it, with asparagus rubbed through a tammy; in this case all the vegetables should be strained off, and some asparagus tops served only in the soup.

SOUP FOR INVALIDS.

Boil two pounds of lean veal and a quarter of a pound of pearl barley in a quart of water very slowly, until it becomes of the consistency of cream. Pass it through a fine sieve and salt it to taste. Flavor it with celery seed, if the taste be liked, or use fresh celery, if in season,--a very small quantity would suffice. It should simmer very slowly. This soup is very nourishing.

GUMBO.

Take a large fowl, cut in pieces, beat up and fry very brown, and make with it a highly seasoned and rich gravy. Cut into it a half gallon of tender green okra, as many ripe tomatoes, and pour on three pints of boiling water; boil until the vegetables are of the softest consistency, and chicken in rags. Stir in a heaping tablespoon of young sassafras leaves, dried and reduced to a


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powder. Strain into your dish hot. When well made this will almost rope like candy. Pepper, onions, and sweet herbs are used profusely in this soup, with salt to savor it.

WHITE SOUP.

Put four or five turnips, four leeks, two heads of celery, washed and sliced, into the saucepan with a piece of butter and a knuckle of ham; add a quart of stock, and let all stew together till tender. When nearly done, put in a pint of milk and some small pieces of bread; boil up two or three times, strain it and serve it hot.

MOCK TURTLE SOUP.

Parboil a calf's head divided, and cut all the meat in small pieces; then break the bones and boil them in some beef broth; fry some shalots in butter, add flour to thicken, and stir it in; skim it carefully while it boils up, and add a pint of white wine; let it simmer till the meat is perfectly tender, then put in some chives, parsley, basil, salt, cayenne, soy, and mushroom catsup to your taste, and boil it in for ten minutes; squeeze a little lemon juice into your tureen, pour your soup on it, and serve with force meat balls.

SHEEP'S-HEAD SOUP.

Cut the liver and lights into pieces, and stew them in four quarts of water, with some onions, carrots, and turnips, half pound of pearl barley, pepper, salt, cloves, and a little marjoram, parsley and thyme. Stew all these until nearly done enough, then put in the head and boil it until quite tender, then it should be taken out and everything strained from the liquor. Let this stand till cool, then take off the fat, and thicken it with butter and flour in the same way as mock turtle. A glass of wine may be put into the tureen if desired, before pouring in the soup.

CONCORD SOUP.

Three pounds of neck of beef, one cowheel, one pennyworth of carrots and turnips, part of a head of celery, one bunch of tied up sweet herbs, four onions browned, one pint of peas, all put together


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into three quarts of water. After boiling for some hours, to be well strained before serving up.

CALF'S HEAD SOUP BROWNED.

Strain the liquor the head was boiled in, and set it away until next day; take off all the fat; fry an onion in a little butter in the soup pot, dredge in a little flour, stir until brown; cut up two carrots, two onions, two turnips, and whatever is left of the head, in inch pieces, put them in with the stock, a dozen cloves, pepper and salt; boil it about two hours; braid up a little flour and butter, stir it into the soup, and boil about ten minutes; add, if desired, half a tumbler of red wine; serve hot.

BROWN GRAVY SOUP.

Cut a few onions in pieces, fry them in dripping brown; cut three pounds of beef in pieces, brown this also, stirring and turning both meat and onions as they fry, then put them in the saucepan with a carrot, a turnip cut small, and a little celery if you have it, or two seeds of celery, add three quarts of water to this, stir all together with a little pepper and salt; simmer very slowly and skim off what rises; in three or four hours the soup will be clear. When served, add a little vermicelli, which should have previously been boiled in water; the liquor should be carefully poured off through a sieve.

CHICKEN SOUP.

Take two large old fat chickens; chop up the pieces and mash the bones. Put in a few slices of boiled ham if not too strong. Stew slowly until in rags. Then pour on three quarts of boiling water, and boil it down to half a gallon. Chop up the chickens' hearts, the yolks of four hard boiled eggs, and stir, with a tea cup half full of grated bread crumbs, into a cup of rich sweet cream; strain the soup, return it to the kettle with a bouquet of herbs, boil five minutes, stir in the cream, etc., and take it off quickly.
Any soup of fowl or game may be made in the same way.
Instead of the thickening prepared as above, you may boil in it some rice, or use vermicelli, or macaroni, previously simmered until soft.

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OYSTER SOUP.--1.

Take a shin of veal, put it in a pot with three quarts of water, and a head of celery, pepper, and salt; boil it three hours; then strain it all through a sieve; add a small piece of butter, braided in a table-spoonful of flour; stir it in and give it one boil; have ready, washed out of the liquor, one gallon of oysters; strain the liquor into the soup, let it boil up, then put in the oysters with a spoonful of mushroom sauce; give it one boil and send it to the table very hot.

OYSTER SOUP.--2.

Slice some onions, fry them a light brown in a quarter of a pound of butter, then put them on the fire to stew in some stock, as much as required for your soup,--about half an hour is sufficient; before you serve, add two or three dozen of oysters, with their liquor strained. Thicken with the yolks of three eggs, and season it with white pepper, mace, and salt; it must not boil after the eggs are put in, but thicken like custard. Any kind of good broth or stock makes the foundation. Some add to this before the eggs are put in, a glass of white wine.

OYSTER SOUP.--3.

Mix one pint of water with whatever liquor you can drain from two quarts of fresh oysters. When this liquor comes to a full boil, put the oysters in, and boil until nearly done; then pour in a quart of fresh milk. Season with salt, pepper, and a blade of mace. If you prefer the soup a little thick, powder a half dozen crackers fine, and sift them into it.

OYSTER MOUTH SOUP.

First make a rich mutton broth, pour it on the oysters. Add a small piece of butter rolled in flour, let it simmer gently for about quarter of an hour, then serve it in a dish with crackers in the bottom.

ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH GREEN PEAS.

After cutting the greenest part of the asparagus into pieces


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about an inch or two long, blanch them in boiling water until quite done; add some good stock to it and strain it. Boil the pieces separately, add them to the soup and serve toasted bread with it, if desired.

GREEN PEA SOUP

Take some young carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and cabbage lettuces; cut them in slices, and put them into a stewpan with a little butter, and some lean ham cut in pieces. Cover them closely and let them stew for a short time. Fill up with stock sufficient for the soup required, and let it boil until the vegetables are quite soft, adding a few leaves of mint and the crust of a roll; pound all, and having boiled a quart of peas, as green as you can, strain them off and pound them also; mix them with the rest of the ingredients and pass through a sieve. Heat it, and season with salt, pepper and sugar; add a few young boiled peas, and use the spinach to restore it.

PEA SOUP WITHOUT MEAT.

Boil a pint of split peas in two quarts of water for four or five hours, or until quite tender. Then add two turnips, two carrots, a stick of celery, and some potatoes all cut in pieces. When tender, pulp it through a sieve. Cut a large onion in slices and fry it in butter and flour, to thicken the soup. Season to taste. If desired, a ham bone or a piece of beef can be stewed with the peas, to be taken out when the soup is pulped through the sieve. Serve with the soup pieces of bread fried crisp in butter.

ENGLISH PEA SOUP.

Take a half of a shin of beef, some beef and ham bones, and, if possible, a knuckle of veal, and boil all together, in a gallon of water, with a little salt. Clear it of the scum, as it rises, and have ready a quart of split peas, which have been soaked in cold water over night. Boil the meat very slowly, for two hours, then put in the peas, which will have absorbed the water, with a root of celery, and two or three carrots scraped, and cut in pieces. Sift in, also, a little dried mint, and season to taste. Cook slowly, stirring often with a wooden spoon, for four hours.

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ARTICHOKE SOUP.

Have a knuckle of veal (weighing about five pounds) for dinner. When all have dined, return the bones into the stewpan, with the liquor in which it was boiled, a nice, white onion, and two turnips. Boil some Jerusalem artichokes in milk, (skim milk will do,) then beat up all with the liquor, which, of course, must be first strained, then thickened with a small quantity of flour rubbed smooth in a tea cup, with a little milk. Use white pepper for the seasoning, to keep the color pure.

PARSNIP SOUP.

Cut in pieces half a dozen parsnips, a head of celery, and two onions; stew them in two quarts of stock until they are tender, take them out and pulp them through a coarse sieve, and pour the pulp back into the soup, flavor with pepper and salt, and before serving pour in a little milk.

CARROT SOUP.

Take half a gallon of stock; add three turnips, six carrots, three or four onions, and let them stew till tender. Take out the vegetables, strain the soup; take off the red part of the carrots, and rub it through a colander, make the soup about as thick as cream, with the pulped carrot. Heat it well through and serve.

COLANDERED SOUP.

Boil in water some peas with salt, pepper, and any vegetables. When quite soft mash the whole and bray through a sieve or colander. Instead of split peas you may use carrots, turnips, asparagus, or green peas, etc., as the staple. Put your colandered vegetables back into the pot, and if you have any stock, thin the soup with it; if you have no stock, thin with water, or milk and water. Boil up, and your dish is fit for table.

BARLEY SOUP.

In four quarts of water put two pounds of trimmings or odd pieces of meat, a quarter of a pound of pearl barley, four sliced onions, salt and pepper, with a little parsley, if you have it. Simmer for three hours or more.

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FRENCH SOUP.

Put first a gallon of water to a sheep's head nicely cleaned, then reduce it to half the quantity, and add a teacupful of pearl barley, half a dozen large onions, a turnip, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper, salt, cloves, and a little mushroom or walnut catsup. Strain all off, cut part of the head in pieces and serve it in the soup, with a small quantity of white wine.

PUMPKIN SOUP.

Take three pounds of ripe pumpkin, peel and remove the seeds, cut into pieces of moderate size, and place in a stewpan over the fire with a pint of water; let it boil slowly till soft, strain off all the water, and pass the pumpkin through a colander; return the pulp into the stew pan adding nearly three pints of milk, one ounce or more of butter, a pinch of salt and pepper, and a few lumps of loaf sugar; boil for ten minutes, stirring often. Pour it boiling into the dish, on very thin slices of bread. The sugar improves the flavor, but may be omitted. It can be seasoned with a blade of mace or a little nutmeg.

GOURD SOUP.

Cut two pounds of the gourd into large slices, put it into a pan with three ounces of butter, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, two of moist sugar, a little pepper, and half a pint of water; set on the fire and stew gently for twenty minutes. When reduced to a pulp, add two table-spoonfuls of flour, stir and moisten with three pints of new milk; boil with care ten minutes longer, and serve with toast in slices. Vegetable marrow is equally good, made into soup according to this receipt.

ONION SOUP WITH MILK.

Slice some onions into a stew pan, with a piece of dripping, or lard, and a little flour. When brown add a quart of boiling milk, pepper, salt, and any cold cooked vegetables at hand. Boil up once or twice, and you have a delicious food, without meat or stock.

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ONION SOUP WITH WATER.

Slice some onions into a stewpan, with any grease at hand, and keep them moving about till half brown, then sift in a little flour or fine bread-crumbs, and brown well. Now add a quart of boiling hot water, with salt, pepper, and some cold cooked vegetables. This would be greatly improved if you could contrive to fry in grease a few bits of bread cut into small pieces, and add them to the soup when brown.

TOMATO SOUP.

Boil a shin of veal three hours, or take some soup stock. Cut up two onions, two carrots, and two turnips, and put with it; also pepper, salt and one dozen tomatoes. Boil this two hours, and strain it through a sieve. Toast some pieces of bread a light brown; cut them in dice form, and put them into the dish. The soup should be turned on to the toast just before it is taken to the table, as soaking long spoils it.

BREAD SOUP.

Set the stock on the fire to boil; let it simmer three or four hours. Place in a bowl bits of bread, no matter how hard and stale. Pour over them enough hot broth to soak them well; mash fine, and put the whole into the stock. Let it continue to simmer a few minutes more after the bread mash has been added.

VERMICELLI SOUP.

Put a shin of veal, one onion, two carrots, two turnips, and a little salt, into four quarts of water. Boil this three hours; add two cups of vermicelli, and boil it an hour and a half longer. Before serving take out the bone and vegetable.

JENNY LIND'S SOUP.

The following soup is stated by Miss Bremer, to be the soup constantly served to Mademoiselle Jenny Lind, as prepared by her own cook. The sago and eggs were found by her soothing to the chest, and beneficial to the voice. Wash a quarter of a pound of best pearl sago thoroughly, then stew it quite tender and very


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thick in water or thick broth; (it will require nearly or quite a quart of liquid, which should be poured to it cold and heated slowly;) then mix gradually with it a pint of good boiling cream or milk, and the yolks of four fresh eggs, and mingle the whole carefully with two quarts of strong veal or beef stock, which should always be kept ready boiling. Serve immediately.

GERMAN PANCAKE SOUP.

Make a batter with a pound of flour, a little salt, half a pint of milk; stir well, and add two eggs beaten; it should be of the consistency of cream. Make this into pancakes, fried very pale yellow. As each one is fried, lay it on a board and double over once. Roll each slightly, and cut into strips half an inch wide, and put them into the soup tureen and pour good stock, well seasoned and strained, over them. Serve hot.

SOUP JARDINIERE.

Put a bouquet of finely cut vegetables, consisting of celery, a carrot, an onion, tomatoes,--two if fresh, two table-spoonfuls if canned,--a leek, and a bunch of parsley, in a stew pan, with two ounces of butter, pepper, salt, and cover down for nearly an hour; when cooked soft in the butter add a quart or more of broth, and two table-spoonfuls of cold jelly gravy, and leave the whole to simmer together an hour longer, or until dinner time. During the process of coming to a boil, the butter or grease rising to the top should be skimmed off and preserved, to be clarified for further use.

AN INEXPENSIVE SOUP.

Take three pounds of the neck of beef, one cow heel, carrots and turnips, half a head of celery, one bunch of tied up sweet herbs, four onions browned, one pint of peas; put together into three quarts of water and, after boiling some hours, strain through a sieve. The best part of the cow heel may be cut in square pieces and served up in the soup.

BAKED SOUP.

When baking is more convenient, in four quarts of water put


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one pound of trimmings or odd pieces of meat, two onions, and two sliced carrots, two ounces of rice or bits of bread, one pint of split peas, pepper and salt. Put the whole into a close jar, and bake slowly for four hours. This will make a good, wholesome food for a large family.

HOTCH POTCH.

Put a pint of peas into a quart of water; boil them until they are so tender as easily to be pulped through a sieve. Take of the leanest end of a loin of mutton three pounds, cut it into chops, put it into a saucepan with a gallon of water, four carrots, four turnips, cut in small pieces; season with pepper and salt. Boil until all the vegetables are quite tender; put in the pulped peas a head of celery and a sliced onion. Boil fifteen minutes, and serve.

SCOTCH MUTTON BROTH.

Take the scrag end of a large sized neck of mutton, reserving the best half for cutlets, put it into a stewpan and boil it with three quarts of water, half a pint of Scotch barley, three leeks, three onions, a little parsley and thyme. Skim it, and after it has boiled up, let it stand on the top of the stove and simmer for two hours, then skim again, and if it is too thick with barley add half a pint of boiling water, three or four turnips, a head of celery, and two carrots cut in pieces; after which, let it simmer slowly an hour and a half more; the barley should be almost wholly dissolved. The meat may be cut in pieces and served with the broth or served separately.

BROTH FOR AN INVALID.

Cut the chicken, veal, mutton or beef, up into pieces, and put into a jar with a cover; fill with water, adding a little salt; close down tight, and let it simmer all day on the stove or range; strain, and season to taste. This method extracts all the juices and strength of the meat, and is infinitely better than boiling.

