PREFACE.

IN submitting this book to the public, the author carries out a long-cherished purpose, which had its inception in a suggestion made to her by the Hon. John Eaton, United-States Commissioner of Education, during a discussion concerning the cookery of America. The fact that the cookery of Europe, and especially of France, enters so largely into the author's scheme of teaching, and of constructing her books already published, was being commented upon; and in response to her statement that this was occasioned by the demands of the public, and not from any lack of variety or excellence in American cookery, the commissioner suggested the preparation of a work sufficiently broad in scope and minute in detail to verify her assertion that genuine American cookery is both wholesome and palatable, and has lost none of the traditional excellence which characterized it in our grandmothers' days.

To facilitate the work, the commissioner caused the publication and extended circulation of the following correspondence:--

To the HON. JOHN EATON, U.S. Commissioner of Education, Bureau of Education, Dept. of the Interior, Washington, D.C.

DEAR SIR,--I venture to ask your help in an educational matter of general public interest, and trust you will afford me such assistance as lies in your power.

I have been, as you are aware, engaged for the past four years in the training of young women and girls in domestic economy, numbering among my pupils many ladies of our most prominent families. The results of this instruction have so successfully covered the local field of cookery in the North- eastern States, that I am in receipt of many communications urging me to adapt some of my special methods to the Southern and Western portions of the country. In consequence of marked social changes attendant on the civil war, a radical alteration is taking place in this department. In doing this work, I desire to combine rudimentary economical principles with the culinary excellence of local dishes. In order to proceed intelligently, I must depend largely on the kindness of persons best informed in regard to the specialties of the local market supply, and of such dishes as hold popular favor.

In connection with this subject I venture to apply to you. Will you please aid me in communicating with these persons, in order, (1) that I may consult them in regard to the desirableness of establishing cooking-schools, and (2) that I may ask them for information concerning the following points:--

1. Definite lists of the principal foods in local use, and their average market prices. 2. Accurate recipes for the preparation of such materials in popular dishes. 3. Recipes for favorite local dishes, and their names. 4. General information bearing on the subject.

I shall consider such information of the greatest value to me in the preparation of the work I propose to issue, not for the use of families only, but also for the guidance of instructors in cooking in different parts of the country.

With assurances of high esteem, I am

Respectfully yours,

JULIET CORSON,

Superintendent New-York School of Cookery.

OFFICE OF THE NEW-YORK SCHOOL OF COOKERY,

UNION SQUARE, NEW YORK, Aug. 1878.

Upon the receipt of Miss Corson's letter, Gen. Eaton caused the following circular letter to be issued from the Bureau of Education, and generally circulated throughout the country; addressing it to the heads of educational institutions, and to all persons of local prominence who seemed likely to be able to supply the information called for by Miss Corson:--

SIR,--I beg to call your attention to the enclosed copy of a letter received from Miss Juliet Corson, the superintendent of the New-York School of Cookery. I hope you may be able to make some valuable suggestions for her on one or more topics of special importance to her work.

Miss Corson's ability, culture, wisdom in forming and executing her plans, her eminent qualifications in the theory and practice of cooking, and her success in organizing and conducting the school in New-York City and in preparing manuals upon the subject of cooking, give the best possible assurance that whatever information you can afford her upon points of her inquiry will be advantageously used.

Any suggestions you may make for her use can be sent to this office in the enclosed envelope, and will be forwarded to her.

Very respectfully yours,

JOHN EATON, Commissioner,Per C. W.

DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR, BUREAU OF EDUCATION,

WASHINGTON, D.C., Aug. 31, 1878.

The material which came in response to this correspondence was abundant. The author has augmented it in the spring and fall lecture and lesson tours she has taken to many parts of the country during the intervening years; she has also availed herself of recipes communicated to her by personal friends, and drawn from local and private collections. Like every person absorbed in the advancement of a special line of work, she has appropriated every hint offered her: the only personal credit to which she is entitled is for the scrupulous fidelity with which she has tested the methods given, and verified every statement which she makes. If the directions seem verbose, the fact must be remembered that the greater number of cookery-books fail to meet the demands of housewives, because they are indefinite; and they are especially trying to those who have yet to gain the judgment and experience which too many writers on domestic subjects seem to take for granted. The author aims, above all, to be clear and precise; to give such simple methods that a person of the most ordinary intelligence can follow them. She guarantees that the promised results will always be attained if the directions are closely adhered to; the only latitude allowed is in the matter of seasoning, which is left more or less to the judgment of the cook, who must be guided by the taste of those for whom she caters. And in regard to the use of wine, in this last question, the author suggests that where the use of wine is not desirable, some dish should be chosen into the composition of which it does not enter; because, unless it is so definitely stated in the recipe, there is no flavoring or seasoning which can replace it without altering the character of the dish. There are many delicious dishes which require no wine,--so many, indeed, that the author has repeatedly offered to supply to any temperance society which would publish it, a good Temperance Cookery-Book, the use of which would do much to advance the cause whose advocates urge her to espouse it, forgetting that, as a teacher of cookery, she is not at liberty to accept or reject any available edible substance because of personal preference or disapproval. Of the engravings, some are original; the rest are copied from the works of the best European writers on cookery.

In conclusion, the author begs a cordial reception for this book in the name of the Forest City Housewife and her sister host of culinary experts whose best knowledge and perfected experience it embodies.

NEW YORK, 1886.

