Title: A New System of Domestic Cookery
Author: Rundell, Maria Eliza Ketelby
Publisher: London : printed for J. Murray.
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[Editorial note: The following text is a handwritten inscription:]
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[Illustration: An Illustration of a Kitchen with Diffrent Animals and Utensils are Scattered around.]
Published as the [GAP IN TEXT. Type: . Extent: one word] directs, Nov 21st 1805, by J. Murray.
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[Editorial note: Hand written Signature]
Margt. [GAP IN TEXT. Type: . Extent: one word]
A
NEW SYSTEM
OF
DOMESTIC COOKERY;
FORMED UPON
PRINCIPLES OF ECONOMY,
And adapted to the Use of
PRIVATE FAMILIES.
BY A LADY.
A NEW EDITION, CORRECTED:
PRINTED FOR JOHN MURRAY, FLEET-STREET; J. HARDING,
ST. JAMES'S-STREET; AND A. CONSTABLE AND CO.
EDINBURGH;
At the Union Printing-Office, St. John's Square, by W. Wilson.
1807.
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> ADVERTISEMENT.
AS the following directions were intended for the conduct of the families of the authoress's own daughters, and for the arrangement of their table so as to unite a good figure with proper economy, she has avoided all excessive luxury, such as essence of ham, and that wasteful expenditure of large quantities of meat for gravy, which so greatly contributes to keep up the price, and is no less injurious to those who eat than to those whose penury obliges them to abstain. Many receipts are given for things, which being in daily use, the mode of preparing them may be supposed too well known to require a place in a cookery-book; yet how rarely do we meet with fine melted butter, good toast and water, or well-made coffee! She makes no apology for minuteness in some articles, or for leaving others unnoticed, because she does not write for professed cooks. This little work would have been a treasure to herself when she first set out in life, and she therefore hopes it may prove useful to others. In that expectation it is given to the Public; and as she will receive from it no emolument, so she trusts it will escape without censure.
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> CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
Page
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS for the use of a mistress of a family.. i.
The art of carving.......xxiii.
PART I.
FISH.
To choose Fish...........1 to 3
Observations on dressing fish.................... 4
Turbot................... 5
To keep turbot........... 5
To boil turbot........... 6
Salmon................... 6
To boil salmon........... 6
To broil salmon.......... 6
To pot salmon............ 6
To dry salmon............ 7
An excellent dish of dried salmon.................. 7
To pickle salmon, 7. Another way..................... 7
Salmon collared.......... 8
Cod...................... 8
Observations on cod...... 8
Cod's head and shoulders. 8
Crimp cod................ 9
Cod sounds boiled, 9; broiled, 9. Ragout..... 9
Currie of cod............ 10
To dress salt cod........ 10
To roast sturgeon, 10. Another way............. 10
An excellent imitation of pickled sturgeon........ 11
Thornback and skate...... 11
Crimp skate.............. 11
Maids.................... 11
Boiled carp.............. 11
Stewed carp.............. 11
Baked carp............... 12
Perch and tench.......... 12
To fry trout and grayline, (and perch and tench the same way)........... 12
Trout à la Genevoise 12
Different ways of dressing mackerel................ 13
Pickled mackerel, called caveach................. 13
Red mullet............... 13
To dress pipers.......... 14
To bake pike............. 14
Different ways of dressing haddocks................ 14
To dry haddocks (and whitings the same way).. 14
Stuffing for pike, haddock, and small cod........... 14
Soles.................... 15
To boil or fry soles..... 15
Stewed soles and carp.... 15
Soles another way........ 15
Soles in the Portuguese way..................... 15
Portuguese stuffing for soles baked............. 16
An excellent way of dressing a large plaice, especially if there be a roe..................... 16
To fry smelts............ 16
Eels..................... 17
Page
Spitchcock eels............ 17
Fried eels................. 17
Boiled eels................ 17
Eel-broth, very nourishing for the sick, how to make...................... 17
Collared eel............... 17
To stew lamprey as at Worcester, (and eels, soles, and carp, in the same way)................. 17
Flounders.................. 18
To fry flounders........... 18
Water-souchy............... 18
Herrings and sprats........ 18
To smoke herrings.......... 18
Fried herrings............. 18
Broiled herrings........... 19
Potted herrings............ 19
To dress red-herrings...... 19
Baked herrings or sprats... 19
To broil sprats............ 19
Lobsters, Prawns, and Shrimps................... 19
To pot lobsters, 19. Another way, as at Wood's hotel, (and mackerel, herrings, and trout, in the same manner).......... 19
Stewed lobster, a very high relish............... 20
Buttered lobsers........... 20
To roast lobsters.......... 20
Currie of lobsters or prawns.................... 20
Prawns and cray-fish in jelly, a beautiful dish... 21
To butter prawns or shrimps................... 21
To pot shrimps............. 21
Crabs...................... 21
Hot crab................... 21
Dressed crab, cold......... 21
Oysters.................... 21
To feed oysters............ 21
To stew oysters............ 22
Boiled oysters............. 22
To scallop oysters......... 22
Fried oysters, to garnish boiled fish............... 22
Oyster-sauce; see SAUCES. Oyster-loaves.............. 22
Oyster-patties; see PATTIES. To pickle oysters, 22
Another way............... 23
PART II.
MEATS.
To choose meats....... 23to 25
Observations on purchasing, keeping, and dressing meat.................25 to 29
To keep meat hot........... 29
Venison.
To keep venison............ 29
To dress venison........... 29
Haunch, neck, and shoulder of venison................ 30
To stew a shoulder of venison................... 30
Breast of venison.......... 30
Hashed venison............. 30
Beef.
To keep beef............... 31
To salt beef or pork for eating immediately........ 31
To salt beef red........... 32
The Dutch way to salt beef...................... 32
Beef à-la-mode...... 32
A fricandeau of beef....... 33
To stew a rump of beef, 33. Another way............... 34
To stew brisket of beef.... 35
To press beef.............. 35
To make hunter's beef...... 35
An excellent mode of dressing beef............. 36
To collar beef............. 36
Beef-steaks................ 36
Page
Beef-steaks and oyster-sauce 37
Staffordshire beef-steaks.. 37
Italian beef-steaks........ 37
Beef-collop................ 37
Beef-palates............... 37
Beef-cakes for a side dish of dressed meat........... 38
To pot beef, 38. Another way....................... 38
To dress the inside of a cold sirloin of beef...... 38
Fricassee of cold roast beef...................... 39
To dress cold beef that has not been done enough, called Beef-olives, 39. The same called Sanders, 39. The same called Cecils 39
To mince beef.............. 39
To hash beef............... 40
Beef à-la-vingrette. 40
Round of beef.............. 40
Rolled beef that equals hare...................... 40
To roast tongue and udder.. 41
To pickle tongues for boiling, 41. Another way....................... 41
To stew tongue............. 42
An excellent way of doing tongues to eat cold....... 42
Beef heart................. 42
Stewed ox-cheek, plain..... 42
To dress an ox-cheek another way....................... 43
Marrow-bones............... 43
Tripe...................... 43
Soused tripe............... 43
Ox-feet, or cow-heels...... 44
Bubble and squeak.......... 44
Veal.
To keep veal............... 44
Leg of veal................ 44
Knuckle of veal............ 45
Shoulder of veal........... 45
Neck of veal............... 45
Neck of veal à-la-braise 46
Breast of veal............. 46
To roll a breast of veal, 46. Another way........... 47
To collar a breast of veal to eat cold............... 47
Chump of veal à-la-daube 47
Veal rolls of either cold meat or fresh............. 47
Harrico of veal............ 47
A dunelm of cold veal or fowl...................... 48
Minced veal................ 48
To pot veal................ 48
To pot veal or chicken with ham.................. 48
Cutlets Maintenon.......... 49
Cutlets another way, 49. Other ways................ 49
Veal collops............... 49
To dress collops quick, 49. Another way............... 50
Scallops of cold veal or chicken................... 50
Fricandeau of veal, 50. A cheaper, but equally good one, 50. Another way....................... 51
Veal-olives................ 51
Veal-cake.................. 51
Veal-sausages.............. 51
Scotch collops............. 52
To boil calf's head........ 52
To hash calf's head, 52. Another way............... 52
Calf's head fricasseed..... 53
To collar calf's head...... 54
Mock turtle, 54. A cheaper way, 54. Another. 55
Another mock turtle........ 55
Calf's liver, 55. Roasted. 55
Page
To dress the liver and lights.................... 56
Sweetbreads, 56. Roasted.. 56
Sweetbread ragout.......... 56
Veal-kidney................ 56
Pork, &c.
Observations on cutting up and dressing pork...... 56
To roast a leg of pork..... 57
To boil a leg of pork...... 57
Loin and neck of pork...... 58
Shoulders and breasts of pork...................... 58
Rolled neck of pork........ 58
Spring or forehand or pork. 58
Sparerib................... 58
Pork-griskin............... 58
Blade-bone of pork......... 58
To dress pork as lamb...... 59
Pork-steaks................ 59
To pickle pork............. 59
Sausages................... 59
An excellent sausage to eat cold.................. 59
Spadbury's Oxford sausages. 60
To scald a sucking pig..... 60
To roast a sucking pig..... 60
Pettitoes.................. 61
To make excellent meat of a hog's head........... 61
To roast porker's head..... 62
To prepare pig's cheek for boiling................... 62
To collar pig's head....... 62
To dry hog's cheeks........ 63
To force hog's ears........ 63
Different ways of dressing pig's feet and ears....... 63
Pig's feet and ears fricasseed................ 63
Jelly of pig's feet and ears 64
Pig's harslet.............. 64
Mock-brawn................. 64
Souse for brawn, and for pig's feet and ears....... 64
To make black puddings, 64. Two other ways....... 65
White hog's puddings....... 66
Hog's-lard................. 66
To cure hams, 66. Two other ways, 67. Another way that gives a high flavour, 67. A method of giving a still higher flavour............ 67
To make a pickle that will keep for years, for hams, tongues, or beef, if boiled and skimmed between each parcel of them...................... 68
To dress hams.............. 68
Excellent bacon............ 69
The manner of curing Wiltshire bacon........... 69
Mutton.
Observations on keeping and dressing mutton....... 69
Leg of mutton.............. 70
Neck of mutton............. 70
Shoulder of mutton roasted. 70
To dress haunch of mutton.. 71
To roast a saddle of mutton 71
Fillet of mutton braised... 71
Harrico.................... 71
To hash mutton............. 72
To boil shoulder of mutton with oysters.............. 72
Breast of mutton........... 72
Loin of mutton............. 73
To roll loin of mutton..... 73
Mutton ham................. 73
Mutton collops............. 73
Page
Mutton cutlets in the Portuguese way............ 74
Mutton steaks.............. 74
Steaks of mutton, or lamb, and cucumbers............. 74
Mutton steaks Maintenon.... 74
Mutton-sausages............ 74
To dress mutton rumps and kidneys............... 75
An excellent hotch-potch, 75. Another.............. 75
Mutton kebobbed............ 75
China chilo................ 76
Lamb.
Leg of lamb................ 76
Fore-quarter of lamb....... 76
Breast of lamb and cucumbers 76
Shoulder of lamb forced, with sorrel-sauce......... 76
Lamb-steaks................ 77
House-lamb steaks, white, 77. Brown................ 77
Lamb-cutlets with spinach.. 77
Lamb's head and hinge...... 77
Lamb's fry................. 78
Lamb's sweetbreads......... 78
Fricasseed lambstones...... 78
Fricassee of lambstones and sweetbreads, another way....................... 78
A very nice dish of lamb... 79
PART III.
POULTRY, GAME, &C.
To choose poultry......79 to 81
Directions for dressing poultry and game.......... 81 Poultry.
To boil turkies............ 81
To roast turkies........... 82
Pulled turkey.............. 83
To boil fowl, 82; with rice...................... 83
Fowls roasted.............. 83
Fowls broiled 83. Another way....................... 83
Davenport fowls............ 83
A nice way to dress a fowl for a small dish..... 84
To force a fowl, &c.... 84
To braise a fowl, &c... 84
Fricassee of chickens...... 84
To pull chickens, 85. Another way............... 85
Chicken-currie, 85. Another, more easily made.......... 86
To braise chickens......... 86
Ducks roasted.............. 86
To boil ducks.............. 87
To stew ducks.............. 87
To hash ducks.............. 87
To roast a goose........... 87
To stew giblets............ 87
Observations on dressing pigeons................... 87
To stew pigeons, 88. Another way............... 88
To broil pigeons........... 88
Roast pigeons.............. 88
To pickle pigeons.......... 88
Pigeons in jelly, 89. The same, a beautiful dish.... 89
To pot pigeons............. 90
Larks and other small birds..................... 90
Game, &c.
To keep game, &c....... 90
To dress pheasants and partridges................ 91
To pot partridge........... 91
A very cheap way of potting birds..................... 91
To clarify butter for potted things.................... 92
To pot moor-game........... 92
To dress grouse............ 92
Page
To roast wild-fowl......... 92
To dress wild ducks, teal, widgeon, dun-birds, &c 92
Woodcocks, snipes, and quails.................... 93
Ruffs and reeves........... 93
To dress plovers........... 93
Plovers' eggs.............. 93
To rosat ortolans.......... 93
Guinea and pea-fowl........ 93
Observations on dressing hares..................... 93
To roast hare.............. 94
To jug an old hare......... 94
Broiled and hashed hare.... 95
To pot hare................ 95
Different ways of dressing rabbits................... 95
To make a rabbit taste much like hare............ 96
To pot rabbits............. 96
To blanch rabbit, fowl, &c. 96
PART IV.
SOUPS AND GRAVIES.
General directions respecting soups and gravies......... 96
Soups, &c.