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> MEATS.

TO BOIL BEEF.

If the beef is very salt put it in cold water; if it is only slightly corned put it in boiling water, and let it cook very slowly. This will render it quite as tender as if put into cold water, and at the same time all the juices of the meat will be retained. Boil until tender, but not until ragged, so that the meat will cut clean and clear, when cold.

Never buy poor, cheap pieces of corned beef, they are full of bone and gristle; there is no satisfaction in eating from them, and they prove the most costly in the end.

Fresh beef should never be boiled plain, unless it is boiled down for soup; it may be stewed, or cooked alamode, or stuffed and baked, provided the piece is not suitable for roasting.

STEWED BEEF.

Take six pounds of round of beef, place it in a deep kettle, with half a pint of water, half a pint of broth, a gill of good vinegar, a bunch of parsley, a few cloves, a sprig of sweet marjoram, and some salt, and pepper. Let it lay in this over night, turning it several times, if it is warm weather; it is best to give the mixture a boil up, putting the meat to it cold. The next day simmer four or five hours, adding two onions chopped small; take up the meat, add a tea spoonful of butter braided in flour to the strained liquor, with a dash of mushroom catsup. Pour it over the meat, and serve. If more liquid is required while stewing, put in broth or gravy, if you have it,-if not, water.

CURED BRISKET OF BEEF FOR CHRISTMAS.

At night rub fourteen pounds of brisket of beef, with one ounce of saltpetre pounded very fine; the next morning mix together


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half a pound of sugar, and four handfuls of common salt, and rub the beef well over with it. Let it remain in the pickle two weeks, turning and rubbing it every day; then take it out, and put it into an earthen pan, with some suet chopped fine to cover the bottom of the pan, and the same on the top of the beef, with a little water to keep the pan from burning. Bake it slowly for six hours. Eaten cold.

CURED BEEF, TO EAT COLD.

Put three fourths of a pound of coarse sugar, one pound of bay salt, nearly an ounce of allspice, a tea-spoonful or less of cloves, a small piece of saltpetre, and three cents worth of cochineal, into four quarts of water; let these all boil slowly together fully twenty minutes; then take from the fire, and let it stand till quite cool. Take a round of beef, from twenty to twenty-five pounds, and pour this pickle over it, turning it once or twice a day, continuing this for two or three weeks. At the end of this time it will be ready for use.

BOILED BEEF STEAKS.

It is not necessary to beat them; cut them half an inch thick and place them on the gridiron. The fire should be clear and brisk, the gridiron should be hot, the bars rubbed with suet. Sprinkle a little salt over the fire. Turn the steaks often, keeping a dish close to the fire, in which to drain the gravy from the top of the steak as you lift it. The gridiron is best set in a slanting direction, so that fat will not fall on the coals and make a smoke. If there is a smoke, take the steak off for a moment. Over a brisk fire of coals steaks will be done in ten minutes. Then lay them on a hot plate with a small slice of butter on each piece, pouring over them the gravy, and sprinkling on a very little salt.

BEEF ALAMODE.

Lard a round of beef with slices of fat bacon dipped in vinegar; roll it up with chopped seasoning, cloves, sage, parsley, thyme, pepper and green onions; bind it close and put it in a sauce pan. Tnrn it when half done, and let it stand for twelve hours on a stove. It can be eaten hot or cold.

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BRAISED BEEF.

Take five or six pounds of rump, and cover down close in a pan, with enough butter or clarified dripping to prevent burning or sticking to the pan; let it cook slowly for an hour, then pour off the grease and put in a little broth, half a cup of rich gravy, a few drops of vinegar, and a little calf's-foot jelly, if convenient; cover down closely again and let it cook, with the heat all about it, for two hours longer, basting frequently; when it is quite tender, take it up, and mix half a table-spoonful of flour with a little cream, and put into the gravy, which season to taste, and then pour over the meat, that is to say, a part of it, for an economical cook will reserve part to assist in the preparation of next day's dinner.

BRISKET OF BEEF STUFFED.

A piece weighing eight pounds requires about five or six hours to boil. Make a dressing of bread crumbs, pepper, salt, sweet herbs, a little mace, and one onion chopped fine and mixed with an egg. Put the dressing in between the fat and the lean of the beef and sew it up tight; flour the cloth; pin the beef up very tight in it; boil it five or six hours. When it is done take the cloth off, and press it until it is cold. This is to be cut in thin slices and eaten cold.

MOCK DUCK.

Procure a steak cut from the rump of beef, and fill it with a dressing made of chopped bread, pork, sage, onions and sweet marjoram, and well seasoned; sew it up, put a slice or two of pork, or some of the dressing, on the top, and set it in a pan, into which pour a pint of water; cover down tight, and let it cook slowly in the oven three hours; then take off the lid, brown quickly, and serve hot.

OX CHEEK STUFFED AND BAKED.

Mash and soak thoroughly an ox cheek; put it into plenty of warm water and boil gently an hour, throwing in a large tea spoonful of salt and skimming occasionally. Lift it out, and when cool take out the bones. Put in a good roll of forcemeat; bind up the


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cheek securely, and bake it in a moderate oven an hour or an hour and a half, until it is quite tender clear through. Drain it from fat, unbind it, and serve it with a good brown gravy, or any sauce preferred, or with melted butter in a tureen, a cut lemon and cayenne.

SPICED BEEF.

This can be made from either the round, brisket or rump of beef, but ribs are the most tender eating. Procure from eight to ten pounds of the ribs of beef; those which have a good amount of fat upon them are the best; remove the bone, rub the meat well with one ounce of saltpetre pounded very finely, and three hours after this has been applied, rub on half a pound of moist sugar; let the meat lay in this for two days, then take one ounce of ground pepper, half an ounce of pounded mace, a few cloves well pounded, and a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Mix all these ingredients well, and rub them well into the beef, particularly into the holes, adding occasionally a little salt. Roll up the meat as a round, and bind it with a strong fillet. Chop some suet very finely, cover the beef with it, and bake it in a moderately heated oven, from five to six hours. While baking, it may be placed either upon a meat tin, or in an earthen jar as nearly of its size as possible. In both cases there should be a cup full of gravy or water under the meat, to prevent it from burning; if a jar is used there should be a cover to it.

FILLETS OF BEEF.

Take two pounds of steak from a round of beef, cut thin, divide it into strips about three inches broad; beat them with a chopper till flat and tender, then chop finely some fresh gathered mushrooms, and add a little pepper, salt, and fresh butter in small pieces. Lay the mushrooms and seasoning half over the strips of steak; roll them up, fasten them with a coarse needle and thread, (or with very tiny skewers,) and lay the fillets in a pie dish to bake. The baking dish should be covered with another dish of the same size, to prevent the steam from evaporating, otherwise the outside of the meat will be dry. Thicken the gravy which is in the baking dish with flour and butter, and add mushroom catsup as a seasoning.


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The fillets will require turning whilst baking. But a less troublesome plan of cooking a steak in this mode, is to have it dressed in one piece. The steak should be cut thin and rolled as described, but instead of mushrooms add a fine forcemeat or plain veal stuffing.

FILLETS OF BEEF WITH ANCHOVY.

Soak five or six anchovies in water for about two hours, split them and put the fillet with them, mixed with some bacon; boil it on a slow fire with a small quantity of broth, a glass of white wine, a clove of garlic, two cloves, and a bunch of herbs. When sufficiently done, strain the sauce, add to it a piece of butter rolled in flour, two spoonsful of cream, and a few capers; mix in a little yolk of egg, and pour it over the fillet.

FILLETS OF BEEF WITH FORCEMEAT.

Make forcemeat with fowls' livers, grated bacon, a little butter, parsley, shallots, three yolks of eggs, and spices. Cut a fillet of beef in two, flatten it with a cleaver, lard it through, then lay the forcemeat between it, and also about a pint of small mushrooms which have been previously stewed in a little butter; tie the meat up in a cloth, boil it in broth, with a glass of wine and a bunch of sweet herbs.

HUNTER'S BEEF.

Take a round of beef weighing fifteen pounds, and let it hang two or three days. Reduce to a very fine powder two ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of sugar, three quarters of an ounce of cloves, the same of nutmeg, one third of an ounce of allspice, two handsful of common salt. Bone the beef, and rub the spices well into it, and do so every day for two or three weeks. When you wish to dress the meat, wash the spices off the outside with cold water, bind it up tightly with tape, and place it in a pan with a tea-cupful of water at the bottom; cover the top of the meat with chopped suet; cover the pan with a coarse paste, and brown paper over that. Let it bake five hours, and when it is cold remove the paste and the tape. Some persons stuff the hole left by taking out the bone, with chopped parsley and sweet herbs.

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HUNG BEEF.

Make a strong brine of bay salt, saltpetre and pump water. Place in it a piece of ribs of beef, and let it lie for nine days. Then hang it in a chimney in the smoke of wood or sawdust. When it is nearly dry, wash the outside with bullock's blood, and when this is dry, boil it and serve it with vegetables.

HAMBURGH PICKLE FOR BEEF, HAMS AND TONGUE.

Take two gallons of water, three pounds of bay salt, or if that cannot be got, five pounds of common salt, two pounds of coarse sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and two ounces of black pepper bruised and tied in a fold of muslin; boil all together twenty minutes, removing the scum as it rises. Pour the pickle into a deep earthen jar, and when it is cold lay in the meat so that every part is covered. Turn the meat occasionally. A middling sized round of beef will be ready for the table in a fortnight.

MEAT PIE FOR LUNCH.

Place a thick rump steak well larded and rubbed with shallot in the bottom of a saucepan, cut up some game into small pieces without bones, and lay over the steak, mixed with pepper and salt and some pieces of bacon; stew them all well, and add chopped mushrooms and a rich gravy, before making them into the pie. The pie should have a thick ornamental crust round the sides and on the bottom. Let the top crust be loose, so that additional gravy can be poured in; and bake until it is a light brown.

BEEF BALLS.

Take a piece of beef boiled tender, chop it very finely with an onion, season with salt and pepper, add parsley, bread crumbs, lemon peel, and grated nutmeg; moisten it with an egg, mix well together, and roll it into balls. Then dip them in flour and fry them in boiling lard or fresh dripping. Serve them with thickened brown gravy, or fried bread crumbs.

BEEF CROQUETTES.

Mince some dressed beef very fine, melt a piece of butter in a


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stew pan, add three or four onions, chopped fine, and fried a pale brown; add a spoonful of flour, and moisten with a little good stock, or gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little parsley chopped fine. When the sauce is done enough, put in the minced beef; let it stew a short time till the sauce is dry, then form the meat into either balls or rolls; dip each into the beaten white of eggs; have some butter, or lard, hot; put each ball very gently into the frying pan, shaking a little flour over them, roll them about gently in the pan to brown them alike, and when a good color, drain them on a cloth, and serve on dressed parsley.

HASHED BEEF.

Take cold roast beef, cut in slices, and remove skin and gristle. Place in a stewpan a small piece of butter, an onion chopped fine, a table-spoonful of flour; put it on the fire and stir it till it browns, but be careful it does not burn. Then stir in gradually half a pint of stock, flavored with herbs, with a little salt, and let it boil up thick. Put in two table-spoonsful of hot green pickles chopped small, and the slices of beef. Heat them through and serve with sippets of toast.

COLD MINCED BEEF.

Having removed the fat and skin, mince the beef nearly to a paste: stew gently--if possible over night, so that the fat may be skimmed off. Season with pepper and salt, and sprinkle with oat-meal; chop a half handful of parsley and thyme and throw in; boil a large onion nearly tender, chop it and mix it in; add sufficient broth or skim-milk and water to cover the beef; let it simmer two hours; then thicken with a little oatmeal, and add a dessert spoonful of mushroom or walnut catsup; stir well, boil a minute and serve with pieces of bread toasted. The bones from which the meat is cut will do for the broth in which the meat is stewed, if broth is used. Even then, however, a tea-cupful of milk may be added with the thickening.

DRIED BEEF COOKED.

After being thinly sliced, as usual, freshen it in water; stew it in a little water until tender; then beat an egg with a little flour, put


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a lump of butter to the beef, stir in the egg and flour, and serve on toast bread with the gravy over it.

KEEPING BEEF.

Cut up the meat in pieces as large as you wish, and pack it in a barrel or cask. Then make a brine as follows: one pound and half of salt to one gallon of water, one ounce of saltpetre to one hundred pounds of beef, one table-spoonful of ground pepper to one hundred pounds of beef. Put in the salt and saltpetre, heat it boiling hot, skim it, then add the pepper. Pour it on the beef boiling hot and cover closely.

TOUGH BEEF.

Carbonate of soda will remedy tough beef. Cut the steaks the day before using into slices about two inches thick; rub over them a small quantity of soda; wash off next morning, cut it into suitable thickness, and cook. The same process will answer for fowls, legs of mutton, etc.

A LEG OF MUTTON IN FOUR MEALS.

For the first meal, cut off a handsome knuckle and boil it; for the second meal, take as many cutlets as required for the family from the joint; for the third meal, roast the remainder of the joint. The remains of both the boiled and roasted meat, may then be hashed for a fourth meal.

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.

Cut off the shank bone and trim the knuckle. Boil with salt in the water, skimming. If it weighs nine or ten pounds it will need to cook three hours. It may be served with parsley or celery and butter, or caper sauce, or pickled kidney beans and onion sauce; mashed turnips, spinach and potatoes are good with it.

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.

A leg of mutton weighing ten pounds should be roasted two hours. When half done, turn the fat out of the roaster; then baste the meat with the dripping. Make the gravy the same as for roast beef, or add a few spoonsful of current jelly and a cup of


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red wine. Ten minutes more should be allowed for every extra pound of mutton.

LEG OF MUTTON WITH OYSTERS.

Parboil fat oysters and mix with them some parsley, minced onions, and sweet herbs, boiled and chopped fine, and the yolks of two hard boiled eggs. Cut five or six holes in the fleshy part of a leg of mutton, and put in the mixture; dress it as follows: Tie it up in a cloth and let it boil gently two and a half or three hours, according to the size.

ROAST SHOULDER OF LAMB.

A nice way to cook a shoulder of lamb is to bone it, and fill the space with a stuffing made of chopped mushrooms, parsley, salt pork, cracker crumbs, some sweet herbs, pepper and salt, and a raw egg. Braise it with some good stock gravy, and send it to table surrounded by spinach, garnished with slices of egg.

ROAST QUARTER OF LAMB.

To roast a quarter of lamb, lard it slightly with salt pork, and sprinkle it with bread crumbs and finely-chopped parsley. Make a sauce of some stock gravy, a table-spoonful of vinegar, chopped mint, a little yolk of egg, and mushroom catsup; pour over the joint, and let it stand in the oven a few moments. Serve with green peas, with which a little bunch of mint has been boiled.

ROAST JOINT OF MUTTON.

Roast the joint of a leg of mutton in the usual way; rub on a little salt, and also sprinkle on flour as the fat comes out. Have it nicely and evenly browned on every side, baste it well, and when ready, to take out, pour off the dripping and have ready a little boiling water, but do not drown the real juices of the meat. Serve with currant jelly if convenient.

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS.

Trim them; remove what fat is not required to cook with them; season and broil over a clear fire, turning often until done. Serve with small pieces of butter on them.

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FRIED MUTTON CHOPS.

Trim them, season with pepper and salt, fry them in their own fat or pork fat, turn them often. Serve them hot. Brown a little butter and flour, add a little water, and pour the gravy over them.

