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<cookbook type="general" class1="foodandnonfood" region="general"
 bookID="1876pcdg"><meta><dcTitle>Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving. A
Treatise Containing Practical Instructions in Cooking; in the Combination and
Serving of Dishes; and in the Fashionable Modes of Entertaining at Breakfast,
Lunch, and Dinner.</dcTitle><dcCreator>Henderson, Mary
Foote</dcCreator><dcSubject>Cookery,
American.</dcSubject><dcDescription>Setting the Table and Serving the Dinner.
The Dinner Party. Cooking as an Accomplishment. Breakfast. Lunch. Gentlemen's
Suppers. Evening Parties. Something about Economy. Directions and Explanations.
Cooking Utensils. Bread, and Breakfast Cakes. Tea. Coffee. Chocolate. Cocoa.
Soup. Fish. Shell-fish. Sauces. Beef. Veal. Sweet-breads. Mutton. Lamb. Pork.
Poultry. Geese, Ducks, and Game. Vegetables. Shells, or Coquilles. Potting.
Macaroni. Eggs. Salads. Fritters. Pastry. Canning. Preserves. Pickles and
Catchups. Cheese. Sweet Sauces for Puddings. Puddings and Custards. Bavarian
Creams. Desserts of Rice. Wine Jellies. Cake. Candies. Ices. Cookery for the
Sick. Some Dishes for "Baby". How to Serve Fruits. Beverages. Suitable
Combination of Dishes. Serving of Wines. To Prepare Company Dinners. English
and French Glossary. General Index.</dcDescription><dcPublisher>New York:
Harper &#38; Brothers</dcPublisher><dcContributor>Electronic edition created by
Digital &#38; Multimedia Center, Michigan State University Libraries, East
Lansing, Michigan, 2002-2003.</dcContributor><dcContributor>Supplementary
material by Jan Longone, Anne-Marie Rachman, Peter Berg, Yvonne Lockwood, and
Val
Berryman</dcContributor><dcDate>1876</dcDate><dcType>Text</dcType><dcFormat>xml-external-parsed-entity</dcFormat><dcFormat>gif</dcFormat><dcFormat>quicktime</dcFormat><dcIdentifier>http://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/practicalcooking/pcdg.xml</dcIdentifier><dcSource>OCLC
3728496</dcSource><dcLanguage>en</dcLanguage><dcRelation>Digitized as part of
"Feeding America: The Historic American Cookbook Project." Michigan State
University Libraries, East Lansing, Michigan, 2002-2003.
http://digital.lib.msu.edu/cookbooks/</dcRelation><dcCoverage>United
States</dcCoverage><dcCoverage>Nineteenth century</dcCoverage><dcRights>The
book digitized here was published in the United States before 1923 and is in
the public domain according to U.S. copyright law. The digital version and
supplementary materials are made available for all educational
uses.</dcRights></meta><front><div type="frontcover">
<pb n="front cover" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=1"/><illustration><description>An attractive
arrangement of food-filled platters, set on a table in front of a standard
place setting.</description></illustration></div><div type="other">
<pb n="blank" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=2"/></div><div type="other">
<pb n="NONE OF THE ABOVE" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=3"/><ednote>Handwritten
inscription</ednote>
<p>Respectfully presented to the best of Cooks.<lb/>Mrs. 
<unclear>Anna M. Standish</unclear><lb/>by her 
<unclear>friend</unclear><lb/>W.L.P.<lb/>May 1st 1878.</p></div><div
type="other"><pb n="blank" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=4"/><pb n="blank" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=5"/>
<pb n="blank" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=6"/><pb n="blank"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=7"/></div><div type="illustration">
<pb n="illustration" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=8"/><illustration><caption>Table set for
Serving from the Side.</caption><description>A diagram of a round table set for
six, with five dishes arranged in the
middle.</description></illustration></div><div type="illustration">
<pb n="illustration" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=9"/><illustration><caption>Table set for
Serving on the Table.</caption><description>A diagram of a round table set for
six, with five main dishes and four side dishes arranged in the middle of the
table. A large oval platter, some knives for carving, and a stack of plates are
placed in front of the place setting nearest the
bottom.</description></illustration></div><div type="other">
<pb n="blank" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=10"/></div><div type="titlepage">
<pb n="title page" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=11"/><doctitle align="center">PRACTICAL
COOKING<lb/>AND<lb/>DINNER GIVING.<lb/><lb/>A TREATISE CONTAINING<lb/>PRACTICAL
INSTRUCTION IN COOKING; IN THE COM-<lb/>BINATION AND SERVING OF DISHES;
AND<lb/>IN THE FASHIONABLE MODES OF EN-<lb/>TERTAINING AT BREAKFAST,<lb/>LUNCH,
AND DINNER.</doctitle><docauthor align="center">By MRS. MARY F.
HENDERSON.</docauthor>
<p align="center" rend="italic">ILLUSTRATED.</p><illustration><description>A
small oval-shaped seal, in the middle of which is an illustration of a hand
passing a torch to another hand.</description></illustration><docimprint
align="center">NEW YORK:<lb/>HARPER &#38; BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,<lb/>FRANKLIN
SQUARE.<lb/>1877.</docimprint></div><div type="copyrightstmt">
<pb n="copyright statement" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=12"/>
<p align="center">Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876,
by<lb/>HARPER &#38; BROTHERS,<lb/>In the Office of the Librarian of Congress,
at Washington.</p></div><div type="dedication">
<pb n="dedication" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=13"/>
<p align="center">TO MY FRIEND<lb/>MRS. ELLEN EWING SHERMAN,<lb/>A LADY WHO
STUDIES THE COMFORTS OF HER HOUSEHOLD,<lb/>THESE RECEIPTS ARE
AFFECTIONATELY<lb/><emph rend="ornate">Dedicated.</emph></p></div><div
type="other"><pb n="blank" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=14"/></div><div type="preface">
<pb n="preface" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=15"/><hd align="center" rend="bold">PREFACE.</hd>
<p>THE aim of this book is to indicate how to serve dishes, and to entertain
company at breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as to give cooking receipts.
Too many receipts are avoided, although quite enough are furnished for any
practical cook-book. There are generally only two or three really good modes of
cooking a material, and one becomes bewildered and discouraged in trying to
select and practice from books which contain often from a thousand to three
thousand receipts.</p>
<p>No claim is laid to originality. "Receipts which have not stood the test of
time and experience are of but little worth." The author has willingly availed
herself of the labors of others, and, having carefully compared existing
works--adding here and subtracting there, as experience dictated--and having
also pursued courses of study with cooking teachers in America and in Europe,
she hopes that she has produced a simple and practical book, which will enable
a family to live well and in good style, and, at the same time, with reasonable
economy.</p>
<p>The absence from previous publications of reliable
<pb n="preface" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=16"/> information as to the manner of serving
meals has been noticed. Fortunately, the fashionable mode is one calculated to
give the least anxiety and trouble to a hostess.</p>
<p>Care has been taken to show how it is possible with moderate means to keep a
hospitable table, leaving each reader for herself to consider the manifold
advantages of making home, so far as good living is concerned, comfortable and
happy.</p>
<p align="right">M. F. H.</p>
<p size="smaller">ST. LOUIS, 1876.</p></div><div type="contents">
<pb n="table of contents" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=17"/><hd align="center"
size="larger">CONTENTS.</hd><list><item align="right">PAGE</item><item>SETTING
THE TABLE AND SERVING THE DINNER..........................<ref
target="pcdg019.gif">13</ref></item><item>THE DINNER
PARTY..................................................<ref
target="pcdg033.gif">27</ref></item><item>COOKING AS AN
ACCOMPLISHMENT......................................<ref
target="pcdg036.gif">30</ref></item><item>BREAKFAST.........................................................<ref
target="pcdg039.gif">33</ref></item><item>LUNCH.............................................................<ref
target="pcdg042.gif">36</ref></item><item>GENTLEMEN'S
SUPPERS...............................................<ref
target="pcdg045.gif">39</ref></item><item>EVENING
PARTIES...................................................<ref
target="pcdg046.gif">40</ref></item><item>SOMETHING ABOUT
ECONOMY...........................................<ref
target="pcdg046.gif">40</ref></item><item>DIRECTIONS AND
EXPLANATIONS.......................................<ref
target="pcdg049.gif">43</ref></item><item>COOKING
UTEXSILS..................................................<ref
target="pcdg057.gif">51</ref></item><item>BREAD, AND BREAKFAST
CAKES........................................<ref
target="pcdg069.gif">63</ref></item><item>TEA...............................................................<ref
target="pcdg082.gif">76</ref></item><item>COFFEE............................................................<ref
target="pcdg082.gif">76</ref></item><item>CHOCOLATE.........................................................<ref
target="pcdg084.gif">78</ref></item><item>COCOA.............................................................<ref
target="pcdg084.gif">78</ref></item><item>SOUP..............................................................<ref
target="pcdg084.gif">78</ref></item><item>FISH..............................................................<ref
target="pcdg105.gif">99</ref></item><item>SHELL-FISH.......................................................<ref
target="pcdg119.gif">113</ref></item><item>SAUCES...........................................................<ref
target="pcdg125.gif">119</ref></item><item>BEEF.............................................................<ref
target="pcdg135.gif">129</ref></item><item>VEAL.............................................................<ref
target="pcdg152.gif">146</ref></item><item>SWEET-BREADS.....................................................<ref
target="pcdg158.gif">152</ref></item><item>MUTTON...........................................................<ref
target="pcdg161.gif">155</ref></item><item>LAMB.............................................................<ref
target="pcdg165.gif">159</ref></item><item>PORK.............................................................<ref
target="pcdg166.gif">160</ref></item><item>POULTRY..........................................................<ref
target="pcdg172.gif">166</ref></item><item>GEESE, DUCKS, AND
GAME...........................................<ref
target="pcdg186.gif">180</ref></item><item>VEGETABLES.......................................................<ref
target="pcdg196.gif">190</ref></item><item>SHELLS, OR
COQUILLS..............................................<ref
target="pcdg212.gif">206</ref></item><item>POTTING..........................................................<ref
target="pcdg214.gif">208</ref></item><item>MACARONI.........................................................<ref
target="pcdg215.gif">209</ref></item><item>EGGS.............................................................<ref
target="pcdg218.gif">212</ref></item><item>SALADS...........................................................<ref
target="pcdg225.gif">219</ref></item>
<pb n="table of contents" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=18"/><item
align="right">PAGE</item><item>FRITTERS.........................................................<ref
target="pcdg235.gif">229</ref></item><item>PASTRY...........................................................<ref
target="pcdg238.gif">232</ref></item><item>CANNING..........................................................<ref
target="pcdg250.gif">244</ref></item><item>PRESERVES........................................................<ref
target="pcdg254.gif">248</ref></item><item>PICKLES AND
CATCHUPS.............................................<ref
target="pcdg263.gif">257</ref></item><item>CHEESE...........................................................<ref
target="pcdg268.gif">262</ref></item><item>SWEET SAUCES FOR
PUDDINGS........................................<ref
target="pcdg272.gif">266</ref></item><item>PUDDINGS AND
CUSTARDS............................................<ref
target="pcdg275.gif">269</ref></item><item>BAVARIAN
CREAMS..................................................<ref
target="pcdg288.gif">282</ref></item><item>DESSERTS OF
RICE.................................................<ref
target="pcdg292.gif">286</ref></item><item>WINE
JELLIES.....................................................<ref
target="pcdg296.gif">290</ref></item><item>CAKE.............................................................<ref
target="pcdg300.gif">294</ref></item><item>CANDIES..........................................................<ref
target="pcdg311.gif">305</ref></item><item>ICES.............................................................<ref
target="pcdg312.gif">306</ref></item><item>COOKERY FOR THE
SICK.............................................<ref
target="pcdg321.gif">315</ref></item><item>SOME DISHES FOR
"BABY"...........................................<ref
target="pcdg340.gif">334</ref></item><item>HOW TO SERVE
FRUITS..............................................<ref
target="pcdg342.gif">336</ref></item><item>BEVERAGES........................................................<ref
target="pcdg345.gif">339</ref></item><item>SUITABLE COMBINATION OF
DISHES...................................<ref
target="pcdg348.gif">342</ref></item><item>SERVING OF
WINES.................................................<ref
target="pcdg351.gif">345</ref></item><item>TO PREPARE COMPANY
DINNERS.......................................<ref
target="pcdg355.gif">349</ref></item><lb/><item>ENGLISH AND FRENCH
GLOSSARY......................................<ref
target="pcdg365.gif">359</ref></item><lb/><item>GENERAL
INDEX....................................................<ref
target="pcdg371.gif">365</ref></item></list></div></front><body>
<pb n="NONE OF THE ABOVE" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=19"/><hd align="center">PRACTICAL
COOKING,<lb/>AND<lb/>DINNER GIVING.</hd><chapter class1="etiquette"><hd
align="center">SETTING THE TABLE AND SERVING THE DINNER.</hd>
<p>AN animated controversy for a long time existed as to the best mode of
serving a dinner. Two distinct and clearly defined styles, known as the English
and Russian, each having its advantages and disadvantages, were the subject of
contention. It is perhaps fortunate that a compromise between them has been so
generally adopted by the fashionable classes in England, France, and America as
to constitute a new style, which supersedes, in a measure, the other two.</p>
<p>In serving a dinner 
<emph rend="italic">&#225; la Russe,</emph> the table is decorated by placing
the dessert in a tasteful manner around a centre-piece of flowers. This
furnishes a happy mode of gratifying other senses than that of taste; for while
the appetite is being satisfied, the flowers exhale their fragrance, and give
to the eye what never fails to please the refined and cultivated guest.</p>
<p>In this style the dishes are brought to the table already carved, and ready
for serving, thus depriving the cook of the power to display his decorative
art, and the host of his skill in carving. Each dish is served as a separate
course, only one vegetable being allowed for a course, unless used merely for
the purpose of garnishing.</p>
<p>The English mode is to set the whole of each course, often containing many
dishes, at once upon the table. Such dishes<pb n="14" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=20"/> as
require carving, after having been once placed on the dinner-table, are removed
to a side-table, and there carved by an expert servant. Serving several dishes
at one time, of course, impairs the quality of many, on account of the
impossibility of keeping them hot. This might, in fact, render some dishes
quite worthless.</p>
<p>And now, before giving the details of serving a dinner on the newer
compromise plan, I will describe the "setting" or arranging of the table, which
may be advantageously adopted, whatever the mode of serving.</p>
<p>In the first place, a round table five feet in diameter is the best
calculated to show off a dinner. If of this size, it may be decorated to great
advantage, and conveniently used for six or eight persons, without
enlargement.</p>
<p>Put a thick <implement>baize</implement> under the table-cloth. This is
quite indispensable. It prevents noise, and the finest and handsomest
table-linen looks comparatively thin and sleazy on a bare table.</p>
<p>Do not put starch in the napkins, as it renders them stiff and disagreeable,
and only a very little in the table-cloth. They should be thick enough, and, at
the same time, of fine enough texture, to have firmness without starch. Too
much can not be said as to the pleasant effect of a dinner, when the
table-linen is of spotless purity, and the dishes and silver are perfectly
bright.</p>
<p>Although many ornaments may be used in decorating the table, yet nothing is
so pretty and so indicative of a refined taste as flowers. If you have no 
<implement rend="italic">&#233;pergne</implement> for them, use a 
<implement rend="italic">compotier</implement> or raised dish, with a plate
upon the top, to hold cut flowers; or place flower-pots with blossoming plants
on the table. A net-work of wire, painted green, or of wood or crochet work,
may be used to conceal the roughness of the flower-pot. A still prettier
arrangement is to set the pot in a 
<emph rend="italic">jardini&#232;re</emph> vase.</p>
<p>At a dinner party, place a little bouquet by the side of the plate of each
lady, in a small glass or silver <implement>bouquet-holder.</implement> At the
gentlemen's plates put a little bunch of three or four flowers, called a 
<emph rend="italic">boutonnt&#232;re;</emph> in the folds of the napkin. As
<pb n="15" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=21"/> soon as the gentlemen are seated at table, they
may attach them to the left lapel of the coat.</p>
<p>Place the dessert in two or four fancy 
<implement>dessert-dishes</implement>around the centre-piece, which,
by-the-way, should not be high enough to obstruct the view of persons sitting
at opposite sides of the table. The dessert will consist of fruits, fresh or
candied, preserved ginger, or preserves of any kind, fancy cakes, candies,
nuts, raisins, etc.</p>
<p>Put as many knives, forks, and spoons by the side of the plate of each
person as will be necessary to use in all the different courses. Place the
knives and spoons on the right side, and the forks on the left side, of the
plates. This saves the trouble of replacing a knife and fork or spoon as each
course is brought on. Many prefer the latter arrangement, as they object to the
appearance of so many knives, etc., by the sides of a plate. This is, of
course, a matter of taste. I concede the preferable appearance of the latter
plan, but confess a great liking for any arrangement which saves extra work and
confusion.</p>
<p>Place the napkin, neatly folded, on the plate, with a piece of bread an inch
thick, and three inches long, or a small cold bread roll, in the folds or on
the top of the napkin.</p>
<p>Put a glass for water, and as many wine-glasses as are necessary at each
plate. Fill the water-glass just before the dinner is announced, unless
caraffes are used. These are kept on the table all the time, well filled with
water, one caraffe being sufficient for two or three persons. All the wine
intended to be served decanted should be placed on the table, conveniently
arranged at different points.</p>
<p>At opposite sides of the table place <implement>salt and pepper
stands,</implement> together with the different fancy spoons, crossed by their
side, which may be necessary at private dinners, for serving dishes.</p>
<p>Select as many plates as will be necessary for all the different courses.
Those intended for cold dishes, such as salad, dessert, etc., place on the
sideboard, or at any convenient place. Have those plates intended for dessert
already prepared, with a <implement>finger-bowl</implement> on each plate. The 
<implement>finger-glasses</implement> should be half filled with water, with a
slice of lemon in each, or a geranium<pb n="16" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=22"/> leaf and one
flower, or a little 
<emph rend="italic">boutonni&#232;re:</emph> a sprig of lemon-verbena is
pretty, and leaves a pleasant odor on the fingers after pressing it in the
bowl. In Paris, the water is generally warm, and scented with peppermint.</p>
<p>Some place folded <implement>fruit-napkins</implement> under each 
<implement>finger-bowl;</implement> others have little fancy net-work mats,
made of thread or crochet cotton, which are intended to protect handsome
painted <implement>dessert-plates</implement> from scratches which the 
<implement>finger-bowls</implement> might possibly make.</p>
<p>The warm dishes--not 
<emph rend="italic">hot</emph> dishes--keep in a tin closet or on the top shelf
of the range until the moment of serving. A plate of bread should also be on
the sideboard.</p>
<p>Place the <implement>soup-tureen</implement> (with soup that has been
brought to the boiling-point just before serving) and the 
<implement>soup-plates</implement> before the seat of the hostess.</p>
<p>Dinner being now ready, it should be announced by the butler or dinning-room
maid. Never ring a bell for a meal. Bells do very well for country inns and
steamboats, but in private houses the 
<emph rend="italic">m&#233;nage</emph> should be conducted with as little
noise as possible.</p>
<p>With these preliminaries, one can see that it requires very little trouble
to serve the dinner. There should be no confusion or anxiety about it. It is a
simple routine. Each dish is served as a separate course. The butler first
places the pile of plates necessary for the course before the host or hostess.
He next sets the dish to be served before the host or hostess, just beyond the
pile of plates. The soup, salad, and dessert should be placed invariably before
the hostess, and every other dish before the host. As each plate is ready, the
host puts it upon the small <implement>salver</implement> held by the butler,
who then with his own hand places this and the other plates in a similar manner
on the table before each of the guests. If a second dish is served in the
course, the butler, putting in it a spoon, presents it on the left side of each
person, allowing him to help himself. As soon as any one has finished with his
plate, the butler should remove it immediately, without waiting for others to
finish. This would take too much time. When all the plates are removed, the
butler should bring on the next course. It is not necessary to use
<pb n="17" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=23"/> the <implement>crumb-scraper</implement> to clean
the cloth until just before the dessert is served. He should proceed in the
same manner to distribute and take off the plates until the dessert is served,
when he can leave the room.</p>
<p>This is little enough every-day ceremony for families of the most moderate
pretensions, and it is also enough for the finest dinner party, with the simple
addition of more waiters, and distribution of the work among them. It is well
that this simple ceremony should be daily observed, for many reasons. The
dishes themselves taste better; moreover, the cook takes more pride, and is
more particular to have his articles well cooked, and to present a better
appearance, when each dish is in the way subjected to a special regard: and is
it not always preferable to have a few well-cooked dishes to many indifferently
and carelessly prepared? At the same time, each dish is in its perfection, hot
from the fire, and ready to be eaten at once; then, again, one has the benefit
of the full flavor of the dish, without mingling it with that of a multiplicity
of others. There is really very little extra work in being absolutely
methodical in every-day living. With his habit, there ceases to be any anxiety
in entertaining. There is nothing more distressing at a dinner company than to
see a hostess ill at ease, or to detect an interchange of nervous glances
between her and the servants. A host and hostess seem insensibly to control the
feelings of all the guests, it matters not how many there may be. In
well-appointed houses, a word is not spoken at the dinner between the hostess
and attendants. What necessity, when the servants are in the daily practice of
their duties?</p>
<p>If one has nothing for dinner but soup, hash, and lettuce, put them on the
table in style: serve them in three courses, and one will imagine it a much
better dinner than if carelessly served.</p>
<p>Let it be remembered that the above is the rule prescribed for every-day
living. With large dinner parties, the plan might be changed, in one respect, 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> in having the dishes, in courses, put on the
table for exhibition, and then taken off, to be carved quickly and delicately
at a side-table by an experienced butler. This gives the host time to entertain
his guests at his ease, instead<pb n="18" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=24"/> of being absorbed
in the fatiguing occupation of carving for twelve or fourteen people.</p>
<p>These rules in France constitute an invariable and daily custom for private
dinners, as well as for those of greater pretensions. Every thing is served
there also as a separate course, even each vegetable, unless used as a garnish.
In America and England this plan is not generally liked, although in both these
countries it is adopted by many. Americans like, at least, one vegetable with
each substantial, a taste, it is to be hoped, that will not be changed by the
dictates of fashion. Then, if dishes are to be carved at a side-table, the
one-vegetable plan causes the placing of the principal dish on the table before
carving to appear more sensible.</p>
<p>When the butler places a dish on the table, and tarries a moment or so for
every one to look at it, if it does not happen to be so very attractive in
appearance the performance seems very absurd; but when, after putting on the
substantial dish, he places a vegetable dish at the other end of the table, his
taking the substantial to carve seems a more rational proceeding.</p>
<p>I would suggest, when there is only one dish for a course, which it to be
taken off the table to be carved, that the dish should be put on first; then,
that the butler should return for the plates, instead of placing the plates on
first, as should be done in all other cases.</p>
<p>At small dinners, I would not have the butler to be carver. It is a graceful
and useful accomplishment for a gentleman to know how to carve well. At small
dinners, where the dishes can not be large, the attendant labor must be light;
and, in this case, does it not seem more hospitable and home-like for the
gentleman to carve himself? Does it not disarm restraint, and mark the only
difference there is between home and hotel dinners?</p>
<p>In "Gastronomie," M. M. believes in a compromise on the carving question. He
say, "There were professional carvers, and this important art was anciently
performed at the sound of music, and with appropriate gesticulations. We wish
our modern gourmands would follow the very good example of Trimalchio
<pb n="19" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=25"/> in this respect, and, if they must have their
viands carved on the sideboard by servants, take care that, like his carvers,
they are trained to his art. We shall take the opportunity of entering our
protest against an innovation which is going too far. That some of the more
bulky pieces, the 
<emph rend="italic">pi&#232;ces de r&#233;sistance,</emph> should be placed
on the sideboard, well and good, though even to this Addison objected, and not
without reason; but that the fish and the game should be both bestowed and
distributed, like rations to paupers, by attendants, who, for the most part,
can not distinguish between the head and the tail of a mullet, the flesh and
fin of a turbot, etc., is enough to disturb the digestion of the most tolerant
gastronome. We must say that we like to see our dinner, especially the fish,
and to see every part of it, in good hands."</p>
<p>Then, again, without paying a high price, one can not secure a waiter who is
a good carver. I am almost inclined to say one must possess the luxury of a
French waiter for carving at the side-table. English waiters are good. The
Irish are generally too awkward. Negroes are too slow. The French are both
graceful and expeditious.</p>
<p>Well, what can be done, then, when one has a dinner party, with no expert
carver, and the dishes are too large for the host to attempt? I would advise in
this case that the dinner should be served from the side. A very great majority
of large and even small dinners are served in this manner.</p>
<p>The table, as usual, is decorated with flowers, fruits, etc., but the
dishes(<emph rend="italic">plats</emph>) are not placed upon it; consequently
the host has no more duty to perform in the serving of the dinner than the
guest. A plate is placed on the table before each person, then the dish,
prettily decorated or neatly carved, if necessary, is presented to the left
side, so that each person may help himself from the dish. When these plates are
taken off, they are replaced by clean ones, and the dish of the next course is
presented in like manner. Many prefer to serve every course from the side, as I
have just indicated; others make an exception of the dessert, which the hostess
may consider a pretty acquisition to the table, while the dish should not be an
awkward one to serve.</p><pb n="20" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=26"/>
<p>Some proper person should be stationed in the kitchen or butler's pantry to
carve and to see that the dishes are properly decorated. If the hostess should
apprehend unskillfulness in carving, the dinner might be composed of chops,
ribs, birds, etc., which require no cutting.</p>
<p>There are several hints about serving the table, which I will now specify
separately, in order to give them the prominence they deserve.</p>
<p>1st. The waiters should be expeditious without seeming to be in a hurry. A
dragging dinner is most tiresome. In France, the dishes and plates seem to be
changed almost by magic. An American senator told me that at a dinner at the
Tuileries, at which he was present, twenty-five courses were served in an hour
and a half. The whole entertainment, with the after-dinner coffee, etc., lasted
three hours. Upon this occasion, a broken dish was never presented to the view
of a guest. One waiter would present a dish, beautifully garnished or
decorated; and if the guest signified assent, a plate with some of the same
kind of food was served him immediately from the broken dish at the
side-table.</p>
<p>Much complaint has been made by persons accustomed to dinners abroad of the
tediousness of those given in Washington and New York, lasting, as they often
do, from three to five hours. It is an absolute affliction to be obliged to sit
for so long a time at table.</p>
<p>2d. Never overload a plate nor oversupply a table. It is a vulgar
hospitality. At a small dinner, no one should hesitate to ask for more, if he
desires it; it would only be considered a flattering tribute to the dish.</p>
<p>At large companies, where there is necessarily a greater variety of dishes,
the most voracious appetite must be satisfied with a little of each. Then, do
not supply more than is absolutely needed; it is a foolish and unfashionable
waste. "Hospitality is not to be measured by the square inch and calculated by
cubic feet of beef or mutton."</p>
<p>At a fashionable dinner party, if there are twelve or fourteen guests, there
should be twelve or fourteen birds, etc., served on the table--one for each
person. If uninvited persons should<pb n="21" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=27"/> call, the
servant could mention at the door that madam has company at dinner. A sensible
person would immediately understand that the general machinery would be upset
by making an appearance. At small or private dinners, it would be, of course,
quite a different thing.</p>
<p>The French understand better than the people of any other nation how to
supply a table. "Their small family dinners are simply gems of perfection.
There is plenty for every person, yet every morsel is eaten. The flowers or
plants are fresh and odoriferous; the linen is a marvel of whiteness; the
dishes are few, but perfect of their kind."</p>
<p>When you invite a person to a family dinner, do not attempt too much. It is
really more elegant to have the dinner appear as if it were an every-day affair
than to impress the guest, by an ostentatious variety, that it is quite an
especial event to ask a friend to dinner. Many Americans are deterred from
entertaining, because they think they can not have company without a vulgar
abundance, which is, of course, as expensive and troublesome as it is coarse
and unrefined.</p>
<p>For reasonable and sensible people, there is no dinner more satisfactory
than one consisting first of a soup, then a fish, garnished with boiled
potatoes, followed by a roast, also garnished with one vegetable; perhaps an 
<emph rend="italic">entr&#233;e,</emph> always a salad, some cheese, and a
dessert. This, well cooked and neatly and quietly served, is a stylish and good
enough dinner for any one, and is within the power of a gentleman or lady of
moderate means to give. "It is the exquisite quality of a dinner or a wine that
pleases us, not the multiplicity of dishes or vintages."</p>
<p>3d. Never attempt a new dish with company--one that you are not entirely
sure of having cooked in the very best manner.</p>
<p>4th. Care must be taken about selecting a company for a dinner party, for
upon this depends the success of the entertainment. Always put the question to
yourself, when making up a dinner party, Why do I ask him or her? And unless
the answer be satisfactory, leave him or her out. Invite them on some other
occasion. If they are not sensible, social, unaffected, and clever people, they
will not only not contribute to the agreeability of the dinner, but will
positively be a serious impediment<pb n="22" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=28"/> to
conversational inspiration and the general feeling of ease. Consequently, one
may consider it a compliment to be invited to a dinner party.</p>
<p>5th. Have the distribution of seats at table so managed, using some tact in
the arrangement, that there need be no confusion, when the guests enter the
dining-room, about their being seated. If the guest of honor be a lady, place
her at the right of the host; if a gentleman, at the right of the hostess.</p>
<p>If the dinner company be so large that the hostess can not easily place her
guests without confusion, have a little card on each plate bearing the name of
the person who is to occupy the place. Plain cards are well enough; but the
French design (they are designed in this country also) beautiful cards for the
purpose, illustrated with varieties of devices: some are rollicking cherubs
with capricious antics, who present different tempting viands; autumn leaves
and delicate flowers in chromo form pretty surroundings for the names on
others; yet the designs are so various on these and the bill-of-fare cards that
each hostess may seek to find new ones, while frequent dinner-goers may have
interesting collections of these mementoes, which may serve to recall the
occasions in after-years.</p>
<p>6th. If the dinner is intended to be particularly fine, have bills of fare,
one for each person, written on little sheets of paper smoothly cut in half, or
on French bill-of-fare cards, which come for the purpose. If expense is no
object, and you entertain enough to justify it, have cards for your own use
especially engraved. Have your crest, or perhaps a monogram, at the top of the
card, and forms for different courses following, so headed that you have only
to fill out the space with the special dishes for the occasion. I will give the
example of a form. The forms are often seen on the dinner-cards; yet, perhaps,
they are as often omitted, when the bills of fare are written, like those given
at the end of the book.</p>
<p>Bills of fare are generally written in French. It is a pity that our own
rich language is inadequate to the duties of a fashionable bill of fare,
especially when, perhaps, all the guests do not understand the Gallic tongue,
and the bill of fare(<emph rend="italic">menu</emph>) for their accommodation
might as well be written in<pb n="23" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=29"/> Choctaw. I will
arrange a table with French names of dishes for the aid of those preferring the
French bills of fare. I would say that some tact might be displayed in choosing
which language to employ.</p><illustration><description>An illustration of a
menu printed with the following text (in list format): MENU. Diner du 15
F&#233;vrior. Potages. Poissons. Hors-d'&#230;uvres. Relev&#233;s.
Entr&#233;es. R&#244;tis. Entrem&#234;ts. Glaces.
Dessert.</description></illustration>
<p>If you are entertaining a ceremonious company, with tastes for the
frivolities of the world, or, perhaps, foreign embassadors, use unhesitatingly
the French bills of fare; but practical uncles and substantial persons of
learning and wit, who, perhaps, do not appreciate the merits of languages which
they do not understand, might consider you demented to place one of these
effusions before them. I would advise the English bills of fare on these
occasions.</p>
<p>7th. The attendants at table should make no noise. They should wear slippers
or light boots. "Nothing so distinguishes the style of perfectly appointed
houses from vulgar imitations as the quiet, self-possessed movements of the
attendants." No word should be spoken among them during dinner, nor should they
even seem to notice the conversation of the company at table.</p>
<p>8th. The waiter should wear a dress-coat, white vest, black trousers, and
white necktie; the waiting-maid, a neat black alpaca or a clean calico dress,
with a white apron.</p>
<p>9th. Although I would advise these rules to be generally followed, 
<pb n="24" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=30"/> yet it is as pleasant a change to see an
individuality of a characteristic taste displayed in the setting of the table
and the choice of dishes as in the appointments of our houses or in matters of
toilet. At different seasons the table might be changed to wear a more
appropriate garb. It may be solid, rich, and showy, or simple, light, and
fresh.</p>
<p>10th. Aim to have a variety or change in dishes. It is as necessary to the
stomach and to the enjoyment of the table as is change of scene for the mind.
Even large and expensive state dinners become very monotonous when one finds
everywhere the same choice of dishes. Mr. Walker, in his "Original," says: "To
order dinner is a matter of invention and combination. It involves novelty,
simplicity, and taste; whereas, in the generality of dinners, there is no
character but that of routine, according to the season."</p>
<p>11th. Although many fashionable dinners are of from three or four hours'
duration, I think every minute over two hours is a "stately durance vile."
After that time, one can have no appetite; conversation must be forced. It is
preferable to have the dinner a short one than a minute too long. If one rises
from a fine dinner wearied and satiated, the memory of the whole occasion must
be tinged with this last impression.</p>
<p>12th. There is a variety of opinions as to who should be first served at
table. Many of the 
<emph rend="italic">haut monde</emph> insist that the hostess should be first
attended to. Once, when visiting a family with an elegant establishment, who,
with cultivated tastes and years of traveling experience, prided themselves on
their 
<emph rend="italic">savoir faire,</emph> one of the members said, "Yes, if
Queen Victoria were our guest, our sister, who presides at table, should always
be served first." The custom originated in ancient times, when the hospitable
fashion of poisoning was in vogue. Then the guests preferred to see the hostess
partake of each dish before venturing themselves. Poisoning is not now the
order of the day, beyond what is accomplished by rich pastry and plum puddings.
If there be but one attendant, the lady guest sitting at the right of the host
or the oldest lady should be first served. There are certain natural instincts
of propriety which fashion or custom can not regulate. As soon as the second
<pb n="25" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=31"/> person is helped, there should be no further
waiting before eating.</p>
<p>13th. Have chairs of equal height at table. Perhaps every one may know by
experience the trial to his good humor in finding himself perched above or sunk
below the general level.</p>
<p>14th. The selection of china for the table offers an elegant field in which
to display one's taste. The most economical choice for durability is this: put
your extra money in a handsome dessert set, all (except the plates) of which
are displayed on the table all the time during dinner; then select the
remainder of the service in plain white, or white and gilt, china. When any
dish is broken, it can be easily matched and replaced.</p>
<p>A set of china decorated in color to match the color of the dining-room is
exceedingly tasteful. This choice is not an economical one, as it is necessary
to replace broken pieces by having new ones manufactured--an expense quite
equal to the extra trouble required to imitate a dish made in another
country.</p>
<p>By far the most elegant arrangement consists in having different sets of
plates, each set of a different pattern, for every course. Here is an unlimited
field for exquisite taste. Let the meat and <implement>vegetable
dishes</implement> be of plated silver. Let the <implement
rend="italic">&#233;pergne</implement> or centre-peice (holding flowers or
fruit) be of silver, or perhaps it might be preferred of majolica, of bisque,
or of glass. The <implement>majolica ware</implement> is very fashionable now,
and dessert, oyster, and salad sets of it are exceedingly pretty. A set of
majolica plates, imitating pink shells, with a large pink-shell platter, is
very pretty, and appropriate for almost any course. 
<implement>Oyster-plates</implement> in French ware imitate five oyster-shells,
with a miniature cup in the centre for holding the lemon. There are other
patterns of <implement>oyster-plates</implement> in majolica of the most
gorgeous colors, where each rim is concaved in six shells to hold as many
oysters. The harlequin dessert sets are interesting, where every plate is not
only different in design and color, but is a specimen of different kinds of
ware as well. In these sets the Dresden, French, and painted plates of any ware
that suits the fancy are combined.</p>
<p>A set of plates for a course at dinner is unique in the Chinese
<pb n="26" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=32"/> or Japanese patterns. Dessert sets of Bohemian
glass or of cut-glass are a novelty; however, the painted sets seem more
appropriate for the dessert (fruit, etc.), white glass sets are tasteful for
jellies, cold puddings, etc., or what are called the cold 
<emph rend="italic">entrem&#234;ts</emph> served just before the dessert
proper.</p>
<p>But it seems difficult, in entering the Colamores' and other large places of
the kind in New York, to know what to select, there are such myriads of
exquisite plates, table ornaments, and fairy-lands of glass.</p>
<p>I consider the table ornaments in silver much less attractive than those in
fancy ware. There are lovely maidens in bisque, reclining, while they hold
painted oval dishes for a jelly, a Bavarian cream, or for flowers or fruit;
cherub boys in majolica, tugging away with wheelbarrows, which should be loaded
with flowers; antique water-jugs; <implement>cheese-plates</implement> in
Venetian glass; clusters of lilies from mirror bases to hold flowers of 
<emph rend="italic">bonbons;</emph> tripods of dolphins, with great pink
mouths, to hold salt and pepper.</p>
<p>If a lady, with tastes to cultivate in her family, can afford elegancies in
dress, let her retrench in that, and bid farewell to all her ugly and insipid
white china; let wedding presents consist more of these ornaments (which may
serve to decorate any room), and less of silver 
<implement>salt-cellars,</implement> <implement>pepper-stands,</implement> and 
<implement>pickle-forks.</implement></p>
<p>Senator Sumner was a lover of the ceramic art. His table presented a
delightful study to the connoisseur, with its different courses of plates, all
different and 
<emph rend="italic">recherch&#233;</emph> in design. Nothing aroused this
inimitable host at a dinner party from his literacy labors more effectually
than a special announcement to him by Marley of the arrival from Europe of a
new set of quaint and elegant specimens of China ware. He would repair to New
York on the next train.</p>
<p>15th. I will close these suggestions by copying from an English book a
practical drill exercise for serving at table. The dishes are served from the
side-table.</p>
<p>"Let us suppose a table laid for eight persons, dressed in its best; as
attendants, only two persons--a butler and a footman, or one of these, with a
page or neat waiting-maid; and let us<pb n="27" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=33"/> suppose some
one stationed outside the door in the butler's pantry to do nothing but fetch
up, or hand, or carry off dishes, one by one:</p><list align="center"
size="smaller"><item align="center">While guests are being seated, person from
outside brings up soup;</item><item align="center">Footman receives soup at
door;</item><item align="center">Butler serves it out;</item><item
align="center">Footman hands it;</item><item align="center">Both change
plates.</item><item align="center">Footman takes out soup, and receives fish at
door; while butler hands wine;</item><item align="center">Butler serves out
fish;</item><item align="center">Footman hands it (plate in one hand, and sauce
in the other);</item><item
align="center">Both change plates.</item><item align="center">Footman brings
in<emph rend="italic">entr&#233;e,</emph> while butler hands
wine;</item><item align="center">Butler hands 
<emph rend="italic">entr&#233;e;</emph></item><item align="center">Footman
hands vegetables;</item><item align="center">Both change plates,</item><item
align="center">Etc., etc.</item></list>
<p>"The carving of the joint seems the only difficulty. However, it will not
take long for an expert carver to cut eight pieces."</p></chapter><chapter
class1="etiquette"><hd align="center">THE DINNER PARTY.</hd>
<p>IT is very essential, in giving a dinner party, to know precisely how many
guests one is to entertain. It is a serious inconvenience to have any doubt on
this subject. Consequently, it is well to send an invitation, which may be in
the following form:</p><illustration><description>An illustration of an
invitation card printed with the following text: Mrs. Smith requests the
pleasure of Mr. Jones's company at dinner, on Thursday, January 5th, at seven
o'clock. R. S. V. P. 12 New York Avenue, January 2d,
1576.</description></illustration>
<p>The capital letters constitute the initials of four French words, meaning,
"Answer, if you please" (<emph rend="italic">R&#233;pondez s'il vous
plait</emph>). The person thus invited must not fail to reply at once,
<pb n="28" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=34"/> sending a messenger to the door with the note. It
is considered impolite to send it by post.</p>
<p>If the person invited has any doubt about being able to attend the dinner at
the time stated, he should decline the invitation at once. He should be
positive one way or the other, not delaying the question for consideration more
than a day at the utmost. If Mr. Jones should then decline, he might reply as
follows:</p><illustration><description>An illustration of a reply card printed
with the following text: Mr. Jones regrets that he is unable to accept Mrs.
