The Oriental Cook Book...Keoleian, Ardashes H.Cookery, Asian.Complete Title: Wholesome, Dainty and economical dishes of the Orient, especially adapted to american tastes and methods of preparationNew York: Sully & KleinteichElectronic edition created by Digital & Multimedia Center, Michigan State University Libraries, East Lansing, Michigan, 2002-2003.Supplementary material by Jan Longone, Anne-Marie Rachman, Peter Berg, Yvonne Lockwood, and Val Berryman1913Textxml-external-parsed-entitygifquicktimehttp://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/oriental/orie.xmlOCLC 2566747enDigitized as part of "Feeding America: The Historic American Cookbook Project." Michigan State University Libraries, East Lansing, Michigan, 2002-2003. http://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/AsiaTwentieth centuryThe book digitized here was published in the United States before 1923 and is in the public domain according to U.S. copyright law. The digital version and supplementary materials are made available for all educational uses.

TheORIENTALCOOKBOOK

A.H. Keoleian

ARDASHES H. KEOLEIANA portrait of a man in a suit presumably Mr. A.H. Keoleian.
THE ORIENTALCOOK BOOK

WHOLESOME, DAINTY AND ECONOMICALDISHES OF THE ORIENT, ESPECIALLYADAPTED TO AMERICANTASTES AND METHODS OFPREPARATION

BYARDASHES H. KEOLEIAN(FORMERLY OF CONSTANTINOPLE)SULLY & KLEINTEICHNEW YORK1913

THIS BOOKISAFFECTIONATELY DEDICATEDTOTHE MEMORYOFMY BELOVED FATHER

Copyright, 1918, byARDASHES H. KEOLEIAN

All rights reserved, including translation intoforeign languages

PREFACE

In many respects the cooking of a country is directly indicative of the character of its inhabitants. Often, the disposition of a person, or of a nation, can be traced back with considerable certitude to the kind of food which has been habitually eaten for long periods. At any rate, there is always a certain correspondence to be noted between the general characteristics--physical, mental and spiritual (as we say for want of a better word)--and the foods, or the special methods of cooking of each individual, geographical section, nationality and racial group. This is a peculiarly fascinating line of thought, too much so, in fact, to be more than hinted at here; for anything even remotely approaching an adequate consideration of it would be out of all proportion to the space at our command for these few preliminary words. It must suffice, then, to say merely that the Orient, like the French Nation, presents unmistakable evidence of this great truth.

But, in addition to this law of individual and distinctive variation in the matter of cooking, asin all other fields as well, there is another law which is becoming more and more operative every day, perhaps especially among English-speaking people, and pre-eminently among Americans. May we call this latter the law of acquisition or assimilation? We mean thereby to characterize the remarkable tendency in the country to draw upon the riches of the rest of the world, in every realm of human achievement, and to make them one's own, either as a whole or in part, to make them minister to one's enjoyment and advancement. The United States is a Cosmopolitan Nation, with myriads of interests and capacities of appreciation, and there seem to be good and sufficient reasons today for offering its people access to what has been wrought by the genius of Oriental cookery.

In fact, the steadily increasing appreciation of, and demand among Occidentals for, Oriental cooking, finally induced us, among other reasons, to undertake the difficult task of writing this book.

The preparation of it we term a difficult task, perhaps for no other reason than this singular one, namely, the non-existence in the Orient, or among any of the Oriental nations--except amongthe Armenians, and that in an inefficient form--of any regular literature upon the Culinary Art, which might have served us as a guide among the widely differing recipes and ideas upon cookery that have existed from time immemorial, from the Balkans to Persia, and from Arabia and Egypt to the Caucasus. It has been, therefore, our exacting duty, not only to collect the best of the numerous recipes, but also to select from the countless variety such choice and practical ideas as will appeal, we hope, to the Occidental tastes and demands.

Being of Oriental origin, but knowing quite thorughly the characteristic taste of Western peoples in certain of the fine arts--in Oriental rugs, tapestries and general antiques, for example, as well as in other lines that have been appreciated by the educated and cultured--we have taken the pains, at the original suggestion and because of the incessant requests of some intimate American friends, to prepare this book. It has cost us many of the best years of our life and many expensive trips to the Orient, in order to secure at first hand right, positive, tested and authoritative information in regard to many things concerning which wehad previously only possessed natural ability, as an observer, and an eye for appreciation and selection. To this we think we may properly add a well-developed patience in research and a faithfulness in recording results, both of which qualities have had abundant exercise in the arduous but congenial labors now completed. Moreover, it may be added that we have had the frequent advice of some of the best-known exponents of Oriental Cookery as exemplified in the palaces and homes of the East.

As a consequence, we believe we have finally evolved a book which gives, in a designedly limited compass, the most representative, meritorius and easily adaptable methods of food preparation that are known and practiced all over the Orient by various nationalities, such as the Armenians, Bulgarians, Caucasians, Egyptians, Greeks, Jews, Persians, Syrians, Turks, etc., etc.

All human beings are naturally gifted with more or less ability, when occasion requires, to prepare food for themselves. The true art of Cookery, however, is not the possession of many, especially when it is exercised for the highest good and pleasure of others. This truly specialized andpraiseworthy function demands good judgment, an inherent sense of fitness and proportion in the choice and blending of food ingredients, reliable guidance, and after that practice and ever more practice.

But cookery should not be made a difficult task by minute descriptions of compositions and combinations--as is true of many cook books--in such a way as to cause the average housekeeper bewilderment or discouragement. Of course, excellent results in the art of cookery require a general knowledge of and experience in the art, on the part of the cook, yet, it should also be left with her to make a fair attempt at it, and use her own judgment considerably, regarding preparation and results. Cookery is neither practical nor successful when it is too scientific, because such success is largely dependent on the taste of the cook and those for whose enjoyment it is prepared.

Civilization has taught human beings to be careful in their selection of foodstuffs, and again, it has taught them, on the whole, to prepare the food in a way to make it more nourishing and palatable. Thus, the common reasons for cooking are already known to every person, which are, namely:

To do away with the hurtful substances in foodstuffs, and to cause destruction to microbes and other foreign matter in flesh and in vegetables.

To assist mastication and hasten digestion of food through proper combinations of various eatables; and finally

To use or serve them in the best style, suited to the customs and conceptions of civilized people.

Although cooking recipes are innumerable and vary much in different countries, still the general methods of cookery are simple and their operations few in number. They are: Boiling or Stewing, Broiling or Grilling, Baking, Roasting and Frying. All these methods are practiced, and in the preparation of some food often more than one method is used. Each one of these methods is also essential for the reason that certain food-stuffs can only be properly treated in one way in order to give them the desired taste and appearance. Each of these several methods agrees with tastes, and what may be indigestible to one may be quite digestible to another.

Oriental Cookery, like all else Oriental, is not based on strict science, but on natural and happycombinations of food ingredients and flavors which many, many years' experience on the part of different peoples has taught them. It is naturally, harmoniously and easily done, and is dependent for its successful result on good and wholesome ideas in general cooking, and anyone with a little courage can do it, too, without minutely following the given guide in the recipes.

Oriental cookery is valued not only because of its economy, because one can get the most out of the least material used in the preparation of a food, but it is also recognized and esteemed for its general body-building and nourishing character, and although it is solid and substantial, it is often dainty as well. In Oriental cooking, not a single dish is dependent on the extravagant use of expensive and various ingredients which, when counted up, make food very expensive, but it is dependent, and very much so, on the flavor of each different article used in the making thereof. For those, therefore, who are fond of plain food, but of the kind that puts an extra layer of fat on the consumer, Oriental cooking is especially recommended.