MUTTON CHOPS WITH CUCUMBERS.

Slice cucumbers and lay them in a deep dish, sprinkled with salt and wet with vinegar. Fry the chops a nice brown, lay them in a stewpan, and put the cucumbers, drained, over them; add some chopped onions, pepper and salt, cover them with weak broth and stew them, skimming occasionally.

SAVORY MUTTON CHOPS.

Cut up the chops and beat them with the edge of a knife. Beat the yolks of a few eggs and dip the cutlets in them; season them with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and bread crumbs. Roll them in buttered papers and boil them. Use for sauce some good gravy, a piece of butter, crumbs of bread, capers, anchovies, with some nutmeg and a little vinegar. As soon as they are dressed, tear off the papers, and set them on the dish with the sauce.

COLD MUTTON BROILED.

Cut in thick slices cold boiled leg of mutton; it should not be cooked too much or it will fall into pieces; put on it salt and pepper, and then broil it. Let it be very hot, and add a thick sauce flavored with fresh tomatoes, or tomato sauce, and serve.

MUTTON PUDDING.

Take cold boiled mutton, or roast mutton if that is on hand, cut it into small slices, and slice a few potatoes. Dip the slices of meat into a mixture of salt, pepper, flour, and finely chopped onion; butter the basin, line it with suet crust, fill it with alternate layers of mutton and potatoes, pour in a tea-cupful of gravy, or stock, cover with crust and cook it.

FIRST RATE WESTERN STEW.

Part of a breast of mutton or lamb, cut in bits, as many potatoes,


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pepper and salt to taste; two onions, a bunch of parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew all together in barely sufficient water to cover them, for two hours, gently. Then put in a tea-cup of tomato catsup, and boil up again. Serve hot.

MUTTON CROQUETTES.

Cut the meat from a neck of mutton into pieces about as large as your finger, lard them through with ham bacon; let them simmer in some stock with sweet herbs; when done, take the pieces of meat out, reduce the gravy and strain it over them; cover each piece with good fowl seasoning, wrap it in a slice of bacon, wash them over with egg, strew them with bread crumbs, and bake them.

HASHED MUTTON.

At night cut cold boiled or roast mutton into slices, remove the solid fat, break the bones, and put it in a saucepan with a large onion sliced thin; pour in broth or stock to just cover over it, and let it simmer until at boiling heat, but do not let it boil. Pour it into an earthen dish and cover it for the night. In the morning, or sometime before dinner, skim off the fat, return it to the pot with seasoning and a little flour, and let it simmer, but not boil, a long time. As the meat gets dry, pour in milk. A quarter of an hour before serving, take away the bones and skin, add a dessert spoonful or more of walnut or mushroom catsup, thicken smoothly with flour, oat meal or Indian meal, wet with milk and liquor from the hash; boil a minute longer, add more seasoning if required, and serve with sippets of toasted bread.

UNCOOKED MUTTON MINCED.

Cut off two pounds from a leg of mutton, remove the fat, and chop it up finely, with a slice or two of bacon; season with pepper and salt, and put it into a saucepan with a tea-cupful of gravy, six ounces of butter. Chop three young lettuces; add a quart of young peas, an onion chopped small. Stir all together over a gentle fire until quite hot, then place the saucepan closely covered at the side of the fire, and let it stew gently for three hours. Serve in a hot dish, and place round it a wall of well-cooked rice.

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HASHED MUTTON WITH MUSHROOMS.

Take nice slices of mutton, without skin or fat, and sprinkle each piece with flour on both sides. Put six large mushrooms, after having been trimmed and cut in four pieces, into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, to stew; add a little gravy, some pepper and salt, and when sufficiently done, put in the meat; let it heat through, slowly, stirring it the while that it may not burn, but not let it boil, or the meat will be hard. As soon as the hash thickens and the flour is all heat through and changed color, the hash is done. Serve immediately with sippets of neatly cut, thin toast, or fried bread, round the dish.

MINCED MUTTON.

Prepare a sauce by taking finely chopped onions, parsley, and sweet herbs; fry in butter, and add a table-spoonful of flour mixed in water or stock, and as much stock as required. Mince cold boiled or roast mutton, taking only the good parts, place it in the sauce and warm it through without boiling. This should be served with poached eggs on the top.

MINCED MUTTON WITH CUCUMBERS.

To prepare minced mutton with cucumber, the mutton should be minced as before, then a large cucumber should be pared, the seeds taken out, and cut up in small, square pieces about the size of a nutmeg. Stew till tender in savory brown sauce, and put in the minced mutton and some thickening, if necessary. Mix the mutton and cucumber well together, let it heat through, and serve it piled high on a dish, with sippets of fried bread round it.

THE EPICURE'S HASH.

Cut in slices about one pound of cold mutton; then put two sliced onions into a stew pan with a small piece of butter, and fry brown; then add half a pint of good flavored broth, a dessert-spoonful of Harvey sauce, the same spoon three times full of taragon vinegar, two tea-spoonful of curry paste, a small lump of sugar, and a little pepper and salt to taste; let this sauce just boil up once and then simmer slowly by the fire for half an hour; stir


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it often, and thicken it with a table spoonful of flour, mixed smooth in a little cold water; or you can use corn starch, half the quantity will do. When the thickening has boiled thoroughly, and the sauce ready, put in the meat, let it heat through but not boil. Serve hot, with pieces of toast round the dish.

QUARTER OF LAMB AS A SAVORY DISH.

Procure a hind quarter of lamb, and cut off the shank from it. Raise the thick part of the flesh from the bone with a knife. Prepare some forcemeat, the same as for veal or any other white meat, and place it between the bone and flesh, and all underneath the kidney. Roast the lamb partially, then place it on a saucepan with a quart of mutton gravy; cover it up and let it stew gently. When it is sufficiently cooked, take it up and lay it upon a hot dish. Skim the fat from the gravy, and strain it; add a wine glass full of sherry or Maderia wine, a dessert spoonful of walnut catsup, two of browning, the juice of half a lemon, a little cayenne pepper, and half a pint of bearded oysters. Thicken with a little butter rolled in flour; pour the gravy hot over the lamb, and serve it up.

SHOULDER OF VEAL.

Put into an earthen pan a glass of water, two or three spoonsful of vinegar, three onions, sliced parsley, chives, two shallots, a bay leaf, a bit of thyme, two cloves, and about two ounces of butter; cover the pan close, and put a paste of coarse flour and water round the edges, to keep in the steam; let it bake three hours, strain the sauce and pour over the meat, after seasoning it with pepper and salt. Another way is to stuff it with bread crumbs, suet, or butter, parsley, a little thyme and lemon peel, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; then lard it, and roast until brown, serving it with rich brown gravy.

STEWED LOIN OF VEAL.

Take part of a loin of veal, the chump end will do; put it into a large, thick, well tinned iron saucepan, or into a stewpan, two ounces of butter, and shake it over a moderate fire, until it begins to brown; flour the veal well all over, lay it into the saucepan, and when it is of a light brown, pour in gradually veal broth,


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gravy, or boiling water, to nearly half its depth; add a little salt, one or two sliced carrots, a small onion or more, and a bunch of parsley; stew the veal very gently for an hour or more; then turn and let it stew another hour until it is perfectly done. Dish the joint; skim all the fat from the gravy, and strain it over the meat, or keep the joint hot while it is rapidly reduced to a richer consistency.

BREAST OF VEAL STUFFED.

Cut off the gristle, raise the meat off the bones, then lay a good forcemeat, made of pounded veal, some sausage meat, parsley, and a few shallots chopped very fine, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; then roll the veal tightly, and sew it with the twine; lay some slices of fat bacon in a stewpan, and put the veal roll on it; add some stock, pepper, salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs; let it stew three hours; then cut out the twine, strain the sauce after skimming it, thicken it with brown flour; let it boil up once, and pour it over the veal; garnish with slices of lemon, each cut in four. A fillet of veal, first stuffed with forcemeat, can be dressed in the same manner, but it must first be roasted, so as to brown it a good color; and forcemeat balls, highly seasoned, should be served round the veal.

BREAST OF VEAL STEWED.

Brown the veal first, by half roasting it; remove as many of the bones as possible, and then put it in a stewpan with some stock, a glass of wine, a piece of lemon peel, a bunch of sweet herbs, a ham bone, and a carrot; let it simmer slowly in the oven about half an hour before it is served; strain off the sauce and remove the herbs, etc., put it then back with the veal, first thickening it with some flour browned with butter; let it boil up to take off the raw taste of the flour; then add some pickled mushrooms with their juice, and serve.

ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.

Take out or ask the butcher to do so, the bone from the center, and fill the cavity with a stuffing of bread crumbs, nice salt pork, an onion, sweet herbs, and pepper and salt to taste, all chopped


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up together until thoroughly blended; with the remainder fill up all the interstices and fasten with skewers; cover down in a bake-pan with a teacupful of water, for an hour and a half, basting occasionally; then remove the cover and roast until it becomes a rich brown. This dish is a universal favorite.

LOIN OF VEAL.

This is best larded. Have every joint thoroughly cut, and between each one lay a slice of salt pork; roast a fine brown, and so that the upper sides of the pork will be crisp; baste often; season with pepper; the pork will make it sufficiently salt.

KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

The knuckle, which is left after cutting off the fillet, makes excellent soup, or is very good boiled with rice. It should cook slowly on the top of the range, so that the rice will not burn, and be dished up with the meat in the center, and small pieces of butter placed at intervals round it, in the rice.

KNUCKLE OF VEAL WITH RICE.

Boil a knuckle of veal, two turnips, one onion, six pepper-corns, a head of celery, and a tea-cupful of rice, together, very gently on the top of the stove for about three hours, skimming occasionally, and mixing in a little salt. When done, send it to the table with rice around the veal. The stock in which the veal has boiled, will help to make good soup.

VEAL CUTLETS.

Take six neck cutlets of veal, trim them neatly, and cut off the bone; lard the cutlets, put them into a frying-pan with a little butter, and let them brown; shake a little flour over them, and then moisten them with a little stock; add a bunch of fine herbs, some carrots cut in forms, or scalloped, some small onions, mushrooms, salt, two cloves; when the cutlets are done enough, dish them and put the vegetables in the middle; skim the sauce, strain it, and pour it over the cutlets. They must be well seasoned.

MINCED VEAL WITH MACARONI.

Mince up cold veal with a slice of ham, a little grated rind of


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lemon, a little salt, and a few spoonsful of broth or gravy. Simmer gently, taking care that it does not boil. Serve it upon small squares of buttered toast, and surround it with a border of macaroni, cooked without cheese.

VEAL FRITTERS.

Cut cold boiled veal into small pieces, dip each in butter, fry them a light brown color, drain them well from the fat, pile them high in a dish and pour round them a thick, brown sauce, strongly flavored with fresh tomatoes when in season--when not in season, use tomato sauce.

BLANQUETTE OF VEAL.

Cut cold roast veal in small pieces, put half a pint of white sauce, and a little mushroom catsup in a sauce-pan; when it boils, put in the meat and let it remain until it is well heated; break in an egg slightly beaten; when the sauce thickens put in a little juice of lemon, and send to table.

VEAL ROLLS.

Cut some slices of veal very thin and divide them into neat pieces. Lay on each some good forcemeat, seasoned high; roll each up tight, and tie them with coarse thread; put them on a bird spit; after dipping each in the yolks of eggs, well beaten, flour them over, and baste them with butter; half an hour will do them. Have a good gravy ready, with truffles and mushrooms chopped; and after dishing the rolls, pour the gravy round them.

MOCK BEEFSTEAK.

Take a leg of veal and corn it slightly, by sprinkling salt over it; let it lay a week, then cut from it steaks, which fry in the fat from a few thin slices of browned salt pork, or broil and serve with butter and pepper; no salt will be needed.

LOUIS' FAVORITE DISH.

Take two pounds of veal from the leg or the neck, and cut into nice pieces, which fry a light brown, with a slice of ham or salt pork, which may afterward be cut in pieces; have ready a sauce,


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made by mixing cold gravy or soup stock with a table-spoonful of flour, a little thyme, pepper, salt, and some button mushrooms; pour this over the veal and ham, and let the whole simmer together for half an hour. Of course, the veal and ham should be removed from the grease in which they were fried, and placed in a clean pan before the sauce is poured over them.

MINCED VEAL.

Take the part that is rare done, of either roasted or boiled veal, and chop it very fine. Take beef gravy sufficient for the veal to be cooked in, dissolve cavear, of the quantity of an acorn, to one pound of meat; put into the gravy the minced veal, and let it boil one minute. Pour it into a soup dish, upon sippets of toasted bread. Garnish the dish with slices of bacon broiled.

VEAL OMELETS.

Three pounds of finely chopped veal, three eggs, six cracker rolls, one table-spoonful of salt, one of thyme, one of sage, and half a table-spoonful of pepper, half a teacup of milk, mix well, form into a loaf, baste with milk and butter while baking. Bake two hours.

VEAL OLIVES.

Cut two thin steaks from a fillet of veal, beat them and rub them over with the yolk of an egg; then cut them in strips from four to five inches in length; lay over every strip a very thin piece of fat bacon, and strew them over with bread crumbs, a little lemon peel, and parsley, chopped small; season with cayenne pepper and salt. Roll them up separately, and fasten them with a little wooden skewer in each. Dip them into egg, bread crumbs and parsley, chopped small. Put some clarified beef dripping into a frying pan, let it boil up, then throw in the veal olives and fry them a light brown color. Take a pint of good gravy, add to it a dessert-spoonful of lemon pickle, and same of walnut catsup, and one of browning; cayenne pepper and salt to taste; thicken this with flour and butter. Place the veal olives on a hot dish, strain the gravy hot upon them, garnish with lemon pickle and forcemeat balls, and strew over them a few pickled mushrooms.

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VEAL CHEESE.

Take the hind quarter of veal, add three eggs, one pound of pork, half a loaf of bread; season with salt and pepper to taste; chop, and wet the whole with milk. Bake two hours, then turn it out and eat it cold.

A ROAST PIG.

About three or four weeks is the right age, to roast whole; cut off the toes, leaving the skin long to wrap around the ends of the legs, and put it in cold water. Make a stuffing, with about six powdered crackers, one table-spoonful of sage, two of summer-savory, one chopped onion, half a pint of cream, two eggs, with pepper, and salt. Mix these together, and stew about fifteen minutes. Take the pig from the water, fill it with the stuffing, and sew it up. Boil the liver, and heart, with five pepper-corns, chop fine for the gravy. Put the pig to roast, with a pint of water, and a table-spoonful of salt. When it begins to roast, flour it well and baste it with the drippings. Bake three hours.

ROAST PORK.

For roast pork, make a stuffing of crackers powdered fine, with half a pint of cream, two eggs, a small quantity of summer-savory, pepper, and salt; cook about ten minutes. Take the leg of pork, of seven or eight pounds in weight, and raise the skin off the knuckle, and put in the stuffing, then make deep cuts in the thick part of the leg, and fill them also. It must be floured over, and a pint of water put in the pan. While roasting, baste it often with the drippings. Cook about three hours and a half. Skim some of the fat from the gravy, add a little flour, and boil it well a few minutes. Serve with apple sauce, or any other that may be preferred.

SPARE RIB OF PORK.

Joint it down the middle; sprinkle it with fine sage, salt, and a little flour; put it in the oven and baste it well. Serve it with apple sauce, egg sauce, or white sauce.

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PORK CUTLETS.