Smith's polite invitation for Thursday evening. 8 Thirty-seventh Street,
January 3d.</description></illustration>
<p>Or,</p><illustration><description>An illustration of a reply card printed
with the following text: Mr. Jones regrets that a previous engagement prevents
his acceptance of Mrs. Smith's polite invitation for Thursday evening.
Thirty-seventh Street, January 3d.</description></illustration>
<p>A prompt and decided answer of this character enables Mrs. Smith to supply
the place with some other person, thereby preventing that most disagreeable
thing, a vacant chair at table.</p>
<p>If the invitation be accepted, Mr. Jones might say in his
note:</p><illustration><description>An illustration of a reply card printed
with the following text: Mr. Jones accepts, with pleasure, Mrs. Smith's
invitation for Thursday evening. Thirty-seventh Street, January
2d.</description></illustration>
<p>The more simple the invitation or reply, the better. Do not attempt any
high-flown or original modes. Originality is most charming on most occasions;
this is not one of them.</p>
<p>In New York, many, I notice, seem to think it elegant to use the French
construction of sentences in formal notes: for instance, they are particular to
say, "the invitation of Mrs. Smith," instead of "Mrs. Smith's invitation;" and
"2d January,"<pb n="29" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=35"/> instead of "January 2d." In writing
in the French language, the French construction of sentences would seem
eminently proper. One might be pardoned for laughing at an English
construction, if ignorance were not the cause. So, when one writes in English,
let the sentences be concise, and according to the rules of the language.</p>
<p>On the appointed day, the guest should endeavor to arrive at the house not
exceeding ten minutes before the time fixed for dinner; and while he avoids a
too early arrival, he should be equally careful about being tardy.</p>
<p>It is enough to disturb the serenity and good temper of the most amiable
hostess during the whole evening for a guest to delay her dinner, impairing it,
of course, to a great extent. She should not be expected to wait over fifteen
minutes for any one. Perhaps it would be as well for her to order dinner ten
minutes after the appointed hour in her invitation, to meet the possible
contingency of delay on the part of some guest.</p>
<p>When the guests are assembled in the drawing-room, if the company be large,
the host or hostess can quietly intimate to the gentleman what ladies they will
respectively accompany to the dining-room. After a few moments of conversation
and introductions, the dinner is to be announced, when the host should offer
his arm to the lady guest of honor, the hostess taking the arm of the gentleman
guest of honor; and now, the host leading the way, all should follow; the
hostess, with her escort, being the last to leave the drawing-room. They should
find their places at table with as little confusion as possible, not sitting
down until the hostess is seated. After dinner is over, the hostess giving the
signal by moving back her chair, all should leave the dining-room. The host may
then invite the gentleman to the smoking-room or library. The ladies should
repair to the drawing-room. A short time thereafter (perhaps in half an hour),
the butler should bring to the drawing-room the tea-service on a 
<implement>salver,</implement> with a <implement>cake-basket</implement> filled
with fancy biscuits, or rather crackers or little cakes.</p>
<p>Placing them on the table, he may then announce to the host that tea is
served. The gentlemen join the ladies; and, after a chat of a few minutes over
the tea, all of the guests may take<pb n="30" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=36"/> their
departure. If the attendant is a waiting-maid, and the tea-service rather
heavy, she might bring two or three cups filled with tea, and a small 
<implement>sugar-bowl</implement> and <implement>cream-pitcher,</implement>also
the <implement>cake-basket,</implement> on a small 
<implement>salver;</implement> and when the cups are passed, return for
more.</p>
<p>I do not like the English fashion, which requires the ladies to retire from
the table, leaving the gentlemen to drink more wine, and smoke. Enough wine is
drunk during dinner. English customs are admirable, generally, and one
naturally inclines to adopt them; but in this instance I do not hesitate to
condemn and reject a custom in which I see no good, but, on the contrary, a
temptation to positive evil. The French reject it; let Americans do the
same.</p></chapter><chapter class1="household"><hd align="center">COOKING AS AN
ACCOMPLISHMENT.</hd>
<p>THE reason why cooking in America is, as a rule, so inferior is not because
American women are less able and apt than the women of France, and not because
the American men do not discuss and appreciate the merits of good cooking and
the pleasure of entertaining friends at their own table; it is merely because
American women seem possessed with the idea that it is not the fashion to know
how to cook; that, as an accomplishment, the art of cooking is not as
ornamental as that of needle-work or piano-playing. I do not undervalue these
last accomplishments. A young lady of 
<emph rend="italic">esprit</emph> should understand them; but she should
understand, also, the accomplishment of cooking. A young lady can scarcely have
too many accomplishments, for they serve to adorn her home, and are attractive
and charming, generally. But of them all--painting, music, fancy work, or
foreign language--is there one more fascinating and useful, or one which argues
more intelligence in its acquisition than the accomplishment of cooking?</p>
<p>What would more delight Adolphus than to discover that his pretty 
<emph rend="italic">fianc&#233;e,</emph> Julia, was an accomplished cook;
that with her dainty fingers she could gracefully dash off a creamy omelet, and
by miraculous man&#230;uvres could produce to his astonished
<pb n="31" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=37"/> view a dozen different kaleidoscopic omelets, 
<emph rend="italic">aux fines herbes, aux hu&#238;tres, aux petits pois, aux
tomates,</emph> etc.; and not only that, but scientific croquettes, mysterious
soups, delicious salads, marvelous sauces, and the hundred and one savory
results of a little artistic skill? Delighted Adolphus--if a sensible man, and
such a woman should have no other than a sensible man--would consider this as
the 
<emph rend="italic">chef-d'&#230;uvre</emph> of all her accomplishments, as he
regarded her the charming assurance of so many future comforts.</p>
<p>From innate coquetry alone the French women appreciate the powers of their
dainty table. Cooking is an art they cultivate. Any of the 
<emph rend="italic">haut monde</emph> are proud to originate a new dish, many
famous ones doing them credit in bearing their names.</p>
<p>One thing is quite evident in America--that the want of this ornamental and
useful information is most deplorable. The inefficiency, in this respect, of
Western and Southern women, brought up under the system of slavery, is somewhat
greater than that of the women of the Northern and Eastern States; however, as
a nation, there is little to praise in this regard in any locality. Professor
Blot endeavored to come to the rescue. Every 
<emph rend="italic">man</emph> applauded his enterprise; yet I can myself
testify to the indifference of the women--his classes for the study of cookery
numbering by units where they should have numbered by hundreds. He soon
discontinued his instructive endeavors, and at last died a poor man.</p>
<p>There is little difficulty abroad in obtaining good cooks at reasonable
prices, who have pursued regular courses of instruction in their trade: not so
in America. Hospitality demands the entertaining of friends at the social
board; yet it is almost impossible to do so in this country in an acceptable
manner, unless the hostess herself not only has a proper idea of the serving of
a table, but of the art of cooking the dishes themselves as well. In some of
the larger cities, satisfactory dinners and trained waiters may be provided at
an enormous cost at the famous restaurants, where the meal may appear home-like
and elegant. But unfortunate is the woman, generally, who wants to do "the
correct thing," and, wishing to entertain at<pb n="32"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=38"/>dinner, relies upon the sense, good taste, and management of
the proprietor of a restaurant. She may confidently rely upon one thing--an
extortionate bill; and, generally, as well, upon a vulgar display, which poorly
imitates the manner of refined private establishments.</p>
<p>However, "living for the world" seems very contemptible in comparison with
the importance of that wholesome, satisfactory, every-day living which so
vitally concerns the health and pleasure of the family circle.</p>
<p>But why waste time in asserting these self-evident facts? They are
acknowledged and proclaimed every day by suffering humanity; yet the difficulty
is not remedied. Is there a remedy, then? Yes. This is a free country, yet Dame
Fashion is the Queen. Make it the fashion, then, that the art and science of
cookery shall be classed among the necessary accomplishments of every
well-educated lady. This is a manifest duty on the part of ladies of influence
and position, even if the object be only for the benefit of the country at
large. Let these ladies be accomplished artists in cookery. The rest will soon
follow. There will be plenty of imitators.</p>
<p>Many ladies of rank in England have written valuable books on cookery, and
on the effects resulting from the want of the knowledge. None wrote better than
Lady Morgan. Speaking of clubs, she says:</p>
<p>"The social want of the times, however, brought its remedy along with it,
and the reaction was astounding.... Then it was that clubs arose--homes of
refuge to destitute celibacy, chapels of ease to discontented husbands. There,
men could dine, like gentlemen and Christians, upon all the 
<emph rend="italic">friandises</emph> of the French kitchen, much cheaper and
far more wholesomely than at their own tables upon the tough, half-sodden
fibres of the national roast and boiled, or on the hazardous resources of hash;
gravy soup, and marrow puddings.</p>
<p>"Moral England gave in. The English 'home'--that temple of the heart, that
centre of all the virtues--was left to the solitary enjoyment of the English
wives.</p>
<p>"To your 
<emph rend="italic">casseroles,</emph> then, women of Britain! Would you, with
a falconer's voice, lure your faithless tassels back again?
<pb n="33" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=39"/> Apply to the practical remedy of your wrongs;
proceed to the reform of your domestic government, and turn your thoughts to
that art which, coming into action every day in the year during the longest
life, includes within its circles the whole philosophy of economy and order,
the preservation of good health, and the tone of good society--and all
peculiarly within your province."</p></chapter><chapter class1="generalfood"
class2="etiquette"><hd align="center">BREAKFAST.</hd>
<p>AFTER a fast of twelve or thirteen hours, the system requires something
substantial as preparation for the labors of the day; consequently, I consider
the American breakfasts more desirable for an active people than those of
France or England.</p>
<p>In France, the first breakfast consists merely of a cup of coffee and a
roll. A second breakfast, at eleven o'clock, is more substantial, dishes being
served which may be eaten with a fork (<emph rend="italic">d&#233;jeuner
&#224; la fourchette</emph>), as a chop with a potato 
<emph rend="italic">souffl&#233;.</emph> No wonder there are 
<emph rend="italic">caf&#233;s</emph> in Paris where American breakfasts are
advertised, for it takes one of our nationality a very short time to become
dissatisfied with this meagre first meal.</p>
<p>In England, breakfast is a very informal meal. After some fatiguing
occasion, if one should desire the luxury of an extra nap, he is not
mercilessly expected at the table simply because it is the breakfast-hour; for
there the breakfast-hour is any time one chances to be ready for it. Gentlemen
and ladies read their papers and letters in the breakfast-room--a practice
which, of course, is more agreeable for guests than convenient for servants.
However, if one can afford it, why not? This habit requires a little different
setting of the table. It is decorated with flowers or plants, and upon it are
placed several kinds of breads, fruits, melons, potted meats, and freshest of
boiled eggs. But the substantial dishes must be served from the sideboard,
where they are kept in silver <implement>chafing-dishes</implement> over 
<implement>spirit-lamps.</implement> As members of the family or guests enter,
the servant helps them each once, then leaves the room. If they have further
wants, they help themselves or ring a bell.</p><pb n="34" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=40"/>
<p>The American breakfast is all placed upon the table, unless oatmeal porridge
should be served as a first course. Changes of plates are also necessary when
cakes requiring sirup or when melons or fruits are served.</p>
<p>Let us now set the American breakfast-table.</p>
<p>The <implement>coffee-urn</implement> and silver service necessary are
placed in a straight line before the hostess. The one or two kinds of
substantials are set before the host; vegetables or 
<emph rend="italic">entr&#233;es</emph> are placed on the sides. Do not have
them askew. It is quite as easy for an attendant to place a dish in a straight
line as in an oblique angle with every other dish on the table.</p>
<p>I advocate the general use of oatmeal porridge for breakfast. Nothing is
more wholesome, and nothing more relished after a little use. If not natural,
the taste should be acquired. It is invaluable for children, and of no less
benefit for persons of mature years. Nearly all the little Scotch and Irish
children are brought up on it. When Queen Victoria first visited Scotland, she
noticed the particularly ruddy and healthy appearance of the children, and,
after inquiry about their diet and habits, became at once a great advocate for
the use of porridge. She used it for her own children, and it was at once
introduced very generally into England. Another of its advantages is that
serving it as a first course enables the cook to prepare many dishes, such as
steaks, omelets, etc., just as the family sit down to breakfast; and when the
porridge is eaten, she is ready with the other dishes "smoking hot."</p>
<p>It would be well if more attention were given to breakfasts than is usually
bestowed. The table might have a fresher look with flowers or a flowering plant
in the centre. The breakfast napery is very pretty now, with colored borders to
suit the color of the room, the table-cloth and napkins matching.</p>
<p>The beefsteaks should be varied, for instance, one morning with a tomato
sauce, another 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la ma&#238;tre d'h&#244;tel,</emph> or with a
brown sauce, or garnished with water-cresses, green pease, fried potatoes,
potato-balls, etc., instead of being always the same beefsteak, too frequently
overcooked or undercooked, and often floating in butter.</p>
<p>Melons, oranges, compotes, any and all kinds of fruits, should
<pb n="35" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=41"/> be served at breakfast. In the season, sliced
tomatoes, with a French or 
<emph rend="italic">Mayonnaise</emph> dressing, is a most refreshing breakfast
dish. A great resource is in the variety of omelets, and with a little
practice, nothing is so easily made. One morning it may be a plain omelet;
another, with macaroni and cheese; another, with fine herbs; another, with
little strips of ham or with oysters. The English receipt on page 148 makes a
pleasant change for a veal cutlet. When chickens are no longer very young, the
receipt on page 175 (deviled chicken), with a Cunard sauce or a white sauce, is
another change. The different arrangements of meat-balls are croquettes, with
tomato, cream, apple, or brown sauces, are delicious when they are freshly and
carefully made.</p>
<p>As there are hundreds of delicious breakfast dishes, which only require a
little attention and interest to understand, how unfortunate it must be for a
man to have a wife who has nothing for breakfast but an alternation of
juiceless beefsteak, greasy and ragged mutton-chops, and swimming hash, with
unwholesome hot breads to make up deficiencies!</p>
<p>Breakfast parties are very fashionable, being less expensive than dinners,
and just as satisfactory to guests. They are served generally about ten
o'clock, although any time from ten to twelve o'clock may be chosen for the
purpose. It seems to me that ten o'clock, or even nine o'clock (it depends upon
the persons invited), is the preferable hours. Guests might prefer to retain
their strength by a repast at home if the breakfast-hour were at twelve
o'clock, and then the fine breakfast would be less appreciated. At breakfast
parties, with the exception of the silver service being on the table all the
time for tea and coffee, the dishes are served in courses precisely as for
dinner.</p>
<p>In England, breakfast parties are perhaps more in favor than lunch parties,
especially among the 
<emph rend="italic">literati.</emph> Macaulay said, when extolling the merits
of breakfast parties as compared with all other entertainments, "Dinner parties
are mere formalities; but you invite a man to breakfast because you want to
see<emph rend="italic">him.</emph>"</p>
<p>There bills of fare are given for breakfast parties, which will show the
order of different courses:</p><pb n="36" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=42"/><section
class1="menus"><hd align="center" rend="italic">Winter Breakfast.</hd><list
size="smaller" align="center"><item align="center">1st Course.--Broiled
sardines on toast, garnished with slices of lemon. Tea, coffee, or
chocolate.</item><item align="center">2d Course.--Larded sweet-breads,
garnished with French pease. Cold French rolls or petits pains.
Sauterne.</item><item align="center">3d Course.--Small fillets or the tender
cuts from porter-house-steaks, served on little square slices of toast, with
mushrooms.</item><item align="center">4th Course.--Fried oysters; breakfast
puffs.</item><item align="center">5th Course.--Fillets of grouse (each fillet
cut in two), on little thin slices of fried mush, garnished with potatoes
&#224; la Parisienne.</item><item align="center">6th Course.--Sliced oranges,
with sugar.</item><item align="center">7th Course.--Waffles, with maple
sirup.</item></list></section><section class1="menus"><hd align="center"
rend="italic">Early Spring Breakfast.</hd><list size="smaller"
align="center"><item align="center">1st Course.--An Havana orange for each
person, dressed on a fork (page 338).</item><item align="center">2d
Course.--Boiled shad, ma&#238;tre d'h&#244;tel sauce; Saratoga potatoes. Tea
or coffee.</item><item align="center">3d Course.--Lamb-chops, tomato sauce.
Ch&#226;teau Yquem.</item><item align="center">4th Course.--Omelet, with green
pease, or garnished with parsley and thin diamonds of ham, or with shrimps,
etc., etc.</item><item align="center">5th Course.--Fillets of beef, garnished
with water-cresses and little round radishes; muffins.</item><item
align="center">6th Course.--Rice pancakes, with maple
sirup.</item></list></section><section class1="menus"><hd align="center"
rend="italic">Summer Breakfast.</hd><list align="center" size="smaller"><item
align="center">1st Course.--Melons.</item><item align="center">2d
Course.--Little fried perch, smelts, or trout, with a sauce Tartare, the dish
garnished with shrimps and olives. Coffee, tea, or chocolate.</item><item align="center">3d
Course.--Young chickens, saut&#233;d, with cream-gravy, surrounded with
potatoes &#224; la neige. Claret.</item><item align="center">4th
Course.--Poached eggs on anchovy-toast.</item><item align="center">5th
Course.--Little fillets of porter-house-steaks, wit tomatoes &#224; la
Mayonnaise.</item><item align="center">6th Course.--Peaches, quartered,
sweetened, and half-frozen.</item></list></section></chapter><chapter
class1="generalfood" class2="etiquette"><hd align="center">LUNCH.</hd>
<p>THIS is more especially a ladies' meal. If one gives a lunch party, ladies
alone are generally invited. It is an informal meal on ordinary occasions, when
every thing is placed upon the table<pb n="37" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=43"/> at once. A
servant remains in the room only long enough to serve the first round of
dishes, then leaves, supposing that confidential conversation may be desired.
Familiar friends often "happen in" to lunch, and are always to be expected.</p>
<p>Some fashionable ladies have the reputation of having every fine
lunches--chops, chickens, oysters, salads, chocolate, and many other good
things being provided; and others, just as fashionable, have nothing but a cup
of tea or chocolate, some thin slices of bread and butter, and cold meat; or,
if of Teutonic taste, nothing but cheese, crackers, and ale, thus reserving the
appetite for dinner.</p>
<p>In entertaining at lunch, the dishes are served in the same manners as for
dinner. Each dish is served as a separate course. It may be placed on the table
before the hostess, if the lunch party is not very large; but it is generally
served from the side. The table is also decorated in the same manner as for
dinner, with a centre-piece of flowers or of fruit, and with various 
<implement rend="italic">compotiers</implement> around the centre, containing
fruits, 
<emph rend="italic">bonbons,</emph> little fancy cakes, Indian or other
preserves, etc. Other ornaments, in Dresden china, <implement>majolica
ware,</implement> Venetian or French glass, etc., filled with flowers, are
often seen. Little dishes of common glass in different shapes, as crosses,
quarter-moons, etc., about an inch high (see cuts, page 58), are also filled
with flowers, and placed at symmetrical distances. As the last-mentioned
decorations are very cheap, every one may indulge in them, and consider that
there are no more beautiful ornaments, after all.</p>
<p>The lunch-table is generally covered with a colored table-cloth.</p>
<p>The principal dishes served are 
<emph rend="italic">pat&#233;s,</emph> croquettes, shell-fish, game,
salads--in fact, all kinds of 
<emph rend="italic">entr&#233;es,</emph> and cold desserts, or I may say
dishes are preferred which do not require carving. 
<emph rend="italic">Bouillon</emph> is generally served as a first course in 
<emph rend="italic">bouillon</emph> cups, which are quite like large
coffee-cups, or coffee or <implement>tea cups</implement> may be used, although
any dinner soup served in <implement>soup-plates</implement> is 
<emph rend="italic">en regle.</emph> A cup of chocolate, with whipped cream on
the top, is often served as an another course.</p>
<p>I will give five bills of fare, reserved from five very nice little lunch
parties:</p><section class1="menus"><pb n="38" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=44"/><hd
align="center"><emph rend="italic">Mrs. Collier's Lunch</emph> (February
2d).</hd><list align="center" size="smaller"><item align="center">Bouillon;
sherry.</item><item align="center">Roast oysters on half-shell;
Sauterne.</item><item align="center">Little vols-au-vent of
oysters.</item><item align="center">Thin scollops, or cuts of fillet of beef,
braised; French pease; Champagne.</item><item align="center">Chicken
croquettes, garnished with fried parsley; potato croquettes.</item><item
align="center">Cups of chocolate, with whipped cream.</item><item
align="center">Salad--lettuce dressed with tarragon.</item><item
align="center">Biscuits glace&#233;s; fruit-ices.</item><item
align="center">Fruit.</item><item
align="center">Bonbons.</item></list></section><section class1="menus"><hd
align="center"><emph rend="italic">Mrs. Sprague's Lunch</emph> (March
10th).</hd><list align="center" size="smaller"><item align="center">Raw oysters
on half-shell.</item><item align="center">Bouillon; sherry.</item><item
align="center">Little vols-au-vent of sweet-breads.</item><item
align="center">Lamb-chops; tomato sauce; Champagne.</item><item
align="center">Chicken croquettes; French pease.</item><item
align="center">Snipe; potatoes &#224; la Parisienne.</item><item
align="center">Salad of lettuce.</item><item align="center">Neuch&#226;tel
cheese; milk wafers, toasted.</item><item align="center">Chocolate Bavarian
cream, molded in little cups, with a spoonful of peach marmalade on each
plate.</item><item align="center">Vanilla ice-cream; fancy cakes.</item><item
align="center">Fruit.</item></list></section><section class1="menus"><hd
align="center"><emph rend="italic">Mrs. Miller's Lunch</emph> (January
6th).</hd><list align="center" size="smaller"><item
align="center">Bouillon.</item><item align="center">Deviled crabs; olives;
claret punch.</item><item align="center">Sweet-breads &#224; la
Milanaise.</item><item align="center">Fillets of grouse, currant jelly;
Saratoga potatoes.</item><item align="center">Roman punch.</item><item
align="center">Fried oysters, garnished with chow-chow.</item><item
align="center">Chicken salad, or, rather, Mayonnaise of chicken.</item><item
align="center">Ramikins.</item><item align="center">Wine jelly, and whipped
cream.</item><item align="center">Napolitaine ice-cream.</item><item
align="center">Fruit.</item><item
align="center">Bonbons.</item></list></section><section class1="menus">
<pb n="39" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=45"/><emph rend="italic">Mrs. Well's Lunch.</emph><list
align="center" size="smaller"><item align="center">Bouillon;
sherry.</item><item align="center">Fried frog's legs; French pease.</item><item
align="center">Smelts, sauce Tartare; potatoes &#224; la
Parisienne.</item><item align="center">Chicken in 
<implement>scallop-shells;</implement> Champagne.</item><item
align="center">Sweet-bread croquettes; tomato sauce.</item><item
align="center">Fried cream.</item><item align="center">Salad;
Romaine.</item><item align="center">Welsh rare-bit.</item><item
align="center">Peaches and cream, frozen; fancy cakes.</item><item
align="center">Fruits.</item></list></section><section
class1="menus"><hd align="center" rend="italic">Mrs. Filley's Lunch.</hd><list
align="center" size="smaller"><item align="center">Mock-turtle soup; English
milk-punch.</item><item
align="center">Lobster-chops; claret.</item><item align="center">Mushrooms in
crust.</item><item align="center">Lamb-chops, en papillote.</item><item
align="center">Chetney of slices of baked fillet of beef.</item><item
align="center">Chocolate, with whipped cream.</item><item
align="center">Spinach on tongue slices (page 145), sauce Tartare.</item><item
align="center">Roast quail, bread sauce (page 185).</item><item
align="center">Cheese; lettuce, garnished with slices of radishes and
nasturtium blossoms, French dressing.</item><item align="center">Mince-meat
patties; Champagne.</item><item align="center">Ices and fancy
cakes.</item><item
align="center">Fruit.</item></list></section></chapter><chapter
class1="generalfood" class2="etiquette"><hd align="center">GENTLEMEN'S
SUPPERS.</hd>
<p>As ladies have exclusive lunches, gentlemen have exclusive suppers. Nearly
the same dishes are served for suppers as for lunches, although gentlemen
generally prefer more game and wine. Sometimes they like fish suppers, with two
or three or more varieties of fish, when nightmare might be written at the end
of the bill of fare.</p>
<p>If one has not a reliable cook, it is very convenient to give these
entertainments, as the hostess has a chance to station herself in the 
<emph rend="italic">cuisine,</emph> and personally superintend the supper.</p>
<pb n="40" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=46"/>
<p>One bill of fare is given for a fish supper:</p><section
class1="menus"><list size="smaller"><item>1st Course.--Raw oysters served in a
block of ice (page 113). [The ice has a pretty effect in the
gas-light.]</item><item>2d Course.--Shad, ma&#238;tre d'h&#244;tel sauce,
garnished with smelts.</item><item>3d Course.--Sweet-breads and tomato
sauce.</item><item>4th Course.--Boiled sardines, on toast.</item><item>5th
Course.--Deviled chicken, Cunard sauce.</item><item>6th Course.--Fillets of
duck, with salad of lettuce.</item><item>7th Course.--Mayonnaise of salmon,
garnished with shrimps.</item><item>8th Course.--Welsh
rare-bit.</item><item>9th Course.--Charlotte Russe.</item><item>10th
Course.--Ice-cream and cake.</item></list></section></chapter><chapter
class1="generalfood" class2="etiquette"><hd align="center">EVENING
PARTIES.</hd>
<p>IF people can afford to give large evening parties, it is less trouble and
more satisfactory to place the supper in the hands of the confectioner.</p>
<p>For card parties or small companies of thirty or forty persons, to meet some
particular stranger, or for literary reunions, the trouble need not be great.
People would entertain more if the trouble were less.</p>
<p>If one has a regular reception-evening, ices, cake, and chocolate are quite
enough; or for chocolate might be substituted sherry or a bowl of punch.</p>
<p>For especial occasions for a company of thirty or forty, a table prettily
set with some flowers, fruit, chicken salad, croquettes or sweet-breads and
pease, one or two or more kinds of ice-cream and cakes, is quite sufficient.
Either coffee and tea, Champagne, a bowl of punch or of eggnog, would be
sufficient in the way of beverage.</p></chapter><chapter class1="household"><hd
align="center">SOMETHING ABOUT ECONOMY.</hd>
<p>I AM indebted to a French girl living in our family for the substance of
this chapter. Her parents being obliged to live in a most economical way in St.
Louis, still had an uncommonly<pb n="41" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=47"/> good table. One
resource was a little garden, in which small compass were raised enough onions,
tomatoes, carrots, and a few other vegetables, to nearly supply the family. A
small bed of four feet square, surrounded by a pretty border of lettuce, was
large enough for raising all necessary herbs, such as sage, summer savory,
thyme, etc. Little boxes in the kitchen windows contained growing parsley, ever
ready for use.</p>
<p>I give receipts for three of their soups--the onion, vegetable 
<emph rend="italic">Pur&#233;e,</emph> and potato soups being most excellent,
and costing not over from five to ten cents each. One of their dinner dishes
was a heart (10 cents) stuffed, baked two or three hours, and served with a
brown gravy and an onion garnish (see receipt). Still another was a two-pound
round-steak (20 cents), spread with a bread and sage stuffing, then rolled,
tied, floured, seasoned on top, then baked, basting it often. It was a pretty
dish, with tomato sauce around it. Sometimes a cheap fish was cut in slices,
egged and bread-crumbed, fried, and garnished with fried potatoes. They had
always a salad for dinner, prepared from their border of lettuce, some cold
potatoes, cold beans, or other vegetable. A fine breakfast dish was of kidneys
(5 cents). Few Americans know how to cook kidneys, and butchers often throw
them away; yet in France they are considered a great delicacy.</p>
<p>Their 
<emph rend="italic">r&#233;pertoire</emph> of cheap dishes was large; so
there was always a change for, at least, each day of the week. A crumb of bread
was never wasted. All odd morsels were dried in the oven, pounded, and put away
in a tin-box, ready for breading cutlets cut from any pieces of mutton or veal,
and for many other purposes.</p>
<p>Any pieces of suet or drippings were clarified and put one side, to be used
for frying. Remains of cooked vegetables of any kind were saved for soups and
sauces. Not a slice of a tomato nor leaf of a cabbage was thrown away.</p>
<p>If they had butter that was not entirely sweet, they added more salt, a
little soda, brought it to a boil on the stove, and then put it away in a
little <implement>crock.</implement> By allowing the settlings to remain at the
bottom, the butter became entirely sweet, and not too salt for cooking
purposes.</p><pb n="42" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=48"/>
<p>Chickens, cutlets, etc., were larded at this table. Now, just to mention the
word "larding" is to overwhelm a common cook; and to require it, is to rivet in
the minds of most housewives the entire impracticability of a whole receipt in
which it is an item. Pieces of salt pork or breakfast bacon should always be
kept in the house. A pound of it, which is not expensive, may last a long time,
as it requires very little for flavoring many things; then, if one has any idea
of sewing, or what it is to push a needle through any thing, one can lard. It
only requires a <implement>larding-needle,</implement> which costs fifteen
cents, and which should last a century. By placing little cut strips of pork in
the end of the needle, as is explained among "directions," then drawing the
needle through parts of the meat, leaving the pork midway, this wonderfully
difficult operation is accomplished. It is only a few minutes' pastime to lard
turkeys, chickens, birds, cutlets, sweet-breads, etc., which gives to them
flavor and style.</p>
<p>Limited in fortune as were this family, they were never without stock at
hand. Their meat for croquettes, patties, etc., had served a duty to the 
<implement>soup-kettle.</implement> If a chicken was to be boiled for the
table, it was thrown into the <implement>stock-pot</implement> while the soup
was simmering, and thus it and the chicken were both benefited.</p>
<p>Their meat dishes were often garnished with little potato-balls, cooked 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la Parisienne,</emph> or simply boiled. This
seemed extravagant; but as a <implement>French vegetable-cutter</implement>
only costs twenty-five cents, and the balls can be cut very rapidly--all the
parings boiled and mashed serving another time as potato-cakes--there was
nothing wasted, and little time lost.</p>
<p>In short, this household (and it is a sample of nearly all French families
of limited means) lived well on little more than many an American family would
throw away.</p>
<p>Let me give five bills of fare of their dinners, the second of which is
partly prepared from the remains of the first day:</p><section
class1="menus"><list size="smaller" align="center"><item align="center">Beef
soup (soup bone), 10 cents.</item><item align="center">Veal blanquitte and
boiled potatoes (knuckle of veal), 15 cents.</item><item align="center">Salad
of sliced tomatoes, 2 or 3 cents.</item><item align="center">Boiled rice, with
a border of stewed small pears (green, or of common variety), 10
cents.</item></list></section><section class1="menus">
<pb n="43" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=49"/><list size="smaller" align="center"><item
align="center">Onion or bean soup, 5 cents.</item><item align="center">Fish (en
matelote), 15 cents.</item><item align="center">Croquettes (made of the remains
of the cold beef-soup meat, and rice), with a tomato sauce.</item><item
align="center">Salad of cold boiled potatoes.</item><item align="center">Fried
bread-pudding.</item></list></section><section class1="menus"><list
size="smaller" align="center"><item align="center">Potato soup.</item><item
align="center">Round steak, rolled (page 140), with baked, parboiled onions, 25
cents.</item><item align="center">Salad of lettuce.</item><item
align="center">Apple-fritters, with sirup.</item></list></section><section
class1="menus"><list size="smaller" align="center"><item align="center">Beef
&#224; la mode, with spinach, 40 cents (enough for two dinners).</item><item
align="center">Salad of potatoes and parsley.</item><item
align="center">Rice-pudding.</item></list></section><section
class1="menus"><list size="smaller" align="center"><item align="center">Noodle
soup.</item><item align="center">Mutton ragout, with potatoes, 25
cents.</item><item align="center">Noodles and stuffed tomatoes.</item><item
align="center">Cheese omelet.</item></list></section></chapter><chapter
class1="generalfood"><hd align="center">DIRECTIONS AND
EXPLANATIONS.</hd><section class1="generalfood"><hd
align="center">BOILING.</hd>
<p>FOWLS or joints should be tied or well skewered into shape before
boiling.</p>
<p>Every thing should be 
<emph rend="italic">gently</emph> simmered, rather than fast boiled, in order
to be tender. The water should never be allowed to stop simmering before the
article is quite done. A pudding is thus entirely ruined.</p>
<p>The kettle should be kept covered, merely raising the cover at times to
remove the scum. Boiled fowl, with a white sauce, is a favorite English dish,
and very nice it is if properly prepared.</p></section><section
class1="generalfood"><hd align="center">FRYING.</hd>
<p>Frying means cooking by 
<emph rend="italic">immersion</emph> in hot fat, butter, or oil. There is no
English word for what is called frying in a<pb n="44"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=50"/>spoonful of fat, first on one side, and then on the other. 
<emph rend="italic">Saut&#233;</emph> is the French word, and should be
Anglicized. Ordinary cooks, instead of frying, invariably 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> every thing. Almost every article that
is usually 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> is much better and more economical 
<emph rend="italic">fried;</emph> as, for instance, oysters, fish, birds,
cutlets, crabs, etc.</p>
<p>The fat should always be tested before the article is immersed. A little
piece of bread may be thrown in, and if it colors quickly, the fat is ready,
and not before. The temperature of hot grease, it will be remembered, is much
greater than that of boiling water, which can not exceed a certain degree of
heat, whether it boil slow or fast. Hot grease reaches a very high degree of
heat, and consequently the surface of any thing is almost instantaneously
hardened or crisped when thrown into it. The inside is thus kept free from
grease, and is quickly cooked. An article first dipped in egg and bread-crumbs
should be 
<emph rend="italic">entirely</emph> free from grease when thus cooked, as the
egg is hardened the instant it touches the hot grease, and the oyster,
croquette, cutlet, or sweet-bread is perfectly protected. The same fat can be
used repeatedly for frying the same thing. The fat in which fish is fried
should not be again used for any thing except fish. Professional cooks have
several frying-kettles, in which fat is kept for frying different things. A
little kettle for frying potatoes exclusively should always be at hand.</p>
<p>One will see that this style of cooking is economical, as there is very
little waste of fat; and then fried articles need no other dressing.</p>
<p>After frying fish, meat, or vegetables, let the fat stand about five
minutes; strain, and then return it to the kettle, which should always be kept
covered, after it is once cold.</p>
<p>Beef suet, salted, is quite as good for frying as lard, and is much cheaper.
It is well to purchase it by the pound, and have it rendered in the
kitchen.</p>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p align="center"><purpose>TO PREPARE GREASE FOR
FRYING</purpose><attribution>(<emph rend="italic">Professor
Blot</emph>).</attribution></p>
<p>Take <ingredient>beef suet, the part around the kidneys,</ingredient> or any
kind of <ingredient>fat,</ingredient> raw or cooked, and free of fibres,
nerves, thin skin, or bones; chop it fine; add to it whatever you may have of 
<ingredient>fat</ingredient><pb n="45" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=51"/> skimmed off the top
of meat soup; put it in a cast-iron or crockery kettle; set it on a moderate
fire; boil gently for fifteen minutes; skim it well during the process; take
from the fire, leave it five minutes, and then strain it; after which, put it
in pots, and keep them in a dry and cool place; cover the pots well every time
you have occasion to use, but never cover them while the grease is warm. This
grease is as good, if not better than any other to fry fish, fritters, and
other similar things, which require to be entirely covered with grease.<ref
target="n1">*</ref></p>
</recipe></section><section class1="generalfood"><hd
align="center">BROILING.</hd>
<p>I did not appreciate the nicety of boiling until, upon an occasion, a
gentleman invited a dinner company to a private dining-room of one of our large
restaurants, to eat a certain kind of fish, which he considered especially
fine. The host was quite out of humor to see the fish come to the table baked,
when he had ordered it broiled. The proprietor afterward explained that, for
some reason, his French cook was absent for that day, and he had no other who
could broil so large a fish. I at once realized that, after all, it must be a
delicate and difficult thing to broil a large fish, so that the centre would be
well done, and the surface not burned. The smaller and thinner the article, the
hotter should be the fire; the larger the article, the more temperate the fire,
or, rather, the greater distance it should at first be placed from it. The
fish, in this case, should have been wrapped in oiled or buttered paper. It
should have been placed rather near the fire for the first few minutes; then
removed farther away, or placed on another more moderate fire. A large 
<implement>baking-pan</implement> should have covered the top of the fish, to
hold the heat. When nearly done, the paper should have been removed, to allow
the surface to brown.</p><ednote>The following note appears at the bottom of
page 45 in the original text.</ednote>
<p id="n1" size="smaller">*The author would add a small proportion of water to
the pieces of fat. It facilitates the melting process, preserves the color, and
will all evaporate in cooking.</p>
<p>Always grease the <implement>gridiron</implement> well, and have it 
<emph rend="italic">hot,</emph> before the meat is placed on it. Any thing
egged and bread-crumbed should be buttered before it is broiled. Fish should be
buttered and sprinkled with flour, which will prevent the skin from
<pb n="46" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=52"/> adhering to the 
<implement>gridiron.</implement>Cutlets, and in fact every thing, are more
delicate buttered before boiling. A little lemon-juice is also often a nice
addition. Birds, and other things which need to be halved, should be broiled, 
<emph rend="italic">inside</emph> first.</p>
<p>Remember that a hot, clear fire is necessary for cooking all small articles.
They should be turned often, to be cooked evenly, without being burned.</p>
<p>Never put a fork in the lean part of meat on the 
<implement>gridiron,</implement> as it allows the juice to escape.</p>
<p>Always cover the <implement>gridiron</implement> with a tin pan or a 
<implement>baking-pan.</implement> The sooner the meat is cooked without
burning, the better. The pans holds the heat, and often prevents a stray line
of smoke from touching the meat.</p>
<p>If the fire should be too hot, sprinkle salt over it.</p></section><section
class1="generalfood"><hd align="center">ROASTING.</hd>
<p>There is little use to talk about roasting, as but few will attempt it,
always considering it easier to bake instead. Indeed, there is so little demand
in many sections for stoves and ranges suited to the purpose that they are
difficult to obtain. Of course, there is no comparison between these modes of
cooking. Beef, mutton, turkeys, ducks, or birds--in fact, any kind of meat is
tenfold better roasted than baked. In Europe, all these articles are roasted;
and people there would have great contempt for a piece of beef or a turkey
baked. In New York and Philadelphia, also, at the finer establishments, the
meats are generally roasted. The trouble is little greater than to bake. It is
only necessary to have the range or stove constructed for roasting, and a tin
screen, with a spit and <implement>jack,</implement> to place before the coals.
