Title: A New System of Domestic Cookery
Author: Rundell, Maria Eliza Ketelby
Publisher: London : printed for J. Murray.




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[Editorial note: The following text is a handwritten inscription:]



4 Gills -- 1 Mutchkin

2 Mutchkins -- 1 Chopin

2 Chopins -- 1 pint

2 Pints -- 1 Quart

4 Quarts -- 1 Gallon

16 Gallons -- 1 Hogshead


The Scotch Mutchkin is something less than an English Pint






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[Illustration: An Illustration of a Kitchen with Diffrent Animals and Utensils are Scattered around.]


Published as the [GAP IN TEXT. Type: . Extent: one word] directs, Nov 21st 1805, by J. Murray.




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[Editorial note: Hand written Signature]


Margt. [GAP IN TEXT. Type: . Extent: one word]

A
NEW SYSTEM
OF
DOMESTIC COOKERY;
FORMED UPON
PRINCIPLES OF ECONOMY,
And adapted to the Use of
PRIVATE FAMILIES.


BY A LADY.
A NEW EDITION, CORRECTED:

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR JOHN MURRAY, FLEET-STREET; J. HARDING,
ST. JAMES'S-STREET; AND A. CONSTABLE AND CO.
EDINBURGH;
At the Union Printing-Office, St. John's Square, by W. Wilson.
1807.


Price Seven Shillings and Sixpence.





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[Entered at Stationers' Hall.]





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> DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.



Plate Art of Cookery, to face Title.

Plate 1 to face page xxii.

2 ....... xxiv.

3 ....... xxv.

4 ....... xxvii.

3 ....... xxix.

6 and 7 (with the printed leaf of explanation, pages *28 and *29, placed between them) to face each other, and stand between pages 28 and 29.

8 to face page 81

9 ....... 83




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> CONTENTS.



INTRODUCTION.

Page

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS for the use of a mistress of a family.. i.

The art of carving.......xxiii.

PART I.

FISH.

To choose Fish...........1 to 3

Observations on dressing fish.................... 4

Turbot................... 5

To keep turbot........... 5

To boil turbot........... 6

Salmon................... 6

To boil salmon........... 6

To broil salmon.......... 6

To pot salmon............ 6

To dry salmon............ 7

An excellent dish of dried salmon.................. 7

To pickle salmon, 7. Another way..................... 7

Salmon collared.......... 8

Cod...................... 8

Observations on cod...... 8

Cod's head and shoulders. 8

Crimp cod................ 9

Cod sounds boiled, 9; broiled, 9. Ragout..... 9

Currie of cod............ 10

To dress salt cod........ 10

To roast sturgeon, 10. Another way............. 10

An excellent imitation of pickled sturgeon........ 11

Thornback and skate...... 11

Crimp skate.............. 11

Maids.................... 11

Boiled carp.............. 11

Stewed carp.............. 11

Baked carp............... 12

Perch and tench.......... 12

To fry trout and grayline, (and perch and tench the same way)........... 12

Trout à la Genevoise 12

Different ways of dressing mackerel................ 13

Pickled mackerel, called caveach................. 13

Red mullet............... 13

To dress pipers.......... 14

To bake pike............. 14

Different ways of dressing haddocks................ 14

To dry haddocks (and whitings the same way).. 14

Stuffing for pike, haddock, and small cod........... 14

Soles.................... 15

To boil or fry soles..... 15

Stewed soles and carp.... 15

Soles another way........ 15

Soles in the Portuguese way..................... 15

Portuguese stuffing for soles baked............. 16

An excellent way of dressing a large plaice, especially if there be a roe..................... 16

To fry smelts............ 16

Eels..................... 17



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Spitchcock eels............ 17

Fried eels................. 17

Boiled eels................ 17

Eel-broth, very nourishing for the sick, how to make...................... 17

Collared eel............... 17

To stew lamprey as at Worcester, (and eels, soles, and carp, in the same way)................. 17

Flounders.................. 18

To fry flounders........... 18

Water-souchy............... 18

Herrings and sprats........ 18

To smoke herrings.......... 18

Fried herrings............. 18

Broiled herrings........... 19

Potted herrings............ 19

To dress red-herrings...... 19

Baked herrings or sprats... 19

To broil sprats............ 19

Lobsters, Prawns, and Shrimps................... 19

To pot lobsters, 19. Another way, as at Wood's hotel, (and mackerel, herrings, and trout, in the same manner).......... 19