To broil or fry these, cut them half an inch thick, trim them into neat form, take off part of the fat. To broil them, sprinkle a little pepper on them, and broil them over a clear and moderate fire a quarter of an hour, or a few minutes more; and just before taking them off, sprinkle over a little fine salt. For frying, flour them well and season with pepper, and salt, and sage. They may also be dipped into an egg, and then into bread crumbs mixed with minced sage; if for broiling, add a little clarified butter to the egg, or sprinkle it on the cutlets.

BOSTON PORK AND APPLE PIE.

Boil one pound of nice, sweet, salt pork, and when it is cold chop it up fine. Peel half a peck of greening apples, chop them up also, and mix with the pork. Sweeten with sugar, and spice with cinnamon and ground cloves, or allspice, and bake in deep soup plates, slowly and thoroughly, with a crust on both sides.

ENGLISH PORK OR RAISED PIE.

These constitute a favorite luncheon dish in England. Take a pound of nice lard, and heat it until melted, in a little water. Use this hot melted lard to mix the flour into a paste, with a little salt. Work the paste very smooth, divide it, and form each piece into a round ball, gradually working a hollow in the centre, and raising a wall, two, three, or four inches high all round, according to the size required. Have ready the pork, fat and lean, cut into small square pieces; fill each pie, season highly, fit a lid neatly to the top, egg over, and bake a light brown, in a steady but not a quick oven.

PORK AND POTATO PIE.

Take some pork bones from which the meat has been removed for sausages or other use. Put them into a deep dish and place amid them slices of apples and potatoes, with chopped onions, salt and pepper; add a little water; cover it with a crust and bake slowly.

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BACON OMELET.

Beat up some eggs (according to the quantity required,) then add salt, pepper, some finely cut parsely and green onions, and a slice or two of bacon cut into very fine mince meat; mix all well together, fry and scorch the top with a red hot poker.

BACON EGG-CAP.

Cut a quarter of a pound of bacon into thin slices and stew them slowly, turning them over and over. Take out the slices and put to the grease two spoonsful of any stock you happen to have, and break over it six or seven eggs. Now add your slices of bacon again, pepper and salt, cook over a slow fire, and scorch the top with a red hot poker.

PORK RELISH.

Fry some slices of salt pork till crisp, take them out, pour a little water to the fat and season it with pepper; sprinkle in a little flour, then cut up the pork into small pieces and put it into this thickened gravy.

TO CURE HAMS.--1

Weigh your hams, and make a brine of one ounce of salt to every pound of meat, and one ounce of saltpetre to every twenty pounds. Cover the bottom of the tub with salt; pack the hams close, and fill the chinks with stones. Let the brine cover them well. After they have lain three or four weeks, take them up, dry and smoke them. Then wrap them in papers and lay them in ashes in a cool, dry cellar. This keeps the flies from them, and prevents them from getting dry and hard. Hams cured in this way, keep the year round.

TO CURE HAMS.--2

For every one hundred lbs. of ham, take seven lbs. of salt, three ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of pearlash, one quart of molasses, five gallons of water. Re-pack the hams at the end of the first week, and put the same pickle on them again.

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BOILED HAM.

A ham, if dry, may be soaked over night; if moist, this may be omitted. Put it in warm water, and boil it for five or six hours. If it is salt, the water may be changed once, though it should not be put into cold water. Soft water is best; if the water is hard, a little soda may be added to it. If it is desired to give the flavor of ham to vegetables, they may be boiled in some of the liquor the ham was boiled in, but the vegetables should not be put in with the ham. When done take off the skin, which should be kept as whole as possible, (to put over the ham when cold, which will prevent its drying,) and grate toasted bread over it. Boiled ham is best eaten cold. When served, remove the skin, stick cloves at intervals with a ring of pepper around them, and garnish with parsley, or put fringed paper around the small end.

SUGARED HAM.

After boiling the ham three hours, remove the skin, sprinkle sugar over it and bake one hour. It will be delicious.

POTTED HAM.

Take the remains of a boiled ham, cut in small pieces, and pound it, little by little, in a mortar; softening it during the process, with a little melted butter. Add Cayenne pepper to taste, and put it in small bowls, glasses, or potting jars, pressing it down very smooth. Over the surface pour a little more melted butter; cover tight, and set away. It will keep for weeks. This is a nice supper dish.

BROILED HAM.

Cut the ham in thin slices, and broil quick, on a gridiron set over lively hot coals. If the ham is too salt, soak it in hot water before broiling, and dry it with a cloth before putting it on the fire. Fry some eggs in an equal quantity of lard and butter, put an egg on each slice of ham, and serve.

WESTPHALIA LOAVES.

Mix a quarter of a pound of grated ham, with one pound of


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mealy potatoes, well beaten until quite light, and add a little butter, cream, and two eggs; but do not get it too moist. Make into small balls, and fry with a little lard, a light brown. Serve with a brown thick gravy. Garnish with fried parsley.

HAM OR TONGUE TOAST.

Toast a thick slice of bread, and butter it on both sides. Take a small quantity of remains of ham, or tongue, and grate it, and put it in a stew-pan with two hard boiled eggs chopped fine, mixed with a little butter, salt, and cayenne; make it quite hot, then spread thickly upon the buttered toast. Serve while hot.

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> SECONDARY MEATS.

YALE BOAT PIE.

Lay three or four pounds of steak from the undercut of a round of beef, in a middling sized dish, having seasoned it with pepper and salt. Have a couple of chickens at hand, cut in pieces and seasoned; place them upon the steak, and over them one dozen and a half of fresh fat oysters, without the liquor. Add half a dozen fresh, hard boiled eggs, and after damping the bottom of the dish with half a pint of strong ale, cover the whole with fresh mushrooms, adding to these half a pound of glaze or plam neatsfoot-jelly; lay over the dish a substantial paste, and bake in a brisk oven. This pie is excellent for a picnic or water excursion.

IRISH STEW.--1

Take off the under bone from the best end of a neck of mutton, and cut it into chops; season them with pepper and salt, some mushroom powder, and beaten mace. Put the meat into a stew-pan, slice a large onion, and tie up a bunch of parsley and thyme, and add these and a pint of veal broth to the meat. Let this simmer until the chops are about three parts done, then add some onions, and whole potatoes peeled, and let all stew together until thoroughly cooked. Take out the parsley and thyme, and serve up in a deep dish.

IRISH STEW.--2

Take as much of mutton as is required; the scrag end is the best for the purpose. Cut the meat into small chops, pare all the fat off the piece, chop it fine, and set it aside for dumplings; let the meat stew till perfectly tender, strain the liquor, and set the meat aside. The following day remove the fat, put the liquor in a sauce pan, roll each piece of mutton in flour, add the meat to the


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liquor, and sufficient potatoes and onions to thicken it. Before serving, add a layer of potatoes, boiled in a separate sauce-pan, also dumplings, about the size of an egg. The dumplings will take about twenty minutes to boil. No seasoning is required except pepper and salt.

BAKED IRISH STEW.

Fill a dish with alternate layers of mutton or beef, sliced potatoes and onions; season with pepper and salt, pour in plenty of water for gravy, and cover the top closely with potatoes; cook in a moderate oven, and let the potatoes on top be browned before it is served; the onion can be omitted if desired.

BOILED TONGUE.

Saltpetered tongue requires five or six hours to boil. When done, lay it in cold water three minutes, peel off the skin, beginning at the tip of the tongue, as it comes off much easier.

SWEETBREAD.

Add to a pint of water, or veal stock, a little grated lemon peel, mace, and pepper and salt; in this put your sweetbreads,--two good sized ones; stew them an hour or more; then take them out, mix a teaspoonful of flour with a little milk, mushrooms, and catsup, and add to the liquor when it boils; put in the sweetbread for a moment. Serve with the sauce poured over them.

TO FRY SWEETBREAD.

Scald them first; fry them in butter, with a little sweet marjoram and parsley chopped fine, and served with a gravy, flavored with mushroom catsup.

MEAT OMNIUM.

Take all the pieces of cooked meat you have, no matter whether boiled or roast, butcher's meat, poultry or game, and mince very fine. Put the whole into a stew-pan, with a little parsley, a few green onions, and mushrooms, if you can get them, one or two eggs beaten up, and a little gravy or stock. Simmer for a quarter of an hour; then take a meat dish, pour upon it a layer of your


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stew, a layer of bread in slices, another layer of stew, and so on, and heat in an oven. When hot, pour it over the rest of the stew hot, and serve.

SAUSAGE MEAT.

Take one pound of fresh pork, two pounds of lean beef, and chop them very fine; mix this with three tea-spoonfuls of black pepper, the same quantity of salt, five of powdered sage, and five of summer-savory; make this into small cakes and place them upon a plate. When needed, fry them in the same manner as sausages.

GOOD SAUSAGES.

First chop separately, and then together, a pound and a quarter of veal, free from fat, skin, and sinew, and an equal weight of lean pork, and of the inside fat of the pig. Mix them well, and sprinkle on an ounce and a quarter of salt, half an ounce of pepper, one nutmeg grated, and a large tea-spoonful of pounded mace. Turn and chop all together until equally seasoned throughout; press the sausages into a clean pan, and keep them in a very cool place. When wanted, form them into cakes an inch thick or less flour and fry them about ten minutes, in a little butter.

RISSABLES.

Chop veal and ham together finely, add a few bread crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little parsley and lemon peel, or shallot; mix all together with the yolks of eggs well beaten; either roll them into shape like a flat sausage, or into the shape of pears, sticking a bit of horseradish in the ends, to resemble the stalks; egg each over, and grate bread crumbs; fry them brown and serve on crisp fried parsley.

GRANDMOTHER'S BREAKFAST BALLS.

A little cold beef, or mutton, or both; a slice of ham, or salt pork; a small quantity of bread crumbs, a little parsley, a little sage, or thyme, all chopped together, and mixed with an egg, a little melted butter, and seasoning. Take a table spoonful of the mixture, dredge it with the flour, and make into a ball, which fry a quick brown.

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This constitutes an elegant breakfast dish, and is a good way of getting rid of cold meat, particularly if hash is not liked.

TURKISH DALMA.

Chop the lean of any cold meat, with a quarter pound of beef wet, very fine; mix with quarter pound of scalded rice; season with salt, pepper, and add the yolks of two eggs. Take cabbage leaves, dip them in water, make the meat into shape of cucumbers, and fold the leaves round them, tying each with a thread; put them into a stewpan with gravy, an anchovy, and an onion: stew a long time gently. The thread is taken off when served, and the gravy browned with flour and a little butter.

TO COOK COLD MEATS.

Put the cold meat into a chopping bowl, cut them fine, season with salt, pepper, a little onion or else tomato catsup. Fill a tin bread pan two thirds full; cover it over with mashed potato which has been salted and has milk in it; lay bits of butter over the top, and set it into an oven for fifteen or twenty minutes.

SAVORY WINTER HASH.

Any kind of cold meat, a few cold potatoes, an onion, pepper and salt, a little dried parsley, sage, and summer savory. Chop all together. Put it in a sauce-pan, with a little gravy, or hot water, and a small piece of butter. Let it simmer gently for fifteen minutes. Turn out over thin slices of toast. It is palatable to persons who do not usually like hash.

TOAD IN THE HOLE.

Make a batter of six ounces of flour, one pint of milk, two or three eggs, a little lard, salt and pepper; put into it a pound of beef sausages, and bake for an hour. Instead of beef sausages, slices of any meat you have, or half a pound of pork sausages, or a few oysters with meat trimmings, may be used.

COW HEEL.

Boil in water a split cow heel (one already used for stock will do) four or five hours; then add a pint of milk, and boil for two


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hours more, adding an onion or two, and if you like, a little chopped parsley.

FRIED COW HEEL.

Cut a stewed cow heel into pieces about two inches long, and put the pieces into a frying pan with bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and a little minced parsley. You will require to have grease in the pan, and it should be boiling before you put your cow heel in. About a quarter of an hour will suffice for frying. It would be a great improvement if you were to beat up an egg and dip each piece into it, before you put it into the hot frying pan.

SHEEP'S TROTTERS.

Into a stewpan put a little suet with sliced onions and carrots, thyme, salt and pepper; let these simmer for about five minutes. Next add two spoonsful of flour and water, and keep stirring till it boils; when it boils, put in the trotters and simmer for three hours or more. Now mix in two eggs, beaten up in milk, but do not let your stewpan boil again. Pour into a deep dish, and garnish with toasted bread.

SWEET BREAD, LIVER AND HEART.

Parboil the sweet bread, and let them get cold. Cut them in pieces about an inch thick; put on salt, and pepper and sage; then dip them in the yolk of an egg and fine bread crumbs. Fry them a light brown. Another way is, to fry slices of salt pork until brown, take out the pork and fry the sweet bread in the fat. When done, make a gravy by stirring a little flour and water mixed smooth, into the fat; add spices, and wine, if you like. The liver and heart are cooked in the same manner, or broiled.

CALF'S HEAD CAKE.

Parboil half a calf's head, with a little sage; cut off the meat, put the bones back into the broth, and boil them until the broth is much reduced. Cut up the meat and put it into the jar with the tongue, mace, pepper, &c., add a few small slices of ham; put the jar into the oven covered, and let it stand some hours until the contents are thoroughly done; then mix it with the brains beaten up


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with an egg. Put pieces of hard boiled egg in a mold, pour the mixture from the jar into it, and let it get entirely cold, then turn it out.
This dish can be made also with sheep's head, carefully scalded and soaked.

CALF'S HEAD HASH.

Take a calf's head or half a one, as you desire; parboil it, cut off the best parts in slices, and set these aside for the hash. Put the rest, bones and all, with any other bones you may have, especially a ham bone, each into the liquor with a bunch of sweet herbs, a sliced carrot, a fried onion, half head of celery, mace, salt, and peppercorns, according to taste. Let these ingredients stew gently together, until the liquor is so strong that, when it is cold, it will form a jelly. Strain it through a hair sieve, and afterwards through a cloth, and when cold, remove all the fat which may rise to the top. Take of this jelly the quantity that may be required for gravy, put it into a sauce-pan, and add to it mushroom catsup, Worcester sauce, a little lemon peel, and Chili wine. Now put in the slices of meat, and let them warm gently, but do not let them boil. Before serving to table add, if you desire, a wine-glass of sherry, and a table-spoonful of brandy, and garnish with brain cakes and slices of lemon. Butter may be added to the gravy to make it thicker.

LAMB'S HEAD AND HINGE.

Soak the head well in cold water and boil it a quarter of an hour. Parboil the heart, liver, and if desired, the lights; mince them quite small, mix them with gravy, season them, pour them on sippets of toasted bread in a soup dish, broil the bread and lay it upon the mince. It can be garnished with sliced pickled cucumbers and slices of bacon.

BRAIN CAKES.

Wash the brains thoroughly, first in cold and afterwards in hot water; remove the skin and fibers, and then boil the brains in water with a little salt, for two or three minutes. Take them up and beat them in a basin with some very finely chopped parsley, sifted sage, salt, mace, cayenne pepper, the well-beaten yolk of


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an egg, and a gill of cream. Drop them in small cakes into the frying pan, and fry them in butter a light brown color. A little flour and grated lemon peel are sometimes added.

TRIPE.

The tripe, after being corned, should be soaked in salt and water five or six days, changing the water every day; then cut it in pieces, scrape it and rinse it. Boil it until quite tender, which will take half a day or more, and it will then be fit for broiling, frying or pickling. Drop it into a jar of spiced vinegar.

FRIED TRIPE.

