MSU Libraries >> DMC >> Digital Collections >> Feeding America >> Book Content

Title: The Market Assistant...
Author: De Voe, Thomas F. (Thomas Farrington)
Publisher: New York, Hurd and Houghton

---

View page [11]

> WHAT WE EAT.

THE first natural demand of man is food to nourish his wasting system, and for this purpose he has been bountifully provided for with an extensive choice, furnished by the various productions of both land and water. Man in his natural state, like the wild beasts of the forest, consumes food naturally and spontaneously obtained; but civilized man, luxuriously trained and educated, obtains his principal support from artificial food, or that which has been produced by his skill and labor; and thus we find that the wild and cultivated animals, as well as the natural and cultivated plants, is the proper and sole food for cultivated man.

"Man is a carnivorous production,

And must have meals at least once a day'

He cannot live, like woodcocks, upon suction,

But, like the shark and tiger, must have prey."

The various fruits, grain, roots, and herbs, with flesh, fish, and fowl, all contribute to the sustenance of man, or rather, to furnish the daily wants, and to supply the wear and tear of his body. The perfect conformation of man's organization is capable of converting into nourishment every peculiarity of food, and separating the nutritive portions of every variety from each production.

Authors agree that animal food is found to be strongly nourishing, and, when extensively used, it is too heating and stimulating, and, withal, overworks the digestive organs, which, after a time, exhausts and debilitates the body; while, on the other hand, a pure vegetable diet seems insufficient to secure to the human system all the strength and vigor of which it is capable, although thousands of individuals


View page [12]
live almost entirely on the latter, but it is found they are seldom so robust, so active, or so brave. Physiologists, therefore, are of opinion that a mixed diet of animal and vegetable food is best suited to the nature and constitution of man. In warm climates, however, meat is found less desirable than any other kind of food.

"All animals, with but few exceptions, are used as food by various nations of men, although that which is selected as a delicacy by one country is refused as unfit and loathsome by another. The Englishman refuses to dine on Snails with an Italian, on Frogs with a Frenchman, on Horseflesh with the Tartars, or on the Crocodile, Toad, or Locust with the African.

"A traveller, in the last century, remarked to certain Arabs that he wondered at their eating insects so disgusting as Locusts; to which they replied, with some show of reason, that it savored of affectation in a person who could swallow an Oyster to be startled by any thing in the way of eating."

"The Americans will not eat horses, asses, dogs, cats, rats, or mice, but they are all used as food, and some as great luxuries, in other countries."

In Africa the natives eat Ants stewed in Palm Oil, and the large Termites, or White Ants, are roasted in iron pots and eaten by handfuls, as sugar-plums; and as for Locusts, Dr. Phipson says they are far from dreading their invasions, but look upon a dense cloud of Locusts as we would look upon a miracle of Bread and Butter floating in the air. They smoke them, or salt them, or boil them, or stew them, or grind them down as Corn, and get fat on them.

"Lo! the poor Indian, who untutored feeds

On Locusts, Beetles, Frogs, and Centipedes!

His taste keen hunger never taught to sigh

For Beef, Veal, Mutton, Pork, or Pumpkin Pie;

But thinks, admitted to that equal feast,

All things are good for man as well as beast."

It is also found that Horseflesh is not an uncommon article


View page [13]
of food, either in Denmark, Sweden, Norway, and other places, where it is publicly exposed for sale in their public markets. It is upon record that about the year 1810, in the town of Christiana, Norway, four hundred horses had been killed for the consumption of that town for a period of a little over two years. We also find it asserted by M. Duchatelet that a very large quantity is consumed in Paris. The Knackers (Horse-slayers) and their families, who live principally on it, have a remarkably robust and healthy appearance. Surgeon Larrey also states that the French armies, during many campaigns under Napoleon I. were greatly indebted to Horseflesh for the means of subsistence. A correspondent from Vienna to the "New York Times," 1855, gives a favorable account of its use in that city, as follows: "The consumption of Horseflesh by the poorest classes, which for the past two years has been more and more resorted to, tends to check any rapid rise in Beef and the common meats. While good roasts and bake-pieces cost fifteen kreutzers the pound--not even so high as in New York--Horseflesh is bought for five kreutzers. An acquaintance who has eaten beef-steak from this meat--would it do to call it horse-steak?--assures me that it does not taste at all bad--that it is indeed a delicacy--and argues from the nature of the food of the two, that horseflesh is a much choicer diet than fried chicken. It may seem to show how well the poorer classes like it, to state that within the past few weeks, in Hamburg, if I remember rightly, the price of this article of food has risen to almost its former rate, owing to the increased demand."

Mule-meat has also been spoken of as being excellent eating; although its trial took place under peculiar circumstances, yet it was compared with horseflesh and such beef as was in the possession of the besieged rebels while caged in Port Hudson. A Confederate officer who has, or is, preparing a detailed account of what took place inside of this fortification during its beleaguerment, says that when (29th of June, 1863) "the last quarter-ration of beef had been


View page [14]
given out to the troops, on the 1st of July, at the request of many officers, a wounded mule was killed and cut up for experimental eating. All those who partook of it spoke highly of the dish: the flesh of mules being of a darker color than beef, of a finer grain, quite tender and juicy, and as having a flavor between that of beef and venison. There was an immediate demand for this kind of food, and the number of mules killed by the commissariat daily increased. Some horses were also slaughtered, and their flesh was found to be very good eating, but not equal to the mule. Rats, of which there were plenty about the deserted camps, were also caught by many officers and men, and were found to be quite a luxury--superior, in the opinion of those who ate them, to spring-chicken."

The ancients appear to have been rather singular in their choice of diet, as Dick, in his "Diet and Regime," says--"They used neither buckwheat, nor French Beans, nor Spinach, nor Sage, Tapioca, Saless, Arrowroot, nor Potato or its varieties, nor even the common, but a sort of marsh-grown Bean, nor many of our fruits, as the Orange, Tamarinds, nor American Maize. On the other hand, they ate substances which we now neglect: the Mallow, the herb Ox Tongue, the sweet Acorn, the Lupin. They used greatly Radish, Lettuce, Sorrel; they liked the flesh of wild Asses, of little Dogs, of the Dormouse, of the Fox, of the Bear. They ate the flesh of Parroquets, and other rare birds, and of Lizards. They were fond of a great many fish and shell-fish which we now hold in no esteem. They employed as seasoning Rue and Assafœtida."

An amusing article on diet, written above one hundred years ago, is found in a London paper called "St. James' Chronicle," dated November 6, 1762, and thus reads:--"There is no affectation more ridiculous than the antipathies which many whimsical people entertain with respect to diet. One will swoon at a Breast of Veal; another can't bear the sight of a Sucking-pig; and another owes as great a grudge to a Shoulder of Mutton as Petruchio, in the farce.


View page [15]
How often does it happen in company that we are debarred of a necessary ingredient in a salad because somebody, forsooth, cannot touch oil! And what a rout is made, whisking away the cheese off the table, without our being suffered to have a morsel of this grand digester, if any one should happen to declare his dislike to it!

"There are others of an equally fantastic disposition, who, as we may say, choose to quarrel with their bread and butter. These are eternally suspicious that their food is not sweet. They bring their plates up to their noses, or their noses down to their plates, at every thing that is put upon them. Their stomachs are so delicately nice that they descry a fault in all they eat. The fish is stale, the mutton is rank, or the suet in the pudding is musty. I have an aunt who almost starves herself on account of her squeamishness in this particular. At one time she is sure the sheep died of the rot; at another the pork is measly; and she would not touch a bit of beef all the time of the distemper among the horned cattle. Veal she detests, because, she says, it is well known the Butchers blow it up with their nasty breath; besides, the Calves have brine given them to make their flesh white. She used to declare House-Lamb to be the only wholesome food, because the innocent creatures were fed with nothing but their mother's milk; but she has lately taken disgust to this likewise, since she has been told that some rascally butchers keep large mastiff-bitches on purpose for their Lambs to suck.

"I dined with her yesterday, when she made an apology for the Beef not being salt enough, saying that she was under a necessity of boiling it too soon, as she did not think it safe to buy any meat yet awhile, on account of the late inundations; for she was apprehensive that the drowned carcasses of hogs, sheep, and other cattle would make their way up to the London shambles. I was surprised that a suspicion of this sort should have entered her head, but more surprised still to find it hinted at afterwards by the following advertisement in the 'Public Advertiser' of Monday:

View page [16]

"'The Master and Wardens of the Butchers' Company do hereby acquaint the public that they have not been able (notwithstanding the utmost care and assiduity has been used by them) to find that any of the hogs or sheep that were drowned in the late unhappy floods, have been exposed to sale within this city or the suburbs thereof.

"'


[Illustration: An illustration of a hand with the index finger pointing at the first line of text in the paragraph.]

Any person that sends notice to the Company, at their hall in Pudding Lane, of any casualty or unwholesome flesh of any sort that is exposed for sale, so that the same may be seized, will receive the thanks of the Company, and be a friend to the public in general, the Company being determined to prosecute all persons selling casualty or unwholesome flesh.'

"'I cannot help observing that it seems odd the butchers themselves should sound the alarm about casualty flesh, which many people otherwise might never have thought of. The fishmongers would never cry stinking fish, and the bakers would be unwilling to have it even supposed that any made use of alum in their bread. I remember, for a great while after the affair of Elizabeth Tofts, the Rabbit-woman, the owners and renters of warrens were all ruined, for persons would as soon eat a cat as a rabbit. Should the like disgust prevail against flesh, from the fear of its being casualty flesh, what would become of Smithfield and Leadenhall Markets? There is, indeed, some danger that people will conceive an antipathy against barrelled beef, pickled pork, and all kinds of soused meat, on this occasion; and it is to be hoped that the contractors for victualling His Majesty's Navy will not buy up any of the drowned cattle, to turn the stomachs of our sailors. The unwholesomeness, however, of casualty flesh I have heard denied by a gentleman, who had been in Italy, and declared that he himself had eaten heartily (without any ill effects) of a hog that was casually barbecued, and an ox that was roasted whole in the eruptions from Mount Vesuvius."

The mode of living adopted by some, especially among the rich, who, by their late dinner-hours and sumptuous


View page [17]
feasts, no doubt prepare themselves for early graves. As an old author says, "Some stop their breath with venison and carpe; some poison themselves with soups and ragouts; and others stifle nature with cheese-cakes and tarts. N.B.--Divers worthy citizens make custard their executioner. And who would think it? even beef and puddings, as public-spirited victuals and good protestants as they may seem, are frequently guilty of man-slaughter; and many a country squire, when he escapes drowning in a sea of October, dams up the springs of life with a rump of beef.

"Harmless mutton itself does frequent mischief this way. So that the butchers, as well as the 'pothecaries, are the licensed poisoners of a commonwealth. It may, indeed, seem strange that the sacrifices of oxen should be sacrifices of men too, and that ignorant butchers should interfere with the learned of Warwick-lane, and yet the faculty bear with it; for though butchers are tolerably illiterate and clumsy, yet, as their profession is the killing of brute beasts only, I do not see why the college should permit such unqualified Brethren. Alas! a butcher has but one instrument of death, and that is his knife: and what is that in comparison?" Dr. Carlyon also tells us that "Mixtures, and spices, and wines are the ruin of half the stomachs in the world. Just see: You take, at a dinner-party, soup, a glass or two of wine-punch perhaps; turbot and rich lobster sauce, with, it may be, an oyster paté, or a sweet-bread, to amuse yourself with while the host is cutting you a slice of the southdown haunch; this, with jelly and French beans, is set in ferment with a couple of glasses of hock or sauterne added; when a wing of a partridge or the back of a leveret, solaced with a little red hermitage, succeeds; then you at once sit at ease, and chill your heated stomach with a piece of iced pudding, which you preposterously proceed to warm again with a glass of noyeau or some other liquor: if you are not disposed to roguet with a spoonful of jelly in addition, you are sure to try a bit of stilton and a piquant salad, and a glass of port therewith. At dessert, port, sherry, and claret fill


View page [18]
up the picture. This is about the routine of the majority of dinner-parties. Such a dinner is, in fact, a hospitable attempt on your life."

The Jews, we find, will not eat the flesh of any animal (or fowl) used by them without it has been killed and examined by one of their own persuasion, called a shoket (Jew butcher), who is appointed by their synagogue, or some Jewish ecclesiastical authority, as they retain the opinions held by them from "olden times," concerning the killing of meat for the table. They also will not eat guinea fowls, Muscovy or other ducks, having fleshy crests, besides bears, rabbits, squirrels, etc.; but such game as deer, partridges, quail, etc., when trapped, or otherwise caught alive, and killed by a shoket, their flesh is then accepted.

Their particular manner of slaughtering a bullock is, by having its hind legs slung, and hoisted high enough to throw it off its fore-feet. The shoket, or "cutter," as he is generally known among butchers, stands ready with his long, polished, keen knife, waiting to have the animal's neck turned upwards, which is done by those who dress the animal. He, with one hand, the left, pinches up the skin on the throat, and, with the knife in the other hand, lays its edge, near to the point, on the throat. He then, with a strong, quick thrust forward, and a sudden draw back, without lifting the knife, divides the flesh and the jugular veins. This is, no doubt, the best mode of more fully clearing the body of its blood: the Jews believing that the blood is the life, from the Mosaic law, which forbids the destruction of the life.

After the process of skinning has commenced, the shoket opens the abdomen, and with his hand examines, by feeling, the lungs, liver, etc.; and, if found in a sound and healthy condition, he places seals, stamped with Hebrew characters, only on the fore-quarters, which particularly shows the day of the month when slaughtered; and the flesh or meat is then termed cosher, or good Jew or Hebrew meat, and fit for their use. Twenty years ago, these seals,


View page [19]
which were then used, were made of lead, but, since that period, they have used thick paper and wax.

If, however, the animal is found defective, either with lungs grown fast to the side, liver diseased, or any other abnormal or unhealthy indications of disease (which is seldom the case with a thriving fat young animal), the shoket pronounces it trifa, or unfit to be used by them; then it is not sealed, but resold to those whose religious scruples may be no bar to its use.

The gut-fat of the cosher animal is also sealed, and used in the place of suet (which is never used by the strict Jews) for all cooking purposes.

The hind-quarters of the animals thus slaughtered are not sealed, and therefore not eaten in this country by the strict Jews, although their laws allow of their being eaten when operated upon by the professional porcher; but as there are none known or recognized by them in the United States, this choice part is left without seals. The operation of the porcher is in the difficult performance of extracting the blood, fat, veins, and sinews, numbering above fifty, recognized by them in the hind-quarters; and I am told they count one hundred and eleven in the whole body, but those from the fore-quarter are more easily removed.

They point to the cause of their refusal to eat the flesh from the hind-quarters (and, in fact, to all their different laws, customs, and belief), to the Old Testament, more particularly, on this point, to Genesis xxxii. 32: "Therefore the children of Israel eat not of the sinew which shrank, which is upon the hollow of the thigh, unto this day, because he touched the hollow of Jacob's thigh in the sinew that shrank."

This shoket is paid by the society in which he worships, an annual salary, and, in addition, a perquisite from the owners of the animals which he slaughters.

The edible productions of the present day, considered fit for human food, are very numerous, some of which are the greatest delicacies, while others of them the simplest food,


View page [20]
with prices to correspond with their scarcity, rarity, or plentifulness. Many, of course, are unseasonable and unnatural to this climate; but by artificial means, and the swift steam-engine, they have become and are looked for as "things in season." In fact, the public market-place in the various cities under consideration, furnishes us with a "Bill of Fare" which includes almost every article known; among which we have from the North, the moose and bear meat, salmon, mascalonge, white-fish, pike, and drawn poultry; the sea-shore--East--furnishes us with shore-birds, fowl, sea-fish, oysters, and lobsters; from the South comes the early and fine Bermuda potatoes, onions, peas, oranges, bananas, and early shad, with the excellent wild duck from the Potomac; while the West pours in her wild-fowl, venison, poultry, butter, all of which comes by the millions of pounds weight, through the course of the year.

In order to arrange these various productions, and other subjects treated of, I have placed them under the following different heads, viz.: Going to Market; Domestic or Tame Animals; Beef; Veal; Mutton; Lamb; Pigs, Hogs, and Pork; Goats' Flesh; The Parts we use from Domestic Animals; Wild Animals, called Game; Poultry; Wild-Fowl and Birds called Game; Fish; Fish, Large and Abundant; Fish, Small and Abundant; Fish, Large and Scarce; Fish, Small and Scarce; Shell-Fish; Vegetables; Pot Herbs, Medicinal, and other Plants; Fruit; Nuts; Dairy and Household Products; Pot Plants, Roots, and Bouquets; Economy in the use of Meats; Hung Meats; Bleeding Animals; and Cooks and Cookery.

The first in the above arrangement appears somewhat important, as well as necessary, to assist the young housekeeper in purchasing the market supplies wanted, and perhaps a few hints on the subject will be acceptable to her or any others interested. They will appear under the head--

View page [21]

> GOING TO MARKET.

Some fifty years ago it was the common custom for the thrifty "old New Yorker," when going to market, to start with the break of day, and carry along with him the large "market-basket," then considered a very necessary appendage for this occasion. His early visit gave him the desired opportunity to select the cuts of meat wanted from the best animals; to meet the farmer's choice productions, either poultry, vegetables, or fruit, and catch the lively, jumping fish, which, ten minutes before, were swimming in the fish-cars.

Soon after followed the "good housewife," who would not trust anybody but herself to select a fine young turkey, or a pair of chickens or ducks, which she kept hold of until the bargain allowed her to place the coveted articles in her capacious basket, that was being carried by a stout servant, who also carried a bright tin, covered kettle, ready to receive several nice rolls of butter, so cleanly and neatly covered with white linen cloths.

The modern "marketer" will still occasionally observe some "relics of the past," who cling to the old custom taught them in their youth, perhaps, by an honored sire, who was not too proud to carry home a well-filled market-basket, containing his morning purchase, which his purse or taste prompted him to select. These old-fashioned ideas, alas! are all lived down, and we reluctantly turn from them, as we would from an interesting but worn-out book to peruse the pages of modern composition.

We now find many heads of families who never visit the public markets, who are either supplied through the butcher or other dealers in our markets, or by their stewards or other servants, or by some that may be termed go-between-speculators, who take orders for marketing, groceries, etc., on their own hook; and, of course, they purchase the various articles of those who will give them the largest percentages. I am sorry, however, to be compelled to state that there are


View page [22]
but few of this species of help, or market assistants, who can lay claim to the title of trustworthy.

It is, therefore, as necessary for our health as it is to our interest to obtain the knowledge of what we desire to purchase, that the articles shall be what they are represented to be, and that they are furnished at the regular market price.

To market well, then, requires much experience, although many rules might be introduced, but they would be seldom successfully followed. Practice gives the looks, smell, feeling, and many signs that are almost indescribable, and which are formed from close observation.

Many dealers know too well how to disguise an inferior article, so as to deceive those who have but little knowledge of marketing; although a lower price may be demanded, such provisions are dear from the fact of their inferior quality, and when prepared are neither relished nor half consumed--perchance they are wholly wasted.

Another class of dealers, while they furnish good articles, they do not fail to obtain exorbitant prices, of such a character as to come under the name of extortion. To succeed in such extortions, different modes of misrepresentation are adopted, which, in our plain vernacular, might be termed absolute lying--"business lying," white or black lying, or any other lying the reader may choose to designate the system.

Their articles are represented as being--"The very best that were ever produced!"--"The finest and largest you ever saw!"--"Could not be better!"--"First-rate!"--"Excellent!"--"Beautiful!"--"Splendid!"--"Can't be beat!"--"As cheap as dirt!" and "Can't be got elsewhere!"

One day I heard a military hero say to a person who was extolling a good common goose, and enlarging on the numerous splendid accessories surrounding it--"Why, your geese are all swans--I do not want any of them. I merely want a good young goose, about that size."

View page [23]

The numerous falsehoods sometimes told, are expressed with such appearance of innocence, that many really feel that what they say must be "the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth," and so accede to their extortionate demands. This class of dealers effect more business and succeed better than the honest, conscientious dealer, who, when asked, "Is this article the best I can get?" will answer, "I should not like to say it is, but I think it is as good." Such an answer is not always a satisfactory one to the questioner, as he would require one of certainty, or--"It is the very best that comes to the markets, and you cannot get it elsewhere so good, nor so cheap." This appears to be a great fault with many purchasers, that to induce them to buy the dealers must bespatter their articles with a dozen falsehoods, and sometimes fifteen or twenty per cent. above the market price, before the purchasers are fully satisfied with their bargains.

This wretched system or custom, we find, generally pervades everywhere, and in every business, where goods and other property are exposed to sale; both men and women, merchants and mechanics, tradesmen and salesmen, in fact all kinds, are afflicted with this prevailing tongue-disease of exaggeration.

This dishonest custom gives the honest salesman or purveyor but little satisfaction while doing business, as they are often subjected to many petty annoyances, which usually come from those whose education should teach them better. There are others who are deficient of this desideratum, who claim from the lack of educated honesty some charity and excuse for their acts. We occasionally find among purchasers some who are known as "shoppers" and "runners," who make no difference where they trade, so long as it shall be the best article at a low price; and to make a sale to such the market-price must generally be reduced; and when that is done, suspicion steps into the "shopper's" mind, who examines and re-examines, with question after question, whether "perfectly good, tender, and sweet;" and upon


View page [24]
being answered in the affirmative, the "shopper" often turns from the dealer with a supercilious gesticulation, as if they placed no confidence in the recommendation. We recur to an instance where a lady had several times treated a butcher to this negative treatment to his recommended meat, when she was, by him, impressed with this well-merited retort: "My previous answers, in relation to the quality of meat which you several times before selected, have not received such attention as was expected from you; hereafter you will be obliged to judge for yourself." She was not a purchaser on that occasion, but afterwards she gave no further trouble in this respect.

There are other dealers, again, who use much of what may be termed outside deceit--that is, by placing some attractive mark or emblem, in the way of flags, ribbons, signs, etc., to represent the articles so dressed and decorated as being either premium or prize or superior, or some extraordinary quality about them, from the good or general average of what they should represent; and this is done for the purpose of procuring a higher price for an inferior article. In fact, I have heard it said: "I put ribbons and flags on my meat to make it sell for a good price, as I am bound to make money some way or another." This method this class adopt as a "legitimate manner of doing business."

The safest plan for the inexperienced is to select respectable dealers, on whom they can rely. They may charge higher prices for that which they furnish; in the end, however, more satisfaction is afforded, by less risk, and more saving and relish--in fact, cheaper in every way, because all good articles are with profit used--that, while the best articles may cost more money in the purchase thereof, they will be found to be the most economical in the end.

On the other view, unprincipled dealers are always ready for what they term chances, either by giving short weight, short measure, or short change; and, if they are detected, "Why, it's a mistake!" or, if he (or she) think that blustering,


View page [25]
or loud and harsh words, will frighten the wronged purchaser, this mode of tactics is brought to bear.

Many respectable purchasers, not having the time to go to the public markets, will sometimes purchase of the "cheap shops," or street-pedlers, many of whom are still worse than those we have already spoken of, especially street-pedlers, who cannot be found when their fraud or deceit is too late discovered.

A few years ago, one of the city sealers of weights and measures, in one of the districts of our (New York) city, collected fifty-four measures, from grocers and wagon-pedlers, that fell short of the standard. A half-bushel fell short three and a half quarts; twenty-one half-peck measures fell short about one quart each; fifteen two-quart measures were short six quarts in the aggregate; and sixteen one-quart measures were short, in the aggregate, six quarts.

An old law, as well as a long-standing custom, makes it incumbent upon the seller that all articles subject to be sold by the measure--such as apples, peaches, potatoes, and others of a round, oval, or flat conformation--shall be heaped up above the even line of the measures, to make up for the interspaces between the irregularities of such articles of food, etc.

The fish, fruit, vegetables, etc., which are usually peddled about the streets in carts and wagons, are seldom found so good as those offered for sale in the public markets, they being either the refuse of the markets, unfit to be offered by the respectable dealer, or happens to be a glut, or very large quantities offered; and, even then, their selections are generally of those which sell at the lowest price; then, in their sales through the streets, their false-bottomed measures, short weights, or their stale or unfit articles, are detected by examination; they are off, and not to be found, until the frauds and their persons are forgotten.

When the purchaser desires to be served through orders


View page [26]
by the butcher, or others, it is best that they should have such latitude or choice of sending the purchaser that which they may have in the best condition for immediate use. If it be for a roast, it should be either a rib, sirloin, or other piece of beef; or leg, loin, saddle, or shoulder of mutton; or fore or hind quarter of lamb; or fillet, loin, shoulder, or breast of veal; or turkey, capons, chickens, venison, partridges, or grouse, etc. If for a boil, a leg of mutton, rump or round, plate, navel, or brisket of corned beef; and the same, in fact, with all the various dishes.

Without particular joints, or other articles, are ordered for an arranged or "dinner-party," it is then best, as well as proper, to give notice a day or two before, that the butcher, or other, may prepare a particular, prime, or choice article, such as may not only please the purchaser, but will give the butcher, or other dealer, some satisfaction--as it is gratifying to the conscientious dealer to hear that his joints or other articles were praised, as it is to those who pay for that which is acceptable and pleasing to them.

> DOMESTIC OR TAME ANIMALS.

The domestic or tame animals which are usually prepared by the butchers into meat, produce one of the chief articles of food in our daily supplies; and the first among these animals stands the ox, one of the richest gifts to man, being useful to the farmer as a faithful worker, a great assistant in enriching his land, and then as a mill to grind his surplus fodder into beef, while every thing about him, from his hoofs to his horns, is profitable for some purpose or other.

Nearly all of these animals, while living, are known by the names given to them by our Anglo-Saxon fathers; but, when slaughtered and dressed, their flesh assumes another name, as the ox, with its varieties--the bullock, steer, cow, heifer, stag, and bull--are changed to beef; sheep, consisting


View page [27]
of the wether, ewe, stag, buck or ram, are changed to mutton; calf, to that of veal; hog, i.e., pig, shoat, barrow, sow, stag, hog, and boar, to that of pork. The same changes will also apply to some species of wild animals.

Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, and pork, are usually found throughout the year, in its various seasonable preparations, in all the public markets, and they may be reasonably considered "always in season;" but there are certain months in the year when each are found in greater perfection than at other periods of the year, although, when a sound, healthy animal has been properly fed and prepared, the flesh will be found to be excellent eating in any part of the year. The additional advantage of a cool atmosphere (not freezing the flesh), permitting it to hang for several days, or even weeks, such flesh as beef, mutton, lamb, venison, etc., will render them not only tender, but also add much to the richness of their flavor. I may here also add, that the flesh of all animals, poultry, and game (drawn), is much better in the warm weather, when it can be placed in a cool cellar; a deep well (tied in a linen bag, and hung by a rope near the water), a refrigerator, or an ice-house, for a day or two, will render the flesh cool and firm enough for good eating.

When it is necessary to send or carry any kind of fresh provisions great distances--such as butcher-meat, poultry, game, or fish--either article should first be kept in a refrigerator, or other cold place, until thoroughly cooled, then wrapped in a coarse linen cloth, around which should be placed cabbage-leaves (or other green leaves), and the whole again wrapped and tied up in a coarse cloth, and placed in a basket, when the articles may be carried from six to ten hours without the danger of becoming sour or tainted. Poultry, game, or fish should be drawn, and a piece of charcoal, wrapped in a thin linen rag, be inserted into the drawn parts; as the intestines, when left in, are apt to give the flesh a disagreeable flavor.

Beef and mutton are usually found best from November


View page [28]
to May, from the fact that those animals producing this flesh are then generally "grain or stall fed," although those fed, or which are fattened, on roots, pumpkins, or grass, produce good, sweet, and tender meats; but it has not the weight, substance, or heart that is found in "stall-fed" meat. From a letter written to B. P. Johnson, Esq., Secretary of the New York State Agricultural Society, found in their "Transactions" (1852, vol. xii., p. 282), the following extract refers to this subject: "You are aware, no doubt, that the greatest quantity of 'barrelled beef' sent to foreign markets is packed in the West. Great portions are of young cattle, fattened on grass, principally of a quick and large growth, and are what we New York butchers call 'grass-fed beef." The beef when fresh will eat soft, tender, juicy, and sweet, but will not have the delicious flavor, solidity, firmness, weight, or the heart or nourishment that the stall-fed (with grain) beef has. It appears to me, as soon as the salt touches "grass-fed beef" it draws back, shrinks into a smaller compass, and changes to a dark color, as if there was not firmness or solidity to resist the action of the salt; and when boiled, especially if salted a long time, will shrink very much, leaving it tasteless, juiceless, without heart or substance, and, when cut, of a dark color. "Stall-fed beef," on the contrary, is like corn-fed pork, which has the appearance (when properly cured) of being firmer, brighter, plumper, or has a swelled look, as if the well-mixed fat protected the lean parts of the flesh. We seldom hear of farmers, or others, salting down "grass or milk fed pork." They pen them up, and feed as much corn, generally, as the animal will take, for sometimes months before slaughtering; and when they are salted--I quote an old saying--"Put one pound of corn-fed pork in the pot, it comes out two," which will apply to "stall-fed beef."

Animals in sound health, which have been fairly fed, will have a layer of fat between the skin and the flesh or muscles. This may be termed the outside fat or back fat.


View page [29]
The fat will also be mixed in and through the muscles themselves, according to the quantity and quality of the feeding. When highly fed the flesh increases, the back fat thickens, the muscles become marbled with small particles of fat throughout the body, and a large collection of fat around the kidneys, which butchers call suet, to designate it from the common meat or flesh fat.

I may here observe, that it is artificial or over-feeding that produces the prize, choice, and extra-large fine cattle, sheep, etc., sometimes exhibited at our fairs and cattle markets.

> BEEF.

In relation to the best cattle for beef, the question may properly be asked, Which among the varieties of neat-cattle will generally produce the best or choicest eating beef?