Scotch mutton-broth........ 97
Veal-broth................. 98
Colouring for soups or gravies................... 98
A clear brown stock for gravy-soup of gravy....... 98
An excellent soup.......... 98
An excellent white soup, 98. A plainer one......... 99
Giblet soup................ 99
Partridge soup............. 100
Macaroni soup.............. 100
A pepper-pot, to be served in a tureen............... 100
Turnip soup................ 100
Old-peas soup.............. 101
Green-peas soup............ 101
Gravy-soup................. 102
Vegetable soup, 102. Another way............... 103
Carrot soup................ 103
Onion soup................. 103
Spinach soup............... 103
Scotch leek-soup........... 104
Hare soup.................. 104
Ox-rump soup............... 104
Hessian soup and ragout.... 104
Soup à-la-sap....... 105
Portable soup.............. 105
Soup-maigre, 106. Another. 106
Stock for brown or white fish soups................ 106
Eel-soup................... 107
Skate soup................. 107
Excellent lobster soup..... 107
Craw-fish or prawn soup.... 108
Oyster-soup................ 108
Gravies.
General directions respecting gravies........ 108
To draw gravy that will keep a week............... 109
Clear gravy................ 109
Cullis, or brown gravy..... 109
Bechamel, or white sauce... 110
A gravy without meat....... 110
A rich gravy............... 110
Gravy for a fowl when there is no meat to make it of................ 111
Veal gravy................. 111
Gravy to make mutton eat like venison.............. 111
Strong fish gravy.......... 111
Savoury jelly, to put over cold pies................. 111
PART V.
SAUCES, &C.
Page
A very good sauce, especially to hide the bad colour of fowls........... 112
White sauce for fricassee of fowls, rabbits, white meat, fish, or vegetables. 112
Sauce for wild fowl........ 113
Another for the same, or for ducks................. 113
An excellent sauce for carp, or boiled turkey.... 113
Sauce for fowl of any sort. 113
Sauce for cold fowl, or partridge................. 114
A very fine mushroom sauce for fowls, or rabbits................... 114
Lemon white sauce, for boiled fowls.............. 114
Liver sauce................ 114
Egg sauce.................. 114
Onion sauce................ 114
Clear shalot sauce......... 115
To make parsley sauce when no parsley leaves are to be had............. 115 Greeen sauce, for green
geese, or ducklings....... 115
Bread sauce................ 115
Dutch sauce, for meat or fish...................... 115
Sauce Robart, for rumps or steaks................. 115
Benton sauce, for hot or cold roast beef........... 116
Sauce for fish pies, where cream is not ordered, 116. Another.............. 116
Tomata sauce, for hot or cold meats................ 116
Apple sauce, for goose and roast pork............ 116
The old currant sauce for venison................... 117
Lemon sauce................ 117
Carrier sauce for mutton... 117
Ham sauce.................. 117
A very fine fish-sauce..... 117
Fish sauce without butter.. 118
Fish sauce à-la-Craster 118 An excellent substitute for caper sauce........... 118
Oyster sauce............... 119
Lobster sauce.............. 119
Shrimp sauce............... 119
Anchovy sauce.............. 119
To melt butter; which is rarely well done, tough an essential article...... 120
Vingaret, for cold fowl, or meat...................... 120
Shalot vinegar............. 120
Camp vinegar............... 120
Sugar vinegar.............. 120
Gooseberry vinegar......... 120
Cucumber vinegar........... 121
Wine vinegar............... 121
Nasturtions, for capers.... 121
To make mustard............ 121
Another way to make mustard, for immediate use....................... 122
Kitchen pepper............. 122
To dry mushrooms........... 122
Mushroom powder............ 122
To choose anchovies........ 123
Essence of anchovies....... 123
To keep anchovies when the liquor dries.......... 123
To make sprats taste like anchovies................. 123
Force-meat................. 123
Force-meat ingredients..... 124
Force-meat, to force fowls or meat, 124; for cold savoury pies.............. 125
Very fine force-meat balls, for fish-soups, or fish stewed, on maigre-days.... 125
Force-meat, as for turtle, at The Bush, Bristol...... 125
Little eggs for turtle..... 126
Page
Browning to colour and flavour made-dishes....... 126
Casserol, or rice edging for a currie or fricassee. 126
PART VI.
PIES, PUDDINGS, AND PASTRY.
Savoury Pies.
Observations on savoury pies...................... 126
Eel pie.................... 127
Cod-pie.................... 127
Sole pie................... 128
Shrimp pie, excellent...... 128
Lobster pie................ 128
A remarkably fine fish-pie. 128
Pilchard and leek pie...... 129
Beef-steak pie............. 129
Veal pie, 129. A rich one 129
Veal (or chicken) and parsley pie............... 130
Veal-olive pie............. 130
Calf's-head pie............ 130
Pork pies, to eat cold..... 131
Mutton pie................. 131
Squab pie.................. 132
Lamb pie................... 132
Chicken pie (and rabbits the same way)............. 132
Green-goose pie............ 133
Duck pie................... 133
Giblet pie................. 133
Pigeon pie................. 134
Partridge pie in a dish.... 134
Hare pie, to eat cold...... 134
A French pie............... 134
Vegetable pie.............. 134
Parsley pie................ 135
Turnip pie................. 135
Potatoe pie................ 135
A herb pie................. 135
Raised crust formeat pies, or fowls, &c.......... 135
Puddings, &c.
Observations on making puddings and pancakes..... 136
Almond puddings, 137 Baked, 137. Small ones.... 137
Sago pudding............... 137
Bread-and-butter pudding... 138
Orange pudding, three sorts..................... 138
An excellent lemon pudding. 138
A very fine amber pudding.. 138
Baked apple-pudding........ 139
Oatmeal pudding............ 139
Dutch pudding, or sonster.. 139
A Dutch rice pudding....... 139
Light or German puddings or puffs.................. 140
Little bread puddings...... 140
Puddings in haste.......... 140
New-college puddings....... 140
Boiled bread pudding, 141. Another and richer.................... 140
Brown-bread pudding........ 141
Nelson puddings............ 141
Eve's pudding.............. 142
Quaking pudding............ 142
Duke of Cumberland's pudding................... 142
Transparent pudding........ 142
Batter pudding, 142. With meat...................... 143
Rice small puddings........ 143
Plain rice-pudding......... 143
A rich rice-pudding........ 143
Rice pudding with fruit.... 144
Baked rice pudding, 144. Another, for the family... 144
A George pudding........... 144
An excellent plain potatoe pudding................... 145
Page
Potatoe poudding with meat...................... 145
Steak or kidney pudding 145
Beef-steak poudding, 145. Baked..................... 145
Mutton pudding, 145 Another................... 146
Suet pudding............... 146
Veal-suet pudding.......... 146
Hunter's pudding........... 146
Common plum-pudding........ 147
Custard pudding............ 147
Macaroni pudding........... 147
Millet pudding............. 147
Carrot pudding............. 147
An excellent apricot pudding................... 148
Baked gooseberry-pudding... 148
A green-bean pudding....... 148
Shelford pudding........... 148
Brandy pudding............. 148
Buttermilk pudding......... 149
Curd-puddings or puffs..... 149
Boiled curd pudding........ 149
Pippin-pudding............. 149
Yorkshire pudding.......... 150
A quick made pudding....... 150
Russian seed, or ground-rice, pudding................... 150
A Welch pudding............ 150
Oxford dumplings........... 150
Suet dumplings............. 151
Apple, currant, or damson, dumplings or puddings..... 151
Yeast or Suffolk dumplings. 151
A Charlotte................ 151
Common pancakes............ 152
Fine pancakes, fried without butter or lard............ 152
Pancakes of rice........... 152
Irish pancakes............. 152
New-England pancakes....... 152
Fritters................... 153
Spanish fritters........... 153
Potatoe fritters, 153
Another way............... 153
Bockings................... 153
Pastry.
Rich puff paste............ 154
A less rich paste.......... 154
Crust for venison pasty.... 154
Rice paste for sweets...... 154
rich paste for relishing things.................... 155
Potatoe paste.............. 155
Raised crusts for custards or fruits................. 155
Excellent short crusts, three ways of making them...................... 155
A very fine crust for orange cheese-cakes, or sweetmeats when wanted to be particularly nice...................... 156
Observations on pastry..... 156
Remark on using preserved fruit in pastry........... 156
Apple pie, 157. Hot apple pie....................... 157
Cherry pie................. 157
Mince pie, 157. Without meat...................... 157
Lemon mince pies........... 158
Egg mince pies............. 158
Currant and raspberry pie or tart................... 158
Light paste for tarts and cheesecakes............... 158
Icing for tarts............ 158
Pippin tarts............... 159
Prune tart................. 159
Orange tart................ 159
Cod in tart................ 159
Rhubarb tart............... 160
Raspberry tart with cream.. 160
Orange tart................ 160
Fried patties.............. 160
Page
Oyster patties, 160. The same, or small pie........ 161
Lobster patties............ 161
Podovies, or beef patties.. 161
Veal Patties............... 161
Turkey patties............. 161
Sweet patties.............. 162
Patties resembling mince- pies...................... 162
Apple puffs................ 162
Lemon puffs................ 162
Cheese puffs............... 162
Excellent light puffs...... 163
To prepare venison for pasty..................... 163
Venison pasty.............. 163 To make a pasty of beef
or mutton, to eat as well as venison................ 164
Potatoe pasty.............. 164
Cheap and excellent cus- tards..................... 165
Richer custards............ 165
Baked custard.............. 165
Lemon custard.............. 165
Almond custard............. 166
Cheesecakes, 166. A plain- er way, 166. Another way...................... 166
Lemon cheesecakes, 166
Another way.............. 167
Orange cheesecakes......... 167
Potatoe cheesecakes........ 167
Almond cheesecakes..., three ways................ 167
PART VII.
VEGETABLES.
Observations on dressing vegetables................ 168
To boil vegetables green... 168
How to boil vegetables green in hard water....... 169
To keep green peas......... 169
Method of keeping green peas, as practised in the emperor of Russia's kitchen................... 169
Boiled peas................ 169
To stew green peas......... 169
To stew old peas........... 170
To dress artichokes........ 170
Artichoke-bottoms.......... 170
Jerusalem artichokes....... 170
To stew cucumbers, 170. Another way.............. 170
To stew onions............. 171
Roast onions............... 171
To stew celery............. 171
To boil cauliflowers....... 171
Cauliflower in white sauce. 171
To dress cauliflower and Parmesan................. 171
To dress brocoli........... 172
Spinach.................... 172
To dress beans............. 172
Fricasseed Windsor beans... 172
French beans............... 172
To stew red cabbage, three ways................ 172
Mushrooms.................. 173
To stew mushrooms.......... 173
To stew sorrel for frican- dean and roast meat...... 174
French salad............... 174
Lobster salad.............. 174
To boil potatoes........... 174
To broil potatoes.......... 174
To roast potatoes.......... 175
To mash potatoes........... 175
Carrots.................... 175
To stew carrots............ 175
To mash parsnips........... 175
Fricassee of parsnips...... 175
To dress chardoons......... 176
Beet-roots................. 176
Frying-herbs, as dressed in Staffordshire......... 176
Sea-cale................... 177
Laver...................... 177
Page
To preserve several vege- tables to eat in winter : French beans, 177. Car- rots, parsnips, and beet- roots, 177. Store-onions, 177. Parsley, 177. Arti- choke-bottoms, truffles, morels, &c. 178. Cab- bages....................... 178
Pickles.
Rules to be observed with pickles.................... 178
Lemon pickle................ 178
Indian pickle............... 178
English bamboo.............. 180
Melon mangoes............... 180
Pickled lemons.............. 181
Olives...................... 181
Pickled onions.............. 181
To pickle cucumbers and onions sliced.............. 181
To pickle young cucum- bers....................... 182
To pickle walnuts, 182. Another way............... 182
An excellent way to pickle mushrooms, to preserve the flavour............... 183
To pickle red cabbage....... 183
Mushroom ketchup, 183
Another way................ 184
Walnut ketchup of the finest sort................ 184
Cockle ketchup.............. 184
To keep capers.............. 185
PART VIII.
SWEET DISHES, PRESERVES, SWEETMEATS, &c.
Sweet Dishes.
Buttered rice............... 185
Souffle of rice and apple... 185
Snowballs................... 185
Lent potatoes............... 185
A tansey.................... 186
Puits d'amour............... 186
Page
A very nice dish of maca- roni dressed sweet........ 186
Floating island, two ways, 186
Flummery, 187. Dutch, 187. Rice................ 187
Somersetshirefirmity........ 187
Curds and cream, 188.
Another way............... 188.
A curd star................. 188.
Blanc-mange, or bla- mange..................... 188.
An excellent trifle......... 189
Gooseberry or apple trifle.. 189
Chantilly cake, or cake trifle.................... 189
Gooseberry fool............. 190
Apple fool.................. 190
Orange fool................. 190
A cream, 190. An excel- lent one.................. 190
Burnt cream, two ways....... 191
Sack cream.................. 191
Brandy cream................ 191
Ratafia cream, two ways 191
Lemon cream, 192. Yel- low, without cream, 192. White................. 192
Imperial cream.............. 192
Almond cream................ 193
Snow cream.................. 193
Coffee cream, much ad- mired...................... 193
Chocolate cream............. 193
Codlin cream................ 193
Excellent orange cream 193
Raspberry cream, two ways....................... 194
Spinach cream............... 194
Pistachio cream............. 194
Clouted cream............... 195
A froth to set on cream, custard, or trifle, which looks and eats well....... 195
A carmel cover for sweet- meats..................... 195
Calf's feet jelly, two sorts 196
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Orange jelly................ 197
Hartshorn jelly............. 197
Cranberry jelly............. 197
Cranberry and rice jelly.... 197
Apple jelly to serve at table, two ways........... 198
To scald codlins............ 198
Stewed golden pippins....... 198
Black caps, two ways of making..................... 198
Stewed pears................ 199
Baked pears................. 199
Orange butter............... 199
Wine roll................... 199
To prepare fruit for child- ren; a far more whole- some way than in pies or puddings................ 200
To prepare ice for iceing 200
Ice waters.................. 200
Currant or raspberry wa- ter ice.................... 201
Ice creams.................. 201
Brown bread ice............. 201
Ratafia cream............... 201
Colourings to stain jellies, ices, or creams............ 201
London syllabub............. 201
Staffordshire syllabub...... 202
A very fine Somersetshire syllabub.................. 202
Devonshire junket........... 202
Everlasting, or sold, sylla- bubs....................... 202
Lemon honeycomb............. 202
Rice and sago milks......... 202
A pretty supper-dish........ 203
Savoury rice................ 203
Carrole of rice............. 203
Casserol, or rice edging.... 203
Salmagundy.................. 203
Macaroni, as usually serv- ed, 204. Two other ways....................... 204
Omlet....................... 204
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Butter, to serve as a little dish...................... 205
Ramakins.................... 205
Potted cheese............... 205
Roast cheese, to come up after dinner............... 206
Welch rabbit................ 206
Cheese toast................ 206
Anchovy toast, two ways 206
To poach eggs............... 206
Buttered eggs............... 207
Scotch eggs................. 207
A pepper pot................ 207
The Staffordshire dish of frying herbs and liver.... 207
To preserve suet a twelve- month...................... 208
Sweetmeats.