After being boiled, let it be quite cold; cut it in pieces, roll them cornerwise, tie them with a thread, sprinkle a little salt and mace over them, roll them in eggs and crumbs, fry in fat a nice brown; serve with onion sauce, with a little lemon and tomato catsup boiled in.

STEWED TRIPE.

Choose the thickest and whitest tripe, cut the white part into thin slices, and put them into a stewpan with a little white gravy, a spoonful of vinegar, a little lemon juice, and a little grated lemon peel. Add the yolk of an egg well beaten, with a little cream and chopped parsley, and two or three chives. Shake them together over a slow fire until the gravy is as thick as cream, but do not let it boil. Serve it with sippets, and garnish, if desired, with sliced lemon.

BRAWN.

Take the lower half of a pig's face, the feet and ears, rub them well with salt, let them remain so a week or ten days. Salt beef tongue the same way, for the same time. Then let the face, ears, and feet boil half an hour in water enough to cover them; take them out and clean them thoroughly, then put them back with the tongue also, and boil for three hours, or until the meat will slip from the bones. Then take it off, remove the bone, cut the meat in small pieces, the tongue into thin slices; mix all together and season with plenty of pepper, a little ground allspice, &c. Then put


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it into a mold in layers of fat and lean, press it down with a spoon, add a little liquor from the saucepan, put a heavy weight on the top, and let it stand till next morning, when it is ready to turn out and send to table. It can be sent with a piece of white paper fastened round and served, if desired, with a little sauce of mustard vinegar, and brown sugar. The beef tongue makes it much nicer, though some omit it, merely chopping the pig's tongue with the face, ears and feet.

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> FISH.

TO BOIL FISH.

Clean and rinse the fish, wrap it in a cloth, and place it in the kettle with cold water, adding a little salt; boil slowly but constantly; let the water always cover the fish, remove the scum that rises, add a little vinegar when nearly done. The fish is done when the flesh can be separated from the back bone by running a thin sharp knife in; be careful not to let the fish be overdone. Drain it dry on a sieve, keeping it hot; lay it on the fish platter carefully, so as not to break it. Serve with sauces composed of drawn butter. If a fish kettle with strainer is used, the fish need not be wrapped in cloth.

Fresh cod, haddock, whiting and shad, are better for being salted the night before cooking them. The muddy smell that is sometimes noticed in fresh water fish, is obviated by soaking it, after cleaning, in strong salt and water; after which, dry it on a napkin, and dress it.

TO FRY FISH.

Cleanse them thoroughly, dry them well, dip them in flour, or first in the beaten yolks of eggs, and then in grated bread crumbs; fry in lard or beef drippings, or equal parts of lard and butter. Butter alone takes out the sweetness, and gives a bad color. Turn on both sides, and cook a rich yellow brown. Fried parsley, grated horse-radish, or slices of lemon are used as garnish. The fat fried from salt pork is good to fry fish in. Some fish can be dipped in Indian meal instead of flour, if preferred. Trout and perch should not be dipped in Indian meal.

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WHITE FISH BROILED. (Lake Superior style.)

This is one of the most delicious of lake fish. Cut it in two pieces down through the centre of the back, lay in a pan, and cover with cold water, into which you have put a table-spoonful of salt. Let it lay for two hours, this makes it firm. Then take it out, wrap it in a dry cloth, and let it remain until ready for cooking. Have a nice bed of coals, grease your gridiron well, put on a little salt, and some pepper. Broil for twenty minutes, or half an hour, according to size, turning it to brown on both sides. It will not break in pieces. Serve with white sauce.

WHITE FISH BOILED. (Lake Superior style.)

This is a very delicate, and highly esteemed dish. Place the fish whole, in a fish kettle; cover with cold water, add a table-spoonful or more of salt, and let it come to a boil. Ten minutes after it boils, will cook it. Take it out carefully, serve with egg sauce, which is white sauce, with a hard boiled egg chopped up in it.

BOILED SALMON.

Draw the fish into the form of the letter S, by running a thread through the tail, centre of the body and head; or if it is part of a fish, fold it in a clean cloth. When bent, cut two or three slanting gashes on each side, to prevent the skin breaking and disfiguring the fish. Plunge it in boiling water in which a handful of salt to four quarts of water has been mixed, and the scum arising from it skimmed off. Put in with the fish, a little horse radish. Boil until very well done, about quarter of an hour to every pound of fish; and serve with lobster, or white parsley sauce; garnish with sliced lemon. For vegetables, mashed potatoes, and cucumbers sliced in vinegar, can be served. A salmon should be chosen for its brightness of color, complete covering of scales, firmness of flesh, whitness of the belly, brightness of the eye, and redness of the scales. Artificial means, it is said, are sometimes adopted to give redness to the gills of salmon and other fish, to deceive inexperienced buyers.

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BROILED SALMON.

About an inch, is the proper thickness to cut the slices; dry them with a cloth, put salt on them, and lay them skin side down, on a gridiron over hot coals. Before laying on the fish, rub the bars with lard, to prevent them sticking. When broiled sufficiently on one side, turn the fish, by laying a plate upon it and turning the gridiron over; then slip the salmon from the plate on to the gridiron. This prevents its breaking.

SALMON AND SALAD.

The remains of boiled salmon, instead of being pickled, as is usually done; are very good sent to table cold, to be eaten with salad. Trim the fish neatly, ornament it with sprigs of parsley, and serve with a bowl of salad, made as follows: Boil a cauliflower till about two thirds done; let it get cold, break it in bunches, lay them in a dish, and put to it salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. This is an excellent dish in hot weather.

TO KIPPER SALMON.

Lay the fish on its side and cut it from tail to head, taking care not to injure the belly by inserting the knife too far; wash the fish well, take out the eyes, and put a pinch of salt in their place; then sprinkle a handful or two of brown sugar over the inside, and above the sugar the same quantity, or rather more, of common salt; lay the salmon on a flat board, the inside up; cover with a cloth and let it remain twenty-four hours (or if wished saltish, thirty-six) in a dry place, neither too hot nor too cold. If the weather is fine, an hour or two of exposure to the sun and air will accelerate the curing process. The kipper is in perfection after it has been dried twenty-four hours, but it will keep a considerable time. To cook it, cut it in slices, wrap each in a piece of paper and fry it; send it to the table in paper.

PICKLED SALMON.

Scald, clean, and split the salmon; then cut into pieces and lay them on the bottom of the kettle, with an equal quantity of water and vinegar, enough to cover them; put in salt, pepper, six blades


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of mace, twelve bay leaves. When the salmon has boiled enough, drain and lay it on a cloth, put more salmon into the kettle and boil; continue doing this till all is done. When all is cold, pack the fish, and cover with pickle; place something heavy upon the fish to keep it down, that it may be covered entirely with the pickle, which must be occasionally poured off and scalded. Cover it closely to keep it from the air.

BROILED SHAD.

Shad should be baked, fried or broiled. For broiling, remove the roes, clean and dry thoroughly, cut into straight halves, and lay with the roes on a well-heated and well-greased gridiron, over a moderate fire; put the cover on so that it will cook through while it is browning, and only turn once; when it is done remove it to a warm dish, spread over a piece of butter the size of a walnut, a little pepper and salt, and put it, for a moment, in the oven; garnish with sprigs of fresh parsley before serving.

FRIED SHAD.

Divide the two halves in pieces two or three inches wide, salt and pepper them and put them in a pan, in which the fat, to keep them from sticking, has already been made boiling hot; fry a rich brown on both sides, cooking the inside first, and serve hot. The roes may be fried in the same way.

BAKED SHAD.

Baked shad does not require to be cut down the back; only cleaned, the roes removed, and the inside filled with a stuffing made of bread crumbs, salt pork, an onion, sage, thyme, parsley, and pepper and salt; chop all together fine, fill and sew up the shad, and place in a pan with three or four slices of the pork over it, and the roes at the side; bake one hour, and you will have a dish fit for an editor.

SHAD MAITRE D'HOTEL.

Butter a pan and lay the shad in it, with an onion sliced, a bay leaf, five cloves, the juice of half a lemon, a spoonful of vinegar, and two of gravy; make four or five incisions on both sides of the


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shad, cutting down to the bone, cover with buttered paper, and put into a rather slow oven; let it bake twenty minutes, then take it out, remove the paper, baste thoroughly and put it back; let it remain in the oven altogether about three quarters of an hour, or an hour if the fish is a large one, basting frequently with the liquor in the pan; then take it out, fill the incisions with chopped parsley and butter, and put back, while making a sauce of a little butter, flour, broth, and lemon juice, into which pour all the liquid surrounding the shad; boil up once, dish the fish, and pour the sauce over it.

FRESH MACKEREL.

This is a Spring luxury. Purchased in the city they are already cleaned, and require only to be rolled in a clean cloth, put in cold water, and cooked for five minutes, after coming to a boil; serve with parsley sauce, made with a table-spoonful of flour, mixed smooth with cold milk, and a piece of butter the size of a small egg; garnish with green parsley, and eat with stewed gooseberries.

SOUSED MACKEREL.

Take fresh mackerel, well cleaned, and boil them for a few minutes, or until tender, in salt and water. Take of the water in which they were boiled, half as much as will cover them; add the same amount of good vinegar, some whole pepper, cloves, and a blade or two of mace. Pour over hot. In twelve hours it will be ready for use. Shad is very nice soused in the same way.

BOILED BASS, ROCK FISH, ETC.

These should be boiled plain, leaving on the head and tail. Let them boil steadily half an hour, serve with drawn butter mixed with finely chopped eggs, which have been boiled three quarters of an hour.

PICKED UP CODFISH AND POTATOES.

This is as old and esteemed a dish as pork and beans. Put your salted codfish in soak the night before; pick it off in shreds the next morning, and scald it in a saucepan, pouring off the water just before it comes to a boil; this will freshen it sufficiently.


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Put in then a little more water, a small piece of butter, and a few shakes of pepper, and let it cook till it is tender. When it is done, thicken it with a beaten egg, but don't allow it to boil; and mix it with double its bulk in potatoes, mashed finely with milk, and season with pepper and a little salt. Pile up as near like a haystack as possible, pour over the whole some good egg sauce, and garnish with parsley and egg rings.

BAKED COD, BLACK FISH, HADDOCK, ETC.

Spread little slices of bread with butter; pepper and salt them and lay them inside the fish. Then take a needle and thread and sew it up. Put a small skewer through the lip and tail, and fasten them together with a piece of twine. Lay it into a dish, in which it may be served; put two or three thin slices of salt pork upon it, sprinkle salt over it, and flour it well. Baste it several times with the liquor which cooks out of it. A fish weighing four pounds will cook in an hour.

BROILED WHITINGS.

Make a brine with salt and water, sprigs of parsley, shallots and onions, and let the whole boil together for half an hour; strain it and boil the whitings in it, adding a third part of milk. Drain them when done, and make the following sauce for them: A piece of butter, some flour, two whole green shallots, pepper, and salt. Thicken this with cream; take out the shallots, and pour the sauce over the whitings.

WATER SOUCHY, OR SOODJEE.

This mode of dressing fish may be used for soles, flounders, and also fresh water fish of almost any description. The fish should be thoroughly cleansed and put into a stew-pan, with sufficient cold water for broth, a very small quantity of white wine vinegar, and some salt. While boiling they must be carefully skimmed; and when thoroughly done, served in the liquor in which they were boiled; to which should be added some roots of parsley, cut, trimmed, and boiled. A few parsley leaves, boiled to a nice green, should be strewed over the fish, and bread and butter sent up to eat with the souchy.

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FRIED COD AND HADDOCK.

Cut the fish in pieces about the size as to help at table; wash and wipe them dry, roll them in Indian meal. Fry some pieces of salt pork; take out the pork, and put into the frying-pan some lard; when it is quite hot put in the fish and fry it a light brown; dish it with the fried pork, serve with drawn butter.

COD OR SALMON CUTLETS.

To one and a half pounds of cold boiled fish, put half a pound of cold potatoes, half a pound of butter; pepper, salt, and a little mace, and some anchovy sauce. Pound all these together in a mortar, thoroughly. When well beaten, make the mixture into the shape of small cutlets, dip them in egg and bread crumbs, and fry them until they are of a light brown color. They are excellent as a side dish or entree.

FISH ROES IN CASES.

Put the soft roes from half a dozen broiled mackerel or shad into paper cases, with shred parsley, a little rasped bread, butter, salt, and pepper. Bake them, and serve them up with lemon juice squeezed over them.

SMALL FISH FRICASSEED.

Fry the fish a nice brown color, and drain them. Take another small fish, remove all the meat from it, and chop it fine, mixing with it a little grated bread, some lemon peel, chopped parsley, pepper, salt, nutmeg, the yolks of an egg, and a little butter; make this up into small balls and fry them. Into some good gravy thickened with flour, put some red wine, and boil it up adding cayenne pepper, catsup, and lemon juice; place the fish and balls in it, simmer them a few moments, and serve, garnished with lemon.

TRENTON FALLS FRY.

Let some small fish soak in the juice of two lemons, with salt, pepper, and chopped sweet herbs. After taking them out, drain them, and stuff them with crumbs of bread, boiled in milk, and


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beat up with the yolks of two eggs; then sprinkle them with flour, and fry them of a good color. Serve them up on fried parsley. They should be very dry and crisp.

FISH AND MACARONI.

Rub the inside of a mold with fresh butter, and strew grated cheese at the bottom of it to the thickness of about an inch; then put in a layer of macaroni of about the same thickness. Upon this lay some fish of whatever kind preferred, boned, cut in pieces, and strewed with parsley, thyme, and shallots finely chopped; also some pounded spices and cayenne pepper, adding another layer of macaroni and cheese. Bake it for an hour in a moderate oven, carefully turn it out into a dish, and serve it up with a little good stock gravy round it.

FISH AND MACARONI.

Boil the macaroni in water until tender, drain it, and cut it into short pieces. Remove the bones and skin from any kind of white boiled fish, tear it into small pieces, and mix it with the macaroni. Then make a sauce of two ounces of butter, the yolks of one or two eggs, salt, pepper and a little lemon juice. Heat this in a sauce-pan, pouring in half a pint of good melted butter, stir it, and put in the fish and macaroni. When hot, pour it out in a dish, heaping it in the centre; sprinkle fine bread crumbs over it and bake the top a light brown color in the oven.

FRIED SMELTS.

Split them just far enough to clean them; lay them in salt and water, and let them remain an hour; then wash and wipe them, have ready two eggs beat up in a plate, and some cracker crumbs in another plate; put about two pounds of lard into the frying pan; set it on the fire until it is very hot; dip the smelts into the eggs, roll them in the crumbs, and put them into the boiling fat; fry them a light brown; serve them hot, with drawn butter.

FRESH HERRINGS.

These can be broiled or fried. After scaling and cleaning them nicely, split them quite open, wash the insides with care, dry them


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in a cloth, remove the head, tail and back bones, rub the insides with pepper, salt, and a little pounded mace; stick small bits of butter on them; skewer two of the fish together as flat as possible, the skin of both outside; flour and boil them in twenty to twenty-five minutes, or fry them about ten minutes, until brown; and serve with melted butter mixed with a tea-spoonful of mustard, some salt, and a little vinegar or lemon juice.

TO DRESS FISH A SECOND TIME.

Put four table spoonsful of bread crumbs to a small quantity of fish; add two eggs, two ounces of butter, a little essence of anchovy, and a little pepper, salt and cayenne. Mix these all well with the fish, which should previously be taken from the bones, and steam it until it is heated through. Any cold boiled fish may be dressed this way.