This point, I am well aware, many of our most respectable butchers, epicures, and others, will honestly differ in. I, however, shall present the experience which has brought me in contact with all sorts and sizes, shades and colors, and not only by hundreds, but by thousands, from the poorest, toughest "old bull," used for jerked-beef, to feed the slaves of the West Indies, to that of the choicest--the winners of many first-prizes--which have been so elaborately prepared, both to tickle the palates of the many epicures and lovers of good beef, and also to gain the admiration of thousands. Notwithstanding this, my observations may not be correct; they, however, are my convictions. I therefore proceed to place them in the order as they appear, as follows:

First--Spayed Heifer, from four to seven years old.

Second--Steer or bullock (never worked), from four to six years old.

Third--Free Martin (or barren heifer), not over eight years old.

View page [30]

Fourth--Ox,	from five to eight years old.
Fifth--Heifer,	" three to four "
Sixth--Cow,	" " to eight "
Seventh--Stag,	" " to " "
Eighth--Bull,	" two to six "

In the above arrangement I have placed the Spayed Heifer first--from four to seven years old--as generally affording the best and choicest beef. I mean, of course, with the same breed, care, and partaking of the same feeding. My reasons for this are: that she is more docile and quiet, a gentler disposition, not apt to roam or run so much as the common heifer or steer, and therefore she will naturally flesh and thrive faster, while her nerves, muscles, or flesh and fat, are rendered more tender from her general quietude. I do not pretend to assert that this quiet manner of growing beef will produce that which shall be the most nutritious and wholesome, because this question must be left to scientific research; my wish here is to show that which shall prove the most profitable, tender, and well-tasted beef.

The usual appearance of the above-described Spayed Heifer, or fine steer, beef, when first cut with a knife, or afterwards, when it has laid together against or on marble, a dish, etc., it will be found to be quite a dark red color; but the action of the air, on being exposed to it, in five minutes after will change its color to a clear cherry red.

This beef will also have a juicy or sappy appearance, with a fine smooth grain to the touch, and in cold weather (or if it has been thoroughly cooled by the aid of ice) it should present a well-mixed or marbled appearance. The fat, both outside and through the muscles, presents a clear, straw-colored appearance, and that on the outside should entirely cover the back of the loin and ribs, in some parts not less than half an inch. The kidney-fat, or suet, should be so large, or so well filled up under or inside the loin, especially the thin end, that the whole sirloin (when cut up), suet, or kidney-fat, down, will lay nearly on a level; or, in other words, the thin end should appear nearly as thick as the


View page [31]
thick or rump end when laid on a bench or block to be cut up.

The suet should be of a brighter shade than the meat or muscle fat, dry and hard, break or crumble easily, and at the same time show but little fibre through it. When greasy or oily, or tough and full of tough fibre, small in quantity, is a certain indication that the animal has been improperly fed, overdriven, or brought from a great distance, and therefore the quality of the beef is deteriorated by rendering it more tough, dry, and tasteless.

Ox and cow beef, when in good condition, will show their flesh and fat of a darker color; that of the ox, more particularly, will have an open and a coarser grain, as well as hard, tough cartilages, sinews, ligaments, and muscle, less flesh according to the quantity of bone, and if the animal has been always kept in a good fat condition, the flesh will not be, or eat so tender nor so juicy or fine-flavored as one (not too old) which has been worked down in flesh, then turned into fine pasture with a "summer's run," taken up and stall-fed for two, three or four months, when all the newly made, or growth of flesh, will be a much more tender, a rich cutting, and also well-flavored beef, than the preceding; but still the old nerves and muscle is not replaced, but left behind, and show themselves, more particularly in the pieces which are called plate, navel, and brisket pieces. If, however, the animals (old or young) are poor, then when slaughtered their flesh will show little or no fat on the back and through the muscles, and will also be of a darker color, quite dry looking, very little kidney-fat or suet, and the kidney itself not well covered; and this kind of beef will be usually quite hard, dry, and not well-flavored eating.

Stag-beef is usually found more fleshy than the ox or steer: of a dusky red, close-grained; and unless the animal has been well fed the flesh will be quite tough and somewhat strongly flavored. If, however, the stag has been altered when quite young, it will much improve the quality


View page [32]
of the flesh. Their horns are generally thicker and shorter than those of the steer or ox.

Bull-beef is the poorest eating of all beef, especially an old, poor, worn-out bull. They are always heavy-fleshed, especially in the neck and buttock. The color of the flesh is sometimes almost black, usually tough, with a strong rank scent or flavor, especially when it is fresh killed; although some months in the year a fine, fat young bull will keep hunger off, but will never be choice eating.

All animals should be killed when they are in the coolest state, or when respiration is the least active. Their flesh then will keep much longer fresh, and be more beautiful, sweet, and healthful; but when killed in a heated condition, or immediately after a hard drive, the flesh will take longer to cool through, spoil sooner, and the flesh and fat will have a feverish, dark look (caused from its being full of blood), and of course it will not be so inviting or considered so healthy.

The animal for beef, after having been killed and dressed, is called a carcass of beef; the one-half (a hind and fore quarter), a side of beef; and the separate quarters, a hind-quarter of beef and a fore-quarter of beef. The same terms will also apply to mutton, lamb, veal, pork, or, in fact, to almost all animals.

The whole carcass, before being "split down," or divided through the back, has been occasionally roasted whole, here, as well as many other places, usually to celebrate some great event. I have witnessed several public occasions in this city when the roasting of an ox was one of the great features, which, of course, took place on some public ground, and, five times out of six, part of the carcass would be invariably spoiled or tainted, as it appeared almost impossible to apply the heat so as to roast the inside of the thick parts; and the consequence was, that it would be about half-roasted--some portions burnt, and the greater part heated just enough to make it turn sour or spoiled, and, of course, unfit to be eaten. No doubt, large iron spits


View page [33]
or skewers could be introduced or forced through the thick parts, which, when properly heated, would produce the desired object.

The first account of an "Ox-Roasting," which has come under my notice, would now seem a very curious and expensive affair, as it happened in the latter part of the year 1727, on the "King's Birthday," in the then fashionable city of Bath, England. This account is found in the New York Gazette (January 29, 1728), which ushers the day in as follows:

"At four o'clock in the Morning, the Bells struck out; a Bonfire was lighted, and a whole Ox set a roasting, with a Quantity of Liquor, and Huzzas to his Majesty's Health. At 6 the Drums beat the young Gentleman Volunteers to arms; by 8, an Hundred and Sixty assembled themselves together at the Colonel's House; by 10, they were ready to march, but first every Man drank a Glass of Brandy to his Majesty's Health. The Officers were extremely rich in their Apparel--Velvet, Embroidery, Gold and Silver Laces; the Men with fine Caps, Cockades, Holland Shirts, Silver and Gold Ribbons, Shoulder-knots, fine Scarlet Cloth Breeches, richly laced white Stockings, red Tops to their Shoes; the Slings to their Pieces had this Motto: 'God save King George the Second.' By 12, they marched through the best part of the town, with two Sword-Bearers, a sett of Morris-Dancers, and Martial Musick before them; then came to the Market-place, where they drew up in Order for Fire. Wine was brought, and every Officer charged his Glass; the King, Queen, and Royal Family went round distinct, with a Volley at each Health; the Glasses were thrown over their Heads; and in other parts of the town they did the same. Then Captain Goulding repeated this Verse, extempore:

In spite of Legions of Infernal Devils below,

To ye Powers above, supream Divine.

Let George in the Center our Standard be,

And his Queen the great Caroline

View page [34]

"One Colonel Edward Collins, that keeps the White-Hart Inn, and Captain Thomas Goulding, Jeweller in the Walks, Captain James Warriner, Bookseller in the Walks, Lieutenant Collins, Woolen-Draper in the Churchyard, Lieutenant Taylor, Sword-Cutter in the Churchyard, and three more young Gentlemen of the Town-Officers, which makes 8 in Number, that gave the Ox and all the charges thereto. They drew to the Beef when roasting, with Handfuls of Silver, each Officer, and obliged the Cook to stuff it into the Shoulders and Neck; and Captain Goulding, Jeweller, stuffed above an Hundred true stones into the Buttocks of the Ox, several Diamonds, Rubies, Saphires, Emeralds, Garnets, Amethists, and Topasses. At two, the Ox was ready, brought to the Table, put into a Dish 12 Foot long and 6 wide, made on purpose. They dined in the Public Market-House; but the stuffing made the Mob so furious that they flung themselves over the Heads of the Officers, into the Dish, and stood over their Shoes in Gravy; and one was stuffed into the Belly of the Ox, and almost stifled with Heat and Fat. The Grease flew about to that Degree which made the Officers quit the Table, or all their Cloaths must have been Spoiled. They stopt and looked on their Proceedings till three; then they all Marched to the Colonels, and staid till four. They went out again on their Procession. At five, the candles begun to light; at 6, the town was illuminated. They went into the Colonel's Quarters, near Seven, with Huzzas--'King George for ever!'--where there was great Quantities of Wine and Beer drank to his Majesty's Health, and all his loving Subjects in his extended Dominions. At Eleven, the Drums beat 'Go to bed, Tom!' and all departed in Peace after Pleasure."

The following figure represents the form of a Spayed Heifer, which is found marked with lines, numbers, and letters, showing where the several joints or parts of the animal for beef are taken from, and how to cut the quarters up in the common manner--as cut in the city of New York. Those marked with the letter S are commonly used for


View page [35]
steaks of the best, middling, and poorest kinds. The numbers on the top of the back denote the number of ribs in each "roasting-piece;" while those numerically numbered


[Illustration: An illustration of an animal with numbered sections relating to various cuts of beef. See text for description of numbered sections.]

designate the common name of each part, as used in the cities of New York and Brooklyn, followed by those of Boston and Philadelphia--the two latter, however, as near as can be given, from the marked joints in the foregoing figure.

View page [36]

New York and Brooklyn.	Boston.	Philadelphia.
1. S Hip sirloin or thick sirloin.	Part of the rump or hook bone.	Pinbone sirloin.
2. Second-cut ribs or middle ribs.	Second prime-ribs.	Middle-rib cut.
3. S. Small end sirloin.	Sirloin.	Sirloin.
4. First-cut rib or first rib-pieces.	Fore-rib or first prime-rib.	First-rib cut.
5. Third-cut ribs or thick ribs.	Third prime-rib.	Third-rib cut.
6. First-cut chuck ribs.	First chuck-rib.	Best chuck-rib
7. S. Second-cut chuck rib.	Second chuck-rib.	Chuck-rib cut.
8. S. Cross rib.	Leg or shoulder-of-mutton piece.	Boler-piece.
9. S. third-cut chuck rib or chuck-piece.	Chuck-piece.	Chuck-piece.
10. S. Rump of beef.	Aitch or edgebone (part of).	Tall end rump.
11. Socket or face rump.	Rump (part of).	Rump-piece (part of).
12. First-cut round.	Round.	Round.
13. Second-cut round.	Leg ran.	Round (part of)
14. Top of sirloin.	Thick Flank.	Cut with Sirloin Steaks.
15. S. First-cut neck or neck-piece.	Neck-piece.	Neck-cut.
16. S. Second-cut neck or neck-piece.	"	"
17. Plate-piece.	Rattle-Ran or Runner piece.	Plate-piece.
18. Navel-piece.	Navel end of brisket.	Thin end of brisket.
19. Brisket-piece.	Butt end of brisket.	Thick end of brisket.
20. Shoulder clod.	Clod (part of).	Clod (part of).
21. Flank-piece.	Thin flank.	Flank.
22. Third cut neck or neck-piece.	Neck-piece.	Neck.
23. Leg of beef or leg.	Shank.	Leg.
24. Shin of beef or shin.	Shin.	Shank.

In presenting the above names, as it were, belonging to each city, I was somewhat puzzled to procure, from numerous inquiries, those which appeared to be the most common ones; although there were some which all appeared to agree upon, then again, no two were alike; some had been always used to one name, while others had another, and if I had given all it would have been quite difficult for the buyer, or even the seller to have become reconciled to the large number, so I concluded to adopt those which appeared to have


View page [37]
the most intelligent friends. I also found that many foreign butchers had not only brought their countries' customs of cutting up meats, but also their names of the joints; and then, again, there were others in the same markets who have different ways of cutting, and they also have adopted names which appeared to have been known only to themselves. I have, however, a hope that the following wood-cuts may assist the eye to distinguish the most prominent of the above-named joints, and also to know how to use them, or, rather, what dishes they are severally and generally used for; and, therefore, we will proceed to cut up, first, the different quarters of beef.

The hind-quarters are usually considered the choice quarters, as from them are cut or taken the large and famous "Baron of Beef," which the English hold in the highest estimation as the crowning dish for the Christmas dinner. This joint is seldom prepared in this country, but it is cut much like a saddle of mutton; that is, by leaving the two sirloins together; when being dressed, the hind-quarters of the animal are not separated, but cut so as to saddle or baronize them, by taking off the buttocks, rumps, sockets, tops of sirloins, and a part of the suet, which leaves almost a square-looking piece, first known in England as the baron of beef; and this enormous piece is roasted whole.

The principal dish, from time immemorial, for the sovereigns of England at their Christmas dinner is the "Royal Baron of Beef." In an English print I read that "it was this year (1854) cut from a fine Highland ox, fed by Prince Albert, and weighed eight hundred and forty pounds. It was put down before an enormous fire on Saturday afternoon, and for fourteen hours was watched and basted by relays of assistants under the head cook, after which it was trimmed and decorated, with the holly and mistletoe apparently sprouting from the outside fat of the meat."

I also find the following advertisement for the Christmas festivities: "A Baron of Beef will be roasted on Wednesday next at the Merchants' Dining Rooms, Lancaster Buildings,


View page [38]
Exchange-street, East Liverpool. Will be placed on the table at one o'clock," etc.

In this city I have found several instances where this great dish was prepared and served, and a few of these evidences of the fact are now in my possession in the shape of old bills of fare. About the first found on my list was given by William Sykes, who kept one of the best public houses at the period of which this "baron of beef" was given, then called the "New York Coffee House," and located at the corner of William-street and Slote-lane (Beaver-street.)

This took place on the 8th of October, 1823, in honor of the union of the Erie Canal waters with the Hudson River, on which occasion he served up "a 'baron of beef' measuring nearly four feet in length, and weighing one hundred and twelve pounds. It was placed upon a marble slab and surmounted with a white silk flag, bearing the arms of the State, and painted for the occasion." Then at the Agricultural Society's dinner, which took place on Friday, the 31st inst. following, at a place called "Mount Vernon," located on the East River, just above the (Youle's) shot-tower. Another "baron of beef," weighing but one hundred and nine pounds, was furnished by Thomas Gibbons, No. 60 Fulton Market.

The year following (1824), the corporation gave a dinner, on Monday, the 5th of July, in the City-Hall, when a large baron of beef was on the table; and the next year they gave another, quite as large as the previous one, on Monday, the 4th of July. I am also much indebted to Charles H. Webb, Esq., the almoner of St. George Society, who informs me that this Society has had several barons of beef served up at their Anniversary dinners, which were principally prepared by Mr. and Mrs. William Niblo. The following incident will show one of the mistakes which occurred with perhaps the largest and finest baron of beef ever prepared for, or attempted to be roasted in New York, or elsewhere. This, no doubt, occurred from the anxiety of Mrs. Niblo to outdo all former efforts of giving this choice piece in the greatest perfection. She gave the order


View page [39]
and her instructions to Mr. Andrew C. Wheeler (butcher, No. 19 Fulton Market), that it should be the largest and finest that he could procure. It was taken from a very choice animal, and, when trimmed, weighed some two hundred and eighty pounds then sent to Niblo--who then kept his famous garden and hotel corner of Broadway and Prince-street--the day before the grand dinner of the St. George Society was to take place. The same night, late, Mrs. Niblo was about to put it down to roast. She found it so large and unwieldy that she could not spit it, let alone roast it; so, about midnight, she sent for Mr. Wheeler, who came, and, after cutting some one hundred pounds or more off of it, they were enabled to get it spitted, and near enough to the fire to commence this great roast for the next afternoon's dinner. They had, however, almost given it up in despair before they succeeded; but it was said that it was superbly cooked and served up, as every thing else was with which Mrs. Niblo had to do.

Dividing the baron of beef exactly through the centre of the loins, or back-bone, produces two sirloins--a name which has become extensively known and commonly associated with this choice part of the carcass. It is said that the name originated with Charles II., who jocularly knighted that part of the animal Sir-Loin.

We will again turn to the different quarters of beef, and show the most prominent joints marked on the figure separately; but perhaps a brief explanation, showing how and where to obtain these joints, which to cut off first, and how to handle or lay the different quarters in the most convenient way to separate or cut them up, is first in order.

The hind-quarter is first laid down on a strong table, back down; the buttock and flank, together, are first separated, the other part turned over on the other (suet) side, when the knife divides the rump-piece from the sirloin. These two pieces--rump-piece and buttock--will be subdivided hereafter; in the mean time, we will show that, if the sirloin-piece is wanted or sold for the use of hotels


View page [40]
or steamers, it is either sent whole or cut into roasts or steaks, as desired.

The Boston and Philadelphia butchers, after cutting off the buttock and thin-end sirloin, are prepared to cut their fine rump-steaks, which are much the same as our sirloin-steak, only cut more across the hip (or pin) bone. Many of them remove part of the bone.

We will now divide the sirloin-piece into portions suitable for families who want roasting-pieces, which are cut of all


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

sizes: the thick part, containing the hip-bone, will give the largest piece, while the small end cuts two small pieces, say from eight to twelve pounds each. The best of these is shown in the above figure, and usually called the "middle-cut sirloin."

The other part, adjoining the ribs, is usually known as the thin-end sirloin, being much like the middle-cut sirloin, but with less tenderloin, and is sometimes preferred for a small family, or those who seek it for its close proximity to the prime ribs. It is also cut up into small-loin or porter-house steaks.

The thick part of the sirloin, by cutting off a few round-bone steaks adjoining the rump side, contains the largest part of the tenderloin, or filet-de-bœuf, which forms a large and choice piece for roasting, from twelve to twenty-five


View page [41]
pounds in weight. This piece is shown in the figure below, and usually known as the "hip-sirloin."

This choice part of the beef is sometimes termed the thick-end sirloin; and, when it is not used for roasting, it is cut into three kinds of the finest dinner-steaks, all commonly called sirloin steaks, but separately. The first and


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

best, containing the largest quantity of tenderloin, is shown in the figure on following page, and known as the "hip sirloin-steak," of which there are but two or three in one sirloin.

Next in order is the "flat-bone sirloin-steak" (shown in figure on page 43), of which there are about the same number as the "hip sirloin-steak." This is followed by the same number of the "round-bone sirloin-steak" (shown in figure on page 44), which is cut up to the socket-bone or socket-piece. This latter steak makes an excellent beef-steak-pie, beef-tea, minced collops, etc., as it contains more lean than either of the preceding-named steaks.

I am much indebted to Henry W. Dunshee, Esq., for the following "Origin of Beefsteak:"

"The discovery of the chief sources of human enjoyment has all been attributed to some fabulous origin in the ancient world. The story of that important feature of dinner,


View page [42]
the beefsteak, was thus given in the middle ages:--Lucius Plaucus, a Roman of rank, was ordered by the Emperor Trajan, for some offence, to act as one of the menial sacrificers to Jupiter; he resisted, but was at length dragged to


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

the altar. There the fragments of the victim were laid upon the fire, and the unfortunate senator was forcibly compelled to turn them. In the process of roasting, one of the slices slipped off the coals and was caught by Plaucus in its fall. It burned his fingers, and he instinctively thrust


View page [43]
them into his mouth. In that moment he had made the grand discovery that the taste of a slice thus carbonaded was infinitely beyond all the old sodden cookery of Rome. A new expedient to save his dignity was suggested at the


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

same time, and he at once evinced his obedience to the emperor by seeming to go through the sacrifices with due regularity, and his scorn of the employment by turning the whole ceremony into a matter of appetite. He swallowed every slice, deluded Trajan, defrauded Jupiter, and invented the beefsteak! A discovery of this magnitude could not be long concealed; the sacrifices began to disappear


View page [44]
with a rapidity and satisfaction to the parties too extraordinary to be unnoticed. The priests of Jupiter adopted the practice with delight, and the king of Olympus must have been soon starved if he depended on any share of the good things of Rome."

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

Broiling Steaks. --In the early part of the nineteenth century, when travelling by the stage-coaches was the fashion, Mr. Southmayd, my neighbor, says: "Travellers going to the eastern cities and towns--Boston, New Haven, etc.--and those who travelled much, were always anxious to


View page [45]
reach New Haven, to enjoy a good broiled beefsteak. A man, by the name of Butler, kept a public house in that town, in Chapel-street, and, about that time, was famous for his delicious steaks, which he always cooked or attended to himself. You would find him, with his white cap and apron on, before a heap of live hickory coals, in front of the great wide old-fashioned chimney, having a long handle attached to a large double (hinged) gridiron, and a fine steak fastened up in it, so that he could keep the steak turning, first on the one side then on the other, that not a drop of the fine gravy should drip off. When done, it was dished up, and placed steaming hot before the hungry travellers, who never failed to do ample justice to the efforts of the cook, who, by these means, built a reputation, as well as a fortune, by the knowledge of broiling a beefsteak."

The rules adopted by the celebrated "Beefsteak Club," organized in England, in 1734, were thus represented:

"HOW TO COOK A BEEFSTEAK.

"Pound well your meat until the fibres break;

Be sure that next you have, to broil the steak,

Good coal in plenty; nor a moment leave,

But turn it over this way and then that.

The lean should be quite rare--not so the fat:

The platter now and then the juice receive.

Put on your butter--place it on your meat--

Salt, pepper; turn it over, serve and eat."

The small-end sirloin, when not called for roasting, is cut into "small loin steaks," vulgarly known as "porterhouse steaks," which are represented in the following wood-cut under the head of "small loin steaks."

The origin of the name of "porter-house steaks" took place about the year 1814, in the following manner:

Martin Morrison was the proprietor of a long-established and well kept "porter-house," located and known at that period at No. 327 Pearl-street (New York), near the "old Walton House." We introduce him in 1803, where we find small loin, or porter-house steaks.

View page [46]

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

The opens a "porter-house" at No. 43 Cherry-street, which became a popular resort with many of the New York pilots for his prepared hot meals, at any hour, at their call, they being occasionally detained on shipboard until their vessels were safely moored.

The "porter-houses" in those days were not so devoted to tippling, dram-drinking, and the common nests for the loafing, or the manufacturing of politicians and corrupt officials as at the present day, but rather to accommodate the hungry and thirsty travellers, old and young bachelors, sea-men, and others with a cold lunch after the English custom--"a pot of ale [or porter] and a bite of something." Some "porter-houses" prepared a hot meal of one or two dishes, among which was Morrison's, who must have been quite famous for his excellent broiled beefsteaks, which were universally called for at his place.

On one occasion (at the above period, 1814), Morrison having had an unusual call for steaks, he had cooked his last steak, and, as fortune would have it for all future partakers of beefsteaks, an old favorite but a rough pilot, made him a late visit, both hungry and thirsty, having been several hours without food. Not caring for the salt junk aboard the vessel which he had piloted in, he concluded to wait until he got on shore, that he might cast his anchor at Morrison's,


View page [47]
where he could enjoy his "hot steak and mug of porter."

In his honest language the pilot gave his usual order. Morrison had nothing but his family dinner for the next day, which consisted of a sirloin roasting-piece, of which he offered to cut from if the old pilot would have it. "Yes, my hearty, any thing--so long as it is a beefsteak--for I am as empty as a gull!" exclaimed the pilot. Morrisan cut off a good-sized slice, had it dressed and served, which the pilot ravenously devoured, and turning to the host (who had been expecting a blast from the old tarpaulin, but who, to his astonishment, received the order): "Messmate, another steak just like that--do you hear?" Having finished his steaks and the second mug of porter, the old pilot squared himself towards his host, loudly vociferating, "Look ye here, messmate, after this I want my steaks off the roasting-piece?--do ye hear that?--so mind your weather-eye, old boy!"

It was not long after this when the old pilot's companions insisted upon having these "small loin steaks" served to them. Morrison soon discovered that these steaks were more suitable in size to dish up for single individuals, and he ever after purchased the sirloin roasting-pieces, from which he cut off these small steaks as they were called for, the large sirloin-steaks becoming less in demand.

Morrison's butcher--Thomas Gibbons--in the Fly Market, one morning put the question, after he (Morrison) had selected several sirloin pieces, "Why he had ceased purchasing the usual quantity of sirloin steaks?" Says Morrison, "I will tell you the reason: I cut off from the sirloin roasting-pieces a small steak which serves my pilots and single patrons best; but as it is now cold weather, I wish to have these roasting-pieces cut up as I shall direct every morning." After this, Morrison's sirloins were daily cut up by Mr. Gibbons, with his order to "cut steaks for the porter-house;" hence the sirloin was changed into "cut the porter-house steaks." Their appearance attracted the attention


View page [48]
of other butchers and keepers of porter-houses, who admired their appearance and convenient size; in a few years their name and character became quite common to the butchers of the Fly Market, from which the name has spread to the several principal cities of the United States, and I doubt not that the name, porter-house steak, has reached across the Atlantic.

Tender-loin (or filet de bœuf). This most tender portion of the beef is taken from the under or kidney side of the whole sirloin, behind the suet, stretching along the inner loin or backbone. It commences at, and connects with the round-bone steak, extending to the thin-end sirloin, and seldom weighs above ten pounds when all taken out. It is much thicker and broader at one end, gradually tapering to the other, and measuring from sixteen to twenty inches in length. It is considered the most tender, and by many the choicest part of the animal, and therefore always commands an extra price.

The reason of the tenderness of this choice bit is, that it is so situated in the animal while living, that the uses of this flesh or muscle is little called into action, and lies well warmed and protected by the fat on one side, and on the other by the backbone. It is found that those parts of the animal's flesh are tender which are not brought into wear and tear by the ordinary movements of the animal, of which it would seem the back, the loin, and the rump appear to have the least straining, and therefore in those parts is found the tenderest flesh; on the contrary, the neck, legs, sides, and buttocks are brought into violent action by the physical efforts in walking, eating, lying down, stretching, rubbing, and other muscular movements.

The tenderloin is not recognized by the epicure as either being the sweetest or best-flavored meat. The cause of this will be readily understood when it is known, as already stated, that this muscle is not used as much as are the other sweeter portions of the beef; hence, the blood flows more sluggishly through its substance, with the consequent less


View page [49]
nervous force brought to bear upon it. We therefore find, while the tenderloin possesses the attribute of tenderness, it must be recognized as being flabby, or soft, or deficient in tone or firmness compared with the glowing life-giving essentials observable in the meat of ribs, rumps, and the top side of the sirloin, and other outside portions of slaughtered animals.

The animal which is kept housed, especially in a small dark pen, often breathing an impure atmosphere while fattening,


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

will not produce well-flavored flesh; but it certainly will be more tender (in consequence of the inaction, from being penned up and forced into quietness) than that which is taken from the animals fattened and exercised in the free


View page [50]
open air, upon the same food. In fact, wild animals, which range and fatten upon the hills and mountains, always produce flesh the sweetest, as well as of the highest flavor, and


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

certainly the most healthy for human food. It would appear that the genial warmth of the sun, the pure mountain air, and the short sweet mountain-grasses, produce their influences in perfecting and sweetening living things, whether animal or vegetable, intended for our sustenance.

The whole rump-piece is usually divided into two or more pieces. The first, or that which joins on the sirloin, is called the face-rump, or "socket-piece" (shown in the figure on preceding page). The other part is known by the common name, "rump of beef" (shown in the above figure).

When this piece is divided through the centre streak of


View page [51]
fat, cutting about half-way across the dark bone, on the left side of the fat, the smallest piece on the left side is called the edge-bone (aitch, H, itch, or adze bone), and the other side the tail-end-rump, or "rump-piece." From the rump of beef are also cut pieces for doube, bouilli, stewing, potted beef, fricandeau, etc., and, when left whole, is one of the best joints of corned beef.

The buttock, cut large or full, by cutting off the flank and fat, forms three pieces for smoking, viz., inside piece, outside piece, and veiny piece; the first is generally preferred, although the latter is the most tender. This leaves a large leg of beef. Or the buttock can be cut into two rounds of beef--the first and second cuts. The second cut is usually smaller and not so good as the first cut. They are used for à-la-mode, à-la-doube, bouilli, stewing, and for corning.

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

The parts remaining, being a small veiny piece and the thick part of the leg of beef, are used for soups, etc., after having been cut into pieces across the marrow or leg-bone.

The buttock is often prepared by some "old-country men" for a Scotch ham,by taking off the flank, the veiny piece, and removing the whole of the leg-bone; it is then


View page [52]
cured in a sugar and spice pickle, after which it is bound hard with cord, when it is either hung to dry or lightly smoked, and is then generally used as smoked beef.

If the buttock is cut for a Scotch ham or smokers, the leg, when taken out, will have the marrow-bone attached, and assume the appearance of the following figure.

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

Top of Sirloin.--This piece is known by some as the "thick flank," being a connection with the flank and the sirloin--a piece without bone, quite tender, and well mixed with fat; used for corning, stewing, etc. The flank is either turned on the round of beef, or the fat trimmed off, when the lean parts are excellent for stewing, etc.

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

The fore-quarter being now ready, is laid upon a bench or block, ribs or inside down. It is then cut down on the


View page [53]
chuck side, close against the large prominent shoulder-bone, which is sawed through, and the shoulder-clod is cut off. The other part of the quarter is then divided, leaving the ribs and chuck in one piece, and the plate, navel, cross-rib, and brisket in the other. We next separate the two latter from the plate and navel (after counting four ribs under the cross-rib), and follow on by cutting off the brisket, and separating the navel from the plate-piece They are then ready for cuisine.

There are thirteen ribs in this quarter, nine of which are cut off from the chuck: the first seven of which are called prime ribs, and are cut into the choicest roasting-pieces, by


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

subdividing (if not sold whole) into three or more pieces. The first ribs begin from the thin-end sirloin, and are always


View page [54]
the smallest and most suitable for a small family; which, when required, it is usual to cut two ribs--first and second (or first, second, and third)--which are called the "first-cut ribs," a representation of which can be seen on the preceding page.

The next ribs--third and fourth--or representing the third, fourth, and fifth as the "middle-cut ribs," or "second-cut ribs," are illustrated on page fifty-two.