Some of the <implement>roasters</implement> are arranged with a 
<implement>spring-jack.</implement> The meat is placed on the spit, and the
spring wound up, which sets the meat to revolving slowly before the fire.</p>
<p>In roasting, the meat should at first be placed near the coals, so as to
quickly harden the surface; then it should be removed back a little distance,
to be cooked through, without burning. The oftener it is basted, the better it
is. If the roast of meat is very large, it should be surrounded with a buttered
paper.</p>
<p>Just before the meat is done, it should be basted with a little
<pb n="47" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=53"/> butter or drippings, then sprinkled with flour,
and placed nearer the fire, to brown nicely, when it will take a frothy
appearance.</p>
<p>Much depends upon the management of the fire. It should be made some time
before the meat is placed for roasting, so that the coals may be bright and
hot. It should also be strong enough to last, with only the addition of an
occasional coal at the top. In fine establishments abroad, a grate for burning
coal, charcoal, or wood is made in the kitchen, for the purpose of roasting
only. This is convenient, but more expensive than roasting in ranges or stoves,
where the same fire may serve for cooking every thing.</p></section><section
class1="generalfood"><hd align="center">SAUT&#233;ING.</hd>
<p>As I have already said, frying implies immersing in fat or oil; but 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;ing</emph> means to cook in a 
<implement>spider</implement> or <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan,</implement> with just enough hot fat to
keep the article, while being cooked, from sticking. The fat should always be
quite hot before placing on it any thing to cook.</p></section><section
class1="generalfood"><hd align="center">BRAISING.</hd>
<p>A <implement>braising-kettle</implement> has a deep cover, which holds
coals; consequently, the cooking is done from above as well as below. It is
almost air-tight, thus preventing evaporation, and the article to be cooked
imbibes whatever flavor one may wish to give it.</p>
<p>The article is generally cooked in stock or broth (water may be used also),
with slices of bacon, onion, carrot, etc., placed around the meat. It is a
favorite mode of cooking pigeons. An ordinary cut of beef may be made very
savory cooked in this manner, and the juice left makes a good gravy when freed
from fat.</p>
<p>If a <implement>braising-pan</implement> is not at hand, a common,
tight-covered saucepan answers very well without the upper coals. Except for
coloring larding on the top of the article to be braised, I do not appreciate
the value of the upper coals, anyway; and the coloring may be accomplished with
the <implement>salamander</implement> or hot shovel as
well.</p></section><section class1="meatfishgame"><pb n="48"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=54"/><hd align="center">LARDING.</hd>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p>Cut the firmest <ingredient>bacon fat,</ingredient> with a heated or very
sharp knife, into square lengths of equal size. Placing one end in a 
<implement>larding-needle,</implement> draw it through the skin and a small bit
of the <ingredient>meat,</ingredient> leaving the strip of 
<ingredient>pork,</ingredient> or <ingredient>lardoon,</ingredient> as it is
called, in the <ingredient>meat.</ingredient> The two ends left exposed should
be of equal length. The punctures for the lardoons should be in rows, of equal
distance apart, arranged in any fanciful way that may suit the cook. The usual
form for <purpose>larding,</purpose> however, is as shown in cut (page 57).</p>
</recipe></section><section class1="meatfishgame"><hd
align="center">BONING.</hd>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose>Boning</purpose> is not a difficult operation. It only requires
time, a thin, sharp knife, and a little care. Cut off the neck, and also the
legs at the first joint. Cut the skin in a line down the middle of the back.
Now, taking first one side and then the other of the cut in the fingers,
carefully separate the flesh from the bones, sliding the knife close to the
bone. When you come to the wings and legs, it is easier to break or unjoint the
bones at the body-joint; cutting close by the bone, draw it, turning the flesh
of the legs and wings inside out. When all the bones are out, the skin and
flesh can be re-adjusted and stuffed into shape. As the leg and wing bones
require considerable time to remove, they may be left in, and the body stuffed
with <ingredient>lamb or veal force-meat.</ingredient> See receipt for boned 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> (page 174). It is a very pretty and delicious
dish.</p>
</recipe></section><section class1="generalfood"><hd align="center">EGG AND
BREAD CRUMBING.</hd>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p>Always sift the <purpose><alt synonym1="egg and bread crumbing">bread or
cracker crumbs.</alt></purpose> Whenever there are spare pieces or 
<ingredient>trimmings of bread</ingredient> or <ingredient>broken
crackers,</ingredient> dry them at once in the oven, and after pounding and
sifting, put them away in a tin can, for future use. In preparing for use, beat
the <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> a little. If they are to be used for sweet
dishes, such as rice croquettes, sweeten them slightly. If they are to be used
for meats, sweet-breads, oysters, etc., always <ingredient>salt</ingredient>and
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> them, and for a change, finely chopped 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> may be added. Add a small proportion of 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> to the <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> say a
half-cupful for two of them, or for one of them, if intended for fish
<pb n="49" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=55"/> or cutlets. Have the 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient> in one plate, and the 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs</ingredient> in another; roll the article first in the
crumbs, then in the <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> then in the crumbs again. In
the case of articles very soft, like croquettes, it will be more convenient for
one person to shape and roll them in the <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> and
another, with dry hands, to roll them in the 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<p>Pounded and sifted cracker-crumbs can be purchased by the pound, at bakeries
and large groceries, for the same price as whole crackers. However, it will
never be necessary to purchase cracker-crumbs, if all scraps of bread are saved
and dried. It is deplorable for a cook to throw them away. It shows that she is
either too indolent to ever learn to cook, or too ignorant of the uses of
scraps of bread to be tolerated. If she saves them for purposes of charity, let
her give fresh bread, which will be more acceptable, and save the scraps, which
are equally useful to her. Yet if the bread-crumbs when pounded and sifted are
not very fine, they are not as good as the cracker-dust.</p></section><section
class1="eggscheesedairy"><hd align="center">TO COOK PUDDING IN BOILING
WATER.</hd>
<recipe class1="eggscheesedairy">
<p>Wet and <ingredient>flour</ingredient> the cloth before adding the 
<purpose><alt
synonym1="to cook pudding in boiling water">pudding.</alt></purpose> In tying
in the <ingredient>pudding,</ingredient> leave room enough for it to swell. If
cooked in a mold, do not fill the mold quite full. Never let the 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> stop boiling. As it wastes away in boiling,
replenish the kettle from another containing <ingredient>boiling
water.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<p>It is better to cook these puddings (
<ingredient>plum-puddings</ingredient>as well) in a 
<implement>steamer</implement> than in <ingredient>boiling water.</ingredient>
The principle is really the same, and there is no 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> soaked.</p></section><section
class1="accompaniments"><hd align="center">DRIED CELERY, PARSLEY, ETC., FOR
WINTER USE.</hd>
<p>Celery, parsley, thyme, summer savory, sage, etc., should all be prepared
for winter use. After drying and pulverizing, put them in tin cans or glass
jars. Celery and parsley are especially valuable for soups and
gravies.</p></section><section class1="soups"><hd align="center">SEEDS FOR
SOUPS.</hd>
<p>If the fresh or dried vegetables are not at hand, seeds, such as celery,
carrot-seed, etc., can be substituted for a flavoring.</p></section>
<pb n="50" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=56"/>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO FLAVOR WITH LEMON
ZEST.</purpose>Never use the white part of the <ingredient>peel of a
lemon</ingredient> for flavoring. It is bitter. The little globules of oil in
the surface of the <ingredient>rind</ingredient> contain all the pleasant
flavor of the peel. It may be thinly pared off, avoiding the white pulp.
Professional cooks, however, rub <ingredient>loaf-sugar</ingredient> over the
surface. The friction breaks the oil-ducts, and the 
<ingredient>sugar</ingredient> absorbs the oil. It is called zest. The 
<ingredient>sugar</ingredient> is afterward pounded fine for certain dishes,
such as creams, 
<emph rend="italic">meringues,</emph> etc.; or it can be simply melted in
custards and beverages.</p>
</recipe><section class1="generalnonfood"><hd align="center">THE COOK'S TABLE
OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.</hd><list><item>1 quart of sifted flour = 1
pound.</item><item>1 quart of powdered sugar = 1 pound and 7
ounces.</item><item>1 quart of granulated sugar = 1 pound and 9
ounces.</item><item>1 pint of closely packed butter = 1
pound.</item><item>Butter, size of egg = about 2 ounces.</item><item>10 eggs =
1 pound.</item><item>3 cupfuls of sugar = 1 pound.</item><item>5 cupfuls of
sifted flour = 1/6th of a gill.</item><item>1 heaping table-spoonfuls = 1
quart; 4 quarts = 1 gallon.</item></list>
<p>In my receipts, I prefer, generally, the use of terms of measure to those of
weight, because the former are more convenient for the majority of
housekeepers.</p></section>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO CHOP SUET.</purpose>Sprinkle 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> over it while chopping, whch will prevent the
pieces from adhering.</p>
</recipe><section class1="breadsweets"><hd align="center">RISING POWDER
PROPORTIONS.</hd>
<p>To 1 quart of flour, use 2 and 1/2 tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder; or,</p>
<p>To 1 quart of flour, use 1 tea-spoonful of soda, and 2 tea-spoonfuls of
cream of tartar; or,</p>
<p>To 1 quart of flour, use 1 cupful of sour milk, and 1 tea-spoonful of
soda.</p></section><pb n="51" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=57"/>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO MAKE ROUX.</purpose>A 
<emph rend="italic">roux</emph> is a mixture of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient>and <ingredient>flour</ingredient> 
<emph rend="italic">cooked.</emph> It is generally added, uncooked, to thicken
a sauce or a soup; but the flavor is much better if it is first cooked, and the
sauce or soup is added to 
<emph rend="italic">it.</emph> Professional French cooks always mange it in
this way. When the <ingredient>butter</ingredient> is first brought to the
boiling-point, in a small <implement>stew-pan</implement> or cup, the sifted 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> is sprinkled in, and both are mixed well
together over the fire with an <implement>egg-whisk,</implement> until the 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> is well cooked; a part of the sauce or soup is
then stirred in until it becomes smooth and thin enough to add to the main
sauce or soup. If the 
<emph rend="italic">roux</emph> is intended for a white sauce, it is not
allowed to color; if for a brown sauce, it may color a little, or 
<ingredient>browned flour</ingredient> may be used.</p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="household"><hd align="center">COOKING
UTENSILS.</hd>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement rend="italic">Bain
Marie.</implement>--This is an open vessel, to be kept at the back of the range
or in some warm place, to be filled with hot (not boiling) water. Several
stew-<illustration><description>A bain marie containing five smaller
pots.</description></illustration> pans, or large tin cups with covers and
handles, are fitted in, which are intended to hold all these cooked dishes
desired to be kept hot. If there are delays in serving the dinner, there is no
better means of preserving the flavor of dishes. The <implement
rend="italic">bain marie</implement> is especially convenient at any time for
keeping sauces, or vegetables for garnish, which can not always be prepared at
the last minute.</p><illustration><description>An illustration of a
braising-pan.</description></illustration>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement
rend="italic">Braising-pan.</implement>--The use of this pan will be found by
referring to the article on "braising."</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement
rend="italic">Fish-kettle.</implement>--The fish is placed on the perforated
tin sheet, which is then put into the<pb n="52"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=58"/><illustration><description>An illustration of a fish-kettle,
with the perforated tin sheet lying next to the main
pan.</description></illustration> kettle of water. The fish is thus taken out
of the water at will, without breaking. When done, it is placed for a minute
over an empty iron kettle on the fire, to drain well and steam. It is then
carefully slipped on a napkin in the hot platter in which it is to be
served.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement
rend="italic">Custard-kettle.</implement>--This is an iron utensil, the inside
kettle being lined with block-tin. Although<illustration><description>An
illustration of a custard-kettle.</description></illustration> there are
cheaper <implement>custard-kettles</implement> made of tin, it is better
economy to purchase those of iron, which are more durable. The inside kettle
containing the custard is placed in the larger one, which is partly filled with
boiling water.</p><illustration><description>An illustration of a
saut&#233;-pan.</description></illustration>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement
rend="italic">Saut&#233;-pan.</implement>--This pan may either be used for
saut&#233;ing, or for an <implement>omelet pan.</implement></p>
<p><emph rend="italic">Sieve for Pur&#233;es.</emph>--This is a substantial
arrangement, the sides being made of tin. It is<illustration><description>An
illustration of a pur&#233;e sieve.</description></illustration> invaluable
for bean, pea, or any of the Pur&#233;e soups, which should be forced through
the sieve. It is also used for bread or cracker crumbs--in fact, for any thing
which requires sifting.</p><illustration><description>An illustration of the
lid, perforated basket, and large main pot of the steaming-kettle, arranged
vertically in the order in which they would be
stacked.</description></illustration>
<p><emph rend="italic">The Steaming-kettle.</emph>--The article to be cooked is
placed in the pan perforated with holes. It is put in the long kettle, which is
partly filled with boiling water, then covered with the close-fitting cover.
This is an invaluable kettle for cooking vegetables,
<pb n="53" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=59"/> puddings, and, in fact, almost any thing that is
usually immersed in boiling water. A cabbage, with salt sprinkled among the
leaves, is cooked much quicker in this way than when immersed, and is much more
delicate. It is especially nice for plum-puddings, which then can not become
water-soaked. Cooks generally manage to let the water stop boiling for some
minutes when boiling puddings, which is just long enough to ruin them. This
kettle is no less valuable for cooking chickens or rice.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement rend="italic">Saratoga
Potato-cutter.</implement>--The screws at the sides adjust a sharp knife, so
that, by rubbing the<illustration><description>Two illustrations of the
Saratoga potato-cutter, one showing the cutter from the back and the other from
the front.</description></illustration> potato over the plane, it may be cut as
fine or as coarse as may be desired. The plane is also used for cutting
cabbage, or for onions to serve with cucumbers. Cabbage, however, should not be
cut too thin, as it is thereby less crisp. Cost, 50 cents.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement
rend="italic">can-opener.</implement>--This is the best and cheapest
pattern.<illustration><description>An illustration of a can
opener.</description></illustration> The handle, knife, and square piece are
all made together of pressed iron. Cost, 25 cents.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement
rend="italic">Cream-whipper.</implement>--The handle 
<emph rend="italic">A</emph> is placed inside the tube 
<emph rend="italic">B.</emph> The tube is dipped into a bowl
of<illustration><description>An illustration of the two parts of the
cream-whipper, labeled A and B.</description></illustration> sweetened and
flavored cream. By churning and pressing it through the perforated holes, the
cream becomes a light froth, which is skimmed off the top, and put on a sieve,
as soon as a few table-spoonfuls of it are formed. Cost, 25 cents.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">The Wire-basket, for Frying.</emph>--Articles to
be<illustration><description>An illustration of a wire frying
basket.</description></illustration> fried are placed in the basket, which is
immersed in boiling fat. It facilitates frying, as the articles are all cooked,
lifted out, and well drained at the same time. It is especially nice for frying
smelts or for boiling eggs.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement
rend="italic">Egg-poacher.</implement>--The eggs are carefully broken into the
little cups, and placed in the stand. The<pb n="54" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=60"/> stand is
then dipped into well-salted<illustration><description>An illustration of an
egg-poacher.</description></illustration> water, which is merely simmering.
When done, each cup (formed like a shell) is taken out from the stand, and
carefully tipped over a piece of buttered toast, leaving the egg with the
pretty form of the cup on top.</p><illustration><description>An illustration of
a fish-stand.</description></illustration>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement
rend="italic">Fish-stand.</implement>--Fried smelts are hung by catching them
to the sharp points of the stand. The intervening places are filled with
parsley or leaves, and the whole served in form of a pyramid.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">The</emph> <implement
rend="italic">Butter-roller.</implement><illustration><description>An
illustration of two wooden paddles, a ball of butter, and a stack of butter
balls in a round dish with three legs.</description></illustration> --The
wooden squares are dipped into cold water. A small piece of butter (enough for
one person at table) is placed on one square, then rolled around with the other
one held in the other land. A little ball is formed with a net-work surface. A
number of balls are thus formed of the same size, and piled on the butter-dish,
as is cut.</p>
<p><implement rend="italic">Butter or Mashed-potato Syringe.</implement>--The
butter is placed in the tube, and pressed through the round holes in the end on
to the butter-dishes. It forms a pretty effect of fillets of butter, resembling
vermicelli. Potatoes boiled, seasoned,<illustration><description>An
illustration of the butter or mashed-potato syringe, separated into two
parts.</description></illustration> and mashed may also be pressed through the
tube around the beef, venison, or almost any meat or fish dish, making a pretty
decoration.</p>
<p><implement rend="italic">French Vegetable-cutters.</implement>--The little
cups of figures 
<emph rend="italic">A </emph>and 
<emph rend="italic">B</emph> are pressed into potatoes, or any bulbous
vegetable, then turned around. The cutter 
<emph rend="italic">A</emph> will make little potato-balls, say
<pb n="55" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=61"/> an inch in diameter, which are fried, and called
"potatoes &#224; la Parisienne." The figure 
<emph rend="italic">B</emph> will cut oblong forms.
Smaller-<illustration><description>An illustration of two vegetable cutters,
labeled A and B, accompanied by the shapes that they cut from the
vegetable.</description></illustration> sized cutters are preferable for
cutting potatoes, carrots, turnips, etc., for garnishing 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la
jardini&#232;re.</emph></p><illustration><description>An illustration of
three tin cutters in the shape of a heart, club, and flower. Each cutter is
accompanied by an example of the shape that it will
cut.</description></illustration>
<p><implement rend="italic">Tin Cutters,</implement> 
<emph rend="italic">for cutting Slices of Bread to fry for decorating
Dishes(cro&#251;tons), or to serve in Soups.</emph>--They may also be used for
cutting slices of vegetables for decorations or for soups.</p>
<p><implement rend="italic">Potato, Carrot, or Turnip Cutter.</implement>--This
simple little instrument cuts the vegetables mentioned into curls. When the
curl is cut, the vegetable is afterward cut from the outside to meet it, when
it easily slips out. The handle is separate from the iron wire, and has to be
taken off in order to remove the curl.<illustration><description>An
illustration of a potato/carrot/turnip cutter, accompanied by a spiral
representing the shape that it cuts from the
vegetables.</description></illustration> The curls can be boiled in salted
water, if of carrots; if of turnips, they are better cooked after the French
receipt given; if of potatoes, they are generally fried in boiling lard, and
sprinkled with a little salt as soon as done. They make a pretty garnish, or
may be served alone.</p>
<p><implement rend="italic">Fluted Knife,</implement> 
<emph rend="italic">for cutting Vegetables into various fancy Forms for
Decorations, or for Salads.</emph>--Some cut mushrooms with this knife, to give
them a scolloped surface.</p><illustration><description>An illustration of a
fluted knife accompanied by three shapes (a cone, a sphere, and a cube) with
grooved surfaces.</description></illustration><pb n="56" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=62"/>
<p><implement rend="italic">French Cook's Knife.</implement>--Made of best
steel. It can easily be kept very sharp, and made of almost constant use in
preparing<illustration><description>An illustration of a French Cook's
Knife.</description></illustration> dishes. It is especially useful for boning.
It costs seventy-five cents, yet, with proper care, should last a life-time.
These knives are so light, sharp, and easily handled, that, when once used, a
person would consider it very awkward to cook without once.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">A Knife for Peeling.</emph>--The wire prevents the
cutting of more than the skins of fruits or vegetables. The wire may be
attached or detached at will, for cleaning it.</p><illustration><description>An
illlustration of the paring knife described in the previous
paragraph.</description></illustration>
<p><implement rend="italic">Wire Skewers</implement> (Fig. A).--They are about
three inches long, and may be of silver or plain wire. Fig. B is a 
<implement>skewer</implement> run<illustration><description>An illustration of
two plain skewers, labeled A; a skewer run through three fish and two other
pieces of food between them, labeled B; and a skewer run through two large and
two small pieces of food.</description></illustration> through three smelts,
with thin slices of bacon between. They are fried in boiling lard, and one
skewerful is served to each person at table. The <implement>fish
dish</implement> is garnished with lemon slices, one of which is placed on the
top of each skewerful of fish when on the plate (see page 112). Fig. C, a 
<implement>skewer</implement> of alternate slices of egged and bread-crumbed
sweet-breads and bacon, managed in the same manner as the smelts (see page
155).</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">Knife for carving Poultry and Game.</emph>--Besides
cutting the flesh, this knife disjoints or cuts
the<illustration><description>An illustration of the knife for carving poultry
and game.</description></illustration> bones, which are often embarrassing,
especially in ducks and geese.</p><illustration><description>An illustration of
a meat-squeezer.</description></illustration>
<p><implement rend="italic">Meat-squeezer,</implement> 
<emph rend="italic">for pressing out the Juice of Beef for Invalids.</emph>--A
piece of round-steak (which yields more juice than other cuts) is barely heated
through, when it is cut, and the juice pressed out at the angle 
<emph rend="italic">A </emph>into a warm cup,<pb n="57"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=63"/>placed in a basin of hot water. The juice should be served
immediately, and taken while still warm.</p>
<p><implement rend="italic">Pancake-lifter.</implement>--This form, having more
breadth than the ordinary square lifter, has the<illustration><description>An
illustration of a pancake-lifter.</description></illustration> advantage of
turning the pancakes with greater facility.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">Brush,</emph> for rubbing
whites<illustration><description>A small brush, with its bristles tied onto its
handle in the manner of a broom.</description></illustration> of eggs over
rusks, crullers, etc., or for glazing meats with clear stock, reduced by
boiling to a stiff jelly.</p>
<p><implement rend="italic">Larding-needles,</implement> 
<emph rend="italic">Lardoons, and Manner of Larding.</emph>--See article on 
<emph rend="italic">Larding,</emph> page 48.</p><illustration><description>A
larding needle, a larding needle fitted with a lardoon, two plain lardoons, and
a larger illustration showing lardoons that have already been larded into a
piece of meat as well as a larding needle being pushed through the meat to
insert another lardoon. The lardoons in the latter illustration have been
labeled with the numbers 1-10.</description></illustration>
<p><implement rend="italic">Apple-corer.</implement>--The larger tube is for
coring<illustration><description>An illustration of two apple corers, one large
and one small.</description></illustration> apples; the smaller one for coring
Siberian crab-apples, for preserving.</p>
<p><implement rend="italic">Jelly-stand.</implement>--This is simply and
cheaply<illustration><description>An illustration of a
jelly-stand.</description></illustration> made. Rings can be fastened to the
ends of the cords, and slipped over the four top rounds, to hold the 
<implement>jelly-bag</implement> on the stand; or it may be tied. The 
<implement>jelly-bag</implement> should be made of flannel, or of Canton
flannel. This arrangement is not only convenient for jellies, but for clear
soups as well.</p><pb n="58" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=64"/>
<p><implement rend="italic">Meat-pie Mold.</implement>--Fig. A represents the
mold closed, the wires at each end fastening the two sides together. It is here
ready to be buttered, the crust to be laid in, and pressed into the decorations
at the sides, filled, the top crust to be fitted over, and baked. Fig. B, the
wire is drawn out one side, the mold opened, and removed from the pie. Fig. C,
the pie ready to be served at table.</p><illustration><description>Three
illustrations labeled A, B, and C. Illustration A depicts a round mold with
decorated sides; illustration B depicts the same mold, swung open into two
semi-circles on its hinge; and illustration C is a fancy dish that has been
shaped with the mold depicted in A and B, served on a round
platter.</description></illustration>
<p><implement rend="italic">Paste-jagger.</implement>--Fig. A represents a 
<implement>paste-jagger,</implement> for cutting and ornamenting the edges of
pie-crust. Fig. B is a plain circle of pie-curst cut with the jagger, to fit
the <implement>pie-dish.</implement> Fig. C is part of a strip of pie-paste,
which is cut with the jagger to lay around the edge of the pie. Fig. D, the
strip<illustration><description>Five illustrations labeled A, B, C, D, and E.
Illustration A depicts a paste-jagger; B is a circle of paste with jagged
edges; C is a thin strip of pastry with jagged edges; D is a pie crust with
jagged edges in a pie plate; and E is a finished pie with strips of crust laid
in a diagonal pattern across the top served on a round
platter.</description></illustration> laid around the edge. Fig. E, the pie
placed upon a plate, ready to serve at table.</p>
<p><implement rend="italic">Glass or Tin Flower Forms.</implement>--These are
flat forms for decorating<illustration><description>An illustration of three
flower forms; one is U-shaped, another is L-shaped, and the third is shaped
like a cross.</description></illustration><pb n="59" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=65"/> the
table with flowers. They are filled with water or wet sand. The flowers are
placed in, and may, or may not, conceal the tin form.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">Molds.</emph>--Fig. A, a circular tin mold for 
<emph rend="italic">blanc-manges,</emph> jellies, etc. Fig. B, supposed to be
a<emph rend="italic">blanc-mange</emph> filled with
strawberries.<illustration><description>Two illustrations, labeled A and B,
depicting a ring-shaped mold and a fancy dessert shaped with the mold,
respectively.</description></illustration> These centres may be filled with any
kind of berries, 
<emph rend="italic">compotes,</emph> fresh fruits, creams, etc., and make
exceedingly pretty dishes. With a small mold of
this<illustration><description>An illustration, labeled C, of a circular mold
with patterned edges.</description></illustration> kind one can prepare a very
dainty-looking dish for an invalid. It may be filled with 
<emph rend="italic">blanc-mange,</emph> tapioca
jelly,<illustration><description>An illustration of a fancy dessert, labeled D,
formed in the mold depicted in illustration
C.</description></illustration>Irish moss, wine, or chicken jellies, etc., and
filled with a 
<emph rend="italic">compote,</emph> a whipped cream, beaten eggs, or any
allowable relish. Fig. C, a circular mold, of more elaborate pattern, yet quite
as easy to manage as the simple one. Fig. D, wine jelly, filled with whipped
cream. Fig. E, a <implement>casserole mold.</implement> Fig. F, a casserole of
rice or mashed potatoes,<illustration><description>Two illustrations labeled E
and F. Illustration E depicts a casserole mold; illustration F is a casserole
served in the casserole mold, which is standing on a round platter and
surrounded by leafy garnishes.</description></illustration>
<pb n="60" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=66"/> filled with fried (<emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph>) spring chickens, with cream sauce, and
surrounded with cauliflower blossoms. A pretty course for dinner, tea, or
supper.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">Little Silver-plated</emph> <implement
rend="italic">Chafing-dish.</implement>--It is about four and a half inches
square, for serving Welsh rare-bits, or for small<illustration><description>An
illustration of a chafing-dish on a round
plate.</description></illustration>pieces of venison-steak, with currant jelly.
One is served to each person at table. The lower part is a reservoir for
boiling-hot water. I have seen them also made with little alcohol-lamps
underneath, when the thin slices of venison-steak can be partly or entirely
cooked at table, in the currant jelly. At least, the preparation served is kept
nicely hot.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">An Instrument for drawing Champagne, Soda, and other
Effervescing Liquids at pleasure, leaving the last Glass as sparkling as the
first.</emph>--The instrument D is driven through the
cork<illustration><description>An illustration of the instrument described in
the previous paragraph. The illustration is in three parts: the illustrations
labeled A and B are the two parts of the instrument, which are fitted together
in the uppermost illustration, which is labeled with a C (indicating a button
on the bottom of the instrument) and D (indicating the entire
instrument).</description></illustration> in the bottle, the wire A is
withdrawn, the button C turned; when the Champagne is drawn through the tube B.
When enough is drawn, the button is again turned, and the wire replaced before
the bottle is raised. The bottle should then be kept bottom side up. The
instrument is a perfect success, and can be obtained of H. B. Platt &#38; Co.,
1211 Broadway, New York. It costs $1.85.</p><illustration><description>A
rectangular piece of paper, labeled A, with dotted lines indicating
folds.</description></illustration>
<p><implement rend="italic">Paper Cases</implement> 
<emph rend="italic">for Souffl&#233;s, Chickens &#224; la Bechamel, or for
anything that can be served scolloped, or en coquille.</emph>--These cases are
easily and quickly made. They furnish a pretty variety at table, filled with
any of the materials described among the receipts for articles to be served in 
<implement>paper cases</implement> or in shells. To<pb n="61"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=67"/> make the <implement>paper cases,</implement> choose
writing-paper: fold and crease it at the dotted lines in Fig.
A,<illustration><description>A rectangular piece of paper, labeled B, with
dotted lines indicating folds, solid lines indicating cuts, and a triangular
notch in the center of each side.</description></illustration> then cut the
paper at the dark lines in Fig. B. By turning the corner squares, so that they
may lap over the sides, the box is formed. Sew the sides together, all around
the box, hiding the stitches under the small piece of paper at the top, lapped
over the outside. They should<illustration><description>An illustration of a
box, labeled C, which was folded from the paper depicted in the two previous
illustrations. A second illustration, labeled D, shows the same box filled with
food and set on a plate.</description></illustration> be buttered just before
filling. Fig. D is a case filled with a rice souffl&#233;. Figs. E and F are
small cases made of round pieces of paper (four inches in diameter), creased
with a penknife. The top may be left unturned, as Fig. F, or turned twice, as
Fig. E. These cases may be purchased already made; however, it is a pleasant
diversion to make them.</p><illustration><description>Two round paper cases,
one (labeled E) with a curved lip and the other (labeled F) with a jagged
lip.</description></illustration>
<p><emph rend="italic">Paper Handles for Lamb-chops, Cutlets, etc.</emph>--A
long strip of thin writing-<illustration><description>Three illustrations,
labeled A, B, and C, showing how to make a paper handle. The illustration
labeled A depicts a piece of paper folded in half and cut partially through
into strips from the folded edge; B depicts the same piece of paper, rolled up
a bit at the folded end; and C depicts the paper coiled into a paper
handle.</description></illustration> paper is doubled, and cut half-way down
with scissors, in as thin cuts as can be easily made (Fig. A, a fragment of the
paper). One edge of the paper is then slipped a little distance farther than
the corresponding edge, which gives the fine cuts a round
<pb n="62" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=68"/> shape, as in Fig. B. The edges can be held in
this position, with the aid of a very little mucilage. Now roll the paper
spirally over a little stick, about the size of a cutlet bone. Fasten the end
with a little mucilage, and the paper handle is quite ready to slip over cutlet
bones, just as they are about to be sent to the table. Larger-sized paper
handles can be made in the same manner for boiled hams.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">Silver-plated Scallop Shell, for any thing served en
coquille.</emph>--Articles served 
<emph rend="italic">en coquille</emph> make a pretty course for lunch
or<illustration><description>An illustration of a dish shaped like a scallop
shell.</description></illustration> dinner. The shells in plated silver are
quite expensive, costing sixty dollars a dozen at Tiffany's. I imagine they
could be made as well of block-tin, with a single coating of silver, and with
the little feet riveted, so as to stand the heat of the oven.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">A M&#233;ringue Decorator.</emph>--The little tin tube
A (one-third of an inch in diameter), or B, is put in the bottom of the bag. 
<emph rend="italic">M&#233;ringue</emph> (whipped whites of eggs, sweetened
and flavored), or frosting for cakes, is put in the bag, and squeezed through
the tube on puddings, lemon or 
<emph rend="italic">m&#233;ringue</emph> pies, or on cakes, forming any
design that may suit the fancy. If it is squeezed through the tube A, the line
of frosting<illustration><description>A m&#233;ringue decorator in three
parts: a cone-shaped bag with a small hole at its apex and two small tips that
can be fitted into the bag.</description></illustration> will be round; if
through tube B, it will be scalloped, when leaves and flowers can easily be
formed. The lady-fingers are shaped by pressing the cake batter though a tube
half an inch in diameter. The bag is easily made with tightly woven twilled
cloth. The little tin tubes can be made at the tinsmith's, or at home, with a
piece of tin, a large pair of scissors, and a little solder. With this little
convenience, the trouble of decorating dishes is very slight, and their
appearance is very much improved.</p><illustration><description>An illustration
of a gravy and sauce strainer.</description></illustration>
<p><implement rend="italic">Gravy and Sauce Strainer.</implement>--A
sauce-strainer made of wire gaze of the form of cut presents
<pb n="63" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=69"/> so much surface for straining that the operation
is much quicker accomplished than when using tin cups with a small circle of
gauze or perforated holes at the bottom.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">An Egg-whisk.</emph>--Decidedly the best form for an
egg-whisk is the one given in the cut.<illustration><description>An
illustration of an egg-whisk.</description></illustration> It is equally useful
for making 
<emph rend="italic">roux</emph> and sauces. By holding the whisk
perpendicularly, and vigorously passing it in the bottom of a saucepan, a small
quantity of butter and flour or sauce can be thoroughly
mixed.</p></chapter><chapter class1="breadsweets"><hd align="center">BREAD, AND
BREAKFAST CAKES.</hd>
<p>IT requires experience to make good bread. One must know, first, how long to
let the bread rise, as it takes a longer time in cold than in warm weather;
second, when the oven is just of proper temperature to bake it. Bread should be
put in a rather hot oven. It is nearly light enough to bake when put in; so the
rule for baking bread differs from that of baking cake, which should be put
into a moderate oven at first, to become equally heated through before rising.
As bread requires a brisk heat, it is well to have the loaves small, the
French-bread loaves being well adapted to a hot oven. After the bread is baked,
the loaves should be placed on end (covered) at the back of the table until
they become cool.</p>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO MAKE
YEAST.</purpose>Ingredients: A cupful of <ingredient>baker's
yeast;</ingredient> four cupfuls of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> two large 
<ingredient>potatoes,</ingredient> boiled; one cupful of 
<ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> and six cupfuls of <ingredient>boiling
water.</ingredient></p>
<p>Mix the warm mashed <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>sugar</ingredient> together; then add the 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> next, add the six cupfuls of 
<ingredient>boiling water,</ingredient> poured on slowly: this cooks the 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> a little. It will be of the consistency of
batter. Let the mixture get almost cold, stirring it well, that the bottom may
become cool also. It will spoil the yeast if the batter be too hot. When
lukewarm, add the tea-cupfuls of <ingredient>yeast.</ingredient> Leave this
mixture in the kitchen, or in some<pb n="64" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=70"/> warm place,
perhaps on the kitchen-table (do not put it too near the stove), for five or
six hours, until it gets perfectly light. Do not touch it until it gets
somewhat light; then stir it down two or three times during the six hours. This
process makes it stronger. Keep it in a cool place until needed.</p>
<p>This <ingredient>yeast</ingredient> will last perpetually, if a tea-cupful
of it be always kept; when making bread, to make new 
<ingredient>yeast</ingredient> at the next baking. Keep it in a stone jar,
scalding the jar every time fresh <ingredient>yeast</ingredient> is made.</p>
<p>In summer, it is well to mix <ingredient>corn-meal</ingredient> with the 
<ingredient>yeast,</ingredient> and dry it in cakes, in some shady, dry place,
turning the cakes often, that they may become thoroughly dry. It requires about
one and a half cakes (<implement>biscuit-cutter</implement>) to make a four
medium-sized loaves of bread. Crumb them, and let them soak in 
<ingredient>lukewarm water</ingredient> about a quarter or half an hour before
using.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO MAKE THE
BREAD.</purpose>Ingredients: <ingredient>Flour,</ingredient> one and a half
cupfuls of <ingredient>yeast,</ingredient> <ingredient>lukewarm
water,</ingredient> a table-spoonful of <ingredient>lard,</ingredient> a little
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
<p>Put two quarts of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> into the 
<implement>bread-bowl;</implement> sprinkle a little 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> over it; add one and a half cupfuls of 
<ingredient>yeast,</ingredient> and enough <ingredient>lukewarm
water</ingredient> to make it a rather soft dough. Set it one side to rise. In
winter, it will take overnight; in summer, about three hours. After it has
risen, mix well into it one table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>lard;</ingredient>then add <ingredient>flour</ingredient> (not too
much), and knead it half an hour. The more it is kneaded, the whiter and finer
it becomes. Leave this in the <implement>bread-bowl</implement> for a short
time to rise; then make it into loaves. Let it rise again for the third time.
Bake.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MRS. BONNER'S
BREAD.</purpose>This is a delicious bread, which saves the trouble of making
yeast. Twenty-five cents' worth of <ingredient>Twin Brothers'
yeast</ingredient> will last a small family in six weeks. I would recommend
Mrs. Bonner's bread in preference to that of the last receipt. It is cheaper
and better, at last, to always have good bread, which is insured by using fresh
<ingredient>yeast</ingredient> each time.</p>
<p>For four loaves: At noon, boil three <ingredient>potatoes;</ingredient> mash
them well; add a little <ingredient>salt;</ingredient> and two and a half
cupfuls of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> also<pb n="65"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=71"/>enough <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> (that in which
the <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> were boiled) to make rather a thin
batter. Let it cool, and when it is at about blood-heat, add a <ingredient>Twin
Brothers' yeast-cake,</ingredient> soaked in half a tea-cupful of 
<ingredient>lukewarm water.</ingredient> One 
<ingredient>yeast-cake</ingredient> will be sufficient for four loaves of bread
in summer; but use one and a half <ingredient>yeast-cakes</ingredient> in
winter. Stir well, and put it in a warm place. At night it will be light, when
stir in enough <ingredient>flour</ingredient> to make the sponge. Do not make
it too stiff. If you should happen to want a little more bread than usual, add
a little <ingredient>warm water</ingredient> to the batter. Let it remain in a
warm place until morning, when it should be well kneaded for at least twenty
minutes. Half an hour or more would be better. Return the dough to the pan, and
let it rise again. When light, take it out; add half a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>soda,</ingredient> dissolved in a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>water;</ingredient> separate it into four loaves; put them in the
pans, and let it rise again. When light, bake it an hour.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>FRENCH BREAD</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Grace Melaine Lourant</attribution>).</p>
<p>Put a heaping table-spoonful of <ingredient>hops</ingredient> and a quart of
<ingredient>hot water</ingredient> over the fire to boil. Have ready five or
six large boiled <ingredient>potatoes,</ingredient> which mash fine. Strain the
<ingredient>hops.</ingredient> Now put a pint of <ingredient>boiling
water</ingredient> (that in which the <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> were
boiled) over three cupfuls of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> mix in the mashed
<ingredient>potatoes,</ingredient> then the quart of strained hot 
<ingredient>hop-water,</ingredient> a heaping tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> and the same of 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient>When this is lukewarm, mix in one and a half 
<ingredient>Twin Brothers' yeast-cakes</ingredient> (softened). Let this stand
overnight in a warm place.</p>
<p>In the morning, a new process is in order: First, pour over the 
<ingredient>yeast</ingredient> a table-spoonful of <ingredient>warm
water,</ingredient> in which is dissolved half a spoonful of 
<ingredient>soda;</ingredient> mix in lightly about ten and a half heaping
tea-cupfuls of sifted <ingredient>flour.</ingredient> No more 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> is added to the bread during its kneading.