FISH PUDDING.

Take cold boiled fish, the part that is white, and mashed potatoes, an equal quantity; mix well together, breaking the fish very fine; add two ounces of melted butter, or cream instead of the butter; season with salt and pepper. Butter a pudding dish, put the mixture in, keeping the top rough, and put it in the oven till heated through, and the top nicely browned.

CHOWDER.

For a capital Spring chowder, put a layer of fresh fish, cod, or haddock; then a layer of split crackers, sliced onions, and raw potatoes sliced very thin; strew a little salt and pepper over this layer; then put in more pork and fish, crackers, onions, and potatoes, and so on, until the ingredients are exhausted; over this mixture pour a bowl of liquid, composed of two table-spoons of flour, mixed smooth with milk and water; add milk and water to the flour until there is sufficient to just cover the contents of the pot; cover down tight, and cook slowly two or three hours.

FISH CHOWDER.

Pare, and cut into slices, seven or eight potatoes, and put them in a basin of cold water; cut a fresh cod into slices, then fry a


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few slices of fat salt pork; lay the pork in the bottom of the stew kettle; place two or three slices of fish on it, then a layer of split crackers, then some potatoes, and so on, with alternate layers, until the kettle is full; put in a little pepper and salt. Put in a quart of water; mix one table-spoonful of flour, in half a pint of water, and pour in, after it begins to stew. Cover very tight, and stew three hours.

FISH CAKES.

Mix together a pound and a half of mashed potatoes, a pound of cold boiled fish, either salt or fresh; add a little milk and butter, one egg if desired; pepper, onions, and a little chopped thyme, and salt if the fish requires it; sprinkle on a little flour, and fry them a light brown in small, thick cakes.

STEWED SALT COD.

Soak and scald the fish until sufficiently freshened; pick it into shreds, and stew it with milk to moisten it, a little butter rolled in flour, and pepper to taste. Stew gently a few minutes, and serve hot.

CAPE COD CHOWDER.

Fry some slices of sweet, salt pork till they are crisp; pour off part of the fat; take out the rashers and set them aside, where they will keep hot. Put in a layer of potatoes first, with a little onion, then pepper, then a layer of butter crackers, then a layer of fish, then a little more fat, more potatoes, more onion, more pepper, more butter crackers, more fish, and so on until the kettle is two thirds full; then put on top whatever fat may be left; fill up with water, cover close, and let it cook an hour or an hour and a half, according to quantity. A little salt may be required. Serve with the rashers placed round the dish on toast and pickle.

CLAM CHOWDER.

This is made in the same way, only they require a great deal of pork, and be careful to get soft shell clams.

SALT CODFISH AND POTATOES.

Soak a thick piece of fish over night, pour out the water and


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cover it with fresh, lukewarm water, and let it stand a short time, then put it in lukewarm water over the fire and let it simmer, but not boil, for an hour and a half or two hours, until it is done; remove the skin; serve with drawn butter or egg sauce, with whole boiled potatoes to be mashed or cut by each person with the fish, on their own plate. Serve also, if convenient, cucumbers in vinegar, pickles or nasturtiums. The fish can be garnished with hard boiled eggs. The cold fish left, will make a fine hash, or may be prepared in fish cakes.

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> SHELL FISH, EELS, ETC.

OYSTERS ETIQUETTE.

Procure two dozen oysters. Have them opened, and throw them into a clean basin or soup plate. Take a small bunch of parsley, chopped quite small, a little raw lemon rind ditto, half a nutmeg grated, and the crumb of a stale French roll, also grated. Let the latter be well mixed together, adding one drachm of cayenne pepper. Have at hand the yolks of three fresh eggs, beaten up into a fluid; dip the oysters separately into the eggs, and roll them in the crumb of the loaf until they are all encased in a bread coating or covering. Put a quarter of a pound of good butter into the oven, with a brisk fire, until the former is fully melted, arranging your oysters on the tray of the oven at your convenience. Keep the oysters continually turned until they assume a perfectly brown, crusty appearance. When fully baked, serve them up with a plate of bread and butter, cut thin, and use salt at discretion. A stick of celery eaten with them, adds greatly to the relish which the fish impart when served in this way.

STEWED OYSTERS.

Boil up the oysters in their own liquor, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and pepper and salt to taste. Have ready a pint or more of rich boiled milk, the quantity according to the number of oysters. Pour it hot into the soup tureen, and as the oysters come to a boil, skim them, let them boil up once, and then pour them into the milk.

SCALLOPED OYSTERS.

Wash out of the liquor two quarts of oysters; pound very fine eight soft crackers, or grate a stale loaf of bread; butter a deep


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dish, sprinkle in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of oysters, a little mace, pepper, and bits of butter; another layer of crumbs, another of oysters, then seasoning as before, and so on until the dish is filled; cover the dish over with bread crumbs, seasoning as before; turn over it a cup of the oyster liquor. Set it in the oven for thirty or forty minutes to brown. This is an excellent way to prepare oysters for a family dinner.

FRIED OYSTERS.

Select fine, large oysters, dry them out of their own liquor. Have ready a plate of egg, and a plate of bread crumbs. Let them lay in the egg a few minutes, and then roll them in the bread crumbs, allowing them to remain in these also, for a minute or two; this will make them adhere, and not come off as a skin, when in the pan. Fry in half butter and half lard, in order to give them a rich brown. Make it very hot before putting the oysters in.

OYSTER PIES.

Take a deep dish, cover it with puff paste, lay an extra layer around the edge of the dish, put in the oven and bake nicely. When done, fill the pie with oysters; season with butter, salt, and pepper, sprinkle a little flour over them and cover with a thin crust of puff paste; bake quickly; when the top crust is done, the oysters should be. Serve immediately.

OYSTER PATTIES.

Beard the oysters, and, if large, halve them; put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some finely shred lemon rind, and a little white pepper, and milk, and a portion of the liquor from the fish; stir all well together, let it simmer for a few minutes, and put it in your patty pans, which should be already prepared with a puff paste in the usual way. Serve hot or cold.

OYSTER LOAVES.

Cut out a piece of the size of a quarter of a dollar from the top of half a dozen buns, scoop out most of the crumb, put a portion of the latter with a good bit of butter, and about two dozen fresh


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oysters into a frying pan and fry all together for five minutes, add a little cream or milk and seasoning. Then fill the loaves, allowing four oysters to each; replace the pieces of crust on the tops, butter the outsides, and place them for a short time in an oven to get crisp. Serve them hot or cold.

OYSTERS AND MACARONI.

Slowly stew some macaroni in good gravy till quite tender; then lay it in a pie dish, put in a good layer of fresh oysters, bearded; add pepper, salt, a little grated lemon rind, and a tea-spoonful of cream, or olive oil if preferred. Strew bread crumbs over, and just brown it in a tolerably brisk oven. Serve with plenty of lemon juice, or a sauce piquante.

OYSTERS FOR LUNCH.

Take a fine oyster, wrap it thinly with bacon, fastening it with a little skewer. Lay it on a piece of toast, and put into a Dutch oven or a hot stove oven, a very little time. Prepare as many in this way as desired.

PICKLED OYSTERS.--No 1.

Wash fifty large oysters in their own liquor; wipe them dry, strain the liquor off, add to it a dessert-spoonful of pepper, the same of mace, the same of salt, the same of whole cloves, and a pint of vinegar. Let the oysters come to a boil in the liquor, then drain them off with a skimmer; put them into a jar; boil the pickle up, skim it, and when it is cold, pour over the oysters. They will be ready for use in twenty-four hours.

PICKLED OYSTERS.--No. 2.

Put the oysters, say two hundred, with their juice, into a large saucepan on the fire; let them simmer, but not boil, until the edges curl, and they become solid, but not shriveled. Be careful about this. Strain off the juice, and wipe the oysters with a nice, clean cloth. Let the juice settle, then pour off about a quart, leaving the sediment undisturbed; to this clear juice add one pint white wine, or other vinegar, a little mace, two dozen cloves, and a handful of black peppers. Heat it over the fire, but don't let it


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boil; pour it while hot, over the oysters. Put them in a stone jar, and in two days they will be very nice for use.

STEWED MUSCLES.

Open the muscles in their own liquor. When ready for use drain off the liquor and wash them in clear water. Then add to the liquor, or as much of it as is needed, an equal amount of water and of white wine, a blade of mace and a little whole pepper; boil them, and after awhile drop in the muscles, letting them just boil up, and thicken them with a piece of butter and flour. They can be served with sippets of bread and the liquor.

FRIED EELS.

After the eels have been skinned and cleaned, split them open and cut them in short pieces. Then make a pickle of vinegar, lemon juice, sliced onion, salt and pepper; place the eels in it and let them lie two or three hours. Roll them in flour and fry in lard or clarified butter. Place them on the table dry, with fried parsley, using plain butter for sauce.

SPATCHED EELS.

Take two pounds of eels, scour their skins with sand and salt, wipe them dry with flannel, gut them, cut them into short pieces, saturate them with the beaten yolk of an egg, and then roll into a plate containing crumbs of the inside of stale bread, chopped parsley, a sprig of sweet marjoram, a sprig of bruised anchovy, half a nutmeg grated, and some cayenne pepper, and salt all mixed. When well rubbed in these, baste them before a clear bright fire, with plenty of butter, until they are covered with a brown crust. Serve them with plain or melted butter for sauce.

COLLARED EELS.

Select a large eel, gut it and bone it without skinning it, and rub the inside with salt, pepper, mace, allspice, powdered cloves, chopped sage. Parsley, thyme, savory and knotted marjoram also improve the taste. Roll it tight, tie it, and boil it well in salt water. Then add vinegar, and when cold keep it in pickle.

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STEWED EELS.

Wash the eels well, and cut into pieces two or three inches long. Place them in the pan with an onion, cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, some whole pepper in a muslin rag, and add enough water for sauce. Let them stew softly, and add the juice of half a lemon, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. When they are tender, take out the onion, cloves, herbs, mace, and pepper, put in sufficient salt to season, and serve it with the sauce.

BOILED EELS.

Boil them in a little water with some parsley until tender, season them properly, and serve them with the liquor and the parsley. Use chopped parsley and butter for sauce.

EEL PIE.

Cut up the eels in one or two inch lengths, line the dish with potato paste, such as used for meat pies; put in the eels, season with pepper, salt, parsley, and a little butter. Pour over a little stock, or a few spoonsful of gravy, a spoonful of mushroom catsup, and dredge with flour. Cover with potato paste, and bake an hour and a quarter. This is for family use; if company is expected, a richer paste may be used.

LOBSTERS.

To choose lobsters that are boiled, select those that are heaviest, and of a middling size; if they are fresh the tail will flap back with a springy motion, when raised up.

TO BOIL A FRESH LOBSTER.

Put it into a fish kettle of boiling water, into which a handful of salt has been thrown; boil it briskly for half an hour, then wipe off the skum, and rub over it a little sweet oil. When cold, break off the claws, and crack the shell, but do not disturb the meat; set the body upright in the dish, with the claws and tail around it.

MRS. MAJOR D.'S LOBSTER SALAD.

Boil the lobster about half an hour. When it is cold, take it


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from the shell, being careful to take out the vein in the back. To six lbs of lobster, take two heads of salad, one cup of melted butter; two table-spoons of mustard, mixed with a little vinegar. Salt and pepper to taste. Chop these together, and spread on a flat dish. Then beat six eggs, and mix with half a pint of vinegar. Put this on the stove to thicken, stirring constantly; when cold spread it over the lobster.

For another receipt, see "Salads."

CRABS AND CRAYFISH.

These are boiled in the same manner as lobsters.

LOBSTER SAUCE.

Mash the fresh eggs of a hen lobster; strain, and reserve; divide the flesh into small pieces, dust it with flour to prevent it adhering together, and put it into a white sauce, allowing it to simmer for a minute, before putting in the eggs; when these have been added, it will assume a brilliant red, and should be removed from the fire instantly, before it has time to darken. Such flavor as anchovy, or lemon, may be added at the table.

CRAB AND LOBSTER CUTLETS.

Take out the meat of either a large lobster, or crab, mince it, and add two ounces of butter browned with two spoonfuls of flour, and seasoned with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne; add again about half a pint of strong stock, stir the mixture over the fire until quite hot, lay it in separate table-spoonsful on a large dish. When they are cold, form them into the shape of cutlets, brush them over with the beaten yolk of an egg; dip them into grated bread crumbs, fry them of a light brown color in clarified beef dripping, and place them round a dish, with a little fried parsley in the centre.

LOBSTER BALLS.

Mince the meat with the coral, season, make it in balls mixed with bread crumbs and butter, dip them with the yolk of an egg and flour if desired, and fry them brown in hot lard; for lobsterpatties , place minced lobster in the shell in puff paste, and bake.

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LOBSTER CURRY.

Put the meat of a large lobster into a stew-pan with a blade of mace, a large cup of veal stock or gravy, and a table-spoonful of corn starch, mixed smooth with a little milk, or cream. Add salt, a small piece of butter, a dessert-spoonful of curry powder, and the juice of half a lemon; simmer for an hour, and serve.

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> MUSHROOMS.

> HOW TO KNOW MUSHROOMS.

To know the mushroom from the poisonous toadstool, observe the mushroom has no bad smell, that its top skin will readily peel off; there is a thick meat between the skin and the red gills or plates; the gills are of a pinkish or rosy hue, though turning brownish by age, but are never of the lurid brown of the toadstool; when sprinkled with salt and allowed to stand, the mushroom gives out juice, the toadstool becomes dry and leathery.

MUSHROOM FRICASSEE.

Put a quart of fresh mushrooms, cleaned, into a saucepan, with three spoonsful of water, three of milk, and a little salt, and set them on a quick fire. Let them boil up three times, after which take them off and mix in half a pint of milk, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a little grated nutmeg. Put them into the saucepan, shaking it well occasionally, and when the liquor is thick, stirring them carefully in the saucepan with a spoon, all the time, and seeing that they do not curdle.

MUSHROOM POWDER.

Wash half a peck of large mushrooms quite clean from grit, and cut off the stalks. Put them in a saucepan, without water, containing a quarter of an ounce of mace, two spoonsful of pounded pepper, two onions stuck with cloves, a handful of salt, some allspice and nutmeg, if liked, and a quarter of a pound of butter. Let this stew till the liquor is dried up, then place them on sieves until they are sufficiently dry to be beaten to a powder. Bottle this and closely cork it. To give a good flavor to soup or gravy,


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a tea-spoonful of the powder must be added a minute or two before it is taken from the fire.

MUSHROOM POWDER.--2

Wipe the mushrooms clean and pare the skin from the large ones. Put them on paper, and place them in a cool oven to dry. Lay them before the fire until crisp, then grind and sift them through a fine sieve, and keep the powder in small closely corked bottles.

MUSHROOM LOAVES.

Well wash some small button mushrooms, such as are generally used for pickling, and boil them for a few minutes in a very little water. Add to them a small quantity of cream, a piece of butter rolled in some flour, salt and pepper, then boil up all together again. Cut off a piece from the end of some rolls, scoop out the crumb; in its place put the prepared mushrooms, and replace the end of each roll.

MUSHROOM TOAST.

Remove the stems, and red inside, and skins, from a pint of freshly gathered mushrooms. Dissolve a little butter in a stew-pan, throw in the mushrooms, season with cayenne pepper, and toss them over the fire for about ten minutes; add a tea-spoonful of flour, and stir until all is slightly browned. Cut a crust about an inch thick from the under part of a loaf: scoop it out in the centre; butter it, and boil it over a brisk fire; then place it upon a hot dish before the fire. Pour in by degrees a tea-cupful of cream or new milk to the mushrooms; flavor with a few drops of catsup; stew gently for two minutes, and pour them into the crust. Serve hot.