And the last two (sixth and seventh), the thickest part of the prime ribs, are called third-cut ribs.

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

Each of these prime ribs is considered by many epicures to be the finest and best-flavored pieces of the animal, not


View page [55]
excepting the sirloin. These choice pieces are usually roasted, although the first and second cuts are sometimes used for rolled beef, having all the bone taken out and skewered into a round form, when it is used for à la mode, or occasionally roasted in this form.

The last of the nine ribs (eighth and ninth) are known as the first-cut chuck rib.

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

Although it has a thin point of the shoulder-blade through it, yet it is supplied with more flesh, according with the bone, which makes it a profitable and good piece, both as to price and quality.

The chuck contains the last four ribs (making thirteen in all) running under the shoulder-blade, and the neck-piece makes up the balance of the chuck.

These chuck ribs are usually divided into pieces of one or


View page [56]
two ribs each. The first two--tenth and eleventh--are called second cut chuck rib.

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

A very sweet, juicy eating-piece of beef, not quite so tender as the first-cut chuck rib, but as well flavored. This joint sells at a much less price per pound. The next cut, being the twelfth and thirteenth, or both ribs together, is usually known as a "chuck piece," or chuck rib. These pieces are not quite so good, but having the blade taken out (as all others should be that have it in), and a piece of nice fat or suet placed or skewered in, makes an excellent piece to "roast in the pot," à la mode, potted beef, bouille, for mince pies, soups, etc.

View page [57]

When four of these chuck ribs, with the neck end, are left together, it is known as a chuck, and ofttimes this whole piece is cut into and sold as chuck steaks; the first of them, when from a choice animal, are next in quality to the sirloin steaks, being as well mixed or marbled with fat, and are equally sweet and juicy.

The balance of the chuck, or rather neck-piece, is usually divided into three or more pieces. The first, next to the chuck, is called first-cut neck-piece, and so on. These pieces are excellent for a sweet, strengthening soup, or mince pies, bolognas, etc.

The cross-rib (which the English call leg-of-mutton piece), is a profitable and good piece, very fair for a plain roast, one of the best for stewing, à la mode, bouille, and for what some of our "old-fashioned folks" call "roast in the pot."

The brisket-piece is much used by the French for bouille, soup, and a very good piece corned or salted.

The plate-piece (in Boston called rattle-ran) is commonly used for corned or salted beef, and the best for pressing. Many butchers roll it--after taking all the bones out--with sugar, spice, etc., then tie or skewer it up in a round form. After being well cured it is known as Scotch roll, a name given it by the author. It is an excellent dish when cold.

The navel-piece (or thin-end brisket) is much used for the same purposes as the plate and brisket pieces. These three pieces are used principally for salting, packing, exportation, and shipping uses.

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

The shoulder-clod, or clod, when cut in pieces, is principally used in soups, bouille, etc. The meat is juicy


View page [58]
and tender, with a nice marrow-bone in each piece, except the thick end, sometimes known as "Old Tom," although it contains a large bone, which, though hidden from view, is excellent for a rich soup.

The shin of beef, which is represented on the preceding page, is taken from off the clod; it is fit for nothing but stock for soup. When well and properly boiled, it makes a rich, gelatinous soup.

The sticking-piece is also taken from the clod, but of late years is seldom taken off. It is used principally for mince-pies, stews, soups, etc.

Half-bison (or buffalo) heifer.--An animal of the half-breed, or cross of the bison bull and Durham cow, was slaughtered by me in the month of October, 1855, and for further particulars the following extract is taken from the


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of beef.]

"Transactions of the American Institute," page two hundred and nineteen of the volume for 1855.

"This animal's age was between three and four years


View page [59]
--live weight nearly one thousand seven hundred pounds. The four quarters (dead) weighed nine hundred and forty pounds (rough fat one hundred and twelve pounds--hide seventy-five pounds). On the hump the fat measured three and one-half inches, on the loin two inches, and cut beautifully marbled. (See figure of the fifth and sixth ribs.)

"Her color almost black, with tan-colored long hair on her shoulders, and also long hair under her chin and at the fetlocks; with the turn-up horns, round nose, and the wild flashing eye of the bison. When fastened up in a large pen she was so cross and vicious that no person dare go in the pen with her, and when a red object presented itself, whether a shawl on a lady or the red shirt of a workman, she would become very much excited and pitch directly at the object, or as far as she could go.

"Colonel De Voe reported that he had sold all her 'beef,' without giving an opinion either in favor or against the eating qualities, but wished those to whom he sold cuts to report on this point after having partaken. There were but two who reported unfavorably, some ten or twelve who thought 'they never eat finer flavored or more tender beef,' and a very large number, among whom was Lieutenant-General Scott, reported that the 'beef' was very high-flavored, with a taste of game, but not so juicy as our first-quality beef."

> VEAL.

THE calf, after it is slaughtered and dressed, is called veal; but, unlike the ox or steer, in the dressing, our regular butchers seldom take off its skin until the day it is to be placed on their stalls for sale. It is retained on the carcass for the purpose of keeping the flesh moist, bright, and clean.

Selecting the various calves to produce the best veal, I have placed them in the following order:

View page [60]

1. Heifer-calf,	from 4 to 6 weeks old, fed wholly on milk.
2. Bull-calf,	" " "
3. Steer-calf,	from 6 to 10 weeks old, fed partially on milk and meal.
4. Heifer-calf,	" " "
5. Bull-calf,	" " "
6. Steer-calf,	from 10 months up to yearling, fed as above.
7. Heifer-calf,	" " "
8. Bull-calf,	" " "

The age of the calf not being less than four nor more than six weeks, produces the best veal, if properly fed and in a healthy condition. At a less age veal is not fit for food, as the flesh is flaccid, gelatinous, and watery. When calves are wholly fed from the cow, and range between the age of four to six weeks, they produce what may be called milk veal, being the most white, tender, and delicate, and considered the choicest eating of all other veal. After six weeks the calf requires more food than the mother can produce: the milk of another cow, or a little meal, grass, or hay, is also given. This change of food, with advance of its age, of course, materially alters the character of the flesh, both in quality and color, which becomes darker, while the


View page [61]
fat is more yellow and the meat less juicy. When turned out and wholly fed on grass (grass claves), the flesh is rendered poor, dry, tasteless, and usually dark-colored.

[Illustration: An illustration of an animal with numbered sections representing various cuts of veal.]

1. Loin of veal	5. Breast of veal.
2. Leg of veal.	6. Calf's head.
3. Shoulder of veal.	7. Calf's feet.
4. Neck of veal.

[Editorial note: The above table was originally placed as a caption for the illustration of the animal with numbered sections representing various cuts of veal]

Good veal should be finely grained, tender, and juicy, the fat firm and of a whitish color. If too white, the veal will show that the calf has been bled before being slaughtered--a process which may add to its appearance, but which deprives the meat of much of its juiciness as well as its sweet flavor.

The figure on preceding page represents a calf about six weeks old, and is marked out with lines and numbers, showing the different joints and their several names.

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of veal.]

The hind-quarter of veal is the choice, and always commands the highest price. It is usually divided into two


View page [62]
parts when found on the butcher's stall, which are commonly called the loin and leg of veal. The figure on preceding page represents a loin of veal, which is the choicest portion for roasting, either whole or divided. It also makes fine veal chops, either for broiling, frying, or stewing, etc. When the loin is too large, it is divided into two small joints; the thin end is called "kidney-end," and the other "thick-end," and, by foreigners, the "chump-end."

We now turn to the leg of veal,


[Illustration: ]

which is sometimes used whole for roasting, or from it is cut the "fillet of veal," "veal cutlets," for fricandeau, force-meats, collops, etc. The fillet of veal is boned by the butcher, and is used generally for roasting, stewing, etc. The "knuckle of veal," being a part of the leg of veal after the fillet or cutlets are taken from it, makes a good light soup, a stew, or boil, etc.

View page [63]

The fore-quarter of veal comprises the shoulder, the neck, and the breast. The following figure represents a shoulder of veal,


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of veal.]

with all the bone, or blade, taken out. It is a good joint for being stuffed to roast, and will answer for that purpose without boning. A small family can make two dishes from it, by having the blade taken from the thin end, for roasting, stewing, etc. The "knuckle," or hock-end, left with the flesh on, with the blade-bone, will make a good soup or stew, at a slight cost.

View page [64]

[Illustration: An illustration of two different cuts of veal. See the text for a description of the numbers 1 and 2 on the illustration.]

The breast of veal is shown, on the left of the above engraving, connected with the "neck of veal," running from figure 1, directly down across the inside ribs, to figure 2. The breast is seen with the fat and throat sweet-bread attached, as it is usually dressed by the market-butcher. The sweet-breads are, however, sold separately.

Many persons prefer the breast of veal for roasting, stewing, veal-pie, and ragout; and it is sometimes boned, so as to roll, or a large hole is cut into it for the reception of stuffing, etc.

The neck of veal is used for stewing, fricassee, veal-pie (either pot or oven); and the best or rib end is preferred by the French and Germans for "rib chops" or "veal cotelettes"--(not "veal cutlets.")

The head, feet, haslet, sweet-breads, and other parts of the calf, are noticed under another head.

View page [65]

> MUTTON.

THE flesh of sheep, when slaughtered and dressed, is known by the name of mutton: a single one whole, a carcass of mutton; many together, mutton carcasses.

The various kinds, ages, and sex of sheep producing the best mutton, are placed in the following order:

1. Wether (cosset),	from 3 to 5 years old.
2. Wether,	" " "
3. Wether,	" 1 to 3 "
4. Ewe (cosset),	" 3 to 5 "	never having had lambs.
5. Ewe,	" " "	" "
6. Ewe,	" 1 to 3 "	" "
7. Ewe (young, breeding, but dry).
8. Ewe, of any age.
9. Stag sheep, of any age--young best.
10. Back of ram,	" "

The age of the animal producing the best mutton appears to be between three and five years old. They are then better interlarded, or mixed with fat, through the flesh, when full fed, and if not driven too far will have a large kidney fat. The cosset wether is selected as producing the best mutton, because we find its temper and habits are more docile and gentle. It is usually better fed than other sheep, and it is rarely worried in or out of the fields, but rather treated as a pet around the house or barnyard; therefore we find its flesh generally in the best condition.

Young wether mutton, although usually tender, has not so much rich flavor and sweetness as the same kind when older or fully developed by proper feeding and age.

It is asserted by some that mutton is best immediately after being killed, or before the animal heat has parted from it. If so, I have not discovered it, and I have eaten from the same animal on several different occasions--when fresh and long killed-and have always found the fresh--killed


View page [66]
mutton taste much as it smells when dressing the animal, that is, what butchers call "woolly," or "sheepy," and never so sweet or tender as the long-killed, or that which has hung the longest in clear, cool air, where the flesh has not been permitted to dry too much or become tainted; the fibre then has become tender, yields easily to the powers of mastication, and, while much of the fresh, thin, tasteless juices or water are dried out, experience shows that the thick, sweet juices are left.

The different breeds and feeding have also a great deal to do in producing the best qualities. A large-framed, coarse-woolled, fat sheep produces a coarse-grained, dry, and but indifferent-flavored mutton; while the middle-woolled, round, plump, thick sheep--generally found in the Southdown, Leicester, Cotswold, etc., breeds--produces the close-grained, tender, juicy, and high-flavored mutton, especially when they are allowed to feed upon the short, sweet grass of the hills and mountains, with the addition of proper stall-feeding afterwards.

A great deal of the mutton brought to New York City by the steamers from England, and paraded so ostentatiously at many of our first-class restaurants, hotels, etc., is generally no better than our best mutton, which can be procured from any of our first-class butchers, and more especially when it has been "hung." The principal advantage of the English mutton is on account of its being long-killed when it arrives here. I will not, however, say that we produce as much fine mutton, because I know we do not. The climate of England is more favorable, it never being so cold but that the sheep can be left out all winter, without being housed at all: in fact, I am told that these animals can eat the turnips out of the ground, where they are left for that purpose, while ours, to keep them improving, must be housed and well cared for, to produce this excellent meat in perfection.

Many travellers say that mutton is the favorite meat of the English people of all classes; it, however, is not so in


View page [67]
this country yet; but its consumption is gradually increasing, and, I think, quite as fast as the improvement and increase of the fine breeds of sheep.

General opinion confirms the fact that good mutton is one of the most wholesome, as well as the most easily digested, of all the meat kind, and therefore best calculated for invalids.

In choosing the best mutton, perhaps a few remarks may assist the unpractised buyer. The fat should be white, clear, and hard, the scored skin on the fore-quarters nearly red, the lean firm, succulent, and juicy, rather of a darkish red color, and the leg-bones clear and nearly or quite white.

Indifferent and poor mutton is seldom fat; but if so, the fat will have a yellowish appearance: and if the animal has been driven a long way, or diseased, the flesh will be flabby, the kidney-fat small, with a stringy appearance, and the lean seen through the skin on the back of a dark bluish shade.

The flesh of ram-mutton is usually found to be dark, close, and coarse-grained; the fat is of a darker (and some times of a yellowish) shade than that found in good mutton, while the flesh is softer and spongy, and rank in its flavor.

[Illustration: An illustration of an animal with numbered sections representing various cuts of mutton.]

1. Leg of Mutton.	5. Breast of Mutton.
2. Shoulder of "	6. Scrag " (end of the neck).
3. Loin of "	7. Flank "
4. & 6. Neck of "

[Editorial note: The above table was originally placed as a caption to the illustration of an animal with numbered sections representing various cuts of mutton.]

View page [68]

In dividing or cutting up a "carcass of mutton," it is usual, first, to split it through the backbone into two sides, and if the weather should be unfavorable for hanging them any length of time, it will be best to hang them separately, without quartering them. "In some parts of England," says the Westmoreland Gazette, "it is usual at Christmas for the farmers to kill each a sheep for their own use, on


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of mutton.]

which occasion, when the butcher inquires if they want any meat against Christmas, the usual reply is, 'Nay, I think not; I think o' killing myself.' Last Christmas a butcher called on a farmer of his acquaintance in the usual manner, saying, 'Will ye want a bit of meat, or ye'll kill yerself this Christmas?' 'I nae not,' replied the farmer, 'whether I'se kill myself or take a side o' me father.'"

View page [69]

In the figure on page sixty-seven is shown the various prominent pieces, designated by the number of each piece.

The carcass is also often cut with the two hind-quarters together, and so hung up on the stalls, sometimes for weeks, if in weather fit for keeping it, or long enough to ripen it. This hanging of meats is a great loss to the butcher, from the effect of drying out the juices, thereby lessening the weight. An animal of eighty pounds weight, hung up for two weeks, will lose from eight to twelve pounds, according to the state of the weather, which loss, with the risk of sudden changes of either close, damp, warm, or muggy weather, should demand an increased price, or a proper allowance made for the loss on the original weight. There are some families, however, who have proper places, and buy their mutton fresh, when it is used as it is required.

When two connected hind-quarters, which I have designated hind-saddle, are ready to be used or cut for a saddle, they are hung by the right leg: then cut a part through the aitch-bone; and again, cut off the legs, either ham (as seen on the preceding page) or haunch fashion, which leaves the two loins together, and are known as a "saddle of mutton."

This being the finest and choicest part of the mutton for roasting, it should always, if the weather will admit, be well hung, and then, before use, have the outside fleshy skin taken off. An excellent large chop which I have called saddle-chop, is cut off from the rib end of a saddle of mutton. When in a frozen state, it should be sawed off like venison, which adds much to its tenderness.

The two fore-quarters, when left together, I have designated with the name of fore-saddle, although usually called fore-quarters; and this name is usually given them when separated; but fore-quarter will properly apply to one, as it is usually known.

When the fore-saddle is wanted for a large roast, or to corn, the two breasts and shanks are taken off, with a piece or scrag end of the neck; which leaves a good thick piece I have named chines of mutton, but when separated,


View page [70]
each one a chine of mutton. By taking out the shoulder-blade it leaves less labor for the carver. For a small family, the latter piece makes a profitable and good piece, either to roast, corn, or it may be cut into lean chops.

If, however, the carcass is split and quartered, either one of the four quarters can be used whole for roasting, etc., or the hind-quater of mutton


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of mutton.]

can be divided by taking off, ham fashion or haunch fashion, as shown in leg of mutton on opposite page.

One of the most useful, it commands the highest price of any joint of the carcass. It is a choice part for boiling, soup, corned, etc., and when well hung it is best for a roast. The part left of the hind-quarter is called the loin of mutton,


View page [71]



[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of mutton.]

which is generally used for chops (sometimes called English chops), or for roasting, haricot, etc. The loin of mutton being one-half of the saddle, should also have the light tough skin taken off the back fat before use. The following anecdote was created by a gentleman who was carving this joint, when he said: "Shall I cut this loin of mutton saddle-wise?" "No," said his friend. "Cut it bridle-wise, for then we may have a chance to get a bit in our mouths."

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of mutton.]

The fore-wuarter of mutton, if small, not too fat, and cracked like lamb, or it has the shoulder-blade taken out, makes an excellent piece to roast,


View page [72]
or corned whole; but when wanted in pieces, the shoulder should be first taken off, which will appear as follows--


[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of mutton.]

used for roasting, soup, stewing, etc. A London paper of 1804 says: "Yesterday a journeyman blacksmith, of the name of Sattle, a noted gormandizer, undertook, for a trifling wager, to eat a shoulder of mutton of six pounds weight, with a proportionate quantity of vegetables, and a three-penny loaf, and to drink a quart of ale, at a public house in the neighborhood of Golden Lane. He was to perform the task in an hour; but he completed it in fifty minutes, and actually bespoke a supper of bread and bacon." We


[Illustration: An illustration of two numbered cuts of mutton.]




View page [73]
turn and chop off the neck of mutton from the breast, which is fit for a stew, haricot, etc., or from which are cut ribs singly (Fig. 1), the French cotelette, or rib chops (the one on the right, Fig. 2, is ready trimmed for use), which leaves the scrag end of the neck--a piece much used for broth for the sick; or the whole neck, cut up, is used for haricot, stew, pies, etc.

The breast--the lowest-priced joint of the carcass--is used for stewing, pies, etc. Other parts of the sheep are described under another head.

> LAMB.

Lamb is accepted by its name after it is slaughtered and dressed. The same terms and names apply to the similar named joints of mutton, by using the word lamb in place of mutton.

This young animal is usually known among butchers as lamb until it arrives at the age of about twelve months, when it is termed yearling, although at this period the yearling is often dressed "lamb fashion."

The size, fatness, condition, age, and sex are considered best in the order as follows:

1. Spring (or house) lamb (ewe),	from six weeks to three months old.
2. Spring lamb (buck)	" " " "
3. Wether lamb "	" three months to eight months old.
4. Ewe lamb "	" " " "
5. Wether lamb,	or yearling, eight months to twelve months old.
6. Ewe lamb,	" " "

The spring lamb, occasionally called house lamb, especially by some foreigners, it is presumed from the circumstance of its being born during the winter months, when its tender life, if not carefully housed, fed, and kept warm, would perish, remain dwarfish, or become sickly. Its flesh is prized for its unseasonable character, and, although delicate and tender, is quite insipid and no way nourishing.

View page [74]

The old-country fashion of preparing house lambs was, many years ago: "As soon as the lambs are born they are put into a warm outhouse. Some white peas and bran are mixed together and placed near them, with a little fine hay and a chalk-stone to lick. The dams are turned into good grass, and brought to their lambs four times a day. Every lamb is suffered to suck as much as it will. By this process they become extremely delicate." But in this country it usually lacks the pleasant flavor that grass imparts to the flesh.

Lamb occasionally is sold in our markets as early as the month of March; after which it slowly increases in size and numbers, and in the months of June, July, and August it is in full season, and of fine quality. When first brought to market lamb is not sold in less quantity than a quarter, its weight being seldom above five or six pounds. As it increases in size by age, and amply fed by the grass-fed ewe--aided by the warm sun--the lamb speedily increases in weight, the quarters from eight to twelve pounds each. Later in the season, the animal with age and forced feed, the quarters will weigh as much as twenty-five pounds.

To choose lamb, first examine the fat on the back and then that of the kidneys, both of which should be white, hard, and of the same color. Lambs are tender creatures. Rough handling, cold, stormy weather, kept without food, and being long driven, produce a feverish state, which causes the flesh and fat to be veiny and of a dark red color, and also renders it dry, tough, and tasteless.

The kidney fat of a fine (or inferior) lamb should not be raised, stuffed, or blowed; but merely its own caul or fat laid on its legs and flanks (see Fig.), to prevent them from drying or burning when roasting. Beware of two or three colors of fat found about the dressing of the hind-quarters, which in all probability is here appropriated from some other animal, which gives it a different flavor when cooked. This caution applies to all kinds of meat of blown or spongy appearance, this being frequently produced by human


View page [75]
breath. It is needless to observe that the breath of the human lungs (even from those of the most healthy and sweet condition), in this manner blown into meats, is neither calculated to add to its sweetness nor to render it palatable to delicately-educated people.

The carcass of lamb is first split down the centre of the back and neck into two sides, which are quartered by leaving two or three ribs on the following hind-quarters of the lamb.

[Illustration: An illustration of a cut of lamb.]

When large enough, and it is desired by the purchaser to be cut or divided, the leg is first cut off and prepared for roasting, boiling, or cut into chops, etc.

View page [76]

The loin of lamb is usually cut into chops, or cracked for roasting, etc.

The fore-quarter of lamb (see fore-quarter of mutton) is smaller than the same joint of mutton; the bones are of a more reddish color. The fore-leg is broken off immediately above the joint of the foot, at the point where the fore-foot or hooflock joint is cut from the mutton, which connects with the white joint bone. Some call it lamb as long as the foot breaks off with the hand at this place; this, however, often occurs in old sheep.

Small old sheep, very poor and thin in flesh, are often dressed up "lamb fashion" by irresponsible butchers and others, who sell it under the name of lamb, and many years ago such was known as "Staten Island Lamb." This meat is usually sold at exceedingly low prices.

By many the fore-quarter of lamb is preferred for the delicacy of the ribs and breast when roasted. Removing the blade-bone from the quarter greatly assists the carver. Separated from the shoulder, the neck and breast broiled make a choice dish.

Other parts of the lamb are found noticed under another head.

> PIGS, HOGS, AND PORK.

The young pig, termed "roasting-pig," is not changed in name, like the full-grown animal, by the fact of slaughtering. Living or dead, it is named a pig, a roaster, or a roasting-pig. When dressed for choice eating, it should not be less than three nor more than six weeks old. The skin of the roaster should be white (unless it has been a spotted or black-haired pig), plump, hard, and well cleaned. The flanks, where it is opened, should be thick and fat, and it ought to weigh from eight to fourteen pounds. Its season is best in the fall and winter months.

The half or full grown shoat, or hog, and its varieties,


View page [77]
when prepared for the stall, is changed to the name of pork. When living, and of different ages and sexes, they are known by several distinct names: those under one year are either called pigs, shoats, or porkers. If the female within one year have pigs, she is known as a "young sow," and no longer by the name of shoat, etc. When spayed, the animal is then known as a "spayed sow." Above one year, the male is named a "young boar;" when aged, an "old boar;" and, when altered, a "barrow," or "barrow-hog," or "hog;" and, when altered late or aged, it is called a "stag-hog." The female is similarly named "sow," "sow-hog," or "hog." These terms are mostly applied to the living animals.

Experience and information, in relation to the varieties which will produce the best pork, may be placed in the following order. The first are those which are fed with corn:

1. Barrow pigs or shoats, from three months to one year old.

2. Sow-pigs or shoats, from three months to six months old.

3. Barrow-pigs, etc. (milk and grass fed), from three months to one year old.

4. Sow-pigs, from three to four months old.

5. Barrow-hogs and spayed sows, when found over one year old, corn-fed, selected usually for bacon-hogs.

6. Sow-hogs, do., do., selected usually for bacon-hogs.

7. Stag-hog.

8. Boar-hog or boar--youngest best.

The general appearance of the most choice pork is from an animal the carcass of which will not weigh less than fifty and not more than one hundred and twenty pounds. The skin should present a semi-transparent appearance, approaching white in color; the fat on the back should not be less than half an inch thick, white and firm, and the lean of a pale reddish color, and sappy. The skin of the older animals, or bacon-hogs, is thicker and coarser, while the lean is of a darker color, but equally sweet, juicy, and tender.

Hogs selected for bacon, clear pork, hams, shoulders, back fat, or for salted or barrelling pork, are usually from


View page [78]
one hundred and fifty to five hundred pounds in weight--some, indeed, have weighed above one thousand two hundred pounds.

By many, fresh pork is considered to be exceedingly unwholesome during the months of the year of high temperature. This, no doubt, to a great extent, is true: the fatty, gross character of the flesh not being easily assimilated when the animal economy of the human system requires less heating nourishment to the blood, and therefore requires less irritating food to the digestive organs. The instincts of experience no doubt lessen the demand for fresh pork during the heat of the summer trade.

Animals procured from those who properly feed them (the food producing a great influence on the quality of the flesh) must prove good, sweet, and wholesome, although it may be soft; but if the animals are allowed to run at large, which is generally the case with shoats and hogs in the spring and summer, eating whatever they can pick up--their uncleanly character is too well known, both as to habit and the filth or animal substances they select for food--there can be no doubt that pork, from such animals, offers unfit and unwholesome food.

Shoats or hogs selected for slaughter, after they have been properly fed, are penned two or three months, first giving them swills, vegetables, or grain, which afterwards is increased in quality and quantity, such as Indian-corn, by which the character and quality of the flesh is much improved. The tenderness is also increased by the hanging of the carcass of the slaughtered animal for several days before being cut into the various pieces for use.

The carcass of pork, being intended for immediate use while in its fresh state, is hung by the foot of its right hind leg; then cut down, through the skin of the centre of the back, from the tail to the neck, followed with the splitting down of the backbone through the line of the incision, dividing it into halves or sides. These are again divided, after taking off the head, into quarters.

View page [79]

[Illustration: An illustration of an animal with numbered sections representing various cuts of pork.]

1. Leg of pork.	5. Flank of pork.
2. Loin of pork. }often cut	6. Hocks.
3. Chine of pork. }together.	7. Pig's-Head.
4. Brisket of pork.	8. Pig's feet.

The hind-quarter (represented in the preceding figure, including Nos. 1, 2, and 5) is first divided by taking off the leg of pork, which is generally used fresh for roasting, after having the boneneatly taken out and finely scored; but when intended for corning, it should be kept in pickle ten or twelve days before use.

The loin of pork being left, if not too fat, presents the finest piece for roasting; it should also be finely and evenly scored, as all pork ought to be when intended for roasting; the scoring should be a quarter of an inch in width, to prevent its blistering, and render the joint more readily carved. The loin also furnishes fine pork chops, and small delicate corning pieces.

The fore-quarter of pork, if small, is often roasted whole, after having the blade-bone removed; if large, it is divided across the ribs (see figure between 3 and 4), using the thin part, or brisket of pork, for corning, after taking off the hocks and feet.

The chine of pork (figure 3) is used for roasting, or the ribs are used for rib-chops, up as far as the blade-bone, and the remaining part for pork-steaks.

The carcass being very large and fat, and the lean portions


View page [80]
intended to be used fresh, the two following figures (furnished me by the kindness of the American Agriculturist) will assist this explanation, in the cutting of it up.

The figure 1 appears lying on a block or table. We must


[Illustration: An illustration of a hog with labelled sections representing various cuts of meat.]

first separate the head from the carcass; then split (or saw, if frozen) the carcass through the back-bone with a chopper. Each side will then appear as represented by the figure on opposite page. This done, with a sharp knife loosen the leaf and kidney fat (near the letters N and K,


View page [81]
figure 2), and tear it away towards the leg, or fresh ham; the kidney is brought away with it. Each side is then divided into its fore and hind quarters, by leaving two ribs on each of the latter. The next cut loosens the tenderloin


[Illustration: A cross-section of the internal structures of a hog.]

from where it is connected with the fresh ham, when it is torn out upwards towards the ribs or head. The fresh hams are then removed, beginning at the tail-side, and cut circularly to the flank (figure 1, C), after sawing the small bone about half-way, and chopping or sawing off the feet (figure 1, I, I).

Next, cut the brisket of pork off (see first figure, No. 4, p. 79), which is usually corned; the chine piece turn


View page [82]
over, that the thick clear fat (fig. 2, 0) can be easily cut off close to the lean. This fat is usually salted, and is known as back fat; it is used for various purposes in cookery, and also by many butchers in the dressing of calves. Sometimes a very thin slice will be observed on a fat-appearing loin of veal--this deceit is called plating, although, in fact, it may be considered an addition to the veal, by aiding its cooking and its flavor; it is usually done, however, with the intention of hiding the uncovered kidney of a poor young veal, which too often is not fit to be eaten.

[Illustration: An illustration of an animal with numbered sections representing various cuts of pork.]

1. Leg, or fresh ham.	7. Flank
2. Shoulder (after being trimmed).	8. Tail-piece.
3. Chops or cheeks.	9. Neck-piece.
4,4. Loin-pieces.	10. Pate or skull.
5,5. Rib, or chine-pieces.	11. Feet.
6. Brisket.

[Editorial note: The above table was originally placed as a caption to the illustration of an animal with numbered sections representing various cuts of pork.]

The chine of pork, without the back fat, is much used for chops, steaks, or roasting: while some prefer this part (after taking out all the bones) for sausage-meat.

The back-fat, on the loin, is also taken off in the same manner, when the loin is prepared for either chops or roasting.

This kind of pork is now usually preferred, instead of the small quarters, or that which has the skin usually left on it; the flesh being considered more luscious from having been better fed and cared for, while it is leaner and thicker.

View page [83]

The hog intended for bacon is always large and fat, especially that intended for English and "Irish-singed bacon;" these, however, will be found noticed under the proper head of bacon.

The figure of the hog on the preceding page represents by the numbers the mode of cutting the carcass for barreling.