To green fruits for preser- ving or pickling........... 208
To clarify sugar for sweet- meats...................... 208
To candy any sort of fruit 209
To prepare barberries for tartlets................... 209
Barberries in bunches....... 209
A beautiful preserve of apricots................... 209
To preserve apricots in jelly...................... 210
To preserve green apri- cots....................... 210
Apricots or peaches in brandy.................... 210
To dry apricots in half..... 211
Apricot cheese.............. 211
Orange marmalade............ 211
Lemon marmalade............. 211
Transparent marmalade 211
To butter oranges hot....... 212
To fill preserved oranges; a corner dish.............. 212
Whole oranges carved........ 212
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Buttered orange juice, a cold dish.................. 213
Orange biscuits, or little cakes...................... 213
Orange-flower cakes......... 214
To preserve oranges or lemons in jelly............ 214
To keep oranges or lemons for puddings, &c. ..... 215
To preserve strawberries whole...................... 215
To preserve strawberries in wine.................... 215
To dry cherries with sugar...................... 215
To dry cherries without sugar...................... 215
To dry cherries the best way........................ 216
Cherries in brandy.......... 216
Cherry jam.................. 216
Currant jam, black, red, or white.................. 216
Currant jelly, red or black..................... 217
Apple marmalade............. 217
Apple jelly for preserving apricots, or for any sort of sweetmeats............. 217
Red apples in jelly......... 217
Dried apples................ 218
To preserve jarganel pears most beautifully.......... 218
Gooseberry jam for tarts 218
White gooseberry jam........ 218
Gooseberry hops............. 219
Raspberry jam............... 219
Another way................. 220
To preserve greengages 220
Damson cheese............... 220
Muscle-plum cheese.......... 221
Biscuits of fruit........... 221
Quince marmalade............ 221
To preserve whole or half quinces.................... 221
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Excellent sweemeats for tarts, when fruit is plen- tiful...................... 222
Magnum-bonum plums; excellent as a sweet- meat or in tarts, though very bad to eat raw........ 222
Lemon drops................. 223
Barberry drops..............223
Ginger drops; a good stomachic................. 223
Peppermint drops............ 224
Ratafia drops............... 224
Raspberry cakes............. 224
To preserve fruits for winter use.
Observations on sweet- meats...................... 224
To keep currants............ 225
Cherries and damsons the same way................... 226
To keep gooseberries; two ways................... 226
Another way................. 227
To keep damsons for win- ter pies; two ways, 227. another way................ 228
To preserve fruit for tarts or family desserts......... 228
To keep lemon-juice......... 228
China-orange juice; a very useful thing to mix with water, in fevers, when the fresh juice cannot be procured............... 229
Different ways of dressing cranberries............... 229
Orgeat, two ways............ 229
Lemonade, to be made a day or two before wanted.................... 230
Another way................. 230
Lemonade that has the appearance and flavour of jelly .................. 230
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Raspberry vinegar........... 230
PART IX.
CAKES, BREAD, &c.
Observations on making and baking cakes........... 231
Iceing for cakes............ 232
To ice a very large cake 232
A common cake, 233. A very good one.............. 233
An excellent cake........... 233
A very fine cake............ 233
Rout drop cakes............. 234
Flat cakes that will keep long in the house good.... 234
Little white cakes.......... 234
Little short cakes.......... 235
Plum-cake; two-ways, 235. Very good com- mon ones, 236. Little ones to keep long.......... 236
A good pound-cake........... 236
A cheap seed-cake........... 236
Another................... 237
Common-bread cake........... 237
Queen-cakes, two ways....... 237
Shrewsbury cakes............ 238
Tunbridge cakes............. 238
Rice-cake, two sorts........ 238
Water-cakes................. 238
Spunge-cakes, 239. An- other, without butter 239
Tea-cakes................... 239
Benton tea-cakes, 239. An- other sort, as biscuits, 239. Another............... 239
A biscuit-cake.............. 239
Macaroons...................
Wafers...................... 240
Crack-nuts.................. 240
Cracknels................... 240
A good plain bun that may be eaten with or without toasting and butter..................... 240
Richer buns................. 241
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Gingerbread, 241. Another sort, 241. A good plain sort, 241. A good sort without butter............. 241
Rusks....................... 241
To make yeast, two ways 242
To make bread............... 243
American flour.............. 243
The Rev. Mr. Hagget's economical bread........... 244
Rice-and-wheat bread........ 244
French bread................ 245
How to discover whether bread has been adulte- rated with whitening or chalk...................... 245
To detect bones, jalap, ashes, &c. in bread.... 245
Excellent rolls............. 245
French rolls................ 245
Brentford rolls............. 246
Potatoe rolls............... 246
Muffins..................... 246
Yorkshire cake.............. 246
Hard biscuits............... 246
Plain and very crisp bis- cuits...................... 247
PART X.
HOME-BREWERY, WINES, &c.
To brew very fine Welch ale........................ 247
Strong beer, or ale......... 248
Excellent table-beer........ 248
To refine beer, ale, wine, or cyder................... 249
Extract of malt for coughs 249
To preserve yeast........... 250
Remarks on English wines 250
A rich and pleasant wine 250
Raspberry wine.............. 251
Raspberry or currant wine, two ways of making .................... 251
Black-currant wine, very fine....................... 252
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Excellent ginger wine, two ways of making ........ 252
Excellent cowslip wine...... 253
Elder wine, 253. White, very much like Fronti- niac...................... 253
Clary wine.................. 254
Excellent raisin wine....... 254
Raisin wine with cyder, 254 Without cyder......... 255
Sack mead................... 255
Cowslip mead................ 255
Imperial.................... 256
Ratafia..................... 256
Raspberry brandy............ 256
An excellent method of making punch............... 257
Verder, or milk punch....... 258
Norfolk punch, two ways 258
White-currant shrub......... 258
PART XI.
DAIRY, AND POULTRY.
Dairy.
On the management of cows, &c. ............. 259
Observations respecting cheese .................... 260
Two ways to prepare ren- net to turn the milk....... 262
To make cheese.............. 262
To preserve cheese sound 263
To make sage cheese......... 264
Cream cheese, three ways of making.................. 264
Rush cream-cheese, two ways....................... 265
Observations respecting butter..................... 265
To make butter.............. 266
To preserve butter, 266 The best way of pre- serving butter for win- ter........................ 267
To manage cream for whey-butter................ 267
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To scald cream, as in the West of England............ 267
Buttermilk.................. 268
To keep milk and cream 268
Syrup of cream.............. 268
Gallino curds and whey, as in Italy................ 268
To choose butter at mar- ket........................ 269
Poultry-Yard.
Management of fowls......... 269
To make hens lay............ 271
To fatten fowlsor chickens in four or five days....... 271
To choose eggs at market, and preserve them ......... 272
Feathers.................... 272
Ducks....................... 273
Geese....................... 273
Turkies..................... 274
Pea fowl.................... 274
Guinea hens................. 275
Pigeons..................... 275
Rabbits..................... 276
PART XII.
COOKERY FOR THE SICK, AND FOR THE POOR.
Sick-cookery.
General remarks............. 276
A clear broth that will keep long................... 277
A quick-made broth.......... 277
A very supporting broth against any kind of weakness.................... 277
A very nourishing veal- broth....................... 277
Broth of beef, mutton, and veal.................... 277
Calves'-feet broth, two ways of making.............. 278
Chicken broth............... 278
Eel broth................... 278
Tench broth................. 278
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Beef tea.................... 279
Dr.Rateliff's restorative pork jelly.................. 279
Shank jelly................. 279
Arrow-root jelly............ 279
Tapioca jelly............... 279
Gloucester jelly............ 280
Panada, made in five mi- nutes, 280. Another, 280. Another................ 280
Chicken panada.............. 280
Sippets, when the stomach will not receive meat 280
Different ways of prepar- ing eggs.................... 281
Three great restorative, 281. Another, a most pleasant draught............ 281
Candle, three ways of making...................... 282
Cold caudle................. 282
A flour candle.............. 282
Rice caudle, 282. Another way of making............... 282
To mull wine, 283. An- other way................... 283
To make coffee.............. 283
Coffee-milk................. 283
Chocolate................... 284
Patent cocoa................ 284
Saloop...................... 284
Milk porridge, 284. French 284
Ground-rice milk............ 284
Sage, 285. Sage milk........ 285
Asses' milk................. 285
Artificial asses' milk...... 285
Two other ways of making 285
Water gruel, two ways of making...................... 285
Barley gruel................ 286
A very agreeable drink...... 286
A refreshing drink in a fever, 286. Another drink, 286. Another......... 286
A most pleasant drink....... 287
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Soft and fine draught for those who are weak and have a cough................ 287
Toast and water............. 287
Barley-water, two ways of making................... 287
Lemon-water, a delightful drink....................... 287
Apple-water................. 288
Raspberry-vinegar water..... 288
Whey........................ 288
White-wine whey............. 288
Vinegar and lemon wheys 288
Buttermilk, with bread or without..................... 288
Dr. Boerhaave's sweet buttermilk.................. 288
Orgeat...................... 289
Orangeade, or lemonade 289
Egg-wine.................... 289
Cookery for the Poor.
General remarks and hints 290
A baked soup................ 290
An excellent soup for the weakly...................... 292
Sago........................ 292
Candle for the sick and the lying-in................ 292
PART XIII.
VARIOUS RECEIPTS, AND DI- RECTIONS TO SERVANTS.
Various Receipts
To make soft pomatum, two ways.................... 293
Hard pomatum................ 294
Pomade divine............... 294
Pot-pourri.................. 294
A quicker sort of sweetpot 295
To make wash-balls.......... 295
Paste for chopped hands, and which will preserve them smooth by con- stant use................... 296
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For chopped lips............ 296
Hungary water............... 296
Honey water................. 296
Lavender water.............. 296
An excellent water to pre- vent hair from falling off, and to thicken it...... 296
Black paper for drawing patterns.................... 297 Black ink, two ways of
making...................... 297
To cement broken china 297
An excellent stucco, which will adhere to wood- work........................ 297
Mason's washes for stuc- co : blue and yellow ....... 298
Roman cement or mortar for outside plaistering, or brick-work............... 298
To take stains, iron- moulds, and mildew out of linen................ 299
To make flannels keep their colour, and not shrink...................... 300
To preserve furs and wool- en from moths............... 300
To dye the linings of fur- niture, &c.300. Buff, or salmon-colour, accord- ing to the depth of the hue; Pink, 300. Blue 300
To dye gloves, to look like York tan or Limerick, according to the deep- ness of the dye............. 301
To dye white gloves a beautiful purple............ 301
A liquor to wash old deeds, &c. on paper or parchment, when the writing is obliterated, or, when sunk, to make it legible.................. 301
To prevent the rotin sheep 301
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To prevent green hay from firing................. 301
To preserve a granary from insects and wea- sels........................ 302
To destroy crickets......... 302
Directions to Servants.
To clean calico furniture when taken down for the summer.................. 302
To clean plate.............. 302
To clean looking-glasses 302
To preserve gilding, and clean it.................... 303
To clean paint.............. 303
To clean paper hangings 303
To give a gloss to fine oak wainscot.................... 304
To give a fine colour to mahogany.................... 304
To take ink out of maho- gany........................ 304
Floor-cloths, 304. To clean them........................ 305
To dust carpets and floors 305
To clean carpets............ 305
To give to boards a beau- tiful appearance............ 305
To extract oil from boards or stone.................... 306
To clean stone stairs and halls....................... 306
To blacken the fronts of stone chinney-pieces 306
To take stains out of marble, 306. Iron stains 306
Two ways of preserving irons from rust............. 307
To take rust out of steel 307
To clean the back of the grate; the inner hearth; and of cast-iron stoves, the fronts, 307. Another way to clean cast-iron, and black hearths........... 307
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To take the black off the bright bars of polished stoves in a few minutes 307
To clean tin covers, and patent pewter porter- pots........................ 308
To prevent the creaking of a door................... 308
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A strong paste for paper 308
Fine blacking for shoes..... 308
Bills of Fare, Family Dinners, &c.
Bills of fare............... 309
Family dinners.............. 311
INDEX....................... 325
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>
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS
FOR THE USE OF
THE MISTRESS OF A FAMILY.
IN every rank, those deserve the greatest praise, who best acquit themselves of the duties which their station requires. Indeed this line of conduct is not a matter of choice but of necessity, if we would maintain the dignity of our character as rational beings.