CONTENTS. PART I. CHAPTER I.THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR. PAGE The Kitchen.................... I The Pantry..................... 5 The Refrigerator............... 7 The Cellar..................... 9 The Care of Milk and But-ter............................ II CHAPTER II.MARKETING. The Preparation of Meat forMarket........................ 17 Good Points in Meats.......... 20 Beef.......................... 22 Veal.......................... 25 Lamb.......................... 28 Mutton........................ 30 Pork.......................... 32 Poultry....................... 34 Game-Birds.................... 36 Game.......................... 36 Fish.......................... 37 Vegetables and Fruit.......... 38 Dairy Products and Groce-ries.......................... 39 CHAPTER III.METHODS OF COOKING. Roasting...................... 40 Baking........................ 42 Broiling...................... 44 Frying........................ 45 Boiling....................... 46 Steaming...................... 47 Braising...................... 47 Blanching..................... 48 Glazing and Gliding........... 48 Larding and Daubing........... 48 Barding....................... 49 Boning........................ 49 CHAPTER IV.CARVING. PAGE Whole Fish.................... 52 Head and Shoulders of Fish.... 53 Fish Larded and Baked......... 54 Half Large Boiled Fish........ 54 Whole Turbot Garnished........ 55 Poultry....................... 56 Larded Fowl................... 57 To Carve Roast Turkey......... 58 Turkey Partly Boned........... 59 How to Carve Ducks............ 59 How to Carve Roast Goose...... 60 Game-Birds.................... 61 Meats......................... 62 Mutton Boned and Stuffed...... 62 Saddle of Mutton Larded....... 63 Round of Beef................. 64 Sirloin of Beef............... 64 Ribs or Sirloin of Beef Boned. 65 Beef-Tongues Garnished........ 66 Roast Ham..................... 67 Cold Ham with Aspic Jelly..... 67 Hand or Leg of Young Pork..... 68 Saddle of Venison............. 68 Larded Saddle of Venison...... 69 Larded Shoulder of Venison.... 70 Barded Hare................... 70 Larded Hare................... 71 CHAPTER V.THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS FITTINGS. A Very Simple Dining-Room.......................... 74 Decorative Art the Reflex of Nature........................ 76 Sideboards and Tables......... 77 Decorations of China andPlate......................... 79 Chairs for the Dining-Room.... 81 Windows and Draperies......... 81 Light in the Dining-Room...... 82 Dining-Room Floors............ 83 Sawdust Scrubbing............. 84 Dry Scrubbing with Sand....... 84 How to Prepare Floors forOiling and Staining........... 85 Oiling Hard-Wood Floors....... 85 Polishing Hard-Wood Floors.... 86 Staining Wooden Floors........ 86 Sizing Stained Floors......... 87 Varnishing Stained Floors..... 87 Black Varnish for Wood........ 87 Painted Floors................ 88 CHAPTER VI.THE DINNER-TABLE AND ITS APPOINTMENTS. Tablecloths................... 90 Table-Napkins................. 92 Washing Table-Linen........... 94 Silver and Cutlery............ 95 China and Glass............... 99 CHAPTER VII.LAYING AND SERVING THE TABLE. CHAPTER VIII.FLOWERS, BILLS OF FARE, AND WINES. PAGE Flowers at Table............ 110 Menus, or Bills of Fare..... 112 The Service of Dishes....... 116 The English Dinner-Service.. 119 The Service of Dinner à laRusse....................... 121 The Dinner-Service asShown on Menu Cards......... 122 Menu........................ 123 English Bill of Fare for Din-ner à la Russe........ 124 The American Dinner......... 125 Bill of Fare for AmericanDinner...................... 128 Bill of Fare................ 129 Dinner Wines................ 130 CHAPTER IX.THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS. CHAPTER X.THE ETIQUETTE OF VARIOUS ENTERTAINMENTS. Large Breakfasts............ 142 Bill of Fare................ 144 The Family Breakfast........ 144 Family Luncheon............. 146 Luncheon Parties............ 147 Bill of Fare................ 148 Afternoon Receptions........ 149 Afternoon Teas.............. 150 Family Teas................. 152 Gentlemen's Suppers......... 152 Supper Parties.............. 153 Evening Parties............. 154 Cindrella Parties........... 154 Card Parties................ 155 Calling During Entertain-ments....................... 155 New Year's Receptions....... 155 Wedding Receptions and Breakfasts.................. 156 Country-House Parties....... 158 Garden and Lawn Parties..... 160 PART II. CHAPTER I.SMALL SHELL-FISH. Shell-Fish on the Half-Shell(Huîtres)............. 163 Oysters on the Half Shell... 163 Oysters in a Block of Ice... 164 Oysters in Ice.............. 165 Cold Canned Oysters......... 166 Little-Neck Clams onthe Half-Shell.............. 166 CHAPTER II.SOUPS (Potage). PAGE Soup Stock.................. 168 Clear Soup or ConsommÉ...... 170 The Clarifying of Fat....... 171 Caramel..................... 171 Bouillon.................... 171 Clear Soup with RoyalePaste....................... 172 Spring Soup with Vegetables. 172 Case of Vegetables Cutters.. 173 Ox-Tail Soup................ 173 Mock Turtle Soup............ 174 Brown Turkey Soup........... 175 Chicken Soup................ 176 PurÉe Sieve................. 177 Chicken and Rice Soup, orPotage à la Reine............ 177 Cream of Asparagus.......... 178 Onion Soup.................. 178 Celery Soup................. 179 Cream of Fresh Mushrooms.... 179 Cream of Cauliflowers....... 180 Bain-Marie.................. 181 Tomato Cream Soup........... 181 String-Bean Soup............ 182 Green-Pea Soup.............. 182 Okra Soup with Crabs........ 183 Okra Soup with Beef......... 184 Dried Okra Soup............. 184 Ham and Pea Soup............ 185 Dried Bean Soup............. 185 Turtle Bean Soup............ 186 Oyster Cream Soup.......... 187 Fried Crusts for Soup....... 187 Oyster Soup with Eggs....... 188 Soft Clam Soup with To-matoes...................... 188 Cream of Fluke.............. 189 Crayfish Soup or Bisque..... 189 Bisque of Prawns............ 190 Lobster Soup................ 191 Crab Soup................... 191 Terrapin Clear Soup......... 192 How to Kill Green Turtle.... 192 How to Boil Green Turtle.... 194 Green Turtle Soup-Stock..... 194 Green Turtle Thick Soup..... 196 Egg-Balls for Soup.......... 196 Forcemeat-Balls for Soup.... 196 Green Turtle Clear Soup..... 197 CHAPTER III.FISH AND SHELL-FISH (Poisson). How to Thaw Frozen Fish..... 199 Large Fish Boiled in Slices. 199 Boiled Turbot with LobsterSauce....................... 200 Lobster Sauce............... 200 Boiled Halibut.............. 200 Fried Halibut............... 201 Fluke Boned and Baked....... 201 Bluefish Baked Whole........ 202 Slices of Fish Boiled....... 203 Shrimp or Prawn Sauce....... 204 White Sauce................. 204 Boiled Pike with CaperSauce....................... 204 Caper Sauce................. 205 Pike........................ 205 Pickerel.................... 205 Fried Blackfish............. 205 Larded Fish................. 206 Fried Cod and Haddock....... 206 Troncon of Fish............. 206 Boiled Bass................. 207 Hot Mustard Sauce........... 207 Bass........................ 208 Boiled Sheep's-Head......... 208 Cream Sauce................. 208 Redsnapper.................. 209 Whitefish................... 209 Darne of Salmon............. 209 Boiled Salmon............... 210 PAGE Anchovy Sauce............... 210 Salmon...................... 210 Fresh Mackerel Fried........ 210 Spanish Mackerel Broiled.... 211 Broiled Pompano, Cucum-ber Sauce................... 211 Cucumber sauce.............. 212 To Keep Shad Overnight...... 212 Broiled Shad................ 212 Fried Shad.................. 213 Shad-Roe.................... 213 Eels........................ 214 Fried Smelts on Skewers..... 214 Broiled Smelts.............. 215 Fried Butterfish............ 215 American White-Bait......... 216 Old Style of Frying White-Bait........................ 216 Trout with Cream Gravy...... 217 Fried Trout................. 217 Boiled Trout................ 217 New England Fish-Chowder.... 217 Clam-Chowder................ 218 Salt-Fish Dinner............ 219 Melted Butter............... 219 Salt-Fish Hash.............. 220 Cod's Tongues with EggSauce....................... 220 Boiled Salt Mackerel withButter...................... 221 Clarified Butter............ 221 Dried Salmon................ 222 Salted Shad................. 222 Diamond-Back Terrapin....... 222 How to Boil Terrapin........ 223 How to Dress Terrapin....... 224 Brown Stew of Terrapin...... 224 Stewed Terrapin with Cream.. 225 Green Turtle................ 225 Green Turtle Fried.......... 226 To Prepare Frog's Legs...... 226 Boiled Lobster.............. 227 Scalloped Lobster........... 227 Scalloped Lobster in Shells. 