The same mode of cutting is adapted by separating the head from the carcass, then splitting the carcass, cutting off the fresh hams and feet, tearing out the leaf and kidney fat, taking out the tenderloin--as previously shown. Then the head (Nos. 10 and 3) is divided by cutting off the cheeks, beginning from the corner of the mouth, following the line towards No. 9 (see fig. 1, A, B.) and saw off the jaw-bone, which separates the cheeks from the pate; then crack the bone of the under jaw, between the front teeth, and the cheeks are held together to hang up by. Next take off the shoulder by cutting straight across the side, as shown fig. 1 (B); then trim off the spare-ribs, by cutting under the breast-bone, and so follow the ribs as far as the chine-bone, when the knife is continued on directly to the end of the long bones in the back, which leaves the shoulder about one thickness, and the spare-ribs (not too spare), with meat enough left on under them to make a roast. Then trim the shoulder round (see No. 2), saw off the feet, which forms the shoulder similar to a ham. The brisket and flanks are now cut off; the ribs (5, 5) and loin (4, 4) pieces are cut in suitable sizes, when all are ready to salt, except that the trimmings and some other pieces can be used for sausages. The leaf-fat and pieces of fat, rendered into lard; and the pate, etc. for head-cheese.

The pork tenderloins, when cut out of pork, are usually sold separately at a higher price than the other parts. Their ordinary weight is from half to one pound each. Many consider them the choicest part of the pork; but, as already observed, they are usually found tender, but dry and tasteless.

View page [84]

Measly pork.--The flesh of the hog, with this disease, when slaughtered, is exceedingly unwholesome, and is not fit to be used for any purpose. It may be known by the many yellowish lumps or kernels seen through the fat and lean, as well as the flesh having a heavy, dull appearance.

> GOAT'S FLESH.

These animals are sometimes found in our markets dressed for sale, but their flesh is considered inferior to that of mutton. Although that from a young wether goat or kid is very tender and sweet, but has not so agreeable a flavor as mutton or lamb, nor is it so easily digested--the flavor partaking the character of venison.

A very fine, fat goat, killed after the fashion of the Jews, by Bernheim & Sons, Jefferson Market, May 9, 1856, weighed, when alive, ninety-six pounds, and after being dressed, including the head and haslet, weighed sixty-four pounds, exclusive of sixteen pounds of rough fat.

The flesh had much the appearance of stag or ram mutton, the fat being of a reddish color, soft and oily; the lean was dark in color, but juicy and tender. Those who partook of it were well satisfied, though no doubt the flavor


View page [85]
would have been much improved had a few days longer keeping of the carcass been allowed by the Jewish laws--the Jews not being permitted to eat flesh killed over three days, without it goes through a cleansing process by a shoket, or unless none other is to be had.

[Editorial note: The following footnote was placed in the originaly text at the bottom of page 84.]

NOTE--Some curious market laws of the Island of Antigun, West India Islands, are found noticed in the New Haven Gazette, October 26, 1786, which parts of, refer to the pig and hog. One of which says:

"Be it enacted, that all choate (pigs) exceeding nine pounds a quarter, be esteemed hog, and so sold, and that no flesh be esteemed veal, except the clerk of the market really approve it as such.

"And, whereas, the office of clerk of the market is very troublesome and of small advantage; be it therefore enacted, that the offices of "common crier,' and 'common whipper,' in the respective towns of this island, be added thereto, with all the foes, perquisites, and advantages belonging, or which shall belong to the same.

"And be it enacted, for the encouragement of poor people, who for the most part do raise stock to supply the markets of this island, all rumps, sirloins, and buttocks of beef, be esteemed choice pieces, and sold at eight pence per pound."

> THE PARTS WE USE FROM DOMESTIC ANIMALS.

There are many choice dishes prepared from various parts of the domestic animals used for food, which in former times were either sold for a mere trifle or thrown away. The increase of domestic animals has, by no means, been pro-rata with the rapid and vast increase of our population, hence prices have increased to double what they were in the "olden time;" the consequence of which is, we find, a gradual increased demand for such portions of the animal as were once altogether refused, or considered unfit to be eaten, or too troublesome to repay for the time consumed in preparing them into proper food. These considerations--of high prices, professional cooks, or "artists"--with cookery books and foreign cookery notions, have introduced a system of knowledge as to the preparation of excellent and cheap dishes from the various and numerous parts of the domestic animals.

In presenting these remarks to notice, I ask attention particularly to the choosing and judging which are the best, with the general uses of the different parts which follow, commencing with those taken from

> NEAT CATTLE.

Beeves' tongue. This part of the animal has always been considered a delicacy. When purchasing, choose those which are thick, firm, and with plenty of fat on the under side. They are used, when fresh, for mince pies, stews, etc., and, when pickled or smoked, for boiling, and,


View page [86]
when cold, are excellent eating. In the living animal's mouth, the tongue is very rough, being almost a compact bed of spines, which nature has furnished to draw the grass or other food into the mouth, as well as to scratch or lick its body; these spines, however, come off of the tongue with the skin when boiled.

Beeves' liver. The best liver presents a clear, bright, yellowish-red color, although that which is of a clear, dark color is good; and mashing easily under the pressure of the finger, is a sure sign of tenderness. But those affected with dark, "sedgy" streaks, sandy spots and abscesses, are unwholesome and unfit to be eaten. These are known as "sedgy livers," which, no doubt, is caused by the animal drinking from the Western pools of water and swallowing a small leech, or bloodsucker, as boys used to call them. I have frequently taken them from the liver in a perfect state, and again, on an examination, I have found these leeches filled with blood, and a gritty substance like sand; others, again, present their contents as if in a dissolving condition, which we find in darkish streaks scattered through the substance of the liver. When in the course of the natural healing of these parts, we find numerous sinewy, tough, light streaks, or scars, through them, which would always remain, like the healing up of an old sore.

Thirty or forty years ago, almost all our Western cattle would have these bad livers, when they were compelled to be driven on foot through to our (New York) city; but since the rail-cars, steamboats, etc., have carried them, we do not so often find bad livers.

A remarkably fine, large liver was sold in Jefferson Market, in December, 1860, taken from a small, Kentucky heifer. It was very yellow, tender, and fine, and weighed twenty-eight and one-half pounds. The cause of this being so large--from so small an animal--was conjectured to be, that the animal had been fed upon hot or cooked food, and kept in a very warm place. The distillery, or "swill-fed" cows generally have large, handsome livers, but not well-flavored.

View page [87]

Beeves' heart. Those with a large quantity of nice, clear fat around the top part are the best. They are usually stuffed and roasted, or stewed, and make a good, wholesome, and nutritious meal, and one of the cheapest in the animal.

Beeves' kidney. There are two kidneys in each animal; the best are without dark spots, or water bladders, but of a clear, dark, reddish color. Used for stewing, broiling, etc.

Beeves' suet. This untried fat is taken from around the kidney, and is much drier, shorter, more tender, and firmer than the common meat or flesh fat. It should also be white, clear (not bloody), and easily break or crumble into very small pieces; it is much used in mince pies, puddings, candles, etc.

Beeves' gut fat is much like suet, but has more fibre through it. The Jews use this in cooking in the place of lard, which, by their laws, they discard; but it must be from animals slaughtered and regularly sealed by their shoket, or Jew butcher.

Some people imagine that beeves' fat or suet is the same as tallow, and I once read of a case where a tallow-chandler by the name of Webb charged a prisoner with stealing his tallow (instead of fat). The prisoner having no counsel, the judge became his advocate, and asked the prosecutor:

Judge.--"How do you know, Webb, that you lost just-eighty-nine pounds of tallow?"

Webb.--"I am sure of it, my lord."

Judge.--"I want to be sure of it, too. Do you keep an account of what you receive or what you use?"

Webb.--"No, my lord."

Judge.--"What, no book in which you minute down your goods?"

Webb.--"Yes, my lord, I keep a day-book."

Judge.--"Well, that is what I wanted: and did you, in this book, make an entry of the tallow received, or taken from it, for the purpose of making candles?"

Webb.--"No, my lord, for it was not fit to make candles of."

View page [88]

Judge.--"Why, then, man, it was not tallow."

Webb.--"Yes it was, my lord."

Judge.--"Then why not fit to make candles?"

Webb.--"Because, my lord, it was run into tallow."

Judge.--"Not run into tallow?"

Webb.--"No, my lord."

Judge.--Why, then, it must be fat, and not tallow."

Webb.--"Yes, my lord."

Judge.-"Ah! that's very well. Gentlemen of the Jury: You find, by the prosecutor's own evidence, that you must acquit the prisoner. This man charges the prisoner with stealing tallow. The prosecutor is a tallow-chandler, and yet you hear from his own mouth that he does not know the difference between tallow and fat."

The prisoner was acquitted.

Beeves' or cows' udder. An udder from a young, dry cow, when nicely corned and boiled, is very good eating. Some parboil and roast it.

Beeves' head. From the sides of the head the ox-cheek is cut, which makes an excellent soup: or, the head is broken or cracked with an axe, the brains taken out and then boiled, so that the meat can be taken off easily from the bones. For making mince pies, meat puddings, etc.

The Germans cut off the nose, and prepare a dish called ox mow. It is sawed off through the nostril bones, leaving on the grisly skin, then boiled until all the bones can be removed easily, when it is usually fried or soused, etc. Said to be good eating.

Beeves' or ox marrow is taken from the marrow bones, principally from the hind-quarter. It should smell sweet, look clear, and be of quite a straw-color. Sold by the pound, and used for pomatums and cookery.

Marrow bones. These are cut from three to five inches long, and, when for the table, should be quite fresh. Either for roasting or boiled, after being covered with a floured cloth; to be used on toast instead of butter, etc.

Tripe. This article of food is always found cleaned,


View page [89]
and generally boiled ready for use. In selecting tripe, choose that which is white, thick, and fat. Many prefer the part called the night-cap or honeycomb; others again the thick seam; and some again the thin part. In the spring and summer seasons it is apt to have a greenish look on the inner side, in consequence of the animal feeding on grass. However, when dark and quite thin, it is either from eating or drinking distillery swill, or is from an animal diseased, and becomes dangerous food.

Ox tails. The word ox is more particularly used with this article. These are seldom found ready for sale, but when ordered are furnished by the "help." They are generally sold attached to the hides. An excellent and savory soup is made from them. Three tails will make a common tureen of soup. Prior to 1685 the butchers of London, in disposing of the bullocks' hides to the felt-mongers, were accustomed to leave on the tails. The French refugees, however, bought them up, and introduced into use that nutritive dish called "ox-tail soup."

Sweet breads and skirts. These were known many years ago by many of the poor inhabitants near slaughter-houses. They consisted of two strips of thin, skinny meat attached to the ribs and plate-pieces. These were cut out, and, with the (coarse) sweet-breads (more particularly noticed under the head of "Sweet-Breads from Calves"), were tied in a bunch with a rope-yarn, and generally sold from the slaughter-houses. These were a part of the perquisites given to apprentice boys above twenty years ago; but since that time the perquisite system has been changed, and in lieu more wages are paid.

Beeves' palates. These palates, which lay at the roof of the mouth, I have lately learned through "one of the great generals of the age" (Scott), who had enjoyed the eating of them prepared at the South, and who pronounced them excellent eating.

Ox feet, or cow heels. These are principally used by foreigners in making fricassee, stews, bake, jellies, etc.,


View page [90]
after having been scalded and dressed as the calves' feet. They require five or six hours' boiling.
The fat skimmings of ox feet or cow heels is called "neat's foot oil."

Beeves' brains. These are used in many of the dishes, as those prepared from calves' or sheep's brains, but are not so delicate.

Beeves' or ox gall. These greenish bladders, or the contents, are used for various purposes, such as cleaning cloths, carpets, removing oil-stains, for liniments, salves, and also the mixing of paints. Buy it in the original bladder; and that which is quite thick, of a darkish green, and feels like glue, is the oldest and best. When scarce and in demand, some boys, to enlarge their perquisites as well as the size of the gall, adopt the plan of a dishonest milkman.

Ox eyes. These are called for sometimes by the medical student for examination and study; and I have known them to have been prepared in sauces for the table.

Ox or cows' teeth. Thirty years ago the teeth from an old ox or cow, when about half worn out, were used by dentists. In that state they are tough and solid. Many a set, cut off with a small piece of the jaw, have I sold for twenty-five and fifty cents, within the above time, to one whose reputation has always stood at the head of his profession (Dr. Eleazer Parmly), then residing at No. 11 Park Place, mineral teeth being then unknown.

Beeves' casins. When the animal is slaughtered the small gut is stripped for the sausage-maker. They clean and prepare them, when they are then known as beeves' casins. Those from lambs and hogs are also used. Another part is called bung-gut, the largest portion and an end of the larger intestines, which is generally used, when cleaned, for head-cheese.

Cattle's feet. These are usually sold by the butchers for one year (from "new-year" to "new-year" again). The present price (1858) is about six dollars per hundred feet. Their principal use is in making glue, and the bones and hoofs are afterwards used in making buttons and Prussian


View page [91]
blue. Mr. Peter Cooper is the heaviest purchaser for the last forty years, and has them gathered daily from the slaughter-houses in our city.

Bones. Those which are daily collected by being taken from the various parts of the different animals when cut up, and from "cracking" or taking off shanks. Blade, socket, chine, and other bones, are collected together and sold, usually by the boys (as a perquisite), to the bone-gatherers at about forty cents per bushel. Some of them are used by the turners for handles, buttons--some for bone-black, etc., after they have been well boiled, that the marrow and fat may all be extracted.

> FROM CALVES.

Sweet breads. These, no doubt, are the greatest delicacy of the meat kind. There are but two in a calf, one from the neck or throat, called "throat sweet-bread;" the other from or near the heart, which is known as the "heart sweet-bread." The largest are the best, and the latter, or heart sweet-bread, the most delicate. Their color should be clear, and a shade darker than the fat of the same animal.

Calves' heads. These are usually found with hair scalded and shaved cleanly off, and, when fresh, the eyes have a bright, full look, while the skin seems firmly fastened to the head. There should also be a prominent rise or appearance of the young horn, to denote that the animal was old enough. If the head should be small and no signs of horns, it shows that the animal was too young to be wholesome food. Never purchase either calves' head or feet if they have a yellowish look, or a slippery or slimy feeling. The nose (yours) will detect a bad smell in the brains, more particularly when the head is cracked or split open. The head makes the mock-turtle soup, or a plain boil, etc. The head is sometimes found skinned, when it is not so valuable, or only fit for a plain soup or boil, etc.

View page [92]

Calves' feet.--Although these and the preceding are usually sold together, yet their uses are generally different. Very small feet are not generally good, in consequence of the risk that they are from too young a calf. Their uses are principally for the excellent jelly, or they are cooked in with the head.

Calves' tongues are sometimes taken out and used separately for stewing, or salted, boiled, pickled, etc.

Calves' brains.--With some preparation, very nice, delicate sauces and other dishes are made, but it requires the skill of a cook. They are taken out when the calf's head is cracked open.

Calves' eyes are also used separately by many foreigners, in sauces, etc.

Calves' haslet.--This comprises the heart, liver, and lights (sometimes also the melt), connected together; but when separated they appear with the names of calves' liver, calves' heart, and calves' lights. This liver is the best of all the animal livers, and I do not except the famous paté de fois or goose liver. Both the heart and liver are used for frying, boiling, roasting, etc., but when for a hash, the lights can be used.

Calves' kidneys.--These are usually found in the loins of veal, but are sometimes taken out and sold separately. They are the best of all kidneys.

Calves' entrails and fat or chitterlings. --This part of the calf, prepared by the Germans and French, is made into an excellent dish, which I have eaten with a good relish. They are taken from the calf while warm, then the entire gut is slit or cut open, well cleaned and soaked, and they are ready for use.

Calves' melt. --This small, dark piece, attached to the lights, is seldom used in this country, but it is said to make a very good dish when prepared by the English cook. I give one receipt for cooking it: After soaking three or four hours in a little salt and water, and also a little vinegar, wipe dry, pepper it well, and boil it.

View page [93]

> FROM SHEEP AND LAMBS.

Lambs' frys and sweet-breads are generally found in our markets in the spring and summer months, on dishes, nicely cleaned, and prepared ready for use. Some sprinkle a little parsley to decorate them. They are considered, and certainly are, delicious eating, known as mountain oysters.

Lambs' and sheeps' tongues.--These can be had, fresh or salted, from the boys, being one of their perquisites. They generally want some trimming before they are ready for use. These small pickled tongues are an excellent lunch when nicely prepared. The best are from the lambs.

Lambs' and sheeps' haslet, or pluck.--These consist of the heart, liver, and lights of the lamb or sheep. Sold at low prices. The lamb's haslet is better flavored, more tender, and not so dry eating as the sheep's. In some parts of England the name pluck designates only the lights, or lungs, and thirty years ago it was a common name for all haslets in New York.

Lambs' and sheep's kidneys.--A great many kidneys are taken out of the loin suet, and are sold and used separately. The French are particularly fond of them. Used for stews, broils, etc. Those from lambs are the best.

Lambs' and sheep's heads.--Many foreigners use them, after having the brains and tongue taken out, the wool or hair singed or shaved off, which leaves a considerable quantity of flesh on the head. They make an excellent broth, for a very small sum and little trouble. The "Tup's Head Dinner," about Michaelmas, was once held in high repute.

Lambs' and sheep's brains and eyes.--The brains are the most called for, and are used in sauces and other delicate dishes. The eyes are sometimes used with them: occasionally they are used for study by the student.

Sheep's suet.--A great deal of this suet is used in making salves for chapped hands, etc.

View page [94]

Lambs' or sheep's trotters. --Prepared like calves' feet, then soaked in water until quite white, when they are ready for use. They are best stewed.

Lambs' or sheep's melt. --Prepared in the same manner as the calves' melt, but not quite so good eating.

Lambs' guts or casins are cleaned and prepared by the sausage-makers to fill for sausages. Those that you find of the small size are the caseins from the lambs. The sheep caseins cannot be used here for that purpose; but I am informed by Professor Thurber that they are used in South America: after having been cleaned they are rolled up into a ball and roasted in the earth, and he found them good eating.

Sheep's paunch, or stomach.--An excellent dish is made of this article by the Scotch, called "Scotch haggis." The following was furnished to me by Mrs. John Duncan:

"Procure the large stomach-bag (paunch) of a sheep, also one of the smaller bags, called the king's hood, together with the pluck, which is the lights, the liver, and the heart.

"The bags must be well washed, first in cold water, then plunged in boiling water, and scraped. Great care must be taken of the large bag; let it lie and soak in cold water, with a little salt, all night. Wash also the pluck. You will now boil the small bag along with the pluck; in boiling leave the windpipe attached, and let the end of it hang over the edge of the pot, so that impurities may pass freely out. Boil for an hour and a half, and take the whole from the pot. When cold, cut away the windpipe, and any bits of skin or gristle that seem improper. Grate the quarter of the liver (not using the remainder of the haggis), and mince the heart, lights, and small bag very small, along with half a pound of beef suet. Mix all this mince with two small teacupfuls of oatmeal--previously dried before the fire--black and Jamaica pepper and salt; also add half a pint of the liquor in which the pluck was boiled, or beef gravy. Stir all together into a consistency. Then take the large bag, which has been thoroughly cleaned, and put the mince


View page [95]
into it. Fill it only a little more than half full, in order to leave room for the meal and meat to expand. If crammed too full it will burst in boiling. Sew up the bag with a needle and thread. The haggis is now complete. Put it in a pot with boiling water, and prick it occasionally with a large needle, as it swells, to allow the air to escape. If the bag appears thin, tie a cloth outside the skin. There should be a plate placed beneath it to prevent its sticking to the bottom of the pot. Boil it for three hours. It is served on a dish without garnish, and requires no gravy, as it is sufficiently rich in itself."

Another way. Procure a good thick sheep's paunch, without holes or thin parts, and have it well cleaned. Clean a sheep's pluck, or haslet, thoroughly, make incisions in the heart and liver to allow the blood to flow out, and parboil the whole, letting the windpipe lie over the side of the pot to permit the phlegm and blood to disgorge from the lungs: the water may be changed after a few minutes' boiling for fresh water. A half hour's boiling will be sufficient; but throw back the half of the liver, to boil until it will grate easily; take the heart, the half of the liver, and part of the lights, trimming away all skins and black-looking parts, and mince them together. Mince also a pound of good beef suet, and four or more onions. Grate the other half of the liver. Half a dozen of small onions, peeled and scalded in two waters, to mix with this mince. Have ready some finely-ground oatmeal, toasted slowly before the fire for four hours, till it is of a light brown color and perfectly dry. Less than two teacupfuls of meal will do for this quantity of meat. Spread the mince on a board and strew the meal lightly over it, with a high seasoning of pepper, salt, and a little cayenne, first well mixed. Put in the meat with a half-pint of good beef gravy, or as much strong broth as will make it a very thick stew. Be careful not to fill the bag too full, but allow the meat room to swell; add the juice of a lemon, or a little good vinegar; press out the air and sew up the bag; prick it with a large needle when it first swells in the


View page [96]
pot, to prevent bursting; let it boil slowly for three hours, if large.

> FROM SHOATS AND HOGS.

Pig's head and tongue are applied to many uses. Some are sold either fresh for roasting, head-cheese, etc., or corned, for a plain boil; others have their chops or cheeks taken off, salted and smoked, with or without the tongue and the balance.

Pig's pate, or skull, is either made into head-cheese, fresh, or plain boiled when corned and salted, after having been properly cracked and cleansed.

Pig's tongue.--This is excellent eating when prepared as the sheep's tongue. There are a few persons who use them fresh.

Pig's hocks.--The top part of the fore-leg, from the knee up to the shoulder, is usually called the hock. In very small animals the foot is left with it, and sold together as pig's feet. The hocks are generally corned or salted for boiling, etc.

Pig's ears are sometimes used for a boil or souse, or put in head-cheese.

Pig's feet.--A great many are sold in the fresh state, for stewing, boiling, or sousing, but are usually preferred corned for the latter purpose or a plain boil. They should be well cleaned of hair, and the hoofs taken off.

Pig's kidneys.--Very good dishes are made from these kidneys, especially from the shoats, either stewed, fricasseed, fried, or broiled.

Pig's haslets.--These are seldom found in our markets. They are generally sold at the slaughter-houses, or made into meat-puddings, etc. This is one of the poorest domestic animal's haslets or livers.

Leaf-fat, or leaf-lard.--The fat taken from the inside, which adheres to the ribs and belly, is called leaf-fat. In this untried state it is used for many purposes in cookery.

View page [97]

> MEATS USED AS CORNED, SALTED, SMOKED, AND OTHERWISE PREPARED, ETC.

There are so many different ways of corning, salting, or curing, and other preparations of meat, that a person might question all those they may meet engaged in it--"How do you cure or prepare (certain) meats? Their answers would seldom be two alike; and each would recommend his receipt as the best. Many have also a little variation in the manner of cutting up the various animals in their different joints, and also in the preparation of their flesh.

Some of the Western packers use nearly the whole animal to "barrel." Some, again, put certain of the choice pieces together, and the other qualities divided, making sometimes three or four grades, with names to correspond. But our public-market butchers, and those who deal in prepared meats, select certain pieces from the various animals for their different and numerous uses, some of which I have noticed elsewhere.

Time for salting meat. --Meat should be salted in cool weather, as soon as it shall stiffen or become rigid. If in warm or hot weather, the animal should be killed in the afternoon, and the next morning salted, and placed in an ice-house. If in freezing weather, it should be salted before freezing, as I have known frozen beef to lay in strong pickle two weeks, and then salted only on the surface--the inside being still frozen and fresh.

Corned and salted beef.--The pieces generally used for this purpose are the plate, navel, brisket, top of sirloin, etc., which have the fat mixed through them. Many, however, prefer the rumps, sockets (or face-rump), edge-bones, and rounds, on account of their leanness and the delicacy of the outside fat. The kernels, or pope's-eye, in the rounds (centre-fat), flanks, necks, and shoulder-clods, if to be corned or salted, or even kept for any length of time, should be extracted, as it is the first part or thing to spoil.

View page [98]

Jerked beef. --This name was early given to the following process of curing beef: first, all the bones are taken out; then the flesh is cut into sheets, or thin pieces, put into a strong pickle, or rubbed with dry salt, and packed away for two or three days, when it is thoroughly salted; then spread out in the sun to dry hard, gathered together, and dry packed in boxes of two and three hundred pounds each, and generally sent to some of the West India islands.

About the year 1825, there were large quantities put up in this city, made from all the low-priced fleshy animals, such as bulls, stags, and any coarse, thin cattle that had the least flesh on their bones, with sometimes the coarse parts of other beef-cattle. I recollect one instance, about this time, of having to assist in slaughtering one hundred bulls, that were bought and sent in one drove to my employer for this purpose. It was the principal source of disposing of the poor, often diseased, and the unmarketable fleshy cattle, the flesh of which could not be sold in our public markets, in consequence of the stringency of the market laws. The making of jerked beef, in large quantities, continued until about fifteen years ago (1840), when I believe it failed to be profitable.

Corned mutton.--The legs, chine, and shoulders, are sometimes corned, and are excellent eating when boiled.

Corned and salted pork.--For family use, the carcass is cut up for salting, or parts are reserved fresh for sausages, steaks, etc. For market purposes, the loin and chine, or shoulder and ribs, of shoats are usually kept fresh, and the legs, brisket, and flanks for the above purpose; if the animal is quite small, the loins and chine are also used. If the hogs are large and fat, the back-fat is taken off clear and salted; when cured it is used for various purposes. When the rib-bones are taken out of the thick side-pork, it is generally called "clear pork;" this is also corned or salted. The brisket of pork is usually the part which takes in the leg-half of the shoulder. The brisket and flank together are an excellent piece when corned.

View page [99]

Cured and smoked meats. --In beef, three pieces are taken from the buttock (for particulars see buttock)--the inside, outside, and veiny pieces. These are generally used for smoking after having been salted from three to four weeks.
The plates, navels, briskets, and tongues (see tongues), are also excellent, when prepared in the above manner, to boil with greens.

In mutton, the legs are sometimes cured and smoked, but seldom thus prepared in our cities, as the demand for these parts is greater than for any others.

In pork: the hams, bacon, shoulders, chops or cheeks; and the prepared meats--bologna and smoked sausages, etc. The best hams, whether corned or cured and smoked, are from eight to fourteen pounds weight, having a thin skin, fat solid (white, if corned), and a small, short, tapering leg or shank. Try with a skewer (if buying of a stranger), running from the flesh-side towards the shank; the skewer, when drawn, should smell sweet and agreeable.

Bacon. --The part of the shoat or hog commonly used here for bacon is the thin part of the ribs and belly, salted, and either dried or slightly smoked; some also use spices, sugar, etc. If it be not too thick and fat, it is generally preferred.
The regular bacon of England, however, is differently prepared; and there it is usually called "flitch of bacon," when cured in the following manner. The hog having been slaughtered, instead of scalding the hair off, it is burned off with straw, then shaven clean with cold water, and dressed. When cooled through, it is divided, the hams and head taken off, and the bloody veins carefully removed. The spare-ribs and other bones are then taken out, and the whole covered with fine salt and a small quantity of salt-petre, with also a little brown sugar, which gives a pleasant flavor to the bacon. The flitches are laid down upon one another and re-salted daily, when the top one is put under, for about three weeks. They are then hung up to dry, or very slightly and slowly smoked.
The Irish singed bacon


View page [100]
is cured here, by some of our large packers, in pretty much the same manner.

A curious custom originated at a very early period, of presenting a flitch of bacon to all married couples upon certain conditions, which are fully explained in the following. The New York Gazette and Post Boy, September 30, 1751, shows that, "On the 20th of last month (June), John Shakeshanks, wool-comber, and Anne his wife, of the parish of Weathersfield, in Essex, appeared at the customary court of the manor of Dunmow-park, in that county, and claimed the bacon, according to the custom of that manor, which was delivered to them with the usual formalities--this is the only claim that has been made since the year 1701."

"The famous old story is as follows, viz.: one Robert Fitzwalter, a powerful baron in this country, in the reign of Henry III., instituted a custom in the priory there, that, 'Whatever married man did not repent of being married, or differ and dispute with his wife, within a year and a day after his marriage, if he and his wife would swear to the truth of it, kneeling upon two stones in the priory church-yard, set up for that purpose, in presence of the prior and convent, should have a gammon of bacon.' This custom is still kept up, notwithstanding the dissolution of the monasteries, only instead of the prior and convent, the business is now transacted at a court-baron, held before the steward of the lord of the manor. It may be some amusement to our readers to see the words of the oath on this occasion, which are to the following purpose, viz.:

"You do swear by custom of confession,

That you ne'er made nuptial transgression;

Nor since you were married man and wife,

By household brawls, or contentious strife,

Or otherwise, in bed or at board,

Offended each other in deed or in word;

Or in a twelvemonth's time and a day,

Repented not in thought any way;

Or since the church-clerk said Amen,

View page [101]

Wished yourselves unmarried again,

But continue true, and in desire,

As when you joined hands in holy choir."

The sentence pronounced for their receiving the bacon is in words to the effect following, viz.:

"Since to the conditions, without any fear,

Of your own accord you do freely swear,

A whole gammon of bacon you do receive,

And bear it away with love and good leave,

For this is the custom of Dunmow well-known;

Tho' the pleasure be ours, the bacon's your own."

Then, twenty-six years afterwards, the New York Journal, of 1767, notices the flitch of bacon claimed again. Among the London news, dated June 9th, was--"A certain Irish nobleman and his lady went last Thursday to Dunmow, in Essex, in order to claim the flitch of bacon, which, according to the custom of the manor, is given to those who swear that they repented not of their marriage within a year and a day after the celebration thereof. This is the first time that persons of their rank have laid claim to it." The same paper, a few years after--"We have an account from Dunmow, in Essex, that there were computed to be five thousand people there from all parts to see the ceremony of delivering the bacon to the couple who had not repented of their marriage. The man was examined by a jury of men, and the woman by a jury of women: she declared that she never repented but once, and that was, that she had not married sooner. We have it from undoubted authority that the happy couple made upwards of fifty pounds by selling slices of it to several gentlemen and ladies present, who were whimsically merry on the occasion."