Stewed lobster, a very high relish............... 20

Buttered lobsers........... 20

To roast lobsters.......... 20

Currie of lobsters or prawns.................... 20

Prawns and cray-fish in jelly, a beautiful dish... 21

To butter prawns or shrimps................... 21

To pot shrimps............. 21

Crabs...................... 21

Hot crab................... 21

Dressed crab, cold......... 21

Oysters.................... 21

To feed oysters............ 21

To stew oysters............ 22

Boiled oysters............. 22

To scallop oysters......... 22

Fried oysters, to garnish boiled fish............... 22

Oyster-sauce; see SAUCES. Oyster-loaves.............. 22

Oyster-patties; see PATTIES. To pickle oysters, 22

Another way............... 23

PART II.

MEATS.

To choose meats....... 23to 25

Observations on purchasing, keeping, and dressing meat.................25 to 29

To keep meat hot........... 29

Venison.

To keep venison............ 29

To dress venison........... 29

Haunch, neck, and shoulder of venison................ 30

To stew a shoulder of venison................... 30

Breast of venison.......... 30

Hashed venison............. 30

Beef.

To keep beef............... 31

To salt beef or pork for eating immediately........ 31

To salt beef red........... 32

The Dutch way to salt beef...................... 32

Beef à-la-mode...... 32

A fricandeau of beef....... 33

To stew a rump of beef, 33. Another way............... 34

To stew brisket of beef.... 35

To press beef.............. 35

To make hunter's beef...... 35

An excellent mode of dressing beef............. 36

To collar beef............. 36

Beef-steaks................ 36



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Beef-steaks and oyster-sauce 37

Staffordshire beef-steaks.. 37

Italian beef-steaks........ 37

Beef-collop................ 37

Beef-palates............... 37

Beef-cakes for a side dish of dressed meat........... 38

To pot beef, 38. Another way....................... 38

To dress the inside of a cold sirloin of beef...... 38

Fricassee of cold roast beef...................... 39

To dress cold beef that has not been done enough, called Beef-olives, 39. The same called Sanders, 39. The same called Cecils 39

To mince beef.............. 39

To hash beef............... 40

Beef à-la-vingrette. 40

Round of beef.............. 40

Rolled beef that equals hare...................... 40

To roast tongue and udder.. 41

To pickle tongues for boiling, 41. Another way....................... 41

To stew tongue............. 42

An excellent way of doing tongues to eat cold....... 42

Beef heart................. 42

Stewed ox-cheek, plain..... 42

To dress an ox-cheek another way....................... 43

Marrow-bones............... 43

Tripe...................... 43

Soused tripe............... 43

Ox-feet, or cow-heels...... 44

Bubble and squeak.......... 44

Veal.

To keep veal............... 44

Leg of veal................ 44

Knuckle of veal............ 45

Shoulder of veal........... 45

Neck of veal............... 45

Neck of veal à-la-braise 46

Breast of veal............. 46

To roll a breast of veal, 46. Another way........... 47

To collar a breast of veal to eat cold............... 47

Chump of veal à-la-daube 47

Veal rolls of either cold meat or fresh............. 47

Harrico of veal............ 47

A dunelm of cold veal or fowl...................... 48

Minced veal................ 48

To pot veal................ 48

To pot veal or chicken with ham.................. 48

Cutlets Maintenon.......... 49

Cutlets another way, 49. Other ways................ 49

Veal collops............... 49

To dress collops quick, 49. Another way............... 50

Scallops of cold veal or chicken................... 50

Fricandeau of veal, 50. A cheaper, but equally good one, 50. Another way....................... 51

Veal-olives................ 51

Veal-cake.................. 51

Veal-sausages.............. 51

Scotch collops............. 52

To boil calf's head........ 52

To hash calf's head, 52. Another way............... 52

Calf's head fricasseed..... 53

To collar calf's head...... 54

Mock turtle, 54. A cheaper way, 54. Another. 55

Another mock turtle........ 55

Calf's liver, 55. Roasted. 55



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To dress the liver and lights.................... 56

Sweetbreads, 56. Roasted.. 56

Sweetbread ragout.......... 56

Veal-kidney................ 56

Pork, &c.