228 Lobster Chops or Cutlets.... 228 Scalloped Prawns or Shrimp.. 229 Soft-Shell Crabs Fried...... 229 Soft-Shell Crabs Broiled.... 230 Crabs Scalloped............. 230 Devilled Crabs.............. 231 Kromeskeys of Crab.......... 232 Mussels..................... 233 Scallops Fried in IndianMeal........................ 234 Fried Soft Clams............ 234 Scalloped Clams............. 234 Clam Fritters............... 235 Oyster Patties.............. 235 Fried Oysters............... 236 Roast Oysters............... 237 Stewed Oysters.............. 238 Pickled Oysters............. 238 Vol-au-vent of Oysters...... 239 Ragôut of Oysters for Vol-au-vent..................... 240 CHAPTER IV.RELISHES (Hors-d'auvres). Timbales, Patties. BouchÉes,Rissoles and Cockscombs..... 242 Tongue Toast................ 243 Ham Toast................... 243 Caviare Toast............... 243 Smoked Fish for Relishes.... 244 Sandwich Butter............. 244 Sandwiches.................. 245 CanapÉes.................... 245 BouchÉes.................... 245 Rissoles.................... 245 Spiced Veal................. 245 Veal Loaf................... 246 Jellied Chicken............. 246 Pickled Chicken............. 247 Peanuts Roasted with Salt... 247 Salted Almonds.............. 247 Walnuts and Wine............ 248 Girard Boiled Chestnuts..... 249 The Girard Nut Sandwich..... 249 Welsh Rarebit............... 249 PAGE Golden Buck................. 250 Yorkshire Rarebit........... 250 Cheese Straws and Crusts.... 250 Cheese Puffs................ 251 Potted Cheese............... 252 Easter Eggs................. 252 Hard-Boiled Eggs............ 253 Turkey, Geese, and DuckEggs........................ 253 Steamed Eggs................ 253 Broiled Eggs................ 253 Shirred Eggs................ 254 Poached Eggs with Ham....... 254 Frizzled Beef and Eggs...... 255 Fried Eggs.................. 255 Scrambled Eggs.............. 255 Omelets..................... 255 Sardine Omelet.............. 256 Omelet with Mushrooms....... 256 Rice Omelet................. 257 Omelet with Jelly........... 257 Pineapple Omelet............ 258 Tomato Catsup............... 258 Sealing-Wax for Pickle Jars. 258 Cucumber Catsup............. 258 Oyster Catsup............... 259 Chili Sauce................. 259 Chow-Chow................... 260 Pickled Cabbage............. 260 Pickled Tomatoes............ 260 Ripe Tomato Pickles......... 261 Sweet Pickle of Beets....... 261 Pickled Onions.............. 262 Grated Cucumber Pickle...... 262 Spiced Gherkins............. 263 Pickled Martinoes........... 264 Pickled Peaches............. 264 Peach Mangoes............... 265 Damson Sauce for Meats...... 265 Cider Apple-Sauce........... 266 Quince and Apple Butter..... 266 Pumpkin Sauce............... 266 CHAPTER V.SIDE-DISHES OF MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME (EntrÉes). Broiled Round of Beef....... 268 Porterhouse Steak Broiled... 268 Fried Beefsteak with OnionSauce....................... 268 Brown Onion Sauce........... 269 Beefsteak Smothered inOnions...................... 269 Cold Roast Beef Broiled..... 270 Cold Roast Beef Fried....... 270 How to Clean Tripe.......... 270 Rolls of Tripe, Creole Style 272 Beef-Kidney Broiled withBacon....................... 273 Beef-Kidney Stewed.......... 273 Fried Liver and Bacon withSpinach..................... 273 Calf's Liver Rolls.......... 274 Cutlets CloutÉ with Truffles 275 Cutlets with Truffles,Garnished................... 276 Veal Cutlet Breaded, withTomatoes.................... 277 Veal Pot-Pie................ 277 Fricandeau of Veal, Larded.. 278 Larded Fricandeaux, Gar-nished...................... 280 Sweetbread Croquettes....... 281 Brain Croquettes............ 282 Broiled Sweetbreads......... 282 Fried Sweetbreads........... 282 Sweetbreads in the Chafing-Dish........................ 283 Ragoût of Sweetbreads and Mushrooms for Vol-au-Vent... 283 How to Boil Calf's Headand Feet.................... 283 Calf's Head like Turtle..... 284 Broiled Calf's Head......... 285 Calf's Brains............... 286 Fried Brains................ 286 Calf's Tongue and Brains.... 286 Lamb Cutlets with Finan-cière Ragoût................ 287 Broiled Lamb Cutlets withMint Sauce.................. 287 PAGE Lamb Cutlets in Paper....... 288 Frizzled Mutton............. 289 Broiled Mutton Chops........ 289 Fried Mutton Chops.......... 289 Paper Frills for the Bones ofChops, etc.................. 290 Pork Chops and Apples....... 291 Minced Fresh Pork........... 291 Fried Sour Apples........... 292 Jowl........................ 292 Fried Salt Pork and Apples.. 292 Corned-Beef Hash, New-England Style............... 293 Frizzled Beef............... 293 Frizzled Ham................ 293 Fried Ham................... 294 Broiled Ham................. 294 Game Pie.................... 294 Reed-Bird Pie............... 296 Stewed Snipe................ 296 Prairie Chickens StewedWhole....................... 297 Boiled Partridge with CreamSauce....................... 297 Stewed Squirrels............ 297 Squirrel-Pie................ 298 Fricasse of Rabbits......... 299 Venison in Chafing-Dish..... 299 Forest City Sauce........... 299 Frizzled Venison............ 299 Pastry for Meat and GamePies........................ 300 Venison Pie................. 300 Venison Pasty............... 301 Broiled Spring Chicken withCauliflower................. 302 Spring Chicken Fried inCream....................... 303 Chicken Fried with Okra..... 303 Boiled Rice................. 304 Chicken Fried with Salt Pork 304 Fricassee of Chicken........ 305 Pullet with Toulouse Ragoût. 305 Chicken Quenelles........... 305 Chicken-Pie................. 306 Chicken Croquettes.......... 307 Turkey-Hash................. 309 Stewed or Potted Pigeons.... 309 Squab-Pie................... 310 Foie-Gras with Truffles..... 310 Truffles.................... 311 CHAPTER VI.REMOVES OF MEAT AND POULTRY (RelevÉs). Ribs of Beef Boned andRolled...................... 312 Baked Beef.................. 314 Beef à la Mode, with Stuff-ing......................... 314 Beef à la Daube............. 315 Larded Filet of Beef withTomatoes.................... 315 Tenderloin of Beef with Spa-ghetti, Milanaise Style..... 316 Fresh Tongue, Boiled........ 316 Robert Sauce................ 317 Hind-Quarter of Veal........ 317 Larded Cantons of Lamb...... 318 Boiled Mutton............... 319 Baked Fresh Pork............ 319 Baked Pork with Potatoes.... 321 Baked Tenderloins........... 321 Baked Sweet Potatoes........ 322 Stuffed Apples.............. 322 Hand of Fresh Pork.......... 322 Broiled Pork with ChiliSauce....................... 323 Chili Sauce................. 323 How to Dress a Roasting-Pig. 323 Baked Sucking-Pig........... 324 Salting and Smoking Meat.... 325 Salting Meat for Smoking.... 328 How to Pickle Meat.......... 329 Smoking Meat................ 329 Knickerbocker Dried Beef.... 329 How to Cure Hams............ 330 Ham Cooked in Cider......... 331 Plain Boiled Ham............ 331 Baked or Roast Ham.......... 331 PAGE To Smoke a Mutton Ham....... 332 Boiled Mutton Ham........... 332 New-England Salt Pork....... 332 How to Try Out Lard......... 333 Boiled Pork and Parsneps.... 334 Old New-York Style of Cur-ing Bacon................... 334 Boiled Bacon and Cabbage.... 335 Boar's Head................. 335 A New-England Boiled Dinner. 337 Corned Beef Brisket......... 338 Mustard Sauce............... 338 Beef's Heart, Corned........ 339 Pickled Beef's Tongues...... 340 Boiled Tongue............... 340 Baked Tongue................ 340 Boiled Turkey with OysterSauce....................... 340 Oyster Sauce................ 341 Boiled Turkey with CelerySauce....................... 341 Boiled Chicken.............. 341 Cream Onion Sauce........... 342 How to Preserve Baked andRoasted Meats................ 342 CHAPTER VII.ROASTS (Rôtis). Roast Beef.................. 344 Roast Lamb with Sorrel-Sauce 345 Sorrel-Sauce................ 345 Hind-Quarter of Lamb........ 346 Roast Lamb.................. 346 Saddle of Lamb Roasted...... 347 Cucumber Sauce.............. 347 Saddle of Mutton............ 347 Bear Meat................... 348 Buffalo..................... 348 Broiled Venison............. 348 Fried Venison............... 349 Baked Saddle of Venison..... 349 Roast Venison............... 349 Larded Saddle of Venison.... 350 Shoulder of Venison Larded.. 350 How to Skin Rabbits, Hares,and Squirrels............... 350 Hare Barded and Roasted..... 351 Hare Larded and Baked....... 351 Ortolans, or Snow-Buntings.. 352 Broiled Ortolans............ 352 Fried Reed-Birds............ 353 Broiled Reed-Birds.......... 353 Woodcock on Toast........... 353 Fried Woodcock.............. 354 Snipe Fried in Oil.......... 354 Snipe Broiled Whole......... 355 Roast Plover................ 355 Quail Barded and Roasted.... 356 Roast Quail................. 