Shoulders.--The same process of curing hams will also apply to shoulders; and when purchasing either--in a cured state--should they have a white or dried salt appearance over them, you may conclude they will be very salt, and of course a great deal of the sweetness extracted by having been kept


View page [102]
in a strong, harsh pickle a long time; or they have been cured by those who do not understand the business. To be good, they should be bright, clean, and firm.

Cheeks or Chops. --These are cured with the hams and shoulders, and are very fine when boiled with greens in the spring of the year. Select those which have the most flesh on.

Bologna Sausages. --There are many receipts for making these fine sausages, of which there appears to be two different kinds--the fresh bologna and dried bologna sausages.

Fresh bologna sausages are prepared usually for immediate use. They are sometimes made of fresh lean beef and pork, having all the fat and sinews extracted and finely chopped; after which, thin strips of cured back fat are interspersed through, and nicely seasoned. This is forced into cleansed beef casins of different lengths. Smoked (say one night), and boiled, or rather simmered, from one to two hours. When pork is high it is sometimes left out, but retaining the back fat to relieve the lean look, and also to add to their flavor. The other kind,

Dried bologna sausages, are made for long keeping. They are prepared with salt pork or ham, with the lean fresh beef, and more highly seasoned; instead of being smoked, they are hung up and dried. But otherwise prepared as the fresh bolognas.

Rolliches (from the Dutch word rolletje). --This peculiar meat preparation was once a famous dish among the ancient Dutch settlers of New Amsterdam, and although the making of it has almost been discontinued in our (New York) State, yet there are many old families in New Jersey and other places, who continue on from year to year, in preparing this as one of their principal dishes, to be used throughout the winter months, especially where fresh meat is only occasionally to be procured. It is found to be a wholesome article of food when properly prepared, and for the following receipt I am indebted to Mrs. Ann Hill, who


View page [103]
has prepared and assisted in its preparation for about twenty years. She says: "Take the fresh, uncooked, but well-cleaned tripe, cut it into eight or ten as near square pieces as possible; then cut up the flanks and tops of sirloin pieces of beef, in strips, about as large as a good-sized finger, and lay them so as fat and lean will mix throughout, and enough to fill each piece of the tripe; pepper and salt should be well sprinkled between each layer of meat (some also add herbs to give peculiar flavors); then sew them up tightly and put them into a large pot, and boil slowly, until a broom-wisk or rye-straw can be pushed into them without breaking; they are then taken out, put under a weight, and left so all night; next morning the fat is skimmed off from the liquor, when the rolliches are put into a tight tub or pot, and a mixture of half vinegar and half pot-liquor is poured over, and enough to cover them; then a weight placed on top to keep them under. When wanted, one or more is taken out, cut up into thin slices, and warmed up in the liquor in a frying-pan, when they are found to be excellent eating."

They are occasionally found in our markets, having been brought in by the Jersey Dutchmen, who sold them in ordinary times for about twenty-five cents per pound.

Lard. --Among the many preparations made, no doubt lard is one of the most important in the culinary art. The fat cut from the various parts of the hog--consisting of the leaf fat and the meat fat--is cut into very small pieces, then boiled until quite rendered, that the pieces begin to look quite brown, when it is taken out, and the pieces or scraps heavily pressed. The melted fat, after having passed through a strainer into pots, etc., becomes lard when cool. The best should be white, without a disagreeable smell.

Sausages. --The best sausages are prepared altogether from pork, chopped small, seasoned, and run or stuffed into casins. Those made in the city are usually quite small in size, as the meat is run into the lamb casins.

Country sausages.--Those sausages usually made in


View page [104]
the neighboring country towns are prepared in the same way, but run into beeves' or hogs' casins. Some of the latter are cleanly and well made, and some again are almost as dangerous as some of our city sausages.
One plan of deceit is to add a large percentage of water in mixing the meat; some will add one-eighth or more before it is pressed into the casins, which gives them a very moist, soft, and flabby appearance, while good sausages are firm, and also quite dry on the outside.
There is danger, also, in the kind and quality of the flesh which some use, it being almost impossible to tell, from outward appearance, of what animal or in what condition the flesh was, when hid in those skins; and the only protection for the buyer is to purchase of those dealers who are certainly known to you, or else to buy the meat and prepare it yourself.

Sausage meat. --This meat is prepared as that for sausages, but not put into casins, and, of course, more open for inspection. Both this and sausages are excellent eating when you feel satisfied that they have been cleanly and properly made; if not, you had better have nothing to do with them. In fact, the same will apply to all of the prepared meats.

Head-cheese. -This article is made usually of pork, or rather from the meat off of the pig's head, skins, and coarse trimmings. After having been well boiled, the meat is cut up in pieces, seasoned well with sage, salt, and pepper, and pressed a little, so as to drive out the extra fat and water.
Some add the meat from off a cow or ox head, to make it lean, or not so luscious.

Spiced puddings. --These puddings are made somewhat like head-cheese, and generally prepared by the German dealers, some of whom make large quantities. They are also made of the meat from the pig's chops or cheeks, etc., well spiced and boiled.
Some smoke them.

Blood puddings are usually made from the hog's blood with chopped pork, and seasoned, then put in casins and cooked.
Some make them with beef's blood, adding a


View page [105]
little milk; but the former is the best, as it is thought to be the richest.

Common puddings. --These puddings are made of the pork skins, beeves' head meat, pigs' liver, etc., seasoned and stuffed into beef's casins, and cooked. Sold at low prices.
These puddings, like the preceding, were more generally used many (forty) years ago by the poorer classes, and especially the hungry laborer, who would take a pair of these puddings (which then weighed one pound) at the cost of three or four cents, and the same amount spent in butter-crackers (nearly or quite as much weight), which would give him a cheap, wholesome, and hearty meal. But of late years the character and reputation of many of these prepared meats have been, except in some instances, any thing but "first rate."

Brawn. --I have no knowledge of brawn being used in this country, although prepared from pork, or, properly, from the wild-boar. The old-country method of making it appears in Willich's Dom. Ency., and is as follows:

"The bones being taken out of the flitches (sides) or other parts, the flesh is sprinkled with salt and laid on a tray, that the blood may drain off, after which it is salted a little and rolled up as hard as possible. The length of the collar of brawn should be as much as one side of the boar will bear; so that when rolled up it may be nine or ten inches in diameter. After being thus rolled up, it is boiled in a copper or large kettle, till it is so tender that you may run a stiff straw through it; when it is set by till it is thoroughly cold, and then put into a pickle composed of water, salt, and wheat-bran, in the proportion of two handfuls of each of the latter to every gallon of water, which, after being well boiled together, is strained off as clear as possible from the bran, and, when quite cold, the brawn is put into it."

Pemmican. --One of the most useful applications of buffalo meat consists in the preparation of pemmican, an article of food of the greatest importance, from its portability


View page [106]
and nutritious qualities. This is prepared by cutting the lean meat into thin slices, exposing it to the heat of the sun or fire, and, when dry, pounding it to a powder. It is then mixed with an equal weight of buffalo suet, and stuffed into bladders.
Sometimes venison is used instead of buffalo beef.
Sir John Richardson, while preparing for his Arctic Expedition, found it necessary to carry with him pemmican from England. This he prepared by taking a round or buttock of beef cut into thin steaks, from which the fat and membranous parts were pared away, and dried in a kiln until the fibres of the meat became friable. It was then ground in a malt-mill, and mixed with nearly an equal weight of beef suet or lard. This completed the preparation of the plain pemmican;
but to a portion raisins were added, and another portion was sweetened with sugar. These latter changes were subsequently highly approved of by the voyagers. The pemmican was then placed in tin canisters and well rammed down, and after the cooling and contraction of the mass, these were filled up with melted lard through a small hole left in the end, which was then covered with a piece of tin and soldered up."

Meat biscuit.--A valuable preparation for long voyages, etc., prepared by Mr. G. Borden, jr., was introduced here a few years ago. He says: "The meat biscuit contains, in a concentrated and portable form, all the nutriment of meat combined with flour . . . . by drying or baking the mixture in an oven, in the form of a biscuit or cracker."

Rennet. --To prepare this article for use, take the stomach of an unweaned calf, lamb, kid, or pig (the calf's preferred), empty it of its contents (some preserve the contents, curds, for use, but they are generally somewhat offensive), wash it slightly with cold water, let it lie ten days in salt, spread it out, and dry it quite hard. To prepare it for use take one quart of soft water, and add salt enough to make a strong pickle; boil, and let it stand until cold; break your dry rennet in small pieces, put it in a jar with


View page [107]
this pickle; in three days it will be fit for use. Strain, bottle, and cork it, and set it in a cool place.

A quick mode of curing meats.--The meat to be cured is placed in a strong iron vessel connected by a pipe and stop-cock with the brine-tub, also with an exhausting-pump. The cover having been screwed down on the iron vessel, the air is extracted and a vacuum established; whereupon the stop-cock being turned, the brine rushes in and takes the place of the air, filling the pores and penetrating the meat.

If some of the parts should not be impregnated with the pickle, more is pumped in by a small condensing engine (connected with the iron vessel), until a pressure of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred pounds on the square inch be attained. It is then allowed to remain ten or fifteen minutes under pressure, when the meat will be found to be fully salted or well cured.

Preserving meat in a fresh state.--A Doctor Londe, of France, a few years ago, presented a plan for keeping meats in a fresh state for a long period. The process, is to "bone the meat, as far as practicable, plunge it into a kettle of gelatine, at about the temperature of boiling water, where it is held about six minutes, and then hung up to dry. Forty-eight hours later, it is again plunged, with its gelatinous envelope, into a solution of water, and then hung up to dry."

Several specimens of this kind of preserved meats (which I suppose were the best) were shown by Mr. Marle, as samples, at the fair of the American Institute, held at the Crystal Palace, 1856. One piece of beef, representing five ribs, which appeared to be from a small, thin animal, and would not weigh over seven or eight pounds (not so much as two of our ordinary ribs), appeared to be dry and hard, looking like a piece of varnished wood, with a smell any thing but agreeable. A leg of mutton, also, that appeared to have been hung up in the sun and dried (as the Indians cure meat, without salt), and then several coats of varnish dried on it.

View page [108]

Curing hams and shoulders.--Rub the meat well with fine salt, when perfectly cool; lay it in a sweet cask for two days. Then, to every hundred pounds of meat, take eight pounds of ground rock-salt, two ounces of salt-petre, two pounds of sugar, one and a half ounces of pot-ash, and four gallons of water. Mix these well together until quite dissolved; skim it and pour it over the meat, when it should be kept under this brine about six weeks (some boil this pickle, and, when cool, pour it over the meat); after which, take out the meat, soak it in cool water for about four to five hours, string the several pieces and hang them up to dry for two days, when they are ready for the smoke-house.

In the Chelmsford Chronicle (1836), "an ancient ham" is thus spoken of: "Mrs. Hyam, who died on the 19th ult., aged eighty years, received, on the day of her marriage, a present of a ham, with a request that it should not be cut until the birth of her first child. The lady never attained to maternal dignity, and the ham was kept until the funeral--sixty-four years--when it was dressed, and, to the surprise of all present, was perfectly good and tender."

Tainted meat or game may be restored as follows: wrap it up in a fine linen cloth, closely, so as to prevent dust or cinders getting in; have ready a pail, or larger vessel of cold water; take a shovelful, or larger quantity of live wood-coals, and throw in; then put the meat or game in, and let it lie under the water for five or ten minutes (according to the size). After taking it out, all the offensive smell will be removed; but it must be immediately cooked.

Fly-blown meats. --The fly which usually blows the meat is known as the green or meat fly. They are always, in the warm weather, found wherever there is fish or flesh, slaughter-houses, markets, larders, pantries, etc., which they frequent for the purpose of "blowing," or leaving their eggs in some moist crevice in the meat. These eggs will hatch in a few hours, so that live maggots are seen to creep.


View page [109]
Many housekeepers imagine that meats in this state are spoiled, and unfit to be used; but such is not the fact, as a little vinegar or salt and water will wash all signs away. Some also think the fly will not blow the newly-killed meats. I have known them to blow in fifteen minutes after the animal has been dressed, and in four hours afterwards found them creeping.

Frozen meat and poultry. --Meat and poultry, of all kinds, should never be frozen, if it is possible to avoid it; it changes the flavor of the flesh, as well as the juices, as it does vegetables and fruit. Nor will meats ripen, or, rather, grow tender, in that state. But, if frozen, it should not be thawed until ready for use, and then not in a warm room gradually, as that will make it flabby and very soon become putrid or spoiled, and, when cooked, be deficient in its flavor. The proper way is to place it in a vessel, cover it with cold water, and there keep until the ice is thawed out, which will be found to form around it.

To make beef tender. --If the weather is cool enough to keep the beef over-night, it should be cut into slices (about two inches thick); then rub over each piece a small quantity of carbonate of soda, and lay it down on dishes until just before cooking, when it should be washed off, and cut into pieces or steaks of suitable thickness, and cooked as wanted. This process will answer for any kind of flesh or fowl. In some of the Southern States, where little else than poor, tough beef is seen, this "tendering" method is adopted, but at the expense of the natural sweetness of the beef.

> WILD ANIMALS, CALLED GAME.

THE wild animals found in our States and Territories, hunted by the white and red man, for food or for pleasure, are accepted under the general title of "game." Professional sportsmen, and even zoologists, particularize the


View page [110]
character of these animals. Some animals there are--the squirrel, raccoon, opossum, etc.--which, although not strictly game, yet are sought after with a zeal by the hunter, as if they boasted of the high character; while others--the fox, the otter, etc.--are mostly hunted for the excitement arising from this manly pursuit.

All animals, whether tame or wild, whose flesh is not strong and tough, more especially when killed in season, are, no doubt, fit for human food; and those which feed principally upon vegetation are to be preferred. There are, however, but few of those which subsist wholly upon flesh or fish that are much sought after for the table. Those with which I am most familiar, both at table and from information, as to their edible qualities, have been introduced in the following pages.

The various wild animals which formerly inhabited this and the adjoining States, in large numbers, have gradually diminished and disappeared at the rapid improvement of agriculture. Before steamboats and railroads came into existence, some species of game were scarce, or only found in our markets during the winter season. They were brought great distances; and when any thing unusual appeared, it was generally noticed in the press, as from the following will appear, in the Commercial Advertiser, February 1, 1823:

"WILD MEATS.--Our markets are not only well supplied with every variety of domestic meat and fowls, but there is a great variety of wild meats and wild game. Mr. Sykes (who kept the New York Coffee-house) has a fine bear* (weighing two hundred pounds), which he is soon to serve up to his friends; and we yesterday saw, at Fulton-market, two wagons, from Sullivan County, N.Y., the one filled with white hares and partridges, and the other with venison. On the top of the bucks, which were stowed closely, stood a fierce-looking panther, almost eight feet long, as if to guard


View page [111]
the buck-tailed tribe. The panther was killed in Sullivan County, about two weeks since."

[Editorial note: The following note appears on the bottom of page 110 in the original text.]

*The bear was purchased by Sykes from the owners of these wagons when they arrived.

Six years after, in the same paper (January 30, 1829), we also find--"Good venison has been a scarce article in this market during the last few weeks; and that of an ordinary quality was sold this morning at eighteen cents per pound. A little after nine o'clock, however, a wagon drove up to the Bank Coffee-house, with a noble load of deer, topped off by a panther of some eight or nine feet in length. They were taken in the town of Liberty, in Sullivan County, upon the Delaware."

Since that period, the employment of steam facilities have been greatly increased, both on land and water, by which the most distant uncultivated States and Territories have been reached, which tended not only to increase the variety of game, but also to enable the importation of large numbers into our numerous towns and cities. No doubt, in the course of future seasons, we shall have our markets supplied with many of the most choice and rare species of game found inhabiting the distant climates and regions, and placed before our citizens as articles of food. At the same time, the advance of agriculture will be the extermination of these animals from the face of our continent.

In New York State, a game-law was passed, on the 6th of April, 1860, in which it is found that moose and deer are protected from being killed during certain months, of which the following is an extract: "No person or persons shall kill, or pursue with intent to kill, any moose, wild deer, or fawn, during the months of January, February, March, April, May, June, and July; or shall expose to sale, or have in his or her possession, any green moose, deer, or fawn skin, or fresh venison, at any time during the months of February, after the 15th day thereof, March, April, May, June, and July, under a fine of twenty-five dollars for each deer so killed, and for each green moose, deer, or fawn skin, or fresh venison, so exposed for sale or had in his possession."

View page [112]

Bison, commonly called buffalo.--he flesh of this large animal is very seldom found in the markets of the eastern cities; but it does occasionally appear, however, in the winter season, and sometimes in excellent condition. I have several times heard of its being in New York, Chicago, etc., and this year (1865), in the month of January, I was enabled to purchase one hind-quarter (with the skin on) and part of another, which was brought here by Mr. J. R. Cook, of Council Grove, Kansas, who had some two or three thousand pounds of nothing but hind-quarters of cow and heifer bison meat. I cut, sold, and presented a large portion of my purchase, so that it might be thoroughly tested as to its qualifications for the table; and I also tried different parts of it roasted, broiled, etc. The general answer returned to me was--it was excellent eating, being very tender, juicy, and fine-flavored, with a slight "gamey" taste: while some described it as being like the breast of the quail, others something like long-killed, sweet, juicy venison. Perhaps, however, this meat was eaten under the most favorable circumstances: in the first place, the animal was fat, having been killed then about two months, and at the same time it was kept in good condition, and thus is was made as perfect for choice eating as it could well be.

In comparing the flesh or meat with that of beef, it appears somewhat darker, both flesh and fat, the latter much redder--in fact, the whole appearance was like that of an overheated animal, when killed in that state, and I found it much more juicy than I expected.

As to the meat when fresh-killed, we must take the evidence of the travellers and hunters, who generally consider it very savory food; and no doubt it is, especially when the animal is a heifer or young cow; or if, like our domestic cattle, a young, fat bull is selected, in some months of the year the meat may be enjoyed by many, and more especially by the hungry traveller. Mr. John G. Bell, the well-known taxidermist, of our city, who travelled with "Audubon," informs me that he had killed many buffaloes, and that the


View page [113]
meat which had been cut off from the cow buffalo, when fat, he always found excellent eating. He compared the flesh of one with that of beef from a domestic cow, and thought the choice was in favor of the bison beef. He also says they always selected these (cow and heifer) for their best eating. In certain seasons, when very dry, and especially in the spring of the year, the buffaloes are all found poor and thin, and unfit to be eaten.

When the Indians hunt them for food, they look among the herd for the extraordinary large animals, feeling sure that they have been castrated when calves, which are often taken in their hunting expeditions, the operation performed, and then let go.

"Audubon," in a letter to Dr. Gideon B. Smith, of Baltimore, in the spring of 1843, says: "Our folks have shot buffaloes, but I have not done so, simply because they were worthless, through poverty, and when killed only display a mass of bones and skin, with a very thin portion of flesh; and if you shoot a bull, the rankness of its better parts is quite enough to revolt the stomachs of all but starving men."

A common true saying is, that "Hunger is an excellent sauce:" I would add that Starvation is a most terrible one! Imagine the dreadful condition of the living, emaciated, starving frames of Truxton, Maury, and others of the Darien Exploring Expedition, when one of the party (Truxton) saw a toad, which he instantly snatched up, bit off the head, spat it away, and then devoured the quivering body! Another (Maury) picked up the rejected head and said to the other (Truxton), "You are getting quite particular! something of an epicure, eh! to throw away the head!" He then quietly swallowed it, although he said afterwards "it was d--sh bitter." The idea that a human being could be in such a necessitous condition as to eat and enjoy the body of such a revolting, loathsome, and disgusting reptile is a most dreadful one.

The hump of a fine at buffalo is composed, nearly or all,


View page [114]
of a sort of meat,--rather fat, somewhat like the udder of a spayed heifer, with the addition of the peculiar wild or gamey flavor, and is said to be very fine, but rather luscious eating. The tongue will also partake of this flavor, and I should think would be very acceptable, especially if it was properly cured. Hunters say the liver is well-tasted, and the brains are often eaten without undergoing the process of cooking. The marrow-bones are also highly esteemed, especially when roasted, and are often used as a substitute for butter, as the marrow-bones of all animals are filled with a short, buttery fat.

Venison.--he flesh of all the deer species is called venison, although there is but one kind plentiful in our public markets in its season. As commonly spoken of, it means the flesh of the common deer, or Virginia deer. This animal is not now found plenty in our State, although many are killed, or, rather, a gradual extermination has been going on for several years past, and more especially in the event of a severe winter and deep snows, when they are slaughtered by hundreds, in an unfit state. Large numbers are also brought from the Western States as well as the Canadas. Prior to 1830, a great many were yearly killed--as well as grouse, or prairie hen--on the Hempstead plains and other parts of Long Island, which brought high prices in our markets.

Buck venison is best when killed from the 1st of August to the 1st of November, but it is quite difficult to have it fresh in our markets at this early date. After the 1st of November the doe venison is preferred, and it continues good until the 1st of January, after which these animals should not be killed. Venison first begins to make its appearance in small quantities in our markets in the latter part of September, and is sometimes found as late as the 1st of March, the next spring, having been kept for months in a frozen state, for the purpose of obtaining the usual high prices which prevail at this late period. It cannot be too fat, and if it have no fat on the back it is of a very poor


View page [115]
quality, and will always eat dry and tasteless, without the skill of the cook is considerably taxed.

Thanks, my lord, for your venison, for finer or fatter,

Never ranged in a forest, or smoked on a platter;

The haunch was a picture for painters to study,

The fat was so white and the lean was so ruddy."--Dr. Goldsmith.

Very large portions of venison is found in (hind) saddles only, and principally with all the skin on, which keeps it in good condition. It is cut and sold by the saddle, haunch, leg, loin, fore-quarter, or in steaks: the latter, however, should not be cut until ready for use. It is considered highly nutritious and very wholesome food. The skins furnish the buckskin of commerce. The Boston News Letter, December 7, 1732, says: "A buck was lately killed in the Narraganset country, which weighed sixty-nine pounds a quarter, and is reckoned the largest deer that has been killed in these parts for some years past."

The Bethany, Wayne County, Pennsylvania, Enquirer, says: "The largest buck within the recollection of our oldest hunters, was shot on the 10th inst. (November, 1831), in Lebanon township. He has attracted the attention of hunters in that neighborhood for about five years past, on account of extraordinary size, and has been repeatedly shot at, but has hitherto escaped shot-free. He was started on the run-way, and was greeted with a fire from two of the hunters; but (to use the language of Big Hunter), Mr. William J. Shields, of Philadelphia, did the job. The deer weighed, before he was dressed, three hundred and sixty-five pounds!!! When dressed, his meat weighed two hundred and ten pounds; tallow (fat), ten pounds; hide, twenty-three pounds six ounces."

The Cornwall Freeholder, 1855 (Canada), relates the following hunting incident as an absolute fact. "As two hunters were hunting on the banks of the river Nacion, near Crysler's Mills, their dogs pressed close on a deer, which took to the river, where the hunters pursued it in a canoe.


View page [116]
On approaching the animal they were surprised to perceive it struggling desperately, being every now and then jerked under water. The hunters immediately approached, and with the aid of others at hand, dragged the deer into the canoe, when, to the astonishment of all present, a large turtle (snapper, no doubt), weighing forty pounds, was found firmly fastened to the tail of the deer, which would have undoubtedly been shortly drowned by its amphibious assailant. The turtle sustained its grip for upwards of two hours after the deer was killed. This extraordinary circumstance is attested to by several witnesses."

In the News from Charleston, December 21, 1815, "A gentleman, resident of John's Island, hunting there a few days since, discovered the bodies of three dead deer, who had been engaged in fighting, and their horns were so entangled that they cannot be disengaged without breaking them."--Commerical Advertiser, Dec. 30, 1815.

The same paper, November 6, 1821, also notices a hunt near Boston, as follows:

"Deer Hunting.-- party of gentlemen left Charlestown, with fox-hounds, to hunt deer in the woods of Sandwich. They arrived at Swift's, in Sandwich, and early next morning started a fine buck, which, after a smart run of twelve to fifteen miles, closely followed by the famous cry, and the huntsmen at full speed, took to the water, was pursued by boats and shot. Another buck was soon after uncovered, and after a short but smart chase, was also killed. The parties returned, bringing with them the carcasses of the venison, which are in fine order, and are in Faneuil-hall Market."

Elk or Wapiti.--Elk venison, both from the wild and tame animal, are occasionally found in our city: two of the former, which had been killed in Iowa, I saw near the Washington Market, in Fulton-street, in 1856 (see Moose), and several since.

Several tame specimens were exhibited at the Fair of the American Institute Cattle Show, on Hamilton Square, in


View page [117]
1854; and on the 16th of June, 1858, a very fine female was brought with a drove of cattle from Iowa, and sold at the Bull's Head yards. About one week after it dropped a young one, which soon after died.

We find the Cleveland Leader (1859), "announcing the arrival in that city of Mr. George Raymond, all the way from Salt Lake City, via Cherry Creek Mines and Kansas, having come the entire distance driving a span of elk before a wagon. The elk in question are only three years old, an age at which horses are not at all fit for use, yet Mr. Raymond assures us that he actually travelled as far as one hundred miles in a single day. He was on his way to Vermont with his novel team. The elk have now upon them horns three feet in length, which have been only six weeks in growing."

The venison from a well-fed animal, in certain seasons, is very good eating, but not so good as from the common deer. But a buck elk, killed out of season, is very poor and strong eating. The horns, in their soft state, are prepared and eaten, and by some considered a delicacy.

The New York Gazette, June 6, 1763, says: Last Tuesday two uncommon animals were seen in Milford, which being pursued betook themselves to the water, and were followed by a number of people in a small vessel, and were taken. The he one was strangled in the water by a rope being made too fast about his neck. The she one is now alive, is big with young, and is about fourteen and a half hands high. They are much the same color as a deer, and are extremely nimble; they have a neck about the length of a common horse's, and short mane, and have little short knobs of horns. The he one was about sixteen and a half hands high; and those that ate of his flesh say it tasted a good deal like venison.

"They were thought to have been elks when they were first taken, but they don't at all answer the description we have had of those animals, which are said to be about the size of a mule, and to have a large horn."

View page [118]

Caribou, or American Reindeer.--This animal appears to be yet found in Maine, and along the borders of the St. Lawrence. Although the flesh of this animal has been brought to our city, I have not yet been able to eat of it. However, it is said, when the animal is in good condition, its flesh is excellent food, being very tender, and the flavor superior to any other venison; but when poor and lean it is quite insipid eating, which "fills the stomach but never satisfies the appetite."

Since writing the above I have eaten of the venison from two different animals, and found both equal to the above description. The sinews and ligaments, however, were very tough and wiry, showing great strength and power of endurance possessed by the animal. It certainly was the best-flavored venison I ever ate.

Black-tailed Deer, or Mule-deer.--Perhaps this animal, or rather its flesh, should not be noticed by me, it being so scarce and far away; but considerable difference of opinion appears among the naturalists about its quality. I have thought proper to introduce what little knowledge I have obtained in my inquiries in relation to it. From one source it is said to be "insipid and inferior to that of the common deer." Another says, "that it is far superior to any of the deer species." Audubon, however, who has killed many of them, describes it as being tender and good flavored; and Mr. Bell (his companion) says "that he had often killed them and eaten their flesh, under ordinary circumstances, and found it quite as good as that of the common deer."

Moose.--The flesh of this scarce animal may be properly termed moose venison; the appearance of all I have ever seen was not so inviting as the common venison, it being a coarse, dry, dark, and tough-looking meat, although the Indians and some hunters say it is excellent food, and they can stand more fatigue while eating it than when using the flesh of any other. Others again say, that it is apt to produce dysentery with persons unaccustomed to use it.


View page [119]
There is no doubt but the flesh of the tame male, either moose or elk, when castrated, could be converted into a dish which the epicure could not resist. The tongue is considered a delicacy, as is also his moufle (the large gristly extremity of its large nose), when properly prepared and cooked. The skins are much used by the hunters for snowshoes and moccasins: for these purposes they are best when taken in the month of October.

Mr. Wm. Paul had, when I saw him on the 7th of February, 1856, in Fulton-street, New York, near the Washington Market, nine moose and two elk, which he had brought from Iowa. They were in good condition, although killed some five weeks before.

Sibley, in his interesting history of the town of Union, Maine, says of this animal: "Probably there is no part of the United States in which moose were so numerous as in Maine. It is said that as recently as 1849 more than fourteen hundred were killed in one year by the Indians, chiefly for the value of the skins."

The N. Y. Mercury, January 11, 1768, says: "We hear from Deerfield, in the province of New Hampshire, that on the 26th day of November last one Josiah Prescot, of that town, being out a hunting about three miles from his house, he spied a large moose at about a hundred yards' distance. He immediately fired at her, and shot her down dead: upon that there arose up two more at a small distance from the first. He immediately charged his gun again and shot down the second; and while the other was smelling of his mate, he charged again, and shot down the third; and while he was charging his gun again, a fourth came up towards the others, and he shot her dead also. Two of them were old ones, the other two young ones. One of the old ones was ten feet high and ten feet long, the other eight feet high and ten feet long; the other two were about six feet high and eight feet long. After this extraordinary exploit was over, he was joined by a partner, who, being within hearing of the guns, came up to his assistance, and


View page [120]
on going home, he got help to dress the moose: a wild-cat they also killed on their return. This is a fact."

One other curious incident I wish to put on record before I part with it. About the year 1840 a gentleman informed me that while living near Syracuse, New York, a Mr. Nathaniel Dickinson, farmer, who lived between that place and Lake Oneida, had a young heifer stray away and was gone all winter, and when found the next spring she had a half-moose calf by her side, about four weeks old. He did not know whether it grew up or not, as he left the place. At that period a great many moose were found there.

American antelope, or prong-horn.--This scarce animal is said to inhabit the great Western prairies in Upper Missouri, Oregon, etc. Lieut. Wilkes (U. S. Expl. Expd.) says that the flavor of the meat was thought to be superior to that of the common deer; and Mr. Horace Greeley, in his interesting letters while travelling to Pike's Peak, etc., in one dated June 2, 1859, says: "The flesh is tender and delicate--the choicest eating I have found in Kansas. Sly and fleet as he is, he is the chief sustenance, at this season, of the Indians out of the present buffalo ranges."