Successful Oriental cooking is based on thetheory that no one ingredient used should greatly outdo the others in strength, and that the result should be a perfect harmony. It should not be very difficult, therefore, for anyone who will remember this to follow the methods described in this book, and although we have, to the best of our ability, given the approximate quantities of every substance to be used in the preparation of each recipe, it is desirable, nevertheless, that each housekeeper should use her own judgment in regard to quantity, proportions, taste, and the like. We have aimed only to furnish general guidance in a field that will be wholly new to those for whom our work has been done. We do not pretend to lay down exact rules for families of different sizes and varied likings.

It has, furthermore, been taken for granted that those who purchase a copy of this Oriental Cook Book will not look to find in it that general and widespread information about cookery, which it is to be assumed every housewife already possesses. For instance, when we have spoken of Boiling or Frying, we have avoided the common explanation of what is meant by boiling or frying, nor have we given the scientific explanation there-of--the temperature required, the changes produced in the process, and so on. We have prepared this book largely for those who know how to do the little ordinary things involved in the culinary art, who will understand the meaning of our expressions, who know the ingredients already in use and are able to comprehend their nature without looking for our explanation of them.

Thus--not believing it to be consistent with our present purpose--we have avoided giving the different food properties contained in each ingredient, such as the water, the albuminoids, the fat, the starch, the sugar and the salts, which are to be found always in our daily food compositions.

In short, we have not written anything about the degree of temperature at which olive oil or butter will melt or come to a smoking point, nor stated that such ingredients are nourishing in certain conditions and not in others; that meat, fish or vegetables will fry in fat of a certain degree and not in less, etc., etc. All these things have been avoided because we take it for granted that our readers will only be interested in the recipes of Oriental Cookery and the facts relating thereto, which have been handed down through the centuries.

While wishing to be modest in all our assertions regarding the merits of this Oriental Cook Book, we find ourselves hoping that it may eventually take its place alongside of fine rugs, tapestries and other objects of art, as a means of making the Orient known to the Occidental mind. The culinary art of those romantic lands, whose people for many centuries have been the recipients and faithful preservers of valuable secrets along this line, has a rare and rewarding interest of its own, which, we believe, may well engage the earnest attention of women of Western lands.

We have omitted illustrations in this book, for the good reason that Oriental cooking is wholly based on remarkable combinations of foodstuffs which no illustration can ever depict.

We feel that all our efforts will be well and fully repaid if this work meets with appreciation on the part of any considerable number of those who are interested in the art of cookery, either as housewives, cooking teachers or professional cooks. We are quite confident that it will do so, if merit counts for anything, for it not only stands alone as an exposition of Oriental cookery in English, but we cannot find that it lacks any of the essentialsof completeness or practicability which characterizes its American and English exemplars.

We also trust that this book may be found to be, to some degree at least, instrumental in reducing the high cost of living for those who make use of it, inasmuch as one of the fundamentals of Eastern cookery is the maximum of savor with the minimum of expense.

Were it possible for us to allude, in this preface, to the many remarkable dishes that have made Oriental cookery famous, perhaps they might induce a readier recognition of the merits of the book. However, as they are dealt with in detail in their respective places in the body of the work, we refrain from mentioning them in this limited space, leaving it to our readers to make use of the recipes which we have made as explanatory as possible.

By the will of Allah, we remain,

Very sincerely yours,

ARDASHES H. KEOLEIAN.

New York, N. Y.

1913.

The Oriental Cook BookTABLE OF CONTENTSPAGEA FEW IMPORTANT NOTES......................................... 17SOUPS.............................................................. 20PILAFS............................................................. 41FISH............................................................... 52BAKED FISH......................................................... 54BROILED FISH....................................................... 60FRIED FISH......................................................... 64BOILED FISH........................................................ 67PICKLED AND SALTED FISH....................................... 73OYSTERS............................................................ 77LOBSTERS........................................................... 86MACARONI........................................................... 92BROILED MEATS...................................................... 101ROASTS............................................................. 123BOILED DISHES...................................................... 135VEGETABLES--WITH MEAT......................................... 151VEGETABLES--WITH AND WITHOUT BUTTER OR OLIVE OIL................... 179STUFFED DISHES--WITH MEAT............................... 208 PAGEOTHER STUFFED DISHES--WITH OLIVE OIL............................... 213MINCED MEAT DISHES................................................. 224MISCELLANEOUS...................................................... 233SAUCES............................................................. 244EGGS............................................................... 257SALADS............................................................. 266PICKLES............................................................ 276PASTRY............................................................. 284FRUITS AND {CREAMS}................................................ 304PRESERVES.......................................................... 312DESSERTS........................................................... 319EXTRAS............................................................. 326ORDER OF SERVICE................................................... 333MENUS.............................................................. 334LIST OF SPECIAL ORIENTAL INGREDIENTS............................... 344
 THE ORIENTAL COOK BOOKA Few Important Notes

In the preparation of Oriental dishes, stock or broth is used extensively instead of plain water. This practice, however, does not involve any special effort or expense because the materials used for this purpose are trimmings of meat or poultry bones, and the like, not fat, nor any other foreign substances, except uncooked vegetables.

The making of stock is very simple, as it only consists in boiling the above mentioned materials in plain water. It is unnecessary to say that before using this broth for any purpose it should be strained through a fine metal sieve.

THE KINDS OF MEAT USED: In Oriental cookery lamb is the principal meat used, with which most of the Kebabs, the Basdis and the Dolmas are very delicately made. Still, good beef, veal and mutton often serve the purpose. However, it is better that the question of the meat should be left entirely to the judgment and liking of those for whom the food is prepared.

PREPARATION OF DRESSINGS, ETC.: There are certain Dressings--Terbieh--which are exclusively Oriental. These Dressings consist of the following ingredients and are used with:

1.--Certain Boiled Dishes, Soups, Etc.Dressing is made with the juice of lemon and beaten egg (the preparation of either or both can be increased according to taste and requirement), and is used by pouring the combination of both over the whole food, after blending the mixture with a little portion of the boiled cooking.

2.--Certain Soups, Etc. Dressing is made with overheated butter and chopped dry onion or crumbs of bread, with pepper shaken over. This mixture, after good frying, is poured into the food and stirred.

3.--Boiled Head and Shin of Lamb, Mutton, Veal and Beef. Dressing is made with the juice of garlic, vinegar and beaten eggs, and is used by pouring over the whole food, after blending the mixture with a little portion of the cooking.

4.--Certain Boiled Dry Beans, Broiled Fish, Broiled Meat, Etc. Piaz, a mixture of finely cut dry onions (or green onions in season) crushed with salt, then washed, and then mixed with finely cut parsley, is used as garnishing.

5.--Meats, Fishes, Oysters, Etc., also with Salads. Mayonnaise is made of very finely cut and pressed parsley, olive oil, the juice of a lemon and the yolk of egg, also salt and pepper, all well mixed.

6.--Pastry and Deserts. Sugar syrup is used on most of Oriental pastry and deserts, and is made of sugar simmered in plain water and moderately thickened.

 SOUPS[TCHORBA.]