In the variety of female acquirements, though domestic occupations stand not so high in esteem as they formerly did, yet when neglected, they produce much human misery. There was a time when ladies knew nothing
beyond their own family concerns; but in the present day there are many who know nothing
about them. Each of these extremes should be avoided: but is there no way to unite in the female character, cultivation of talents and habits of usefulness ? Happily there are still great numbers in every situation, whose example proves that this is possible. Instances may be found of ladies in the higher -walks of life, who condescend to examine the accounts of their house-steward; and, by overlooking and wisely directing the expenditure of that part of their husband's income, which falls under their own inspection, avoid the inconveniences of embarrassed circumstances. How much more necessary, then, is domestic knowledge in
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those whose limited fortunes press on their attention considerations of the strictest economy ! There ought to be a material difference in the degree of care which a per son of a large and independent estate bestows on money concerns, and that of a person in confined circumstances: yet both may very commendably employ some portion of their time and thoughts on this subject. The custom of the times tends in some measure to abolish the distinctions of rank; and the education given to young people, is nearly the same in all: but though the leisure of the higher may be well devoted to elegant accomplishments, the pursuits of those in a middle line, if less ornamental, would better secure their own happiness and that of others connected with them. We sometimes bring up children in a manner calculated rather to fit them for the station we wish, than that which it is likely they will actually possess; and it is in all cases worth the while of parents to consider whether the expectation or hope of raising their offspring above their own situation be well-founded.
The cultivation of the understanding and disposition, however, is not here alluded to; for a judicious improvement of both, united to firm and early taught religious principles, would enable the happy possessor of these advantages to act well on all occasions: nor would young ladies find domestic knowledge a burthen, or inconsistent with higher attainments, if the rudiments of it were inculcated at a tender age, when activity is so pleasing. If employment be tiresome to a healthy child, the fault must be traced to habits which, from many causes, are not at present favourable to the future conduct of women. It frequently happens, that before impressions
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of duty are made on the mind, ornamental education commences; and it ever after takes the lead: thus, what should be only the embellishment, becomes the main business, of life. There is no opportunity of attaining a knowledge of family management at school; and during vacations, all subjects that might interfere with amusement are avoided.
When a girl, whose family moves in the higher ranks of life, returns to reside at her father's house after completing her education, her introduction to the gay world, and a continued course of pleasures, persuade her at once that she was born to be the ornament of fashionable circles, rather than to
stoop (as she would conceive it) to undertake the arrangement of a family, though by that means she might in various ways augment the satisfaction, and comfort of her parents. On the other hand, persons of an inferior sphere, and especially in the lower order of middling life, are almost always anxious to give their children such advantages of education as themselves did not possess. Whether their indulgence be productive of the happiness so kindly aimed at, must be judged by the effects, which are not very favourable, if what has been taught has not produced humility in herself, and increased gratitude and respect to the authors of her being. Were a young woman brought to relish home society, and the calm delights of agreeable occupation, before she entered into the delusive scenes of pleasure, presented by the theatre and other dissipations, it is-probable she would soon make a comparison much In favour of the former, especially if restraint did not give to the latter additional relish.
If we carry on our observations to married life, we shall
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find a love of employment to be the source of unnumbered pleasures. To attend to the nursing, and at
least early instruction of children, and rear a healthy progeny in the ways of piety and usefulness:-to preside over the family and regulate the income allotted to its maintenance: to make home the sweet refuge of a husband fatigued by intercourse with a jarring world: to be his enlightened companion and the chosen friend of his heart: these, these, are woman's duties! and delightful ones they are, if haply she be married to a man whose soul can duly estimate her worth, and who will bring his share to the common stock of felicity. Of such a woman, one may truly say, "Happy the man who can call her his wife, Blessed are the children who call her mother."
When we thus observe her, exercising her activity and best abilities in appropriate cares and increasing excellence, are we not ready to say, she is the agent for good of that benevolent Being, who placed her on earth to fulfil such sacred obligations, not to waste the talents committed to her charge.
When it is thus evident that the high intellectual attainments may find exercise in the multifarious occupations of the daughter, the wife, the mother, and the mistress of the house, can any one urge that the female mind is contracted by domestic employ? It is however a great comfort that the duties of life are within the reach of humbler abilities, and that
she whose chief-aim is to fulfil them, will rarely ever fail to acquit herself well. United with, and perhaps crowning all the virtues of the female character, is that well-directed ductility of mind, which occasionally bends its attention to the smaller objects of life, knowing them to be often scarcely less essential than the greater.
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Hence the direction of a
table is no inconsiderable branch of a lady's concern:, as it involves judgment in expenditure; respectability of appearance; and the comfort of her husband and those who partake their hospitality.
The mode of covering the table differs in taste. It is not the multiplicity of things, but the choice, the dressing, and the neat pleasing look of the whole, which gives respectability to her who presides. Too much, or too little dinners are extremes not uncommon: the latter is in appearance and reality the effort of poverty or penuriousness to he
genteel; and the former, if constantly given, may endanger the circumstances of those who are not affluent.
Perhaps there are few incidents in which the respectability of a man is more immediately felt, than the style of dinner to which he accidentally may bring home a visitor. Every one is to live as he can afford, and the meal of the tradesman ought not to emulate the entertainments of the higher classes, but if two or three dishes are well served, with the usual sauces, the table-linen clean, the small sideboard neatly laid, and all that is necessary be at hand, the expectation of the husband and friend will be gratified, because no irregularity of domestic arrangement will disturb the social intercourse. The same observation holds good on a larger scale. In
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all situations of life, the entertainment should be no less suited to the station, than to the fortune of the
entertainer, and to the number and rank of those invited.
The manner of carving is not only a very necessary branch of information, to enable a lady to do the honours of her table, but makes a considerable difference in the consumption of a family: and though in large parties she is so much assisted as to render this knowledge apparently of less consequence, yet she must at times feel the deficiency; and should not fail to acquaint herself with an attainment, the advantage of which is evident every day.
Indeed, as fashions are so fleeting, it is more than probable, that before the end of this century, great attention to guests may be again the mode, as it was in the commencement of the last. Some people haggle meat so much, as not to be able to help half-a-dozen persons decently from a large tongue, or a sirloin of beef; and the dish goes away with the appearance of having been gnawed by dogs. If the daughters of the family were to take the head of the table under the direction of their mother, they would fulfill its duties with grace, in the same easy manner as an early practice in other domestic affairs gradually fits them for their own future houses. Habit alone can make good carvers; but some principal directions are hereafter given, with a reference to the annexed plates.
The mistress of a family should always remember that the welfare and good management of the house depend on the eye of the superior; and consequently that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste may be avoided; and this attention is of more importance
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now that the price of every necessary of life is increased to an enormous degree.
If a lady has never been accustomed, while single, to think of family management, let her not upon that account fear that she cannot attain it: she may consult others who are more experienced, and acquaint herself with the necessary quantities of the several articles of family expenditure; in proportion to the number it consists of, the proper prices to pay, &c. &c.
A minute account of the annual income, and the times of payment, should be taken in writing; likewise an estimate of the supposed amount of each article of expence; and those who are early accustomed to calculations on domestic articles, will acquire so accurate a knowledge of what their establishment requires, as will give them the happy medium between prodigality and parsimony, without acquiring the character of meanness.
Perhaps few branches of female education are so useful, as great readiness at figures. Accounts should be regularly kept, and not the smallest article omitted to be entered; and if balanced every week and month, &c. the income and outgoings will be ascertained with facility, and their proportions to each other be duly observed. Some people fix on stated sums to be appropriated to each different article, and keep the money in separate purses; as house, clothes, pocket, education of children, &c. Whichever way accounts be entered, a certain mode should be adopted, and strictly adhered to. Many women are unfortunately ignorant of the state of their husband's income; and others are only made acquainted with it, when some speculative project, or profitable transaction, leads them to make a false estimate
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of what can be afforded; and it too often happens that both parties, far from consulting each other, squander money in ways that they would even wish to forget: whereas marriage should be a state of mutual and perfect confidence, and similarity of pursuits, which would secure that happiness it was intended to bestow.
There are so many valuable women who excel as wives, that it is a fair inference there would be few extravagant ones, were they consulted by their husbands on subjects that concern the mutual interest of both parties. Within the knowledge of the writer of these pages many families have been reduced to poverty by the want of openness in the man on the subject of his affairs; and though on these occasions the women were blamed, it has afterwards appeared, that they never were allowed a voice of enquiry, or suffered to reason upon what sometimes appeared to them imprudent.
Many families have owed their prosperity full as much to the propriety of female management, as to the knowledge and activity of the father.
The lady of a general officer observed to her man-cook, that her last weekly bill was higher than usual. Some excuse was offered;--to which she replied:--"Such is the sum I have allotted to house-keeping: should it be exceeded one week, the next must repay it. The general will have no public day this week." The fault was never repeated.
March's "Family Book-keeper," is a very useful work, and saves much trouble; the various articles of expense being printed, with a column for every day in the year, so that at one view the amount of expenditure on each, and the total sum, may be known.
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Ready-money should be paid for all such things as come not into weekly bills, and even for them a check is necessary. The best places for purchasing should be attended to. In some articles a discount of five per cent is allowed for ready money in London and other large cities, and those who thus pay are usually best served. Under the idea of buying cheap, many go to new shops, but it is safest to deal with people of established credit who do not dispose of goods by underselling.
To make tradesmen wait for their money injures them greatly, besides that a higher price must be paid, and in long bills, articles never bought are often charged. Perhaps the irregularity and failure of payment, may have much evil influence on the price of various articles, and may contribute to the destruction of many families from the highest to the lowest.
Thus regularly conducted, the exact state of money affairs will be known with ease; for it is delay of payment that occasions confusion. A common-place book should be always at hand, in which to enter such hints of useful knowledge, and other observations as are given by sensible experienced people. Want of attention to what is advised, or supposing things too minute to be worth hearing, are the causes why so much ignorance prevails on necessary subjects, among those who are, not backward in frivolous ones.
It is very necessary for a woman to be informed of the prices and goodness of all articles in common use, and of the best times, as well as places, for purchasing them. She should also be acquainted with the
comparative prices of provisions, in order that she may be able to substitute
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those that are most reasonable, when they will answer as well for others of the same kind, but which are more costly. A false notion of economy leads many to purchase as bargains, what is not wanted, and sometimes never is used. Were this error avoided, more money would remain for other purposes. It is not unusual among lower dealers to put off a larger quantity of goods, by assurances that they are advancing in price; and many who supply fancy articles are so successful in persuasion, that purchasers not unfrequently go far beyond their original intention, even to their own future disquiet. Some things are better for keeping, and, being in constant consumption, should be laid in accordingly; such a paper, soap, and candles. Of these more hereafter.
To give unvarying rules cannot be attempted; for people ought to form their conduct on their circumstances, but it is presumed that a judicious arrangement according to them, will be found equally advantageous to all. The minutiae of management must be regulated by every one's fortune and rank; some ladies, not deficient in either, charge themselves with giving out, once in a month, to a superintending servant, such quantities of household articles, as by observation and calculation they know to be sufficient, reserving for their own key the large stock of things usually laid in for very large families in the country. Should there be several more visitors than usual, they can easily account for increase of consumption, and
vice versa. Such a degree of judgment will be respectable even in the eye of domestics, if they are not interested in the ignorance of their employers; and if they are, their services will not compensate for want of honesty.
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When young ladies marry, they frequently continue their own maid in the capacity of house-keeper; who as they may be more attached to their interest than strangers, become very valuable servants. To such, the economical observations in this work will be as useful as the cookery; and it is recommendable in them to be strictly observant of both, which in the course of a year or two, will make them familiar in the practice.
It is much to be feared, that for the waste of many of the good things that God has given for our use, not abuse, the mistress and servants of great houses will hereafter be called to a strict account.
Some part of every person's fortune should be devoted to charity; by which "a pious woman will build up her house before God, while she that is foolish
(i. e. lends nothing to the Lord,) pulls it down with her hands." No one can complain of the want of gifts to the poor in this land:--but there is a mode of relief which would add greatly to their comfort, and which being prepared from superfluity, and such materials as are often thrown away, the expense would not be felt. In the latter part of this work some hints for preparing the above are given.
By good hours, especially early breakfast, a family is more regular, and much time is saved. If orders be given soon in the morning, there will be more time to execute them; and servants, by doing their work with ease, will be more equal to it, and fewer will be necessary.
It is worthy of notice that the general expense will be reduced, and much time saved, if every thing be
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kept in its proper place, applied to its proper use, and mended, when the nature of the accident will allow, as soon as broken.
If the economy of time was duly considered, the useful affairs transacted before amusements were allowed, and a regular plan of employment was daily laid down, a great deal might be done without hurry or fatigue; and it would be a most pleasant retrospect at the end of the year, were it possible to enumerate all the valuable acquirements made, and the good actions performed by an active woman.
If the subject of servants be thought ill-timed in a book upon family arrangement, it must be by those who do not recollect that the regularity, and good management of the heads will be insufficient, if not seconded by those who are to execute orders. It behoves every person to be extremely careful whom he takes into his service; to be very minute in investigating the character he receives, and equally cautious and scrupulously just in giving one to others. Were this attended to, many had people would be incapacitated for doing mischief, by abusing the trust reposed in them. It may be fairly asserted that the robbery or waste, which is but a milder epithet for the unfaithfulness of a servant, will be laid to the charge of that master or mistress, who knowing, or having well-founded suspicions of such faults, is prevailed upon by false pity, or entreaty, to slide him into another place. There are however some who are unfortunately capricious, and often refuse to give a character because they are displeased that a servant leaves their service: but this is unpardonable, and an absolute robbery, servants having no inheritance, and depending
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on their fair name for employment. To refuse countenance to the evil, and to encourage the good servant, are actions due to society at large; and such as are honest, frugal, and attentive to their duties, should be liberally rewarded, which would encourage merit, and inspire servants with zeal to acquit themselves.
It may be proper to observe that a retributive justice usually marks persons in that station sooner or later even in this world. The extravagant and idle in servitude, are ill prepared for the industry and sobriety on which their own future welfare so essentially depends. Their faults, and the attendant punishment come home when they have children of their own; and sometimes much sooner. They will see their own folly and wickedness perpetuated in their offspring, whom they must not expect to be better than the example and instruction given by themselves.
It was the observation of a sensible and experienced woman, that she could always read the fate of her servants who married; those who had been faithful and industrious in her service, continued their good habits in their own families, and became respectable members of the community:--those who were the contrary, never were successful, and not unfrequently were reduced to the parish.
A proper quantity of household articles should be always ready, and more bought in before the others be consumed, to prevent inconvenience, especially in the country.