In the same year a remarkable shot was made by Dr. Irwin of the United States Army, of Fort Buchanan, "who killed two antelopes at a single shot with a Colt's carbine, the distance being over three hundred yards. The ball passed through the heart of one animal and the liver of the other."

Big-horn, or mountain sheep.--The big-horn is said, by travellers, to be much larger than the common sheep. The male (full grown) often weighs two hundred to three hundred pounds, and upwards. When fat, the flesh is considered excellent when in season, resembling the finest mutton, and even exceeding it in flavor. If so, there seems no reason, except scarcity and distance, why this animal could not be domesticated, as it is asserted that the scantiest vegetation is sufficient to support it. The gray or


View page [121]
brown wool or hair may be too coarse to be profitably used, which appears the only drawback, except that it may not bear confinement and artificial feeding in winter.

In the month of July, 1817, a skin of this animal, then called "white wild sheep," was presented by John Jacob Astor, Esq., to Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell, who exhibited it at a meeting of the Lyceum of Natural History, and then deposited it in their cabinet. It was brought, among other skins, from Missouri, by the way of Lake Superior.

Rocky Mountain goat.--As this animal's name denotes, the Rocky Mountains claim its principal habitation. I read and believe what travellers assert, that its flesh is not much valued, it being hard, dry, and unpleasant; but there is no doubt it could be domesticated and treated like our common goats, when its flesh would no doubt be well flavored, as well as having the advantage of very fine glossy hair or fleece.

Northern hare.--This animal is found in greater numbers in our markets now than ten years ago. They are nearly one third larger than the common rabbit, the fur much finer, nearly the same color, except in winter, when they are found almost white. The flesh of an old hare is tough, dry, and insipid; but the leveret, or young one, when in good condition, is very fair eating, not however so good as the rabbit. They are generally in our markets in the months of November, December, and January, but are good until March.

This hare was originally introduced into Canada by several English officers during the time of the French war, and from there brought into the States, where they have spread. Several gentlemen sportsmen, in 1827, collected about fifty hares, transported them to Long Island, and turned them loose near the Hempstead plains. I believe, however, that they have been all exterminated many years ago.

A curious incident relating to one of these animals is found in the St. James Chronicle, January 12, 1764, as follows:


View page [122]
"A person of veracity from Lincolnshire (England) says that a few days ago the water suddenly overflowed a field where sheep were grazing, and the poor things being up to their bellies in it, the owner went to get them out, when lo! upon the back of one of them he found a hare sitting, which he laid hold of and brought home, and has it now alive."

Rabbit, or gray hare.--The flesh of this plentiful animal, when over one year old, is quite dark, dry, and tough eating, without considerable aid from the cook. The young, when nearly full grown and fat, are tender and rather delicate eating. When old, their claws are long and rough. They do not change their color like the hare, but always remain gray. Generally found in our markets from September to January, after which they should not be purchased. In the best condition in November, they are brought in large quantities from every quarter, and if they were not so reproductive they would be soon exterminated, as great numbers are shot by the pot hunters before they are half grown: many are destroyed by animals, hawks, owls, etc. In 1850, I went out one morning about daybreak to shoot gray-squirrels. In getting over a fence I discovered a large barred or hooting owl on the ground with a full-grown rabbit, minus the head, which he had devoured. The owl was so busy with his breakfast, and no doubt was quite hungry, that he allowed me to get within ten yards of him, when he started on the wing, carrying the rabbit in his claws. I shot it down, but he clung to his prey until nearly dead.

Domestic or fancy rabbits.--They are often found in our markets (both alive and dead), sometimes ready dressed, generally very fat and fine, and much superior to the wild rabbit, being more juicy, tender, and better flavored. Poulterers keep them alive, for sale, of various colors. The young, for the table, are best from twelve weeks to twelve months old. "In England, the rabbit formerly held the rank of 'farm stock,' and thousands of acres were exclusively


View page [123]
devoted to its production. Families were supported, and rents, rates, and taxes were paid from its increase and sale. The 'gray skins' went to the hatter, the 'silver skins' were shipped to China,' and were dressed as furs, while the flesh was a favorite dish at home."

Guinea pig or cavy.--This restless little animal looks much like a small pig with a fur skin: is a native of South America, but has been domesticated here. They are found in numbers in our markets, alive in cages, for sale. Many keep them as pet animals, although their flesh is eatable, but not much thought of by those who have eaten of it.

Squirrels.--Among the varieties of squirrel found in our markets are the fox, cat, gray, black, and red. I have also seen the ground, or striped, and the flying squirrels alive, but never dead, for sale; they are all, however, edible, and much better eating than the rabbit. The gray and black are found sometimes in plenty along in the months of September, October, November, and December. The fox and cat squirrels are somewhat larger than the gray, and occasionally seen here, having been brought from the Western States. I have shot the gray, black, and red (and might have shot the striped) in the same wood, in one of my hunting excursions in Cayuga County, New York. At another I found the gray and black travelling, or, rather, migrating, which they sometimes do, when their food is scarce. It is said they always travel to the east, often hundreds of miles, and when necessary to cross a river or lake they enter the water like dogs, if it is quite smooth. In the month of September, 1851, I arrived at Lake George where I found the gray and black squirrels had been travelling for several days and were still moving. Early one morning I discovered three or four at several distances, swimming from the western to the eastern shore of the lake, which at that time was as smooth as glass. I watched them as long as I could see the ripples which they made, and supposed they succeeded in crossing the lake, which at this point was more than a


View page [124]
mile wide. They will not enter the water when there is a ripple, as they swim very deep and of course drown easily; sometimes they are caught out in the rivers or lakes with a sudden breeze, just enough to agitate the water, when it drowns them, without they are lucky enough to catch a floating piece of bark or wood to mount upon, and with their tails curled up they are blown or wafted ashore. In this situation, I suppose, some writers have found them who assert that "when it becomes necessary to pass a lake or river, they lay hold of a piece of larch or fir, and mounting it, abandon themselves to the waves; they erect their tails to catch the wind." All squirrels, when sitting, curl their tails up against their backs. I found many of both black and gray squirrels floating or lying along the shores of the lake drowned. Persons frequently went after them in boats, and on putting down the oar before them they would run up into the boat almost exhausted, when they were secured alive. I saw several that had been so taken at Lake George.

The gray squirrel is easily tamed, and soon becomes acquainted with those who feed or treat him kindly. I had one which ran around the house, out into the yard, and at times would sit on my knee or shoulder to feed.

In Boston (and Philadelphia also) I have seen them in the large parks, or public grounds, running up and down the large trees and over the ground. I found they had nests in small wooden houses which were fastened up into the trees, and when some little school-children came along and called them, the squirrels would come down and receive a nut or a piece of cake from their hands. I am told they breed every season in those parks.

Black bear.--The flesh of this animal is the only species I ever knew to be brought to our markets for sale. Bear, or b'ar-meat, is the common name used to designate its flesh (when spoken of), and it is rather luscious but savory eating; that from a young bear, when nearly full-grown and fat, is considered best. Generally found in our large markets in the late fall or winter months, and some


View page [125]
years in great plenty. The dealers in its flesh cut it to suit purchasers, for roasting, steaks, etc.

The taking of one of these animals in swimming across the Hudson River, about the period of the Revolution, and exposing its body for sale in an old market, then known as Hudson-market, which stood on Greenwich-street, east (one block) of the present Washington-market, changed its name to that of the once well-known Bear-market. (See history of the Bear-market, in "The Market-book," vol. i.)

The following will give some idea of their plentifulness in our State, and especially along the Hudson River, at an early period. The New York Gazette, October 8, 1759, has recorded--"A gentleman, who came down in one of the last sloops from Albany, says that he was ashore at several places on each side of the North River, and that at every place he landed there were great complaints made of the damage done by bears. Some complain of the loss of their sheep, hogs, and calves; others, of their devouring their fields of Indian-corn, and adding that they are more numerous than has been known in the memory of man. And, particularly, he was at a tavern on the post-road, near Poughkeepsie, when the landlord counted to him thirty-six, that had been killed within three weeks of that time, in the compass of four or five miles. Whilst this gentlemen and the captain were ashore at this tavern, two bears came out of the bushes where the captain and himself landed, and swam across the river, passing very near the head of the sloop; but the battoe being ashore, it was not in the power of the people of the sloop to pursue them."

The same paper, January 3d, 1763, notices a very large bair, as follows: "Last week, a bair was shot in Connecticut River, at Saybrook, which weighed seven score and seven pounds. About forty men dined on it."

The Commercial Advertiser, November 10, 1824, thus notices the taking of a white bear: "On Monday, the 18th ult., a white bear was killed on the west branch of the River Susquehanna, four miles below Youngwomanstown, by Mr.


View page [126]
John Graham. The fur is thicker, and appears to be softer than that of the black bear, and its ears much larger. It was in company with a black bear at the time it was killed; and Mr. Graham is of opinion that, if he had had assistance, he could have taken it alive. This is the first quadruped of this species that has been seen or taken in this part of the world by any of the oldest inhabitants."

In the same paper (December 1, 1838) will be found a marvellous incident and escape, in a letter dated "Linneus, Me., November, 19, 1838--"About seven o'clock in the evening, Mr. Isaac Saunders' son James, who is about eight years of age, was sent to the barn to feed the cattle, and, while returning therefrom to the house (the distance from the barn to the house is about forty rods), had his attention arrested by the appearance of a black object directly ahead of him. He stood still a moment, not knowing whether to advance or retreat. At length he concluded to go ahead, when the bear rose up on his hind legs, and put himself in an attitude to receive the youngster with his fore paws. The boy, perceiving the attitude of the bear, and his apparent determination to maintain his ground, gave a loud screech, and turned and ran towards the barn. At this the bear started in pursuit, and came up with the boy, who was still screeching. Just as the men in the house, who had heard the alarm, were approaching the theatre of action, the bear seized the boy with his fore paws, raised himself again upon his hind legs, and started with his prey, with all possible dispatch, for the woods. The men hotly pursued him for some three-quarters of a mile, when the bear, finding himself but a few feet ahead of his pursuers, turned around and stood face to face with them, when the men, each of whom was armed with an axe, made a motion to give him a gentle tap on the head; but his left paw was ready for a fend-off, while he held the boy tightly with his right one. The men finding it was useless to fight with axes, one of them started for the house for a gun, which he loaded with buckshot, and returned to the woods. On his


View page [127]
arrival at the scene of battle, the bear, in attempting to turn and try leg-bail again, was shot through the left side of the body, which brought him to the ground, and caused him to relinquish his hold of the boy, who scampered home, more frightened than hurt, having received no other harm than a most unconscionable hugging. The bear weighed, when dressed, three hundred and sixty-two pounds, and is said to be the largest ever caught in this town."

Raccoon.--These animals are occasionally seen in our markets for sale, both alive and dead--usually more plentiful in the fall months. The full-grown or old raccoon will weigh from seven to twelve pounds, the flesh of which is quite rank and strong. The young are better; but I think them inferior eating, and must confess that I was not in a situation to give them a fair trial when I ate of them.

I had the pleasure, or rather, as it turned out afterwards, a punishment of several days' confinement to my room with excessive hoarseness obtained from the enjoyment of a "raccoon-hunt," some twelve or fifteen years ago (1846), away from the United States, in the dominions of New Jersey, with a few friends. On a cool, clear, autumnal evening, we took our departure, travelling some three or four hours before our hound-dogs started the game--a raccoon; which, however, proved to be double game--two raccoons leading our party. We followed their trails for several miles, through the drear wood and underbrush, until we brought up under a large-sized tree, where the dogs gave tongue "right merrily." The darkness of the woods, rendered more dense, if possible, by night, prevented us seeing each other or any thing bearing shape, save now and then a twinkling star peeping through the vast roof of leaves. One of the party, of keener vision, thought he perceived, pendent from a bough, a peculiar-looking bunch, which his imagination left him at a loss to speculate upon. I being the only one in possession of a gun, I proposed taking a shot at it. This being agreed to, I pointed as near as the darkness would permit, and fired. The discharge caused the black bundle


View page [128]
to change its position, which gave life to our party. Here was something. I charged again--this time with buckshot--and popped away at the black bunch. To our amazement, down tumbled a fine young raccoon. The dogs were not satisfied to leave the tree yet. All raccoon-hunters have what they term a "climber"--a boy or man that can quickly mount to the top of a tree; so one of our party enacted this character for this time, and proceeded to ascend the tree. His keen eye soon espied another gentlemanly raccoon, lying well out on an extended limb. With a few shakes, his raccoonship either sprang or fell to the ground, when he instantly fell a prey to the attentions of the dogs. This species of hunting continued throughout the night, varied, however, with the distant and dismal owl-hooting of cat or barred owls, and the scent of several dog-worried skunks, whose occasional proximity was any thing but agreeable. This sport to the dogs, as well as to ourselves, was painfully interrupted now and then by a scratch on the face or lacerated eyes from limbs or bushes, or otherwise stumbling into the depth of some mudhole, or swamp measured, or by becoming a regular "stick in the mud." Finally, before the morning light, one of the hunters discovers a feeling within that a little to eat and drink would be more than agreeable, situated as the party was, but finds to his horror that the noise of the dogs added to the party a most hungry and thirsty addition of hunters, which originally were not "counted in" nor even thought of from the start, who had managed to take particular great care of all the eatables, etc.--we will not refer to the drinkables, which our man "Friday" had the special care of, but who, on getting tired and sleepy, as a person naturally will, who over-eats and over-drinks himself, when their legs get weary and their heads become so heavy that they will insist, nay, almost swear, that in their hats they carried a "brick." To wind up this hunter's experience is a violent cold, with hoarseness,--no doubt, from the exposure of the throat in looking through the tree-tops for mares or raccoons. The fruits of three days' hunting


View page [129]
were the carrying of two well-filled game-pockets, consisting of a couple of raccoons, as many rabbits, several quails and partridges, and a plump nine-pound double-gun; hungry, thirsty, tired, hoarse, and used-up generally, unable to speak aloud for several days, with divers other disagreeables, the result of my experience, and of my first and last "coon-hunt."

Wild-cat, or bay lynx.--This savage little animal, as well as the Canada lynx, is occasionally hunted in this and the neighboring States. The hunters are usually satisfied with their beautiful skins, except in case of short provisions, when they partake of their flesh with much satisfaction--it appearing much like white veal. Audubon says of its flesh--"We have seen it cooked, when it appears savory, and the persons who partook of it pronounced it delicious."

Opossum.--This animal is occasionally found in the markets for sale, in the fall and winter months. The full-grown is about as large as a ten-pound pig (but its flesh is not equal for the table), of a grayish-white face, and under nearly white, and a long rat-looking tail, with a part of it, next to the body, covered with hair.

They are considered by many country-people, and others, who have partaken of their flesh (especially those that have been feeding on the persimmons, and then, above all, well dressed and well cooked), as being tender, luscious, and well-flavored (one man told me it was better than any pig ever roasted). These, and, in fact, all animals, should be dressed as soon after having been killed as possible, and never purchased in any other manner. The skin of this animal is sometimes found on sale, but they are usually scalded like a pig.

Wood-chuck, or ground-hog.--This small, stout, brown-colored animal is only occasionally seen in our markets, although often killed within twenty miles of the city of New York. In the fall months they are very fat, when the flesh of the young is quite palatable, somewhat like a pig, and is considered wholesome. The old ones are tolerably


View page [130]
good, but much better after having been frozen some time. They usually weigh from eight to twelve pounds. A fine fat young one, weighing six and a quarter pounds, dressed like a roasting-pig (hair scalded off), and much resembling that animal, was shown in Jefferson Market, August 17, 1860; it was shot at Throg's Neck, Westchester County, New York. In the Deerfield News, June 4, 1820 (Hampshire County, Mass), is noticed--"Our famous woodchuck-hunt terminated, on Wednesday, in favor of the party under Mr. E. Nims, who destroyed one thousand one hundred and fifty-four. Those under Mr. J. C. Hoyt destroyed eight hundred and seventy-three--making a total of two thousand and twenty-seven!"

Porcupine.--These slow but harmless animals are found quite plentifully in the western parts of our State, where they are often killed, and their bodies left to decay. Their armor, or the great number of little defensive thorns which cover and protect them from their foes when alive, render them very troublesome to skin after death; but I am told their flesh, after having been nicely cleaned, is very tender, luscious, and wholesome eating. The Indians esteem its flesh. It weighs from ten to fifteen pounds.

Skunk.-The flesh of this most detestable animal is, I am told, when properly prepared, as good as raccoon. I have heard those who have eaten it say it was very sweet and savory after it had been dressed. I never saw it for sale in our markets, although I have heard of its being dressed and sold under another name.*

Professor Kalm says of this animal: "I have spoken with both Englishmen and Frenchmen, who assured me they had eaten of it, and found it very good meat, and not much unlike the flesh of a pig. When the Indians kill them they always eat its flesh, but are very careful in dressing or skinning it."

This animal's soft, black, or mottled skin or fur would


View page [131]
be quite as valuable as many other small animals' skins, if it was not for their unpleasant smell. Usual weight, seven to eight pounds.

[Editorial note: The following note appears on the bottom of page 130 in the original text.]

*The skin of the striped and black skunks are often on sale here, the latter being the most valuable.

Beaver.-This animal was once a native here, but civilization and the beaver's valued skin have almost exterminated the family, although now and then a specimen is taken in our State. It is said "the flesh of this animal is greatly prized by hunters and voyageurs, especially when roasted in the skin after the fur is singed off." This, of course, is an expensive luxury, and is frowned upon by the fur-traders. "Care must be taken, however, to examine the herbage on which the animals feed, or mischief may follow an unwary repast. Mr. Ross's party were once poisoned by feasting heartily on beaver, and some of them had a very narrow escape. The Indians eat this kind of beaver, but they roast it; boiled, they say, it is pernicious."

Professor Kalm, in his "Travels in America," in 1748, says: "Beaver flesh is eaten, not only by the Indians, but likewise by the Europeans, and especially by the French on their fasting days; for his Holiness, in his system, has ranged the beaver among the fish. The flesh is reckoned best if the beaver has lived upon vegetables. The tail is likewise eaten, after it has been well boiled and roasted afterwards."

Doctor Goodman also, in his "Natural History," says: "During the winter season the beaver becomes very fat, and its flesh is esteemed by the hunters to be excellent food. But those occasionally caught in the summer are very thin, and unfit for the table."

Otter.--This now scarce animal is seldom seen in our city, although it is brought here occasionally, but more for the taxidermist than for the quality of its flesh for the table. I am told, however, that the flesh is quite good eating, except being of a fishy flavor. I saw a fine specimen in 1857, taken in one of the streams in New Jersey, and I find in the "New York Sun," May 17, 1856: "An otter, weighing eighteen pounds, and three feet six inches long, was caught in


View page [132]
Paramus, Bergen County, N. J., on Thursday last, in a net, drowned. The skin weighed two pounds." The skins are occasionally found in our markets.

A remarkable shot is recorded in the "Commercial Advertiser," March 20, 1838, as follows: "There have been exhibited in our town (Williamsport, Pa.) to-day, three large otters, killed by Mr. Isaac Dodd, about two miles from this place, on the canal, at a single shot, with a musket loaded with small squirrel-shot, the largest (otter) of which weighed twenty-five pounds and the smallest twenty pounds."

Badger.--These animals are sometimes taken, but more for their skin than their flesh, although by some they are considered good eating. They are little larger than a raccoon, with a thick fur coated with long hair of a reddish, brindle color, except underneath, which is white. They are very intelligent-looking in the face, with sharp teeth and long claws. An occasional skin is found in our cities for sale.

Musk-rat or Musquash.--This animal is among the many kinds that are seldom or never seen in our markets, yet they are often killed for their fur skin, and their flesh would be (more) eaten if it was thought eatable. The name it bears would almost condemn its flesh from being used as food; but I know several persons who, having dressed and eaten them, say its flesh is tender and very well flavored, when young and in good condition. If its flesh can be hung and frozen a few days it is considered still better. A large number of their skins are brought to our (New York) city and sold.

> POULTRY.

UNDER this head we place all kinds of domesticated fowls, tame pigeons, etc. These are received from Long Island, and other parts of our State, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. Large numbers arrive here from the latter State, of the choicest quality, all ready dressed, put up in various packages


View page [133]
in the cold seasons. During the hot weather numbers are sent here alive in "coops;" but many of our large dealers prepare boxes, in which poultry, carefully dressed, are packed in ice, by which means they arrive here in good condition. In the dressing, care should be taken in the "picking" not to tear the skin, nor should the wings be cut off, but picked to the end, and the necks tied up, so that the bodies should not get bloody. Large numbers go through the process of scalding, that the feathers may be taken off more readily; these are not so much liked as dry-picked fowls. This mode of dressing appears to us an unnecessarily cruel one: the fowl is usually stuck in the mouth up through the upper jaw into the brain, and then, while slowly bleeding and struggling, they are picked; if laid until the fowl is quiet and dead the feathers become set, and then, of course, the skin is torn in plucking them off.

Poultry would be more delicate eating, better flavored, and command higher prices if all the useless offal, such as the head, feathers, and intestines, were removed, and the blood washed out with cold water. This would remove the injury often done to the flesh by the flavor of the excrements, when having been killed some time. The caponed fowl may be left with the head on, that the purchaser may judge whether he be a capon or not, by the withered comb and gills. The common fashion now to prepare poultry for our markets is to stick them through the jugular vein, then either to scald and pick them, or dry-pick them (as above), often leaving attached the tail, neck, and wing feathers, with the addition of the head, and sometimes a piece of bloody rag around the neck; all this useless waste is then to be weighed, they being generally sold by the pound, thus adding over half a pound to each fowl above its proper weight.

The food given to poultry produces great influence on the character and flavor of the flesh. Fowls cooped up for a few weeks before killing, and fed upon cereal grain, have a delicate, tender, and sweet flesh; whilst, on the contrary, those that are allowed to run, pick up rancid meats, fat, fish,


View page [134]
scraps, or other unfit substances, have a corresponding taint or taste, and, at the same time, the flesh is less tender and less fine-flavored. The conclusion is, the cleaner the diet the more delicate the flavor.

To judge fresh poultry.--The eyes should be full and bright, feet moist, soft, and limber. When stale, the eyes will be dry and sunken, the feet and legs dry and stiff, and if too stale, the body, or some parts of it, will be dark-colored, and sometimes green. The "New York Tribune" of December 16, 1853, speaks of a lot of chickens, of about eight thousand pounds, which had arrived here in a damaged state, and after remaining on the dock two days, was bought up by a speculator for fifty dollars, or six-tenths of a cent per pound, for the lot. The poultry, on being unpacked, was found in a slimy, tainted condition, on the verge of putrefaction. Before being exposed for sale it underwent a process of being "manufactured over," a process well known to the knowing ones. This is accomplished by soaking the poultry in alum-water, which relieves it of the slime and appearance of decay, and restores it to an apparently fresh state. "In three days the entire lot was disposed of, from the sale of which the speculator realized a profit of over eight hundred dollars. Poultry that has undergone this process turns black (when the skin has been torn off) after having been exposed a short time to the air." In several of our large public markets nearly all kinds of the various species of poultry, of the choice, rare, and fancy kinds, as well as many species of fancy, curious, and table birds, both large and small, are often to be had alive. With these few remarks on poultry, I will proceed with the different species.

Caponed fowls.--There is no doubt that the caponed fowls stand at the head of all the poultry kind, and they always command the highest market price. They are considered the greatest delicacies, preserving the tenderness of the chicken with the fine juicy flavor of maturity. The breed of fowls the most profitable for making capons appears


View page [135]
to be the Bucks County fowl, although the Dorkings, Cochin-China, and other large breeds, are by some preferred. The object, however, appears to be to get large, square, heavy-bodied fowls (cockerells are generally used, as the hen chickens are smaller and seldom used for that purpose) that have a rapid growth.

One of the largest young capons I ever saw was sold by Hedden & Sons, Jefferson Market, March 18, 1859, which weighed twelve pounds, and when laid out measured above three feet. I have seen heavier, but they were older. They also had a pair of nine months old capons, on the 4th of April, 1863, which weighed twenty-four pounds, and they were not coarse-made, but plump, fat, and fine.

To judge the capon.--Generally the head is small (for the size of the body, compared with the uncaponed fowl), the comb is quite pale, short, and withered, the feathers on the neck, if left on, are longer, and, if quite young, they will have smooth legs, and short, thick, soft spurs. The body is larger, fatter, more plump and round than the common fowl, in proportion, and generally they have a fat vein on each side of the breast, running into the hard, fat stomach and rump, which is the most unprofitable portion of this fine fowl. In some instances the performance of caponizing is not complete, when the head and large comb will show themselves more like the uncaponed fowl, which gives them the appearance of having large bones and less flesh. In this state they are called

Slips, or slip-capons--which are of course inferior to the capon, but are generally dressed like them, and very often sold for them by the dishonest dealer.

Chickens.--Many of the poulterers term all under a year old "chickens;" but long before that period arrives many hen chickens commence laying, and then they are properly called, by many persons, "pullets." The cockerell is also considered fully matured when from five to eight months old, and begins to enjoy all the rights and privileges of the poultry-yard. It certainly cannot be expected that the flesh


View page [136]
of these matured birds will be as delicate as the young, growing chicken, which is daily making a new and tender flesh. Therefore, to designate the young, growing chicken, it will not be improper to place them under the head of

Spring-chicken or broilers.-This name is not an uncommon one among some of our best dealers, who deal largely in broilers varying from the size of a quail to two or three pounds per pair. Although we have them of all sizes in almost all the months of the year, yet the greatest portion is hatched in February, March, and April, and brought to our markets in the spring months.

In choosing, never select the coarse, long-legged, thin-breasted chicken because they are the heaviest, but take the plump, full-breasted, partridge-shaped, for juiciness, fine grain, and well-flavored eating, besides having plenty of the breast-meat and less bone.

To judge a chicken from a fowl. It is nearly the same as judging a young turkey. The lower end of the breast-bone is always soft, like the gristle in a person's ear. The spurs of a young cockerel are soft, loose, and short. When old, the comb and legs are rough, spurs hard and firmly fixed, and both cock and hen have a hard breast-bone. There are few species of the bird kind more tender than a young chicken, and very few tougher than an old cock or hen.

Mr. Samuel Hazard, of Philadelphia, informs me that while he was travelling in the Island of Malta, in the Mediterranean, it was the custom for small families to buy at the markets parts of a chicken--the half or a quarter is sold, as the purchasers wish. Another curious custom he also noticed: there being no cows kept for milk, goats are used, and the milk-women drive the goats to the customers' doors, and there milk from them the quantity desired. Pity we could not have our cows' milk obtained in some such manner, or, rather, as pure.

Fowls.--This name is generally applied to both the cock and hen of the common dunghill fowls, by our dealers generally, after having passed the age of one year. When


View page [137]
seeking for the best fowls select those which are the youngest, plump, fleshy, and fat, and that flesh nearly white. When the flesh on the breast will mash under the pressure of the thumb, it is best. Among the many breeds producing the best fowls are the Dorkings, Polands, Black Spanish, Dominiques, etc. The coarse, long-legged, big-boned breeds (among which the Shanghais are the poorest), have very small breasts according to their size and quantity of bone; their flesh is also coarse and not well flavored.

Live fowls of all the various kinds, breeds, and conditions, are always to be found in our public markets, and large numbers are sold to shipping vessels, steamers, etc. This business has now become so large, that one firm (Messrs. Tilton) in Franklin Market (N. Y.), keep many thousand ready for that purpose, and some days their sales and receipts of live fowls have been enormous. One of the firm told me, that in the month of April, 1862, they received one lot, from Indiana, which numbered above 8,000 fowls and chickens, which came through on railroad and steamboats, in coops, and were daily fed and watered throughout the passage. A large business from the Western States has grown up since the rebellion commenced, which closed the Mississippi River; and hereafter, no doubt, we will receive their surplus stock.

A (fowl) curiosity is noticed in the New York Journal, December, 1797. "Captain Bradford, of this town (Boston), last week purchased a fowl in the market, of about four pounds weight, which on opening for the purpose of cooking, was discovered to be entirely filled with liver, to the exclusion of almost every other kind of entrails. The liver commenced its growth in the common place; but had increased so enormously as to occupy almost the whole interior cavity,--a small intestinum passing by its side to convey and void the food after digestion. The liver weighed upwards of a pound. Several gentlemen of the faculty, and many respectable private citizens have viewed and been astonished at this phenomenon."

View page [138]

In the month of January, 1858, I purchased a young cockerel, in Jefferson Market, which appeared with a double vent and a false rump. I opened it and found the vent connected after its entrance into the body about half of an inch. Both were perfect, and appeared to have been used alike. Since that period I obtained another curious specimen--a chicken full grown, with three legs--the third leg was fast in an immovable socket, about one inch to the rear of the socket of the left leg. The joints of this extra leg were immovable, and without toes. A curious freak of nature.

Bantam fowls.--These very small and generally feather-legged fowls, are, I believe, seldom raised for the table, but rather as a fancy fowl or curiosity. When found "dressed" in our markets, their bodies are not much larger than a partridge; their flesh, however, is finely grained and of a superior quality, if the young and fat are chosen.

Guinea-fowls, or pintada.--The flesh of the Guinea-fowl is dark, like that of the grouse, and many consider it more delicate and savory than the common fowl, but not so juicy. They are generally found unpicked in our markets, and by raising the feathers on the breast you will easily perceive if they are fat and plump. A good fowl will weigh from three and a half to five pounds. They are considered best in the winter months, when they take the place of partridges after they are out of season. When alive they make a harsh, grating noise, very much like the sharpening or filing of an old saw, and in a flock this noise is almost continuous.

Turkeys.--These splendid birds are almost the year through found in our markets, but the best season for them is in the fall and winter months, when the young ones are in perfection. To judge young turkeys from the old:--the young has smooth, and most of them black legs (the young "Tom" has, also, short, loose spurs), and a soft, gristly breast-bone, at the thin end, where it joins the stomach. Some have a very crooked breast-bone, caused from their


View page [139]
roosting on a narrow perch, which they at night rest upon, but it does not injure their flesh, except to lessen the quantity, on the one side or the other, when very crooked or deformed. When the legs are rough, the spur of the "cock" long and hard, and the breast-bone hard, covered with a soft, tough-looking fat skin, these signs are generally those of age.