Instead, the hands are wet in <ingredient>lukewarm water.</ingredient> Now
knead the dough, giving it about eight or ten strokes; then taking it from the
side next to you, pull it up into a long length, then double it, throwing it
down 
<emph rend="italic">snappishly</emph> and heavily. Wetting the hands again,
give it the same number of strokes, or 
<emph rend="italic">kneads,</emph> pulling the end toward you again, and
throwing it over the part left in the pan. Continue this
<pb n="66" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=72"/> process until large bubbles are formed in the
dough. It will take half an hour or longer. The hands should be wet enough at
first to make the dough rather supple. If dexterously managed, it will not
stick to the hands after a few minutes; and when it is kneaded enough, it will
be very elastic, full of bubbles, and will not stick to the pan. When this time
arrives, put the dough away again in a warm place to rise. This will take one
or two hours.</p>
<p>Now comes another new process. Sprinkle plenty of 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> on the board, and take out lightly enough dough
to make one loaf of bread, remembering that the French loaves are not large,
nor or the same shape as the usual home-made ones. With
the<illustration><description>An illustration of an oval-shaped lump of
dough.</description></illustration>thumb and forefinger gather up the sides
carefully (to prevent doubling the meshes or grain of the dough) to make it
round in shape. Flour the rolling-pin, press it in the centre, rolling a little
to give the dough the form of cut.</p>
<p>Now give each puffed end a roll toward the centre, lapping well the ends.
Turn the bread entirely over, pulling out the ends a little, to give the loaf a
long form, as in cut.</p><illustration><description>An illustration of a long
loaf of bread.</description></illustration>
<p>Sprinkle plenty of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> on large 
<implement>baking-pans</implement> turned bottom side up, upon which lay this
and the other loaves, a little distance apart, if there is room for two of them
on one pan. Sprinkle plenty of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> on the tops, and
set the pans by the side of the fire to again rise a little. It will take
twenty-five or thirty minutes longer. Then bake.</p>
<p>Kneading bread in the manner just described causes the 
<emph rend="italic">grain</emph> of the bread to run in one direction, so that
it may be pealed off in layers. Kneading with 
<ingredient>water</ingredient>instead of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> make
the bread moist and elastic, rather than solid and in crumbs.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">PETITS PAINS</purpose>are made
as in last receipt, by lightly gathering a little handful of 
<ingredient>dough,</ingredient> picking up the sides, and turning it over in
the<pb n="67" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=73"/> form of a ball or a biscuit. They are baked as
described for French bread, placing them a little distance apart, so that they
may be separate little breads, each one enough for one person at breakfast.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TOAST.</purpose>I have remarked
before that not one person in a thousand knows how to make good toast. The
simplest dishes seem to be the ones oftenest spoiled. If the cook sends to the
table a properly made piece of toast, one may judge that she is a 
<emph rend="italic">scientific</emph> cook, and may entertain, at the same
time, exalted hopes of her.</p>
<p>The <ingredient>bread</ingredient> should not be too fresh. It should be
cut<emph rend="italic">thin,</emph> evenly, and in good shape. The crust edges
should be cut off. The pieces shaved off can be dried and put in the
bread-crumb can. The object of toasting <ingredient>bread</ingredient> is to
extract all its moisture--to convert the dough into pure farina of wheat, which
is very digestible. Present each side of the <ingredient>bread</ingredient> to
the fire for a few moments to 
<emph rend="italic">warm,</emph> without attempting to toast it; then turn
about the first side at some distance from the fire, so that it may slowly and
evenly receive a 
<emph rend="italic">golden</emph> color all over the surface. Now turn it to
the other side, moving it in the same way, until it is perfectly toasted. The
coals should be clear and hot. Serve it the moment it is done, on a warm plate,
or, what is better, a <implement>toast-rack;</implement> consequently, do not
have a piece of <ingredient>bread</ingredient> toasted until the one for whom
it is intended is ready to eat it.</p>
<p>"If, as is generally done, a thick slice of <ingredient>bread</ingredient>is
hurriedly exposed to a hot fire, and the exterior of the 
<ingredient>bread</ingredient> is toasted nearly black, the intention of
extracting the moisture is defeated, as the heat will then produce no effect on
the interior of the slice, which remains as moist as ever. Charcoal is a bad
conductor of heat. The overtoasted surface is nothing more or less than a thin
layer of charcoal, which prevents the heat form penetrating through the 
<ingredient>bread.</ingredient> Neither will 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient>pass through the hard surface: it will remain on
it, and if exposed to heat, to melt it in, it will dissolve, and run over it in
the form of rancid oil. 
<emph rend="italic">This</emph> is why buttered toast is so often
unwholesome."</p>
</recipe><pb n="68" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=74"/>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>DIXIE BISCUIT</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Blair</attribution>).</p>
<p>Mix one tea-spoonful of <ingredient>salt</ingredient> into three pints of 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> put one tea-cupful of 
<ingredient>milk,</ingredient> with two table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>lard,</ingredient> on the fire to warm. Pour this on two 
<ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> well beaten; add the 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> with one tea-cupful of <ingredient>home-made
yeast.</ingredient> When well mixed, set it in a warm place for about five
hours to rise; then form into biscuit; let them rise again. Bake.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">GRAHAM BREAD.</purpose>Make the 
<ingredient>sponge</ingredient> as for white bread; then knead in 
<ingredient>Graham flour,</ingredient> only sifting part of it. Add, also, two
or three table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>molasses.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">RUSKS.</purpose>Add to about a
quart of <ingredient>bread dough</ingredient> the beaten <ingredient>yolks of
three eggs,</ingredient> half a cupful of <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> and
one cupful of <ingredient>sugar:</ingredient> mix all well together. When
formed into little cakes (rather high and slender, and placed very near each
other), rub the tops with <ingredient>sugar</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> mixed; then sprinkle over dry 
<ingredient>sugar.</ingredient> This should fill two pans.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>PARKER HOUSE ROLLS</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Samuel Treat</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: Two quarts of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> one pint of 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> (measured after boiling), 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of an egg, one table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> one tea-cupful of <ingredient>home-made
yeast,</ingredient> and a little <ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
<p>Make a hole in the <ingredient>flour.</ingredient> Put in the other
ingredients, in the following order: <ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient> <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>yeast.</ingredient> Do not stir the ingredients after putting them
together. Arrange this at ten o'clock at night; set it in a cool place until
ten o'clock the next morning, when mix all together, and knead it fifteen
minutes by the clock. Put it in a cool place again until four o'clock P.M.,
when cut out the rolls, and set each one apart from its neighbor in the pan.
Set it for half an hour in a warm place. Bake fifteen minutes.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEATEN BISCUIT.</purpose>Rub one
quarter of a pound of <ingredient>lard</ingredient> into one and a half
<pb n="69" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=75"/> pounds of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> adding
a pinch of <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Mix enough 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> or <ingredient>water</ingredient> with it to make
a 
<emph rend="italic">stiff</emph> dough. Beat the dough well with a rolling-pin
for half an hour or more, or until the dough will 
<emph rend="italic">break</emph> when pulled. Little machines come for the
purpose of making beaten biscuit, which facilitate the operation. Form into
little biscuit, prick them on top several times with a fork, and bake.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SODA AND CREAM OF TARTAR
BISCUIT.</purpose>Ingredients: One quart of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> one
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>soda,</ingredient> two tea-spoonfuls 
<ingredient>cream of tartar,</ingredient> one even tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> <ingredient>lard</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of a small egg, and 
<ingredient>milk.</ingredient></p>
<p>Put the <ingredient>soda,</ingredient> <ingredient>cream of
tartar,</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> on the table; mash them
smoothly with a knife, and mix well together; mix them as evenly in the 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> as possible; then pass it all through the sieve
two or three times. The success of the biscuits depends upon the equal
distribution of these ingredients. Mix in the <ingredient>lard</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> (melted) as evenly as possible, taking time to
rub it between the open hands, to break any little lumps. Now pour in enough 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> to make the dough consistent enough to roll out,
mixing it lightly with the ends of the fingers. The quicker it is rolled out,
cut, and baked, the better will be the biscuits.</p>
<p>The biscuits are cheaper made with <ingredient>cream of
tartar</ingredient>and <ingredient>soda</ingredient> than with baking-powder,
yet many make the</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BISCUITS WITH
BAKING-POWDER.</purpose>They are made as in the last receipt, merely
substituting two heaping tea-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>baking-powder</ingredient> for the cream of tartar and soda, and
taking the same care to mix evenly.</p>
<p>These biscuits are nice rolled quite thin (half an inch), and cut with a
small cutter two inches in diameter. They may be served hot or cold, and are
often used at evening companies, cold, split in two, buttered, and with chopped
<ingredient>ham</ingredient> (as for sandwiches) placed between them. They are
preferable to bread sandwiches, as they do not dry as quickly, and are,
perhaps, neater to handle. These biscuits are especially nice when made with 
<ingredient>Professor Horsford's self-raising flour</ingredient>of course,
<pb n="70" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=76"/> the raising powders are omitted. The appreciation
of hot biscuits is quite a Southern and Western American fancy. They are rarely
seen abroad, and are generally considered unwholesome in the Eastern
States.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MUFFINS.</purpose>Ingredients:
Two <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> one pint of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient>one tea-cupful of <ingredient>milk</ingredient>
or <ingredient>cream,</ingredient> <ingredient>butter</ingredient> half the
size of an egg, a little <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and one tea-spoonful of
<ingredient>baking-powder.</ingredient></p>
<p>Mix the baking-powder and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> in the 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient> Beat the <ingredient>eggs;</ingredient> add to
the <ingredient>yolks,</ingredient> first, <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> then 
<ingredient>butter (melted),</ingredient> then 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient>then the <ingredient>whites.</ingredient> Beat
well after it is all mixed, and bake them immediately in a hot oven, in 
<implement>gem-pans</implement> or rings. Take them out of the pans or rings
the moment they are done, and send them to the table. The 
<ingredient>self-raising flour</ingredient> is very nice for making muffins. In
using this, of course, the baking-powder should be omitted.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">WAFFLES.</purpose>Ingredients:
Two <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> one pint of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient>one and a quarter cupfuls of 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> or <ingredient>cream,</ingredient> one even
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>yeast-powder,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> or <ingredient>lard</ingredient> the size of a
walnut, and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
<p>Mix the baking-powder and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> well in the 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> then rub in evenly the 
<ingredient>butter;</ingredient> next add the beaten 
<ingredient>yolks</ingredient> and <ingredient>milk</ingredient> mixed, then
the beaten <ingredient>whites of the eggs.</ingredient> Bake immediately.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>RICE WAFFLES</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Gratz Brown</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: One and a half pints of <ingredient>boiled
rice,</ingredient>one and a half pints of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> half
a tea-cupful of <ingredient>sour milk,</ingredient> half a tea-cupful of 
<ingredient>sweet milk,</ingredient> one tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>soda,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> three 
<ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> and <ingredient>butter</ingredient> size of a
walnut.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">RICE PANCAKES</purpose>are made
as in the last receipt, by adding an extra half-cupful of 
<ingredient>milk.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>HOMINY CAKE</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Watts Sherman</attribution>).</p>
<p>Add a spoonful of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> to two cupfuls of 
<ingredient>whole hominy</ingredient> (boiled an hour with 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient>) while it is still hot. Beat three 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient> very light, which add to the 
<ingredient>hominy.</ingredient> Stir in gradually</p>
<pb n="71" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=77"/>
<p> a pint of <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> and, lastly, a pint of 
<ingredient>corn-meal.</ingredient> Bake in a pan.</p>
<p>This is a very nice breakfast cake. Serve it, with a large napkin under it,
on a plate. The sides of the napkin may cover the top of the cake until the
moment of serving, which will keep it moist.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>BAKED HOMINY GRITS</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Pope</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: One quart of <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> one cupful of 
<ingredient>hominy grits,</ingredient> two <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
<p>When the <ingredient>milk</ingredient> is salted and boiling, stir in the 
<ingredient>hominy grits,</ingredient> and boil for twenty minutes. Set it
aside to cool thoroughly. Beat the <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> to a stiff
froth, and then beat them well and hard into the 
<ingredient>hominy.</ingredient> Bake half an hour.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>BREAKFAST PUFFS, OR POP-OVERS</purpose>(<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Hopkins</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: Two cupfuls of <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> two cupfuls of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> two <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> and an even
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
<p>Beat the <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> separately and well, add the 
<ingredient>whites</ingredient> last, and then beat all well together. They may
be baked in <implement>roll-pans,</implement> or deep 
<implement>gem-pans,</implement> which should be heated on the range, and
greased before the batter is put in: they should be filled half full with the
batter. Or they may be baked in <implement>tea-cups,</implement> of which eight
would be required for this quantity of batter. When baked, serve immediately. 
<variation>For <purpose>Graham gems</purpose> use half <ingredient>Graham
flour.</ingredient></variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>HENRIETTES FOR TEA</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">French Cook</attribution>), No. 1.</p>
<p>Ingredients: Three <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> beaten separately,
three-fourths of a cupful of <ingredient>cream</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>milk,</ingredient> a scant tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>baking-powder,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> one
table-spoonful of <ingredient>brandy,</ingredient> a pinch of 
<ingredient>cinnamon,</ingredient> enough <ingredient>flour</ingredient> to
make them just stiff enough to roll out easily.</p>
<p>Roll them thin as a wafer, cut them into about two-inch squares, or into
diamonds, with the <implement>paste-jagger,</implement> fry them in boiling 
<ingredient>lard,</ingredient> and sprinkle over <ingredient>pulverized
sugar.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>HENRIETTES FOR BREAKFAST OR
TEA</purpose>(<attribution rend="italic">French Cook</attribution>), No. 2.</p>
<p>Ingredients: Three <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> beaten separately, one
cupful of <pb n="72" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=78"/> <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> a scant
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>baking-powder,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> one table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>brandy,</ingredient> and <ingredient>flour</ingredient> enough to
make a little thicker than for pancakes.</p>
<p>Pass the batter through a funnel (one-third or one-half inch diameter at
end) into hot boiling <ingredient>lard,</ingredient> making rings, or any
figures preferred. Do not fry too much at one time. When done and drained,
sprinkle over <ingredient>pulverized sugar,</ingredient> and lay them on a
plate on a folded napkin. Serve.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets" class2="medhealth">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">WAFER BISCUITS.</purpose>Rub a
piece of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of a large hickory-nut into a
pint of sifted <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> sprinkle over a little 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Mix it into a stiff, smooth paste, with the 
<ingredient>white of an egg</ingredient> beaten to a froth, and 
<ingredient>warm milk.</ingredient> Beat the paste with a rolling-pin for half
an hour, or longer; the more the dough is beaten, the better are the biscuits.
Form the dough into little round balls about the size of a pigeon's egg; then
roll each of them to the size of a saucer. They should be mere wafers in
thickness; they can not be too thin. Sprinkle a little 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> over the tins. Bake.</p>
<p>These wafers are exceedingly nice to serve with a cheese course, or for
invalids to eat with their tea.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CORN
BREAD.</purpose>Ingredients: One cupful of <ingredient>sour
milk,</ingredient>one cupful of <ingredient>sweet milk,</ingredient> one
table-spoonful of <ingredient>sugar</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>molasses,</ingredient> one tea-cupful of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> two heaping tea-cupfuls of 
<ingredient>corn-meal,</ingredient> one tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> one tea-spoonful (not heaping) of 
<ingredient>soda,</ingredient> one and a half table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>melted lard</ingredient> or <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> and
three <ingredient>eggs.</ingredient></p>
<p>Beat the <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> separately; add the 
<ingredient>melted butter</ingredient> to the 
<ingredient>milk;</ingredient>then the <ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> <ingredient>yolks,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>soda</ingredient> (dissolved in a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>warm water</ingredient>); and, lastly, the 
<ingredient>whites,</ingredient> <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>corn-meal.</ingredient> Beat it all quickly and well together. Put
it immediately in the oven, to bake half an hour.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">HOE CAKE.</purpose>Pour enough
scalding <ingredient>water,</ingredient> or <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> on 
<ingredient>corn-meal (salted),</ingredient> to make it rather moist. Let it
stand an hour, or longer. Put two or three heaping table-spoonfuls on a hot
griddle, greased<pb n="73" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=79"/> with 
<ingredient>pork</ingredient> or <ingredient>lard.</ingredient> Smooth over the
surface, making the cake about half an inch thick, and of round shape. When
browned on one side, turn and brown it on the other. Serve very hot.</p>
<p>These are very nice breakfast, cakes, with a savory crust.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>CORN CAKE</purpose> (<attribution rend="italic">Mrs.
Lackland</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: One pint of <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> half a pint of 
<ingredient>Indian 
<alt synonym1="meal,">meal.</alt></ingredient> four 
<ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> a scant table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and one
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>sugar.</ingredient> Pour the 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> boiling on the 
<emph rend="italic">sifted</emph> meal. When cold, add the 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> (melted), the <ingredient>salt,</ingredient>the
<ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> the <ingredient>yolks of the eggs,</ingredient>
and, lastly, the <ingredient>whites,</ingredient> well beaten separately. Bake
half an hour in a hot oven. It is very nice baked in iron or tin <implement>gem
pans,</implement> the cups an inch and a half deep.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">FRIED CORN MUSH FOR
BREAKFAST.</purpose>Many slice the mush when cold, and simply 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> it in a little hot 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient> But as some cooks seem to have as great success
in simple dishes as in elaborate ones, I shall consider this as at least one of
the little successes taught me by a French cook. Of course, the mush is made by
sprinkling the <ingredient>corn-meal</ingredient> into 
<ingredient rend="italic">boiling salted water,</ingredient> or after the
manner of Harriet Plater, given in the next receipt. It is thoroughly cooked,
and made the day before wanted. When cold, it is sliced, each slice dipped in
beaten <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> (salted) and <ingredient>bread or cracker
crumbs,</ingredient> and fried in boiling-hot <ingredient>lard.</ingredient>One
should try this, to know the superiority in the manner of cooking.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CORN MUSH</purpose>is usually
made by sprinkling <ingredient>corn-meal</ingredient> into 
<ingredient>well-salted boiling water</ingredient> (a pint of 
<ingredient>corn-meal</ingredient> to three pints of 
<ingredient>water</ingredient>), and cooking it well. But Harriet Plater (Mrs.
Filley's most skillful cook) says that corn-meal mush is much lighter, and when
fried for breakfast, browns better by cooking it as follows:</p>
<p>"Put a quart of <ingredient>water</ingredient> on the fire to boil. Stir a
pint of <ingredient>cold milk,</ingredient> with one pint of 
<ingredient>corn-meal</ingredient> and one tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> When the <ingredient>water</ingredient> boils,
pour in the mixture gradually, stirring all well together. Let it boil for half
an hour, stirring often, to prevent it from burning."</p>
</recipe><pb n="74" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=80"/>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">OATMEAL PORRIDGE.</purpose>It
seems very simple to make oatmeal porridge, yet it is a very different dish
made by different cooks. The ingredients are: One heaping cupful of 
<ingredient>oatmeal</ingredient> to one quart of <ingredient>boiling
water</ingredient> and one tea-spoonful of <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Boil
twenty minutes.</p>
<p>The <ingredient>water</ingredient> should be salted and boiling when the
meal is sprinkled in with one hand, while it is lightly stirred in with the
other. When all mixed, it should boil without afterward being stirred more than
is necessary to keep it from burning at the bottom, and to mingle the grains
two or three times, so that they may all be evenly cooked. If much stirred, the
porridge will be starchy or waxy, and poor in flavor. But the puffing of the
steam through the grains without much stirring swells each one separately, and,
when done, the porridge is light, and quite consistent. This same manner of
cooking is applicable as well to all other grains.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>MOTHER JOHNSON'S PANCAKES</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Adirondacks</attribution>).</p>
<p>These are famous pancakes, and, like every other good thing, there is a
little secret in the preparation.</p>
<p>Enough <ingredient>flour</ingredient> is added to a quart of 
<ingredient>sour milk</ingredient> to make a rather thick batter. The secret is
that it is left to stand over-night, instead of being finished at once. It may
even stand to advantage for twenty-four hours. However, if it is mixed at
night, the next morning two well-beaten <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> are to be added at the same time with half a
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>soda,</ingredient> dissolved in a table-spoonful of
<ingredient>warm water.</ingredient> Cook immediately.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SIRUP.</purpose>Mix two
table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>water</ingredient> to two cupfuls of 
<ingredient>brown sugar</ingredient> and one even table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> Let it boil about five minutes.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BUCKWHEAT CAKES.</purpose>Scald
two gills of <ingredient>Indian meal</ingredient> in one quart of 
<ingredient>boiling water.</ingredient> Add a little 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> When cool, add one gill of 
<ingredient>yeast,</ingredient> and stir in enough <ingredient>buckwheat
flour</ingredient> to make a thin batter. Let it rise over-night. If by chance
it is a little sour, just before cooking add<pb n="75"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=81"/>one-fourth of a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>soda,</ingredient> dissolved in half a cupful of 
<ingredient>boiling water.</ingredient> Or,</p>
<p><variation>They may be made in the same manner without the Indian meal,
merely adding the <ingredient>yeast</ingredient> to a quart of 
<ingredient>lukewarm water,</ingredient> and making the batter with 
<ingredient>buckwheat flour</ingredient> alone.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">PANCAKES, WITH FLOUR OR
CORN-MEAL.</purpose>Stir one or two cupfuls of <ingredient>cream</ingredient>or
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> into two beaten <ingredient>eggs;</ingredient>add
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> or <ingredient>corn-meal</ingredient> enough to
make a thin batter. If the <ingredient>milk</ingredient> is sweet, add one
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>yeast-powder;</ingredient> if it is sour, add,
instead of the <ingredient>yeast-powder,</ingredient> half a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>soda,</ingredient> dissolved in a little <ingredient>warm
water.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">PANCAKES, WITH
BREAD-CRUMBS.</purpose>Soak the <ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> the
drain them. To two cupfuls of <ingredient>bread-crumbs</ingredient> add one
cupful of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>corn-meal,</ingredient>one <ingredient>egg,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> enough to make a thin batter. If the 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> is sweet, add a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>yeast-powder;</ingredient> if sour, half a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>soda,</ingredient> dissolved in a table-spoonful of<ingredient>warm
water.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>STRAWBERRY SHORT-CAKE</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Pope</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: One quart of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> two heaping
tea-spoonfuls of <ingredient>yeast-powder,</ingredient> half a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> <ingredient>butter</ingredient> size of an egg, 
<ingredient>milk,</ingredient> two quarts of 
<ingredient>strawberries.</ingredient> Mix the 
<ingredient>baking-powder</ingredient> into the 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient>then rub in the <ingredient>butter</ingredient>
(in the same manner as described for biscuits, page 72). Add enough 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> to make a soft dough--rather softer than for
biscuits. Spread this on two pie-tins. Bake in a quick oven.</p>
<p>When the cakes are done, let them partly cool. Cut around the edges, and
split them. Spread them with <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> then with one
quart of mashed <ingredient>strawberries,</ingredient> with plenty of 
<ingredient>sugar;</ingredient> then put between them the other quart of whole 
<ingredient>strawberries,</ingredient> sprinkled with 
<ingredient>sugar.</ingredient> Serve a pitcher of 
<ingredient>cream</ingredient> with a strawberry short-cake. The cake in this
form can be cut like a pie. It is a good summer breakfast as well as tea dish.
Or,</p>
<p><variation>It can be made with <ingredient>sour milk,</ingredient> viz.: to
two tea-cupfuls of <ingredient>sour milk</ingredient> add a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>soda,</ingredient> then three-fourths of a tea-cupful of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> or <ingredient>lard,</ingredient> partly
melted, and enough <ingredient>flour</ingredient> to
<pb n="76" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=82"/> make a soft dough. Roll it into thin cakes large
enough to fill the pan in which they are to be baked. When baked, split, and 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> them while hot. Lay on a plate half of the
cake, put on a layer of <ingredient>well-sugared strawberries,</ingredient>then
the other half, then more <ingredient>strawberries,</ingredient> and so on,
until there are several layers. Or,</variation></p>
<p><variation>These <purpose><alt
synonym1="currant short-cake, blackberry short-cake, peach short-cake, pineapple short-cake, raspberry short-cake">cakes</alt></purpose>can
be made in the same way with <ingredient>currants,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>blackberries,</ingredient> cut 
<ingredient>peaches,</ingredient>chopped <ingredient>pine-apples,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>raspberries,</ingredient> etc.</variation></p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="beverages"><hd align="center">TEA.</hd>
<recipe class1="beverages">
<p>TWO things are necessary to insure good <purpose>tea:</purpose> first, that
the <ingredient>water</ingredient> should be at the boiling-point when poured
on the leaves, <ingredient>water</ingredient> simply hot not answering the
purpose at all; and, second, that it should be served freshly made. 
<ingredient>Tea</ingredient> should never be boiled. So particular are the
English to preserve its first aroma, that it is sometimes made on the table two
or three times during a meal. In France, little silver canisters of 
<ingredient>tea</ingredient> are placed on the table, where it is invariably
made. One tea-spoonful of the <ingredient>leaves</ingredient> is a fair portion
for each person. <ingredient>Tea</ingredient> is better made in an earthen
tea-pot, which <ingredient>tea</ingredient> connoisseurs are particular to
have. They also drink the beverage without milk, and with 
<ingredient>loaf-sugar</ingredient> merely.</p>
<p><ingredient>Water</ingredient> at the first boiling-point is generally
considered better for <ingredient>tea</ingredient> or coffee, and, in fact, any
kind of cooking which requires <ingredient>boiling water.</ingredient></p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="beverages"><hd align="center">COFFEE.</hd>
<recipe class1="beverages">
<p>THE best <ingredient>coffee</ingredient> is made by mixing two-thirds 
<ingredient>Java</ingredient> and one-third <ingredient>Mocha.</ingredient> The
Java gives strength, the Mocha flavor and aroma.</p>
<p><ingredient>Coffee</ingredient> should be evenly and carefully roasted. Much
depends upon this. If even a few of the berries are burned, the 
<ingredient>coffee</ingredient> will taste burned and bitter, instead of being
fine-flavored<pb n="77" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=83"/> and aromatic. To have the perfection
of <ingredient>coffee,</ingredient> it should be fresh-roasted each day. Few,
however, will take that trouble. As soon as it is roasted, and while still hot,
stir into it one or two <ingredient>eggs, together with their
shells</ingredient> (about one <ingredient>egg</ingredient> to a pint of
roasted <ingredient>coffee-beans</ingredient>). This will help to preserve the 
<ingredient>coffee,</ingredient> as well as to make it clear. Put it away in a
close-covered tin-case, and grind it only just before using.</p>
<p>Allow two heaping table-spoonfuls of ground 
<ingredient>coffee</ingredient>to a pint of <ingredient>water.</ingredient> Let
the <ingredient>water</ingredient> be 
<emph rend="italic">boiling</emph> when it is poured on the 
<ingredient>coffee.</ingredient> Cover it as tightly as possible, and boil it
one minute; then let it remain a few moments at the side of the range to
settle.</p>
<p><attribution>Delmonico</attribution> allows one and a half pounds of 
<ingredient>coffee</ingredient> to one gallon of 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> The <implement>coffee-pot,</implement> with a
double base, is placed on the range in a vessel of <ingredient>hot
water</ingredient> (<implement rend="italic">bain-marie</implement>). The 
<ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> is poured over the 
<ingredient>coffee,</ingredient> which is contained in a felt strainer in the 
<implement>coffee-pot.</implement> It is not boiled.</p>
<p>Of course, much depends upon the care in preparing the 
<ingredient>coffee</ingredient> to insure a delicious beverage; but equally as
much depends upon serving with it good thick <ingredient>cream.</ingredient> 
<ingredient>Milk,</ingredient> or even boiled <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> is
not to be compared with <ingredient>cream.</ingredient> In cities, a gill, at
least, might be purchased each morning for <ingredient>coffee,</ingredient> or
a few table-spoonfuls might be saved from the evening's 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> for at least 
<emph rend="italic">one</emph> cup. Fill the cup two-thirds full, then, with
hot, clear <ingredient>coffee,</ingredient> pour in one or two table-spoonfuls
of <ingredient>cream,</ingredient> and use 
<ingredient>loaf-sugar.</ingredient></p>
<p>Professor Blot, in his lectures, was very emphatic as to the impropriety of 
<emph rend="italic">boiling</emph> <ingredient>coffee.</ingredient> He said by
this means the aroma and flavor were carried into the attic, and a bitter
decoction was left to be drunk. He preferred decidedly the 
<ingredient>coffee</ingredient> made in the <implement>French filter
coffee-pot.</implement></p>
<p>I have experimented upon <ingredient>coffee,</ingredient> and prefer it
boiled for one minute in the ordinary <implement>coffee-pot.</implement> That
made in the French filter is also most excellent. It is not boiled, and
requires a greater proportion of <ingredient>coffee.</ingredient> But to be
explicit, put the <ingredient>coffee</ingredient> in the filter. At the first
boil of the <ingredient>water,</ingredient> pour one or two coffee-cupfuls of
it on the <ingredient>coffee.</ingredient> Put back the 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> on the fire. When boiling again, pour on as much
more, and repeat the process until the desired quantity is made.</p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="beverages"><pb n="78" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=84"/><hd
align="center">CHOCOLATE (<emph rend="italic">Miss Sallie Schenck</emph>).</hd>
<recipe class1="beverages">
<p>ALLOW two sticks of <purpose>chocolate</purpose> to one pint of 
<ingredient>new milk.</ingredient> After the 
<ingredient>chocolate</ingredient>is scraped, either let it soak an hour or so,
with a table-spoonful of <ingredient>milk</ingredient> to soften it, or boil it
a few moments in two or three table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> Then, in either case, mash it to a smooth
paste. When the <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> sweetened to taste with 
<ingredient>loaf-sugar,</ingredient> is boiling, stir in the chocolate-paste,
adding a little of the boiling <ingredient>milk</ingredient>to it first, to
dilute it evenly. Let it boil half a minute. Stir it well, or mill it, and
serve immediately.</p>
<p><ingredient>Maillard's chocolate</ingredient> is flavored with a little 
<ingredient>vanilla.</ingredient> The commoner brands, such as Baker's, will be
nearly as good by adding a little <ingredient>vanilla</ingredient> when
making.<attribution>Miss Schenck</attribution> (noted for her 
<ingredient>chocolate</ingredient>) adds a very little flavoring of 
<ingredient>brandy.</ingredient></p>
<p>A very good addition, and one universally seen, when 
<ingredient>chocolate</ingredient> is served at lunch parties, is a heaping
table-spoonful of <ingredient>whipped-cream,</ingredient> sweetened and
flavored with a little <ingredient>vanilla</ingredient> before it is whipped,
placed on the top of the <ingredient>chocolate</ingredient> in each cup, the
cup being only three-quarters filled with the 
<ingredient>chocolate.</ingredient></p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="beverages"><hd align="center">COCOA.</hd>
<recipe class1="beverages">
<p>MANY use <purpose>cocoa</purpose> rather than chocolate. It has the same
flavor, but it has more body, and is richer and more oily. It is made in the
same way as chocolate, but a few drops of the <ingredient>essence of
vanilla</ingredient> should be invariably added.</p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="soups"><hd align="center">SOUP.</hd>
<p>THE meat should be fresh, lean (all fat possible being removed), and juicy
to make the best soup. It is put into cold, clear water, which should be heated
only moderately for the first half-hour. The object is to extract the juices of
the meat, and if it be boiled too soon, the surface will become coagulated,
thereby imprisoning the juice within. After the first half-hour
<pb n="79" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=85"/> the pot should be placed at the back of the
stove, allowing the soup to simmer for four or five hours.</p>
<p>Nothing is more disagreeable at table than greasy soup. As all particles of
fat are taken off hot liquor with some difficulty, soup should be made the day
before it is to be used, when the fat will rise to the top and harden. It can
then be easily removed.</p>
<p>When vegetables are used, they should be added only in time to become
thoroughly done: afterward they absorb a portion of the richness of the
soup.</p>
<p>When onions are used, they impart better flavor by being fried or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> in a little hot butter or other
grease, before they are added to the soup. In fact, many professional cooks fry
other vegetables also, such as carrots and turnips. Sometimes they even fry
slightly the chickens, beef, etc., and then cut them into smaller pieces for
boiling. Potatoes and cabbage should be boiled in separate water before they
are added to a soup.</p>
<p>Amateur cooks seem to have a great aversion to making stock. They think it
must be something troublesome, and too scientific to undertake; whereas, in
truth, it saves the trouble of going through the process of soup-boiling every
day, and it is as easy to make as any simple soup. One has only to increase the
quantity of meat and bones to any desired proportion, adding pepper and salt,
and also vegetables, if preferred.</p>
<p>The stock should be kept in a stone jar. It will form a jelly, and in cool
weather will last at least a week.</p>
<p>Just before dinner each day, in order to prepare soup, it is only necessary
to cut off some of the jelly and heat it. It is very good with nothing
additional; but one can have a change of soup each day by adding different
flavorings, such as onion, macaroni, vermicelli, tomato, tapioca, spring
vegetables (which will make a 
<emph rend="italic">julienne</emph>), poached eggs, fried bread, asparagus,
celery, green pease, etc. I will be explicit about these additions in the
receipts. Stock is also valuable for gravies, sauces, and stews, and for
boiling many things, such as pigeons, chickens, etc.</p>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">STOCK, OR POT 
<emph rend="italic">AU FEU.</emph></purpose>In ordinary circumstances, 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient> alone, with some 
<ingredient>vegetables,</ingredient> <pb n="80" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=86"/> will make a
good broth or stock, in the proportion of two and a half pints of 
<ingredient>cold water</ingredient> to each pound of 
<ingredient>bones</ingredient> and <ingredient>meat;</ingredient> the 
<ingredient>bones</ingredient> and <ingredient>meat</ingredient> should be of
about equal weight. It makes the soup more delicate to add 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> or <ingredient>veal.</ingredient> <variation>
<ingredient>Chicken</ingredient> and <ingredient>veal</ingredient> together
make a good soup, called <purpose rend="italic">blond de
veau.</purpose></variation> Good soup can be made, also, by using the 
<ingredient>trimmings of fresh meat,</ingredient> bits of cold cooked 
<ingredient>beef,</ingredient> or the <ingredient>bones of any meat or
fowl.</ingredient> In the choice of vegetables, 
<ingredient>onions</ingredient>(first fried or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d,</emph> and a 
<ingredient>clove</ingredient>stuck in), <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>carrots</ingredient> are oftenest used: 
<ingredient>turnips,</ingredient> <ingredient>parsnips,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>celery</ingredient> should be employed more sparingly. The soup
bunch at market is generally a very good distribution of vegetables. Nothing is
more simple than the process of making stock or broth. Remember not to let it
boil for the first half-hour; then it should simmer slowly and steadily, partly
covered, for four or five hours. In royal kitchens the stock is cooked by gas.
Skim frequently; as scum, if allowed to remain, gives an unpleasant flavor to
the soup. Use <ingredient>salt</ingredient> sparingly, putting in a little at
first, and seasoning at the last moment. Many a good soup is spoiled by an
injudicious use of <ingredient>seasoning.</ingredient> Some add a few drops of 
<ingredient>lemon-juice</ingredient> to a broth. If 
<ingredient>wine</ingredient> or <ingredient>catsup</ingredient> is added, it
should only be done at the last moment. Always strain the soup through a sieve
or <implement>soup-strainer.</implement> Small scraps of 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> or sediment look slovenly in a soup. Or,</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">A SIMPLE STOCK.</purpose>If you
have no vegetables (you should always have them, especially onions and carrots,
as they will keep), a very good stock can be made by employing the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> and <ingredient>bones</ingredient> alone,
seasoned with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> If rich enough, it might be served in this
manner. However, it is a simple thing, about fifteen minutes before dinner,
each day, to add a little boiled <ingredient>macaroni,</ingredient> fried 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> etc., to vary the soup.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">GOUFF&#233;'S RECEIPT FOR
STOCK, OR BOUILLON.</purpose>Three pounds of <ingredient>beef;</ingredient> one
pound of <ingredient>bone</ingredient> (about the quantity in that weight of 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient>); five and a half quarts of clear 
<ingredient>cold water;</ingredient> two ounces of 
<ingredient>salt;</ingredient> two <ingredient>carrots,</ingredient> say ten
ounces; <pb n="81" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=87"/> two large 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> say ten ounces, with two 
<ingredient>cloves</ingredient> stuck in them; six 
<ingredient>leeks,</ingredient> say fourteen ounces; one head of 
<ingredient>celery,</ingredient> say one ounce; two 
<ingredient>turnips,</ingredient> say ten ounces; one 
<ingredient>parsnip,</ingredient> say two ounces.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BOUILLON SERVED AT LUCHEONS,
GERMANS, ETC.</purpose>Purchase about six pounds of 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient> and <ingredient>bone</ingredient> (
<ingredient>soup bones</ingredient>) for ten persons. Cut up the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> and break the <ingredient>bones;</ingredient> add
two quarts of <ingredient>cold water,</ingredient> and simmer slowly until all
the strength is extracted from the <ingredient>meat.</ingredient> It will take
about five hours. Strain it though a fine sieve, removing every particle of
fat; and if there is more than ten cupfuls, reduce it by boiling to that
quantity. Season only with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
<p>It is served in <implement>bouillon cups</implement> at luncheons, at
evening companies, Germans, etc.</p>
<p>Sometimes it is served clear and transparent, after the receipt for Amber
Soup.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">AMBER SOUP, OR CLEAR
BROTH.</purpose>This soup is served at almost all company dinners. There can be
no better choice, as a heavy soup is not then desirable.</p>
<p>Ingredients: A large <ingredient>soup bone</ingredient> (say two pounds), a 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> a small slice of 
<ingredient>ham,</ingredient> a <ingredient>soup bunch</ingredient> (or an 
<ingredient>onion,</ingredient> two sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient>half a small <ingredient>carrot,</ingredient>
half a small <ingredient>parsnip,</ingredient> half a stick of 
<ingredient>celery</ingredient>), three <ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a gallon of 
<ingredient>cold water,</ingredient> <ingredient>whites and shells of two
eggs,</ingredient> and <ingredient>caramel</ingredient> for coloring.</p>
<p>Let the <ingredient>beef,</ingredient> <ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> and
<ingredient>ham</ingredient> boil slowly for five hours; add the vegetables and
<ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> to cook the last hour, having first fried the 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient> in a little hot <ingredient>fat,</ingredient>and
then in it stuck the <ingredient>cloves.</ingredient> Strain the soup into an
earthen bowl, and let it remain overnight. Next day remove the cake of fat on
the top; take out the jelly, avoiding the settlings, and mix into it the beaten
<ingredient>whites of the eggs with the shells.</ingredient> Boil quickly for
half a minute; then, placing the kettle on the hearth, skim off carefully all
the scum and <ingredient>whites of the eggs</ingredient> from the top, not
stirring the soup itself. Pass this through the <implement>jelly
bag,</implement> when it should be quite clear. The soup may then be put aside,
and reheated just before serving. Add then a large table-spoonful
<pb n="82" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=88"/> of <ingredient>caramel,</ingredient> as it gives
it a richer color, and also a slight flavor.</p>
<p>Of course, the brightest and cleanest of kettles should be used. I once saw
this transparent soup served in Paris, without color, but made quite thick with
<ingredient>tapioca.</ingredient> It looked very clear, and was exceedingly
nice.</p>
<p>This soup may be made in one day. After it is strained, add the 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient> and proceed as in receipt. However, if it is to
be served at a company dinner, it is more convenient to make it the day
before.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO MAKE CARAMEL, OR BURNED
SUGAR, FOR COLORING BROTH.</purpose>The appearance of broth is improved by
being of a rich amber color. The most innocent coloring substance, which does
not impair the flavor of the broth, is caramel, prepared as follows:</p>
<p>Put into a porcelain saucepan, say half a pound of 
<ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> and a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> Stir it constantly over the fire until it has a
bright, dark-brown color, being very careful not to let it burn or blacken.