A bill of parcels and receipt should be required, even if the money be paid at the time of purchase; and, to
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avoid mistakes, let the goods be compared with these when brought home.
Though it is very disagreeable to suspect any one's honesty, and perhaps mistakes have been unintentional; yet it is prudent to weigh meat, sugars, &c. when brought in, and compare with the charge. The butcher should be ordered to send the weight with the meat, and the cook to file these checks, to be examined when the weekly bill shall be delivered.
Much trouble and irregularity are saved when there is company, if servants are required to prepare the table and sideboard in similar order daily.
All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness; sugars of different qualities kept broken, currants washed, picked, and perfectly dry, spices pounded, and kept in very small bottles closely corked; not more than will be used in four or five weeks should be pounded at a time. Much less is necessary than when boiled whole in gravies, &c.
Where noonings or suppers are served, (and in every house some preparation is necessary for accidental visitors) care should be taken to have such things in readiness as are proper for either, a list of several will be sub-joined, a change of which may be agreeable, and if duly managed will be attended with little expense and much convenience.
A ticket should be exchanged by the cook
for every loaf of bread, which when returned will shew the number to be paid for; as tallies may be altered, unless one is kept by each party.
Those who are served with brewer's beer; or any other articles not paid for weekly or on delivery should keep
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a book for entering the dates; which will not only serve to prevent overcharges, but will shew the whole year's consumption at one view.
An inventory of furniture, linen, and China should be kept, and the things examined by it twice a year, or oftener, if there be a change of servants; into each of whose care the articles used by him or her, should be entrusted, with a list, as is done with plate. Tickets of parchment with the family name, numbered, and specifying what bed it belongs to, should be sewed on each feather-bed, bolster, pillow, and blanket. Knives, forks, and house-cloths, are often deficient: these accidents might be obviated, if an article at the head of every list required the former should be produced whole or broken, and the marked part of the linen, though all the others should be worn out. The inducement to care of glass is in some measure removed, by the increased price given for old flint glass.--Those who wish for trifle dishes, butter-stands, &c. at a lower charge than cut glass, may buy them made in moulds, of which there is great variety that look extremely well, if not placed near the more beautiful articles.
The price of starch depends upon that of flour; the best will keep good in a dry warm room for some years; therefore when bread is cheap it may be bought to advantage, and covered close.
SUGARS being an article of considerable expense in all families, the purchase demands particular attention. The cheapest does not go so far as that more refined; and there is difference even in the degree of sweetness. The white should be chosen that is close, heavy, and shining. The best sort of brown has a bright gravelly look,
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and it is often to be bought pure as imported. East India sugars are finer for the price, but not so strong, consequently unfit for wines and sweetmeats, but do well for common purposes, if good of their kind. To prepare white sugar, pounded, rolling it with a bottle, and sifting, wastes less than a mortar.
Candles made in cool weather are best; and when their price, and that of soap, which rise and fall together, is likely to be higher, it will be prudent to lay in the stock of both. This information the chandler can always give; they are better for keeping eight or ten months, and will not injure for two years, if properly placed in the cool; and there are few articles that better deserve care in buying, and allowing a due quantity of, according to the size of the family.
Paper, by keeping, improves in quality; and if bought by half or whole reams from large dealers, will be much cheaper than purchased by the quire. The surprising increase of the price of this article may be accounted for by the additional duties, and a larger consumption, besides the monopoly of rags; of the latter it is said there is some scarcity, which might be obviated if an order were given to a servant in every family to keep a bag to receive all the waste bits from cuttings out, &c.
Many well-meaning servants are ignorant of the best means of managing, and thereby waste as much as would maintain a small family, besides causing the mistress of the house much chagrin by their irregularity; and many families, from a want of method, have the appearance of chance rather than of regular system. To avoid this, the following hints may be useful as well as economical:--
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Every article should be kept in that place best suited to it, as much waste may thereby be avoided, viz.
Vegetables will keep best on a stone floor if the air be excluded.--Meat in a cold dry place.--Sugar and sweetmeats require a dry place; so does salt.-Candles cold, but not damp.--Dried meats, hams, &c. the same.--All sorts of seeds for puddings, saloop, rice, &c. should be close covered to preserve from insects; but that will not prevent it, if long kept.
Bread is now so heavy an article of expense that all waste should be guarded against; and having it cut in the room will tend much to prevent it. Since the scarcity in 1795 and 1800, that custom has been much adopted. It should not be cut until a day old. Earthen pans and covers keep it best.
Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to prevent a musty taste.
Large pears should be tied up by the stalk.
Basil, savoury, or knotted marjoram, or London thyme, to be used when herbs are ordered; but with discretion, as they are very pungent.
The best means to preserve blankets from moths is to fold and lay them under the feather-beds that are in use; and they should be shaken occasionally. When soiled, they should be washed, not scoured.
Soda, by softening the water, saves a great deal of soap. It should be melted in a large jug of water, some of which pour into the tubs and boiler; and when the lather becomes weak, add more. The new improvement on soft soap is, if properly used, a saving of near half in quantity; and though something dearer than the hard reduces the price of washing considerably.
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Many good laundresses advise soaping linen in warm water the night previous to washing, as facilitating the operation with less friction.
Soap should be cut with a wire or twine, in pieces that will make a long square when first brought in, and kept out of the air two or three weeks; for if it dry quick, it will crack, and when wet, break. Put it on a shelf, leaving a space between, and let it grow hard gradually. Thus, it will save a full third in the consumption.
Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice should be pared first to preserve the peel dry; some should be halved, and when squeezed, the pulp cut out, and the outsides dried for grating. If for boiling in any liquid, the first way is best. When these fruits are cheap, a proper quantity should be bought and prepared as above directed, especially by those who live in the country, where they cannot always be had; and they are perpetually wanted in cookery.
When whites of eggs are used for jelly, or other purposes, contrive to have pudding, custard, &c. to employ the yolks also. Should you not want them for several hours, beat them up with a little water, and put them in a cool place, or they will be hardened and useless. It was a mistake of old, to think that the whites made cakes and puddings heavy; on the contrary, if beaten long and separately, they contribute greatly to give lightness, are an advantage to paste, and make a pretty dish beaten with fruit, to set in cream, &c.
If copper utensils be used in the kitchen, the cook should be charged to be very careful not to let the tin be rubbed off; and to have them fresh done when the least defect appears, and never to put by any soup, gravy,
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&c. in them, or any metal utensil; stone and earthen vessels should be provided for those purposes, as likewise plenty of common dishes, that the table set may be used to put by cold meat.
Tin vessels, if kept damp, soon rust, which causes holes. Fenders, and tin linings of flower-pots, &c. should be painted every year or two.
Vegetables soon sour, and corrode metals and glazed red ware, by which a strong poison is produced. Some years ago, the death of several gentlemen was occasioned at Salt-hill, by the cook sending a ragout to table, which she had kept from the preceding day in a copper vessel badly tinned.
Vinegar, by its acidity does the same, the glazing being of lead or arsenic.
To cool liquors in hot weather, dip a cloth in cold water, and wrap it round the bottle two or three times, then place it in the sun; renew the process once or twice.
The best way of scalding fruits, or boiling vinegar, is in a stone jar on a hot iron hearth; or by putting the vessel into a sauce-pan of water, called a water-bath.
If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &c. be suffered to boil over, the strength is lost.
The cook should be encouraged to be careful of coals and cinders: for the latter there is a new contrivance to sift, without dispersing the dust of the ashes, by means of a covered tin bucket.
Small coal wetted makes the strongest fire for the back, but must remain untouched until it cake. Cinders, lightly wet, give a great degree of heat, and are better than coal for furnaces, ironing-stoves, and ovens.
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The cook should be charged to take care of jelly-bags, tapes for the collared things, &c. which if not perfectly scalded, and kept dry, give an unpleasant flavour when next used.
Cold water thrown on cast iron, when hot, will cause it to crack.
In the following and indeed all other receipts, though the quantities may be as accurately directed as possible, yet much must be left to the discretion of the person who uses them. The different tastes of people require more or less of the flavour of spices, salt, garlic, butter, &c. which can never be ordered by general rules; and if the cook has not a good taste, and attention to that of her employers, not all the ingredients which nature and art can furnish, will give exquisite flavour to her dishes. The proper articles should be at hand, and she must proportion them until the true
zest be obtained, and a variety of flavour be given to the different dishes served at the same time.
Those who require maigre dishes will find abundance in this little work; and where they are not strictly so, by suet or bacon being directed in stuffings, the cook must use butter instead; and where meat gravies, (or stock as they are called) are ordered, those made of fish must be adopted.
> DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING.
THE carving-knife for a lady should be light, and of a middling size and fine edge. Strength is less required than address, in the manner of using it; and to facilitate
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this, the cook should give orders to the butcher to divide
the joints of the bones of all carcase-joints of mutton, lamb, and veal, (such as neck, breast and loin;) which may then be easily cut into thin slices attached to the adjoining bones. If the whole of the meat belonging to each bone should be too thick, a small slice may he taken off between every two bones.
The more fleshy joints (as fillet of veal, leg or saddle of mutton, and beef) are to be helped in thin slices, neatly cut and smooth; observing to let the knife pass down to the bone in the mutton and beef joints.
The dish should not be too far off the carver; as it gives an awkward appearance, and makes the task more difficult. Attention is to be paid to help every one to a part of such articles as are considered the best.
In helping fish, take care not to break the flakes; which in cod and very fresh salmon are large, and contribute much to the beauty of its appearance. A fish-knife, not being sharp, divides it best on this account. Help a part of the roe, milt, or liver, to each person. The heads of carp, parts of those of cod and salmon, sounds of cod, and fins of turbot, are likewise esteemed niceties, and are to be attended to accordingly.
In cutting up any wild-fowl, duck, goose, or turkey, for a large party, if you cut the slices down from pinion to pinion, without making wings, there will be more prime pieces.
A Cod's Head.--Fish in general requires very little carving, the fleshy parts being those principally esteemed. A cod's head and shoulders, when in season, and properly boiled, is a very genteel and handsome dish. When cut, it should be done with a fish-trowel, and the parts
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about the back-bone on the shoulders are the most firm and the best. Take off a piece quite down to the bone, in the direction
a, b, c, d, putting in the spoon at
a, c, and with each slice of fish give a piece of the sound, which lies underneath the back-bone and lines it, the meat of which is thin, and a little darker-coloured than the body of the fish itself: this may be got by passing a knife or spoon underneath, in the direction d,f. About the head are many delicate parts, and a great deal of the jelly kind. The jelly part lies about the jaw, bones, and the firm parts within the head. Some are fond of the palate, and others the tongue, which likewise may be got by putting a spoon into the mouth.
Edge-bone of Beef.--Cut off a slice an inch thick all the length from
a to
b, in the figure opposite the last page, and then help. The soft fat which resembles marrow, lies at the back of the bone, below
c; the firm fat must be cut in horizontal slices at the edge of the meat
d. It is proper to ask which is preferred, as tastes differ, The skewer that keeps the meat properly together when boiling is here shewn at
a. This should be drawn out before it is served up; or, if it is necessary to leave the skewer in, put a silver one.
Sirloin of Beef |
The inside done as follows eats excellently: Have ready some shalot-vinegar boiling hot: mince the meat large, and a good deal of the fat; sprinkle it with salt, and
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Plate I.
[Illustration: An Illustration of a Cod fish with various parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a part of Beef with different parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a Calf's head with different parts labelled.]
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pour the shalot-vinegar and the gravy on it. Help with a spoon, as quickly as possible, on hot plates.
Round or Buttock of Beef is cut in the same way as fillet of veal, in the next article. It should be kept even all over. When helping the fat, observe not to hack it, but cut it smooth. A deep slice should be cut off the beef before you begin to help, as directed above'for the Edge-bone.
Fillet of Veal.--In an ox this part is round of beef. Ask whether the brown outside be liked, otherwise help the next slice. The bone is taken out, and the meat tied close, before dressing; which makes the fillet very solid. It should be cut thin, and very smooth. A stuffing is put into the flap, which completely covers it; you must cut deep into this, and help a thin slice, as likewise of fat. From carelessness in not covering the latter with paper, it is sometimes dried up, to the great disappointment of the carver.
Breast of Veal.--One part (which is called the brisket) is thickest, and has gristles; put your knife about four inches from the edge of this, and cut through it, which will separate the ribs from the brisket. Ask which is chosen, and help accordingly.
Calf's Head has a great deal of meat upon it, if properly managed. Cut slices from
a to
b, in the figure opposite
page 22, letting the knife go close to the bone. In the fleshy part, at the neck end
c, there lies the throat sweetbread, which you should help a slice of from c to
d with the other part. Many like the eye; which you must cut out with the point of your knife, and divide in two. If the jaw-bone be taken off, there will be found some fine lean. Under the head is the palate, which is
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reckoned a nicety; the lady of the house should be acquainted with all things that are thought so, that she may distribute them among her guests.
Shoulder of Mutton.--This is a very good joint, and by many preferred to the leg; it being very full of gravy, if properly roasted, and produces many nice bits. The figure represents it as laid in the dish with its back uppermost. When it is first cut, it should be in the hollow part of it, in the direction of
a, b, and the knife should be passed deep to the bone. The prime part of the fat lies on the outer edge, and is to be cut out in thin slices in the direction
e. If many are at table, and the hollow part cut in the line
a, b, is eaten, some very good and delicate slices may be cut out on each side the ridge of the blade-bone, in the direction
c, d. The line between these two dotted lines, is that in the direction of which the edge or ridge of the blade-bone lies, and cannot be cut across.
Leg of Mutton.--A leg of wether mutton (which is the best flavoured) may be known by a round lump of fat the edge of the broadest part, as at
a. The best part is in the midway, at
b, between the knuckle and further end. Begin to help there, by cutting thin deep slices to
c. If the outside is not fat enough, help some from the side of the broad end in slices from
e to
f. This part is most juicy; but many prefer the knuckle, which in fine mutton will be very tender though dry. There are very fine slices on the back of the leg: turn it up, and cut the broad end; not in the direction you did the other side, but longways. To cut out the cramp-bone, take hold of the shank with your left-hand, and cut down to
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[Illustration: An illustration of a shoulder of mutton with various parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a lef of mutton with various parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a quarter of lamb with various parts labelled.]