STEWED MUSHROOMS.

Choose large button mushrooms, wipe them with a wet flannel, and put them into a stew-pan with a little water. Let them stew gently for a quarter of an hour; then put in a pinch of salt, work a little flour and butter to make it as thick as cream. Let it boil for five minutes, and before dishing it up, add two large table-spoonsful


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of cream mixed with the yolk of one egg. Shake the sauce-pan over the fire for a minute or so, to warm the contents, but do not allow them to boil, for fear they might curdle. Put some sippets around the inside of the dish, and serve hot. [For pickled mushrooms, see Pickles.]

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> FOWLS AND GAME.

ROAST TURKEY.

Have a stuffing prepared of bread crumbs, sausage meat, or sweet salt pork, chopped fine, thyme, summer savory, and one onion; with pepper, and salt in about equal proportions. If the liver and heart are not used with the gizzard, to make the gravy, they also may be chopped, and mixed with the stuffing. Fill the body, sew up the opening, truss it, and if you choose, place a ring of sausages round the neck of the turkey. Put in the pan with a cup of hot water; roast slowly at first, and baste frequently; if there is danger of scorching, cover the breast with white paper. It will require, if of good size, two and a half to three hours to roast; and should be served with a rich brown gravy, and with the sausages browned and lying on the breast. If sausages are not liked, thin slices of sweet salt pork should be laid over the breast, and round the neck.

BOILED FOWL.

Boil the liver, gizzard, heart and lower part of the legs, in a very little water, chop them fine, mix them with drawn butter and bread crumbs, and season with salt, summer savory, and a little pepper. Stuff the fowl with this; put it in sufficient water to cover it well, and stew it gently until tender; serve with drawn butter.

ROAST DUCKS.

Clean and truss them nicely, and fill their bodies with a stuffing made of half mashed potatoes, and half sage, and onions, well


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seasoned with pepper and salt. Baste them with slices of sweet fat pork in the pan, and baste frequently. Make a rich gravy, into which put a table-spoonsful of Worcestershire sauce. Serve with apple sauce.

For a change one of a pair of ducks may be stuffed with prunes.

ROAST FOWL.

The fowl being drawn, and prepared, fill the body with a dressing of bread and butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, and summer savory; sew up the opening, truss it, oil it with butter, roast it rather fast without scorching, the first half hour, heating all sides evenly; baste it all over every five minutes, and after that, roast rather slowly three quarters of an hour or more, until the fowl is done through. If not sufficiently browned, wet it over with a little yolk of egg, sprinkle it with flour, and let it stand a little longer, till browned evenly.

BOILED FOWL.

Divide the fowl at the back, lay the sides open, and skewer the wings as for roasting. Boil over a clear fire, seasoning with pepper, salt, and a little butter. Serve them immediately, on a hot dish.

MR. DEMOREST'S CHICKEN FRICASSEE.

Prepare a couple of nice plump chickens; joint them, dividing the wings, side, breast, and backbones, and let them lie in clear water half an hour; remove them then to a stew-pan, with half a pound of good, sweet salt pork cut up in pieces; barely cover with water, and simmer on the top of the stove or range for three hours; when sufficiently tender, take out the chicken, mix a tablespoonful of flour smoothly with cold milk, and add a little fine dried or chopped parsley, sage, and thyme, or summer savory, and stir gradually into the liquor; keep stirring till it boils; season with pepper and salt to taste; and then put back the chicken and let it boil up for a few moments in the gravy; garnish with the green tops of celery.

BOILED GOOSE.

Dress and singe it, put it into a deep dish, cover it with boiling


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milk and leave it all night. In the morning wash off the milk and put the goose into cold water on the fire; when boiling hot take it off, wash it in warm water, and dry it with a cloth. This process takes out the taste of oil. Fill the body with a dressing of bread crumbs seasoned with pepper, salt, and butter, two chopped onions, if relished, and a little sage, and close it. Put it into cold water and boil gently until tender, about an hour. Serve with giblet sauce, and with pickles, or acid jellies. For vegetables have beets, turnips and cauliflower.

ROAST GOOSE.

Make a dressing of two ounces of onion, an ounce of green sage chopped fine, a coffee cup of bread crumbs, a little pepper, and salt; do not quite fill the goose, but leave room to swell. The yolks of two eggs can be added to the dressing, if desired. Roast two hours or less, and serve with gravy and apple sauce.

DUCK, WITH GREEN PEAS.

Roast a duck until about half done. Place it into a stew-pan, with a pint of good gravy, and a very little sage; cover it close, and let the duck continue to simmer in the pan, for half an hour; then put in a pint of boiled green peas; the peas are put in the pan to thicken the gravy. Place the duck on a dish, and pour the gravy and peas over it.

NEW YORK MOCK DUCK.

Procure a good rump steak, fill it with duck stuffing, bread, a little sweet salt pork, sage, chopped onions, and pepper, and salt; roll it up, skewer the ends tight; tie a string round the middle, and simmer with a little stock, in a covered pan, for two hours; take it out, put in the oven, and bake for another hour without cover.

TURKEY STEWED WITH CELERY.

Choose a fine hen-turkey, and stuff it with some force meat as for veal, viz: four ounces of bread crumbs, the grated rind of half a lemon, a quarter of an ounce of savory herbs, minced fine, salt and pepper, two ounces of butter, and the yolk of an egg. All these ingredients to be well mixed together. Skewer the


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turkey as for boiling, and put it into a large sauce-pan filled with water, and let it boil until tender. Take up the turkey and put it into another sauce-pan, with sufficient of the water in which it has been boiled, to keep it hot. Wash well about four good sized heads of celery, put these into the sauce-pan with the rest of the water in which the turkey has been boiled, and stew them until tender. Take them out and put in the turkey, breast downward, and let it stew for a quarter of an hour; place it on a hot dish before the fire, thicken the sauce with butter and flour, and a breakfast-cup of cream; put it in the celery to warm, and pour the sauce and celery hot over the turkey.

STEWED CHICKEN.

Divide a chicken into pieces by the joints, and put into a stew-pan, with salt, pepper, some parsley, and thyme; pour in a quart of water, with a piece of butter; and when it has stewed an hour and a half, take the chicken out of the pan. If there is no gravy, put in another piece of butter, add some water, and flour, and let it boil a few minutes. When done, it should be not quite as thick as drawn butter.

COLD CHICKEN FRIED.

Place the cold chicken, divided into small joints, into a deep dish, and cover then with salt, pepper, a little melted butter, the juice of a lemon, and some chopped parsley and onion. Let the meat soak three or four hours in this, turning it once in a while. Then take them out, sprinkle flour over them, and fry them. When done, pile them high on a dish, and pour a good gravy sauce, seasoned and flavored with sweet herbs, round them.

VOL-AU-VENT OF CHICKEN.

Make a case of puff paste, and fill it, when baked, with minced chicken, prepared as follows. Take the meat of a cold chicken, and mince it small. Take half a pint of stock, thicken it with a little flour, flavor with salt, and nutmeg, and let it boil well; then add two or three mushrooms chopped small, a teacupful of milk, and the minced chicken. As soon as the mushrooms are cooked the mince is done. This may be served on a dish alone. Or put


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into vol-au-vent cases, and ornamented with a few button mushrooms, stewed in white sauce, on the top.

CHICKEN WITH CHEESE. (A French dish).

Braise a couple of chickens, and when nearly done, add to them some good stock, vegetables, white wine and butter, seasoning according to taste. When done, strain some of the liquor into a dish, and grate into it some parmesan cheese; place the chickens in this, pour over them the remainder of the gravy, grate more parmesan over them, and bake the whole.

CHICKEN PUFFS.

Mince up together the breast of a chicken, some lean ham, half an anchovy, a little parsley, some shallot and lemon peel, and season these with pepper, salt, cayenne, and beaten mace. Let this be on the fire for a few moments, in a little good white sauce. Cut some thinly rolled out puff paste into squares, putting on each some of the mince; turn the paste over, fry them in boiling lard, and serve them. These puffs are very good cold.

CHICKEN LOAF.

Bone a chicken carefully, and fill it with chopped sweetbread well seasoned; make it as nearly as possible into its original form, tie it up in bacon, and having wrapped a cloth round it, boil it in some white wine, good stock, and sweet herbs. When done, untie it, use the bacon as garnish, cut in narrow strips, and serve up with some rich sauce.

CHICKEN POT PIE.

Divide the chicken into pieces at the joints; boil until part done, or about twenty minutes, then take it out. Fry two or three slices of fat salt pork, and put in the bottom, then place the chicken on it with three pints of water, two ounces of butter, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and cover over the top with a light crust, made the same as for biscuit. Cook one hour.

MRS. MAJOR D.'S CHICKEN PIE, FLAVORED WITH OYSTERS.

Cut up a good sized chicken and stew until tender; meanwhile


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seasoning it. After lining the sides of your pan with paste, put in it a quart of oysters, seasoning them. Then throw in the chicken. Take the water in which the chicken was stewed, and thicken it with flour. Fill the pan with the thickened liquor, cover it all with paste; ornament with pastry, and bake till the crust is a nice brown, or about twenty minutes in a quick oven.

PLAIN CHICKEN PIE.

Take a chicken and cut it in pieces. Stew it in water enough to cover it. When tender, line a deep dish with pie crust, take the chicken out of the liquor, put it in the dish with three or four slices of pork, and two ounces of butter, the latter cut in small pieces; add some of the liquor, flavor with mushroom catsup, and thicken with flour. Cover it with pie crust, and bake it in a quick oven about an hour.

THANKSGIVING CHICKEN PIE.

Cut two chickens into small members as for fricassee; cover the bottom of the pie-dish with layers of veal and ham placed alternately; season with chopped mushrooms and parsley, pepper and salt, then add a little gravy; next place in the dish the pieces of chicken in neat order, and round these put slices of hard boiled egg in each cavity; repeat the seasoning and the sauce, lay a few thin slices of dressed ham neatly trimmed, on the top; cover the pie with puff-paste, ornament this with pieces of the same cut into the form of leaves; &c.; egg the pie over with a paste-brush, and bake it for one hour and a half.

AUNT ABBY'S CHICKEN PIE.

Joint two plump, tender chickens, stew them half an hour in barely enough water to cover them, take them from the liquor, and lay them in a deep dish, with some thin slices of very sweet, nice salt pork, and a few halves of small butter crackers. Season the liquor highly, and pour over the chicken. Have ready a nice top crust, and put a rim of it first round the edge of the dish, wet it slightly, so that the other edge will stick close, and ornament the top with pastry.

For family use, or to eat cold, for breakfast, or for lunch, put a


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layer of cooked potatoes in the bottom of the dish. The gravy will form a thick jelly round them. Omit the crackers.

PRAIRIE CHICKENS.

Skin the chickens, which makes them sweeter; cut them open on the back and through the breast. Fry them in butter, with salt and pepper to the taste. Cook them to a nice brown.

ROAST PRAIRIE CHICKENS.

When they are nicely prepared, fill them with a stuffing of bread crumbs, a slice of salt pork chopped fine; sage and onion and pepper and salt to season sufficiently. Roast slowly for the first half hour, briskly the last half hour. Serve with mushroom sauce.

STEWED PRAIRIE CHICKENS.

Prepare the chickens the same as for roasting. Put them in a stew-pan with some stock or water, and a cup of cold gravy, a little lemon, a clove or two, and some pepper and salt. Add after awhile a few spoonsful of tomato sauce. Stew slowly for a couple of hours, serve with a little tomato catsup added to the sauce, and a light thickening of butter and flour.

DEVILLED TURKEY'S LEGS.

Score the legs of a roasted turkey; sprinkle them with cayenne, black pepper and salt; boil them well, and pour over them the following sauce, quite hot: Three spoonsful of gravy, one of butter rubbed in a little flour, one of lemon juice, a glass of port wine, a spoonful of mustard, some vinegar, two or three chopped green chillis, a spoonful of mushroom catsup, and Harvey sauce.

ALICE CAREY'S MINCED CHICKEN.

Mince all that is left of cold roast, or boiled chickens. Warm it with half a cup of cold gravy and a table-spoonful of mushroom sauce. Pile it in the centre of a dish, and place round it alternately small and very thin slices of broiled ham, and poached eggs on toast.

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HASHED FOWL.

Take the meat from a cold fowl, and cut it in small pieces. Put half a pint of well-flavored stock into a stew-pan, add a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and thicken with some flour and butter; let it boil, then put in the pieces of fowl to warm; after stewing sufficiently, serve with some poached eggs laid on the hash, with a sprig of parsley in the centre, and garnish round the plate with pieces of fried bread.

BROILED PARTRIDGE.

Split the partridge, wipe it inside and out, but do not wash it; broil it delicately over a clear fire, sprinkling it with a little salt and cayenne; rub a bit of fresh butter over it the moment it is taken from the fire. Serve immediately with a sauce made of a slice of butter, browned with flour; a little water, cayenne, salt, and mushroom catsup poured over it. Another way is to dip it, after being dressed, flattened and seasoned, into clarified butter, and then into bread crumbs; broil gently twenty or thirty minutes, and serve with brown mushroom sauce.

PARTRIDGE SALAD.

Place the remains of roast partridge in a deep dish, with oil, tarragon vinegar, shallot minced, salt and pepper. At the time of serving, place the partridge in a dish, surround it with the hearts of lettuce cut in halves or in quarters according to the size; garnish the partridge with hard boiled eggs, cut in quarters, minced gherkins, pickled onions and capers, and stir it in thoroughly with the mixture remaining in the deep dish.

PARTRIDGE PIE.

Take two brace of partridges, pluck and draw them; carve three of them into six pieces each, viz., wings, legs, breast, neck and head, and back. One of the birds should be kept whole, trussed in the usual form. Let the pieces be seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little ground mace, and laid in a deep dish. Stuff the body of the bird left entire, and put it into the middle of the dish, breast upwards. Pour over the game half a pint of cold strong beef gravy


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well strained, in which two well roasted shallots and a few corns of allspice have been boiled; add the yolk of six hard boiled eggs, and half a gill of good catsup. Cover your dish with a light puff paste, and bake in a moderately heated oven.

PIGEON PIE.

Make a fine puff paste, lay a border of it around a large dish, and cover the bottom with a veal cutlet, or a tender rump steak free from fat and bone, and seasoned with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg or pounded mace; then prepare as many freshly killed young pigeons as the dish will contain in one layer; put into each a slice of butter seasoned with a little cayenne and mace; lay them into the dish breast downwards, and between and over them put the yolks of half dozen or more boiled eggs; stick plenty of butter on them, season the whole with salt and spice; pour in cold water or veal broth for the gravy, roll out the cover three quarters of an inch thick, secure it round the edge, ornament it and bake the pie an hour or more. The livers of the birds may be put in them, or they may be filled with small mushrooms.

CROQUETTES OF FOWL.

Mince very fine some meat from a cold fowl; put it in a pan with a little stock, a table-spoonful of cream, a little salt, and nutmeg, and make it of the right thickness with flour; let it boil well, then pour it out on a deep dish, and put it aside to get cold and set; then divide it into parts, form them into small balls, or egg shapes; roll each in fine bread crumbs, then egg over with the yolk of egg beaten; roll again in bread crumbs and fry, not too brown. Serve, ornamented with parsley.