The young hen, for a small family, is preferred, as they are smaller, plump, and generally fatter. But for a large family, a fine young "Tom," when well roasted, is a dish that can hardly be surpassed.

The old turkey is best for boning, and generally preferred for a plain boil. In March and April, the flesh of all turkeys begins to get soft, dry, spongy, and not well flavored, although I have eaten, and seen for sale, turkeys that were killed, dressed, and drawn, in their proper season, kept frozen for nearly five months. On the 10th of May, 1858, I purchased one, and found the flesh tender, juicy, and firm, but not quite so well flavored as a fresh-killed turkey in its season. It has become a large and profitable business (in Vermont especially) to prepare them in this manner. They are sold in the spring months, and realize one hundred per cent. more than the usual price in the fall months.

Occasionally, very large turkeys are exposed for sale in our markets, one of which I saw, January 23, 1852, on the stand of Messrs. Packer & Knapp, Washington Market, which weighed, dressed, thirty-three pounds six ounces. In 1859, Chester K. Crook, No. 55 Bowery, is said to have weighed forty-one pounds three ounces, for which he paid forty dollars. On the last day of December, 1858, I saw a young (spring) turkey, which weighed twenty-one and a half pounds, on a stand in Jefferson Market. A still larger one, hatched in the month of May, 1864, which came from Charles Norton, Esq., near Bristol, Connecticut, who sent it to his brother, H. G. Norton, Esq., for his Christmas dinner, weighed twenty-five and a half pounds. He also informed


View page [140]
me, that his brother, in the spring of 1863, sold a gobbler turkey, about four years old, which weighed forty-two pounds.

Ralph H. Avery, Esq., of Wampsville, Madison County, New York, writes me, on the 24th of June, 1858, and says: "I have on hand now a turkey gobbler two years old, that weighs thirty-two pounds, and is thin; also a hen turkey weighing twenty-one pounds. I sold a gobbler in February, 1856, that was two years and eight months old, that weighed thirty-four pounds, for one dollar per pound. He was purchased by J. M. Matthews, Esq., of the firm of Matthews, Hunt & Co., of your city, and presented to President Buchanan at his inauguration, and I learn he can now be seen in the gardens of the Presidential mansion. He acts, I suppose, as a member of the 'kitchen cabinet.'"

The largest turkey, perhaps, ever grown, was owned and raised by Widow Lounesberry, Stanford, Connecticut, and sold by her to the Union Club of that town for twenty-five dollars, and by them sent to President Johnson as a present for New Year's Day, 1866. This turkey was not quite two years old, yet it weighed, alive, forty-seven pounds!"

Turkey poults, or half-grown turkeys, are seldom brought to our markets; they are considered very delicate and tender, but not much flavor, and rather insipid eating.

Capon Turkey.--The Capon turkey is occasionally found in our markets. It is said they are more difficult to raise than the Capon fowl, and more destructive to the young poultry of all kinds in the yards. When found, they are the most delicious eating of all the turkey kind, being more tender, juicy, and fine-flavored.

Pea-fowls.--These beautiful birds are generally kept for ornament, but when young its flesh is almost or quite equal to the turkey. I had a fine young pea-hen, weighing just six pounds, roasted, which my family thought quite as good as turkey, and I must admit, the dark flesh was quite as good, if not superior, to any turkey I ever eat, being more tender and sweet. I therefore disagree with an old


View page [141]
adage, in relation to this bird, as not having a single redeeming quality, which says: "It has the plumage of an angel, the voice of the devil, and the stomach of a thief." "In ancient times," says Martin, "no great feast in the baron's hall was served up without this bird to grace it; well cooked, served on a large dish, but rearranged in its gorgeous plumage."

Tame pigeons.--These beautiful birds, when used as food, are found to be dry eating, but well flavored; if, however, they are young, then cooped up and strongly fed a few days, their flesh will be more delicate and tender. They are only fit to fricassee, stew, or for a pie, etc.

Many varieties are found for sale alive in our large markets, of all kinds and colors, some of which are very beautiful. They are known as "fancy pigeons," among which are the carriers, pouters, or croppers, ruff-heads, tumblers, topknots, duffers, fantails, baldpates, magpies, etc. Among these the ruff-heads wear a frilled or fanciful cap on their heads, and ruffles around their necks, which give them some of the appearance of the ladies' ruffles of Queen Elizabeth's time. These ruffles are raised feathers, which commence behind the head, proceed down their neck, and join on the breast. The colored ruffs with white heads are the most beautiful.

The pouters have the power to distend the crop or breast with wind, so that it is almost half as large as itself; then the tumbler, which turns over and over while on the wing; and the useful and curious carrier, which has a peculiar-looking fleshy tubercle growing on the sides of the eyes and bill. They are very strong and swift on the wing, quick-sighted, and possess great attachment for the place of their birth, which causes them, when carried away from their home, even hundreds of miles, to find their way back when let loose. In olden times, or until the telegraph had commenced its operations, they were much used to convey messages, news, etc.

Tame squabs, the young of tame pigeons, are usually


View page [142]
found the year round in our markets. Their flesh is very tender, delicate, and light food, and well adapted for the sick.

Domesticated swan.--There are several persons in this country that have these beautiful and graceful birds domesticated, and keep them more as an ornament than for the table. In the waters of Central Park large numbers are to be seen daily.

In England, swan-feasts are common in the months of September and November, and often as late as Christmas.

The young, or cygnet, is considered a capital dish, very highly esteemed, and never better than in the month of November. Yarrell says: "The town-clerk of Norwich sends a note from the town-hall to the public swanherd, the corporation, and others who have swans and swan-rights, on the second Monday in August. They are collected in a small stream or pond, the numbers varying from fifty to seventy, and many of them belonging to private individuals. They begin to feed immediately, being provided with as much barley as they can eat, and are usually ready for killing early in November. They vary in weight, some reaching to twenty-eight pounds. They are all cygnets. If kept beyond November, they begin to fall off, losing both flesh and fat, and the meat becomes darker in color and stronger in flavor."

Ducks.--There are many breeds of ducks which are very fine for the table, among which are the Muscovy, top-knot, Cayuga black, etc. A cross between the common and Muscovy produces a very large bird at an early age, and is considered by many the choicest duck.

The young, or spring-duck, is always the best; but sometimes to select is rather difficult for the uninitiated, as it requires the experienced eye and hand to judge both the young duck and goose. There are, however, some general signs which are found correct. The joints in the legs will break by their own weight; the windpipe will also break easily under the pressure of the fingers. The lower end of


View page [143]
the flat breast-bone should be soft, and, above all, they should be plump and fat.

Geese.-Among the best breeds of geese for the table are the Bremen, Chinese, African, etc. Hybrids are also highly prized for their superior size and flesh.

To choose the young goose, the same signs as the duck will also apply. Usually the bill and feet are yellow (but red if old). If the goose has been scalded when dressed, the pressure of the thumb and fingers behind and under the wing will break the ribs; a pressure also on the windpipe will snap or mash like a stiff straw, and a pin's head will break through the skin easily.

The flesh of an old goose is very poor eating, and more especially when thin and very old, they are one of the worst in the family of poultry. I have known them to live above thirty years, and read remarkable stories of their being above one hundred years old; but the following goose story, or hoax, must convince all of this fact. Among the articles exhibited at the New Jersey State Fair, 1859, was an antiquated goose, which attracted much attention. Its history was posted on the coop which contained the venerable bird, and read as follows: "Madame Goose is now owned by Robert Schomp, of Reading, Hunterdon County, N.J. She has been in his possession twenty-five years, and was given to him by his grandfather, Major H. G. Schomp. Robert's father is now in his eighty-fifth year, and this goose was a gift to his mother as a part of her marriage outfit. The mate of Madame Goose was killed in the Revolutionary War, being rode over by a troop of cavalry. She enjoys general good health, is not so active as she once was, but moves about among her descendants with dignity and considerable activity. In the spring of 1857 she laid six eggs, three of which were hatched, and the goslings raised. In 1858 she made seven nests and laid but two eggs, evidence perhaps of failing faculties. Her eyes are becoming dim, one having almost entirely failed. The year of her birth cannot be known, but she remains a representative of the


View page [144]
'olden time,' and is worthy the respect which honorable age should ever command."

When purchasing, if possible, select those geese which are fresh and fat, the head and giblets cut off, and nicely drawn, as it will make a saving of nearly two pounds in their weight. They are always best in the fall and winter months.

A novel mode of bringing live geese to market was performed by "a Mr. Downing, formerly a sheep-broker, at Browning's (Bull's Head, Sixth-street), who brought to market four hundred and seventy-five geese and turkeys, and four hundred and fifty chickens. They came in cars, were driven like sheep twenty-five miles to Columbus, Ohio, and there shipped by Erie Railroad, and sold here same as cattle, by pound, live weight--the geese at nine cents per pound, and turkeys at ten and a half cents. Eight hundred and fifty more are expected on Friday." They, however, did not give satisfaction for the table, as their flesh was generally tough and dry eating.

The origin of eating goose on Michaelmas-day is thus handed down to us: "Queen Elizabeth, on her way to Tilbury Fort, on the 29th of September, 1598, dined at the ancient seat of Sir Neville Umfreville, near that place; and, as British Bess had much rather dine off a high-seasoned and substantial dish than a flimsy fricassee or a rascally ragout, the knight thought proper to provide a brace of fine geese to suit the palate of his royal guest. After the queen had dined very heartily, she asked for a half-pint bumper of burgundy, and drank destruction to the Spanish Armada. She had but that moment returned the glass to the knight, who had done the honors of the table, when the news came (as if the queen had been possessed of the spirit of prophecy) that the Spanish fleet had been destroyed by a storm. She immediately took another bumper, in order to digest the geese and good news, and was so much pleased with the event, that she, every year after, on that day, had the above excellent dish served up. The court made it a


View page [145]
custom, and the people have followed the fashion ever since."--Commercial Advertiser, Dec. 5, 1806.

Green geese.--This name is applied to the gosling that is about three parts grown--say from two to three months old, when they have been generously fed and allowed to run on fine pasture. Many are prepared for our summer tables, and they are considered very fine eating.

In some parts of Europe they cram their geese to such an extent, as, with the addition of heat, to cause their livers to increase to one and two pounds weight, which are considered a great delicacy. They are sent here in packages, and often found on the tables of our foreign epicures.

Giblets.--Thirty years ago it was quite common to find tied up in bunches the necks and wings of geese, ducks, turkeys, and fowls, for sale under the name of "giblets;" but the cook now adds the heads, gizzards, and livers of all kinds of poultry or game-birds to the name. They are used for stewing, fricassee, pot-pie, etc.

> WILDFOWL AND BIRDS, CALLED GAME.

THE variety, quantity, and quality of wild-fowl and birds, called game, and others not placed under this head, received in the public markets, especially of the city of New York, is not surpassed in any other city in the world. The prairies of the West, the forest-regions of the North, the gulfs and coasts of the Northern and Southern States, and even European cities, all contribute to keep well supplied the wants of our citizen epicures, in every month or season of the year. No doubt new and rare varieties of game will be added to our already numerous species, as the facilities for transportation increase.

We avail ourselves of a passage from "Frank Forrester's Field Sports," which says--"Within a few years, there is but little doubt that the Western species (of all game) will be exposed for sale in our markets; and, should Whitney's


View page [146]
Oregon Railroad go into effect in our day, who knows but we may live to shoot 'cocks of the plains' ourselves, and bring them home the next day to dinner at Delmonico's," so says the late Henry William Herbert.

In naming the numerous species of game and other birds, I am anxious merely to show those which it is proper to take, kill, or destroy, as well as those which directly or indirectly affect our tables or are found in our public markets. In doing so, I do not wish to encourage the destruction of a single life that would be more useful to the economy of nature than its dead body for the table. In fact, I would go so far as to wish the passage of a United States general law that would especially protect all birds smaller than the quail, except a few shore-birds, or those which are considered and known to be injurious.

Thousands of birds of the small species are wantonly killed merely for the sport, or a few pence. These slaughtered birds, when alive, destroy millions of insects, flies, worms, slugs, etc., penetrating every nook and corner of hedge, thicket, or field; bush and tree, they clear limb after limb, while every passing, folded, or withered leaf is carefully examined and deprived of its concealed but destructive tenant. Without these useful and beautiful little "trespassers," the many destructive insects would increase so rapidly as to become almost a plague, by destroying all fruit and vegetation; while the loss of a little fruit or seed for their subsistence for a short period would amply repay the cultivator for the great services they render him.

It has been particularly noticed that they do not often touch the sound fruit when they can find those that have worms in them. From this fact, they should not be driven from the fruit-trees: they are friends and benefactors, not only to the cultivator but to mankind at large, and to all who have a sentiment for all that is beautiful, poetic, and most musical of nature's productions.

Since writing the above, I find game-laws were passed on the 6th of April, 1860, which at least protect some of the


View page [147]
useful birds, and others called game-birds, for certain periods or months. It says, no person or persons shall kill or expose for sale "any woodcock between the first day of January and the fourth day of July, in each year; or any partridge or ruffed grouse, between the fifteenth day of January and the fifteenth day of October; or any wood, black, or teal duck, between the first day of February and the first day of August, in each year, under the fine of two dollars for each and every of said birds so killed or had in possession.

"No person or persons shall kill any prairie-fowl or pinnated grouse, in the State of New York, within five years from the passage of this act, under a fine of ten dollars for each bird so killed.

"No person or persons shall, at any time, within this State, catch any quail (sometimes called Virginia partridge) or ruffed grouse, with any trap or snare, under a fine of two dollars for each bird so caught." Nor "kill, cage, or trap any nightingale, night-hawk, blue-bird, yellow-bird, Baltimore oriole, finch, thrush, lark, sparrow, wren, martin, swallow, or any bird of the species of woodpecker, or other harmless bird; nor shall any person or persons kill, cage, or trap any bobolink or robin, between the first day of February and the first day of October, in each year, under a fine of fifty cents for each bird so killed, caged, or entrapped."

> WILD-FOWL.

Wild swan or whistling swan.--This is a scarce bird in our markets, although occasionally seen. The cygnets (young) are very fine eating, but should not be above a year or two old. They require five or six years to reach maturity. The third year the bill becomes black. Very old birds have a hard protuberance on the bend of the last joint of the wing. Their season here ranges from November to January.

The "Brooklyn Star," in the winter of 1846, notices that


View page [148]
"a flock of white swans made their appearance in Hempstead Bay, and one of them was shot, weighing seventeen pounds." Mr. George T. Sammis, of the Seaside House, Rockaway, Long Island, on the 25th of February, 1866, found a pair of swans in Jamaica Bay and bagged them both,--their wings measuring eight feet extended, and weighing twenty-five pounds.

Trumpeter swan.--This species is not so scarce in our markets as the whistling swan; in fact, nearly all brought here are of this species, generally shot in the Chesapeake. The young are pretty good eating, but the old are very dry and tough. In season from November to January.

The most remarkable feature of this bird is, when dissected, you will find a very lengthy windpipe encased in the breast-bone, which, no doubt, is the cause of the loud trumpeting sound it makes.

Wild goose, or Canada goose. This bird is plenty here, in its season, and to designate them you will find the head and greater part of the neck is black, cheek and throat white. The young are very fine eating, and are considered superior to the common goose. They are best in October, November, and December: although there are not many killed in the latter month, yet they are found in our markets as late as January.

This goose is not an uncommon inhabitant of the poultry yard, having been domesticated and even bred from. I recollect, some forty years ago, Mr. McComb, at Kingsbridge, had, for many years, a large flock around his house; but most of their time they spent in the Spuyten Duyvil Creek.

When breeding with the common, the Chinese, or the Bremen, this goose produces a hybrid, or mongrel, which grows rapidly, and acquires a larger size than either of its parents. Their flesh is also of a finer flavor, and commands a higher price in our markets.

Snow-goose or white brant.--Occasionally the young of this fine white bird is seen exposed for sale in our


View page [149]
markets, and it is said they are superior to the former (Canada goose), both in juiciness and flavor. When found here it is generally in the month of May, and again in November.

Mud or Hutchins' goose.--This species is not an uncommon one in our markets. In size smaller than the Canada goose, but appears much like that bird. It is said that its flesh is strong and fishy.

Brant or brent goose.--The flesh of this bird is considered fine eating, although, at times, it is a little sedgy, which, no doubt, is caused by its "feeding-grounds." The adult has entirely black wings, while the young has them tipped with grayish white. A good bird will weigh about four pounds. Large numbers are found in our markets in their season, which appears to be in April and May, when some consider them best; then again, it appears in October, November, and December.

Canvas-back duck.--This, no doubt, is the finest and choicest wild-duck known for the table, when in season, which generally appears to be in the latter part of November and through December; and then, provided they have been killed in the Susquehanna, Chesapeake, Potomac, and Delaware Rivers, feeding on what is commonly called wild celery, they are very fat, fine, tender, and with that delicious flavor so much admired. If taken at any other season and place they are but little better than some of the common sea-ducks. To judge a fine wild-duck, is in their superior weight; and by feeling behind their legs they will be plump and full, and of course fat and always good.

Canvas-back duck received its name from the fact that a portion of the back of the drake resembles a piece of canvas. The bill of this duck is black, and higher at the base than the red-heads, and nearly in a straight line with the head, about three inches long.

They are found in our markets earlier and later than the above months, but usually in smaller quantities. Large numbers are sent by our swift steamers to Europe, where they command high prices. The question may be properly


View page [150]
asked--"Where are all the wild ducks taken that are brought and sold in our large cities?" The wild-duck trade is a large business, especially on our southern waters. The "Norfolk Herald," of January 8, 1857, will give some idea as answer to the above question:

"Edward Burroughs, Esq., a substantial farmer of Princess Anne, Long Island, Back Bay, from time immemorial famous as the resort of wild-ducks and geese, has had twenty men employed constantly since the commencement of the season; and up to the 20th of December, 1856, they had consumed in their vocation twenty-three kegs of gunpowder, with shot in proportion. The ducks which they killed were brought to Norfolk once a week, and piled up in the warehouse of Kemp & Buskey, on Roanoke Square, where, on every Wednesday, they were packed in barrels and shipped for New York by the steamship Jamestown. The number of barrels thus sent off weekly have, up to this time, averaged from fifteen to twenty-five barrels, and one week the number reached as high as thirty-one. They consist of all the varieties of the duck species known in our latitude, such as canvas-back, red-heads, mallard, black ducks, sprig-tails, bull-necks, bald-faces (or widgeons), shovellers, etc., to which may be added a good proportion of wild geese."

Prior to 1820 there were but few canvas-back ducks brought to our public markets; in fact, those that were brought either to New York or Boston were shot by sportsmen from those cities, who made annual visits down to the Chesapeake and Susquehanna, and brought these and other game home; when a few friends, or those celebrated caterers, Niblo and Sykes, were sure to receive all that could be spared, as they were generous in the prices paid for them, which, no doubt, soon led to their more general demand and introduction. The "Commercial Advertiser," December 13, 1822, thus notices canvas-back ducks: "We have had an unusual supply this season of this delicious species of the wild-duck from Havre de Grace. At no former


View page [151]
season do we recollect to have seen them so abundant, and at the same time so fine. A single pair out of the lot sent to Mr. Niblo the other day weighed twelve pounds. We are informed that both he and Mr. Sykes have made arrangements for receiving regular supplies of them from the Susquehanna and Chesapeake, during the winter." And for many years they received principally all the canvas-backs sent to this city for sale.

About fifty years ago this dainty bird was found to frequent the Hudson River. This fact was noticed at that period as follows: "The principal feeding-place is in the neighborhood of Pollepel's Island and Fishkill Landing, where they sometimes overspread acres of water. There the valisneria grows plentifully a little above the reach of the salt water: and these diving ducks resort there to feed on it in great numbers. When the ice prevents their obtaining their favorite food, they take their departure, and return in the spring as soon as the river opens."

Until very lately, the gunners used to confound these birds with broad-bills, red-heads, and other ducks, and sell them all together. There was then no difference in the price. Twenty-five cents would purchase a canvas-back as readily as an ordinary duck. But now the distinction is well understood by the fowlers. They bring them to market, and offer them for sale as true and real canvas-back ducks. The lovers of good eating buy them eagerly, and the price of a pair of these rare birds has risen to two and three dollars. Good preparations of the New York male and female were made by Mr. De la Coste, and are now in the collection of ornithology in Princeton College; and another pair from the Hudson, in fine preservation, is in the possession of P. A. Schenck, Esq., the Surveyor of the Port of New York.--Med. Repos., vol. x.

Red-head, or Pochard.--This is also an excellent duck, and frequently sold for the canvas-back to those who do not know the difference, as it is much like that bird. The bill is of a bluish color, and towards the end it is


View page [152]
black, and about two and a quarter inches long, a little curved from the head. This duck commands a high price, but not so high as the preceding. Their season commences in November, and they are found sometimes very plenty all the winter long, and then again in straggling numbers; but their flesh is best for the table in the two first months.

Mallard.--This beautiful and very fine duck is second to none, except the canvas-back and red-head, for the table. The color of the head and upper part of the neck is of a deep green, with a white ring about the middle of the neck. Its flesh is considered best in the autumn months, but the bird is found scattering along through the winter months.

Black duck, or dusky duck.--This duck is very fine eating when fat and taken from the fresh water; but when the lakes and ponds are covered with ice, they betake themselves to the salt waters, when their flesh assumes a fishy flavor, and becomes rather dry eating. They appear in our markets in the months of September, October, November, and December. In the two latter months they are frequently found in the best condition, and are highly esteemed. I have seen them scattering along until May.

Wood duck, or summer duck.--This most beautiful species of the wild duck confines itself entirely to the fresh water, where it is more or less shaded by trees and bushes, although sometimes it will alight on trees (the only species of duck that do so), generally on the limbs that are quite bare or dead. Its principal food are insects, seeds, and plants, which render its flesh excellent eating, without the fishy flavor so objectionable to many. They are not so large as the black duck. Many are taken alive in nets, and often sent to Europe to be kept either for breed or ornament. In season in the months of August, September, October, and a few stragglers in November.

A beautiful male duck of this species was shown at the Horticultural and Agricultural Fair held by the American Institute in September, 1860. Some two or three were purchased at Boston by Mr. Simpson, of Westchester County,


View page [153]
N. Y., who tamed them so as to eat out of hand, and this one was exhibited at this Fair, where it attracted much attention.

Bald-pate, or American widgeon.--This duck, when taken feeding with the canvas-back, or rather stealing from them their food (wild celery), are excellent. When the canvas-back rises from the bottom, they snatch the delicious morsel, and then make off. Their flesh then is considered of an excellent flavor, and much esteemed. Found in season in the months of October, November, and December, but best in the two latter.

Broad-bill, blue-bill, or scaup duck.--This bird is common in our markets in their season, which commences about the 1st of October, and continues until the severe cold drives it further South. When fat, the flesh is much esteemed. Another called,

Creek broad-bill, or lesser scaup duck, is closely allied to the preceding, but inferior in size; about the same quality and season. And still another broad-bill, called

Bastard broad-bill, ring-necked, or tufted duck, is much like the broad-bill, except the slate-colored markings on the wings. They are not at all plenty, but found scattering in the spring and fall months. They are considered good eating when found fat in the fall months.

Blue-winged teal.--This small duck, it is said, is the first of its tribe that returns to us in the autumn from the North. Their flesh is excellent, as they feed chiefly on vegetable food, when they become very fat. They are here in season in September, October, and November.

Green-winged teal.--This little duck, like the two preceding, is a fresh-water duck, and feeds upon the same kinds of food. If there is any difference in the eating qualities of these two teal, I should give it in favor of this little duck. It is quite common in our markets in September, October, November, and December, and scattering in January.

View page [154]

"A good shot" is noticed in the Philadelphia Gazette, October, 1822, which states that "Mr. Hart of the Lazaretto Inn, opposite Tinicum Island, on Friday afternoon (4th inst.), started sixteen teal, and, with one shot, killed fifteen of the number--a circumstance which is, perhaps, unprecedented in this species of sport. They all proved to be very fine and fat."

Pintail duck, winter duck, sprig-tail duck.--This duck is found more plentifully at the West than here, although we have them some seasons in large numbers in the fall months, and scattering in the first winter months. Its flesh is very savory and quite tender.

Gray duck, Welsh drake, German duck, or gadwall.--This is a beautiful and rather scarce duck here, but, when found, its flesh will give the epicure perfect satisfaction. The sportsman finds it a difficult bird to kill, on account of its expertness in diving; it is said, however, that it has been successfully domesticated.

Shoveller, or spoonbill.--This handsome duck is by many highly prized for the table, as its flesh is tender, juicy, and delicate. The bill of this bird is peculiarly shaped and very large, being about three inches in length, of a black color, and much the widest towards the extremity, which gives it somewhat the appearance of a shovel, and is, no doubt, the origin or cause of its name. The whole bird is beautifully marked, and is in season in April, and again in the fall months, but rather scarce.

Weaser, buff-breasted merganser, or goosander.-Three of these beautiful ducks I had the pleasure of seeing in the possession of Mr. Abraham Snediker, a dealer in game-birds, Washington Market, on the 22d of January, 1856. He said they went by the name of "weasers." They were very fat and heavy. Its flesh is best in the fall and winter; in the spring it becomes oily and rancid.

Harlequin duck.--This handsomely-marked duck is rarely seen in our markets. It is known by some sportsmen as the "Lord" and "Brass-eyed Whistler." It is highly


View page [155]
spoken of for the table by those who have partaken of its flesh. The only one I have ever seen was among the collections of Mr. John G. Bell, the noted taxidermist, of New York, to whom I am much indebted for information in relation to some birds and game animals.

Whistler, or golden-eye duck.--This duck is called by many "Great-head," from its beautiful, rich, and thickly-crested head. In the month of November its flesh is considered fine, and of an agreeable flavor, as it then generally feeds in fresh water. At other seasons its flesh is strong and fishy.

Salt-water teal, or ruddy duck.--This appears to be a scarce duck here; but they are sometimes found here in the months of September and October, when it is fat and its flesh very savory.

Dipper, butter-ball, or buffel-headed duck.--This duck is found very fat throughout the winter, when their flesh is quite savory, but somewhat fishy, as its food consists of small fish. In season from October to March.

Old wife, old squaw, long-tailed duck.--This is a plentiful bird in our markets in the winter and spring seasons. The general character of its flesh is tough, strong, and fishy; but the young bird, when fat and properly cooked, is very fine eating. It is usually sold at low prices.

Squaw duck, shoal duck, or cider duck.--This is a scarce species here, as it belongs to a more northern latitude; but it is sometimes taken here in severe winters. Its flesh is quite oily and fishy, but its down is of a superior quality, and valuable.

One of this species was shot in 1859, in the Miscomet Pond, Manchester, N. H., upon whose tongue a large muscle had fixed with a firm grasp. "The duck had probably seized upon the open muscle for a meal, and his muscleship, not liking such treatment, had closed his shell upon the tongue of the duck, and was thus torn from his bed. The instinct of the duck had probably led him to seek the fresh water, for the purpose of making him relax


View page [156]
his grasp, as these fowls are never found in fresh-water ponds."

Skunk duck, sand-shoal duck, or pied duck--This is another scarce species here, and only seen in the months of March and October. The flesh is dry, and rather of a fishy flavor, after the nature of its food, which appears to be shell-fish.

Saw-bill, shell-drake, hairy-head, or hooded merganser.--This species of the wild duck is sometimes very plenty, and is little thought of for the table. In season in the fall and winter months.

Pied shell-drake, or red-breasted merganser.--This duck is not so numerous as the preceding, but of about the same season and qualities for the table. It is also known by some as the "whistler duck."

White-winged coot, or velvet duck.--This is a very indifferent bird for the table; its flesh is dark-colored, strong, tough, and fishy, as they feed entirely on shell-fish. The young birds, however, are much better eating. In season from October to April.

Surf duck, spectacle duck.--This duck is like the preceding species: its flesh is coarse, tough, and fishy. They are generally shot for the sport. In the markets, this and the preceding go by the name of "poor folks' birds." In season through the winter and spring months.

Hell-divers, or horned grebe.--These little ducks are found quite plentiful, but are seldom used as food on account of the poor quality of their flesh, although I have known some to say they were good eating when very fat and killed in fresh water.

American scoter, coot, (Eastern States as the) butter-bill.--This is another of the almost worthless "coots" for the table, although the same may be said of the young as of the preceding. It is, however, said, that "all these fishy-flavored birds, in the times when the use of flesh was prohibited with great strictness during Lent, were


View page [157]
decided by the ecclesiastical authorities to be a sort of fish which might be eaten with umpunity."

Loon, or great Northern diver.--These large divers are sometimes found in our markets, and generally find purchasers among amateurs for their collections. Their flesh is of the poorest eating, being very tough and rank. I have seen them weigh above nine pounds.

The Commercial Advertiser, May 22, 1820, notices, in the news from Marietta, "that forty-four loons were taken at one haul with the seine, at the fishery of Haines & Breneman, about one mile above Marietta.

"The loon is a water-fowl, about the size of a Muscovy duck. It appears to be peculiarly adapted to the watery element, and is said to subsist on fish; its bill is long and picked, and its tail beneath the legs; the legs are placed in an admirable position for swimming, which, it appears, is the principal use to which they can be applied. It is said that this fowl is so expert in diving, that, at the distance of thirty yards, they cannot be shot by the best marksmen; and, during the season, they shed their feathers and are unable to fly."

The same paper, one year after (May 5, 1821), has, in the Stockbridge, Mass., news (May 3), the following:

"CURIOUS FACT.--One day last week, a son of Mr. John Ball, of Lee, shot a loon, which weighed thirteen pounds. A fish was taken out of the loon's mouth, that weighed one pound and ten ounces, all of which, except the tail, it had swallowed."