Observations on cutting up and dressing pork...... 56

To roast a leg of pork..... 57

To boil a leg of pork...... 57

Loin and neck of pork...... 58

Shoulders and breasts of pork...................... 58

Rolled neck of pork........ 58

Spring or forehand or pork. 58

Sparerib................... 58

Pork-griskin............... 58

Blade-bone of pork......... 58

To dress pork as lamb...... 59

Pork-steaks................ 59

To pickle pork............. 59

Sausages................... 59

An excellent sausage to eat cold.................. 59

Spadbury's Oxford sausages. 60

To scald a sucking pig..... 60

To roast a sucking pig..... 60

Pettitoes.................. 61

To make excellent meat of a hog's head........... 61

To roast porker's head..... 62

To prepare pig's cheek for boiling................... 62

To collar pig's head....... 62

To dry hog's cheeks........ 63

To force hog's ears........ 63

Different ways of dressing pig's feet and ears....... 63

Pig's feet and ears fricasseed................ 63

Jelly of pig's feet and ears 64

Pig's harslet.............. 64

Mock-brawn................. 64

Souse for brawn, and for pig's feet and ears....... 64

To make black puddings, 64. Two other ways....... 65

White hog's puddings....... 66

Hog's-lard................. 66

To cure hams, 66. Two other ways, 67. Another way that gives a high flavour, 67. A method of giving a still higher flavour............ 67

To make a pickle that will keep for years, for hams, tongues, or beef, if boiled and skimmed between each parcel of them...................... 68

To dress hams.............. 68

Excellent bacon............ 69

The manner of curing Wiltshire bacon........... 69

Mutton.

Observations on keeping and dressing mutton....... 69

Leg of mutton.............. 70

Neck of mutton............. 70

Shoulder of mutton roasted. 70

To dress haunch of mutton.. 71

To roast a saddle of mutton 71

Fillet of mutton braised... 71

Harrico.................... 71

To hash mutton............. 72

To boil shoulder of mutton with oysters.............. 72

Breast of mutton........... 72

Loin of mutton............. 73

To roll loin of mutton..... 73

Mutton ham................. 73

Mutton collops............. 73



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Mutton cutlets in the Portuguese way............ 74

Mutton steaks.............. 74

Steaks of mutton, or lamb, and cucumbers............. 74

Mutton steaks Maintenon.... 74

Mutton-sausages............ 74

To dress mutton rumps and kidneys............... 75

An excellent hotch-potch, 75. Another.............. 75

Mutton kebobbed............ 75

China chilo................ 76

Lamb.

Leg of lamb................ 76

Fore-quarter of lamb....... 76

Breast of lamb and cucumbers 76

Shoulder of lamb forced, with sorrel-sauce......... 76

Lamb-steaks................ 77

House-lamb steaks, white, 77. Brown................ 77

Lamb-cutlets with spinach.. 77

Lamb's head and hinge...... 77

Lamb's fry................. 78

Lamb's sweetbreads......... 78

Fricasseed lambstones...... 78

Fricassee of lambstones and sweetbreads, another way....................... 78

A very nice dish of lamb... 79

PART III.

POULTRY, GAME, &C.

To choose poultry......79 to 81

Directions for dressing poultry and game.......... 81
Poultry.

To boil turkies............ 81

To roast turkies........... 82

Pulled turkey.............. 83

To boil fowl, 82; with rice...................... 83

Fowls roasted.............. 83

Fowls broiled 83. Another way....................... 83

Davenport fowls............ 83

A nice way to dress a fowl for a small dish..... 84

To force a fowl, &c.... 84

To braise a fowl, &c... 84

Fricassee of chickens...... 84

To pull chickens, 85. Another way............... 85

Chicken-currie, 85. Another, more easily made.......... 86

To braise chickens......... 86

Ducks roasted.............. 86

To boil ducks.............. 87

To stew ducks.............. 87

To hash ducks.............. 87

To roast a goose........... 87

To stew giblets............ 87

Observations on dressing pigeons................... 87

To stew pigeons, 88. Another way............... 88

To broil pigeons........... 88

Roast pigeons.............. 88

To pickle pigeons.......... 88

Pigeons in jelly, 89. The same, a beautiful dish.... 89

To pot pigeons............. 90

Larks and other small birds..................... 90

Game, &c.