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[Illustration: An illustration of a haunch of venison with various parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a Ham with various parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a Pig with various parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a Goose with various parts labelled.]
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the thigh-bone at
d; then pass the knife under the cramp-bone in the direction,
d, g.
A fore Quarter of Lamb.--Separate the shoulder from the scoven (which is the breast and ribs), by passing the knife under in the direction of
a, b, c, d, in the figure opposite the last page; keeping it towards you horizontally, to prevent cutting the meat too much off the bones. If grass-lamb, the shoulder being large, put it into another dish. Squeeze the juice of half a Seville orange (or lemon) on the other part, and sprinkle a little salt and pepper. Then separate the gristly part from the ribs in the line
e, c; and help either from that, or from the ribs, as may be chosen.
Haunch of Venison.--Cut down to the bone in the line
a, b, c, in the figure opposite the next page, to let out the gravy: then turn the broad end of the haunch toward you, put in the knife at
b, and cut as deep as you can to the end of the haunch
d; then help in thin slices, observing to give some fat to each person. There is more fat (which is a favourite part) on the left side of c and
d than on the other; and those who help must take care to proportion it, as likewise the gravy, according to the number of the company.
Haunch of Mutton is the leg and part of the loin, cut so as to resemble haunch of venison, and is to be helped at table in the same manner.
Saddle of Mutton.--Cut long thin slices from the tail to the end, beginning close to the backbone. If a large joint, the slice may be divided. Cut some fat from the sides.
Ham may be cut three ways; the common method is, to begin in the middle, by long slices from
a to
b, from
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the centre through the thick fat. This brings to the prime at first; which is likewise accomplished by cutting a small round hole on the top of the ham as at
c, and with a sharp knife enlarging that by cutting successive thin circles: this preserves the gravy, and keeps the meat moist.
The last and most saving way is, to begin at the hock end (which many are most fond of), and proceed onwards.
Ham that is used for pies, &c. should be cut from the under side, first taking off a thick slice.
Sucking Pig.--The cook usually divides the body before it is sent to table, and garnishes the dish with the jaws and ears.
The first thing is, to separate a shoulder from the carcase on one side, and then the leg according to the direction given by the dotted line
a, b, c. The ribs are then to be divided into about two helpings; and an ear or jaw presented with them, and plenty of sauce. The joints may either be divided into two each, or pieces maybe cut from them. The ribs are reckoned the finest part; but some people prefer the neck end, between the shoulders.
Goose.--Cut off the apron in the circular line
a, b, c, in the figure opposite the last page; and pour into the body a glass of port wine, and a large tea-spoonful of mustard, first mixed at the sideboard. Turn the neck end of the goose towards you, and cut the whole breast in long slices from one wing to another; but only remove them as you help each person, unless the company is so large as to require the legs likewise. This way gives more prime bits than by making wings. Take off the leg, by
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Plate IV.
[Illustration: An illustration of a Hare with various parts illustrated.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a roast fowl with various parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a boil'd fowl with various parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a wing from a side angle.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a leg from a side angle.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a neck bone from a side angle.]
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putting the fork into the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body, and having passed the knife at
d, turn the leg back, and if a young bird, it will easily separate. To take off the wing, put your fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body; then put in the knife at
d, and divide the joint, taking it down in the direction
d, e. Nothing but practice will enable people to hit the joint exactly at the first trial. When the leg and wing of one side are done, go on to the other; but it is not often necessary to cut up the whole goose, unless the company be very large. There are two side bones by the wing, which may be cut off; as likewise the back and tower side-bones: but the best pieces are the breast, and the thighs after being divided from the drum-sticks.
Hare.--The best way of cutting it up is, to put the point of the knife under the shoulder at
a, in the figure opposite the next page, and so cut all the way down to the rump, on one side of the back-bone, in the line
a, b. Do the same on the other side, so that the whole hare will be divided into three parts. Cut the back into four, which with the legs is the part most esteemed. The shoulder must be cut off in a circular line, as
c, d, a: lay the pieces neatly on the dish as you cut them; and then help the company, giving some pudding and gravy to every person. This way can only be practised when the hare is young: if old, don't divide it down, which will require a strong arm: but put the knife between the leg and bark, and give it a little turn inwards at the joint; which you must endeavour to hit, and not to break by force. When both legs are taken off, there is a fine collop on each side the back, then divide the back into as many pieces as you please, and take off the
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shoulders, which are by many preferred, and are called the sportsman's pieces. When every one is helped, cut off the head; put your knife between the upper and lower jaw, and divide them, which will enable you to lay the upper flat on your plate; then put the point of the knife into the centre, and cut the head into two. The ears and brains may be helped then to those who like them.
Carve
Rabbits as directed the latter way for hare; cutting the back into two pieces, which with the legs are the prime.
A Fowl.--A boiled fowl's legs are bent inwards, and tucked into the belly; but before it is served, the skewers are to be removed. Lay the fowl on your plate; and place the joints, as out off, on the dish. Take the wing off in the direction of
a to
b, in the annexed engraving, only dividing the joint with your knife; and then with your fork lift up the pinion, and draw the wing towards the legs, and the muscles will separate in a more complete form than if cut. Slip the knife between the leg and body, and cut to the bone; then with the fork turn the leg back, and the joint will give way if the bird is not old. When the four quarters are thus removed, take off the merrythought from
a, and the neck-bones; these last by putting in the knife at
c, and pressing it under the long broad part of the bone in the line
c, b: then lift it up, and break it off from the part that sticks to the breast. The next thing is, to divide the breast from the carcase, by cutting through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite down to the tail. Then lay the back upwards, put your knife into the bone half-way from the neck to the tump, and on raising the lower end it will separate readily. Turn the rump from you, and very
View page [illustration]
Plate V.
[Illustration: An illustration of a pheasant with various parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a partridge with various parts labelled.]
[Illustration: An illustration of two pigeons with various parts labelled.]
View page [xxix]
neatly take off the two sidesmen, and the whole will be done. As each part is taken off, it should be turned neatly on the dish: and care should be taken that what is left goes properly from table. The breast and wings are looked upon as the best parts; but the legs are most juicy, in young fowls. After all, more advantage will be gained by observing those who carve well, and a little practice, than by any written directions whatever.
A Pheasant.--The bird in the annexed engraving is as trussed for the spit, with its head under one of its wings. When the skewers are taken out, and the bird served, the following is the way to carve it:
Fix your fork in the centre of the breast; slice it down in the lines
a, b; take off the leg on one side in the dotted line
b, d; then cut off the wing on the same side, in the line
c, d. Separate the leg and wing on the other side, and then cut off the slices of breast you divided before. Be careful how you take off the wings; for if you should cut too near the neck as at
g, you will hit on the neck-bone, from which the wing must be separated. Cut off the merrythought in the line
f, g, by passing the knife under it towards the neck. Cut the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings, and merrythought, are the most esteemed; but the leg has a higher flavour.
Partridge.--The partridge is here represented as just taken from the spit; but before it is served up, the skewers must be withdrawn. It is cut up in the same manner as a fowl. The wings must be taken off in the lines
a, b, and the merrythought in the
c, d. The prime parts of the partridge are the wings, breast, and merrythought. But the bird being small, the two latter are not often divided. The wing is considered as the best, and the tip of it reckoned the most delicate morsel of the whole.
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Pigeons.--Cut them in half, either from top to bottom or across. The lower part is generally thought the best; but the fairest way is to cut from the neck to
a, figure 7, rather than fromc to
b, by
a, which is the most fashionable. The figure represents the back of the pigeon; and the direction of the knife is in the line
c, b, by
a, if done the last way.
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> DOMESTIC COOKERY.
> PART I.
> FISH.
> To choose Fish.
TURBOT, if good, should be thick, and the belly of a yellowish white; if of a bluish cast, or thin, they are bad. They are in season the greatest part of the summer.
Salmon.--If new, the flesh is of a fine red (the gills particularly), the scales bright, and the whole fish stiff. When just killed, there is a whiteness between the flakes, which gives great firmness; by keeping, this melts down, and the fish is more rich. The Thames salmon bears the highest price; that caught in the Severn is next in goodness, and is even preferred by some. Small heads, and thick in the neck, are best.
Cod.--The gills should be very red: the fish should be very thick at the neck, the flesh white and firm, and the eyes fresh. When flabby they are not good. They are in season from the beginning of December till the end of April.
Skate.--If good they are very white and thick. If too fresh they eat tough, but must not be kept above two days.
Herrings.--If good, their gills are of a fine red and the eyes bright; as is likewise the whole fish, which must be stiff and firm.
Soles.--If good they are thick, and the belly is of a cream-colour; if this is of a bluish cast and flabby they are not fresh. They are in the market almost the whole year, but are in the highest perfection about midsummer.
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Whitings.--The firmness of the body and fins is to be looked to, as in herrings; their high season is during the first three months of the year, but they may be had a great part of it.
Mackerel.--Choose as whitings. Their season is May, June, and July. They are so tender a fish that they carry and keep worse than any other.
Pike.--For freshness observe the above marks. The best are taken in rivers: they are a very dry fish, and are much indebted to stuffing and sauce.
Carp live some time out of water, and may therefore get wasted; it is best to kill them as soon as caught, to prevent this. The same signs of freshness attend them as other fish.
Tench.--They are a fine-flavoured fresh-water fish, and should be killed and dressed as soon as caught.--When they are to be bought, examine whether the gills are red and hard to open, the eyes bright, and the body stiff. The tench has a slimy matter about it, the clearness and brightness of which shew freshness. The season is July, August, and September.
Perch.--Take the general rules given to distinguish the freshness of other fish. They are not so delicate as carp and tench.
Smelts, if good, have a fine silvery hue, are very firm, and have a refreshing smell like cucumbers newly cut.--They are caught in the Thames and some other large rivers.
Mullets.--The sea are preferred to the river mullets, and the red to the grey. They should be very firm. Their season is August.
Gudgeons.--They are chosen by the same rules as other fish. They are taken in running streams; come in about midsummer, and are to be had for five or six months.
Eels.--There is a greater difference in the goodness of eels than of any other fish. The true silver-eel (so called from the bright colour of the belly) is caught in the Thames. The Dutch eels sold at Billingsgate are very bad; those taken in great floods are generally
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good, but in ponds they have usually a strong rank flavour. Except the middle of summer, they are always in season.
Lobsters.--If they have not been long taken, the claws will have a strong motion when you put your finger on the eyes and press them. The heaviest are the best, and it is preferable to boil them at home. When you buy them ready-boiled, try whether their tails are stiff, and pull up with a spring; otherwise that part will be flabby. The cock lobster is known by the narrow back part of his tail, and the two uppermost fins within it are stiff and hard; but those of the hen are soft, and the tail broader. The male, though generally smaller, has the highest flavour, the flesh is firmer, and the colour when boiled is a deeper red.
Crabs.--The heaviest are best, and those of a middling size are sweetest. If light they are watery: when in perfection the joints of the legs are stiff, and the body has a very agreeable smell. The eyes look dead and loose when stale.
Prawns and Shrimps.--When fresh they have a sweet flavour, are firm and stiff, and the colour is bright,--Shrimps are of the prawn kind, and may be judged by the same rules.
Oysters.--There are several kinds; the Pyfleet, Colchester, and Milford, are much the best. The native Milton are fine, being white and fat; but others may be made to possess both these qualities in some degree by proper feeding. When alive and strong the shell closes on the knife. They should be eaten as soon as opened, the flavour becoming poor otherwise. The rock oyster is largest, but usually has a coarse flavour if eaten raw.
Flounders.--They should be thick, firm, and have their eyes bright. They very soon become flabby and bad. They are both sea and river fish. The Thames produces the best. They are in season from January to March, and from July to September.
Sprats.--Choose by the same rules as Herrings.
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> Observations on Dressing Fish.
If the fishmonger does not clean it, fish is seldom very nicely done; but those in great towns wash it beyond what is necessary for cleaning, and by perpetual watering diminish the flavour. When quite clean, if to be boiled, some salt and a little vinegar should bo put into the water to give firmness: but Cod, Whiting, and Haddock, are far better if a little salted, and kept a day; and if not very hot weather, they will be good two days.
Those who know how to purchase fish, may, by taking more at a time than they want for one day, often get it cheap; and such kinds as will pot or pickle, or keep by being sprinkled with salt and hung up, or by being fried will serve for stewing the next day, may then be bought with advantage.
Fresh-water fish has often a muddy smell and taste: to take off which, soak it in strong salt and water after it is nicely cleaned; or if of a size to bear it, scald it in the same; then dry, and dress it.
The fish must be put into the water while cold, and set to do very gently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done.
Crimp fish should be put into boiling water; and when it boils up, pour a little cold water in, to check extreme heat, and simmer it a few minutes.
The fish-plate on which it is done may be drawn up to see if it be ready: it will leave the bone when it is. It should then be immediately taken out of the water, or it will be woolly. The fish-plate should be set crossways over the kettle, to keep hot for serving; and a clean cloth cover the fish to prevent it losing its colour.
Small fish nicely fried, covered with egg and crumbs, make a dish far more elegant than if served plain. Great attention should be paid to garnishing fish: use plenty of horse-radish, parsley, and lemon.
When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is more attended to than almost any other dish. The liver
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and roe should be placed on the dish, so that the lady may see them, and help a part to every one.
If fish is to be fried or broiled, it must be wrapt in a nice soft cloth after it is well cleaned and washed.--When perfectly dry, wet, with an egg if for frying, and sprinkle the finest crumbs of bread over it; if done a second time with the egg and bread, the fish will look much better; then having a thick-bottomed frying-pan on the fire, with a large quantity of lard or dripping boiling-hot, plunge the fish into it, and let it fry middingly quick, till the colour is a fine brown yellow, and it is judged ready. If it is done enough before it has obtained a proper degree of colour, the cook should draw the pan to the side of the fire; carefully take it up, and either place it on a large sieve turned upwards, and to be kept for that purpose only, or on the under side of a dish to drain; and if wanted very nice, a sheet of cap paper must be put to receive the fish, which should look a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs appear distinct; the fish being free from all grease. The same dripping, with a little fresh, will serve a second time. Butter gives a bad colour: oil fries of the finest colour for those who will allow the expense.