356 Baked Quail................. 357 Broiled Canvas-Back Duck.... 357 Roast Canvas-Back Duck...... 358 Canvas-Back Duck, Phila-delphia Style............... 358 Broiled Canvas-Back Duck,Delmonico Style.............. 358 Roast Wild Duck.............. 358 Filets of Wild Duck, withOrange-Sauce................. 359 Roast Widgeon................ 359 Orange Essence Sauce......... 359 Roast Teal................... 360 Onion-Sauce.................. 360 Roast Prairie Chickens orGrouse...................... 360 Prairie Chickens Broiled.... 361 Broiled Partridge........... 361 Roast Partridge............. 362 Roast Ptarmigan............. 362 Pheasants Garnished withSnipe....................... 362 Roast Guinea-Fowl........... 363 Boned Squabs and Pigeons.... 363 Roast Turkey Poult.......... 364 Roast Turkey................ 365 Giblet Stuffing............. 365 Salt-Pork Stuffing.......... 365 Suet Stuffing............... 365 Potato Stuffing............. 366 PAGE Roast Turkey Partly Boned.... 366 Oyster Force-Meat........... 367 Roast Turkey with Truffles.. 367 Larded Turkey............... 368 Implements for Larding andTrussing.................... 369 Spring Chicken, Broiled..... 369 Barded Chicken or Game...... 370 Spring Chicken, Baked....... 370 roast Chicken with chestnuts 371 Roast Goose and Gosling..... 371 Green Apple Sauce........... 371 Sorrel-Sauce................ 372 Gooseberry-Sauce............ 372 Green Sauce for Goslings orGeese....................... 372 Brown gravy for RoastGoose or Gosling............ 373 Giblet Gravy for RoastGoose or Gosling............ 373 Ducklings, or Spring Ducks.. 374 Roast Ducklings with Or-ange Sauce.................. 374 Duckling with Onions........ 374 Duck with Orange Sauce...... 375 Orange Sauce................ 375 CHAPTER VIII.SALADS AND VEGETABLES (Salades et Entremêts.) Watercress Salad............ 378 French Salad Dressing....... 378 Sliced Cucumbers............ 379 Cream Salad Dressing........ 379 Pepper Salad................ 379 Onion and Tomato Salad...... 379 Vegetable Scoops............ 380 Tomatoes with Mayonnaise.... 380 Cold Slaw................... 382 Hot Slaw.................... 382 Cheese Salad................ 382 Salads of Cooked Vegetables. 382 Potato Salad................ 383 American Potato Salad....... 383 Beet and Potato Salad....... 383 Salad of French Beans....... 384 Jerusalem Artichoke Salad... 384 Fruit Salads................ 384 Mayonnaise for Salad........ 385 Salmon Salad................ 386 Chicken Salad............... 386 Sweetbread Salad............ 387 Oyster Salad................ 387 Shad-Roe Salad.............. 387 Shrimp Salad................ 387 Hot Lobster Salad........... 388 Lobster Salad............... 389 New Potatoes................ 389 Bermuda Potatoes............ 390 Boiled Potatoes............. 390 Baked Potatoes.............. 391 Mashed Potatoes............. 391 Potato Straws............... 391 Brown Hashed Potatoes....... 392 Fried Potatoes.............. 392 Saratoga Potatoes........... 392 Julienne Potatoes........... 393 Fluted Vegetable Knife...... 393 Sweet Potatoes Fried with Pork........................ 394 Boiled Sweet Potatoes....... 394 Stuffed Sweet Potatoes...... 394 Sweet Potato Pudding........ 395 Jerusalem Artichokes........ 395 Globe Artichokes............ 396 Globe Artichokes, Boiled.... 397 Dutch or Hollandaise Sauce.. 398 Green Pease, Boiled......... 398 Sugar Pease................. 399 Canned Pease................ 399 String-Beans................ 399 Canned String-Beans......... 400 Stewed Butter-Beans......... 400 Lima Beans.................. 400 Stewed Kidney-Beans......... 401 Dried White Beans........... 401 Green Corn Boiled........... 402 How to Warm Cold Corn....... 402 Green Corn-Roasted.......... 402 Green Corn-Stewed........... 403 PAGE Green Corn Pudding.......... 403 Green Corn Griddle-Cakesand Fritters................ 403 Succotash................... 404 How to Can Corn............. 404 Dried Corn.................. 405 Canned Corn, Stewed......... 405 Dried Corn Hulled with Lye.. 405 Dried Corn Hulled with Sal-eratus...................... 406 Stewed Hominy............... 406 Succotash from Dried Sampand Beans................... 406 Succotash of Dried Corn andBeans....................... 407 Oyster-Plant with Cream..... 407 Sea-Kale.................... 408 Asparagus................... 408 Asparagus with Dutch Sauce.. 409 Sugar Beets Boiled.......... 409 New Turnips................. 410 Carrots..................... 410 Mushrooms................... 411 Fresh Mushrooms Broiled..... 415 Fresh Mushrooms Baked....... 415 Mushrooms Stems Stewed...... 415 To Dry Fresh Mushrooms...... 416 Mushroom Powder............. 416 Canned Mushrooms withCream Sauce................. 416 Morels...................... 417 Stuffed Morels.............. 418 Mushroom Brown Sauce........ 418 Fried Cucumbers on Toast.... 418 Cucumbers Stuffed with Mar-row......................... 419 Egg-Plant Fried in Butter... 419 Egg-Plant Fried in Batter... 419 Scalloped Egg-Plant......... 420 Baked Egg-Plant............. 421 Boiled Cabbage.............. 421 Fried Cabbage............... 421 Red Cabbage Stewed.......... 422 Sauerkraut.................. 422 Cauliflower................. 423 Spinach..................... 424 Boiled Turnip-Tops.......... 424 Boiled Celery............... 425 Butter and Lemon Sauce...... 425 Celery with Remoulade Sauce. 426 German Remoulade Sauce...... 426 Green Remoulade Sauce....... 426 Celery Fritters............. 427 Fried Parsley............... 427 Okra........................ 427 Green Peppers, Stuffed andBaked....................... 428 Stuffed Tomatoes............ 428 Fried Tomatoes with BrownGravy....................... 429 Broiled Tomatoes............ 429 Stewed Tomatoes............. 430 Canned Tomatoes............. 430 Parsneps with Cream......... 431 Salt Pork and Parsneps...... 431 Broiled Parsneps............ 431 Bermuda Onions Boiled....... 432 Boiled Onions............... 432 Spanish Onions Fried........ 432 Scalloped Onions............ 432 Boiled Leeks................ 433 Boiled Squash............... 433 Baked Yellow Squash......... 434 Summer Squash............... 434 Summer Squash Stewed........ 434 Macaroni and Spaghetti...... 435 CHAPTER IX.SECOND-COURSE SWEETS (Entremêts). St. HonorÉ Cake............. 436 St. HonorÉ Custard.......... 437 To GlaçÉ Fruit.............. 438 St. HonorÉ Cake, to Shape... 438 Rum Buns.................... 439 Bath Buns................... 440 Brioche..................... 440 Brioche Ring................ 442 PAGE Almond Macaroons............ 443 Almond Biscuit.............. 443 Almond Cake................. 443 Lady Cake................... 444 Pineapple Cake.............. 444 Orange Cake................. 444 Citron Pound Cake........... 444 Plum Cake................... 445 Sponge Cake................. 445 Lady-Fingers................ 447 Charlotte Russe............. 447 Whipped Cream............... 448 Paper Cases for Small Char-lottes...................... 449 Cake Baked in Paper......... 449 Plain Icing for Cakes....... 451 Boiled Icing................ 451 Tutti Frutti Icing.......... 451 Confectioner's Icing........ 451 Fruit Icing................. 452 Fruit-Cream Icing........... 452 Corn-Starch Icing........... 452 Almond Icing................ 452 Paper Cones for Icing....... 452 Omelette SoufflÉ............ 454 Almond SoufflÉ.............. 455 Salamanders................. 457 Boiled and Steamed Puddings. 457 Hot Cabinet-Pudding, RumSauce....................... 458 Forest-City Rum Sauce....... 458 Christmas Plum-Pudding...... 459 Brandy Sauce................ 460 Boiled Batter-Pudding....... 460 Fruit Sauce................. 461 Brandy Hard Sauce........... 461 Boiled Bread-Pudding........ 461 Caramel Sauce............... 461 Boiled Apple-Pudding........ 462 Egg Pudding-Sauce........... 462 Boiled Huckleberry-Pud-ding, with Eggs............. 462 Berry Sauce................. 463 Boiled Rice Dumplings....... 463 Maple-Sugar Sauce........... 464 Baked Puddings.............. 464 Baked Plum-Pudding.......... 464 Baked Indian-Pudding........ 465 Lemon-Pudding............... 465 Cocoanut-Pudding withSponge-Cake................. 465 Grape-Pudding............... 466 Marlborough-Pudding......... 466 Pies and Tarts.............. 466 Puff-Paste.................. 467 PatÉ d'Office............... 471 Fruit Patties............... 472 Cream Crust................. 472 Lard Pie-Crust.............. 474 Good Plain Pastry........... 474 Christmas Mince-Meat........ 476 Plain Mince-Meat............ 477 Fruit Mince-Pies............ 478 Apple and Pie-Plant Pie..... 478 Rhubarb-Pie, New-EnglandStyle....................... 479 Cherry-Tart................. 479 Raspberry-Pie............... 481 Gooseberry-Tart............. 481 Forest-City Lemon-Pie....... 481 Sweet-Potato Pie, Philadel-phia Style.................. 