The basis of all Meat Soup is stock or broth, obtained from the boiling, in plain water, of bones and meat trimmings, or trimmings of fowls. Various dressings and flavorings are also used with certain soups to enrich them.

Compared with the various soups of the other countries, the Oriental soups are fewer in number, although the Oriental peoples are considered great soup-eaters. In quality, these soups are very superior, though very simple in their composition and in general appearance.

In the making of soups, one can easily determine on the kind wished and use the ingredients accordingly. Thus, rice can be very conveniently replaced by any suitable cereal, barley, macaroni, Italian paste, etc.

Soups must be served hot always.

PREPARATION OF STOCK OR BROTH.For Soups, Pilafs and Other Dishes. Use always the bones, especially from the leg or aitchbone of Beef, the tail or any other meat trimmings. Wash them once or twice and leave in plain water for one-half hour. Then, after adding to it as much water as the quantity of the meat or bones requires, boil the whole in a large vessel, over a moderate fire, taking the scum off as it boils. During the boiling, cut into it one dry onion, one carrot, one bunch of parsley, a pinch of salt and two or three stalks of celery. After the contents of the vessel come to a boil, place it to one side of the stove fire, and leave it to simmer for three or four hours.

This broth should always be strained, when used for soups, and more water can be added to the vessel for secondary purposes, as for the use of Pilafs and other dishes.

In extracting broth from fowls for soup, do not use any of the vegetables mentioned above.

1. PLAIN BROTH. Of Meat Chicken or Other Fowls.[SADEH ET SOUYOU.]

Ingredients: Stock ............................................ for 6 plates. Parsley ............................................... 1 bunch. Lemon ........................................................1. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Serve rich, hot broth, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper with lemon, after boiling with one heavy bunch of parsley hung in the vessel.

2. PLAIN BROTH WITH EGGS.[SADEH ET SOUYOU YOUMOURTALI.]

Ingredients: Stock ............................................. for 6 plates. Eggs ..........................................................6. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Serve rich, hot broth, after it is prepared in the same manner as described in Style No. 1, breaking one raw egg in each plate of it.

The broth should be so hot as to cause the white of the eggs to become partially poached.

3. PLAIN BROTH WITH DRESSING.[SADEH ET SOUYOU TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock .............................................. for 6 plates. Lemon ..........................................................1. Egg ............................................................1. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Bring the broth to a boil, season to taste and have it ready for the following dressing:

Beat the egg and mix well with the juice of the lemon, blend the mixture with some of the broth, then pour into the vessel, stir well and serve hot.

4. RICE-SOUP, PLAIN.[PIRINTCH TCHORBA SADEH.]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................ for 6 plates. Rice ................................................... 1/4 cupful. Lemon ............................................................1. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Wash the rice well and boil in plain water until half done. Strain and pass through cold water three or four times. Then, after seasoning itto taste, boil it in broth for 25 to 30 minutes. The quantity of the rice, in proportion to that of the broth, is dependent on the thickness or thinness of the soup required. Serve hot and with lemon.

5. RICE-SOUP WITH DRESSING.[PIRINTCH TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock .................................................. for 6 plates. Rice ......................................................1/4 cupful. Egg ................................................................1. Lemon ..............................................................1. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Prepare the rice-soup as directed in the foregoing recipe, and then add to it the dressing as described in Style No. 3.

6. RICE-SOUP WITH DRESSING. Another Style. [PIRINTCH TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock..................................................... for 6 plates. Rice ....................................................... 1/4 cupful. Butter ................................................ 1 tablespoonful. Onion ................................................ 1/2 or 1, medium. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

After preparing the rice soup as described in Style No. 4, add to it the following dressing:

Place the butter in a frying pan and bring to the burning point, then put into it the onion, well chopped--(bread crumbs will do instead). Shake some pepper over it, and when the onion is fried to a brown shade, pour it into the soup gradually and stir. Lemon may be conveniently served with this soup.

7. VEGETABLE SOUP.[SEBZEVATLI TCHORBA]

Ingredients: Stock .................................................... for 6 plates. Carrot .............................................................. 1. Celery ....................................................... 6 stalks. Dry Onions .................................................. 2, medium. Parsley ....................................................... 1 bunch. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Slice very finely the carrot, the celery, the onions and the parsley into the broth, and simmer until the vegetables are well done, and, after seasoning to taste, serve.

Some prefer frying the vegetables in butter, before boiling them in the broth.

8. VEGETABLE SOUP WITH DRESSING.[SEBZEVATLI TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................... for 6 plates. Potatoes ................................................... 3, boiled. Onions ..................................................... 2, medium. Tomatoes ............. 3 (or 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes). Butter ............................................... 1 tablespoonful. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Slice the boiled potatoes, the onions and the tomatoes and boil them together for 10 to 15 minutes in some broth, then pass the whole through a wire sieve into the broth ready for making the soup; after seasoning to taste, continue boiling over a moderate fire for 10 to 15 minutes longer.

Dressing like that described in Style No. 6 should be added immediately after it is taken from the fire.

9. ONION SOUP WITH DRESSING.[SOGHANLI TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock .................................................. for 6 plates. Flour ............................................... 1 tablespoonful. Dry Onions ................................................ 2, medium. Butter .............................................. 1 tablespoonful. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Cut the onions in small pieces, boil well in a little plain water, then put through a fine metal sieve. After blending this with the flour, with the aid of some warm broth, the mixture should be poured into the hot broth, seasoned to taste and stirred gently but constantly until the smell of the flour is lost in simmering on slow fire.

Dressing like that described in Style No. 6 should be added immediately after the vessel is taken from the fire.

10. *"IMRIK" SOUP WITH DRESSING.[IMBIK TOHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock ............................................... for 6 plates. Cream of Wheat ................................... 1 tablespoonful. Butter .......................................... 2 tablespoonfuls. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Place the Cream of Wheat with the butter in a frying pan and fry well over a slow fire, but stir constantly and gently. This done, pour it into the broth, season to taste and simmer until it gets sufficiently thick.

Dressing like that of Style No. 6 may conveniently be used with the above soup.

 This footnote appears at the bottom of page 28 in the original text.

*"Imrik" is equivalent to Cream of Wheat Cereal.

11. LENTIL SOUP WITH DRESSING.[MERJIMEK TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................. for 6 plates. Lentils ................................................... 1 cupful. Butter ............................................. 1 tablespoonful. Onion .................................................... 1, medium. Salt and pepper. to taste.

Method:

Soak the Lentils for 10 to 12 hours, and after washing well, boil them together with the onion, chopped, in some broth until well done. Then pass through a fine metal sieve into a little more broth. Season to taste and simmer over slow fire.

Dressing made as in Style No. 6 should be used with it.

Croutons of fried or well toasted bread may be placed with this soup when put in plates. Some people sprinkle very finely cut parsley over it instead of the croutons, and still others use both the parsley and the croutons.

12. LENTIL SOUP, PLAIN, [MERJIMEK TCHORBA SADEH.]

Ingredients: Stock .................................................. for 6 plates. Lentils .................................................. 1/2 cupful. Tomatoes ...... 1, ripe (or 2 to 3 tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes). Onion ..................................................... 1, medium. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Soak the Lentils in plain water for 10 to 12 hours, wash, strain and boil in broth until tender, meanwhile chopping into it the onion and the tomato, and seasoning it to taste.

Dressing as described in Style No. 6 may not be out of place; on the contrary, it will add to its richness immensely.