Then add a tea-cupful of <ingredient>water</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>salt;</ingredient> let it boil a few moments longer; cool and
strain it. Put it away in a close-corked bottle, and it is always ready for
coloring soups.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">THICKENING FOR SOUP.</purpose>I
have before recommended the making of soup the day before it is served, as this
is the best means of having it entirely free from fat and settlings. Just
before it is served, it may be thickened with <ingredient>corn
starch,</ingredient> <ingredient>sago,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>tapioca,</ingredient> <ingredient>pearl barley,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>rice,</ingredient> etc. If a thickening of 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> is used, let it be a <ingredient
rend="italic">roux,</ingredient> mixed according to directions, page 51.
However, a rich stock jelly needs no thickening.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ADDITIONS TO BEEF STOCK, TO FORM
OTHER KINDS OF SOUP.</purpose>It is well, just before the <ingredient>beef
soup</ingredient> is sent to table, to drop into the 
<implement>tureen</implement> <ingredient>poached eggs,</ingredient> which have
been cooked in <ingredient>salted water,</ingredient> and neatly trimmed. There
may be an <ingredient>egg</ingredient> for each person at table. This is a
favorite soup in Havana. Or,</p><pb n="83" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=89"/>
<p><variation>Put into the <implement>tureen,</implement> just before the soup
is sent to table, slices of <ingredient>lemon</ingredient>--one slice for each
plate. Or,</variation></p>
<p><variation><ingredient>Yolks of hard-boiled eggs,</ingredient> one for each
person. Or,</variation></p>
<p><variation>Put into the <implement>tureen</implement> 
<ingredient rend="italic">cro&#251;tons</ingredient> or <ingredient>dice of
bread,</ingredient> say three quarters of an inch square, fried in a little 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> When frying, or rather 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;ing,</emph> turn them, that all sides may be
browned. They may be prepared several hours, if more convenient, before dinner;
then left near the fire, to become crisp and dry. This makes a very good soup,
and is also an excellent means of using <ingredient>dry bread.</ingredient> It
is a favorite French soup, called <purpose rend="italic">potage aux
cro&#251;tons.</purpose> Or,</variation></p>
<p><variation>Drop into the <implement>tureen</implement> 
<ingredient>force-meat balls.</ingredient></variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">RECEIPT FOR FORCE-MEAT
BALLS.</purpose>Take any kind of <ingredient>meat</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> or both (that used for making the soup will
answer); chop it very fine; season it with <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a little chopped 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> and <ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> or a
little <ingredient>parsley</ingredient> and fried 
<ingredient>onion,</ingredient> or with <ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> alone, a little 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> and grated peel. Break in a 
<ingredient>raw egg,</ingredient> and sprinkle over some 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient> roll them in balls the size of a pigeon's egg.
Fry or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> them in a little 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient> or they may be cooked in <ingredient>boiling
water;</ingredient> or they may be egged and bread-crumbed, and fried in
boiling <ingredient>lard.</ingredient> This is the most simple receipt. The
French take much trouble in making 
<emph rend="italic">quenelles,</emph> etc., for soup. Or,</p>
<p><variation>A simple and delicious addition is that of four or five
table-spoonfuls of stewed <ingredient>tomatoes.</ingredient></variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MACARONI SOUP</purpose>is only
an addition of <ingredient>macaroni</ingredient> to the 
<ingredient>stock-jelly.</ingredient> However, boil the 
<ingredient>macaroni</ingredient> first in <ingredient>salted
water.</ingredient> When done, drain it, and cut it into about two or three
inch lengths. Put these pieces into the soup when it is simmering on the fire,
then serve it a few minutes after. Many send, at the same time, a plate of 
<ingredient>grated cheese.</ingredient> This is passed, a spoon with it, after
the plates of soup are served, each person adding a spoonful of it to their
soup, if they choose. They probably will not choose it a second time.</p>
</recipe><pb n="84" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=90"/>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">VERMICELLI SOUP</purpose>is made
exactly as macaroni soup, only the <ingredient>vermicelli</ingredient> is not
cut, and, if 
<emph rend="italic">very little</emph> of it is used, it may be boiled in the
soup. Often the <ingredient>stock</ingredient> for 
<ingredient>vermicelli</ingredient> is preferred made of 
<ingredient>veal</ingredient> and <ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> instead of 
<ingredient>beef;</ingredient> however, either is very good. <ingredient>Grated
cheese</ingredient> may also be served with it.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p align="center"><purpose>NOODLES</purpose>(<attribution
rend="italic">Eleanore Bouillotat</attribution>).</p>
<p>Three delicious dishes may be made from this simple and economical receipt
for noodles:</p>
<p>To three <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> (slightly beaten), two
table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>water,</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> add enough <ingredient>flour</ingredient> to
make a rather stiff dough; work it well for fifteen or twenty minutes, as you
would dough for crackers, adding <ingredient>flour</ingredient> when necessary.
When pliable, cut off a portion at a time, roll it thin as a wafer, sprinkle
over <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and, beginning at one side, roll it into a
rather tight roll. With a sharp knife, cut it, from the end, into very thin
slices (one-eighth inch), forming little wheels or curls. Let them dry an hour
or so. Part may be used to serve as a vegetable, part for a noodle soup, and
the rest should be dried, to put one side to use at any time for a beef
soup.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading"><alt
synonym1="to serve noodles as a vegetable">TO SERVE AS A
VEGETABLE.</alt></purpose>Three cupfuls of fresh 
<ingredient>noodles,</ingredient> three quarts of <ingredient>salted boiled
water,</ingredient> <ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> size of an egg.</p>
<p>Throw a few of the noodles at a time into the <ingredient>boiling salted
water,</ingredient> and boil them until they are done, separating and shaking
them with a large fork to prevent them from matting together. Skin them out
when done, and keep them on a warm dish in a warm place until enough are cooked
in a similar manner. Now mix the <ingredient>butter</ingredient> (in which the
bread-crumbs were fried) evenly in them; put them on the platter on which they
are to be served, and sprinkle over the top 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs</ingredient> fried or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> in some hot 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> until they are of a light-brown color. This is
a very good dish to serve with a fish, or with almost any meat, or it can be
served as a course by itself; or the noodles can be cooked as macaroni, with 
<ingredient>cheese.</ingredient></p>
</recipe><pb n="85" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=91"/>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">NOODLE SOUP.</purpose>Add to the
<ingredient>water in which noodles were boiled,</ingredient> as in last
receipt, part of the <ingredient>butter</ingredient> in which the bread-crumbs
were 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d,</emph> a table-spoonful of chopped 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and two or three table-spoonfuls of the
cooked <ingredient>noodles.</ingredient> Season with more 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> if necessary. Serve.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEEF NOODLE SOUP.</purpose>Add
to a <ingredient>beef stock</ingredient> a small handful of fresh or dried 
<ingredient>noodles</ingredient> about twenty minutes before serving, which
will be long enough time to cook them.</p>
<p>Many varieties of soups may be made by adding different kinds of vegetables
to beef soup or stock. <ingredient>Cauliflower,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>cabbage,</ingredient> <ingredient>potatoes,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>asparagus</ingredient> are better boiled in separate 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> and added to the 
<implement>soup-tureen</implement> at the last moment. 
<ingredient>Onions,</ingredient> <ingredient>leeks,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>turnips,</ingredient> and <ingredient>carrots</ingredient> are
better fried to a light color in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan</implement> with a little 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> or <ingredient>clarified
grease,</ingredient>and added to the soup. In frying, it is better to accompany
the vegetable or vegetables with a little <ingredient>onion.</ingredient></p>
<p><variation>If you add more <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> more 
<ingredient>turnip,</ingredient> or more <ingredient>carrot</ingredient> than
any other vegetable, you have <purpose>onion, turnip, or carrot
soup.</purpose>I will specify a few combinations of vegetables.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups" occasion="spring">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SPRING SOUP.</purpose>A 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> with any <ingredient>spring
vegetables</ingredient> added which have first been parboiled in other 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> Those generally used are 
<ingredient>pease,</ingredient> <ingredient>asparagus-tops,</ingredient> or a
few young <ingredient>onions</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>leeks.</ingredient>This soup is often colored with 
<ingredient>caramel.</ingredient> Or,</p>
<p><variation>Here is <attribution>Francatelli's</attribution> receipt for
spring soup, a little simplified: Cut with a 
<implement>vegetable-cutter</implement> two <ingredient>carrots</ingredient>and
two <ingredient>turnips</ingredient> into little round shapes; add the white
part of a head of <ingredient>celery;</ingredient> twelve small young 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> sliced, without the green stalks; and one head
of <ingredient>cauliflower,</ingredient> cut into flowerets. Parboil these
vegetables for three minutes in <ingredient>boiling water.</ingredient> Drain,
and add them to two quarts of <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> made of 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> or <ingredient>beef</ingredient> (
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> is better). Let the whole simmer gently for
half an hour, then add<pb n="86" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=92"/> the <ingredient>white
leaves of a head-lettuce</ingredient> (cut the size of a half-dollar, with a
cutter). As soon as tender, and when about to send the soup to the table, add
half a gill of small <ingredient>green pease,</ingredient> and an equal
quantity of <ingredient>asparagus-heads,</ingredient> which have been
previously boiled in other <ingredient>water.</ingredient></variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p align="center"><purpose>JULIENNE SOUP, WITH POACHED
EGGS</purpose>(<attribution rend="italic">Dubois</attribution>).</p>
<p>Take two medium-sized <ingredient>carrots,</ingredient> a medium-sized 
<ingredient>turnip,</ingredient> a piece of <ingredient>celery,</ingredient>the
<ingredient>core of a lettuce,</ingredient> and an 
<ingredient>onion.</ingredient> Cut them into thin fillets about an inch long.
Fry the <ingredient>onion</ingredient> in <ingredient>butter</ingredient> over
a moderate fire, without allowing it to take color; add the 
<ingredient>carrots,</ingredient> <ingredient>turnips,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>celery</ingredient>--raw, if tender; if not, boil them separately
for a few minutes. After frying all slowly for a few moments, season with a
pinch of <ingredient>salt</ingredient> and a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>powdered-sugar.</ingredient> Then moisten them with a gill of 
<ingredient>broth,</ingredient> and boil until reduced to a glaze. Now add
nearly two quarts of good <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> which has been
skimmed and passed through a sieve, and remove the 
<implement>stew-pan</implement> to the back of the stove, so that the soup may
boil only partially. A quarter of an hour after add the 
<ingredient>lettuce</ingredient> (which has been boiled in other 
<ingredient>water</ingredient>), and a few raw <ingredient>sorrel
leaves,</ingredient> if they can be procured. This soup is quite good enough
without <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> yet they are a pleasant addition. Poach
them in <ingredient>salted water,</ingredient> trim them, and drop into the 
<implement>soup-tureen</implement> just as it is ready to send to the table.
Many color this soup with <ingredient>caramel.</ingredient> In that case, the 
<ingredient>sugar</ingredient> should be omitted.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ASPARAGUS
SOUP.</purpose>Ingredients: Three pints of <ingredient>beef soup or
stock,</ingredient> thirty heads of <ingredient>asparagus,</ingredient> a
little <ingredient>cream,</ingredient> <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>spinach.</ingredient></p>
<p>Cut the tops off the <ingredient>asparagus,</ingredient> about half an inch
long, and boil the rest. Cut off all the tender portions, and rub them through
a sieve, adding a little <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Warm three pints of 
<ingredient>stock,</ingredient> add a <ingredient
rend="italic">roux</ingredient> made of a small piece of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> and a heaping tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> then add the <ingredient>asparagus
pulp.</ingredient> Boil it slowly a quarter of an hour, stirring in two or
three table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>cream.</ingredient> Color the soup with a
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>spinach green,</ingredient> and, just before
serving it, add the <ingredient>asparagus-tops,</ingredient> which have been
separately boiled.</p><pb n="87" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=93"/>
<p><variation>Many like this soup, but I prefer simply boiled 
<ingredient>asparagus-points</ingredient> added to 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> or <ingredient>beef soup,</ingredient> just
before serving.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SPINACH GREEN.</purpose>Pound
some <ingredient>spinach</ingredient> well, adding a few drops of 
<ingredient>water;</ingredient> squeeze the juice through a cloth, and put it
on a strong fire. As soon as it looks curdy, take it off, and strain the liquor
through a sieve. What remains on the sieve will be coloring matter.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">OX-TAIL SOUP.</purpose>
<ingredient>Ox-tails</ingredient> make an especially good soup, on account of
the gelatinous matter they contain.</p>
<p>Ingredients: Two <ingredient>ox-tails,</ingredient> a <ingredient>soup
bunch,</ingredient> or a good-sized <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> two 
<ingredient>carrots,</ingredient> one stalk of 
<ingredient>celery,</ingredient>a little <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and
a small cut of <ingredient>pork.</ingredient></p>
<p>Cut the <ingredient>ox-tails</ingredient> at the joints, slice the
vegetables, and mince the <ingredient>pork.</ingredient> Put the 
<ingredient>pork</ingredient> into a <implement>stew-pan.</implement> When hot,
add first the <ingredient>onions;</ingredient> when they begin to color, add
the <ingredient>ox-tails.</ingredient> Let them fry or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> aa very short time. Now cut them to the
bone, that the juice may run out in boiling. Put both the 
<ingredient>ox-tails</ingredient> and fried <ingredient>onions</ingredient>into
a <implement>soup kettle,</implement> with four quarts of <ingredient>cold
water.</ingredient> Let them simmer for about four hours; then add the other
vegetables, with three <ingredient>cloves</ingredient> stuck in a little piece
of <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> and <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> As soon as the vegetables are well cooked, the
soup is done. Strain it. Select some of the joints (one for each plate), trim
them, and serve them with the soup. Or, if preferred, the joints may be left
out.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p align="center"><purpose>CHICKEN SOUP (<emph rend="italic">Potage &#224; la
Reine</emph>).</purpose>--<attribution
rend="italic">Francatelli.</attribution></p>
<p>Roast a large <ingredient>chicken.</ingredient> Clear all the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> from the bones, chop, and pound it thoroughly
with a quarter of a pound of boiled <ingredient>rice.</ingredient> Put the 
<ingredient>bones</ingredient> (broken) and the 
<ingredient>skin</ingredient>into two quarts of <ingredient>cold
water.</ingredient> Let it simmer for some time, when it will make a weak
broth. Strain it, and add it to the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>rice.</ingredient> Now press this all through a sieve, and put it
away until dinner-time. Take off the grease on top; heat it without boiling,
and, just before sending to table, mix into it a gill of boiling 
<ingredient>cream.</ingredient> Season carefully with
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
</recipe><pb n="88" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=94"/>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p
align="center"><purpose>PUR&#233;e OF CHICKEN</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Giuseppe Romantii</attribution>).<lb/><attribution
size="smaller">Chef de Cuisine of the Cooking-school in New
York.</attribution></p>
<p>Ingredients: One and a half pounds of <ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> one
and a half quarts of <ingredient>white stock</ingredient> (made with 
<ingredient>veal</ingredient>), half a sprig of 
<ingredient>thyme,</ingredient>two sprigs of <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient>
half a blade of <ingredient>mace,</ingredient> one 
<ingredient>shallot,</ingredient> a quarter of a pound of 
<ingredient>rice,</ingredient> and half a pint of 
<ingredient>cream.</ingredient></p>
<p>Roast the <ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> and when cold cut off all the
flesh; put the <ingredient>bones</ingredient> into the <ingredient>white
stock,</ingredient> together with the <ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>mace,</ingredient> <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>shallot,</ingredient> and washed <ingredient>rice;</ingredient>boil
it until the <ingredient>rice</ingredient> is very thoroughly cooked. In the
mean time, chop the <ingredient>chicken;</ingredient> pound it in a 
<implement>mortar;</implement> then pass it though a sieve or 
<implement>colander,</implement> helping the operation by moistening it with a
little of the <ingredient>stock.</ingredient> Strain the balance of the 
<ingredient>stock,</ingredient> allowing the <ingredient>rice</ingredient> to
pass through the sieve.</p>
<p>Half an hour before dinner, add the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> to the 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> and heat it 
<emph rend="italic">without boiling.</emph> Just before serving, add to it half
a pint of boiling <ingredient>cream.</ingredient> Season with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> an <ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">PLAIN CHICKEN SOUP.</purpose>Cut
up the <ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> and break all the 
<ingredient>bones;</ingredient> put it in a gallon of <ingredient>cold
water;</ingredient> let it simmer for five hours, skimming it well. The last
hour add, to cook with the soup, a cupful of <ingredient>rice</ingredient> and
a sprig of <ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> When done, let the kettle remain
quiet a few moments on the kitchen table, when skim off every particle of fat
with a spoon. Then pour all on a sieve placed over some deep dish. Take out all
the <ingredient>bones,</ingredient> pieces of <ingredient>meat,</ingredient>and
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> Press the 
<ingredient>rice</ingredient>through the sieve. Now mix the 
<ingredient>rice,</ingredient> by stirring it with the soup, until it resembles
a smooth 
<emph rend="italic">pur&#233;e.</emph> Season with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">GIBLET SOUP.</purpose>This soup
is a great success. It is very inexpensive, a plate of 
<ingredient>giblets</ingredient> only costing at market five cents. It is a
very good imitation of mock-turtle soup, and, after the first experience in
making, it will found very easy to manage.</p>
<p>Ingredients: The <ingredient>giblets of four chickens or two
turkeys,</ingredient> one medium-sized <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> one
small <ingredient>carrot,</ingredient> half a 
<ingredient>turnip,</ingredient>two<pb n="89" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=95"/>sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> a leaf of <ingredient>sage,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> a little <ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>Port or Madeira wine,</ingredient> and one or two cupfuls of 
<ingredient>chicken or beef stock,</ingredient> quite strong.</p>
<p>Cut up the vegetables. Put a piece of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the
size of a small egg into a <implement>stew-pan.</implement> When quite hot,
throw in the sliced <ingredient>onion.</ingredient> When they begin to brown,
add the <ingredient>carrot</ingredient> and <ingredient>turnip,</ingredient> a
table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and the 
<ingredient>giblets.</ingredient> Fry them all quickly for a minute, watching
them constantly, that the <ingredient>flour</ingredient> may brown, and not
burn. Now cut the <ingredient>giblets</ingredient> (that the juice may escape),
and put all into the <implement>soup-kettle,</implement> with a little 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and three
quarts of <ingredient>water</ingredient>--of course, 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> would be much better, and for extra occasions I
would recommend it; or without <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> one could add
any fresh <ingredient>bones</ingredient> or scraps of <ingredient>lean
meat</ingredient> one might happen to have. Pieces of 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> are especially well adapted to this soup; yet,
for ordinary occasions, <ingredient>giblets</ingredient> alone answer very
well.</p>
<p>Let the soup simmer for five hours; then strain it. Thicken it a little with
<ingredient rend="italic">roux</ingredient> (page 51), letting the 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> brown, and add to it also one of the 
<ingredient>livers</ingredient> mashed. Season with the additional 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> it needs, a
little <ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> and two table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>Port or Madeira wine.</ingredient> Put into the <implement>soup
tureen</implement> <ingredient>yolks of hard-boiled eggs,</ingredient> one for
each person at table. Pour over the soup, and serve.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p align="center"><purpose>MOCK-TURTLE SOUP</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">New York Cooking-school</attribution>).</p>
<p>Let some one beside yourself remove the flesh from a <ingredient>calf's
head,</ingredient> viz., cut from between the ears to the nose, touching the
bone; then, cutting close to it, take off all the flesh. Turn over the 
<ingredient>head,</ingredient> cut open the jaw-bones from underneath, and take
out the <ingredient>tongue</ingredient> whole. Turn the 
<ingredient>head</ingredient> back again, crack the top of the skull between
the ears, and take out the brains whole; they may be saved for a separate dish.
Soak all separately for a few moments in <ingredient>salt and
water.</ingredient> Cut the skull all to pieces, wash it quickly, and put it on
the fire in four quarts of <ingredient>cold water,</ingredient> together with
the flesh, <ingredient>tongue,</ingredient> half a bunch of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> half a stalk of 
<ingredient>celery,</ingredient> one large 
<ingredient>bay-leaf,</ingredient>three <ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> half
an inch of a stick of <ingredient>cinnamon,</ingredient> six whole 
<ingredient>allspice,</ingredient>six <ingredient>pepper-corns,</ingredient>
half of a large <ingredient>carrot,</ingredient> and one 
<ingredient>turnip.</ingredient> When the <ingredient>tongue</ingredient> is
tender,<pb n="90" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=96"/>take it out, to be served as a separate
dish (with <ingredient>spinach</ingredient> or with <ingredient
rend="italic">sauce Tartare</ingredient>). Leave in the flesh for about two
hours, when it will be perfectly tender. Let the 
<ingredient>bones,</ingredient> etc., simmer for six hours, then strain, and
put it away until the next day.</p>
<p>At the same time that the <ingredient>calf's head</ingredient> is cooking in
one vessel, make a <ingredient>stock</ingredient> in another, with a 
<ingredient>beef or veal soup-bone</ingredient> (two or three pounds), and any 
<ingredient>scraps of poultry</ingredient> (it would be improved with a 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> added; and one might take this opportunity to
have a boiled <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> for dinner, cooking it in the 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient>), put into two or three quarts of 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> and simmered until reduced to a pint.</p>
<p>The next day, remove the fat and settlings from the two stocks.</p>
<p>Put into a two-quart <implement>stew-pan</implement> two ounces of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> (size of an egg), and, when it bubbles, stir in
an ounce of <ingredient>ham</ingredient> cut in strips, and one heaping
table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> (one and a half ounces). Stir
it constantly until it gets quite brown, pour the reduced 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> over it, mix it well, and strain it.</p>
<p>Now to half a pound of the <ingredient>calf's head</ingredient> cut in dice
add one quart of the <ingredient>calf's-head stock</ingredient> boiling hot and
the pint of reduced and thickened <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> the 
<ingredient>juice of half a lemon,</ingredient> and one glassful of 
<ingredient>sherry.</ingredient> When it is about to boil, set it one side, and
skim it very carefully. Add the flesh cut from the 
<ingredient>head,</ingredient> cut in dice, and two <ingredient>hard-boiled
eggs</ingredient> cut in dice, and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Or,</p>
<p><variation><purpose rend="italic">Receipt for Egg-balls.</purpose>--If,
instead of the egg-dice, egg-balls should be preferred, add to the 
<ingredient>yolks of two hard-boiled eggs</ingredient> the <ingredient>raw yolk
of one egg,</ingredient> one table-spoonful of <ingredient>melted
butter,</ingredient> a little <ingredient>salt</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and enough sifted 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> to make it consistent enough to handle. Sprinkle
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> on the board, roll it out about half an inch
thick, cut it into dice, and roll each one into little balls in the palm of the
hand. Put these into the soup five minutes before it is served, to cook.
Or,</variation></p>
<p><variation><purpose rend="italic">Receipt for Meat-balls.</purpose>--If,
instead of meat-dice, meat-balls should be preferred, to three-fourths of a
cupful of the <ingredient>head-meat,</ingredient> chopped very fine, add a
pinch of <ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> the <ingredient>grated peel of half a
lemon,</ingredient> one <ingredient>raw egg,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> enough to bind all together. Form into little
balls the size of a hickory-nut; 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> them in a little hot 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> Or,</variation></p>
<pb n="91" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=97"/>
<p>It is very nice to add, instead of egg-balls, whole <ingredient>yolks of
hard-boiled eggs,</ingredient> one for each plate.</p>
<p>The brains may be used for making croquettes (page 176), or as in receipt
(page 151).</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">A SIMPLE MOCK-TURTLE
SOUP.</purpose>Put four <ingredient>pig's feet,</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>calf's head,</ingredient> and one pound of 
<ingredient>veal</ingredient> into four quarts of <ingredient>cold
water,</ingredient> and let it simmer for five hours, reducing it to two
quarts. Strain it, and let it remain overnight. The next day skim off the fat
from the top, and remove the settlings from the bottom.</p>
<p>About half an hour before dinner put the soup on the fire, and season it
with half a tea-spoonful of powdered <ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> a
salt-spoonful of <ingredient>mace,</ingredient> a salt-spoonful of ground 
<ingredient>cloves.</ingredient> Simmer it for ten minutes. Now take a 
<ingredient rend="italic">roux</ingredient> in a saucepan, viz.; put in one
ounce of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> (size of a walnut), and, when it
bubbles, sprinkle in one and a half ounces of 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient>(one table-spoonful). Stir it until the 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> assumes a light-brown color; add the soup, and
stir all together with the <implement>egg-whisk.</implement></p>
<p>Make <ingredient>force-meat balls</ingredient> as follows: Chop some of the 
<ingredient>veal</ingredient> (used to make the soup), and about a quarter as
much <ingredient>suet,</ingredient> very fine; season it with 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> and <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and a few
drops of <ingredient>lemon-juice;</ingredient> bind all together with some 
<ingredient>raw yolks of eggs</ingredient> and some <ingredient>cracker or
bread crumbs;</ingredient> mold them into little balls about the size of a
pigeon's egg, or smaller, if preferred. Fry them in boiling 
<ingredient>lard,</ingredient> or boil them two or three minutes in 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> Cut up also some of the 
<ingredient>meat,</ingredient> or rather <ingredient>skin</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>cartilaginous substance,</ingredient> from the cold 
<ingredient>feet,</ingredient> which resembles turtle meat. Now put into the 
<implement>soup-tureen</implement> these 
<ingredient>meat-balls,</ingredient>pieces of <ingredient>calf's
feet,</ingredient> and some <ingredient>yolks</ingredient> entire, or slices of
<ingredient>hard-boiled eggs.</ingredient> Season the soup the last minute with
a little <ingredient>lemon-juice</ingredient> and one or two table-spoonfuls of
<ingredient>sherry.</ingredient></p>
<p>For a small family, this will make soup enough for two dinners.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">GUMBO
SOUP.</purpose>Ingredients: One large <ingredient>chicken;</ingredient> one and
a half pints of <ingredient>green gumbo,</ingredient> or one pint of 
<ingredient>dried gumbo;</ingredient> three pints of 
<ingredient>water;</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p><pb n="92" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=98"/>
<p>Cut the <ingredient>chickens</ingredient> into joints, roll them in 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and fry or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> them in a little 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient> Take out the pieces of 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> and put in the sliced 
<ingredient>gumbo</ingredient> (either the green or the dried), and 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> that also until it is brown. Drain well
the <ingredient>chickens</ingredient> and <ingredient>gumbo.</ingredient> There
should be about a table-spoonful of brown <ingredient>fat</ingredient> left in
the <implement><emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan;</implement> to this
add a large table-spoonful of <ingredient>browned flour;</ingredient> and add
the three pints of <ingredient>water,</ingredient> the 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> cut into small pieces, and the 
<ingredient>gumbo.</ingredient> Simmer all together two hours. Strain through a
<implement>colander.</implement> Serve boiled <ingredient>rice</ingredient> in
another dish by the side of the <implement>soup-tureen.</implement> Having put
a ladleful of the soup in the <implement>soup-plate,</implement> place a
table-spoonful of <ingredient>rice</ingredient> in the centre.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">GUMBO AND TOMATO
SOUP.</purpose>If <ingredient>canned gumbo</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient> mixed are used, merely add to them a pint or
more of <ingredient>stock</ingredient> or strong <ingredient>beef
broth.</ingredient> Bring them to the boiling-point, and season with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
<p>If the fresh vegetables are used, boil the 
<ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient>and <ingredient>gumbo</ingredient> together
for about half an hour, first frying the <ingredient>gumbo</ingredient> in a
little hot <ingredient>lard.</ingredient> Many, however, boil the 
<ingredient>gumbo</ingredient> without frying.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups" ethnicgroup="indian">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MULLAGATAWAY SOUP (<emph
rend="italic">an Indian soup</emph>).</purpose>Cut up a 
<ingredient>chicken;</ingredient> put it into a 
<implement>soup-kettle,</implement> with a little sliced 
<ingredient>onion,</ingredient> <ingredient>carrot,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>celery,</ingredient> <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and three or
four <ingredient>cloves.</ingredient> Cover it with four quarts of 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> Add any pieces of 
<ingredient>veal,</ingredient> with the <ingredient>bones,</ingredient> you may
have; of course, a <ingredient>knuckle of veal</ingredient> would be the proper
thing. When the pieces of <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> are nearly done,
take them out, and trim them neatly, to serve with the soup. Let the 
<ingredient>veal</ingredient> continue to simmer for three hours.</p>
<p>Now fry an <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> a small 
<ingredient>carrot,</ingredient> and a stick of 
<ingredient>celery</ingredient>sliced, in a little 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> When they are a light brown, throw in a
table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> stir it on the fire one or
two minutes; then add a good tea-spoonful of <ingredient>curry
powder,</ingredient> and the <ingredient>chicken and veal
broth.</ingredient>Place this on the fire to simmer the usual way for an hour.
Half an hour before dinner, strain the soup, skim off all the fat, return it to
the fire with the pieces of <ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> and two or three
table-spoonfuls of boiled <ingredient>rice.</ingredient> This will give time
enough to cook the <ingredient>chickens</ingredient> thoroughly.</p>
</recipe><pb n="93" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=99"/>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">OYSTER SOUP.</purpose>To one
quart, or twenty-five <ingredient>oysters,</ingredient> add a half pint of 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> Put the <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> on the
fire in the liquor. The moment it begins to simmer (not 
<emph rend="italic">boil,</emph> for that would shrivel the 
<ingredient>oysters</ingredient>), pour it through a 
<implement>colander</implement> into a hot dish, leaving the 
<ingredient>oysters</ingredient> in the <implement>colander.</implement> Now
put into the saucepan two ounces of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> (size of an
egg); when it bubbles, sprinkle in a table-spoonful (one ounce) of sifted 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> let the 
<emph rend="italic">roux</emph> cook a few moments, stirring it well with the 
<implement>egg-whisk;</implement> then add to it gradually the 
<ingredient>oyster-juice,</ingredient> and half a pint of good 
<ingredient>cream</ingredient> (which has been brought to boil in another
vessel); season carefully with <ingredient>Cayenne pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt;</ingredient> skim well, then add the 
<ingredient>oysters.</ingredient> Do not let it boil, but serve immediately. An
oyster soup is made with <ingredient>thickening;</ingredient> an oyster stew is
made without it (see receipt).</p>
<p><ingredient>Oyster crackers</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>pickles</ingredient> are often served with an oyster soup.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CLAM SOUP.</purpose>To extract
the <ingredient>clams</ingredient> from the shells, wash them in 
<ingredient>cold water,</ingredient> and put them all into a large pot over the
fire, containing half a cupful of <ingredient>boiling water;</ingredient> cover
closely, and the steam will cause the <ingredient>clams</ingredient> to open;
pour all into a <implement>colander</implement> over a pan, and extract the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> from the shells.</p>
<p>Put a quart of the <ingredient>clams</ingredient> with their liquor on the
fire, with a pint of <ingredient>water;</ingredient> boil them about three
minutes, during which time skim them well, then strain them. Beard them, and
return the liquor to the fire, with the hard portions of the 
<ingredient>clams</ingredient> (keeping the soft portions aside in a warm
place), half an <ingredient>onion</ingredient> (one ounce), a sprig of 
<ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> three or four sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and one large blade of 
<ingredient>mace;</ingredient> cover it, and let it simmer for half an
hour.</p>
<p>In the mean time make a <ingredient rend="italic">roux,</ingredient> 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> put three ounces of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> (size of an egg) into a 
<implement>stew-pan,</implement> and when it bubbles sprinkle in two ounces of 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> (one heaping table-spoonful); stir it on the
fire until cooked, and then stir in gradually a pint of hot 
<ingredient>cream;</ingredient> add this to the <ingredient>clam
liquor</ingredient> (strained), with a seasoning of 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> and a little <ingredient>Cayenne
pepper;</ingredient> also the soft <ingredient>clams,</ingredient> without
<pb n="94" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=100"/> chopping them. When well mixed, and thoroughly
hot (without boiling), serve immediately.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEAN SOUP.</purpose>Soak a quart
of <ingredient>navy beans</ingredient> overnight. Then put them on the fire,
with three quarts of <ingredient>water;</ingredient> three 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> fried or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> in a little 
<ingredient>butter;</ingredient> one little <ingredient>carrot;</ingredient>two
<ingredient>potatoes,</ingredient> partly boiled in other 
<ingredient>butter;</ingredient> a small cut of <ingredient>pork;</ingredient>a
little <ingredient>red pepper,</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient>
Let it all boil slowly for five or six hours. Pass it then through a 
<implement>colander</implement> or sieve. Return the pulp to the fire; season
properly with <ingredient>salt</ingredient> and <ingredient>Cayenne
pepper.</ingredient> Put into the <implement>tureen</implement> 
<ingredient rend="italic">cro&#251;tons,</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>bread,</ingredient>cut in half-inch squares, and fried brown on all
sides in a little <ingredient>butter</ingredient> or in boiling 
<ingredient>fat.</ingredient>Professor Blot adds 
<ingredient>broth,</ingredient> <ingredient>bacon,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> <ingredient>celery,</ingredient> one or two 
<ingredient>cloves,</ingredient>and <ingredient>carrot</ingredient> to his bean
soup. A French cook I once had added a little <ingredient>mustard</ingredient>
to her bean soup, which made a pleasant change. Another cook adds 
<ingredient>cream</ingredient> at the last moment. Or,</p>
<p><variation>A very good bean soup can be made from the remains of 
<ingredient>baked beans;</ingredient> the brown <ingredient>baked
beans</ingredient> giving it a good color. Merely add 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> and a bit of <ingredient>onion;</ingredient>boil
it to a pulp, and pass it through the 
<implement>colander.</implement></variation></p>
<p>If a little <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> or some 
<ingredient>bones</ingredient> or pieces of fresh 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient>are at hand, they add also to the flavor of bean
soup.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEAN AND TOMATO SOUP.</purpose>A
pint of <ingredient>canned tomatoes,</ingredient> boiled, and passed through
the sieve, with a quart of <ingredient>bean soup,</ingredient> makes a very
pleasant change.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ONION SOUP (<emph
rend="italic">Soupe &#224; l'Ognon</emph>).</purpose>A soup without meat, and
delicious.</p>
<p>I was taught how to make this soup by a Frenchwoman; and it will be found a
valuable addition to one's culinary knowledge. It is a good Friday soup.</p>
<p>Put into a saucepan <ingredient>butter</ingredient> size of a pigeon's egg. 
<ingredient>Clarified grease,</ingredient> or the cakes of 
<ingredient>fat</ingredient> saved from the top of stock, or soup (I always use
the latter), answer about as well. When very hot, add two or three large 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> sliced thin; stir, and cook them
<pb n="95" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=101"/> well until they are red; then add a full
half-tea-cupful of <ingredient>flour.</ingredient> Stir this also until it is
red, watching it constantly, that it does not burn. Now pour in about a pint of
<ingredient>boiling water,</ingredient> and add 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient>and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Mix it well,
and let it boil a minute; then pour it into the 
<implement>soup-kettle,</implement> and place it at the back of the range until
almost ready to serve. Add then one and a half pints or a quart of boiling 
<ingredient>milk,</ingredient> and two or three well-mashed boiled 
<ingredient>potatoes.</ingredient> Add to the <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient>
a little of the soup at first, then more, until they are smooth, and thin
enough to put into the <implement>soup-kettle.</implement> Stir all well and
smoothly together; taste, to see if the soup is properly seasoned with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient>and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> as it
requires plenty, especially of the latter. Let it simmer a few moments. Put
pieces of <ingredient>toasted bread</ingredient> (a good way of using 
<ingredient>dry bread</ingredient>), cut in diamond shape, in the bottom of the
<implement>tureen.</implement> Pour over the soup, and serve very hot. Or,</p>
<p><variation>This soup might be made without potatoes, if more convenient,
using more <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and all 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> instead of a little 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> However, it is better with the potato addition;
or it is much improved by adding <ingredient>stock</ingredient> instead of 
<ingredient>water;</ingredient> or, if one should chance to have a boiled 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> the <ingredient>water</ingredient> in which
it was boiled might be saved to make this soup.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT MEAT
(<emph rend="italic">Pur&#233;e aux L&#233;gumes</emph>).</purpose>Cut up a
large plateful of any and all kinds of vegetables one happens to have; for
example, <ingredient>onions,</ingredient> <ingredient>carrots,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> (boiled in other 
<ingredient>water</ingredient>), <ingredient>beans</ingredient> (of any kind), 
<ingredient>parsnips,</ingredient> <ingredient>celery,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>pease,</ingredient> <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>leeks,</ingredient> <ingredient>turnips,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>cauliflower,</ingredient> <ingredient>spinach,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>cabbage,</ingredient> etc., always having either 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> or <ingredient>beans</ingredient> for a
thickening. First put into a saucepan half a tea-cupful of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> (<ingredient>clarified suet</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>stock-pot fat</ingredient> is just as good). When it is very hot,
put in first the cut-up <ingredient>onions.</ingredient> Stir them well, to
prevent from burning. When they assume a fine red color, stir in a large
table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> until it has the same color.
Now stir in a pint of <ingredient>hot water,</ingredient> and some 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Mind not to
add <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> at first,
as the <ingredient>onions</ingredient> and <ingredient>flour</ingredient> would
then more readily burn. Add, also, all the other vegetables. Let them simmer
(adding more <ingredient>hot water</ingredient> when necessary) for two hours;
then press them through a <implement>colander.</implement> Return them to 
<pb n="96" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=102"/> the range in a 
<implement>soup-kettle,</implement> and let them simmer until the moment of
serving.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CORN SOUP.</purpose>This is a
very good soup, made with either <ingredient>fresh or canned
corn.</ingredient>When it is fresh, cut the <ingredient>corn</ingredient> from
the cob, and scrape off well all that sweetest part of the 
<ingredient>corn</ingredient>which remains on the cob. To a pint of 
<ingredient>corn</ingredient> add a quart of <ingredient>hot
water.</ingredient> Boil it for an hour or longer; then press it through the 
<implement>colander.</implement> Put into the saucepan 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of a small egg, and when it bubbles
sprinkle in a heaping table-spoonful of sifted <ingredient>flour,</ingredient>
which cook a minute, stirring it well. Now add half of the <ingredient>corn
pulp,</ingredient> and, when smoothly mixed, stir in the remainder of the 
<ingredient>corn:</ingredient> add <ingredient>Cayenne pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a scant pint of boiling 
<ingredient>milk,</ingredient> and a cupful of 
<ingredient>cream.</ingredient></p>
<p>This soup is very nice with no more addition, as it will have the pure taste
of the <ingredient>corn;</ingredient> yet many add the <ingredient>yolks of two
eggs</ingredient> just before serving, mixed with a little 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> or <ingredient>cream,</ingredient> and not
allowed to boil. Others add a table-spoonful of <ingredient>tomato
catsup.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TOMATO SOUP, WITH
RICE.</purpose>Cut half a small <ingredient>onion</ingredient> into rather
coarse slices, and fry them in a little hot <ingredient>butter</ingredient> in
a <implement><emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan.</implement> Add to
them then a quart can, or ten or eleven large <ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient>
cut in pieces, after having skinned them, and also two sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> Let it cook about ten minutes, when remove
the pieces of <ingredient>onion</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> Pass the 
<ingredient>tomato</ingredient>through a sieve. Put into the 
<implement>stew-pan</implement> <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of a
pigeon's egg, and when it bubbles sprinkle in a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> when it has cooked a minute, stir in the 
<ingredient>tomato-pulp:</ingredient> season with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> It is an
improvement to add a cupful or more of <ingredient>stock;</ingredient> however,
if it is not at hand, it may be omitted.</p>
<p>Return the soup to the fire, and, when quite hot, add a cupful of
fresh-boiled <ingredient>rice</ingredient> and half a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>soda.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p align="center"><purpose>TOMATO SOUP (<emph rend="italic">Pur&#233;e aux
Tomatoes</emph>).</purpose>--<attribution rend="italic">Mrs.