482 Squash-Pie.................. 482 Pumpkin-Pie................. 483 Peach Tarts................. 483 Pineapple Tarts............. 484 Baked Apple Dumplings....... 484 Pear Dumplings.............. 485 Fresh Apple Pan-Dowdy....... 485 Dried Apple Pan-Dowdy....... 485 Hot and Cold Breads, Frit-ters and Griddle-Cakes...... 486 Home-Made Bread............. 486 Compressed-Yeast Bread...... 487 Breakfast Rolls............. 489 Potato Rolls................ 490 Parker-House Rolls.......... 491 Astor-House Rolls........... 491 Baking-Powder Biscuit....... 492 Buttermilk Biscuit.......... 492 Beaten Biscuit.............. 492 Raised Biscuit.............. 493 Graham Gems and Biscuit..... 493 Raised Graham Biscuit....... 494 Huckleberry Biscuit......... 494 Sour-Cream Biscuit.......... 494 Shotcakes................... 494 PAGE Raised Shortcake............ 495 Egg Corn-Bread.............. 495 New-England Corn-Bread...... 496 New-England Brown-Bread..... 496 Graham and Indian Bread..... 496 Raised Graham Bread......... 497 Raised Sweet-Potato Bread... 497 Sweet-Potato Pone........... 498 Wheat Muffins............... 498 Raised Muffins.............. 498 Rye Muffins................. 499 Pop-Overs................... 499 Egg-Puffs................... 500 Raised Waffles.............. 500 Sweet-Potato Waffles........ 500 Corn Waffles................ 500 Rice Waffles................ 501 Raised Rice Waffles......... 501 Rice Pancakes............... 501 Fried Rice.................. 501 Fried Bread................. 502 Fritter Batter.............. 502 Orange Fritters............. 502 Pineapple Fritters.......... 503 Old-Fashioned Doughnuts..... 503 New-England Fried-Cakes..... 504 Whortleberry Fried-Cakes.... 504 Crullers with Eggs.......... 505 Crullers With Baking-Powder. 506 Pan-Doddles................. 507 Indian Slap-Jacks........... 507 Army Slap-Jacks............. 508 Buckwheat Cakes............. 508 Raised Buckwheat Cakes...... 508 Indian Griddle-Cakes........ 508 Spider-Cake................. 509 Huckleberry Spider-Cake..... 509 Spider-Cake Toast........... 510 Butter Toast................ 510 Milk Toast.................. 510 Water Toast................. 511 CHAPTER X.DESSERT (Dessert). Cream MÉringues............. 512 Italian Cream............... 513 Cannelons with Cream........ 514 Bavarian Cream.............. 514 Calf's-Foot Jelly........... 515 Madeira Jelly............... 516 Noyeau Jelly................ 516 Oranges with Jelly.......... 517 Chartreuse of Candied Or-anges....................... 517 Spinning Sugar.............. 518 Degrees of boiling Sugar.... 520 The Thread.................. 520 The Pearl................... 520 The Blow.................... 520 The Feather................. 521 The Ball.................... 521 The Crack................... 521 Caramel..................... 521 To Prevent Granulation inBoiling Sugar............... 521 Nougat...................... 522 How to Reduce BoilingSugar a Degree.............. 522 Freezing-Tub for FrozenPuddings.................... 523 Frozen Cabinet-Pudding...... 523 Confectioners' NesselrodePudding..................... 524 Francatelli's NesselrodePudding..................... 525 Coffee Bombe................ 525 Ice-Creams.................. 526 Plain Ice-Cream............. 527 Frozen Custard.............. 527 Philadelphia Ice-Cream...... 527 Vanilla Ice-Cream........... 528 French Ice-Cream............ 528 Coffee Ice-Cream............ 528 Brown-Bread Ice-Cream....... 528 Fancy Ice-Creams and Ices... 529 Neapolitan Ice-Cream........ 529 Pistache Ice-Cream.......... 529 Tutti Frutti................ 529 PAGE Plum-Pudding GlacÉ.......... 529 Fruit Ice-Creams............ 530 Fruit-Ices.................. 530 Water-Ices.................. 531 Roman Punch................. 531 Roman-Punch GlacÉ........... 531 Champagne-Ice............... 531 Freezing-Tub for Small Ices. 532 Canned Fruit................ 532 Preserves and Jellies....... 533 Jelly-Bags.................. 534 Pineapple Jelly............. 536 Sugared Pineapple........... 536 Pineapple Preserves......... 537 Crab-Apple Jelly............ 537 Crab-Apple Jelly with Lemon. 537 Crab-Apple Preserve......... 538 Apple-Jelly................. 538 Apple-Marmalade............. 538 New-England Apple-Jam....... 539 Plum Marmalade.............. 539 Plum-Jam.................... 540 Plum-Jelly.................. 540 Brandied Green-Gage Plums... 540 Preserved Pears............. 541 Pear Marmalade.............. 541 Pear-Jam.................... 542 Sugared Quinces............. 542 Quinces Preserved Whole..... 543 Quince-Jelly................ 543 Preserved Peaches........... 543 Peach-Jelly................. 544 Jellied Peaches............. 544 Peach Marmalade............. 545 Brandy Peaches.............. 545 Apricot Marmalade........... 546 Apricot Preserves and Jelly. 546 Cherry Preserves............ 546 Cherry Marmalade............ 546 Brandied Cherries........... 547 Raspberry Preserves......... 547 Mrs. Charles Thornton Ad-ams's Raspberry Jam......... 548 Raspberry and Currant Jam... 548 Currant-Jam................. 549 Currant-Jelly............... 549 Blackberry and Apple-Jam.... 549 Barberry-Jam................ 549 Barberry-Jelly.............. 550 Barberry-Jam................ 550 Preserved Mulberries........ 550 Preserved Elderberries...... 551 Elderberry and Grape Jelly.. 551 Preserved Grapes............ 552 Grape Jelly................. 552 Gooseberries Preserved Whole 552 Jellied Gooseberries........ 553 Red-Gooseberry Jam.......... 553 Green-Gooseberry Jam........ 554 Jellied Cranberries......... 554 Rhubarb-Jelly............... 555 Rhubarb-Marmalade........... 555 Rhubarb-Jam................. 555 Strawberry Preserves........ 556 Wiesbaden Preserves......... 557 Strawberry-Jam.............. 557 Florida Orange Marmalade.... 558 Preserved Tomatoes.......... 558 Tomato-Jelly................ 559 Tomato-Jam.................. 559 Tomato-Figs................. 559 Preserved Citron Melon...... 560 Watermelon Preserve......... 560 Preserved Pumpkin........... 560 Preserved Grape-Fruit....... 561 Tutti Frutti Preserve....... 561 Baked Apples................ 562 Stewed Gooseberries......... 562 Fried Bananas............... 563 Fried Peaches............... 563 Peaches Stewed in Wine...... 563 Pineapples.................. 564 Iced Pineapple.............. 565 Bananas and Oranges......... 565 Ambrosia.................... 565 Iced Raspberries for Dessert 566 Iced Strawberries........... 566 Strawberries with WhippedCream....................... 566 Peaches with Oranges........ 567 Grape-Fruit for Breakfast... 567 CHAPTER XI.BEVERAGES, AND SUGGESTIONS FOR THE DIET OF INVALIDS AND CHILDREN. PAGE Filtering Water or Sirup.... 570 Coffee...................... 570 French Coffee............... 572 CafÉ Noir................... 572 Gloria...................... 572 Tea......................... 573 Chocolate................... 573 Cocoa....................... 573 Hot Coffee and Soda......... 574 Pineapple Lemonade.......... 574 Currant-Water............... 574 Cherry-Water................ 575 Cherry-Sirup................ 575 Blackberry Sirup............ 575 Florida Orange Wine......... 575 New-England Boiled Cider.... 576 Dixie Pineapple Cider....... 576 West-Indian Pineapple Shrub. 577 Pineapple Rum Shrub......... 577 Currant Shrub............... 577 Pineapple Brandy............ 578 Cherry Brandy............... 578 Raspberry Brandy............ 578 Raspberry Liqueur........... 579 Blackberry Brandy........... 579 Blackberry Cordial.......... 579 Peach Brandy................ 580 Peach and Honey............. 580 Cider-Cup................... 580 Claret-Cup.................. 581 Champagne-Cup............... 581 Roman Punch................. 581 Punch à la Romaine.......... 581 Capillaire for Eau SucrÉ.... 582 Virginia Verder, or BottledMilk-Punch.................. 582 Milk-Punch.................. 582 White Tiger's Milk.......... 582 Hot Apple-Toddy............. 583 Egg-Nog..................... 583 Egg and Sherry.............. 583 Half-and-Half............... 583 Egg-Flip.................... 584 Porter Sangaree............. 584 Port-Wine Sangaree.......... 584 Mulled Wine................. 584 Mint Julep.................. 584 Sherry Cobbler.............. 585 Whiskey Punch............... 585 Beef-Tea.................... 585 Beef-Juice on Toast......... 585 Clear Clam-Broth............ 586 Steamed Clams............... 586 Dry Toast................... 586 Broiled Oysters............. 586 Broiled Squabs.............. 586 Milk Porridge............... 587 Rice-Gruel.................. 587 Water-Gruel................. 587 Rice and Barley Waters...... 587 Panada...................... 587 Caudle...................... 588 Home-Made Granula........... 588 Rennet Curds................ 588 Rennet Whey................. 588 Bread Jelly................. 589 Cranberry and Sago Jelly.... 589 Dishes for Children......... 589