13. GIBLETS SOUP WITH DRESSING.[KATTI TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................ for 6 plates. Rice ................................................... 1/4 cupful. Giblets ............................. of 2 or 3 chickens or turkeys. Egg ............................................................. 1. Lemon ........................................................... 1. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Clean the giblets well and chop very finely. Boil these and the well-washed rice together in chicken or turkey broth, on slow fire, after seasoning it to taste. When done, to the whole add the dressing made as described in Style No. 3. Serve hot.

14. *"MATZOUN" SOUP WITH DRESSING. [YOGHOURTLOU TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock ............................................... for 6 plates. Rice .................................................. 1/4 cupful. Butter ........................................... 1 tablespoonful. Onion .................................................. 1, medium. Matzoun ................................................ 2 cupfuls. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Wash the rice and boil until tender, either in chicken, turkey or beef broth, meanwhile seasoning to taste. To this add the dressing made as described in Style No. 6. Also, with great care, blend the Matzoun with part of the soup, in a separate pan, stirring gently and constantly, and then return to the vessel, pouring it into the soup. Serve when a little cool.

A little powdered mint will add to the delicacy of the flavor.

*See "EXTRAS," page 326.

15. "GLORAGH" SOUP WITH DRESSING.["YOUVARLAK" TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................ for 10 plates. Meat ........................................ 1/2 pound, well minced. Rice .................................................... 1/4 cupful. Parsley .................................................. 1/2 bunch. Onion .................................................... 2, medium. Egg .............................................................. 1. Lemon ............................................................ 1. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Chop very fine the parsley and the onion, and mix well with the washed rice and minced meat. Season the mixture to taste, and mould into the shape and size of English hazel nuts. This done, place them in boiling broth, and cook until the meat and the rice are well done. Dressing made with egg and the juice of lemon, beaten together, should be added to the whole, after first blending it with part of the broth of the soup. Serve hot.

16. "GLORAGH" SOUP WITH DRESSING AND MATZOUN. [YOGHOURTLOU "YOUVARLAK" TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................ for 10 plates. Meat ........................................ 1/2 pound, well minced. Rice .................................................... 1/4 cupful .Onions ................................................... 2, medium. Parsley .................................................. 1/2 bunch. Butter ............................................. 1 tablespoonful. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

After preparing the soup as described in Style No. 15, add to it a dressing made of butter and finely chopped onion or bread crumbs (see Style No. 6), also the Matzoun, as in the case of the recipe for Style No. 14. Serve hot.

17. THICK SOUP. [LAPA TCHORBA.]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................. for 6 plates. Rice .................................................... 1/2 cupful. Butter ............................................. 1 tablespoonful. Tomatoes ........... 3 (or 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes). Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Place all the ingredients, the tomatoes being cut into small pieces, in a deep vessel, then add the broth; season to taste and boil over moderate fire, until the rice is sufficiently cooked, or is tender. Serve when a little cool.

18. TRIPE SOUP WITH DRESSING.[ISHGAMREH TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock .............................................. for 10 plates. Tripe ...................................... 1 pound, well cleaned. Chick Pea ....................................... 2 tablespoonfuls. Wheat Starch ................................... 1/2 tablespoonful. Eggs ........................................................... 2. Lemon .......................................................... 1. Garlic ........................................... 4 bulbs, peeled. Salt and red pepper, to taste.

Method:

Take the well-cleaned tripe, chop in very small pieces and boil well in broth with the chick peas (which must have been soaked in plain water for 10 to 12 hours) and garlic. Skim the scum off and season to taste when it comes to a boil. When done, break the eggs in a separate plate and beat well with the juice of the lemon, for dressing. Then take the starch, soak in a little water and blend with the mixture of the egg and the lemon juice, also with some of the soup. Care should be taken that during the blending, the egg may not get curdled. Serve hot.

19. CALF'S HEAD SOUP WITH DRESSING.[DANA BASH TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Calf's head ........................................ 1/4 or 1/2 part. Tomatoes ..... 2, ripe (or 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes). Eggs ............................................................. 2. Lemon ............................................................ 1. Parsley .................................................... 1 bunch. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Wash the head, boil well, but take off the scum when boiling; then add the parsley, well choppped, also the tomatoes, cut in small pieces. Season to taste. When done, the broth should be strained and the dressing, as described in Style No. 3, should be added to it.

20. FLOUR SOUP WITH DRESSING.[OUN TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................ for 6 plates. Meat ........................................... 1/8 pound, boneless. Flour ............................................. 1 tablespoonful. Egg ............................................................. 1. Lemon ........................................................... 1. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Cut the meat into very small pieces and boil in broth until quite tender. When nearly done, blend the flour with a little plain water into a thin paste and pour into the soup gradually, meanwhile stirring the soup gently to prevent coagulation. Season to taste. The soup should continue to simmer, over a slow fire, until well done--that is, until the smell of the flour is eliminated.

Dressing with beaten egg and lemon juice should be added in the same manner as described in Style No. 3. Serve hot.

21. FLOUR SOUP WITH DRESSING.Another Style.[OUN TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................ for 6 plates. Flour ............................................. 1 tablespoonful. Egg ............................................................. 1. Butter ............................................ 1 tablespoonful. Onion ........................................ 1/2 (or breadcrumbs). Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

This soup is prepared in exactly the same way as the flour soup in the preceding recipe, No. 20, omitting the meat.

As to the dressing, hot butter and finely chopped onion, or the breadcrumb combination, may also conveniently be used. (See Style No. 6.) The beaten egg, however, should be blended with the soup before it is done, and the dressing should be applied afterwards. Serve hot.

22. *"TARHANA" SOUP WITH DRESSING.[TARHANA TCHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Stock .............................................. for 6 plates. Tarhana .............................................. 1/4 cupful. Mint .................................................. 2 pinches. Butter .......................................... 1 tablespoonful. Onion ...................................... 1/2 (or breadcrumbs). Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Place the vessel, containing the cold broth, over a moderate fire, and pour the Tarhana into it gradually, meanwhile stirring it constantly to prevent coagulation. Season to taste. When done, heat the butter in a frying pan, chop the onion into it very finely (breadcrumbs may be used instead of onion), and fry until pink; to this add the dry mint and a little pepper, then pour the whole into the vessel and stir, in order to cause the dressing to blend well with the soup. Serve hot.

* See special list of Oriental Ingredients.

23. FISH CHOWDER WITH DRESSING.[BALUCK TOHORBA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Plain Water ................................. for 10 plates. Bass ............................................ 1/2 pound. Butter ................................... 2 tablespoonfuls. Vinegar ................................... 1 tablespoonful. Onions ........................................... 2, small. Eggs .................................................... 2. Lemon ................................................... 1. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Chop the onions fine and fry in butter until brown, in a deep vessel. Then add the water gradually, also the vinegar. When the contents of the vessel are nearly boiling, cut the well cleaned fish into it in small pieces, season to taste, and leave it to simmer until done. The dressing should then be applied in like manner as described in Style No. 3. Serve hot.

24. TOMATO SOUP.[DOMATES TOHORBA.]

Ingredients: Plain water ............................................. for 7 plates. Butter ............................................... 1 tablespoonful. Tomatoes .. 3 to 4, ripe (or 4 to 5 tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes). Rice or Cracked Wheat ..................1/4 or 1/3 cupful respectively. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Bring the butter to burning point, cut into it the tomatoes, and fry for 8 to 10 minutes; then add the rice or the cracked wheat, and after five minutes' frying pour in the plain water (hot water) in portions at five-minute intervals, and continue boiling until the rice or the cracked wheat is well cooked.