GAME PATTIES.

Make as many patties of a small size as you require, of good light puff paste; egg them over, and bake them a nice light brown. Fill the centre with minced venison, or hare, or a mince of any kind of game; dish them on a nappy, and send them to table quite hot.

IMITATION CRAB.

Mince the white meat of a roast or boiled fowl very fine with


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the liver so as to make about six table-spoonsful in all. To this put two table-spoonsful of pounded cheese, two moderate sized onions, four or five green chillies (or if these cannot be procured, some cayenne peppers,) chopped very small. Mix these thoroughly together, and afterwards add one spoonful of anchovy, and one of Harvey sauce, a large spoonful of mustard, two of mushroom catsup, black pepper, and salt, and three spoonsful of sweet oil. Well mix the whole. This makes a nice relish to eat with bread and butter.

SMALL BIRDS.

Dress them nicely, split them down the back and open them out flat, cleaning them well. Broil them gently over a clear fire, season them with butter, salt and pepper; serve them on buttered toast with pickles.

ROAST GROUSE.

Dress and singe them. Fill the bodies with a stuffing of bread crumbs, seasoned only with pepper, salt and butter. Put some cold stock or gravy into the pan, and baste frequently; three quarters of an hour will cook them. Serve with gravy, enriched with Harvey, or some other good game sauce, with mashed potatoes and jelly.

FORCEMEAT FOR ROAST VEAL, TURKEY, ETC.

Mix thoroughly four ounces of the crumb of stale bread very finely grated; the grated rind, pared thin, of half a fresh lemon; quarter of an ounce of minced parsley and thyme, one part thyme, two parts parsley; pepper or cayenne sufficient to season. Add to these the unbeaten yolk of an egg, and two ounces of butter in small bits; work all smoothly together with the fingers. Other savory herbs than parsley or thyme may be used if preferred, and a little minced onion may be added, if desired. The proportions given here may be increased when more is required. The above will be sufficient for a middling sized turkey. Forcemeat for Ducks or Geese. Two parts of chopped onions, two parts of bread crumbs, two of butter, one of pounded sage, and a seasoning of pepper and salt.

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VENISON PASTRY.

Cut the venison into pieces; line a dish with pie crust, place a layer of beef suet cut up finely, in the bottom of the dish, then put in the venison. Season it with salt and pepper, lay on butter, cover it with crust and bake it.

VENISON PUFFS.

Shave some cold venison very thin, and cut into small pieces; to to this add a little currant jelly and some rich brown gravy well mixed. Roll out some light puff paste very thin, cut it in pieces and in each piece put some of the meat, and make them into puffs. Place them all ready to bake, and brush them over with white of egg. Put them in a quick oven and bake a nice brown color.

VENISON STEAK.

Broil rare, and prepare a gravy with butter, pepper, salt, a teaspoon of flour, and some mushroom catsup. Cut the steak up into small pieces, and when the gravy is hot put it in, and cover tight. Set it back from the fire, or in the oven ten minutes, and serve with toast, and jelly.

STEWED HARE OR RABBIT.

Wash and soak it thoroughly, wipe it quite dry, cut it into joints, flour and brown it slightly in four or five ounces of butter, with some bits of lean ham, then pour on by degrees a pint and a half of gravy, and stew the meat very gently an hour and a half, or two hours; add salt if needed. When it has stewed a half hour or more, put in half the rind of a lemon, cut thin, and ten minutes before serving stir in a large dessert-spoonful of rice flour, mixed smoothly with two table-spoonsful of mushroom catsup, quarter of a teaspoonful of mace and less of cayenne.

RABBIT IN SLICES.

Take a fresh rabbit, cut it in slices, and fry it brown with some slices of pickled pork and some onions chopped fine. When nice and brown, take it out of the frying pan and put it in a stewpan with water sufficient to cover it; pepper and salt to taste; thicken


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with some flour and butter; and add force-meat balls, but be sure not to put the fat out of the frying pan. Let the gravy be the thickness of a very rich cream.

ROAST RABBIT.

Dress the rabbit, parboil the liver with a slice of fat ham, or sweet salt pork, and chop it up fine with bread crumbs, thyme, a small onion, and pepper and salt. Fill the body, and sew it up. Rub it over with sweet oil, or a little butter, and put a little butter in the pan with the water to baste it. Baste frequently, roast an hour and a half, and serve with mashed potatoes, and black, or red currant jelly.

Hare is prepared, and roasted in precisely the same way.

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> MEAT SAUCES.

WHITE SAUCE.

Boil well over the fire half a pint of milk, quarter of a pint of stock of a light color, season with salt, and thicken with some flour and butter. Mix the flour with milk instead of water, for white sauce.

PREAD SAUCE.-1.

Boil thin slices of white bread without the crust, in milk, with some whole white pepper, and a sliced onion; rub all through a coarse colander, put it back into the stewpan with a small piece of butter, a cup of veal stock or gravy, salt and a little cream, if you have it; warm, and serve it.

BREAD SAUCE.--2.

Pour quite boiling, on half a pint of the finest bread crumbs, an equal measure of new milk; cover them closely with a plate, and let the sauce remain for twenty or thirty minutes; put it then into a saucepan with a small salt-spoonful of salt, half as much pounded mace, a little cayenne, and about an ounce of fresh butter; keep it stirred constantly over a clear fire, for a few minutes, then mix it with a cup of milk, give it a boil, and serve it immediately.

RICE SAUCE.

Soak a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk, with onion, pepper etc., as for bread sauce. When it is quite tender, remove the spice, rub it through a sieve into a stewpan, and boil it. If too thick, add a small quantity of cream or milk. This is good for game or chicken, as a change from bread sauce.

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WHITE SAUCE.

Knead a large table-spoonful of butter in a little flour, melt it in a tea-cupful of milk; beat the yolk of an egg with a tea-spoonful of milk or cream, stir it into the butter, and place it over the fire, stirring it constantly. Chopped parsley may be added.

EGG SAUCE.

Mince two or three hard-boiled eggs, and mix in white sauce.

CAPER SAUCE.

Add one or two spoonsful of capers to white sauce.

OYSTER SAUCE.

Boil up oysters in their own liquor, then beard them; mix some butter with flour, and put into the strained liquor; when it is hot, stir the oysters into it; add some melted butter, and a little cayenne pepper; let it boil up once; put in a little lemon juice and it is ready for serving.

BROWN ONION SAUCE.--1.

Brown some sliced onions, in a stew pan, in a little butter; add a little good gravy, and stew them till quite tender. With the round steak of beef, this sauce is much admired.

TOMATO SAUCE.--1.

Take about one hundred and fifty good tomatoes, cut them into thin slices, place them in a dish with a pound of salt strewn over them, let them remain in the salt two days. Boil a quart of distilled vinegar with half ounce of mace, half ounce of cloves, half ounce of ginger and mustard seed, and twenty-five ripe capsicums, or long pepper pods, for half an hour; then add the tomatoes, having first poured away all the water and juice extracted by the salt from them, and boil all together for half hour; rub them through a clean, fine sieve, and when cold, bottle and cork tightly. If the tomatoes are gathered in dry weather, and carefully done, this sauce will keep for two years.

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TOMATO SAUCE.--2.

Put tomatoes perfectly ripe, into an earthen jar, and set into an oven till they are quite soft; then separate the skins from the pulp, and mix this with capsicum vinegar and a few shalots finely chopped, which will be proportioned to the quantity of fruit. Add powdered ginger and salt to your taste. Some white wine vinegar and cayenne may be used instead of capsicum vinegar. Keep the mixture in small wide-mouthed bottles, well corked, and in a dry, cool place.

TOMATO SAUCE.--3.

Remove the skin and seeds from about a dozen tomatoes, slice them and put them in the stew pan with pepper and salt to taste, and three pounded crackers. Stew slowly one hour.

HORSERADISH SAUCE.--1.

Wash a good stick of horseradish, scrape off the outside, then grate to a powder. Then take one table-spoonful of the grated horseradish, one salt spoonful of mustard, a pinch of salt, four table-spoonsful of cream, and two table-spoonsful of vinegar, and mix them well together. Add the vinegar last, stirring rapidly as it is added.

HORSERADISH SAUCE.--2.

Stir together until well mixed one dessert spoon of sweet cream, the same quantity of powdered mustard, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and two table-spoonsful of scraped horseradish, with a little salt to taste. Serve the sauce separately in a sauce tureen. It will keep for two or three days or longer if olive oil is used instead of cream.

CRANBERRY SAUCE.

Wash, and pick over one quart of cranberries, put them to stew with a little water, and a pound of sugar, in a porcelain-lined sauce-pan. Let them stew slowly, and closely covered for an hour, or more. They can then be set away ready for use, or they can be put into a mould and turned out in form the next day.

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Another, and nicer way is to stew them soft, then strain off the skins, add pound of sugar to quart of fruit, and boil all up together again for fifteen minutes. This will make a fine jelly for game, if put into a mould.

MINT SAUCE.

Choose fresh and young mint, strip the leaves from the stems, wash and drain, chop them finely, and add two table-spoonsful of pounded sugar to three heaped table-spoonsful of mint. Mix thoroughly, and pour in gradually, six table-spoonsful of good vinegar. The proportions can be varied according to taste.

CELERY SAUCE.

Cut the celery into inch lengths, fry it in butter until it begins to be tender, add a spoonful of flour which may be allowed to brown a little, and half a pint of good broth or beef gravy, with a seasoning of pepper or cayenne.

ASPARAGUS SAUCE.

Wash and drain half inch lengths of asparagus tops, about a half pint of them, throw them into plenty of boiling salt and water, and boil quarter of an hour or less until tender, then turn them into a strainer to drain. When ready to serve put them into thickened veal gravy, mixed with the yolks of two eggs, with seasoning of salt and cayenne; or into melted butter into which a little lemon juice has been squeezed.

SAUCE OF TURKEY'S EGGS.

Turkey's eggs are superior to others for sauce. Boil three eggs gently in plenty of water twenty minutes. Break the shells by rolling them on the table; separate the whites from the yolks, divide all the yolks into quarter inch dice pieces, mince one and a half of the whites rather small, mix them lightly and stir them into a pint of white sauce, and serve hot. The eggs of common fowl may be prepared for sauce according to these directions, using four yolks and two whites, and boiling four or five minutes less. The eggs of guinea fowl also make a good sauce after ten minutes boiling.

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MILD MUSTARD.

For immediate use mustard may be mixed with milk to which a spoonful of very thin cream may be added.

FRENCH BATTER.

For frying vegetables and for apple, peach, or orange fritters, pour a gill of boiling water on a couple of ounces of bits of butter. When dissolved, add three gills of cold water to make it lukewarm; mix in smoothly twelve ounces of dry flour and a small pinch of salt if for fruit fritters, but more salt if for meat. If it is too thick, add more water. Just before using, add the whites of two eggs beaten to a solid froth.

BERKSHIRE SAUCE.

One full pint of nasturtium flowers must be placed in a stone jar, with five shallots bruised, two tea-spoonsful of salt, and the same quantity of cayenne pepper. Upon these, one quart of boiling vinegar should be poured, and the jar closely stopped down for a month or more. At the end of this time the liquid must be strained, and three ounces of soy added for each pint, after which the sauce may be bottled, and is fit for use. This is excellent for either hot or cold meat, and easily made when nasturtium flowers are plentiful.

A SAUCE FOR MADE DISHES.

One quart of vinegar, one ounce of cayenne pepper, six table-spoonsful of walnut catsup, two table-spoonsful of soy, two cloves of garlic, and the same quantity of shallots (both the garlic and shallots must be well bruised). Mix all the ingredients well together, bottle them, and keep the bottles closely corked. It will be fit or use in six weeks.

SAUCE FOR BOILED TURKEY OR CAPON.

When the turkey is plucked clean, singed and neatly trussed, stuff it inside with raw oysters, adding a lump of fresh butter and some stale bread crumbs. Place the turkey or capon in a clean cloth, fold it up carefully, put it in a saucepan of cold water, and


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let it boil over a moderately heated fire until it is done. Have a stick of white blanched celery at hand, and chop it up very small, place it in a quart of new milk in a saucepan and let it boil, gently, with a few black pepper corns, till the quantity is reduced to one pint; keep stirring the esculent up with the milk until it assumes the character of a consistent pulp. Thicken the whole with the yolk of a fresh egg, well beaten up, with half a tea-cup of fresh cream. Have upon the table a sauce boat of strong veal gravy.

SAUCE FOR ROASTED CHICKEN.

Cut up some carrots and parsnips into any shape preferred, and let them boil with some little onions in a small quantity of stock. Add mushroom catsup, a little ham cut into small pieces, and let all stew in butter, with sweet herbs, adding two cloves, some thyme and a bay leaf. When these are colored, put in some veal gravy. Let the whole boil slowly until sufficiently done. Skim it and add it with a little good veal broth to the carrots and parsnips. Roast two chickens (nicely stuffed) rolled in bacon and wrapped in pepper, and pour the mixture upon them.

SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH.

Pick and wash some fennel, parsley, mint, thyme and small green onions, using only a small quantity of each. Boil them until tender in a little veal stock; after which chop them up, add to them some fresh butter, the liquor they were boiled in, some grated nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Let it boil; thicken it with flour and send it up in a sauce boat.

FISH SAUCE TO KEEP A YEAR.

Chop up forty anchovies, bones and all, put to them ten shallots cut small, a handful of scraped horseradish, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quart of white wine, a pint of water, one lemonL cut in slices, half a pint of anchovy liquor, a pint of red wine, twelve cloves, and twelve peppercorns. Boil together until reduced to a quart; strain it, put it into a bottle and cork it closely. It must be kept in a cold, dry place. When required for use, one tea-spoonful


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should be heated and put to half a pound of butter and a little flour.

SAUCE FOR VENISON.

Two spoons of currant jelly, one stick of cinnamon, one blade of mace, grated white bread, ten table-spoons of water, let it stew with a little water, serve in the dish with venison steaks.

DRAWN BUTTER.

Rub two tea-spoonsful of flour into a quarter of a pound of butter, add five table-spoons of cold water; set it into boiling water and heat till it begins to simmer, then it is done. For fish, chopped boiled eggs and capers can be put in. For boiled fowl, oysters can be put in while it is melting, and cooked through while it is simmering.

BROWNING FOR SAUCES.

Put half a pound of brown sugar into an iron saucepan, melt it over a moderate fire for about twenty minutes, stirring it continually until quite black; but it must become so by degrees, or too sudden a heat will make it bitter; then add two quarts of water, and in ten minutes the sugar will be dissolved. Bottle for use.

SAUCE FOR ROAST BEAF.

One quart of grated horseradish, two tea-spoons black pepper, two of mustard, one of allspice, two of salt, and a pint of best vinegar. Mix well, and bottle immediately.

MUSHROOM CATSUP.--1.

Break up the mushrooms and add to them a little salt, a handful to a peck, let them lie over night, and in the morning strain them through a coarse cloth; add to the liquor an ounce each of cloves, black pepper, Jamaica pepper, and ginger; two or three anchovies, and a glass of port wine for each quart, or in that proportion. Boil it gently then until the liquor is reduced to one half; take it off, let it cool, and bottle it air tight.

MUSHROOM CATSUP.--2.

Put in an earthen vessel layers of mushrooms, and thin layers


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of salt, and allow them remain half a day, or until the salt has penetrated them somewhat. Then mash them, and keep them standing another whole day, frequently stirring them up from the bottom. To each gallon of mushrooms add an ounce of peppercorns, an ounce of