Crobett.</attribution></p>
<p>Boil a dozen or a can of <ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient> until they are
very thoroughly cooked, and press them through a sieve. To a quart 
<pb n="97" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=103"/> of <ingredient>tomato pulp</ingredient> add a
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>soda.</ingredient> Put into a saucepan 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of a pigeon's egg, and when it bubbles
sprinkle and stir in a heaping tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient>When it is cooked, stir into this a pint of hot 
<ingredient>milk,</ingredient>a little <ingredient>Cayenne pepper,</ingredient>
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a handful of <ingredient>cracker
crumbs.</ingredient> When it boils, add the <ingredient>tomato
pulp.</ingredient> Heat it well without boiling, and serve immediately.</p>
<p>The <ingredient>soda</ingredient> mixed with the 
<ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient> prevents the 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient>from curdling.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SORREL SOUP (<emph
rend="italic">Soupe &#224; la Bonne Femme</emph>).</purpose>This is a most
wholesome soup, which would be popular in America if it were better known. It
is much used in France. <ingredient>Sorrel</ingredient> can be obtained, in
season, at all the French markets in America.</p>
<p>For four quarts of soup, put into a saucepan a piece of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of an egg, two or three sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> two or three leaves of 
<ingredient>lettuce,</ingredient> one <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> and a
pint of <ingredient>sorrel</ingredient> (all finely chopped), a little 
<ingredient>nutmeg,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Cover, and let them cook or sweat ten minutes;
then add about two table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>flour.</ingredient> Mix well,
and gradually add three quarts of <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> (
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> would be better). Make a 
<emph rend="italic">liaison, i.e.,</emph> beat the <ingredient>yolks of four
eggs</ingredient> (one <ingredient>egg</ingredient> to a quart of soup), and
mix with them a cupful of <ingredient>cream</ingredient> or <ingredient>rich
milk.</ingredient></p>
<p>Add a little <ingredient><alt
synonym1="chervil">chevril</alt></ingredient>(if you have it) to the soup; let
it boil ten minutes; then stir in the <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> or 
<emph rend="italic">liaison,</emph> when the soup is quite ready.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">POTATO SOUP (No.
1).</purpose>Fry seven or eight <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> and a small
sliced <ingredient>onion</ingredient> in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan</implement> in some 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> or <ingredient>drippings</ingredient>--
<ingredient>stock-pot fat</ingredient> is most excellent for this purpose. When
they are a little colored, put them into two or three pints of <ingredient>hot
water</ingredient> (<ingredient>stock</ingredient> would, of course, be better;
yet <ingredient>hot water</ingredient> is oftenest used); add also a large
heaping table-spoonful of chopped <ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> Let it boil
until the <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> are quite soft. Put all through the
<implement>colander.</implement> Return the 
<emph rend="italic">Pur&#233;e</emph> to the fire, and let it simmer two or
three minutes. When just ready to serve, take the kettle off the fire; add
plenty of <ingredient>salt</ingredient> and <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient>and
the beaten <ingredient>yolks of two or three eggs.</ingredient> Do not let the
soup boil when the <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> are in, as they would
curdle.</p>
</recipe><pb n="98" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=104"/>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">POTATO SOUP (No. 2).</purpose>A
very good soup for one which seems to have nothing in it.</p>
<p>Peel and cut up four rather large <ingredient>potatoes.</ingredient> When
they are nearly done, pour off the <ingredient>water,</ingredient> and add one
quart of <ingredient>hot water.</ingredient> Boil two hours, or until the 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> are thoroughly dissolved in the 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> Add fresh <ingredient>boiling
water</ingredient> as it boils away. When done, run it through the 
<implement>colander,</implement> adding three-fourths of a cupful of hot 
<ingredient>cream,</ingredient> a large table-spoonful of finely cut 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>pepper.</ingredient> Bring it to the boiling point, and serve.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">PUR&#233;E OF
STRING-BEANS.</purpose>Make a strong <ingredient>stock</ingredient> as follows:
Add to a <ingredient>knuckle of veal</ingredient> three quarts of 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> a generous slice of <ingredient>salt
pork,</ingredient> and two or three slices of 
<ingredient>onion.</ingredient>Let it simmer for five hours, the pour it
through a sieve or <implement>colander</implement> into a jar. It is better to
make this <ingredient>stock</ingredient> the day before it is served, as then
every particle of fat may be easily scraped off the jelly.</p>
<p>Ten minutes before dinner, put into a saucepan two ounces of 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient> and when it bubbles sprinkle in four ounces of
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> (two heaping table-spoonfuls); let it cook
without taking color; then add a cupful of hot <ingredient>cream,</ingredient>a
pint of the heated <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> and about a pint of 
<ingredient>green string-bean pulp,</ingredient> 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> either <ingredient>fresh or canned
string-beans</ingredient> boiled tender with a little 
<ingredient>pork,</ingredient> then pressed through a 
<implement>colander,</implement> and freed from juice. After mixing all
together, do not let the soup boil, or it will curdle and spoil. Stir it
constantly while it is on the fire.</p>
<p>Just before it is sent to table, sprinkle over the top a handful of little
fried <ingredient>fritter-beans.</ingredient> They are made by dropping 
<emph rend="italic">drops </emph> of <ingredient>fritter
batter</ingredient>into boiling <ingredient>lard.</ingredient> They will
resemble <ingredient>navy-beans,</ingredient> and give a very pleasant flavor
and appearance to the soup.</p>
<p>If this pretty addition be considered too much trouble, little 
<ingredient>dice of fried bread</ingredient> (<ingredient
rend="italic">cro&#251;tons</ingredient>) may be added instead. The soup
should be rather thick, and served quite hot.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BISQUE OF
LOBSTERS.</purpose>This soup is made exactly like the 
<emph rend="italic">Pur&#233;e</emph> of string beans, with the 
<ingredient>veal stock</ingredient> and thickened 
<ingredient>cream,</ingredient> except that, in place of the
<pb n="99" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=105"/> string-bean pulp, the soup is now flavored and
colored with the <ingredient>coral of lobster,</ingredient> dried in the oven,
and pounded fine. This gives it a beautiful pink color. Little dice of the
boiled <ingredient>lobster</ingredient> are then to be added. The 
<ingredient>lobster-dice</ingredient> may or may not be marinated before they
are added to the soup, 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> sprinkled with a mixture of one table-spoonful
of <ingredient>oil,</ingredient> three table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>vinegar,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and left for two or three hours in the marinade.
Season the soup with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">FISH.</hd>
<p>IF a fish is not perfectly fresh, perfectly cleaned, and thoroughly cooked,
it is not eatable. It should be cleaned or drawn as soon as it comes from
market, then put on the ice until the time of cooking. It should not be soaked,
for it impairs the flavor, unless it is frozen, when it should be put into
ice-cold water to thaw; or unless it is a salted fish, when it may be soaked
overnight.</p>
<p>The greatest merit of a fish is freshness. The secret of the excellence of
the fish at the Saratoga Lake House, where they have famous trout dinners, is
that, as they are raised on the premises, they go almost immediately from the
pond to the <implement>fish-kettle.</implement> One is to be pitied who has not
tasted fish at the sea-shore, where fishermen come in just before dinner, with
baskets filled with blue-fish, flounders, etc., fresh from the water.</p>
<p>A long, oval <implement>fish-kettle</implement> (page 52) is very convenient
for frying or boiling fish. It has a strainer to fit, in which the fish is
placed, enabling it to be taken from the kettle without breaking. A fish is
sufficiently cooked when the meat separates easily from the bones. When the
fish is quite done, it should be left no longer in the kettle; it will lose its
flavor.</p>
<p>It makes a pleasant change to cook fish "<emph rend="italic">au
gratin.</emph>" It is a simple operation, but little attempted in America. I
would recommend this mode of cooking for eels, or the Western white-fish.</p>
<p>A fish is most delicious fried in olive-oil. A friend told me he purchased
olive-oil by the keg, for cooking purposes. It is, 
<pb n="100" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=106"/> of course, expensive, and lard or beef drippings
answer very well. I would recommend, also, frying fish by 
<emph rend="italic">immersion.</emph></p>
<p>If a fish is to be served whole, do not cut off the head and tail. It also
presents a better appearance to stand the fish on its belly rather than lay it
on it side.</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO BOIL FISH.</purpose>All 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> but salmon (which is put into warm water to
preserve its color) should be placed in <ingredient>salted 
<emph rend="italic">cold</emph> water,</ingredient> with a little 
<ingredient>vinegar</ingredient> or <ingredient>lemon-juice</ingredient> in it,
to boil. It should then boil 
<emph rend="italic">very, very</emph> gently, or the outside will break before
the inside is done. It requires a little experience to know exactly how long to
boil a <ingredient>fish.</ingredient> It must never be underdone; yet it must
be taken from the <ingredient>water</ingredient> as soon as it is thoroughly
done, or it will become insipid, watery, and colorless. It will require about
eight minutes to the pound for large, thick <ingredient>fish,</ingredient> and
about five minutes to the pound for thin <ingredient>fish,</ingredient> after
the <ingredient>water</ingredient> begins to simmer, using only enough 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> to cover it. When done, drain it well before the
fire. The fresh-water, or any kind of <ingredient>fish</ingredient> which have
no decided flavor, are much better boiled, 
<emph rend="italic">au court bouillon,</emph> or with 
<ingredient>onions</ingredient> and <ingredient>carrots</ingredient> (sliced), 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> two or three <ingredient>cloves,</ingredient>
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>vinegar,</ingredient> or <ingredient>wine</ingredient>--any or all
of these added to the <ingredient>water.</ingredient> The 
<ingredient>sea-fish,</ingredient> or such as have a flavor 
<emph rend="italic">prononc&#233;,</emph> can be boiled in simple 
<ingredient>salted and acidulated water.</ingredient></p>
<p>If you have no <implement>fish-kettle,</implement> and wish to boil a 
<ingredient>fish,</ingredient> arrange it in a circle on a plate, with an old
napkin around it: when it is done, it can be carefully lifted from the kettle
by the cloth, so that it will not be broken. When cuts of 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> are boiled, you allow the 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> to just come to a boil; then remove the kettle
to the back of the range, so that it will only simmer.</p>
<p>Always serve a <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> with a boiled 
<ingredient>fish,</ingredient> such as <ingredient>drawn butter, egg, caper,
pickle, shrimp, oyster, 
<emph rend="italic">Hollandaise,</emph> or piquante sauce.</ingredient></p> 
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO BOIL AU COURT
BOUILLON.</purpose>Among professional cooks, a favorite way of boiling a 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> is in <ingredient>water</ingredient> saturated
with <ingredient>vegetables,</ingredient> called <ingredient
rend="italic">court bouillon;</ingredient> consequently a 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> cooked in this manner would be called, for 
<pb n="101" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=107"/> instance, "Pike, 
<emph rend="italic">au court bouillon.</emph>" It is rather a pity this way of
cooking has a French name; however, if one is not unduly scared at that, one
can see how simple it is.</p>
<p><attribution rend="italic">Dubois's Receipt.</attribution>--Mince a 
<ingredient>carrot,</ingredient> an <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> and a small
piece of <ingredient>celery;</ingredient> fry them in a little 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient> in a <implement>stew-pan;</implement> add some
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> some 
<ingredient>pepper-corns,</ingredient>and three or four 
<ingredient>cloves.</ingredient> Now pour on two quarts of <ingredient>hot
water</ingredient> and a pint of <ingredient>vinegar.</ingredient> Let it boil
a quarter of an hour; skim it, <ingredient>salt</ingredient> it, and use it for
boiling the <ingredient>fish.</ingredient></p>
<p>It is improved by using <ingredient>white or red wine</ingredient> instead
of vinegar; only use then three parts of <ingredient>wine</ingredient> to one
of <ingredient>water.</ingredient> These stocks are easily preserved, and may
be used several times.</p>
<p>To boil the <ingredient>fish:</ingredient> Rub the 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> with <ingredient>lemon-juice</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> put it in a kettle, and cover it with 
<emph rend="italic">court bouillon.</emph> Let it only simmer, not boil hard,
until thoroughly done. Serve the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> on a napkin,
surrounded with <ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> Serve a <ingredient>caper,
pickle, or any kind of fish sauce,</ingredient> in a 
<implement>sauce-boat.</implement></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO FRY FISH.</purpose>By frying 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> I mean that it is to be 
<emph rend="italic">immersed</emph> in hot <ingredient>lard,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>beef drippings,</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>olive-oil.</ingredient>Let there be a little more 
<ingredient>fat</ingredient> than will cover the <ingredient>fish;</ingredient>
otherwise it is liable to stick to the bottom and burn. Do not put in the 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> until the <ingredient>fat</ingredient> is tested,
and found to be quite hot. If the <ingredient>fat</ingredient> were not hot
enough, the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> would absorb some of it, making it
greasy and unwholesome. If it is hot enough, the <ingredient>fish</ingredient>
will absorb nothing at all.</p>
<p>To prepare <ingredient>fish</ingredient> for frying, dredge them first with 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> then brush them with beaten 
<ingredient>egg,</ingredient> and roll them in <ingredient>fine or sifted
bread, or cracker crumbs.</ingredient> When they are browned on one side, turn
them over in the hot <ingredient>fat.</ingredient> When done, let them drain
quite dry.</p>
<p>Cutlets of any large <ingredient>fish</ingredient> are particularly nice
egged and bread-crumbed, fried, and served with <ingredient>tomato
sauce</ingredient> or slices of <ingredient>lemon.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">FISH FRIED IN
BATTER.</purpose>Cut almost any kind of <ingredient>fish</ingredient> in
fillets or pieces one-fourth of an inch thick, and one or two inches square;
only be careful to have them all of the same shape and size. Sprinkle them
<pb n="102" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=108"/> with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and roll each one in 
<ingredient>batter</ingredient> (No. 2, page<illustration><description>Slices
of fried fish arranged in a circle on a round
platter.</description></illustration>98). Fry them in boiling 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient> Arrange them tastefully in a circle, one
overlapping the other. Garnish with fresh or fried 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> <ingredient>Potatoes 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la Parisienne</emph></ingredient> may be piled in
the centre, and <ingredient rend="italic">sauce Tartare</ingredient> (see page
128) served separately in a <implement>sauce-boat.</implement></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO BROIL FISH.</purpose>The same
rule applies to broiling <ingredient>fish</ingredient> as to every thing else.
If the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> is small, it requires a clear, hot fire.
If the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> is large, the fire must be moderate;
otherwise the outside of the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> would be burned
before the inside is cooked. Many rub the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> over
with <ingredient>olive-oil;</ingredient> others split a large 
<ingredient>fish;</ingredient> still others broil it whole, and cut notches at
equal distances across its sides. When you wish to turn the 
<ingredient>fish,</ingredient> separate carefully with a knife any part of it
which sticks to the <implement>gridiron;</implement> then, holding a platter
over the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> with one hand, turn the 
<implement>gridiron</implement> over with the other, leaving the 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> on the platter: it will now be a more easy matter
to turn it without breaking. As soon as the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> is
done, sprinkle over <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and spread <ingredient>butter</ingredient> all
over it with a knife. Set it in the oven a moment, so that the 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> may soak in the 
<ingredient>fish.</ingredient>This is the most common way of seasoning it. It
is almost as easy to first sprinkle <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient>then a few drops of 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> over the <ingredient>fish;</ingredient>
then a table-spoonful of <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> chopped fine; then
some <ingredient>melted butter</ingredient> over all. Put it a moment in the
oven to soak. They call this a <ingredient><emph rend="italic">ma&#238;tre-d'
h&#244;tel</emph>sauce.</ingredient> Quite simple, it is not? It is especially
nice for a broiled <ingredient>shad.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO BAKE FISH.</purpose>When
cleaning the <ingredient>fish,</ingredient> do not cut off the head and tail.
Stuff it. Two or three receipts are given for the 
<ingredient>stuffing.</ingredient> Sew it, or confine the 
<ingredient>stuffing</ingredient> by winding the cord several times around the 
<ingredient>fish.</ingredient> Lay several pieces of 
<ingredient>pork,</ingredient> cut in strings, across the top; sprinkle over 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and <ingredient>bread-crumbs;</ingredient>
<pb n="103" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=109"/> put some <ingredient>hot water</ingredient> into
the pan; bake in a hot oven, 
<emph rend="italic">basting very often.</emph> When done (the top should be
nicely browned), serve a <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> with it. The best
fishes to bake are <ingredient>white-fish,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>blue-fish,</ingredient> <ingredient>shad,</ingredient> etc. If not
basted very often, a baked <ingredient>fish</ingredient> will be very dry. For
this reason, an ordinary cook should never bake a 
<ingredient>fish.</ingredient> I believe, however, they never cook them in any
other way.</p>
</recipe><section class1="accompaniments"><hd align="center">STUFFINGS FOR
FISH.</hd>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BREAD STUFFING.</purpose>Soak
half a pound of <ingredient>bread-crumbs</ingredient> in 
<ingredient>water;</ingredient> when the <ingredient>bread</ingredient> is
soft, press out all the <ingredient>water.</ingredient> Fry two table-spoonfuls
of minced <ingredient>onion</ingredient> in some 
<ingredient>butter;</ingredient> add the <ingredient>bread,</ingredient> some
chopped <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> a table-spoonful of chopped 
<ingredient>suet,</ingredient> and <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Let it cook a moment; take it off the fire, and
add an <ingredient>egg.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MEAT STUFFING.</purpose>This
stuffing is best made with <ingredient>veal,</ingredient> and almost an equal
quantity of <ingredient>bacon</ingredient> chopped fine. Put in a quarter of
its volume of white softened <ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> pressed out
well; add a little chopped <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> or <ingredient>mushrooms;</ingredient> season
highly.</p>
<p>If the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> should be baked with 
<ingredient>wine,</ingredient> this dressing can be used, viz.:</p>
<p>Soak about three slices of <ingredient>bread.</ingredient> When the 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> is well pressed out, season it with 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a little <ingredient>cayenne,</ingredient> a
little <ingredient>mace,</ingredient> and moisten it with 
<ingredient>port-wine</ingredient> or <ingredient>sherry;</ingredient> add the 
<ingredient>juice and the grated rind of half a lemon.</ingredient></p>
</recipe></section>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>TO BAKE A FISH WITH WINE</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Samuel Treat</attribution>).</p>
<p>Stuff a <ingredient>fish</ingredient> with the following dressing. Soak some
<ingredient>bread</ingredient> in <ingredient>water,</ingredient> squeeze it
dry, and add an <ingredient>egg</ingredient> well beaten. Season it with 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> or <ingredient>thyme;</ingredient> grease the 
<implement>baking-pan</implement> (one just the right size for holding the 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient>) with <ingredient>butter;</ingredient> season the
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> on top, and put it into the pan with about two
cups of <ingredient>boiling water;</ingredient> baste it well, adding more 
<ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> when necessary. About twenty minutes
before serving, pour over it a cup of <ingredient>sour wine,</ingredient> and a
small piece of <ingredient>butter</ingredient><pb n="104"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=110"/>(Mrs. Treat adds also two or three table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>Worcestershire sauce</ingredient> mixed with the 
<ingredient>wine</ingredient>--of course, this may be left out if more
convenient); put half a <ingredient>lemon,</ingredient> sliced, into the 
<ingredient>gravy;</ingredient> baste the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> again
well. When it is thoroughly baked, remove it from the pan; garnish the top with
the slices of <ingredient>lemon;</ingredient> finish the 
<ingredient>sauce</ingredient> in the <implement>baking-dish</implement> by
adding a little <ingredient>butter</ingredient> rubbed to a paste in some 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> strain, skim, and serve it in a 
<implement>sauce-boat.</implement></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO STEW FISH, OR FISH EN
MATELOTE.</purpose>Cut the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> transversely into
pieces about an inch or an inch and a half long; sprinkle 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> on them, and let them remain while you boil two
or three <ingredient>onions</ingredient> (sliced) in a very little 
<ingredient>water;</ingredient> pour off this 
<ingredient>water</ingredient>when the <ingredient>onions</ingredient> are
cooked, and add to them <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> about a tea-cupful of 
<ingredient>hot water,</ingredient> and a tea-cupful of 
<ingredient>wine</ingredient> if it is <ingredient>claret or white
wine,</ingredient> and two or three table-spoonfuls if it is 
<ingredient>sherry</ingredient> or <ingredient>port:</ingredient> now add the 
<ingredient>fish.</ingredient> When it begins to simmer, throw in some little
balls of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> which have been rolled in 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient> When the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> is
thoroughly cooked, serve it very hot. This is a very good manner of cooking any
<ingredient>fresh-water fish.</ingredient></p>
<p><ingredient>Fish</ingredient> is much better stewed with some 
<ingredient>wine.</ingredient> Of course, it is quite possible to stew 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> without it, in which case add a little 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO COOK FISH AU
GRATIN.</purpose>This is a favorite manner with the French of cooking 
<ingredient>fish.</ingredient> The <ingredient>fish</ingredient> is served in
the same dish in which it is cooked. It is<illustration><description>An
illustration of fish served in a gratin
dish.</description></illustration>called a 
<emph rend="italic">gratin</emph> dish--generally an oval silver-plated
platter, or it may be of block-tin. A <ingredient>fish</ingredient> 
<emph rend="italic">au gratin</emph> is rather expensive, on account of the 
<ingredient>mushrooms;</ingredient> however, the French canned 
<ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient> (<ingredient
rend="italic">champignons</ingredient>) are almost as good as fresh ones, and
are much cheaper.</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">Receipt.</emph>--First put into a saucepan 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> size of an egg, then a handful of 
<ingredient>shallots,</ingredient> or one large 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient>minced fine; let it cook ten minutes, when mix in
half a cupful of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> then mince
<pb n="105" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=111"/>three-fourths of a cupful of 
<ingredient>mushrooms.</ingredient> Add a tea-cupful of <ingredient>hot
water</ingredient> (or better, <ingredient>stock</ingredient>) to the saucepan,
then a glass of <ingredient>white or red wine,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and <ingredient>pepper.</ingredient> After
mixing them well, add the minced <ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient> and a
little minced <ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> Skin the 
<ingredient>fish,</ingredient> cut off the head and tail, split it in two,
laying bare the middle bone; slip the knife under the bone, removing it
smoothly. Now cut the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> in pieces about an inch
long. Moisten the <implement><emph rend="italic">gratin</emph> dish</implement>
with <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> arrange the cuts of 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> tastefully on it, pour over the 
<ingredient>sauce,</ingredient> then sprinkle the whole with 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs</ingredient> which have been dried and grated. Put
little pieces of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> over all, and bake. The dish
may be garnished with little diamonds of <ingredient>fried or toasted and
buttered bread</ingredient> around the edge. Or,</p>
<p><variation>This is a pretty dish 
<emph rend="italic">au gratin:</emph> Put <ingredient>mashed
potatoes</ingredient> (which must be still hot when arranged) in a circle on
the outside of the <implement><emph
rend="italic">gratin</emph>dish,</implement> then a row of the pieces of 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient>(which have been cooked as just described) around
the middle of the dish, or just inside the <ingredient>potatoes.</ingredient>
Put some <ingredient>mashed potatoes</ingredient> also in the middle of the
dish. Garnish here and there with <ingredient>mushrooms.</ingredient> Pour the 
<ingredient>sauce</ingredient> just described and <ingredient>bread
crumbs</ingredient> over the <ingredient>fish,</ingredient> and bake five or
ten minutes.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>FISH &#224; LA CR&#232;ME</purpose>
(<attribution rend="italic">Mrs. Audenreid</attribution>).</p>
<p>Boil a <ingredient>fish</ingredient> weighing four pounds in 
<ingredient>salted water.</ingredient> When done, remove the skin, and flake
it, leaving out the bones. Boil one quart of <ingredient>rich
milk.</ingredient> Mix <ingredient>butter</ingredient> size of a small egg with
three table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and stir it smoothly
in the <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> adding also two or three sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> and half an 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient>chopped fine, a little <ingredient>Cayenne
pepper,</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Stir it over the fire
until it has thickened.</p>
<p>Butter a <implement><emph rend="italic">gratin</emph> dish.</implement> Put
in first a layer of <ingredient>fish,</ingredient> then of 
<ingredient>dressing,</ingredient> and continue in alternation until all the 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> is used, with dressing on top. Sprinkle sifted 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs</ingredient> over the top. Bake half an hour. Garnish
with <ingredient>parsley</ingredient> and slices of <ingredient>hard-boiled
egg.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<p>As the rules for boiling, broiling, frying, cooking 
<emph rend="italic">au gratin,</emph> and stewing are the same for nearly all
kinds of <ingredient>fish,</ingredient> I will not<pb n="106"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=112"/> repeat the receipts for each particular one. I will only
suggest the best manner for cooking certain kinds, and will add certain
receipts not under the general rule:</p><section class1="meatfishgame"><hd
align="center">SALMON</hd>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p>is undoubtedly best boiled. The only exception to the rule of boiling 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> is in the case of 
<ingredient>salmon,</ingredient> which must be put in hot instead of cold 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> to preserver its color. A favorite way of 
<purpose>boiling a whole salmon</purpose> is in the form of a letter S, as in
plate.<illustration><description>A large fish, formed into an S-shape and
served on a round platter.</description></illustration>It is done as follows:
Thread a <implement>trussing-needle</implement> with some twine; tie the end of
the string around the head, fastening it tight; then pass the needle through
the centre part of the body, draw the string tight, and fasten it around the
tail. The <ingredient>fish</ingredient> will assume the desired form.</p>
<p>For parties or evening companies, <ingredient>salmon</ingredient> boiled in
this form (middle cuts are also used), served cold, with a <ingredient><emph
rend="italic">Mayonnaise</emph> sauce</ingredient> poured over, is a favorite
dish. It is then generally mounted in style, on an oval or square block
pedestal, three or four inches high, made of <ingredient>bread</ingredient>(two
or three days old), called a <ingredient rend="italic">croustade,</ingredient>
carved in any form with a sharp knife. It is then fried a light-brown in
boiling <ingredient>lard.</ingredient> Oftener these 
<emph rend="italic">croustades</emph> are made of wood, which are covered with 
<ingredient>white pepper,</ingredient> and brushed over with a little half-set 
<ingredient>aspic jelly.</ingredient> The <ingredient>salmon</ingredient> is
then decorated with squares of <ingredient>aspic jelly.</ingredient> A
decoration of quartered <ingredient>hard-boiled eggs</ingredient> or of cold 
<ingredient>cauliflower-blossoms</ingredient> is very pretty, and is palatable
also with the <ingredient><emph
rend="italic">Mayonnaise</emph>sauce.</ingredient> The best sauces for a boiled
<ingredient>salmon</ingredient> served hot are the <ingredient
rend="italic">sauce Hollandaise,</ingredient> <ingredient>lobster, shrimp, or
oyster sauces</ingredient>--the <ingredient rend="italic">sauce
Hollandaise</ingredient> being the favorite.</p>
<p>If <ingredient>lobster sauce</ingredient> is used, the <ingredient>coral of
the lobster</ingredient> is dried, and<pb n="107" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=113"/> sprinkled
over the <ingredient>fish,</ingredient> reserving some with which to color the 
<ingredient>sauce,</ingredient> as in receipt for <ingredient>lobster
sauce</ingredient> (see page 122).</p>
<p>If <ingredient>shrimp sauce</ingredient> is used, some whole 
<ingredient>shrimps</ingredient> should be saved for decorating the dish.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose><alt synonym1="garnish for salmon" synonym2="garnish for fish">In
decorating salmon, as well as any other kind of fish,</alt></purpose> 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> cut in little balls, and placed like little
piles of cannon-balls around the dish,<illustration><description>A fish on a
round plate garnished with potato balls.</description></illustration>are
pretty. The <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> should be simply boiled in 
<ingredient>salted water.</ingredient> An alternate pile of <ingredient>button
mushrooms</ingredient> are pretty, and good also. 
<ingredient>Parsley</ingredient> or any pretty leaves around a dish always give
a fresh and tasteful appearance. Or,</p>
<p><variation>An exceedingly pretty <purpose>garnish for a large
fish</purpose>is one of <ingredient>smelts</ingredient> (in rings, see receipt,
page 111) fried in boiling <ingredient>lard.</ingredient> In this case, add
slices of <ingredient>lemon.</ingredient> Still another pretty garnish is of
fried <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> or fried 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> or both.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<p>It is quite appropriate to serve a middle cut of salmon at
a<illustration><description>A middle cut of salmon served on a round
platter.</description></illustration>dinner: 1st, because it is the best cut;
2d, because it is easier and cheaper to serve; and, 3d, because one never cares
to supply more than is necessary. This cut is better slowly boiled, also, in
the acidulated salted water.</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO BROIL SALMON.</purpose>Take
two slices of <ingredient>salmon</ingredient> cut from the middle of the 
<ingredient>fish,</ingredient> sprinkle over a little 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> <ingredient>Cayenne pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and <ingredient>salad-oil.</ingredient> Let it
then remain for half an hour. Rub the <implement>gridiron</implement> well with
<ingredient>beef-suet</ingredient> or <ingredient>pork.</ingredient> As it is a
nice matter to broil <ingredient>salmon</ingredient> without burning, it would
be well to wrap it in buttered or oiled paper just before broiling. Serve a 
<ingredient><emph rend="italic">ma&#238;tre-d'h&#244;tel,</emph> pickle,
caper, anchovy, or a horse-radish sauce.</ingredient></p>
</recipe><pb n="108" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=114"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SALMON CUTLETS.</purpose>Remove
the skin and bone from some slices of <ingredient>salmon</ingredient> one-third
of an inch thick; trim them into cutlet shape; sprinkle on 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and dip them into beaten 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient> mixed with a little chopped 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> or <ingredient>onion;</ingredient> then 
<ingredient>bread-crumb</ingredient> them. Fry them in boiling 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient> This is the better way, or they may be fried or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> in <ingredient>butter</ingredient> in
a <implement><emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan.</implement> Arrange
the pieces one over the other in a circle. Pour a 
<ingredient>pickle,</ingredient>or <ingredient><emph
rend="italic">Tartare</emph> sauce,</ingredient> in the centre.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SLICES OF SALMON
BOILED.</purpose>If a family is small, and it should not be advisable to buy a
large middle cut of <ingredient>salmon,</ingredient> it would be preferable to
buy, for instance, two slices. Boil them very slowly in <ingredient>acidulated
salted water,</ingredient> or in the <ingredient rend="italic">court
bouillon</ingredient> with <ingredient>wine.</ingredient> Serve them with 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> between, and a napkin underneath. Serve a 
<ingredient rend="italic">sauce Hollandaise</ingredient> in the 
<implement>sauce-boat.</implement></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CANNED SALMON.</purpose>The
California <ingredient>canned salmon</ingredient> is undoubtedly one of the
greatest successes in canning. By keeping a few cans in the house, one is
always ready in any emergency to produce a fine dish of 
<ingredient>salmon</ingredient> in a few minutes. It is particularly nice for a
breakfast-dish, heated, seasoned with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> placed on thin slices of <ingredient>buttered
toast,</ingredient> with a <ingredient>cream dressing</ingredient> poured over
all, 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> <ingredient>milk</ingredient> thickened on the
fire, by stirring it into a <ingredient rend="italic">roux</ingredient> (see
page 51) of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient>and seasoned with 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a few
pieces of fresh <ingredient>butter</ingredient> just before serving. For dinner
it is excellent served with any of the <ingredient>fish sauces.</ingredient> 
<ingredient>Salmon</ingredient> is also nice served in shells, as for trout
(see page 109).</p>
</recipe></section><section class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">SHAD.</hd>
<p>This delicious fish is undoubtedly best broiled, with a <ingredient><emph
rend="italic">ma&#238;tre-d'h&#244;tel</emph> sauce;</ingredient> but it is
good also cut in slices, and 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d.</emph></p></section><section
class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">TROUT.</hd>
<p>If large, they may be broiled, boiled, or baked. If boiled or broiled, serve
the <ingredient rend="italic">sauce Hollandaise</ingredient> with them.
Professional<pb n="109" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=115"/> cooks generally boil it in the 
<ingredient rend="italic">court bouillon.</ingredient> Smaller 
<ingredient>trout</ingredient> are better egged, rolled in <ingredient>salted
corn-meal,</ingredient> and thrown into boiling 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient></p>
<p>The trout is a very nice fish for an 
<emph rend="italic">au gratin,</emph> or stewed, called then 
<emph rend="italic">en matelote.</emph></p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TROUT IN CASES OR IN SHELLS
(<emph rend="italic">en Coquilles</emph>).</purpose>Parboil little 
<ingredient>trout;</ingredient> cut the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> into
pieces about an inch long, or into dice; place them in <implement>paper
cases</implement> (which have been buttered or oiled, and placed in the oven a
few moments to harden the paper so as to enable it to hold the 
<ingredient>sauce</ingredient>). After partly filling the cases with the pieces
of <ingredient>fish,</ingredient> pour over them some fine <ingredient>herb
sauce</ingredient> (see page 128), and sprinkle over 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs;</ingredient> put them into the oven twenty minutes
before dinner to bake.</p>
<p>If shells are used, little plated-silver ones (<implement>scallop
shells</implement>) are preferable. In that case, it would be better to fry the
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> (seasoned with <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>lemon-juice</ingredient>) in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan;</implement> cut them in dice afterward,
and put them in the shells; pour over a fine <ingredient>herb or a Bechamel
sauce;</ingredient> strew the top with grated 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs;</ingredient> place them a few moments in the oven to
brown the tops, and serve.</p>
</recipe></section><section class1="meatfishgame"><hd
align="center">COD-FISH.</hd>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p>Fresh <purpose>cod-fish</purpose> is better boiled. The fish is so large
that it is generally boiled in slices. After it is well salted, 
<ingredient>horse-radish</ingredient> and <ingredient>vinegar</ingredient> in
the <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> will improve the fish. 
<ingredient>Oyster-sauce</ingredient> is the favorite sauce for a boiled 
<ingredient>cod-fish.</ingredient> <ingredient>Capers</ingredient> might be
mixed with the oyster-sauce. Some serve the fish with fresh cod-fish. These
slices may also be broiled an served with a <ingredient><emph
rend="italic">ma&#238;tre-d'h&#244;tel</emph> sauce,</ingredient> or they
may be egged and bread-crumbed, and fried in <ingredient>boiling
lard.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CRIMPED COD-FISH (<emph
rend="italic">Rudmanii</emph>).</purpose>Soak two slices of 
<ingredient>cod-fish</ingredient> one inch thick for two hours in 
<ingredient>ice-water;</ingredient> put them into 
<implement>stew-pan,</implement> and, pouring over enough <ingredient>salted
boiling water</ingredient> to cover them, let them 
<emph rend="italic">simmer</emph> for about ten<pb n="110"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=116"/>minutes; place them neatly on a platter on a folded napkin,
garnish with <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and pour into the two cavities a
<ingredient><emph rend="italic">Tartare</emph> or a pickle
sauce.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SALT COD-FISH.</purpose>Soak
this in <ingredient>water</ingredient> overnight; parboil it, changing the 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> once or twice; separate the flakes. Serve them
on thin slices of <ingredient>toast,</ingredient> with an <ingredient>egg
sauce</ingredient> poured over. Or,</p>
<p><variation>Mince it when boiled in very little 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> which should be changed once; thicken it with 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> and <ingredient>flour</ingredient> mixed; cook
about two minutes, then break in several <ingredient>eggs.</ingredient> When
the <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> are cooked and mixed with the 
<ingredient>fish,</ingredient> pour all thin slices of <ingredient>buttered
toast.</ingredient></variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">COD-FISH BALLS.</purpose>Cut the
<ingredient>cod-fish</ingredient> in pieces; soak them about an hour in 
<ingredient>lukewarm water,</ingredient> when the bones and skin may be easily
removed; pull the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> then into fine shreds, and put
it on the stove in some <ingredient>cold water.</ingredient> As soon as it
begins to boil, change the <ingredient>water,</ingredient> and repeat this
process a second time. It is not proper to boil it, as it renders it tough. As
soon as the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> is ready, some 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> must be cooked at the same time, 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> boiled tender, and well-mashed while still
hot, with a little <ingredient>butter</ingredient> added. Mix half as much 
<ingredient>cod-fish</ingredient> as <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> while
both are 
<emph rend="italic">still hot.</emph> Form them into little balls or thick flat
cakes. Fry them in a little hot <ingredient>butter</ingredient> in a 
<implement><emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan,</implement> or immerse
them in boiling-hot <ingredient>lard.</ingredient> It makes all the difference
in the flavor of the balls if the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> are mixed while both are 
<emph rend="italic">hot.</emph> Of course, they are better fried at once, but
may be made the night before serving (at breakfast), if they are only properly 
<emph rend="italic">mixed.</emph></p>
</recipe></section>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">FISH CHOWDER.</purpose>Cut three
pounds of any kind of fresh <ingredient>fish</ingredient> (
<ingredient>cod-fish</ingredient> is especially good), one and a half pounds of
<ingredient>potatoes,</ingredient> and one large 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient>(three ounces) into slices; also, half a pound of
<ingredient>salt pork</ingredient> into half-inch squares or dice.</p>
<p>Put the <ingredient>pork</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>onions</ingredient>into a saucepan, and fry them a 
<pb n="111" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=117"/> light brown; then add a cupful of 
<ingredient>claret;</ingredient> and when it boils take it from the fire.</p>
<p>Butter a large <implement>stew-pan,</implement> and put in first a layer of 
<ingredient>potatoes,</ingredient> then a layer of 
<ingredient>fish,</ingredient> then a sprinkle of 
<ingredient>onions</ingredient> and <ingredient>pork</ingredient> (strained
from the claret), <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and continue these alternations until it is all
in, having the <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> on top. Now pour the claret
over the top, and barely cover the whole with <ingredient>boiling
water.</ingredient> Cover closely, and let it simmer for fifteen minutes
without disturbing it.</p>
<p>In the mean time, bring a pint of <ingredient>milk</ingredient> (or, better,
<ingredient>cream</ingredient>) to a boil, take it from the fire, and cut into
it three ounces of <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> and break in three 
<ingredient>ship-crackers.</ingredient> Arrange the slices of 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> and <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> in the
shape of a dome in the centre of a hot platter. Place the softened 
<ingredient>crackers</ingredient> (skimmed from the 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient>) over the top, and pour over the 
<ingredient>milk.</ingredient> Serve very hot.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SMALL PAN-FISH (<emph
rend="italic">Perch, Sun-fish, etc.</emph>)</purpose>They are generally
preferred peppered, salted, then rolled in <ingredient>salted
corn-meal,</ingredient> and fried either in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan</implement> with a little 
<ingredient>lard</ingredient> and some slices of 
<ingredient>pork,</ingredient>or in boiling lard. They make also a good stew 
<emph rend="italic">en matelote,</emph> or a good 
<emph rend="italic">au gratin.</emph> Their chief excellence consists in their
being perfectly fresh, and served hot.</p>
</recipe><section class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">MACKEREL</hd>
<p>should be broiled, and served 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la
ma&#238;tre-d'h&#244;tel.</emph></p></section><section
class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">SMELTS</hd>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p>are good salted, peppered, and rolled in <ingredient>salted
corn-meal</ingredient> or <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and fried in
boiling-hot <ingredient>lard,</ingredient> but better egged and bread-crumbed
before frying. They should be served 
<emph rend="italic">immediately,</emph> or they will lose their crispness and
flavor. When served as a garnish for a large fish, they should be fried in the
shape of rings. This is easily done by putting the tail of the fish into its
mouth, and holding it with a pin. After it is fried, the pin is withdrawn, as
the fried fish will hold it shape. Place these rings around the fish, with an
additional garnish of parsley and lemon slices; or the rings may be served
alone in a circle around the side of a platter, with a <ingredient>tomato or a 
<emph rend="italic">Tartare</emph> sauce</ingredient> in the centre.</p>
<pb n="112" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=118"/>
<p>There can be no prettier manner of serving them alone than one often seen in
Paris. They are fried in the usual manner; then a little silver or
silver-plated <implement>skewer</implement> four inches long is drawn through
two or three of the <purpose>smelts,</purpose> running it carefully through the
eyes. One skewerful, with a slice of lemon on top, is served for each person at
table. If the silver-plated <implement>skewers</implement> are too extravagant,
little ones of polished wire will answer.</p>
</recipe></section>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">FRIED SLICES OF FISH, WITH
TOMATO SAUCE (<emph rend="italic">Fish &#224; l'Orlay</emph>).</purpose>Bone
and skin the <ingredient>fish,</ingredient> and cut it into even slices; or if
a <ingredient>flounder</ingredient> or any flat <ingredient>fish</ingredient>is
used, begin at the tail, and, keeping the knife close to the bone, separate
each side of the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> neatly from it; then cut each
side in two, lengthwise, leaving the <ingredient>fish</ingredient> in four long
pieces. Remove the skin carefully. After having sprinkled 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> over them,
roll each piece first in sifted <ingredient>cracker or bread
crumbs,</ingredient> then in half a cupful of 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient>mixed with an <ingredient>egg,</ingredient> and
then in crumbs again. They are better fried in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph>pan</implement> in a little hot 
<ingredient>butter;</ingredient> yet they may be 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> in a little hot 
<ingredient>lard,</ingredient> with some neat slices of 
<ingredient>pork,</ingredient> or fried in boiling 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient></p>
<p>Pour <ingredient>tomato sauce No. 2</ingredient> (see page 125) on a hot
platter, arrange the pieces of <ingredient>fish</ingredient> symmetrically on
it, and serve immediately.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO FRY EELS.</purpose>Skin them,
cut them into four-inch lengths, season them with 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient>and <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> roll them in 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> or <ingredient>salted corn-meal,</ingredient>and
fry them in boiling <ingredient>lard.</ingredient> Some parboil 
<ingredient>eels</ingredient> and <ingredient>bull-heads,</ingredient> saying
it removes a muddy taste. I do not think it is necessary. Fried 
<ingredient>eels</ingredient> are generally served with a <ingredient>tomato, a
pickle, or a 
<emph rend="italic">Tartare</emph> sauce.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>EELS STEWED</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">London Cooking-school</attribution>).</p>
<p>Put three-quarters of a cupful of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> into a 
<implement>stew-pan;</implement> when hot, add four small 
<ingredient>onions</ingredient> minced fine, which cook to a light-brown color;
add then a table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> when well mixed
and cooked, add two cupfuls of <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> a wine-glassful
of <ingredient>port-wine,</ingredient> and two <ingredient>bay
leaves</ingredient> (the <ingredient>bay leaves</ingredient> may be omitted).