 PILAFS[PILAF.]

The so-called "Turkish Pilaf," in its many varieties, is one of the best known and most popular dishes among the Oriental peoples. It is prepared with broth and rice, or cracked wheat instead. It might be said that Pilaf is plain thick soup, were it not for certain diversities in its composition which make it quite different from ordinary soup.

The stock or broth used for Pilafs is either of plain meat or chicken and turkey--it can be of game as well.

Dressings of certain kinds and flavors are also used in the making of Pilafs.

In the Orient, with frugal people, a Pilaf made of cracked wheat often takes the place of a meal, or acts as the principal dish at a dinner.

Pilafs, the rules for making which are given below, may be easily prepared if the directions are carefully and intelligently followed.

Like soups, they must always be served hot and eaten either with spoon or fork.

1. PILAF, PLAIN.[PILAF SADEH.]

Ingredients: Stock .............................................. 5 cupfuls. Rice ............................................... 2 cupfuls. Butter ...................................... 2 tablespoonfuls. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

In one deep vessel, fry well the washed rice in the butter, then add the broth. Season to taste and boil over strong fire. When nearly done, slow up the fire under the vessel and cover the pilaf with a piece of white muslin under the lid, falling a little over the brim of the vessel in order to prevent the steam falling back into the vessel. After 5 to 10 minutes stir the rice lightly with the aid of a perforated spoon, and put into hot oven until all its moisture is evaporated and the rice remain almost dry.

Cracked wheat may be used instead of rice.

2. PILAF, PLAIN. Another Style.[PILAF SADEH.]

Ingredients: Stock ............................................... 5 cupfuls. Rice ................................................ 2 cupfuls. Butter ....................................... 2 tablespoonfuls. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Bring the broth to a boil first, then put the rice into it. Season to taste, and continue boiling until all the water is evaporated. This done, take the vessel off the fire and heat the butter well in a frying pan; then pour over the boiled rice; cover with white muslin under the lid and place in hot over for 15 to 20 minutes.

3. PILAF WITH TOMATOES.[DOMATESLI PILAF.]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................... 5 cupfuls. Rice .................................................... 2 cupfuls. Butter ........................................... 2 tablespoonfuls. Onion .................................................... 1, small. Tomatoes .... 4, ripe (or 5 to 6 tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes). Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Chop the onion very fine and fry in part of the butter until pink. After placing it in a deep vessel, add to it the juice of the tomatoes, also the broth and the rice, which must be well washed. Season to taste and boil until done; pour over the whole the heated butter and place the vessel in moderately hot oven for 10 to 15 minutes.

4. PILAF WITH BLUE FISH.[YULIFER PILAF.]

Ingredients: Plain water .......................................... 5 cupfuls. Rice ................................................. 2 cupfuls. Olive Oil ........................................... 1/4 cupful. Blue Fish ............................................. 1 pounds. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Place the olive oil in a deep vessel and bring to smoking point on moderate fire. To this add the water gradually, and when this comes to a boil, put the rice in; then, after placing the fish over the rice, season to taste; cover and leave boiling until all the water evaporates.

5. PILAF WITHOUT WATER.[SOUSOUZ PILAF.]

Ingredients: Lamb ................................................ 1/2 pound. Rice ................................................ 2 cupfuls. Butter ....................................... 2 tablespoonfuls. Mastic .......................................... 3 to 4 pieces. Cinnamon ............................... 1 small (2 inch) stick. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Cut the meat into small pieces, season with salt and pepper, and arrange in the bottom of a deep vessel. Spread over this the rice; pour the melted butter over it; and after adding the mastic and the cinnamon, cover the vessel with a wet cloth overlapping the brim, and place the lid of the vessel upside down, gathering the ends of the cloth in the center of the lid and keeping it well moistened. This Pilaf must be cooked on a very slow fire for over three hours. Once in a while some butter may be added.

6. PILAF WITHOUT BUTTER.[YAGHSIZ PILAF.]

Ingredients: Chicken ........................................... 1 (fat) small. Rice .................................................. 2 cupfuls. Cinnamon ................................. 1 small (2 inch) stick. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Boil the chicken so thoroughly in plain water that not a particle of strength is left in the meat. Then strain through a metal sieve; add the rice to this rich broth, also the cinnamon, and, after seasoning it to taste, cook over strong fire until all the water is evaporated.

7. PILAF OF CRACKED WHEAT.[BOULGHOUR PILAF]

Ingredients: Stock ................................................ 5 cupfuls. Cracked Wheat ........................................ 2 cupfuls. Butter ......................................... 1 tablespoonful. Onion ..................................... 1/2 (or breadcrumbs). Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

In a deep vessel bring the broth to a boil and pour the cracked wheat into it; season to taste with salt, and boil on moderate fire until done. Then heat the butter in a separate pan, chop the onion into it, sift over the pepper, and when the onion is fried pink, pour it over the Pilaf in the vessel and stir well until the entire contents is saturated with it.

The vessel then should be placed in a hot oven, uncovered, to cause the remaining water to evaporate.

Serve this Pilaf hot, with or without Matzoun over it.

8. SAFFRON PILAF.[ZERDEH PILAF.]

The so-called Saffron Pilaf, which is called also the "Wedding Pilaf," because it is invariably made and served during wedding dinners or other great occasions in the Orient, is composed of two parts, the first being the Plain Pilaf (see Pilafs, Style No. 1.), which should be prepared before the second part is attempted.

The second part, with the saffron, is prepared with the following ingredients and method:

Ingredients: Plain water ........................................ 3 cupfuls. Rice ................................................ 1 cupful. Saffron ............................................ 2 pinches. Rose water ...................................2 tablespoonfuls. Sugar ............................................. 1/2 cupful.

Method:

Put the washed rice and the water together in a deep vessel and boil over moderate fire until nearly done, then add the sugar, also the saffron (which must have been soaked in the rose water for 24 hours), and mix well. When the rice is well cooked, the Pilaf may be considered done, and soit should be poured over the first plain part of the Pilaf. Serve in a deep plate.

If the entire quantity is not to be used at one time, then it is advisable to keep each section of it separate for reheating.

 The following note appears at the bottom of page 48.

* See Special List of Oriental Ingredients.

9. PERSIAN PILAF.[AJEM PILAF.]

Ingredients: Fat Meat ......................... 1/2 pound, of mutton or lamb. Plain water ......................................... 3 cupfuls. Rice ................................................. 1 cupful. Onions .......................................................2. Condiments ...*fistuck, *kishnish, cinnamon and cloves (very little of each, according to liking). Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Cut the meat into very small pieces, and fry in its own fat in a deep vessel, over a moderate fire. Then take out the meat with the aid of a perforated spoon, and chop the onions into the fat remaining in the vessel, frying it well until brown. Then put the meat back into the vessel, and over this pour the washed rice and the condiments, seasoning to taste. To this finally add the water and continue cooking until the rice is done. The remaining water of the Pilaf, if there is any, may be evaporated by placing the vessel in a hot oven, uncovered.