To keep game, &c....... 90

To dress pheasants and partridges................ 91

To pot partridge........... 91

A very cheap way of potting birds..................... 91

To clarify butter for potted things.................... 92

To pot moor-game........... 92

To dress grouse............ 92



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To roast wild-fowl......... 92

To dress wild ducks, teal, widgeon, dun-birds, &c 92

Woodcocks, snipes, and quails.................... 93

Ruffs and reeves........... 93

To dress plovers........... 93

Plovers' eggs.............. 93

To rosat ortolans.......... 93

Guinea and pea-fowl........ 93

Observations on dressing hares..................... 93

To roast hare.............. 94

To jug an old hare......... 94

Broiled and hashed hare.... 95

To pot hare................ 95

Different ways of dressing rabbits................... 95

To make a rabbit taste much like hare............ 96

To pot rabbits............. 96

To blanch rabbit, fowl, &c. 96

PART IV.

SOUPS AND GRAVIES.

General directions respecting soups and gravies......... 96

Soups, &c.

Scotch mutton-broth........ 97

Veal-broth................. 98

Colouring for soups or gravies................... 98

A clear brown stock for gravy-soup of gravy....... 98

An excellent soup.......... 98

An excellent white soup, 98. A plainer one......... 99

Giblet soup................ 99

Partridge soup............. 100

Macaroni soup.............. 100

A pepper-pot, to be served in a tureen............... 100

Turnip soup................ 100

Old-peas soup.............. 101

Green-peas soup............ 101

Gravy-soup................. 102

Vegetable soup, 102. Another way............... 103

Carrot soup................ 103

Onion soup................. 103

Spinach soup............... 103

Scotch leek-soup........... 104

Hare soup.................. 104

Ox-rump soup............... 104

Hessian soup and ragout.... 104

Soup à-la-sap....... 105

Portable soup.............. 105

Soup-maigre, 106. Another. 106

Stock for brown or white fish soups................ 106

Eel-soup................... 107

Skate soup................. 107

Excellent lobster soup..... 107

Craw-fish or prawn soup.... 108

Oyster-soup................ 108

Gravies.

General directions respecting gravies........ 108

To draw gravy that will keep a week............... 109

Clear gravy................ 109

Cullis, or brown gravy..... 109

Bechamel, or white sauce... 110

A gravy without meat....... 110

A rich gravy............... 110

Gravy for a fowl when there is no meat to make it of................ 111

Veal gravy................. 111

Gravy to make mutton eat like venison.............. 111

Strong fish gravy.......... 111

Savoury jelly, to put over cold pies................. 111

PART V.

SAUCES, &C.



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A very good sauce, especially to hide the bad colour of fowls........... 112

White sauce for fricassee of fowls, rabbits, white meat, fish, or vegetables. 112

Sauce for wild fowl........ 113

Another for the same, or for ducks................. 113

An excellent sauce for carp, or boiled turkey.... 113

Sauce for fowl of any sort. 113

Sauce for cold fowl, or partridge................. 114

A very fine mushroom sauce for fowls, or rabbits................... 114

Lemon white sauce, for boiled fowls.............. 114

Liver sauce................ 114

Egg sauce.................. 114

Onion sauce................ 114

Clear shalot sauce......... 115

To make parsley sauce when no parsley leaves are to be had............. 115
Greeen sauce, for green

geese, or ducklings....... 115

Bread sauce................ 115

Dutch sauce, for meat or fish...................... 115

Sauce Robart, for rumps or steaks................. 115

Benton sauce, for hot or cold roast beef........... 116

Sauce for fish pies, where cream is not ordered, 116. Another.............. 116

Tomata sauce, for hot or cold meats................ 116

Apple sauce, for goose and roast pork............ 116

The old currant sauce for venison................... 117

Lemon sauce................ 117

Carrier sauce for mutton... 117

Ham sauce.................. 117

A very fine fish-sauce..... 117

Fish sauce without butter.. 118

Fish sauce à-la-Craster 118 An excellent substitute for caper sauce........... 118