CHAPTER I. THE KITCHEN, PANTRY, AND CELLAR.

THE KITCHEN. THE fitting-up and care of the kitchen have been so often treated by writers upon domestic matters, that comparatively little space need be given to the subject here; only a few outlines which every housekeeper can fill by the exercise of her own taste and judgment. If possible, have the kitchen upon the level of the ground; or, if it must be in the basement of a house, take care that plenty of light and air reach it. If daylight does not flood every corner of it, supply artificial light, even in the daytime; for no domestic operation requires more light than the treatment of food. Painting the wood-work and floor a light color is of use in this particular. In some of the modern houses where there are elevators, the kitchen and laundry are placed in the top story, greatly to the comfort of all the inmates of the house, who thus escape all odors of cooking and washing.

Equally with light is cleanliness important in the kitchen. The cleaning of floors is considered in the chapter on The Dining-room. The walls of a kitchen should be of some hard finish, either panelled wood, tiles, or plastering which can be covered with whitewash or kalsomine coloring.

Any lime wash is desirable for the kitchen, because it tends to keep the air pure if frequently applied. The following will be found excellent: Half fill a large pail with quick-lime; pour upon it one gallon of cold water, and stir it until ebullition ceases; then stir in one pint of linseed-oil, and add enough more cold water to make the wash of the consistency of thin paste. Copperas-water used in place of cold water will make the wash disinfectant to a certain degree. The use of skim-milk instead of the first cold water will make a wash which will resist the action of water. Apply the wash with a broad flat brush, moving it up and down the walls with even strokes. The so-called White House wash is made by slacking half a bushel of quicklime with boiling water, keeping it covered until ebullition ceases; meantime a peck of salt is dissolved in warm water, and three pounds of ground rice are made into a thin paste by boiling it with water; a pound of clean glue is dissolved in warm water at the same time, and half a pound of Spanish whiting is powdered; all these ingredients are mixed together, with the addition of enough boiling water to make the mixture properly liquid, and it is then strained, cooled, and allowed to stand three days in a covered vessel. When the wash is required for use, it is heated in a double kettle, and applied hot with a flat brush. This wash resists the action of severe weather, and will serve in place of paint for walls, or wood or stone work. It may be used for the kitchen woodwork if desired.

If the kitchen is already painted, and only needs cleaning, use hot water and soap with a flannel rag. The addition of a handful of borax or four tablespoonfuls of liquid ammonia to a gallon of hot water will make a solution which will clean paint and glass quickly and well without soap. Wash oil>-cloths by first rubbing them over with a cloth wet in equal parts of milk and water, and then with another wet in warm water, and finally with a soft dry cloth; wet only a small place at once, and never use a brush if it can be avoided. Keep oilcloths clean ordinarily by wiping them first with a damp cloth and then with a dry one; but do not apply soap, or use a harsh brush or a mop. When the paint has been scrubbed off oilcloths, and their texture is still unbroken, they can be restored by having a coat of good oil paint laid over them about once a year. Some durable bright color is preferable; and the effect can be heightened by having a solid color for the centre, and a contrasting hue for the border. Rubbing with a few drops of ammonia on a damp cloth, and subsequent polishing with dry cloth, will clean windows easily and well. Kitchen-tables should be cleaned every day, with hot water in which either borax or washing-soda is dissolved. The sink should be flushed every day with boiling water, and a handful of washing-soda thrown upon the strainer over the drain-pipe before the greasy water is poured down it after a meal is over. If this point is attended to, and no scraps of refuse or grounds of tea or coffee are allowed to pass into the drain-pipe, housekeepers will escape that troublesome and expensive plumber's job of cutting out the drain-pipe. Every week in winter, and oftener in summer, a cupful of quicklime or of chloride of lime, or a pailful of hot copperas-water, should be thrown upon the drain. Copperas-water is a valuable disinfectant, free from the objectionable odor and physical effect of lime; it is made by placing the copperas in the bottom of a barrel, and covering it with water; enough copperas should be used to be plainly seen always upon the bottom of the barrel. The water, heated and poured in drains, sinks, and water-closets, by the pailful, once or twice a week, will keep them entirely free from dangerous emanations: note this when there is a closet upon the lower floor, or near the kitchen.

After every meal the towels and dish-cloths should be washed in hot water with soap and a little borax, and they should then be well rinsed and dried in the sun or air before using them again. Directions are given elsewhere for washing dishes.