10. BULGARIAN PILAF.[BULGHAR PILAF.]

Ingredients: Stock ............................................ 5 cupfuls. Rice ............................................. 2 cupfuls. Lamb Kidneys ...................................... 4, fresh. Cress ............................................ 1/2 bunch. Butter .................................... 2 tablespoonfuls. Onion ............................................. 1 medium. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

In a deep vessel place the washed rice, the butter, the kidneys, well chopped, also the onion and the cress, finely cut. Season to taste, add the broth, mix well and boil over moderate fire. After it is done, place the vessel, uncovered, in a hot oven to cause the remaining moisture to evaporate.

11. RICE PILAF WITH TOMATOES.[DOMATESLI PIRINTCH PILAF.]

Ingredients: Plain water .................................................. 3 cupfuls. Rice .......................................................... 1 cupful. Butter ................................................. 1 tablespoonful. Tomatoes .... 2 to 3, ripe (or 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes). Salt, to taste.

Method:

Bring the butter to burning point, add the tomatoes and fry for 10 to 12 minutes, then pour in the water, gradually, and when it comes to a boil, add the well-washed rice and cook it until nearly done, when a piece of white muslin should be thrown over the vessel, under the lid, to absorb the steam and prevent its falling back into the pilaf. After 8 to 10 minutes the pilaf should be stirred with the aid of a perforated spoon, and the dampness may be caused to evaporate by placing the vessel either in a moderately hot oven or over a slow fire.

12. CRACKED WHEAT PILAF WITH TOMATOES.[DOMATESLI BOULGHOUR PILAF.]

Ingredients: Plain water .................................................. 3 cupfuls. Cracked Wheat ................................................. 1 cupful. Butter ................................................. 1 tablespoonful. Tomatoes .... 2 to 3, ripe (or 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes). Salt, to taste.

Method:

Heat the butter to burning point, add the tomatoes, and fry for 10 to 12 minutes; then pour in the water gradually, and when this comes to a boiling point, add the cracked wheat, also the salt, and boil until done, when a piece of white muslin should be thrown over the vessel, under the lid, to prevent the steam from falling back into the pilaf. After ten minutes the pilaf should be stirred with the aid of a perforated spoon, and the dampness may be caused to evaporate by placing the vessel in a moderately hot oven.

 FISH[BALUCK.]

In the Orient, the varieties of fish are numerous and possess better flavors than most of their kind in other waters; therefore, they have become an important article of diet, either as a part of certain dishes or by themselves, and are greatly esteemed. The method of preparation adds greatly to the delicacy of all fish food, and we trust we may be permitted to say, with a just and modest pride, that the proper treatment of fish for the table is an Oriental specialty.

Besides being used as a more or less nourishing food, certain kinds of fish are also prepared in the Orient as relishes in endless variety. We are glad to give in this book the recipes of the principal dishes of both kinds.

Fish must always be fried in olive oil, if there is not a serious reason for doing otherwise, as it will turn an unpleasing color when fried in any other fat.

In preparing fish dishes, care should be taken that the fish to be used are strictly fresh. This condition may be known by the following indications:

First of all, the redness of the gills--natural redness, not painted--and the brightness of the eyes, may be considered a good guide.

Also, fish should be stiff, and the skin not blistered nor loose.

Fresh fish are generally moist. One should be careful, however, to see that they have not been rendered so artificially.

The eyes of fresh fish are never sunken into the head. A very unpleasant smell may also be considered as an unfavorable sign.

As will readily be noticed, the recipes for fish dishes contained in this book require neither large varieties nor very big quantities of them; therefore, it is recommended that small fish always be selected, for it is very often the case that the large fish are old and consequently tough. Therefore, they not only take a longer time to cook, but are also likely to be tasteless, while the small fish are quite on the contrary.

BAKED FISH.List of Fish Suitable for Baking.BassHakeShadBlue FishHalibutSmeltsBreamHerringSoleCarpLampreySqueleagueEelMackerelSturgeonFlat FishMullet, RedSword FishGraylingPikeTenchGurnetPlaiceTroutHaddockPollackWhitingSalmon

1. BAKED FISH.[BALUCK PLAKI.]

Ingredients: Fish ..................................................... 3 pounds. Garlic ....................................... 1 head, bulbs peeled. Parsley ................................................... 1 bunch. Tomatoes ..... 3 ripe (or 4 to 5 tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes). Lemon ........................................................... 1. Olive Oil .............................................. 1/2 cupful. Flour ............................................. 1 tablespoonful. Plain Water .............................................. 1 cupful. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Lay the fish in a deep flat pan, after it is properly cleaned and washed; then bury it withthe ingredients listed above, in the following manner:

First of all, slice the tomatoes over the fish, then add the garlic, the bulbs of which must be well peeled. Blend the flour in the water into creamy thickness and pour over the fish, also sift the parsley after it is very finely cut, then pour on the olive oil and lemon juice. Season to taste, place the pan in a moderately hot oven, leaving it there until the contents are well baked.

Serve either hot or cold, in own pan or on a platter over lettuce leaves, and garnish with parsley, sliced lemons and red radish.

2. BAKED FISH. Another Style.[BALUCK PLAKI.]

Ingredients: Fish ..................................................... 3 pounds. Onions .................................................. 2, medium. Tomatoes ... 3, ripe (or 4 to 5 tablespoonfuls of canned tomatoes). Parsley ................................................... 1 bunch. Mint .................................................... 1/2 bunch. Olive Oil .............................................. 1/2 cupful. Plain Water .............................................. 1 cupful. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

First of all, coat the fish slightly with oil and broil over slow fire, then lay it in a deep flat pan, over which should be placed the above listed ingredients in the following manner:

Slice the tomatoes and arrange over the fish, also the dry onions likewise. Sift over this the parsley and the mint, both of which must be very finely cut, then add the water and the oil. Season to taste and bake in a hot oven until done.

Serve hot or cold, on lettuce leaves, and garnish with sliced lemons.

3. BAKED FISH A LA "ARMENIA."[ERMENI BALUCK PLAKI.]

Ingredients: Fish ..................................................... 3 pounds. Butter ........................................... 2 tablespoonfuls. Olive Oil .............................................. 1/2 cupful. Onions .................................................. 4, medium. Lemons .......................................................... 2. Eggs ............................................................ 3. Parsley ................................................... 1 bunch. Curry ............................................... 1 teaspoonful. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Clean the fish well and then cut from head to tail down the backbone, with the aid of a sharp-pointed knife. Cut these again into halves; salt and leave for one to two hours. Then, in one deep flat pan, put the butter and the olive oil together. In this mixture the chopped onions should be fried, not very brown. Over this arrange the pieces of fish which must be washed; then add the eggs, well beaten, also the juice of the lemons and the parsley--cut fine. Sift the curry; season to taste and, after pouring on almost enough water to cover the ingredients, place the pan in a moderatedly hot oven and leave there until well baked.

Use more lemon, if desired, when serving.

4. STEAM BAKED FISH.[BALUCK BOGHOU-PLAKI.]

Ingredients: Fish ...................................................... 3 pounds. Lemons ........................................................... 3. Olive Oil ............................................... 1/2 cupful. Plain Water ............................................. 1/2 cupful. Parsley .................................................... 1 bunch. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Clean the fish well, wash, lay in a vessel and pour over it the juice of the lemons, the olive oil and the water. After seasoning to taste, place the lid of the vessel on, upside down. The edge of the lid should then be sealed to the vessel with some batter, made of water and flour, in order to prevent the steam from escaping from the vessel. This done, put cold water in the hollow of the lid, as much as it will hold, and let the contents of the vessel simmer over a moderate fire. When the water in the hollow of the lid comes to a boil or becomes very hot, take it out with the aid of a sponge and put cold water in instead. At the end of the third change of this sort, the fish may be considered well baked. Serve hot with some very finely cut parsley sifted over it.