Garnish with a fringe of curled raw parsley, or parsley fried, which must be thus done: When washed and picked, throw it again into clean water; when the lard or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it immediately from the water, and instantly it will be green and crisp, and must be taken up with a slice: this may be done after the fish is fried.
If fish is to be broiled, it must be seasoned, floured, and put on a gridiron that is very clean; which, when hot, should be rubbed with a bit of suet to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled on a very clear fire, that it may not taste smoky; and not too near, that it may not be scorched.
> TURBOT.
To keep Turbot. |
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and be in as high perfection as at first, if lightly rubbed over with salt, and carefully hung in a cold place.
To boil Turbot. |
Serve it garnished with a complete fringe of curled parsley, lemon, and horse-radish.
The sauce must be the finest lobster, and anchovy butter, and plain butter, served plentifully in separate tureens.
> SALMON.
To boil Salmon. |
To broil Salmon. |
To pot Salmon. |
In this manner you may do any firm fish.
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To dry Salmon. |
Dried salmon is eaten broiled in paper, and only just warmed through; egg-sauce and mashed potatoes with it; or it may be boiled, especially the bit next the head.
An excellent dish of dried Salmon. |
To pickle Salmon. |
After scaling and cleaning, split the salmon, and divide into such pieces as you chuse, lay it in the kettle to fill the bottom, and as much water as will cover it : to three quarts put a pint of vinegar, a handful of salt, twelve bay leaves, six blades of mace, and a quarter of an ounce of black pepper. When the salmon is boiled enough, drain it and put it on a clean cloth, then put more salmon into the kettle, and pour the liquor upon it, and so on till all is done. After this, if the pickle be not smartly flavoured with the vinegar and salt, add more, and boil it quick three quarters of an hour. When
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all is cold, pack the fish in something deep, and let there be enough of pickle to plentifully cover. Preserve it from the air. The liquor must be drained from the fish, and occasionally boiled and skimmed.
Salmon collared. |
> COD.
Some people boil the cod whole; but a large head and shoulders contain all the fish that is proper to help, the thinner parts being overdone and tasteless, before the thick are ready. But the whole fish may be purchased at times more reasonably; and the lower half, if sprinkled and hung up, will be in high perfection one or two days. Or it may be made salter, and served with egg-sauce, potatoes, and parsnips.
Cod when small is usually very cheap. If boiled quite fresh it is watery; but eats excellently if salted and hung up for a day to give it firmness, then stuffed, and broiled, or boiled.
Cod's Head and Shoulders |
Tie it up, and put it on the fire in cold water which will completely cover it: throw a handful of salt into it. Great care must be taken to serve it without the smallest speck of black or scum. Garnish with a large quantity of double parsley, lemon, horse-radish, and the milt, roe, and liver, and fried smelts if approved.
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If with smelts, be careful that no water hangs about the fish; or the beauty of the smelts will be taken off, as well as their flavour.
Serve with plenty of oyster or shrimp-sauce, and anchovy and butter.
Crimp Cod. |
Cod Sounds boiled. |
Cod Sounds to look like small Chickens. |
To broil Cod Sounds. |
Cod Sounds ragout. |
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Currie of Cod |
To dress salt Cod. |
> STURGEON.
To dress fresh Sturgeon. |
Sauce; butter, anchovy, and soy.
To roast Sturgeon. |
Put a piece of butter, rolled in flour, into a stew-pan with four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, two onions, some pepper and salt, half a pint of water, and a glass of vinegar. Stir it over the fire till hot; then let it become lukewarm, and steep the fish in it an hour or two, Butter a paper, well, tie it round, and roast it without letting the spit run through. Serve with sorrel and anchovy-sauce.
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An excellent Imitation of pickled Sturgeon. |
Boil the liquor half an hour; and when both are cold, put the turkey into it. This will keep some months, and eats more delicately than sturgeon; vinegar, oil, and sugar, are usually eaten with it. If more vinegar or salt should be wanted, add when cold. Send fennel over it to table.
Thornback and Skate |
Crimp Skate. |
Maids |
Boiled Carp. |
Stewed Carp. |
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of butter rolled in flour, shake it, and let the gravy boil a few minutes. Serve with sippets of fried bread, the roe fried, and a good deal of horse-radish and lemon.
Baked Carp. |
Perch and Tench. |
To fry Trout and Grayline. |
Perch and
Tench may be done the same way.
Trout à-la-Genevoise. |
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a quick fire. When the fish is done, take the bread out, bruise it, and then thicken the sauce; add flour and a little butter, and let it boil up. See that your sauce is of a proper thickness. Lay your fish on the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Serve it with sliced lemon and fried bread.
MACKEREL. |
To broil them, split, and sprinkle with herbs, pepper, and salt; or stuff with the same, crumbs, and chopped fennel.
Potted: clean, season, and bake them in a pan with spice, bay-leaves, and some butter; when cold, lay them in a potting-pot, and cover with butter.
Pickled: boil them, then boil some of the liquor, a few peppers, bay leaves, and some vinegar; when cold, pour it over them.
Pickled Mackerel, called Caveach. |
Red Mullet. |
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To dress Pipers. |
To bake Pike. |
> HADDOCK.
Boil or broil with stuffing as under, having salted them a day.To dry Haddock. |
Whitings, if large, are excellent this way; and it will prove an accommodation in the country where there is no regular supply of fish.
Stuffing for Pike, Haddock, and small Cod. |
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pepper. Oysters will be an improvement with or without anchovies; add crumbs, and an egg to bind.
SOLES. |
If fried, dip in egg, and cover them with fine crumbs of bread; set on a frying-pan that is just large enough, and put into it a large quantity of fresh lard or dripping, boil it, and immediately slip the fish into it; do them of a fine brown. See to fry, page 12.
Soles that have been fried eat good cold with oil, vinegar, salt, and mustard.
Stewed Soles. |
Soles another way. |
Soles in the Portuguese way. |
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a slow oven. Then place the rolls in the dish for serving, and cover it to keep them hot till the gravy baked is skimmed: if not enough, a little fresh, flavoured as above, must be prepared and added to it.
Portuguese stuffing for Soles baked. |
The heads of the fish are to be left on one side of the split part, and kept on the outer side of the roll; and when served the heads are to be turned towards each other in the dish.
Garnish with fried or dried parsley.
An excellent way of dressing a large Plaice, especially if there be a roe. |
To fry Smelts. |
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> EELS.
Spitchcock Eels. |
Serve with anchovy and butter for sauce.
Fried Eels. |
Boiled Eels. |
Serve chopped parsley and butter for sauce.
Eel Broth, very nourishing for the sick. |
Collared Eel. |
To stew Lamprey as at Worcester. |
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beef-gravy, port, and an equal quantity of Madeira, or sherry.
It must be covered close; stew till tender, then take out the lamprey and keep hot, while you boil up the liquor with two or three anchovies chopped, and some flour and butter: strain the gravy through a sieve, and add lemon-juice and some made mustard. Serve with sippets of bread and horse-radish.
Eels, done the same way, are a good deal like the lamprey. When there is spawn, it must be fried and put round.
Note. Cyder will do in common instead of white wine.
> FLOUNDERS.
Let them be rubbed with salt inside and out, and lie two hours to give them some firmness. Dip them into egg; cover with crumbs, and fry them.
Water Souchy. |
> HERRINGSand SPRATS.
To smoke Herrings. |
Fried Herrings. |
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Broiled Herrings. |
Potted Herrings |
To dress Red Herrings. |
Baked Herrings or Sprats. |
Sprats |
> LOBSTERSand SHRIMPS.
To pot Lobsters. |
Another way to pot Lobsters, as at Wood's Hotel.
Take out the meat as whole as you can; split the tail
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and remove the gut; if the inside be not watery, add that. Season with mace, nutmeg, white pepper, salt, and a clove or two, in the finest powder. Lay a little fine butter at the bottom of a pan, and the lobster smooth over it, with bay-leaves between; cover it with butter, and bake gently. When done, pour the whole on the bottom of a sieve; and with a fork lay the pieces into potting-pots, some of each sort, with the seasoning about it. When cold, pour clarified butter over, but not hot. It will be good next day; or highly seasoned, and thick covered with butter, will keep some lime.
Potted lobster may be used cold, or as a fricassee, with a cream-sauce: it then looks very nicely and eats excellently, especially if there is spawn.
Mackerel, Herrings, and
Trout, are good potted as above.
Stewed Lobster, a very high Relish. |
Buttered Lobsters. |
To roast Lobsters. |
Currie of Lobsters, or Prawns. |
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an ounce of butter: simmer an hour; squeeze half a lemon in, and add salt.
Prawns and Cray-fish in jelly, a beautiful dish. |
To butter Prawns or Shrimps. |
To pot Shrimps. |
> CRABS.
Hot Crab. |
Dry toast should be served to eat it upon.
Dressed Crab cold. |
> OYSTERS.
To feed Oysters. |
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and they will fatten. The water should be pretty salt.
To stew Oysters. |
Boiled Oysters |
To scallop Oysters. |
Fried Oysters, to garnish boiled Fish. |
Oyster Sauce. |
Oyster Loaves. |
Oyster Patties. |
To pickle Oysters. Wash four dozen of the largest oysters you can get in their own liquor, wipe them dry, strain the liquor off, adding to it a desert-spoonful of pepper, two blades of mace, a table-spoonful of salt, if the liquor be not very salt, three of white wine and four of vinegar.--
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Simmer the oysters a few minutes in the liquor, then put them in small jars, and boil the pickle up, skim it, and when cold, pour over the oysters: cover close.
Another way to pickle Oysters.
Open the number you intend to pickle, put them into a saucepan with their own liquor for ten minutes, simmer them very gently; then put them into a jar, one by one, that none of the grit may stick to them, and cover them when cold with the pickle thus made.--Boil the liquor with a bit of mace, lemon-peel, and black peppers, and to every hundred put two spoonfuls of the best undistilled vinegar.
They should be kept in small jars, and tied close with bladder, for the air will spoil them.
Note.--Directions for making Fish Pies will be found under the head PIES.
> PART II.
> MEATS.
> To choose Meats.
Venison.--If the fat be clear, bright, and thick, and the cleft part smooth and close, it is young; but if the cleft is wide and tough, it is old. To judge of its sweetness, run a very sharp narrow knife into the shoulder or haunch, and you will know by the scent. Few people like it when it has much of the
haut gout.
Beef.--If the flesh of ox-beef is young, it will have a fine smooth open grain, be of a good red, and feel tender. The fat should look white rather than yellow; for when that is of a deep colour, the meat is seldom good: beef fed by oil-cakes is in general so, and the flesh is flabby. The grain of cow-beef is closer, and the fat whiter, than that of ox-beef; but the lean is not of so bright a red. The grain of bull-beef is closer still, the fat hard and skinny, the lean of a deep red, and a
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stronger scent. Ox-beef is the reverse. Ox-beef is the richest and largest; but in small families, and to some tastes, heifer-beef is better if finely fed. In old meat there is a streak of horn in the ribs of beef: the harder this is, the older; and the flesh is not finely flavoured.
Veal.--The flesh of a bull-calf is firmest, but not so white. The fillet of the cow-calf is generally preferred for the udder. The whitest is not the most juicy, having been made so by frequent bleeding and having had whiting to lick. Choose the meat of which the kidney is well covered with white thick fat. If the bloody vein in the shoulder looks blue, or of a bright red, it is newly killed; but any other colour shews it stale. The other parts should be dry and white; if clammy or spotled, the meat is stale and bad. The kidney turns first in the loin, and the suet will not then be firm.
Mutton.--Choose this by the fineness of its grain, good colour, and firm white fat. It is not the better for being young; if of a good breed and well fed, it is better for age: but this only holds with wether-mutton: the flesh of the ewe is paler, and the texture finer. Ram-mutton is very strong-flavoured, the flesh is of a deep red, and the fat is spongy.
Lamb.--Observe the neck of a fore-quarter: if the vein is bluish, it is fresh; if it has a green or yellow cast, it is stale. In the hindquarter, if there is a faint smell under the kidney, and the knuckle is limp, the meat is stale. If the eyes are sunk, the head is not fresh. Grass-lamb comes into season in April or May, and continues till August. House-lamb may be had in great towns almost all the year, but is in highest perfection in December and January.
Pork.--Pinch the lean, and if young it will break. If the rind is tough, thick, and cannot easily be impressed by the finger, it is old. A thin rind is a merit in all pork. When fresh, the flesh will be smooth and cool; if clammy, it is tainted. What is called measly pork is very unwholesome; and may be known by the fat being full of kernels, which in good pork is never
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the case. Pork fed at still-houses does not answer for curing any way, the fat being spongy. Dairy-fed pork is the best.
Bacon.--If the rind is thin, the fat firm and of a red tinge, the lean tender, of a good colour, and adhering to the bone, you may conclude it good, and not old. If there are yellow streaks in it, it is going, if not already rusty.
Hams.--Stick a sharp knife under the bone: if it comes out with a pleasant smell, the ham is good; but if the knife is daubed and has a bad scent, do not buy it. Hams short in the hock are best, and long-legged pigs are not to be chosen for any preparation of pork.
Brawn.--The horny part of young brawn will feel moderately tender, and the flavour will be better; the rind of old will be hard.
> Observations, on purchasing, keeping, and dressing Meat.
In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind goes farthest; it cuts out with most advantage, and affords most nourishment. Round of beef, fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, are joints that bear a higher price; but as they have more solid meat, they deserve the preference. It is worth notice, however, that those joints which are inferior may be dressed as palatably: and being cheaper, they ought to be bought in turn; for, when they are weighed with the prime pieces, it makes the price of these come lower.