If kitchen utensils are tarnished and discolored, put them into a large boiler containing hot water and a handful of washing-soda, and let them boil for a few moments; then scour them with any of the good kitchen soaps made of fine white silicious matter. Very fine ashes, sand, or brick-dust sifted, will answer for scouring iron or copper. For tin and japanned or enamelled ware, use powdered whiting, applying it with a wet cloth, and then polishing with a dry one or with chamois. Knives are cleaned with powdered bath-brick.

To clean the stove, first wash it with hot water and soda after it is cold, if it is greasy; and then blacken it with any good stove-polish,according to the directions accompanying the polish, and rub the steel fittings of the stove with emery-paper. To build a fire, first let down the grate, and take up the ashes and cinders carefully to avoid raising a dust, sifting the cinders to use in building the fire; brush the soot and dust out of the upper part of the stove, and from the flues which can be reached; be sure that all parts of the ovens and hot-boxes are clean; if there is a waterback attached to the stove, see that it is filled with water; if it is connected with water-pipes, be sure in winter that they are not frozen; brush up the hearth-stone. Lay the fire as follows: Put a few handfuls of dry shavings or paper in the bottom of the grate; upon them, some small sticks of pine wood laid across each other; then a few larger sticks, and some cinders free from ashes; a few small lumps of coke or coal may be mixed with the cinders. Open all the draughts of the stove, close all the covers, and light the fire; when the cinders are lighted, add fresh coke and coal gradually and repeatedly until a clear, bright fire is started; then partly close the draughts. To keep up a fire, add fuel often, a little at once, in order not to check the heat: letting the fire burn low, and then replenishing it abundantly, is a wasteful method, because the stove grows so cold that most of the fresh heat is lost in raising the temperature again to the degree necessary for cooking. Removing the covers of the stove, to place a utensil nearer the fire, lowers the heat of the entire surface, and affects the temperature of the ovens; therefore flat-bottomed cooking-utensils are the best, for they fit close upon the covered top of the stove. Black iron saucepans cook more quickly than bright tin ones; coppers retain the heat, even when brightly polished, longer than any other metal, and are much the most durable. All these points of excellence are treated in detail in the author's "Cooking-school Text-book," to which the reader who desires further information is referred. When the fuel used is wood, the fire should be built and managed much in the same way. Hard wood is preferable to pine for cooking-purposes. Charcoal is a good cooking-fuel, but it is generally expensive.

All the kitchen refuse should be burned, first draining it from the slops; and then, when there is no cooking going on, it should be put upon the back of the fire, and all the draughts thrown open so that it can be quickly and entirely consumed. If there is no accumulation of rubbish in the kitchen, there will probably be no more croton-bugs or roaches than can be destroyed by the persistent use of powdered borax and insect-powder.

THE PANTRY. Although cleanliness in the kitchen is generally enforced in well-regulated households, the same care is not always extended to those necessary repositories of food, the pantry, the refrigerator, and the cellar. The drains too often contaminate the latter, all kinds of food are gathered indiscriminately in the ice-box, and the pantry has too many dark corners. Then, again, the pantry is too often located so near the kitchen as to receive more or less heat from that room. This access of heat should be guarded against as far as possible, because it so interferes with the preservation of food. When it is impossible to have the pantry or store-room a little removed from the kitchen, the two rooms can be separated by double doors, or at least by a door furnished with a spring which will always close it.

The pantry should be so placed as to receive plenty of light and air to keep it free from dampness, but it should not be so exposed to the sun as to make it hot enough at any season to affect its contents. If there is not a storeroom proper,a large light closet should be devoted to its uses. Shelves should be arranged around the walls, those upon two sides at least permitting barrels to be placed under them; hooks should be placed upon the edges of some of the upper shelves, within easy reach, for the hanging of bunches of herbs and small bags, or nets containing fruit. A cool, dark section should be set apart for preserves and jellies; and, if they are put up in stone jars or buckets, they should be labelled, so that the contents can be known without opening them. The arrangement of shelves, boxes, jars, and barrels will suggest itself to any tidy person, as it affords the easiest access to their contents. As far as possible, solid cases should be used for stores of all kinds, because paper used for wrapping them is so readily torn, and is no protection against mice or insects. The ordinary contents of the storeroom include dry groceries, preserves, pickles, bread, and cake; the latter should be kept in close boxes of wood or tin, which should be frequently cleaned. Hot food should never be put into the storeroom, because it gives out steam, and thus favors dampness, and also because it slightly heats the atmosphere.

THE REFRIGERATOR. In most towns, ice-boxes or refrigerators are obtainable already made, but there is some discretion to be used in their selection. In choosing one, care should be taken that the frame is of hard wood, susceptible of a smooth finish, because a soft rough surface attracts and retains moisture and injurious odors from the water used in cleansing it, and from the ice, as well as from the food itself. If possible, the entire lining and shelves should be metallic; but, if they are of wood, they should be hard, and a double set should be employed so that some can be drying while the others are in use. Marbleized iron or zinc makes the best metal shelves. No water or sewer pipes should be connected with the ice-box, because poisonous gases readily pass through water. In so-called model apartment-houses, the refrigerator is sometimes connected direct with the drain by a small pipe, to permit the escape of the water caused by the melting of the ice: there could be no surer way devised to imperil the health of the inmates of the apartments. Ice-boxes and refrigerators, large and small, should be cleaned and aired often enough to keep them perfectly free from any odor. Meat, fish, poultry, or game should never be laid upon shelves, but rather hung by hooks or laid upon racks: if the box is too small to permit this, they should be placed upon earthen dishes large enough to prevent contact with the box or shelves. Milk should always be kept in closed jars, even when in the ice-box, for no other substance is so quickly affected by air and surroundings; it absorbs every odor and gas to which it is exposed, and takes on every taint in the atmosphere: therefore, as soon as its first natural heat has passed away, it should be strained, and kept in covered vessels, unless it is put into a perfectly clean milk-room sheltered from air and dust. Butter, like milk, readily takes on odors and taint: it should always be kept in covered tubs or jars, with brine or a wet cloth covered with salt over it. It should never be put near fish, meat, or vegetables which can impart any odor to it.

The ice-box should not be kept in a damp place, because dampness will cause the ice to melt, and predispose food to ferment and mould. No steam or furnace pipes or chimney-flues should be near enough to vary its temperature in the least degree, for this in itself is a frequent cause of injury to food. When the weather is variable,it is necessary to closely watch food which is not refrigerated. In the winter, there is less danger to food from decomposition than in summer; but some kinds are impaired by freezing. And then, too, there is always more or less danger of decomposition attending the thawing of frozen meats: they should be thawed at a dry temperature, only a little above the freezing-point, in a well-ventilated room, or in very cold water,--never near the fire, or in a warm kitchen. When meat has once been frozen, it should be kept at that temperature until it is thawed for cooking; for, when once thawed, it is likely to spoil quickly, especially in close, damp weather.

A word in regard to frozen vegetables: they should be placed in cold water to thaw, not exposed to the action of heat; but as freezing effects a chemical change in the substance and composition of vegetables,--as, for instance, when it partly changes the starch in potatoes into glucose,--they should generally be protected from frost. Vegetables will be referred to again in treating of the cellar.

As dampness favors decomposition, even at a low temperature, the ice-compartment in refrigerators should be separated from the food-closet by permanent walls, so that moisture cannot be directly communicated from ice to food. The only efficient refrigerator is one that thus separates the ice from the food, and has an outlet for the water caused by the melting of the ice. It is a mistake to use this water for drinking or cooking purposes, for it generally contains impurities from the ice. A glass- or porcelain-lined receptacle placed next to the ice-compartment, and filled with water, will cool pleasantly. The vessel should be washed out and filled with fresh water every day, and should be entirely closed from the air; for water impregnated with odors or vapors from food, or with those which pervade living-rooms, is unfit to drink. As water standing in open pitchers for any length of time loses all its natural gases, and absorbs the deleterious properties in the atmosphere, so, equally, that which is exposed to the odors of food in the refrigerator becomes injurious.