5. ROYAL BAKED FISH.["HUNEKIAR" BALUCK PLAKI.]

Ingredients: Red Mulletts ............................................ 12, small. Biscuits ....................................................... 12. Parsley ................................................... 1 bunch. Garlic ....................................... 1 head, bulbs peeled. Lemons .......................................................... 3. Red Wine ................................................. 1 cupful. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Clean the fish properly and arrange side by side in a small, deep, flat pan, the bottom of which must be covered with one-half part of the finely crushed biscuits. Over this pour the wine and the juice of the lemons; also add the garlic, the bulbs of which must be peeled clean. Then sift over the finely cut parsley, season to taste, and, after covering the whole with plain water and with the rest of the crushed biscuits, bake in a moderately hot oven until done; the indication of which is the lowering of the water below the surface of the ingredients. Serve hot.

6. "SULTANA" OVEN-BAKED FISH.["SULTANA" BALUCK FOUROUN.]

Ingredients: Fish .................................................. 3 pounds. White Wine ........................................... 2 cupfuls. Olive Oil ..................................... 2 tablespoonfuls. Garlic .................................... 1 head, bulbs peeled. Biscuits ........................................... 12, crushed. Parsley ................................................ 1 bunch. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Clean the fish properly; slice into pieces about two inches thick and leave in salt for one to two hours. Then wash the slices once more and arrange, side by side, in a deep, flat pan, over a layer of well crushed biscuits. This done, pour upon the fish, first the wine, then the olive oil and the juice of the garlic. After seasoning to taste, sift over the finely cut parsley; cover the whole with the rest of the crushed biscuits and bake in a moderately hot oven. The baking should be closely watched, and every ten minutes the surface must be dampened with a little water. Serve hot, with lemon.

BROILED FISH.List of Fish Suitable for Broiling.AnchoviesGraylingScubsBassHakeShadBlue FishHalibutSqueleaguesButter FishMackerelSword FishFloundersMullet, RedWhitingSalmon

7. BROILED FISH.[BALUCK SCARA.]

Ingredients: Fish ................................................. 2 pounds. Butter ...................................... 1/2 tablespoonful. Lemon ....................................................... 1. Parsley ............................................. 1/2 bunch. Salt, to taste.

Method:

Cleanse the fish properly--small ones, whole and large ones, in slices convenient to serve, or split in two parts, from head to tail--then rub each piece with salt, inside and out, and leave aside for two hours before broiling. When ready to broil, wash and dry each slice, coat with butter, and broil both sides on a gridiron over or in front of a moderate fire. Serve on lettuce leaves, and garnish with parsley, sliced lemons and red radishes.

Either one of the following sauces, suitable for broiled fish, may be served with the above, if desired:

Sauce A: Pour olive oil over the broiled fish, and squeeze lemon separately on it or beat the two together.

Sauce B: Mix well two tablespoonfuls of olive oil with the juice of two lemons and yolks of two hard boiled eggs, also one-half bunch of parsley, very finely cut.

Sauce C: Boil one-half cupful of water with a little salt, then take it away from the fire and blend with--gradually beating into it--two tablespoonfuls of olive oil and the juice of two lemons.

8. "MY HUSBAND'S" FAVORITE BROILED FISH.["CODJAM BEYENDI" BALUCK SCARA.]

Ingredients: Blue Fish or Bass ....................................... 2 pounds. Onion .................................................. 1, medium. Parsley ................................................ 1/2 bunch. Vinegar .......................................... 1 tablespoonful. Plain Water ........................................... 1/2 cupful. Lemons ......................................................... 2. Olive Oil ........................................ 1 tablespoonful. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Cleanse the fish properly, cut in pieces convenient for serving, and lay aside after rubbing with salt, two hours before broiling. When ready wash and dry each piece with cloth, and, after dipping lightly into flour, broil on both sides on a grid-iron over moderate fire. Then chop the onion very fine and lay in a pan; arrange over this the broiled pieces of the fish; sprinkle the finely cut parsley on top, and after pouring the vinegar and the water over the whole, simmer on moderate fire until all the water is evaporated. Serve hot with lemon and olive oil, to taste.

9. GRILLED FISH ON SKEWERS.[BALUCK SHISH KEBAB.]

Ingredients: Fish ...................................................... 2 pounds. White Wine ................................................ 1 cupful. Butter ........................................... 1/2 tablespoonful. Lemon ............................................................ 1. Olive Oil .......................................... 1 tablespoonful. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Cleanse the fish properly and cut in walnut-size squares in such way as to have skin left on one side of each piece, if possible. Season this with salt and pepper and leave in the wine for two hours. Then arrange the pieces on skewers (8 to 10 on each), piercing them through the skin side (the pieces without skin should be placed between those with skin). The deliciousness of this Kebabwill be enhanced by placing laurel leaves between the fish pieces or by burning them on the fire beneath the skewers, at the time of broiling. When done, the fish pieces on the skewers should be slightly rubbed with butter and broiled over the fire until well done. Serve hot over green leaves and with lemon and olive oil, to taste.

This Baluck Shish-Kebab may also be serve with either of the sauces described in Style No. 9 under this chapter.

FRIED FISH.List of Fish Suitable for Frying.AnchoviesGudgeonsPollackBassHaddockScubsBlue FishHakeShadButter FishHalibutSkateCarpLingSmeltsCodMackerelSolesEelMullet, RedSqueleaguesFlat FishPerchSword FishFloundersPikeTroutGraylingPlaiceWhiting

10. FRIED FISH.[BALUCK TAVA.]

Ingredients: Fish ..................................................... 2 pounds. Flour .................................................... 1 cupful. Eggs ............................................................ 2. Butter (or Olive Oil) .................. 2 tablespoonfuls (or more). Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Cleanse the fish properly, wash and dry well, and cut into pieces convenient for serving. Season with salt, to taste. This done, the pieces may either be dipped into flour (finely crushed biscuit will also serve the purpose) or in a medium thick batter made of flour and plain water blended with the eggs. Then fry in plenty of hot butter--olive oil preferred--until both sides are well browned. When serving, garnish with parsley and sliced lemons.

Note that fish frying should be started on a slow, but finished on a strong, fire. This method will help to fry the fish thoroughly, and at the same time make it very crisp.

11. "BAKALIARO" FRIED.[A Favorite Grecian Dish of Dried Fish.]

Ingredients: Dried Fish ........................... 1 pound, of Smoked haddock. Olive Oil ...................................... 3 tablespoonfuls. Flour ........................................... 1 tablespoonful. Eggs .......................................................... 2. Garlic ........................................ 1 head, the juice. Vinegar ........................................ 2 tablespoonfuls.

Method:

Cut the dried fish into pieces suitable for serving and soak in plain water over night. When ready, boil it in fresh water for ten to fifteen minutes, and take the skin off. Also wash the pieces clean of salt, if any remains. Then make a thin batter of the flour and the eggs. Dip the fish into this and fry in the olive oil until rosy in color.

This dish may be served as it is, with a vegetable salad, but the Greeks prefer it with a sauce made of the juice of garlic mixed with vinegar, in a desirable proportion.