Now put in the <ingredient>eels</ingredient> (two small ones or one large one),
cut into pieces one inch long. Cover tightly.</p><pb n="113" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=119"/>
<p>They will be ready to send to the table in about fifteen minutes, served on
a hot platter, with a circle around them of <ingredient>toasted or fried slices
of bread</ingredient> (<ingredient rend="italic">cro&#251;tons</ingredient>),
cut diamond-shaped.</p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter><hd align="center">SHELL-FISH.</hd><section
class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">OYSTERS.</hd>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">RAW OYSTERS.</purpose>DRAIN them
well in a <implement>colander,</implement> marinate them, 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> sprinkle over plenty of 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and let them
remain in a cold place for at least half an hour before serving. This makes a
great difference in their flavor. They may be served in the half-shell with
quarters or halves of <ingredient>lemons</ingredient> in the same dish. I think
a prettier arrangement is to serve them in a block of 
<ingredient>ice.</ingredient> Select a ten-pound block; melt with a hot 
<implement>flat-iron</implement> a symmetrical-shaped cavity in the top to hold
the <ingredient>oysters;</ingredient> chip also from the sides at the base, so
that the ice-block may stand in a large platter on the napkin. When the 
<ingredient>oysters</ingredient> are well salted and peppered, place them in
the ice, and let them remain in some place where the ice will not melt until
the time of serving. The <ingredient>salt</ingredient> will help to make the 
<ingredient>oysters</ingredient> very cold. The ice may be decorated with 
<ingredient>leaves</ingredient> or <ingredient>smilax vines,</ingredient> and a
row of <ingredient>lemon</ingredient> quarters or halves may be placed around
the platter at the base of the ice. It has an especially pretty effect served
on a table by gas-light. The English often serve little thin squares of 
<ingredient>buttered brown bread</ingredient> (like <ingredient>Boston brown
bread</ingredient>) with <ingredient>oysters.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">FRIED OYSTERS.</purpose>Drain
the <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> in the 
<implement>colander;</implement>sprinkle over <ingredient>pepper</ingredient>
and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> which mix well with them, and put them in a
cold place for fifteen or twenty minutes before cooking. This is marinating
them. When ready to cook, roll each one first in sifted 
<ingredient>cracker-crumbs,</ingredient> then in beaten 
<ingredient>egg</ingredient> mixed with a little 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient>and seasoned with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient>
and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> then in the 
<ingredient>cracker-crumbs</ingredient> again. You will please remember the
routine: 
<emph rend="italic">first,</emph> the crumbs before
<pb n="114" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=120"/> the <ingredient>egg,</ingredient> as the 
<ingredient>egg</ingredient> will not adhere well to the 
<ingredient>oyster</ingredient> without the crumbs; now throw them into
boiling-hot <ingredient>lard</ingredient> (as you would fry doughnuts), first
testing to see if it is hot enough. As soon as they assume a light-brown color
they should be drained, and served immediately on a hot platter.</p>
<p><ingredient>Oysters</ingredient> should not be fried until the persons at
table are ready to eat them, as it takes only a few moments to fry them, and
they are not good unless very hot.</p>
<p>The platter of <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> may be garnished with a
table-spoonful of chopped <ingredient>pickles</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>chowchow</ingredient> placed at the four opposite sides; or the 
<ingredient>oysters</ingredient> may be served as a border around 
<ingredient>cold slaw</ingredient> (see receipt, page 224), when they are an
especially nice course for dinner; or they may be served with 
<ingredient>celery,</ingredient> either plain or in salad. As the platter for
the fried <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> is hot, the <ingredient>celery
salad</ingredient> or cold slaw might be piled on a folded napkin in the
centre.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SCALLOPED OYSTERS IN
SHELLS.</purpose>They may be served cooked in their shells, or in 
<implement>silver scallop shells,</implement> when they present a better
appearance than when cooked and served all in one dish.</p>
<p>If cooked in an <ingredient>oyster or clam shell,</ingredient> one large, or
two or three little <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> are placed in it, with a
few drops of the <ingredient>oyster liquor.</ingredient> It is sprinkled with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>cracker or bread crumbs.</ingredient> Little pieces of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> are placed over the top. When all are ready,
they are put into the oven. When they are plump and hot, they are done. Brown
the tops with a <implement>salamander,</implement> or with a red-hot 
<implement>kitchen shovel.</implement></p>
<p>If they are cooked in the <implement>silver scallop shells,</implement>which
are larger, several <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> are served in the one
shell; one or two are put in, peppered, salted, strewed with 
<ingredient>cracker-crumbs</ingredient> and small pieces of 
<ingredient>butter;</ingredient> then more layers, until the shell is full, or
until enough are used for one person. Moisten them with the 
<ingredient>oyster-juice,</ingredient> and strew little pieces of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> over the top. They are merely kept in the oven
until they are thoroughly hot, then browned with a 
<implement>salamander.</implement> Serve one shell for each person at table,
placed on a small plate. The <ingredient>oyster</ingredient> may be bearded or
not.</p>
</recipe><pb n="115" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=121"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SCALLOPED
OYSTERS.</purpose>Ingredients: Three dozen <ingredient>oysters,</ingredient> a
large tea-spoonful of <ingredient>bread or cracker crumbs,</ingredient> two
ounces of fresh <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> half a
tea-cupful of <ingredient>oyster-juice.</ingredient></p>
<p>Make layers of these ingredients, as described in the last article, in the
top of a <implement>chafing-dish,</implement> or in any kind of pudding or 
<implement><emph rend="italic">gratin</emph> dish;</implement> bake in a quick
oven about fifteen minutes; brown with a <implement>salamander.</implement></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">OYSTER STEW.</purpose>Put a
quart of <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> on the fire in their own 
<ingredient>liquor.</ingredient> The moment they 
<emph rend="italic">begin</emph> to boil, skim them out, and add to the liquor
a half-pint of hot <ingredient>cream,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and <ingredient>Cayenne pepper</ingredient> to
taste. Skim it well, take it off the fire, add to the 
<ingredient>oysters</ingredient> an ounce and a half of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> broken into small pieces. Serve
immediately.</p>
</recipe>
<p align="center">OYSTER SOUP (see page 93).</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">OYSTER OR CLAM
FRITTERS.</purpose><ingredient>Oysters</ingredient> served on 
<ingredient>buttered toast</ingredient> for breakfast, or in 
<ingredient rend="italic">vols-au-vent,</ingredient> <implement>silver
scallop-shells,</implement> or in paper boxes, are very nice made after the
receipts on page 241). They or the <ingredient>fricasseed
oysters</ingredient>may be served in either of the above ways.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center"
placement="heading">FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS (<emph rend="italic">Oyster &#224;
la Boulette</emph>).</purpose>Put one quart, or twenty-five, 
<ingredient>oysters</ingredient> on the fire in their own liquor. The moment it
begins to boil, turn it into a hot dish through a 
<implement>colander,</implement> leaving the <ingredient>oysters</ingredient>in
the <implement>colander.</implement> Put into the saucepan two ounces of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> (size of an egg), and when it bubbles sprinkle
in one ounce (a table-spoonful) of sifted <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> let
it cook a minute without taking color, stirring it well with a <implement>wire
egg-whisk;</implement> then add, mixing well, a cupful of the 
<ingredient>oyster liquor.</ingredient> Take it from the fire and mix in the 
<ingredient>yolks of two eggs,</ingredient> a little 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a very little <ingredient>Cayenne
pepper,</ingredient> one tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient>and one grating of 
<ingredient>nutmeg.</ingredient> Beat it well; then return it to the fire to
set the <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> without allowing it to boil. Put in the 
<ingredient>oysters.</ingredient></p><pb n="116" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=122"/>
<p>These <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> may be served on thin slices of 
<ingredient>toast</ingredient> for breakfast or tea, or in papers (<emph
rend="italic">en papillote</emph>), or as filling for patties for dinner.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO ROAST CANNED
OYSTERS.</purpose>Drain them. Put them in a <implement>spider</implement> which
is very hot; turn them in a moment, so that they may cook on both sides. It
only takes a few seconds to cook them. Put them on a hot plate in which there
are <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a
little hot <ingredient>melted butter.</ingredient> They should be served
immediately. They have the flavor of the <ingredient>oyster</ingredient>roasted
in the shell.</p>
<p>Some cook them in this manner at table on a 
<implement>chafing-dish</implement> by means of the 
<implement>spirit-lamp.</implement></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>SPICED OYSTERS</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Miss Lestlie</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: Two hundred <ingredient>oysters,</ingredient> one pint of 
<ingredient>vinegar,</ingredient> a <ingredient>nutmeg</ingredient> grated,
eight blades of whole <ingredient>mace,</ingredient> three dozen 
<ingredient>whole cloves,</ingredient> one tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> two tea-spoonfuls of whole 
<ingredient>allspice,</ingredient> and as much <ingredient>Cayenne
pepper</ingredient> as will lie on the point of a knife.</p>
<p>Put the <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> with their liquor into a large
earthen vessel; add to them the <ingredient>vinegar</ingredient> and all the
other ingredients. Stir all well together and set them over a slow fire,
keeping them covered. Stir them to the bottom several times. As soon as they
are well scalded, they are done. To be eaten cold.</p>
</recipe></section><section class1="meatfishgame"><hd
align="center">CLAMS.</hd>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p
align="center"><purpose>CLAMS COOKED WITH CREAM</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Audenreid</attribution>).</p>
<p>Chop fifty small <ingredient>clams</ingredient> not too fine, and season
them with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient>Put
into a <implement>stew-pan</implement> <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size
of an egg, and when it bubbles sprinkle in a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> which cook a few minutes; stir gradually into
it the <ingredient>clam liquor,</ingredient> then the 
<ingredient>clams,</ingredient> which stew about two or three minutes; then add
a cupful of boiling <ingredient>cream,</ingredient> and serve immediately. The 
<ingredient>clams</ingredient> may or may not be bearded.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CLAM CHOWDER.</purpose>Put fifty
<ingredient>clams</ingredient> on the fire in their own liquor, with a little
<pb n="117" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=123"/> <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> When they have
boiled about three minutes, strain them, and return the liquor to the fire.
Chop a medium-sized <ingredient>onion</ingredient> (two ounces) into small
pieces, and cut six ounces of <ingredient>pork</ingredient> into dice. Fry both
a light color in two ounces (size of an egg) of 
<ingredient>butter;</ingredient> then stir in three ounces of 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> (two table-spoonfuls). When thoroughly cooked,
add the <ingredient>clam liquor,</ingredient> half a pint of good 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> or <ingredient>milk,</ingredient> the same
quantity of <ingredient>cream,</ingredient> a salt-spoonful of 
<ingredient>mace,</ingredient> a salt-spoonful of 
<ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt</ingredient> to taste, and
eight ounces of <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> cut into dice. When these are
cooked, and the chowder is about to be sent to table, add the 
<ingredient>clams</ingredient> cut in dice, and four ounces of 
<ingredient>ship-bread</ingredient> or <ingredient>crackers</ingredient> broken
in pieces.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TUNISON CLAM
CHOWDER.</purpose>Ingredients: Two hundred soft 
<ingredient>clams,</ingredient>one large <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> twenty
large <ingredient>crackers,</ingredient> can of 
<ingredient>tomatoes,</ingredient> <ingredient>parsley</ingredient> (chopped
fine), half a pound of <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> one large tea-spoonful
of <ingredient>sweet marjoram,</ingredient> <ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>sage,</ingredient> <ingredient>savory,</ingredient> half a
tea-spoonful of ground <ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> and half a tea-spoonful
of <ingredient>curry.</ingredient></p>
<p>Boil well; then add half a pint of <ingredient>milk</ingredient> and half a
pint of <ingredient>sherry wine.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<p align="center">CLAM FRITTER (see page 230).</p>
<p align="center">CLAM SOUP (see page 93).</p></section><section
class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">CRABS AND LOBSTERS.</hd>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SOFT-SHELL CRABS.</purpose>Dry
them; sprinkle them with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt;</ingredient> roll them, first in 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> then in <ingredient>egg</ingredient> (half a
cupful of <ingredient>milk</ingredient> mixed in one 
<ingredient>egg</ingredient>), then in 
<ingredient>cracker-dust,</ingredient>and fry them in boiling 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">DEVILED CRAB.</purpose>When the 
<ingredient>crabs</ingredient> are boiled, take out the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> and cut it into small pieces (dice); clean well
the shells.</p>
<p>To six ounces of <ingredient>crab meat,</ingredient> mix two ounces of 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> two <ingredient>hard-boiled
eggs</ingredient> chopped, the <ingredient>juice of half a lemon,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>Cayenne pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Mix
all with <ingredient>cream</ingredient> or <ingredient>cream
sauce,</ingredient> or, what is still better, a <ingredient>Bechamel
sauce</ingredient> (see page 127). Fill the<pb n="118" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=124"/>shells
with the mixture, smooth the tops, sprinkle over sifted 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> and color it in a quick oven.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">DEVILED LOSTER.</purpose>is made
in the same way as deviled crab, merely substituting the 
<ingredient>lobster</ingredient> for the crab, and adding a grating of 
<ingredient>nutmeg</ingredient> to the <ingredient>seasoning.</ingredient> In
boiling <ingredient>lobsters</ingredient> and crabs, they are sufficiently
cooked when they assume a bright-red color. Too much boiling renders them
tough.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">LOBSTER CHOPS.</purpose>Cut half
a pound of the flesh of a boiled <ingredient>lobster</ingredient> into small
dice. Put two ounces of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> into a 
<implement>stew-pan,</implement> and when it bubbles sprinkle in two ounces of 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> (one table-spoonful). Cook it; then pour in a
cupful of boiling <ingredient>cream</ingredient> and the <ingredient>lobster
dice.</ingredient> Stir it until it is scalding hot; then take it from the
fire, and, when slightly cooled, stir in the beaten <ingredient>yolks of three
eggs,</ingredient> a grating of <ingredient>nutmeg,</ingredient> a little 
<ingredient>Cayenne pepper,</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> to
taste. Return the mixture to the fire, and stir it long enough to well set the 
<ingredient>eggs.</ingredient></p>
<p>Butter a platter, on which spread the 
<ingredient>lobster</ingredient>mixture half an inch deep. When cold, form it
into the shape of chops, pointed at one end; 
<ingredient>bread-crumb,</ingredient> <ingredient>egg,</ingredient>and crumb
them again, and fry them in boiling <ingredient>lard.</ingredient>Stick a 
<ingredient>claw</ingredient> into the end of each <ingredient>lobster
chop</ingredient> after it is cooked.</p>
<p>Place the chops in a circle, overlapping each other, on a napkin. Decorate
the dish by putting the <ingredient>tail of the lobster</ingredient> in the
centre, and its <ingredient>head,</ingredient> with the long horns, on the
tail. Around the outside of the circle of chops arrange the 
<ingredient>legs,</ingredient> cut an inch each side of the middle joints, so
that they will form two equal sides of a triangle.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">A GOOD WAY TO PREPARE A
LOBSTER.</purpose>Put into a saucepan <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size
of a small egg, and a tea-spoonful of minced 
<ingredient>onion.</ingredient>When it has cooked, sprinkle in a tea-spoonful
of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> which cook also; then stir in one cupful of
the<ingredient>water</ingredient> in which the 
<ingredient>lobster</ingredient>was boiled, one cupful of 
<ingredient>milk,</ingredient> one cupful of strong <ingredient>veal or beef
stock,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient>and 
<ingredient>salt:</ingredient><pb n="119" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=125"/> add the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> of the boiled 
<ingredient>lobster,</ingredient>and when quite hot pour all in the centre of a
hot platter. Decorate the dish with the <ingredient>lobster's head</ingredient>
in the centre, <ingredient>fried-bread diamonds</ingredient> (
<ingredient rend="italic">cro&#251;tons</ingredient>) around the outside; or
in any prettier way you choose, with the abundant resources of 
<ingredient>lobster legs</ingredient> and trimmings.</p>
</recipe></section><section class1="meatfishgame"><hd
align="center">FROGS.</hd>
<p>Frogs are such a delicacy that it is a pity not to prepare them with
care.</p>
<p>The hind legs only are used. They may be made into a broth the same as
chicken broth, and are considered a very advantageous diet for those suffering
with pulmonary affections.</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">FROGS FRIED.</purpose>Put them
in <ingredient>salted boiling water,</ingredient> with a little 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> and boil them three minutes; wipe them;
dip them first in <ingredient>cracker-dust,</ingredient> then in 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient> (half a cupful of 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient>mixed in two <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> and
seasoned with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient>), then again in 
<ingredient>cracker-crumbs.</ingredient> When they are all breaded, clean off
the bone at the end with a dry cloth. Put them in a wire basket and dip them in
boiling <ingredient>lard,</ingredient> to fry. Put a little paper (see page 61)
on the end of each bone; place them on a hot platter, in the form of a circle,
one overlapping the other, with <ingredient>French pease</ingredient>in the
centre. Serve immediately, while they are still crisp and hot.</p>
</recipe></section></chapter><chapter class1="accompaniments"><hd
align="center">SAUCES.</hd>
<p>THE French say the English only know how to make one kind of sauce, and a
poor one at that. Notwithstanding the French understand the sauce question, it
is very convenient to make the drawn butter, and, by adding different
flavorings, make just so many kinds of sauce. For instance, by adding capers,
shrimps, chopped pickles, anchovy paste, chopped boiled eggs, lobster, oysters,
parsley, cauliflower, etc., one has caper, shrimp, pickle, anchovy, egg, and
the other sauces. The drawn-butter sauce is simple, yet few make it properly,
managing generally<pb n="120" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=126"/> to have it insipid, and with
flour uncooked. If a housekeeper has any pride about having a good table, she
will be amply repaid for learning some of the French sauces, which are, at
last, simple enough. We are often frightened to see many items in a receipt; we
shake our heads dubiously at the trouble and extravagance of one receipt
mentioning thyme, nutmeg, bay-leaf, mace, shallot, capers, pepper-corns,
parsley, and last of all the horrors, stock. As far as the herbs are concerned,
an investment of twenty-five cents will purchase enough mace, thyme,
bay-leaves, and pepper-corns for a year's supply of abundant sauces, to say
nothing of their uses for braising, 
<emph rend="italic">blanquettes,</emph> etc. Five cents' worth of shallots
should last a long time; they are sold in all city markets, being only young
forced onions. Capers would be extravagant if a bottleful, costing sixty cents,
would not last a year in a small-sized family. I have already said enough about
stock to show that one must be very incompetent if a little of it can not be at
hand, made of trimmings and cheap pieces of meat and bones.</p>
<p>The use of mushrooms and truffles, which are comparatively cheap in France,
can not be extensively introduced here. A little tin can, holding about a gill
of tasteless truffles, costs three or four dollars; however, mushrooms are much
less expensive, and infinitely better. A can of mushrooms costs forty cents,
and is sufficient for several sauces and 
<emph rend="italic">entr&#233;es.</emph></p>
<p>Some persons raise mushrooms in their cellars. A small, rich bed in a dark
place where the soil will not freeze, planted with mushroom spawn, will yield
enough mushrooms for the family, and the neighbors besides, with very little
trouble and expense.</p>
<p>The French white sauces differ from the English white sauce, as they are
made with strong white stock, prepared with veal, or chickens, or both, and
some vegetables for a basis. If one would learn to make the 
<emph rend="italic">sauce Bechamel,</emph> it will be found an easy affair to
prepare many delicious 
<emph rend="italic">entr&#233;es,</emph> such as chicken in shells (<emph
rend="italic">en coquille</emph>), or in papers (<emph rend="italic">en
papillote</emph>), and mushrooms in crust (<emph rend="italic">cro&#251;te aux
champignons</emph>).</p>
<p>For boiled fish the 
<emph rend="italic">sauce Hollandaise</emph> is a decided success. In Paris
every one speaks of the delicious sauce, and bribes
<pb n="121" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=127"/> the 
<emph rend="italic">chef de cuisine</emph> for the receipt. It is made without
stock, and is very simple.</p>
<p>For fried fish the perfection of accompaniments is the 
<emph rend="italic">sauce Tartare</emph>--a mere addition of some capers,
shallots, parsley, and pickles to the 
<emph rend="italic">sauce Mayonnaise.</emph></p>
<p>When tomatoes are so abundant, it is unpardonable that one should never
serve a tomato sauce with a beefsteak, and a score of other meat dishes.</p>
<p>For a chicken or a lobster salad, learn unquestionably the 
<emph rend="italic">sauce Mayonnaise.</emph></p>
<p>In the thickening of sauces, let it be remembered that butter and flour
should be well cooked together before the sauce is added, to prevent the flour
from tasting uncooked. In butter sauces, however, only enough butter should be
used to cook the flour, the remainder added, cut in pieces, after the sauce is
taken from the fire. This preserves it flavor.</p>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">DRAWN-BUTTER
SAUCE.</purpose>Ingredients: Three ounces of 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient>one ounce of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient>
half a pint of <ingredient>water</ingredient> (or, better, <ingredient>white
stock</ingredient>), and a pinch of <ingredient>salt</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>pepper.</ingredient></p>
<p>Put two ounces of the <ingredient>butter</ingredient> into a 
<implement>stew-pan,</implement> and when it bubbles, sprinkle in the 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> stir it well with a <implement>wire
egg-whisk</implement> until the <ingredient>flour</ingredient> is thoroughly
cooked without taking color, and then mix in well the half-pint of 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> or <ingredient>stock.</ingredient> Take it off
the fire, pass it through a sieve or <implement>gravy-strainer,</implement> and
stir in the other ounce of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> cut in pieces. When
properly mixed and melted, it is ready for use. This makes a pint of sauce.</p>
<p>Some persons like drawn-butter sauce slightly acid, in which case add a few
drops of <ingredient>vinegar</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>lemon-juice</ingredient> just before serving.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">PICKLE SAUCE.</purpose>Make a 
<ingredient>drawn-butter sauce;</ingredient> just before serving add two or
three table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>pickled cucumbers</ingredient> chopped or
minced very fine.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BOILED-EGG SAUCE.</purpose>Add
to half a pint of <ingredient>drawn-butter sauce</ingredient> three 
<ingredient>hard-boiled eggs,</ingredient> chopped not too fine.</p>
</recipe><pb n="122" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=128"/>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CAPER SAUCE.</purpose>Make a 
<ingredient>drawn-butter sauce</ingredient>--or, say, melt two ounces of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> in a saucepan; add a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> when the two are well mixed, add 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a little
less than a pint of <ingredient>boiling water.</ingredient> Stir the sauce on
the fire until it thickens, then add three table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>French capers.</ingredient> Removing the saucepan from the fire,
stir into the sauce the <ingredient>yolk of an egg</ingredient> beaten with the
<ingredient>juice of half a lemon.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ANCHOVY SAUCE.</purpose>Add to
half a pint of <ingredient>drawn-butter sauce</ingredient> two tea-spoonfuls of
<ingredient>anchovy extract,</ingredient> or <ingredient>anchovy
paste.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SHRIMP SAUCE.</purpose>To half a
pint of <ingredient>drawn-butter sauce</ingredient> add one-third of a pint of 
<ingredient>pickled boiled shrimps,</ingredient> whole, or chopped a little.
Add at last moment a few drops of <ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> and a
very little <ingredient>Cayenne pepper.</ingredient> Let the sauce 
<emph rend="italic">simmer,</emph> not boil. Some add a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>anchovy paste;</ingredient> more, perhaps, prefer it without the 
<ingredient>anchovy</ingredient> flavor.</p>
<p>Shrimps are generally sold at market already boiled. If they are not boiled,
throw them into <ingredient>salted boiling water,</ingredient> and boil them
until they are quite red. When cold, pick off the heads, and peel off the
shells. Always have a few of the shrimps whole for garnishing the dish.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">LOBSTER SAUCE.</purpose>Before
proceeding to make this sauce, break up the <ingredient>coral of the
lobster,</ingredient> and put it on a paper in a slow oven for half an hour;
then pound it in a <implement>mortar,</implement> and sprinkle it over the
boiled <ingredient>fish</ingredient> when it is served. To prepare the sauce
itself, chop the <ingredient>meat of the tail and claws of a good-sized
lobster</ingredient> into pieces, not too small. Half an hour before dinner,
make half a pint of <ingredient>drawn-butter sauce.</ingredient> Add to it the
chopped <ingredient>lobster,</ingredient> a pinch of 
<ingredient>coral,</ingredient> a small pinch of 
<ingredient>Cayenne,</ingredient> and a little <ingredient>salt.</ingredient>An
English lady says: "This process seems simple, yet nothing is rarer in cookery
than good lobster sauce. The<pb n="123" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=129"/> means of spoiling it
are chiefly by chopping the <ingredient>lobster</ingredient> too small, or,
worse, pounding it, inserting contents of the head, or using milk, or anchovy,
or any sauces. It should not be a half-solid mass, or thin liquid, but the 
<ingredient>lobster</ingredient> should be distinct in a creamy bed."</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">OYSTER SAUCE.</purpose>Make a 
<ingredient>drawn-butter or white sauce;</ingredient> add a few drops of 
<ingredient>lemon</ingredient> or a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>capers,</ingredient> or, if neither be at hand, a few drops of 
<ingredient>vinegar;</ingredient> add <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> strained
from their liquor, and let them just come to a boil in the sauce.</p>
<p>This sauce is much better made with part <ingredient>cream,</ingredient> 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> used when making the <ingredient>drawn-butter
sauce,</ingredient> instead of all <ingredient>water.</ingredient> In this
case, do not add the <ingredient>lemon-juice</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>vinegar.</ingredient> Some make the white sauce of the 
<ingredient>oyster liquor,</ingredient> instead of 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient></p>
<p>This sauce may be served in a <implement>sauce-boat,</implement> but it is
nicer to pour it over the fish, boiled turkey, or chicken.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">PARSLEY SAUCE (<emph
rend="italic">for Boiled Fish or Fowls</emph>).</purpose>To half a pint of hot 
<ingredient>drawn-butter sauce</ingredient> add two table-spoonfuls of chopped 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> The appearance of the sauce is improved by
coloring it with a little <ingredient>spinach-green</ingredient> (see page
87).</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CAULIFLOWER SAUCE (<emph
rend="italic">for Boiled Poultry</emph>).</purpose>Add boiled 
<ingredient>cauliflowers,</ingredient> cut into little flowerets, to a 
<ingredient>drawn-butter sauce</ingredient> made with part 
<ingredient>cream.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">LEMON SAUCE (<emph
rend="italic">for Boiled Fowls</emph>).</purpose>To half a pint of 
<ingredient>drawn-butter sauce</ingredient> add the inside of a 
<ingredient>lemon,</ingredient> chopped (seeds taken out), and the 
<ingredient>chicken liver</ingredient> boiled and mashed fine.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CHICKEN SAUCE (<emph
rend="italic">to serve with Boiled or Stewed Fowls</emph>).</purpose>Put 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of an egg into a bright saucepan, and
when it bubbles add a table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> cook
it, and add a pint, or rather less, of <ingredient>boiling
water;</ingredient>when smooth, take it from the fire, and add the beaten 
<ingredient>yolks of two or three eggs,</ingredient> and a few drops of 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Or,</p><pb n="124" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=130"/>
<p><variation><ingredient>Stock</ingredient> can be used instead of boiling
water, when two or three small slices of <ingredient>onion</ingredient> are
placed in the <ingredient>butter</ingredient> after it begins to bubble, and
then allowed to cook yellow; after the <ingredient>flour</ingredient> is
cooked, <ingredient>stock</ingredient> is added instead of water, and when
smooth, it is taken from the fire, a few drops of 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> are added, and the sauce is strained through the 
<implement>gravy strainer</implement> or sieve, to remove the pieces of 
<ingredient>onion.</ingredient></variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MA&#238;TRE-D'H&#244;TEL
BUTTER (<emph rend="italic">for Beefsteak, Broiled Meat, or
Fish</emph>).</purpose>Mix<ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of an egg,
the <ingredient>juice of half a lemon,</ingredient> and two or three sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> chopped very fine; 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> all together.
Spread this over any broiled meat or fish when hot; then put the dish into the
oven a few moments, to allow the <ingredient>butter</ingredient> to penetrate
the meat.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MINT SAUCE (<emph
rend="italic">for Roast Lamb</emph>).</purpose>Put four table-spoonfuls of
chopped <ingredient>mint,</ingredient> two table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> and a quarter of a pint of 
<ingredient>vinegar</ingredient> into the <implement>sauce-boat.</implement>Let
it remain an hour or two before dinner, that the 
<ingredient>vinegar</ingredient> may become impregnated with the 
<ingredient>mint.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CURRANT-JELLY SAUCE (<emph
rend="italic">for Venison</emph>).</purpose>A simple sauce made of 
<ingredient>currant jelly</ingredient> melted with a little 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> is very nice;
yet<attribution>Francatelli's</attribution> receipt is much better, viz.:</p>
<p><variation>"Bruise half a stick of <ingredient>cinnamon</ingredient> and six
<ingredient>cloves;</ingredient> put them into a 
<implement>stew-pan</implement> with one ounce of 
<ingredient>sugar</ingredient> and the <ingredient>peel of half a
lemon,</ingredient> pared off very thin, and perfectly free from any portion of
white pulp; moisten this with one and a half sherry-glassfuls of 
<ingredient>port-wine,</ingredient> and set the whole to gently simmer or heat
on the stove for half an hour; then strain it into a small 
<implement>stew-pan</implement> containing half a glassful of 
<ingredient>currant jelly.</ingredient> Just before sending the sauce to the
table, set it on the fire to boil, in order to melt the <ingredient>currant
jelly,</ingredient> and so that it may mix with the essence of spice,
etc."</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TOMATO SAUCE (No.
1).</purpose>Stew six <ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient> half an hour with two 
<ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> a sprig of <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt;</ingredient> press this
through a sieve; put a little <ingredient>butter</ingredient> into a saucepan
over the fire, and when it bubbles and<pb n="125" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=131"/> a heaping
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> mix and cook it well, and add
the <ingredient>tomato-pulp,</ingredient> stirring until it is smooth and
consistent.</p>
<p>Some add one or two slices of <ingredient>onion</ingredient> at first. It is
a decided improvement to add three or four table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>stock;</ingredient> however, the sauce is very good without it, and
people are generally too careless to have <ingredient>stock</ingredient> at
hand.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TOMATO SAUCE (No.
2).</purpose>Ingredients: One-quart can of 
<ingredient>tomatoes,</ingredient>two <ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> one
small sprig of <ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> two sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient>half a small 
<ingredient>bay-leaf,</ingredient> three <ingredient>pepper-corns,</ingredient>
three <ingredient>allspice,</ingredient>two slices of 
<ingredient>carrot</ingredient> (one and a half ounces), one-ounce 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient> (one small <ingredient>onion</ingredient>), one
and a half ounces of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> (size of a pigeon's egg),
one and a half ounces of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> (one
table-spoonful).</p>
<p>Put the <ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient> over the fire with all the above
ingredients but the <ingredient>butter</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and when they have boiled about twenty minutes
strain them through a sieve. Make a <ingredient
rend="italic">roux</ingredient>by putting the <ingredient>butter</ingredient>
into a <implement>stew-pan,</implement> and when it bubbles sprinkle in the 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> which let cook, stirring it well; then pour in
the <ingredient>tomato-pulp;</ingredient> when it is well mixed, it is ready
for use.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SAUCE HOLLANDAISE, OR DUTCH
SAUCE.</purpose>As this is one of the best sauces ever made for boiled fish,
asparagus, or cauliflower, I will give two receipts. The first
is<attribution>Dubois';</attribution> the second is from
the<attribution>Cooking-school in New York.</attribution> None should call
themselves cooks unless they know how to make the 
<emph rend="italic">sauce Hollandaise,</emph> and simple enough it is.</p>
<p>1st. "Pour four table-spoonfuls of good <ingredient>vinegar</ingredient>into
a small <implement>stew-pan,</implement> and add some 
<ingredient>pepper-corns</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt;</ingredient> let
the liquid boil until it is reduced to half; let it cool; then add to it the
well-beaten <ingredient>yolks of four or five eggs,</ingredient> also four
ounces (size of an egg) of good <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> more 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> if necessary, and a very little 
<ingredient>nutmeg.</ingredient> Set the <implement>stew-pan</implement> on a
very slow fire, and stir the liquid until it is about as thick as cream;
immediately remove it. Now put this <implement>stew-pan</implement> or cup into
another pan containing a little <ingredient>warm water</ingredient> kept at the
side of the fire. Work the sauce briskly with a spoon, or with a little 
<implement>whisk,</implement> so as to get it frothy, but adding little bits of
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient> in all about three
<pb n="126" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=132"/> ounces" (<emph rend="italic">I</emph> would say
the size of half an egg). "When the sauces has become light and smooth, it is
ready for use."</p>
<p><variation>2d. "Put a piece of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of a
pigeon's egg into a saucepan, and when it bubbles stir in with an 
<implement>egg-whisk</implement> an even table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> let it continue to bubble until the 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> is thoroughly cooked, when stir in half a pint
of <ingredient>boiling water,</ingredient> or, better, of <ingredient>veal
stock;</ingredient> when it boils, take it from the fire, and stir into it
gradually the beaten <ingredient>yolks of four eggs;</ingredient> return the
sauce to the fire for a minute, to set the 
<ingredient>eggs,</ingredient>without allowing it to boil; again remove the
sauce, stir in the <ingredient>juice of half a small lemon,</ingredient> and
fresh <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of a walnut, cut into small
pieces, to facilitate its melting, and stir all well with the 
<implement>whisk.</implement>"</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MUSHROOMS, FOR GARNISH (<emph
rend="italic">Gouff&#233;</emph>)</purpose>Separate the button part from the
stalk; then peel them with a sharp knife, cutting off merely the skin. Put them
into a <implement>stew-pan</implement> with a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>lemon-juice</ingredient> and two table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> Toss them well, to impregnate them with the
liquid. The object of the <ingredient>lemon-juice</ingredient> is to keep them
white. Then put them on a sharp fire in <ingredient>boiling
water,</ingredient>with some <ingredient>butter</ingredient> added. When they
are boiled tender they are ready for use, 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> for garnishing and for sauces.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MUSHROOM SAUCE (<emph
rend="italic">to serve with Beefsteaks, Fillets of Beef,
etc.</emph>).</purpose>Having prepared the <ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient>by
cutting off the stalks, and if they are large, by cutting them in halves or
quarters, throw them into a little <ingredient>boiling water,</ingredient> or,
what is much better, <ingredient>stock.</ingredient> Do not use more than is
necessary to cover them. This must be seasoned with 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> Boil the 
<ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient>until they are tender, then thicken the 
<ingredient>gravy</ingredient> slightly with a <ingredient
rend="italic">roux</ingredient> of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient> Add a few drops of 
<ingredient>lemon-juice.</ingredient> It is now ready to pour over the
<ingredient>meat.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center"
placement="heading">MUSHROOM WHITE SAUCE (<emph rend="italic">to serve with
Boiled Fowls or with Cutlets.</emph>)</purpose>Prepare the 
<ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient> as for garnishing; boil them tender in rich 
<ingredient>white stock, made of veal or chicken;</ingredient> thicken with a 
<ingredient rend="italic">roux</ingredient> of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient>and <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and add one
or two table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>cream.</ingredient></p>
</recipe><pb n="127" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=133"/>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MUSHROOM SAUCE (<emph
rend="italic">made with Canned Mushrooms</emph>).</purpose>Put a piece of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of a walnut into a small 
<implement>stew-pan</implement> or tin basin, and when it bubbles add a
tea-spoonful (not heaping) of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> when well cooked,
stir in a cupful of <ingredient>stock</ingredient> (reduced and strong), and
half a tea-cupful of the <ingredient>mushroom-juice</ingredient> from the can;
let it simmer for a minute or two; then, after straining it, add half or three
quarters of a can of <ingredient>mushrooms,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a few drops
of <ingredient>lemon-juice.</ingredient> When thoroughly hot it is ready to
pour over the meat.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">A SIMPLE BECHAMEL
SAUCE.</purpose>Put <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of a walnut into a
<implement>stew-pan,</implement> and when it bubbles stir in an even
table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> which cook thoroughly without
letting it take color. Mix into the <ingredient
rend="italic">roux</ingredient>a cupful of strong hot <ingredient>veal
stock</ingredient> (<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> 
<ingredient>veal</ingredient> put into <ingredient>cold water</ingredient> and
boiled four or five hours), a cupful of boiling <ingredient>steam,</ingredient>
and one grating of <ingredient>nutmeg;</ingredient> let it simmer, stirring it
well for a few minutes, then strain, and it is ready for use. The sauce would
be improved if the usual <ingredient>soup-bunch vegetables</ingredient> were
added to the <ingredient>stock</ingredient> while it is being made.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center">BECHAMEL SAUCE.</purpose>Ingredients: One pint of 
<ingredient>veal stock</ingredient> (a <ingredient>knuckle of
veal</ingredient>put into one gallon of <ingredient>cold water,</ingredient>
boiled five hours, skimmed and strained), half an ounce of 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient> (quarter of a rather small one), quarter of an
ounce of <ingredient>turnip</ingredient>(quarter of a 
<ingredient>turnip</ingredient>), one ounce of <ingredient>carrot</ingredient>
(quarter of a good-sized <ingredient>carrot</ingredient>), half an ounce of 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> (two sprigs), quarter of a 
<ingredient>bay-leaf,</ingredient> half a sprig of 
<ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> three 
<ingredient>pepper-corns,</ingredient>half a lump of 
<ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> a small blade of 
<ingredient>mace.</ingredient></p>
<p>Put one ounce (size of a walnut) of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> into a 
<implement>stew-pan,</implement> and when hot add to it all the above
ingredients but the <ingredient>stock</ingredient> and the 
<ingredient>mace;</ingredient> fry this slowly until it assumes a yellow color;
do not let it brown, as the sauce should be <ingredient>white</ingredient> when
done; stir in now a table-spoonful (one ounce) of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> which let cook a minute, and add the blade of 
<ingredient>mace</ingredient> and the <ingredient>stock</ingredient> (boiling)
from another <implement>stew-pan.</implement> After it has all simmered about
<pb n="128" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=134"/> five minutes, strain it through a sieve without
allowing the vegetables to pass through; return the strained sauce to the fire,
reduce it by boiling about one-third, when add three or four table-spoonfuls of
good thick <ingredient>cream,</ingredient> and the sauce is ready.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SAUCE AUX FINES
HERBS.</purpose>Ingredients: Half a pint of good 
<ingredient>stock,</ingredient> three table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>mushrooms,</ingredient> one table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> two table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and one <ingredient>shallot,</ingredient> all
chopped fine. Fry the <ingredient>shallot</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient> in a little <ingredient>butter</ingredient>until
they assume a light-yellow color, then add a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> and cook it a minute; stir in the 
<ingredient>stock,</ingredient> <ingredient>mushrooms,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> to taste.