Oyster sauce............... 119

Lobster sauce.............. 119

Shrimp sauce............... 119

Anchovy sauce.............. 119

To melt butter; which is rarely well done, tough an essential article...... 120

Vingaret, for cold fowl, or meat...................... 120

Shalot vinegar............. 120

Camp vinegar............... 120

Sugar vinegar.............. 120

Gooseberry vinegar......... 120

Cucumber vinegar........... 121

Wine vinegar............... 121

Nasturtions, for capers.... 121

To make mustard............ 121

Another way to make mustard, for immediate use....................... 122

Kitchen pepper............. 122

To dry mushrooms........... 122

Mushroom powder............ 122

To choose anchovies........ 123

Essence of anchovies....... 123

To keep anchovies when the liquor dries.......... 123

To make sprats taste like anchovies................. 123

Force-meat................. 123

Force-meat ingredients..... 124

Force-meat, to force fowls or meat, 124; for cold savoury pies.............. 125

Very fine force-meat balls, for fish-soups, or fish stewed, on maigre-days.... 125

Force-meat, as for turtle, at The Bush, Bristol...... 125

Little eggs for turtle..... 126



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Browning to colour and flavour made-dishes....... 126

Casserol, or rice edging for a currie or fricassee. 126

PART VI.

PIES, PUDDINGS, AND PASTRY.

Savoury Pies.

Observations on savoury pies...................... 126

Eel pie.................... 127

Cod-pie.................... 127

Sole pie................... 128

Shrimp pie, excellent...... 128

Lobster pie................ 128

A remarkably fine fish-pie. 128

Pilchard and leek pie...... 129

Beef-steak pie............. 129

Veal pie, 129. A rich one 129

Veal (or chicken) and parsley pie............... 130

Veal-olive pie............. 130

Calf's-head pie............ 130

Pork pies, to eat cold..... 131

Mutton pie................. 131

Squab pie.................. 132

Lamb pie................... 132

Chicken pie (and rabbits the same way)............. 132

Green-goose pie............ 133

Duck pie................... 133

Giblet pie................. 133

Pigeon pie................. 134

Partridge pie in a dish.... 134

Hare pie, to eat cold...... 134

A French pie............... 134

Vegetable pie.............. 134

Parsley pie................ 135

Turnip pie................. 135

Potatoe pie................ 135

A herb pie................. 135

Raised crust formeat pies, or fowls, &c.......... 135

Puddings, &c.

Observations on making puddings and pancakes..... 136

Almond puddings, 137 Baked, 137. Small ones.... 137

Sago pudding............... 137

Bread-and-butter pudding... 138

Orange pudding, three sorts..................... 138

An excellent lemon pudding. 138

A very fine amber pudding.. 138

Baked apple-pudding........ 139

Oatmeal pudding............ 139

Dutch pudding, or sonster.. 139

A Dutch rice pudding....... 139

Light or German puddings or puffs.................. 140

Little bread puddings...... 140

Puddings in haste.......... 140

New-college puddings....... 140

Boiled bread pudding, 141. Another and richer.................... 140

Brown-bread pudding........ 141

Nelson puddings............ 141

Eve's pudding.............. 142

Quaking pudding............ 142

Duke of Cumberland's pudding................... 142

Transparent pudding........ 142

Batter pudding, 142. With meat...................... 143

Rice small puddings........ 143

Plain rice-pudding......... 143

A rich rice-pudding........ 143

Rice pudding with fruit.... 144

Baked rice pudding, 144. Another, for the family... 144

A George pudding........... 144

An excellent plain potatoe pudding................... 145



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Potatoe poudding with meat...................... 145

Steak or kidney pudding 145

Beef-steak poudding, 145. Baked..................... 145

Mutton pudding, 145 Another................... 146

Suet pudding............... 146

Veal-suet pudding.......... 146

Hunter's pudding........... 146

Common plum-pudding........ 147

Custard pudding............ 147

Macaroni pudding........... 147

Millet pudding............. 147

Carrot pudding............. 147

An excellent apricot pudding................... 148

Baked gooseberry-pudding... 148

A green-bean pudding....... 148

Shelford pudding........... 148

Brandy pudding............. 148

Buttermilk pudding......... 149

Curd-puddings or puffs..... 149

Boiled curd pudding........ 149

Pippin-pudding............. 149

Yorkshire pudding.......... 150

A quick made pudding....... 150

Russian seed, or ground-rice, pudding................... 150

A Welch pudding............ 150

Oxford dumplings........... 150

Suet dumplings............. 151

Apple, currant, or damson, dumplings or puddings..... 151

Yeast or Suffolk dumplings. 151

A Charlotte................ 151

Common pancakes............ 152

Fine pancakes, fried without butter or lard............ 152

Pancakes of rice........... 152

Irish pancakes............. 152

New-England pancakes....... 152

Fritters................... 153

Spanish fritters........... 153

Potatoe fritters, 153

Another way............... 153

Bockings................... 153

Pastry.