BOILED FISH.List of Fish Suitable for Boiling.BassHalibutSkateBlue FishLampreySolesBreamMackerelSqueleaguesButter FishPikeSturgeonCarpPollackSword FishEelSalmonTroutFoundersScubsTurbotHaddockShadWeak FishHakeWhiting

12. BROILED FISH. Armenian Style.[ERMENI BALUCK TIRIT.]

Ingredients: Fish .................................................. 2 pounds. Eggs ......................................................... 3. Lemons ....................................................... 2. Butter ........................................ 2 tablespoonfuls. Parsley ................................................ 1 bunch. Bread ............................................ 6 to 8 slices. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Cleanse the fish properly and leave in salt for one to two hours. When ready, wash it well and boil in plain water--barely covering it--until nearly done. Then fry the bread slices in butter, on both sides, and arrange side by side in a deep, flat pan. This done, take the water in which the fish was boiled, and mix with it the beaten eggs and the juice of the lemons, also add the very finely cut parsley, and with one-half of this mixture moisten the fried bread in the pan. Over this lay the boiled fish and pour over the rest of the mixture. Now it is ready to simmer on very slow fire, until well done. Serve when hot.

13. BOILED FISH. Another Style.[BALUCK HASHLAMA.]

Ingredients: Fish ..................................................... 2 pounds. Garlic ....................................... 1 head, bulbs peeled. Olive Oil ........................................ 2 tablespoonfuls. Wine ................................................... 1/2 cupful. Plain Water ............................................ 1/2 cupful. Lemons .......................................................... 2. Parsley ................................................... 1 bunch. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Cleanse the fish properly, leave in salt for one to two hours, then wash and dry with a cloth. This ready, crush the garlic and fry it in the olive oil in a deep pan. Over this lay the fish and, afteradding the water, the wine, the juice of the lemons and the parsley--well chopped--season to taste and boil over moderate fire. Serve hot.

14. BOILED FISH WITH MAYONNAISE.[BALUCK HASHLAMA TERBIEHLI.]

Ingredients: Fish ..................................................... 2 pounds. Parsley ................................................. 2 bunches. Eggs ............................................................ 3. Lemons .......................................................... 2. Olive Oil ........................................ 2 tablespoonfuls. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Cleanse the fish properly, and lay aside from one to two hours, then wash well and boil over moderate fire in water that barely covers it. When done, lay the fish on lettuce leaves on a platter and serve with mayonnaise made in the following manner:

Cut the parsley very fine and press well, then combine with the yolks of the eggs, the olive oil, the juice of the lemons, and salt and pepper.

15. STUFFED MACKEREL.[ISOUMERUE DOLMA.]

Ingredients: Mackerel ................................................... 6, small. Olive Oil .......................................... 3 tablespoonfuls. Dry Onions ................................................ 5, medium. Lemon ............................................................. 1. Eggs .............................................................. 2. Parsley ..................................................... 1 bunch. Curry ....................................................... 1 pinch. Flour .............................................. 2 tablespoonfuls. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Clean the fish properly, put in hot water for ten to fifteen minutes to cause them to become slack; then cut off the heads and break the back-bones at the tail. After rolling them on a board under the palm of the hand, pull the backbones out very carefully through the neck ends, then wash, ready for stuffing. This done, prepare the following stuffing:

Chop the onions and fry them nearly brown in part of the olive oil, then add the parsley--finely cut--the curry, the salt and pepper to taste. With this mixture stuff each fish, and after dipping them in a batter made of the beaten eggs andthe flour (finely crushed biscuits will serve the purpose) fry in plenty of hot olive oil. Serve hot, garnished with greens and lemon.

16. STUFFED MACKEREL. Another Style.[ISOUMERUE DOLMA]

Ingredients: Mackerel .................................................. 6, small. Dry Onions ............................................... 4, medium. Green Onions ..................................................... 6. Lemon ............................................................ 1. Parsley .................................................... 1 bunch. Butter ............................................ 2 tablespoonfuls. Royal Paper ............................................... 6 pieces. Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

After preparing the mackerel for stuffing according to directions given in the preceding recipe, No. 14, make the following mixture ready for stuffing:

Chop the dry and green onions well, also the parsley, and mix with the butter, the juice of the lemon and salt and pepper to taste. With this stuff the fish and wrap them in oiled paper (Royal Paper) which should be cut suitably--the endsfolded in after wrapping. When all is ready, rub a little more oil over the wrapping and bake on a gridiron over a mild fire.

Serve hot, with lemon.

17. FISH CROQUETTES. Oriental Style.[BALUCK KEOFTEH.]

Ingredients: Fish ........................................................ 2 pounds. Eggs ............................................................... 3. Parsley ...................................................... 1 bunch. Biscuits ........................................... 10 or 12, crushed. Butter (or Olive Oil) ..................... 2 tablespoonfuls (or more). Salt and pepper, to taste.

Method:

Clean the fish properly and boil in plain water until nearly done, then mince well and mix with the eggs. Add the parsley well chopped, and season to taste; after putting it into forefinger shapes and sizes or into egg-sized pieces, either in round or flat form, dip in the finely crushed biscuits and fry in plenty of hot butter or olive oil.

Dish out these Keofteh on lettuce and garnish with green mint, parsley or sliced lemons, serve with either of the sauces described in Style No. 7 in this chapter.

PICKLED AND SALTED FISH.List of Fish Suitable for Pickling and Salting.AnchoviesMackerelSword FishBlue FishMullet, RedTroutHerringsSalmon

18. SALTED FISH.[TCHEREZ BALUCK.]

Ingredients: Fish .................................................. 5 pounds. Salt .................................................. 5 pounds. Garlic .................................................. 1 head.

Method:

Cut off the head and tail, clean properly, split in two, lengthwise, take out the backbone and slice pieces of about one inch in thickness in such a way as to leave each piece with skin on one side. Salt all the pieces thickly and leave for twenty-four hours, after which time they should be put in a small wooden keg and covered with a cloth. After ten to fifteen days, the fish may be considered ready for serving as a relish.

It is well to rub the juice of one head or more pressed garlic over the slices, when they are left in the salt at the beginning.

19. PICKLED FISH.[TOURSHOU BALUCK.]

Ingredients: Fish .................................................... 5 pounds. Salt .................................................... 5 pounds.

Method:

Cut the head off of the fish and salt them heavily, leaving them in a basket for twenty-four hours. Then take and shake them one by one, and arrange closely in a small keg, one alongside of another, salting each row. This done, place a fitting board over the fish, and on top of this a heavy weight--by this means causing the oil in the fish to be pressed out. This oil must be absorbed and removed with the aid of cotton, every day or so, until there is no more given out.

After ten to fifteen days the fish may be considered ready for serving as a relish.

20. PICKLED FISH. Another Style.[SALAMOUR BALUCK.] "Palamoud."

Ingredients: Spanish Mackerel ........................................ 5 pounds. Salt .................................................... 5 pounds.

Method:

Cleanse the mackerel properly, cut the heads off and slice into round pieces of two-inch thickness and with the aid of a wire take out the marrow in the backbone. This done, wash each piece well and, after dipping in salt, place in a small keg side by side. Salt each row lightly and arrange the next row on the top of the first, and so on. Then place a fitting board over the fish and cause it to be pressed down with the aid of a heavy weight. In a few days oil and water is to be seen coming out of the fish slices. This should be absorbed and removed with cotton, until it discharges no more.