In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the bone should be taken out, as it is apt to taint; as also the kernels of beef. Rumps and edgebones of beef are often bruised by the blows the drovers give the beasts, and the part that has been struck always taints: therefore do not purchase these joints if bruised.
The shank-bones of mutton should be saved; and, after soaking and brushing, may be added to give richness to gravies or soups. They are also particularly nourishing for sick persons.
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When sirloins of beef, or loins of veal or mutton, come in, part of the suet may be cut off for puddings, or to clarify.
Dripping will baste every thing as well as butter, except fowls and game; and for kitchen pies, nothing else should be used.
The fat off a neck or loin of mutton makes a far lighter pudding than suet.
Meat and vegetables that the frost has touched, should be soaked in cold water two or three hours before used, or more if they are much iced. Putting them into hot water, or to the fire, till thawed, makes it impossible for any heat to dress them properly afterwards.
In warm weather, meat should be examined well when it comes in; and if flies have touched it, the part must be cut off, and then well washed. In the height of summer, it is a very safe way to let meat that is to be salted lie an hour in very cold water, nibbing well any part likely to have been fly-blown; then wipe it quite dry, and have salt ready, and rub it thoroughly in every part, throwing a handful over it besides. Turn it every day, and rub the pickle in, which will make it ready for the table in three or four days. If to be very much corned, wrap it in a well floured cloth, after rubbing it with salt. This last method will corn fresh beef fit for the table the day it comes on, but it must be be put into the pot when the water boils.
If the weather permit, meat eats much better for hanging two or three days before it is salted.
The water in which meat has been boiled makes an excellent soup for the poor, by adding to it vegetables, oat-meal, or peas.
Roast-beef bones, or shank-bones of ham, make for peas-soup; and should be boiled with the peas the day before eaten, that the fat may be taken off.
In some families great loss is sustained by the spoiling of meat. The best way to keep what is to be eaten unsalted is, as before directed, to examine it well, wipe it every day, and put some pieces of charcoal over it. If meat is brought from a distance in warm weather, the butcher
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should be ordered to cover it close, and bring it early in the morning; but even then, if it is kept on the road while he serves the customers, who live nearest to him, it will very likely be fly-blown. This happens often in the country.
Wash all meat before you dress it: if for boiling, the colour will be better for soaking; but if for roasting, dry it.
Boiling in a well-floured cloth will make meat white.
Particular care must be taken that the pot is well skimmed the
moment it boils, otherwise the foulness will be dispersed over the meat. The more soups or broth are skimmed, the better and cleaner they will be.
The boiler and utensils should be kept delicately clean.
Put the meat into cold water, and flour it well first. Meat boiled quick will be hard; but care must be taken that in boiling slow it does not stop, or the meat will be underdone.
If the steam is kept in, the water will not lesson much; therefore when you wish it to boil away, take off the cover of the soup-pot.
Vegetables should not be dressed with the meat, except carrots or parsnips with boiled beef.
As to the length of time required for roasting and boiling, the size of the joint must direct; as also the strength of the fire, the nearness of the meat to it, and in boiling, the regular though slow progress it makes; for if the cook, when told to hinder the copper from boiling quick, lets it slop from boiling up at all, the usual time will not be sufficient, and the meat will be under-done.
Weigh the meat; and allow for all solid joints, a quarter of an hour for every pound, and some minutes (from ten to twenty) over, according as the family like it done.
A ham of twenty pounds will take four hours and a half, and others in proportion.
A tongue, if dry, takes four hours slow boiling, after soaking: a tongue out of pickle, from two hours and a half to three hours, or more if very large; it must be judged by feeling whether it is very tender.
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A leg of pork, or of lamb, takes the full allowance of twenty minutes, above a quarter of an hour to a pound.
In roasting, beef of ten pounds will take above two hours and a half; twenty pounds will take three hours and three quarters.
A neck of mutton will take an hour and a half, if kept at a proper distance. A chine of pork, two hours.
The meat should be put at a good distance from the fire, and brought gradually nearer when the inner part becomes hot, which will prevent its being scorched while yet raw. Meat should be much basted; and when nearly done, floured to make it look frothed.
Veal and mutton should have a little paper put over the fat to preserve it. If not fat enough to allow for basting, a little good dripping answers as well as butter.
The cook should be careful not to run the spit through the best parts; and should observe that it be well cleaned before and at the time of serving, or a black stain appears on the meat. In many joints the spit will pass into the bones, and run along them for some distance, so as not to injure the prime of the meat: and the cook should have leaden skewers to balance it with; for want of which, ignorant servants are often troubled at the sime of serving.
In roasting meat it is a very good way to put a little salt and water into the dripping pan, and baste for a little while with this, before using its own fat or dripping. When dry, dust it with flour, and baste as usual.
Salting meat before it is put to roast draws out the gravy: it should only be sprinkled when almost done.
Time, distance, basting often, and a clear fire of a proper size for what is required, are the first articles of a good cook's attention in roasting.
Old meats do not require so much dressing as young; not that they are sooner done, but they can be eaten with the gravy more in.
A piece of writing-paper should be twisted round the bone at the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of lamb, mutton, or venison, when roasted, before they are served.
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[Illustration: An illustration of a Venison with its body divided in different parts. Each part is numbered.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a Beef with its body divided in different parts. Each part is numbered.]
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> BEEF.
1. Sirloin.
2. Rump.
3. Edge Bone.
4. Buttock.
5. Mouse Buttock.
6. Veiny Piece.
7. Thick Flank.
8. Thin Flank
9. Leg.
10. Fore Rib; 5 Ribs.
> Hind Quarter.
11. Middle Rib; 4 Ribs.
12. Chuck; 3 Ribs.
13. Shoulder or Leg of Mutton Piece.
14. Brisket.
15. Clod.
16. Neck or Sticking-Piece.
17. Shin.
18. Cheek.
> Fore Quarter.
View page [NONE OF THE ABOVE]
1. Loin, best End.
2. Loin, Chump End.
3. Fillet.
4. Hind Knuckle.
5. Fore Knuckle.
6. Neck, best End.
7. Neck, Scrag End.
8. Blade Bone.
9. Breast, best End.
10. Breast, Brisket End.
> VEAL.
> MUTTON
1. Leg.
2. Loin, best End.
3. Loin, Chump End.
4. Neck, best End.
5. Neck, Scrag End.
6. Shoulder.
7. Breast.
A Chine is two Loins.
A Saddle is two Necks.
View page [illustration]
[Illustration: An illustration of a Veal with its body divided into different parts. Each part is numbered.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a Pork with its body divided into different parts. Each part is numbered.]
[Illustration: An illustration of a Mutton with its body divided into different parts. Each part is numbered.]
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When you wish fried things to look as well as possible, do them
twice over with egg and crumbs. Bread that is not stale enough to grate quite fine, will not look well. The fat you fry in must always be boiling hot the moment the meat, fish, &c. are put in, and kept so till finished; a small quantity never fries well.
To keep meat hot.--It is best to lake it up when done, though the company may not be come; set the dish over a pan of boiling water, put a deep cover over it so as not to touch the meat, and then throw a cloth over that. This way will not dry up the gravy.
> VENISON.
To keep Venison. |
To dress Venison. |
Spread a sheet of white paper with butter, and put it over the fat, first sprinkling it with a little salt; then lay a coarse paste on strong paper, and cover the haunch; tie it with fine packthread, and set it at a distance from the fire, which must be a good one. Baste it often; ten minutes before serving take off the paste, draw the meat nearer the fire, and baste it with butter and a good deal of flour to make it froth up well.
Gravy for it should be put into a boat, and not into the dish (unless there is none in the venison), and made thus: Cut off the fat from two or three pounds of a loin of old mutton, and set it in steaks on a gridiron for a few minutes just to brown one side; put them into a sauce-pan with a quart of water, cover quite close for an hour, and simmer
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it gently; then uncover it, and stew till the gravy is reduced to a pint. Season with only salt.
Currant-jelly sauce must be served in a boat.
Formerly pap-sauce was eaten with venison; which, as some still like it, it may be necessary to direct. Grate white bread, and boil it with port wine, water, and a stick of cinnamon; and when quite smooth take out the cinnamon and add sugar. Claret may be used for it.
Make the jelly-sauce thus. Beat some currant-jelly and a spoonful or two of port wine, and set it over the fire till melted. Where jelly runs short put more wine, and a few lumps of sugar, to the jelly, and melt as above. Sent with French beans.
Haunch, Neck, and Shoulder, of Venison. |
To Stew a Shoulder of Venison. |
This is the best way to dress this joint, unless it is very fat, and then it should be roasted. The bone should be stewed with it.
Breast of Venison. |
Hashed Venison |
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then put to the hash, and it will eat as well as the fat of the venison.
For Venison Pasty, look under the head PASTRY; as likewise an excellent imitation
> BEEF.
To keep Beef. |
As the butchers seldom attend to this matter, the cook should take out the kernels; and then rub the salt well into such beef as is for boiling, and slightly sprinkle that which is for roasting.
The flesh of cattle that are killed when not perfectly cleared of food, soon spoils. They should last twenty-four hours in winter, and double that time in summer, before being killed.
To salt Beef or Pork for eating immediately. |
Great attention is requisite in salting meat; and in the country, where large quantities are cured, this is of particular importance. Beef and pork should be well sprinkled, and a few hours afterwards hung to drain, before it is rubbed with the salt; which method, by cleansing the meat from the blood, serves to keep it from tasting strong. It should be turned every day; and if wanted soon, should be rubbed as often. A salting-tub or lead may be used, and a cover to lit close. Those who use a good deal of
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salt meat will find it answer well to boil up the pickle, skim it, and when cold, pour it over meat that has been sprinkled and drained. Salt is so much increased in price, from the heavy duties, as to require great care in using it; and the brine ought not to be thrown away, as is the practice of some, after once using.
To salt Beef red; which is extremely good to eat fresh from the Pickle, or to hang to dry. |
It will be excellent in eight days. In sixteen drain it from the pickle; and let it be smoked at the oven-mouth when heated with wood, or send it to the baker's. A few days will smoke it.
A little of the coarsest sugar may be added to the salt.
It eats well, boiled tender with greens or carrots. If to be grated as Dutch, then cut a
lean bit, boil it till extremely tender, and while hot put it under a press. When cold fold it in a sheet of paper, and it will keep in a dry place two or three months, ready for serving on bread and butter.
The Dutch way to salt Beef. |
Beef a-la-mode. |
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let each bit be near an inch thick: dip them into vinegar, and then into a seasoning ready prepared of salt, black pepper, allspice, and a clove, all in fine powder, with parsley, chives, thyme, savoury, and knotted marjoram, shred as small as possible, and well mixed. With a sharp knife make holes deep enough to let in the larding; then rub the beef over with the seasoning, and bind it up tight with tape. Set it in a well-tinned pot over a fire or rather stove: three or four onions must be fried brown and put to the beef, with two or three carrots, one turnip, a head or two of celery, and a small quantity of water; let it simmer gently ten or twelve hours, or till extremely tender, turning the meat twice.
Put the gravy into a pan, remove the fat, keep the beef covered, then put them together, and add a glass of port wine. Take off the tape, and serve with the vegetables; or you may strain them off, and send them up cut into dice for garnish. Onions roasted, and then stewed with the gravy, are a great improvement. A tea-cupful of vinegar should be stewed with the beef.
A Fricandeau of Beef. |
To stew a Rump of Beef. |
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possible for several hours, till quite tender. Clear off the fat: and add to the gravy half a pint of port wine, a glass of vinegar, and a large spoonful of ketchup; simmer half an hour, and serve in a deep dish. Half a pint of table-beer may be added. The herbs to be used should be burnet, tarragon, parsley, thyme, basil, savoury, marjoram, pennyroyal, knotted marjoram, and some chives if you can get them, but observe to proportion the quantities to the pungency of the several sorts; let there be a good handful altogether.
Garnish with carrots, turnips, or truffles and morels, or pickles of different colours, cut small, and laid in little heaps separate; chopped parsley, chives, beet-root, &c. If, when clone, the gravy is too much to fill the dish, take only a part to season for serving, but the less water the better; and to increase the richness, add a few beef-bones and shanks of mutton in stewing.
A spoonful or two of made mustard is a great improvement to the gravy.
Rump
roasted is excellent; but in the country it is generally sold whole with the edgebone, or cut across instead of lengthways as in London, where one piece is for boiling, and the rump for stewing or roasting. This must be attended to, the whole being too large to dress together.
Stewed Rump another way. |
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herbs, spice, bread, and eggs, to bind, are a great improvement.
To stew Brisket of Beef. |
To press Beef. |
It eats excellently cold, and for sandwiches.
To make Hunters' Beef. |
The beef should hang two or three days; then rub the above well into it, and turn and rub it every day for two or three weeks. The bone must be taken out at first. When to be dressed, dip it into cold water, to take off the loose spice, bind it up tight with tape, and put it into a pan with a tea-cupful of water at the bottom, cover the top of the meat with shred suet, and the pan with a brown
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crust and paper, and bake it five or six hours. When cold, take off the paste and tape.
The gravy is very fine; and a little of it adds greatly to the flavour of any hash, soup, &c.
Both the gravy and the beef will keep some time. The meat should be cut with a very sharp knife, and quite smooth, to prevent waste.
An excellent Mode of dressing Beef. |
To collar Beef. |
Beef-Steaks |
This dish requires to be eaten so hot and fresh-done, that it is not in perfection if served with any thing else. Pepper and salt should be added when taking it off the fire.
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Beef-steaks and Oyster-sauce. |
Staffordshire Beef-steaks. |
Italian Beef-steaks. |
Beef-Collop. |
Beef-Palates. |
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then cut the palates into slices, or leave them whole, as you choose; and stew them in a rich gravy till as tender as possible. Before you serve, season them with Cayenne, salt, and ketchup. If the gravy was drawn clear, add also some butter and flour.
If to be served white, boil them in milk, and stew them in a fricassee-sauce; adding cream, butter, flour, and mushroom-powder, and a little pounded mace.
Beef-Cakes for a side-dish of dressed Meat. |
To pot Beef. |