A singular circumstance occurred to the steamer Oregon, on her passage from Stonington to New York, on the morning of the 29th of April, 1847. "While off Huntington, one of her injection pipes suddenly became stopped, making the engine falter considerably. Mr. Lockwood, the assistant-engineer, observed the circumstance immediately, opened the spare injection-pipe, and directed the attention of the chief-engineer, Mr. Vanderbilt, to the stoppage of the other one. Mr. Vanderbilt supposed the stoppage was occasioned


View page [158]
by the boat going over some seaweed, and would soon get clear again. It not doing so, however, he examined the cause of the stoppage when the boat arrived at New York. After taking off the injection valve and a portion of the pipe, he found in it, tight up against the guard of the valve, a large (loon) duck, weighing seven pounds, which had been drawn into it by the force of the vacuum created by the engine. Mr. Vanderbilt thinks that the duck must have dived when the boat approached it, as, when it was found, its head was downward, with its back towards the bow of the vessel."* The duck was stuffed as a curiosity, and afterwards presented to Barnum for his Museum, but was burnt up, with many thousands of curiosities, many of which can never be replaced.

BIRDS CALLED GAME,

[Illustration: An illustration of a wild turkey.]

And others, which are found in our markets.

Wild turkey. This fine bird is occasionally found in our markets, in its season--generally in the months of November, December, and January. They are chiefly sent from Pennsylvania, and sometimes further west, arriving here in a frozen state. The flesh of a fine young wild turkey is darker, and considered more delicate,


View page [159]
more succulent, and better, or more gamey tasted than that of the tame turkey. They are in the best condition in the month of November. When found in our markets they have all their feathers on. The bill is short and thick, head small in proportion to the body; half of the neck (especially of the male bird) is covered with a naked, bluish skin, on which are a number of red, wart-like lumps. On the lower part of the neck, near the breast, is a fleshy substance, full of long, black, coarse hair. The feathers are of a glossy dark color, almost black, with bronze spots on the wings and tail. Their usual weight is from nine to twenty pounds, but I have read of their weighing above forty pounds. The "Commercial Advertiser," September 9, 1801, notices--"A remarkable large wild turkey, weighing twenty-two pounds dressed, was shot, on the 1st inst., by G. L. Barret, within a short distance of Mr. Scriba's seat, Newark, N.J." We also find in Archdale's North Carolina, that in the year 1707, was purchased "a wild turkey of forty pounds, for the value of two-pence, English value."

[Editorial note: The following note appears on the bottom of page 158 in the original text.]

*Commercial Advertiser, April 30, 1847.

NOTE--For the above representation of the wild turkey, and three other illustrations used in this work, I am much indebted to the editors of the "American Agriculturist," whose volumes teem with useful and interesting matter of all kinds.--EDITOR.

Partridge, pheasant, or ruffed grouse.--These excellent birds are found in great plenty in our markets, from about the 1st of September to the 1st of January; but they are best, especially the chicken partridge, in October and November, although they are found earlier and later. They are smuggled in by "poachers" and "pot-hunters," to avoid the proper "game laws," who then sell them under the name of owls, or some other fictitious name, to others, who also regard no law where taste is consulted or money to be made. These wholesome "game laws" were made not only for the protection of birds, etc., but also for the protection of our citizens, when such birds were out of season, and known to be unfit, unwholesome, and even poisonous. In very cold winters, and particularly heavy snow-storms, the partridge should not be eaten, as they are then deprived of their ordinary food, become thin, poor, and starved, and are forced to feed upon the leaves of the poisonous evergreens. They have been found with their crops


View page [160]
filled with the green laurel, and in that state their flesh is considered unfit to be eaten. There are many instances of persons having been poisoned by eating them in these improper seasons.

It is said that we have no partridge or pheasant in this country, that they are all grouse; the reason they give is that they are all feathered on the legs below the termination of the thigh, and some quite to the toe-nails. The partridge, or ruffed grouse, is feathered below the knee; and the prairie hen, or pinnated grouse, as also the Canada grouse, is feathered down to the ankles. The flesh of the partridge is tender, fine flavored, and generally much esteemed.

Prairie-hen, heath-hen, prairie-chicken, or pinnated grouse.--This fine game-bird is somewhat the color, form, and size of the partridge, but more regularly marked, or barred, on the breast. The tail feathers are fun-like, but quite short and thick, and the neck has on each side a feathery mane hanging down. Prior to 1830, this bird was quite plentiful on Long Island, as well as deer, but since that period the grouse have entirely disappeared, and the few deer left are protected by law.

The "Suffolk Gazette," March 25, 1805, gives us some facts in a few verses of poetry:

"Here on Smith's Point we take our stand,

When free from toil's gymnastics,

Where death and lead go hand in hand,

Among the fowl at Mastic.

"The grouse, the pheasant, and the quail,

In turn we take by changes,

Or hunt the buck with flippant tail,

As thro' the wood he ranges."

The "Gazette," of the 16th November, 1821, also says: "A very fine pair of grouse, from Long Island, were offered in our markets for five dollars."

A few years later, 1826, I have known these birds to bring eight and ten dollars per pair; and thirty-five years after--


View page [161]
1861--I bought then as low as thirty-eight cents, and several times at fifty cents per pair. About the year 1827, a few pairs were occasionally brought from Pennsylvania, which Niblo would generally purchase, and then announce that he had secured a few pairs, when the epicures either purchased from him or eat his "game dinners," which were duly announced.

Within the last fifteen years they have been brought from the West-Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, etc.--in large numbers, in fact, so large as to create a glut in the winter and early spring months. They begin to arrive in October, and continue until the month of April; usually brought in barrels and other packages in a frozen state. Their flesh is quite dark, but from a young fat bird it is excellent eating; and when purchasing select the heaviest as the best, at the same time try the feathers around the vent; if they pull easily they are apt to be too stale; the nose must also be brought into use to detect the least unpleasant smell.

Sharp-tailed grouse.--This fine bird is sometimes found with the prairie hen, in the quantities sent here. The color is nearly the same, but the markings are not so regular on the breast, being scolloped-like; the tail feathers are shorter, except two or more in the centre, which are slim and about one inch longer; and all except these are tipped with white. The feathers on the legs are also shorter. They are also excellent eating.

Spruce partridge or Canada grouse.--This is a rare bird and seldom or never found in our markets; but they are, nevertheless, sent or brought to our city in small numbers from Maine, Massachusetts, the Canadas, etc. The back feathers are of a very dark gray color, with a fan-tail, tipped with light brown, and the breast has several black and white feathers mottled together. The flesh is dark, and only fit to be eaten when it feeds on berries. In winter it feeds on leaves and plants, when the flesh becomes bitter, and has sometimes a strong, disagreeable taste, as if cooked in turpentine.

View page [162]

Willow grouse, or white grouse.--At first sight this very rare bird appears like a white pigeon, with its winter plumage on. In summer it changes to quite a brownish red, and mottled in the spring and fall months, but always with a few dark or black feathers on the sides of the tail. About the size of the partridge, but not so fine eating.

Cock of the plains, or sage cock.--This is another rare bird, and a great deal larger than the preceding birds; it is said that the average weight of a full-grown bird is above ten pounds. Travellers give it the name of sage cock in consequence of the taste of its flesh, from the fact that it feeds principally upon a species of wormwood or artemisia, which grows plentifully on the great Western plains. It is a beautiful large-breasted gray bird, especially the cock, when in full plumage.

California quail.--We occasionally meet with this pretty and somewhat smaller-bodied bird than our common quail, but quite as good eating. It is covered with a dark blue, and gray or steel-looking feathers, with white-tipped feathers interspersed on the lower part of the breast. The male and female have black plumes on their heads; the male's plume bends gracefully over towards its bill: it has also a line of white feathers, which look like a wreath hanging around its neck, commencing from the back of the eye and running down on the breast about one and a half inches. While on the subject of scarce game, it would be well to introduce here several species of English game which are sometimes found here.

English pheasant.--These beautiful long, and sharp-tailed birds I have often seen for sale in the markets, and they are also occasionally sent to friends here from the other side. I saw a very fine pair of fresh-killed birds-both cocks-on sale, in Jefferson Market, which were raised on an island near Newport, Rhode Island, by Robert L. Maitland, Esq., of New York. He succeeded in raising the first birds from eggs, which were carefully brought from


View page [163]
England, and from these he has produced several broods. The price asked for this pair was ten dollars; and they weighed four and three-quarter pounds. The body of these beautiful birds are larger and longer than our partridge, and the flesh from a fine young one is considered its equal, although I must say, the conclusion from my experience was different. We eat them here under disadvantages: generally birds of the finest plumage, and of course "old birds," are sent to us, or they have been too long killed, and this cause may apply to all the English game. Best in September and October.

English partridge.--This bird somewhat resembles our quail, but about half as large again; and is considered for the table next only to the preceding.

Black cock, or black grouse. -- This black game-bird of England is almost as large as our partridge, and its flesh stands next in quality to the English partridge.

Red grouse, or moor cock.-- This bird is smaller and not so highly esteemed as the preceding, and is not found here so plenty, but in the "old country" it has many friends.

English woodcock. -- This bird is much like our woodcock, but much larger, and seldom found here.

The above are all the "English game" brought here, except hares and rabbits, which are larger and somewhat inferior eating than these species of America.

Quail. -- These fine game-birds (known at the South as partridge) are generally found in great plenty in our markets, in their season, except in cases where the preceding winters have been unusually stormy, cold, and the ground lay covered with snow a long time, by which many quail perish under snow-banks, or from starvation. Many in this frozen state are picked up and sent to our markets for sale. This, however, generally occurs late in such seasons, or when the game laws are against their use. The years following these severe seasons will sometimes show great scarcity, and very high prices are charged for these fine birds.

View page [164]

Many thousands are brought from the far West in a frozen state. As soon as the frosty weather sets in, the great slaughter of Western game takes place, and hundreds of boxes of quail and other game are sent from Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa, etc., for the eastern cities, where they arrive generally in good condition; however, those which are killed near by are to be preferred.

The flesh of the quail is white, tender, and delicate. One of the best-flavored game birds. Their size is about one-third of the partridge or ruffed grouse.

Woodcock. -- This highly prized bird is in season from the first of July to the first of November, and brings the highest price of any bird brought to our markets. Its flesh is no doubt the most delicate eating of all the birds known, and generally found best in the month of October. The head of the woodcock is large, and somewhat triangular, with the eye fixed high in the head, a great distance from its long bill, the body about the size of the quail, and a fine bird will weigh half a pound.

The largest woodcock found on record, was shot by Richard Tetley, in Washington township, New Jersey, in 1859. It measured in length from tail to beak, twelve and a quarter inches; width around the breast ten and a half inches; over the back three inches; height seven and three quarter inches; weight, one pound one ounce.

English snipe, common snipe, or Wilson's snipe. -- These birds, though small, are excellent eating when in condition. The richness and delicacy of their flesh is considered second only to that of the woodcock. Their bills are about twice as long as their head, neck short, legs slender, feet bluish gray, feathers brownish black on the back, below grayish yellow, and a much smaller bird than the woodcock. They are found in our markets from about the 20th of March to the 20th of April; then again, in (small numbers), in October.

Mr. J.T. Brownwere while hunting for snipe in a swamp, about three-quarters of a mile from Bushwick Ferry, L.L,


View page [165]
in the month of September, 1815, met with a Southern stranger, in the shape of an alligator. The press says: "While in the act of levelling his piece at a flock of snipes, he discovered the alligator within a few yards of the spot where he stood, making towards him, when he instantly lodged the contents of the piece in its throat and killed it."

Robin snipe, or red-breasted sandpiper. -- This red-breasted snipe is well known, and its flesh highly prized by many of our epicures as a great delicacy. Their season commences in April and May, and again in August, September, and October. The latter month they are considered best, and are then often known as white-robin snipe, in consequence of the light change of their feathers.

Gray plover, grass, field, or upland plover. -- The proper name of this much-esteemed game-bird appears to be Bartram's sandpiper. They are generally found in our markets in June, July, August, and September. It is considered best and most highly prized in the two latter months.

Frost plover, greenback, or golden plover. -- This delicious bird is known among many sportsmen and others as plover and frost-bird. They sometimes appear in numbers in the months of April and May, and then again in September and October, when they are in fine condition, their flesh well flavored, and sell quickly at high prices.

Ring plover, or ring-neck. -- This small bird appears quite numerous some seasons in our markets. Many are killed in the fall months, especially in September and October, when they are considered best for the table.

Beach bird, or piping plover. -- This bird is found scattering in season from April to October. In the months of September and October it gets very fat, when its flesh is excellent.

Brant bird, horse-foot snipe, or turnstone. -- This fine bird is much sought after by gunners, and is often found in large numbers for sale. It makes its appearance early in the months of April and May, and again in September


View page [166]
and October, when it is in fair condition and much esteemed.

Dowitcher, quail snipe, or red-breasted snipe. -- This bird appears in our markets in large numbers when in their season. They begin to show themselves in April and May, and then again from the 15th to the 20th of July, and so continue until the end of October. It appears in the best condition in September and October, but its flesh is not considered a delicacy, although well flavored.

Bull-headed or beetle-headed plover, black-bellied or whistling plover. -- This bird is generally quite plenty in our markets early in May, and then again in August and September. In the two latter months it is in a very fat condition, and its flesh quite well flavored.

Kildeer plover, -- This bird is generally known as kildeer. It is sometimes found in our markets in the months of July, August, and September, and when in good condition its flesh is considered good eating.

Sanderling, or ruddy plover. -- This small bird may be had in May, and then again in August, September, October, and November. It is generally fat and fine in the fall months, when it is much esteemed.

Marlin, or great marbled godwit. -- This large bird also enjoys the name of red curlew by some gunners. The flesh is quite tender and juicy, when in good condition. In season in May, and again from August to November.

Ring-tailed marlin, or Hudsonian godwit. -- This bird is not so plentiful as the preceding, but about the same quality for the table. The season the same.

Black-breasted snipe, winter snipe, or red-backed sandpiper. -- This small bird is sometimes found in great plenty. It first appears in our markets in April and May, and then again in September and October, when some give it the name of winter snipe, dunlin, ox-bird, and purries. It is then usually very fat, and excellent eating.

Buff-breasted sandpiper. -- This bird is rather


View page [167]
scarce, although a few are sometimes found tied up with the meadow snipe, for sale. Found in August and September, but more plenty, very fat and excellent, in October and November.

Long-legged sandpiper. -- This long-legged bird is not at all common in our markets, although some seasons several little "bunches" appear in the months of July, August, and September.

Meadow snipe, or pectoral sandpiper. -- This excellent bird is known by several different names in various places. Giraud says it is termed by bay-men short-neck; on the coast of New Jersey, fat-bird; and in Pennsylvania jack-snipe. A few are found in our markets in the month of May, but more plenty in August and September, and in a very fat condition in the months of October and November, when it is much sought after.

Yellow-legged snipe, or yellow-shank tattler. -- This is a common snipe, and well known to our sports-men. Some seasons they are quite plenty in April and May, and then again in August and September. I have shot them near Kingsbridge above thirty years ago, where they were occasionally found in large numbers. They are best in the fall months, but are not much esteemed for the table.

Greater yellow-legged snipe, or tell-tale tattler.--These birds are not so numerous as the preceding, but found generally earlier in the spring and later in the fall months. Their flesh is well flavored, and more esteemed in October and November.

Willet, or semi-palmated tattler. -- This bird appears early in the month of May, when it is considered a very fair bird for the table, but a more pleasing game-bird to the sportsman in the month of October. Many of this and other species are brought from the South in the oyster and other sailing vessels.

Blue-stocking, or American avocet. -- This blue-legged bird is also known on the Southern coast as the lawyer,


View page [168]
from whence it is occasionally brought by the coasting vessels. A few also are found here, brought from Long Island. They are not much esteemed for the table. In season early in May, and then again in October and November.

Lawyer, or black-necked stilt. -- Although this is a scarce bird here, yet they are, as the preceding, brought here in the oyster and fishing vessels, and, like all other rare or scarce species, are quickly bought up, if at all in a good condition, for the taxidermist or others. The season same as preceding.

Long-billed curlew, or sicle-billed curlew. -- This long arch-billed bird is often found in our markets in the spring and autumn months. But, like the short-billed, or jack curlew, their flesh is considered indifferent eating. In the fall months they are quite fat, but are not even then very well flavored.

In 1838 Daniel Fordham, of Southampton, Long Island, killed a curlew, which measured from the tip of the bill to the tip of the tail two feet three inches; from the tip of its wings, three feet five inches; length of the bill eight inches, and weighed one pound fourteen ounces.

Futes, or Esquimaux curlew. -- This bird in the Eastern States is called the doe-bird. The flesh when in a fat condition is well flavored, and the best of all the curlews.

Flood gull, or oyster catcher. -- This bird, although scarce, finds its way to our markets in the summer months. One of our oldest dealers (Suedicor) calls this bird flat-foot snipe, and also says that its flesh has not many admirers. Many agree with him on this point. Its flesh is dark-colored, and quite strong and unpalatable.

Seaside finch, or gray shore-finch. -- "Giraud" says: "This species is familiar to all our sportsmen who practise bay-shooting." It is sometimes found in our markets in the summer months, but its flesh is quite indifferent eating, being somewhat fishy.

View page [169]

Shore lark, or horned lark. -- This bird is also known by some as the sky-lark. "Wilson" says: "They are frequently brought to Philadelphia markets. They are generally very fat, and are considered excellent eating." In season, though scattering, nearly all the winter months, in some of our markets.

Brown lark. -- This species of the lark is not quite so plenty here as the preceding. Generally found here in the months of March, April, and May, when their flesh is said to be equal to the shore lark.

Semi-palmated sandpiper. -- These small birds generally appear in small quantities in our markets in the months of April and May, and then again quite plenty in September and October, when it is in fine condition and delicate eating.

Ox-eyes, little, or Wilson's sandpiper. -- This is a still smaller bird than the preceding, but more plentiful, and much better in flavor and juiciness. They are also best in the months of September and October.

Schinz's sandpiper. -- This bird, like many others, is no doubt scarce, but is occasionally found with others of its species in our markets along in the summer and autumn months.

Wood tattler, green-rump tattler, or solitary tattler. -- This pretty, trim bird is sometimes found, but generally in small quantities, in our market. It is said to be delicate eating. In season in May, and again in August and September.

Teeter-tail, tilt-up, or spotted sandpiper. -- These little birds are seldom brought to our markets in large quantities, although they remain on our shores and streams from April to November. They are a delicate morsel, when fat, which is in the fall months.

Sora, English, or Carolina rail. -- This trim-looking bird is seldom seen for sale, although it is much sought after, and some seasons it is found quite plenty by sportsmen in New Jersey. Its flesh is of an exceedingly delicate


View page [170]
flavor, and much enjoyed by epicures. In the best condition in September.

Meadow hen, or clapper rail. -- This bird is sometimes found in plenty in our markets, but not much sought after, although when in good condition it is very well tasted and tender. In the month of May it is generally quite poor and not well flavored, but usually fine and fat in the months of September and October. Their eggs are more highly prized by some than their flesh, and thousands are found in the salt grass.

Virginia rail, fresh-water marsh, or little mud-hen. Occasionally this bird appears in our markets in the months of April and May, and then again in September and October; its flesh is not very delicate, but considered best in the fall months.

Blue water-hen -- Virginia water-hen. -- This water bird (it is said) is brought principally from Virginia to our markets. I have seen in Fulton Market (December 31st, 1855) several of these birds in very good condition, which were called Virginia water-hens. Their color was of a dirty blue, the tips of the centre feathers of the wings were white, as also the under side of the tail feathers; legs dark green, and about half web-footed; the head had the appearance of a young pullet.

American coot, hen-bill, mud-hen. -- This bird is often killed by sportsmen, but seldom sent to market, as it is quite inferior eating. It is, however, sometimes seen there, in the fall months, for sale.

Black gull, or black tern. -- This species, as well as many of its varieties, are occasionally found in our markets for sale: I should suppose not so much for the table as for the collectors. The flesh of the black tern is considered better tasted and more palatable than any of its species, in consequence of its food being collected near the fresh-water streams. "Giraud" says: "The flesh of the gulls and terns not being considered suitable for the table, they escape the torture to which birds of a more delicately-flavored flesh


View page [171]
are subjected. Still, they are not entirely exempt from persecution, as there are those who fancy a gull's egg an exceedingly delicate morsel.

"The Florida Keys, which are the breeding-places for great numbers of gulls and terns of various species, are resorted to annually by 'eggers' -- persons who make a business of collecting the eggs of these marine birds" -- and those known to be fresh are taken to the West Indies, where they are by many highly esteemed. "The fishermen, I am told, make free use of the eggs; those of some species, they say, are exceedingly well tasted, affording palatable and nourishing fare."

Great blue heron or crane. -- This long-legged, long-necked, and long-billed bird, I have often seen when brought to our markets, but presumed it was brought more for the curious than for the table. Although a large, awkward, coarse bird, it is said by some of my friends, that when young and in good condition its flesh is well flavored, and not coarse, as its appearance would indicate. Best in the fall months.

"SINGULAR PHENOMENON. -- A gentleman residing at Hoboken, N.J., informs us that great numbers of woodcock have been destroyed by a flock of cranes, which have infested that neighborhood during the present week. For the veracity of the gentleman from whom this intelligence is derived, we will vouch." -- "Commercial Advertiser," June 20, 1807.

Quak, night heron, or black-crowned heron. -- Although this bird is seldom seen in our markets, yet it is often shot and eaten, and I believe much better for the table than the preceding, as it feeds more upon frogs, mice, etc,. or I may say, that it lives more upon "fresh meat than on salt." Many years ago, they appeared to be more plenty than they are at present.

White poke, snowy heron, or white-crested heron. -- This also is a scarce bird in our markets, like many other beautiful, rare, or scarce birds, which are


View page [172]
previously engaged and kept for those who are daily looking after them for their collections. The young are best when in condition, in the fall months.

Green heron, schyte-poke, or fly-up-the-creek. -- This is a common bird in most of our creeks, and sometimes finds its way to our markets; its flesh, when in condition, is very well flavored, and considered best in the fall months.

A friend of mine on a hunting excursion in New Jersey, had shot several of these birds along the edge of one of the fresh-water streams, which he found were very fine and fat, and he bagged them; he, however, came suddenly upon one which did not take wing, but sat quite motionless: he advanced towards it with the expectation of finding it a dead bird, set-up; he saw it move and he shot it: when he picked it up, he found that it must have been in the act of swallowing a cat-fish, when its two sharp horns had got crossways in its throat, where the points had run through each side; which, no doubt, had closed its throat from all other food, and when thus found, it was so poor and exhausted that it could not fly. He informs me that the taste of their flesh is much like that of the meadow lark, Indian hen, American bittern, or look-up. This bird, though common, is not numerous. On the sea-coast of New Jersey, it is known by the name of dunkadoo, a word probably imitative of its common note. It is said to be excellent eating when fat, and is generally so in the fall months.

Wild pigeon, or passenger pigeon, and wild squabs. -- These numerous birds are found in our markets, both alive and dead, very plenty, and generally cheap in the latter part of September and October; they are also found in less numbers through the winter months.

Great numbers are taken alive with nets, cooped up for several weeks, and fed with grain until fat, then brought to our markets as the prices advance; while those that are brought dead have been shot from off the "spar," and sent here at the time of their "flying," which takes place generally


View page [173]
in the month of March, when they are going north, and then again in the fall, about the 15th to the 25th September, when they leave for the Southern climate. Large numbers of the old birds and squabs are sent here from the "West," where they are killed or taken alive at their "roosts." The wild squabs, when fat fresh, are very delicate eating; the cooped bird is also good, the flesh being rather dry; but a poor wild-pigeon is very indifferent eating, even if well and properly cooked. They are found best in the months of September and October.

I have often enjoyed the sport of taking the wild pigeon, both with the "net" and shooting them from the "spar." A few days previous to their usual flight, a "bough-house" is made by placing cedar bushes in the ground, in a circle, large enough for one or two persons to go behind or out of sights. A "floor" is then prepared by levelling the ground about twenty feet square -- say from fifteen to twenty yards from the "bough house;" then, on the left side of this "floor," four crotched sticks are also driven in the ground; the two nearest the "bough-house" are placed quite close together, or about one foot apart, and the other two some fifteen feet further off, and some three or four feet apart, ranging a little higher than the two first, on a line from the "bough-house," when two poles, of about twenty feet long, are placed on these crotched sticks. The further end of he poles should set high enough, that when the pigeons alight they can be all seen from the "bough-house." A pigeon-stool is then driven in the ground near the "floor," but so as not to be covered when the "net" is sprung. The "stool-pigeon," is blinded by drawing under the eyelids over the eyeballs, so that the bird cannot see, and his feet and legs tied with a woollen slip-noose fast to the stool, when he is ready for action. A "flyer-pigeon" (and sometimes two or three), are also blinded, and their legs tied to a fishing line, sixty or one hundred feet long. The net being large enough to cover the "floor," is fastened to a strong rope, one end being fastened in the "bough-house," and the other end


View page [174]
carried beyond the "floor," also firmly fastened to a stake. The net is drawn back from off the "floor," and fastened with a trap, when, by a strong pull on the rope in the "bough-house," the net flies quickly over, and covers the whole "floor." This ground-floor is covered with buck-wheat or rye-grain.

As soon as a flock of pigeons is discovered at a distance of five or six hundred yards, the "flyer" is thrown up, and flies to the length of his line, then hovers down to the ground, as if in the acct of alighting. By this time, the flock being within one hundred yards, the "stool-pigeon" is gently raised by means of a line leading into the "bough-house," when the "stool-pigeon" is left quiet, and the flock discovers the grain.

If the flock pitches on the "floor," a strong pull and they are covered; then hast to the net, and, if a large flock, stones must be placed on the edges to keep them down, or they would raise it up and escape. They are then taken out as quickly as possible, ready for another flock, placed in a large flat baskets prepared for this business. If, however, they are a small flock -- say from thirty to fifty -- and they alight on the spars, then the gun is brought to bear, which sometimes sweeps them all off. I have known fifty-killed at one shot. I chanced to kill seventeen with one barrel, and thought I was doing considerable in that line.

The largest number taken in a net, I have ever heard or read of, was noticed in one of the Detroit papers -- the Owosso American -- in the year 1858, which says: "Mr. Merritt on Wednesday last, caught, at one haul of his net, six hundred and forty-eight wild pigeons."

In the seasons of "great flights," thousands are brought to our markets; and, in "olden time," above one hundred years ago, they were sold very cheap. I find, from the


View page [175]
New York Mercury -- "One day last week, upwards of seventy-five thousand pigeons were brought to the market, insomuch that fifty were sold for one shilling."

The Boston Weekly Post-boy, May 2,1771, says: "The great numbers of pigeons that have been brought to our market within the fortnight past has greatly reduced the prices of all kinds of provisions. It is said that nearly fifty thousand were sold in one day."

Turtle-dove, or Carolina pigeon. -- This bird is smaller, but much like the wild-pigeon in general appearance. Its flesh is much superior to that bird, and found best in the months of August and September. They are seldom found for sale in our markets, except in a living state.

Robin, or red-breasted thrush. -- Large numbers of these well-known birds are found in our markets, and thousands are also shot by all sorts of sportsmen, in the months of September and October, when they are fat and delicate eating. Again, in the spring months, they return to the North, when some are guilty of shooting them, who ought not to be encouraged by any one purchasing them, as they are then "pairing off." I, however, think that these birds are more useful to man living than dead.

Meadow-larks, or meadow-starlings. -- These yellow-breasted birds I have often shot in the neighborhood of the present Twenty-fourth street, New York (and, I believe, lower down), both on the North and East River sides of New York, many years ago. The white flesh of a young fat bird is almost as good as the quail, but not so plump or large. The feathers on the back and head are a sort of grayish-brown, while those on the breast and under are yellow, spotted with black. In the fall months they are in the best condition.

High-hole, clape, or golden-winged woodpecker. -- This handsome bird is common in our markets in the fall months, when it is fat, and its flesh quite savory, but not so tender as the robin. Along in the month of


View page [176]
June, I have seen the squab high-hole in our markets, looking like a very small morsel of food, which perhaps a sick person might relish; but as for the nourishment, I should think there was a very small quantity. In fact, it is a cruelty to take such birds from their nests, without it was to save human life. These birds are fond of wild cherries, pepperage, or gumberries; from the trees which the latter grow on I have shot hundreds -- sometimes as many as twenty to thirty from off one tree, in an afternoon.

Red headed woodpecker. -- This is not a common bird, but is often killed in our State, and is quite as good eating as the golden-winged woodpecker, but smaller.

Oriole, or Baltimore oriole. -- Although this beautiful bird is often seen on sale, yet they should never be purchased except for a collection. They are of so much value to the fruit-grower or farmer that they should never allow them to be shot on their premises, as I am told they are the only bird that eats the destructive curculio, besides many other fruit-destroyers. Their nests are very artistically formed, being somewhat like a pocket hanging down from the limbs of trees. They are beautiful as well as valuable.

White snow-bird, ortolans, or snow bunting. -- Its season with us begins with December, but is much fatter and better in January and February, when its flesh is much admired by the epicure.

Lark and lark bunting. -- Giraud, in his "Birds of Long Island," says: "In the winter of 1838, several specimens of this bird were observed in the New York markets, having been shot on Long Island." No doubt, its flesh is equal to the preceding, being of the same species and habits.

Blackbirds. -- There appears to be four species of these birds which are occasionally found in our markets -- the cow-bunting, crow, red-wing, and the rusty gracle -- all somewhat different in their colors and nature, but all are called blackbirds. One curious fact in relation to the cow-bunting


View page [177]
is, that it never builds a nest or hatches its eggs. It lays its eggs in the nests of other birds, who hatch out the young and feed them. They are small, but sweet-fleshed. Many are found along about the first of April, then again in September, October, and November, when they come from the North in very large flocks, from which great numbers are killed at a single shot.

Reed-birds, rice-bunting, rice-birds or bobalinks. -- These little fat birds, when brought dead and picked to market, are usually called reed-birds, of which large quantities are sold, tied up in bunches, like so many pieces of fat strung together. Large numbers are found in the Philadelphia markets, as it is quite near their feeding-places. They are commonly known in Philadelphia as reed-birds, in Charleston as rice-birds, and North, in the summer months, when alive, as the bobalink (see bob