Rich puff paste............ 154

A less rich paste.......... 154

Crust for venison pasty.... 154

Rice paste for sweets...... 154

rich paste for relishing things.................... 155

Potatoe paste.............. 155

Raised crusts for custards or fruits................. 155

Excellent short crusts, three ways of making them...................... 155

A very fine crust for orange cheese-cakes, or sweetmeats when wanted to be particularly nice...................... 156

Observations on pastry..... 156

Remark on using preserved fruit in pastry........... 156

Apple pie, 157. Hot apple pie....................... 157

Cherry pie................. 157

Mince pie, 157. Without meat...................... 157

Lemon mince pies........... 158

Egg mince pies............. 158

Currant and raspberry pie or tart................... 158

Light paste for tarts and cheesecakes............... 158

Icing for tarts............ 158

Pippin tarts............... 159

Prune tart................. 159

Orange tart................ 159

Cod in tart................ 159

Rhubarb tart............... 160

Raspberry tart with cream.. 160

Orange tart................ 160

Fried patties.............. 160



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Oyster patties, 160. The same, or small pie........ 161

Lobster patties............ 161

Podovies, or beef patties.. 161

Veal Patties............... 161

Turkey patties............. 161

Sweet patties.............. 162

Patties resembling mince- pies...................... 162

Apple puffs................ 162

Lemon puffs................ 162

Cheese puffs............... 162

Excellent light puffs...... 163

To prepare venison for pasty..................... 163

Venison pasty.............. 163
To make a pasty of beef

or mutton, to eat as well as venison................ 164

Potatoe pasty.............. 164

Cheap and excellent cus- tards..................... 165

Richer custards............ 165

Baked custard.............. 165

Lemon custard.............. 165

Almond custard............. 166

Cheesecakes, 166. A plain- er way, 166. Another way...................... 166

Lemon cheesecakes, 166

Another way.............. 167

Orange cheesecakes......... 167

Potatoe cheesecakes........ 167

Almond cheesecakes..., three ways................ 167

PART VII.

VEGETABLES.

Observations on dressing vegetables................ 168

To boil vegetables green... 168

How to boil vegetables green in hard water....... 169

To keep green peas......... 169

Method of keeping green peas, as practised in the emperor of Russia's kitchen................... 169

Boiled peas................ 169

To stew green peas......... 169

To stew old peas........... 170

To dress artichokes........ 170

Artichoke-bottoms.......... 170

Jerusalem artichokes....... 170

To stew cucumbers, 170. Another way.............. 170

To stew onions............. 171

Roast onions............... 171

To stew celery............. 171

To boil cauliflowers....... 171

Cauliflower in white sauce. 171

To dress cauliflower and Parmesan................. 171

To dress brocoli........... 172

Spinach.................... 172

To dress beans............. 172

Fricasseed Windsor beans... 172

French beans............... 172

To stew red cabbage, three ways................ 172

Mushrooms.................. 173

To stew mushrooms.......... 173

To stew sorrel for frican- dean and roast meat...... 174

French salad............... 174

Lobster salad.............. 174

To boil potatoes........... 174

To broil potatoes.......... 174

To roast potatoes.......... 175

To mash potatoes........... 175

Carrots.................... 175

To stew carrots............ 175

To mash parsnips........... 175

Fricassee of parsnips...... 175

To dress chardoons......... 176

Beet-roots................. 176

Frying-herbs, as dressed in Staffordshire......... 176

Sea-cale................... 177

Laver...................... 177



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To preserve several vege- tables to eat in winter : French beans, 177. Car- rots, parsnips, and beet- roots, 177. Store-onions, 177. Parsley, 177. Arti- choke-bottoms, truffles, morels, &c. 178. Cab- bages....................... 178

Pickles.

Rules to be observed with pickles.................... 178