In cool weather, meat, fish, game, and poultry may be kept in a wire safe for a reasonable length of time. The same general care should be given to the safe which the refrigerator requires. Its frame should be of hard wood; the racks or shelves, of metal, marbleized or galvanized iron; and the wire-cloth painted as often as it shows any trace of rust, because a rough, rusted metallic surface will attract and retain deleterious odors, and particles of decomposed food.

THE CELLAR. In cities, cellars are generally quite underground, and too often contaminated by sewer- and drain-pipes. It is impossible to take too much care to guard against this danger. To a great ,extent, dampness can be obviated in cellars, by flooring them with concrete, and ventilating them thoroughly: for this purpose there should be movable windows, in good working-order, with direct communication with the outer air.

Cellars cannot always be lighted without artificial means, but they can be kept clean and dry. A little copperas dissolved in the water used for making lime-wash, or some good disinfectant, can always be used to purify the air; and care can be taken that no dirt of any kind accumulates. As this subject is treated exhaustively in the author's work on "Diet for Invalids," no more need be said here. If fruit or vegetables are kept in cellars, they should be examined frequently, and all spoiled portions removed. The darkness necessary to the preservation of some vegetables can be secured by covering them with old clean blankets or carpet, or, better still, with several thicknesses of newspaper, which can be thrown away when they bear any trace of mildew: the blanket or carpet should be dried frequently, and washed when it becomes at all mildewed. The temperature of cellars where vegetables are kept should be regulated so that they can neither freeze, nor spoil from excessive heat: a safe temperature is about 50° Fah.

When vegetables are kept in bins, they should be made of hard smooth wood with covers; otherwise, barrels and boxes with covers should be used. If those roots and tubers which are to be kept until late in the winter are packed in layers, in sand or clean moss or excelsior-shavings, they will keep fresh and good in a dry, cool cellar. Apples may be packed in this way, or in dry sawdust, or wrapped in soft paper, and stored in barrels or boxes. Winter pears may be laid between the folds of an old clean blanket, on a shelf, in a dry cellar. Cranberries are best preserved by keeping them covered with water, and lemons do well in the same way; care should be taken that the water does not freeze, and it should be changed often enough to maintain its freshness. Parsnips are generally left in the ground during the winter, but they may be kept in sand in the cellar. If turnips are kept in sand, they are less apt to become corky than when exposed to the air. Celery keeps well, quite buried in the sand. Squashes and pumpkins require a cool, dry place. Cabbages may be laid in heaps, or packed in barrels, with the root up, and a thick covering of their own outer leaves upon the top, under the cover of the barrel or bin. Onions should be spread upon shelves, or kept in well-aired baskets. Beets should be buried in sand, as also carrots. Potatoes keep well in barrels in a cool, dark part of the cellar. As the spring approaches, or if they begin to show signs of germination at any season, they may be put into baskets with handles, and placed in boiling water for three minutes; after that they are to be thoroughly drained, and then returned to the cellar: the heat of the water destroys the young sprouts, without injuring the rest of the potato for subsequent cooking. Sweet potatoes require a very dry place, but do not keep any length of time; so that, unless the family is large, they should be bought only in small quantities. All the vegetables which are used green, or in an immature condition, should be dried, canned, or preserved in their season. Radishes and mushrooms may be raised during the winter, in warm cellars; and parsley and lettuce, in window-boxes, at any temperature suitable for house-plants; mustard and cress will grow from seed within a few days in window-boxes.

THE CARE OF MILK AND BUTTER. Reference has already been made to the importance of taking special care of the milk and butter intended for daily consumption in the household; but where one or two cows are kept, and a little butter is made, a few more directions may be useful.

It is as important that the cows and their shed should be kept perfectly clean, and that they are properly fed, as that their milk should receive attention; and the housekeeper should see to this, although such details belong properly to those having care of the cows. When cows have been fed upon cabbage or turnips, or have eaten onions in the fields, in such a way that the taste is perceptible in the milk, add to it, as soon as it is drawn from the cows and strained, one quart of boiling water to each two gallons of milk, or have a piece of saltpetre the size of a pea powdered and put into each pail before milking the cows. Either of these methods will generally destroy the foreign flavor, without injuring the milk; but if the cows are shut up so that they have no access to such food for six or eight hours, the milk will be sweet. The cows should be milked kindly and gently, and not immediately after any violent exercise; and, when possible, always by one person who understands their idiosyncrasies, and can get all the milk: if a cow is not milked thoroughly, the quantity will gradually decrease and become poor until the supply ceases altogether. When a cow is unquiet during milking, a piece of rock-salt put into a trough for her to lick will generally keep her quiet; but if she is vicious, her legs must be strapped.

Tin pails, scrupulously clean, are best for milking: if wooden ones are used, they must be of hard, smooth wood, scalded and then rinsed with cold water before being used. The milk should be strained directly it is drawn, and set in a temperature of about 60° Fah. to become cool: milk should always be cooled before it is covered in any way. Deep tin pails, with a handle for lifting, are better for setting milk for cream than the old-fashioned shallow pans: they should always be kept scrupulously clean, being scalded, aired, and sunned after each time of use. Cream should be skimmed according to the season, in twelve, twenty-four, or thirty-six hours. If the milk sours under the cream, no harm is done; but it should not be allowed to stand before skimming, until the curd and whey separate.

When enough cream is ready from one skimming to make butter, it need only be set away without disturbance until it becomes slightly sour,--from twenty-four to forty-eight hours: but when it has to be accumulated, an ounce of pulverized salt may be put into the bottom of a two- or three-gallon jar; and, every time cream is put in, it should be thoroughly stirred with that already in the jar. Any drops upon the inside of the jar should be wiped off, and it should be kept covered with a piece of gauze. A shallow ladle is best for skimming, and it need not be perforated. No wind should be permitted to blow over the surface of cream while it is rising, and it should be protected from dust. The most cream seems to rise upon milk cooled by ice. Although cream needs to be a little sour before churning, it must not be allowed to become at all bitter: the churning may be done two or three times a week.

Before using the churn, it should be scalded for one minute with boiling water, then emptied, and partly filled with very cold water for five minutes: after that, the water may be poured out, and the cream put into the churn. Very thick cream should be thinned with milk before churning. When the cream froths much in the churn, the butter should be used soon after it is made, because there is some condition of the milk or cream which will prevent the keeping of the butter. Churn with a series of steady, even strokes, about sixty to the minute, and stop when the butter comes in small, firm masses. At some seasons it is necessary to put some very cold milk, or a piece of ice, into the churn before the butter will come; this may be done if it does not begin to appear in about half an hour: butter comes in about half an hour when the cream is at a temperature of about 65° Fah.

When the butter comes, if it is very soft, put ice or very cold water into the churn so that it will harden enough to be taken up. Remove the butter from the churn, to a clean table or butter-tray, with a wooden paddle, first wetting both in very cold water. Never use the hands in working butter. With the ladle, cut down through the butter, and press it firmly, to work out the buttermilk; but do not smooth it, because that breaks the grain of the butter. If the weather is warm enough to make the butter soft, put a piece of ice upon it, and trust to the second working to extract the water. When the buttermilk is worked out, spread the butter out on the tray or table, sprinkle over it the finest dairy-salt,--about an ounce of salt to a pound of butter,--and then, using the same cutting motion, thoroughly work the salt into the butter. Some butter-makers add about a quarter of an ounce of fine white sugar to each pound of butter at the first or second working: the sugar is a good corrective to any trace of bitterness in the butter, and helps preserve it. After the salt has been worked into the butter, put it away to harden again. When the butter is hard, repeat the working with the ladle, to work out all the water, and use a cloth repeatedly wrung out of ice-water to pat the butter while working it; do not work long enough to soften the butter, but extract all the moisture, so that a clean surface is presented when cut, with only a slight dew upon it. Then either make it up in pats or rolls, wrap each one i