If no <ingredient>Worcestershire sauce</ingredient> is at hand, add 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> to taste in its place.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SAUCE TARTARE (<emph
rend="italic">a Cold Sauce</emph>).</purpose>To a scant half pint of 
<ingredient><emph rend="italic">Mayonnaise</emph> sauce</ingredient> (made with
the <ingredient>mustard</ingredient> added) mix in two table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>capers,</ingredient> one small 
<ingredient>shallot</ingredient>(quarter of a rather small 
<ingredient>onion,</ingredient> a poor substitute), two 
<ingredient>gerkins</ingredient> (or two ounces of <ingredient>cucumber
pickle</ingredient>), and one table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> all chopped 
<emph rend="italic">very</emph> fine. This <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> will
keep a long time, and is delicious for fried fish, fried oysters, boiled
cod-fish, boiled tongue, or as dressing for a salad.</p>
</recipe>
<p>By making the following simple sauce, one can produce several by a little
variation.</p>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">A SIMPLE BROWN
SAUCE.</purpose>Put into a saucepan a table-spoonful of minced 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient>When it has taken color, sprinkle in a heaping
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> stir well, and when brown add
half a pint of <ingredient>stock.</ingredient> Cook it a few minutes, and
strain. Now, by adding a cupful of <ingredient>claret,</ingredient> two 
<ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> a sprig of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient>and one of <ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> a 
<ingredient>bay-leaf,</ingredient><ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and by boiling two or three minutes and
straining it, one has the <ingredient rend="italic">sauce
poivrade.</ingredient></p>
<p><variation>If, instead of the claret, one should add to the 
<ingredient><emph rend="italic">poivrade</emph> sauce</ingredient> a
table-spoonful each of minced <ingredient>cucumber pickles,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>vinegar,</ingredient> and <ingredient>capers,</ingredient> one has
the <purpose rend="italic">sauce piquante.</purpose></variation></p>
<pb n="129" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=135"/>
<p><variation>By adding one tea-spoonful of <ingredient>made
mustard,</ingredient> the <ingredient>juice of half a lemon,</ingredient> and a
little <ingredient>vinegar</ingredient> to the 
<emph rend="italic">poivrade,</emph> instead of the claret, one has the 
<purpose rend="italic">sauce Robert.</purpose></variation></p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">BEEF.</hd>
<p>FOR a roast of beef, the sirloin and tenderloin cuts are considered the
best. They are more expensive, and are no better than the best cuts of a rib
roast: the sixth, seventh, and eighth ribs are the choicest cuts. The latter
roasts are served to better advantage by requesting the butcher to remove the
bones and roll the meat. Always have him send the bones also, as they are
valuable acquisition to the <implement>soup-pot.</implement> As the rolled ribs
roasts are shaved evenly off and across the top when carved (the roasts are to
be cooked rare, of course), they present an equally good appearance for a
second cooking. I have really served a roast a third time to good advantage,
serving it the last time 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la jardini&#232;re.</emph> Of course, in summer
large cuts should not be purchased.</p>
<p>If the animal is young and large, and the meat is of clear, bright-red
color, and the fat white, the meat is sure to be tender and juicy.</p>
<p>There is no better sauce for a good, juicy roast of beef than the simple
juice of the meat. Horse-radish sauce may be served if the beef is not
particularly good.</p>
<p>If a sauce is made by adding hot water, flour, pepper, and salt to the
contents of the <implement>baking-pan</implement> after the beef is cooked, do
not serve it with a half-inch depth of pure grease on top in the 
<implement>sauce-boat.</implement> This is as absurd, when it can be allowed to
stand a moment and simply 
<emph rend="italic">poured off,</emph> or taken off with a spoon, as to serve
wet salt at table, which can easily be placed in the oven a few moments to dry,
before sifting. Also, this kind of <implement>baking-pan</implement> sauce
would not be so very objectionable, if cooks generally knew that it does not
require a scientific education, nor a herculean effort, to strain it through a 
<implement>gravy-strainer.</implement></p><pb n="130" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=136"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO ROAST OR BAKE
BEEF.</purpose>A few rules for roasting and baking 
<ingredient>beef:</ingredient> Allow nine minutes to the pound for 
<emph rend="italic">baking</emph> a <ingredient>rolled
rib-roast;</ingredient>for 
<emph rend="italic">roasting</emph> it, allow ten minutes to the pound. 
<ingredient>Sirloin roasts</ingredient> require
eight<illustration><description>An illustration of a roast served on a round
platter and garnished with leafy
vegetables.</description></illustration>minutes to the pound for baking, nine
minutes for roasting.</p>
<p>To bake, have the oven very hot. Before putting in the 
<ingredient>meat,</ingredient> sprinkle over <ingredient>pepper</ingredient>and
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and dredge with <ingredient>flour.</ingredient>
Pour a little <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> into the pan before
baking. Baste frequently.</p>
<p>To roast, have a bright fire. Hang the joint about eighteen inches from it
at first, put a little <ingredient>clarified dripping</ingredient> into the 
<implement>dripping-pan,</implement> baste the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient>with it when first prepared to cook, and every
fifteen minutes afterward. Twenty minutes before the 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient> is done, sprinkle with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> dredge with 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> baste with a little 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> or dripping. Keep the fire bright, and turn the
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> before it. It should be well browned and frothed.
The cut, a <ingredient>rolled rib roast,</ingredient> with <ingredient>mashed
potatoes.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments" ethnicgroup="english">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">YORKSHIRE
PUDDING.</purpose>Ingredients: Six large table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> three <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> (well
beaten), one salt-spoonful of <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> enough 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> to make it of the consistency of soft custard
(about one and a half pints).</p>
<p>Add enough <ingredient>milk</ingredient> to the 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> to make a
smooth, stiff batter; add the <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> and enough more 
<ingredient>milk</ingredient> to make it of the proper consistency. Beat all
well together, pour it into a shallow pan (buttered); bake three-quarters of an
hour.</p>
<p>Some empty the <implement>dripping-pan</implement> three-quarters of an hour
before baked beef is done, and put the pudding into the empty pan, the 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient> on a three-cornered stand over it, that its 
<ingredient>juice</ingredient> may drop on the pudding. If 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient> is roasted, the pudding may be first baked in the
oven, then placed under the <ingredient>beef</ingredient> for fifteen or twenty
minutes, to catch any stray drops. It is as often served, though, baked in the
oven in the ordinary way.</p><pb n="131" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=137"/>
<p>It is cut into squares and served on a hot plate, to be eaten with 
<ingredient>roast beef.</ingredient> It is favorite English dish.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEEF &#224; LA
MODE.</purpose>Six or seven pounds from a <ingredient>round of
beef</ingredient> are generally selected; however, there is a cut from the 
<ingredient>shoulder</ingredient> which answers very well for an 
<emph rend="italic">&#224;-la mode</emph> beef. If the round is used, extract
the bone. Make several deep incisions into the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient>with a thin sharp knife; press into most of them 
<ingredient>lardoons of pork</ingredient> about half an inch square, and two or
three inches long; in the other cuts, and especially the one from whence the
bone was extracted, stuff almost any kind of 
<ingredient>force-meat,</ingredient> the simplest being as follows: Mix some
soaked <ingredient>bread</ingredient> with a little chopped 
<ingredient>beef-suet,</ingredient> <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> any
<ingredient>herbs,</ingredient> such as <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> or <ingredient>summer savory;</ingredient> a
little <ingredient>egg,</ingredient> <ingredient>Cayenne pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and <ingredient>cloves.</ingredient> Press the 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient> into shape, round or oval, and tie it
securely.</p>
<p>Put <ingredient>trimmings of pork</ingredient> into the bottom of a large
saucepan or iron pot, and when hot put over the 
<ingredient>meat;</ingredient>brown it all over by turning all sides to the
bottom of the pot, which should now be uncovered. This will take about half an
hour. Next sprinkle over a heaping table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and brown that also. Put a small plate under
the <ingredient>beef,</ingredient> to prevent burning, and fill the pot with
enough <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> to half cover the 
<ingredient>meat;</ingredient> throw over a saucerful of sliced 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> <ingredient>carrots,</ingredient> some 
<ingredient>turnips,</ingredient> if you like, and some 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> There are iron pots, with tight iron covers,
which are made expressly for this kind of cooking; but if you have none of this
description, you will now have to cover the one used with enough covers,
towels, etc., to make it tight as possible, so that the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> may be cooked in the steam. Let it cook for four
or five hours, never allowing the <ingredient>water</ingredient> to stop
boiling. Watch it, that it may not get too low, and replenish it with 
<ingredient>boiling water.</ingredient> When the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient>is done, put it on a hot platter; strain the 
<ingredient>gravy,</ingredient>skim off every particle of 
<ingredient>fat,</ingredient> add two or three table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>port or sherry wine,</ingredient> also 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> if
necessary, and pour this <ingredient>gravy</ingredient> and selected pieces of
the vegetables over the <ingredient>meat.</ingredient></p>
<p>Baked <ingredient>onions</ingredient> (see page 201), placed around the 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient> as a garnish, complete the dish for a course at
dinner.</p>
</recipe><pb n="132" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=138"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>BRAISED BEEF (No. 1).</purpose>--<attribution
rend="italic">New York Cooking-school.</attribution></p>
<p>Ingredients: Six-pounds <ingredient>loin of beef,</ingredient> half a pound
of <ingredient>pork,</ingredient> three-fourths of a cupful of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> two-ounce <ingredient>onion</ingredient> (one
small <ingredient>onion</ingredient>), three-ounce 
<ingredient>carrot</ingredient> (half a large <ingredient>carrot</ingredient>),
one-ounce <ingredient>turnip,</ingredient> one-third of a bunch of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> one sprig of 
<ingredient>thyme,</ingredient>two <ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> three 
<ingredient>allspice,</ingredient>six <ingredient>pepper-corns,</ingredient>
half of a <ingredient>bay-leaf.</ingredient></p>
<p>Trim the <ingredient>beef</ingredient> into a shapely piece; stick a knife
quite through different portions of it, in which apertures press slices or 
<ingredient>lardoons of pork,</ingredient> half an inch square, and three or
four inches long. Tie the <ingredient>beef</ingredient> into shape with twine.
Lay scraps of <ingredient>pork</ingredient> on the bottom of a saucepan, place
it on a brisk fire, and when hot put in the <ingredient>beef;</ingredient>brown
it all over by turning the different sides to the bottom of the uncovered
saucepan. It will take about half an hour to brown it. Now sprinkle over the 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient> three-fourths of a cupful of 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> (three ounces), also the vegetables and 
<ingredient>spices;</ingredient> and brown all this by again turning the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> over the fire. When they are of fine color, pour
over a tumblerful of <ingredient>claret,</ingredient> which reduce to half;
then fill the saucepan with boiling <ingredient>stock</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>water;</ingredient> cover it tightly, and place it in a hot oven
for two and a half hours. When done, put the <ingredient>beef</ingredient> on a
hot platter.</p>
<p>Strain the <ingredient>sauce in which the beef was cooked,</ingredient> take
off every particle of fat, season with more <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> if
necessary; pour about half a cupful of it over the 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient> in the platter, and serve the remainder in a 
<implement>sauce-boat.</implement></p>
<p>The <ingredient>beef</ingredient> may be surrounded with <ingredient>green
pease,</ingredient> prepared as follows: Wash a can of <ingredient>American
pease</ingredient> in <ingredient>cold water,</ingredient> then put them over
the fire with half a cupful of <ingredient>boiling water,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> one ounce of 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient> and one salt-spoonful of 
<ingredient>sugar.</ingredient> When the <ingredient>pease</ingredient> have
simmered a minute, strain them from their liquor, and place them in the platter
around the <ingredient>beef.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BRAISED BEEF (No.
2).</purpose>The same cut which is used for an 
<emph rend="italic">&#224;-la-mode</emph> beef may be braised in the same
manner as is described for a <ingredient>fillet of beef</ingredient> braised.
This may be served with the <ingredient>gravy,</ingredient> as it there
described, or with the addition of the <ingredient><emph
rend="italic">jardini&#232;re</emph> of vegetables.</ingredient></p>
</recipe><pb n="133" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=139"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BRAISED BEEF, WITH HORSE-RADISH
SAUCE.</purpose>Braise five pounds of fresh <ingredient>beef</ingredient> (not
too lean), with an <ingredient>onion</ingredient> and a 
<ingredient>carrot</ingredient> sliced, two or three sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> four or five 
<ingredient>cloves,</ingredient>a little <ingredient>celery,</ingredient> if
you have it, <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient>
and about a quart of <ingredient>boiling water.</ingredient> Cover it tightly,
and let it cook about three hours, replenishing with a little 
<ingredient>boiling water,</ingredient> if the steam escapes too much.</p>
<p><ingredient rend="italic">Sauce.</ingredient>--Simmer together for quarter
of an hour half a cupful of <ingredient>grated cracker,</ingredient> half a
cupful of grated <ingredient>horse-radish,</ingredient> one cupful of 
<ingredient>cream,</ingredient> a table-spoonful of the <ingredient>fat from
the top of the water in which the beef is cooked,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and <ingredient>pepper.</ingredient></p>
<p>Place the <ingredient>beef</ingredient> on the platter in which it is to be
served, and pour the <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> around it. Garnish with 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">FILLET OF BEEF.</purpose>I will
be very specific about the <ingredient>fillet of beef,</ingredient> as it is
easily managed at home, and is very expensive ordered from the 
<emph rend="italic">restaurateur.</emph> His price is generally ten dollars for
a dressed and cooked <ingredient>fillet of beef</ingredient> for a dinner for
ten or twelve persons. To buy it from the butcher costs a dollar a pound when
dressed; three pounds are quite sufficient for ten or twelve persons. To lard
it (an affair of ten minutes) would cost ten cents more; a box of 
<ingredient>French canned mushrooms,</ingredient> an additional forty cents; a
little <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> five cents.</p>
<p>One sees a <ingredient>fillet of beef</ingredient> at almost every dinner
party. "That same fillet, with mushrooms," a frequent diner-out will say. I
hope to see it continued, for among the substantials there is nothing more
satisfactory.</p>
<p>A good butcherw ill always deliver a <ingredient>fillet of
beef</ingredient>already dressed; if, however, it is necessary to have it
dressed at home, the 
<emph rend="italic">modus operandi</emph> is as follows:</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO TRIM A FILLET OF
BEEF.</purpose>The fillet is the under side of the <ingredient>loin of
beef.</ingredient> The <ingredient>steaks</ingredient> cut from this part are
called <ingredient>porter-house-steaks.</ingredient> This under side, or
fillet, is covered with skin and fat. "All the skin and fat must be removed
from the top of the fillet, from one end to the<pb n="134"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=140"/>other; then the rib-bones are disengaged. The fat adhering to
the side opposite the ribs is only partially removed. Now the sinewy skin
covering the upper <ingredient>meat</ingredient> of the fillet must be removed
in strips, proceeding by slipping the blade of the knife between the skin and
the <ingredient>meat.</ingredient> This operation is very simple; yet it
requires great precision. The upper part of a trimmed fillet must be smooth, 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> must not be furrowed by hollows occasioned by
wrong movements of the knife. The skin being removed, both extremities of the
fillet are rounded. The fat inside the rib is the only portion of fat allowed
to adhere to the <ingredient>meat.</ingredient> The larding of the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> is applied to its upper surface."</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO COOK A FILLET OF
BEEF.</purpose>After it is trimmed and larded, put it into a small 
<implement>baking-pan,</implement> in the bottom of which are some chopped
pieces of <ingredient>pork</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>beef-suet;</ingredient>sprinkle some <ingredient>salt</ingredient>
and <ingredient>pepper</ingredient>over it, and put a large ladleful of hot 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> into the bottom of the pan, or it may be simply
basted with <ingredient>boiling water.</ingredient> Half an hour (if the oven
is very hot, as it should be) before dinner, put it into the oven. Baste it
often, supplying a little hot <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> if necessary.</p>
<p>French cooks often braise a <ingredient>fillet of beef.</ingredient> I do
not like it as well as baking or roasting, as the 
<ingredient>vegetables</ingredient> and <ingredient>wine</ingredient> destroy
the beef's own flavor.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO MAKE THE MUSHROOM
SAUCE.</purpose>Take a ladleful of <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> free from
grease, from the <implement>stock-pot;</implement> add to it part of the 
<ingredient>juice from the can of mushrooms;</ingredient> thicken it with a
little <ingredient>flour</ingredient> and <ingredient>butter</ingredient> mixed
(<ingredient rend="italic">roux</ingredient>); add 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a few drops
of <ingredient>lemon-juice;</ingredient> now add the 
<ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient>--let them simmer a few minutes. Pour the 
<ingredient>sauce</ingredient> over the <ingredient>fillet of
beef,</ingredient> and serve.</p><illustration><description>A larded fillet of
beef divided into three sections. The middle section has been removed and
placed a space away from the two ends of the fillets, which remain further
back.</description></illustration>
<p>At small dinner companies, where the host carves, or has a good carver, the
fillet can be served entire, decorated as elaborately as one wishes. If,
however, the dinner<pb n="135" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=141"/> is served from the side, it
is convenient to have it carved as shown in cut on preceding page. The centre
of the fillet is disengaged, then carved, and returned to its place. It has
then the appearance of being whole.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO GARNISH A FILLET OF
BEEF.</purpose>As I have mentioned before, a <ingredient>fillet of
beef</ingredient> is generally served with 
<ingredient>mushrooms;</ingredient>sometimes with different 
<ingredient>vegetables 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la jardini&#232;re;</emph></ingredient>
sometimes with <ingredient>French pease;</ingredient> sometimes with 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> cut into little round balls, and fried in
boiling <ingredient>lard,</ingredient> called <ingredient>potatoes 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la Parisienne</emph></ingredient> on a French bill
of fare, sometimes<illustration><description>A larded fillet of beef served on
a large oval platter. A ring of garnishes surrounds the
beef.</description></illustration>with <ingredient>stuffed
tomatoes;</ingredient> sometimes <implement>skewers</implement> are put in
stuck through a <ingredient>turnip</ingredient> carved into a cup, and this cup
holds <ingredient>horse-radish.</ingredient> But some people say 
<implement>skewers</implement> remind them of steamboat cooking; then some
people are not easily pleased, anyway; and who remembers of having seen so many
<implement>skewers</implement> on steamboats, after all? Not that I am
particularly advocating <implement>skewers,</implement> but I think dishes 
<emph rend="italic">taste</emph> better, as a general thing, when they are
decorated in almost any manner. I once saw at a dinner in Paris hot slices of
roast or baked <ingredient>fillet of beef,</ingredient> tastefully arranged on
a platter, with <ingredient rend="italic">sauce Hollandaise</ingredient>(rather
thick) poured over each slice in the form of a ring. It was a success.</p>
<p>The manner of garnishing a <ingredient>fillet of beef</ingredient> 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la Godard</emph> and 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la Proven&#231;ale,</emph> etc., with 
<ingredient>truffles,</ingredient> <ingredient
rend="italic">quenelles,</ingredient> <ingredient>livers,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>olives,</ingredient> etc., all stewed with 
<ingredient>wines,</ingredient> <ingredient>stocks,</ingredient> etc., I will
not explain. It is enough to make one groan to think of learning to make them,
and more than ever to eat them.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO ROAST A FILLET OF
BEEF.</purpose>Lard it, and bind it carefully to the 
<implement>skewer</implement> with a small<pb n="136" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=142"/> wire;
cover the fillet with <ingredient>sweet salad-oil</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>lemon-juice.</ingredient> Do not place it too near the fire at
first, as it would scorch the larding. Baste it frequently.</p>
<p>A professional cook would glaze the fillet two or three times with a 
<implement>glazing-brush,</implement> beginning the first time about five
minutes before taking it away from the fire, then glazing it again when it is
on the dish to be served.</p>
<p>Glaze is merely strong <ingredient>stock</ingredient> boiled down until it
is almost a thick jelly. When the fillet is carved at table, the little 
<ingredient>juice</ingredient> which falls into the dish should be poured over
each of the slices.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO BRAISE A FILLET OF
BEEF.</purpose>Put the larded fillet into a 
<implement>braising-pan</implement>or <implement>stew-pan;</implement> put in
trimmings of <ingredient>pork,</ingredient> <ingredient>onions</ingredient>
(with some <ingredient>cloves</ingredient> stuck in), 
<ingredient>carrots,</ingredient> a little <ingredient>celery</ingredient> (all
cut in thick slices), and a bunch of <ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> 
<ingredient>Salt</ingredient> the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> slightly. Pour
in <ingredient>stock</ingredient>and <ingredient>white wine,</ingredient> so
that it may reach to half the height of the <ingredient>beef.</ingredient> If a
<implement>braising-pan</implement> is used, cover the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> with a well-buttered paper, as in that case live
coals are put on top of the pan. If you use a 
<implement>stew-pan,</implement>simply cover it as tight as possible. Let it
simmer, replenishing it, when necessary, with more boiling 
<ingredient>stock.</ingredient> It will require an hour or and hour and a half
to cook. When done, drain it; a professional cook would glaze it. Put it into
the oven a moment to dry the larding. Pass the 
<ingredient>cooking-stock</ingredient> through a sieve; skim off the fat; add
some <ingredient>tomato sauce;</ingredient> let it boil until it is reduced to
the degree requisite. Serve the <ingredient>fillet</ingredient> whole, or
carved in slices ready to serve. Generally only the middle part of the fillet
is used, as the whole fillet it quite large--weighing from eight to ten
pounds.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO TRIM WITH VEGETABLES (<emph
rend="italic">&#224; la Jardini&#232;re</emph>).</purpose>Every kind of
vegetable is used, such as <ingredient>potatoes,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>carrots,</ingredient> <ingredient>turnips,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>beets,</ingredient> small <ingredient>onions,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>cauliflower blossoms,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>asparagus-heads,</ingredient> <ingredient>French
beans,</ingredient> <ingredient>pease,</ingredient> etc. The larger vegetables
are cut into little fancy shapes with a 
<implement>vegetable-cutter</implement>or a <implement>fluted
knife,</implement> or with a little plain knife, into little balls, olives,
squares, diamonds, or into any form to suit the taste. Each kind of vegetable
be boiled separately in <ingredient>salted water</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>stock.</ingredient> The<pb n="137"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=143"/><illustration><description>Slices of larded beef served on a
large oval platter, surrounded with vegetable
garnishes.</description></illustration>vegetables are piled into little groups,
each pile being of one kind of vegetable.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">FILLET OF BEEF CUT INTO SLICES
OR SCOLLOPS.</purpose>This is a good way of managing the 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient> that is left from the roast or baked 
<ingredient>fillet of beef</ingredient> to be served the second day. Cut the
fillet, after reheating it in the oven, into slices about three-fourths of an
inch thick, and two inches wide. Form a circle in a dish lapping each of these
scollops partly over the other. Fill the centre with a <ingredient>tomato
sauce,</ingredient> or <ingredient>potatoes 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la Parisienne,</emph></ingredient> or 
<ingredient>mushrooms,</ingredient> or with any of the small vegetables, such
as <ingredient>pease,</ingredient> <ingredient>beans,</ingredient> little balls
of <ingredient>carrots,</ingredient> <ingredient>potatoes,</ingredient> etc.,
in different little piles; or with <ingredient>truffles</ingredient> (they can
be procured canned) sliced, with <ingredient>Madeira sauce;</ingredient> or
with <ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>truffles</ingredient>mixed, with <ingredient>Madeira
sauce.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEEFSTEAK.</purpose>The 
<ingredient>porter-house and tenderloin steaks</ingredient> are best. Of
course, there is great difference in the different cuts of these 
<ingredient>steaks.</ingredient> For a cheap <ingredient>steak,</ingredient> a
good cut of what it called <ingredient>chuck-steak</ingredient> is best. It has
more flavor and juice, and is more tender than the 
<ingredient>round-steak,</ingredient> costing the same price.</p>
<p>Have the choice <ingredient>steaks</ingredient> cut half an inch thick at
least; they are even better three-quarters of an inch thick. Grease the 
<implement>gridiron</implement> well with <ingredient>pork or
beef-suet.</ingredient> Have it quite hot. Put on the 
<ingredient>steak</ingredient> over a hot, clear fire; cover it with a 
<implement>baking-pan.</implement> In a moment, when the 
<ingredient>steak</ingredient> is colored, turn it over. Watch it constantly,
turning it whenever it gets a little brown. Do not stick the fork into the
middle of the <ingredient>steak,</ingredient> only into the sides,
<pb n="138" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=144"/> where it will do least harm by letting out the
juice. It should be quite rare or pink in the centre, though not 
<emph rend="italic">raw.</emph> When cooked enough, put it on a hot platter;
sprinkle over plenty of <ingredient>salt</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient>--mind not to put on the 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> and <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> before the 
<ingredient>steak</ingredient> is cooked; then spread over the top some sweet,
fresh <ingredient>butter.</ingredient> Set the platter in the oven a few
moments, to let the <ingredient>butter</ingredient> soak a little in the 
<ingredient>steak;</ingredient> then serve it immediately. Do not use too much 
<ingredient>butter;</ingredient> there should be none at all, or at least only
a few stray drops, in the bottom of the platter. There should be no gravy. The
juice of a properly cooked <ingredient>steak</ingredient> is supposed to be in
the inside of the <ingredient>steak,</ingredient> and not swimming in the
dish.</p>
<p>A <ingredient>steak</ingredient> is much improved by a simple addition,
called by professional cooks 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la ma&#238;tre d'h&#244;tel.</emph></p>
<p>When the <ingredient>steak</ingredient> is cooked, it is placed on the hot
platter. First, then, <ingredient>salt</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> are sprinkled over; then comes a sprinkling of
very finely chopped <ingredient>parsley;</ingredient> then some drops of 
<ingredient>lemon-juice;</ingredient> lastly, small pieces of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> are carefully spread over. Place the 
<ingredient>steak</ingredient> into the oven for a few moments until the 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> is well melted and soaked into the 
<ingredient>steak.</ingredient></p>
<p>For extra-company breakfasts, only the fillets, 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> the tender parts of the 
<ingredient>porter-house or tenderloin steaks,</ingredient> are used. They are
cut into little even shapes, round or oval, one for each plate. They are
cooked, then served in a hot dish, surrounded with <ingredient>Saratoga
potatoes,</ingredient> or <ingredient>fried potatoes</ingredient> in any form,
or with <ingredient>water-cresses,</ingredient> or with 
<ingredient>mushrooms,</ingredient> or <ingredient>stuffed
tomatoes,</ingredient> or <ingredient>green pease,</ingredient> etc.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CORNED BEEF.</purpose>A good
piece of <ingredient>beef</ingredient> well corned, then well boiled, is a most
excellent dish.</p>
<p>Put it into the pot with enough <ingredient>cold water</ingredient> to just
cover it. When it comes to a boil, set it on the back of the range, so that it
will boil moderately. Too fast boiling renders 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient>tough, yet the <ingredient>water</ingredient>
should never be allowed to cease boiling until the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> is done; skim often. Let it boil at least four or
five hours, according to its size. It must be thoroughly done. In England,
where this dish is an especial favorite, <ingredient>carrots</ingredient> are
always boiled and served with the <ingredient>beef.</ingredient> The 
<ingredient>carrot</ingredient><pb n="139" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=145"/> flavor improves
the <ingredient>meat,</ingredient> and the <ingredient>meat</ingredient>
improves the <ingredient>carrot.</ingredient><illustration><description>A piece
of corned beef served on a round platter and garnished with
vegetables.</description></illustration>Do not put the 
<ingredient>carrots</ingredient> into the pot, however, until there is only
time for them to become thoroughly cooked before serving (about three-quarters
of an hour). Serve the <ingredient>carrots</ingredient> around the 
<ingredient>beef.</ingredient></p>
<p><variation>In America, <ingredient>cabbage</ingredient> is oftener boiled
with <ingredient>corned beef.</ingredient> This is very nice also. If 
<ingredient>cabbage</ingredient> is used, add at the same time one or two
little <ingredient>red peppers.</ingredient> When about to serve, press out all
the <ingredient>water</ingredient> from the 
<ingredient>cabbage,</ingredient>adding little pieces of 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> Serve the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> placed
in the centre of the <ingredient>cabbage.</ingredient></variation></p>
<p>Little <ingredient>pickles</ingredient> are a pretty garnish for 
<ingredient>corned beef,</ingredient> with or without the vegetables.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>CORNED BEEF TO SERVE COLD</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Gratz Brown</attribution>).</p>
<p>If it is too salt, soak it for an hour in <ingredient>cold
water,</ingredient> then put it over the fire, covered with fresh 
<ingredient>cold water,</ingredient> four or five 
<ingredient>cloves</ingredient> (for about six pounds of 
<ingredient>beef</ingredient>), and three table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>molasses.</ingredient> Boil it slowly. In an hour change the 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> adding five more 
<ingredient>cloves</ingredient> and three more table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>molasses.</ingredient> In two hours more, press the 
<ingredient>beef,</ingredient> after removing the bones, into a basin rather
small for it; then, turning it over, place a <implement>flat-iron</implement>on
top. When entirely cold, the <ingredient>beef</ingredient> is to be sliced for
lunch or tea.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEEFSTEAK STEWED.</purpose>Never
use a choice <ingredient>steak</ingredient> for a stew. Stewing is only a good
way of cooking an inferior <ingredient>steak.</ingredient> The <ingredient>meat
from a soup-bone</ingredient> would make a very good stew.</p>
<p>Put ripe <ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient> (peeled and cut) into a 
<implement>stew-pan;</implement> sprinkle over 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient>and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Let them cook
a little to make some juice; put in the pieces of 
<ingredient>beef,</ingredient> some little pieces of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> mixed with <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> two
or three <ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> and no 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> Let it stew until the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> is quite done. Then press the 
<ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient> through a sieve. Serve all on the same
dish.</p>
</recipe><pb n="140" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=146"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEEFSTEAK
ROLLED.</purpose>Procure a <ingredient>round steak,</ingredient> spread over it
a layer of almost any kind of <ingredient>force-meat.</ingredient> An ordinary 
<ingredient>bread, onion, thyme, or parsley dressing,</ingredient> used to
stuff turkeys, is very good. Begin, then, at one end of the 
<ingredient>steak,</ingredient> and roll it carefully; tie the roll to keep it
in shape. Bake it in the oven as you would a turkey, basting very often. Make a
<ingredient>gravy</ingredient> of the <ingredient>drippings,</ingredient>adding
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> mixed; season with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> strain, skim
off the fat, and pour it around the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> when served.
Slice it neatly off the end when carving.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEEF ROLL (<emph
rend="italic">Cannelon de B&#x0153;uf</emph>).</purpose>Chop two pounds of 
<ingredient>lean beef</ingredient> very fine; chop and pound in a 
<implement>mortar</implement> half a pound of <ingredient>fat
bacon,</ingredient> and mix it with the <ingredient>beef.</ingredient> Season
it with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> (it
will not require much <ingredient>salt</ingredient>), a small 
<ingredient>nutmeg,</ingredient> the grated <ingredient>rind of a
lemon,</ingredient> the <ingredient>juice</ingredient> of a quarter of it, a
heaping table-spoonful of <ingredient>parsley</ingredient> minced fine; or it
can be seasoned with an additional table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>onion;</ingredient> or, if no <ingredient>onion</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> is at hand, with <ingredient>summer
savory</ingredient><illustration><description>An illustration of a beef
roll.</description></illustration>and <ingredient>thyme.</ingredient> Bind all
these together with two <ingredient>eggs.</ingredient> Form them into a roll;
surround the roll with buttered paper, which tie securely around it. Then cover
it with a <ingredient>paste</ingredient> made of 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient>and <ingredient>water.</ingredient> Bake two
hours. Remove the paper and crust. Serve it hot, with 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce</ingredient> or <ingredient>brown gravy.</ingredient>
This may be made with <ingredient>raw or under-dressed meat.</ingredient> If
the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> is not raw, but under-dressed, surround the
roll with <ingredient>pie-crust.</ingredient> Bake, and serve with 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce,</ingredient> or any of the <ingredient>brown
sauces,</ingredient> poured in the bottom of the dish. <ingredient>Potato 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes</emph></ingredient> may be served around it.</p>
</recipe><section class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">WHAT TO DO WITH COLD
COOKED BEEF.</hd>
<p>There is a good-sized book written on this subject. When there are about two
hundred ways of utilizing cold cooked<pb n="141" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=147"/> beef, one
should not regard it contemptuously. I studied this treatise, and practiced
from it, but soon considered the few old ways the best, after all. 
<emph rend="italic">Croquettes</emph> are very good, and there are
beef-sausages, or cakes, seasoned in different ways; beef rolls, meat pies, and
mince-pies, made from a few scraps of cold cooked beef, are all exceedingly
nice when properly made.</p></section>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEEF
HASH.</purpose>Notwithstanding this distinguished dish is so much abused, I
particularly like it; not swimming hash, nor onion hash, nor Southern or
Western hash, nor yet hash half cooked, but New York hash. I know a New York
family who set a most expensive and elaborate table, which table is especially
noted for its good hash. Large joints are purchased with special reference to
this dish. <ingredient>Cold corned beef</ingredient> is generally considered
best. The hash to which I have referred, however, is generally made of 
<ingredient>cold roast beef.</ingredient></p>
<p>Chop the cold cooked <ingredient>meat</ingredient> rather fine; use half as
much <ingredient>meat</ingredient> as of boiled 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> (chopped when cold). Put a little 
<ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> and <ingredient>butter</ingredient> into
an iron saucepan; when it boils again, put in the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient>and <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> well salted
and peppered. Let it cook well, stirring it occasionally--not enough to make a 
<emph rend="italic">Pur&#233;e</emph> or mush of it. It is not done before
there is a coating at the bottom of the saucepan, from which the hash will free
itself without sticking. The hash must not be at all watery, nor yet too dry,
but so that it will stand quite firm on well-trimmed and buttered slices of 
<ingredient>toast,</ingredient> and to be thus served on a platter. 
<emph rend="italic">Voil&#224;!</emph></p>
<p><variation><purpose>Chicken or turkey hash</purpose> should be made in the
same way.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets" class2="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>MEAT PIE</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">French Cook</attribution>).</p>
<p>Cut <ingredient>cold cooked meat</ingredient> into quite small dice; add 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a little 
<ingredient>nutmeg,</ingredient> and two or three sprigs of chopped 
<ingredient>parsley;</ingredient> also a little 
<ingredient>thyme</ingredient>and a piece of <ingredient>bay-leaf,</ingredient>
if you have them, but the two latter <ingredient>herbs</ingredient> may be
omitted. Put a little <ingredient>butter</ingredient> into a saucepan, and when
hot throw in a table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> which brown
carefully; pour in then several table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>hot
water,</ingredient> or, better, <ingredient>stock;</ingredient> mix well; then
introduce<pb n="142" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=148"/> the <ingredient>meat dice;</ingredient>
stir all well over the fire, cooking it thoroughly. Just before taking it up,
mix in one or two <ingredient>eggs.</ingredient> It should be quite moist, yet
consistent. Put a thin <ingredient>pie-crust</ingredient> into a 
<implement>pudding-dish.</implement> Fill in a few table-spoonfuls of the
mixture; then lay on it a thin strip of <ingredient>bacon;</ingredient>continue
these layers until the dish is filled. Now fit a piece of crust over the top;
turn the edges in a fancy manner, and make a cut in the centre. Take a strip of
<ingredient>pie-paste,</ingredient> form it into a tie or knot, wet the bottom,
and place it over the cut in the centre of the pie, so as not to obstruct the
opening.</p>
<p>The proper way to make a <ingredient>meat</ingredient> pie is with a 
<implement>pie-mold</implement> (see page 58). Butter the mold, press the crust
neatly around in the inside and bottom, and continue, as explained for the 
<implement>pudding-dish.</implement> When baked, the wire holding the sides of
the mold is drawn out, and the mold removed from the pie. <variation>This 
<purpose><alt synonym1="veal pie" synonym2="lamb pie">pie</alt></purpose> can
be made with <ingredient>veal</ingredient> or <ingredient>lamb,</ingredient> in
the same manner.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets" class2="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MEAT RISSOLES.</purpose>For 
<emph rend="italic">rissoles,</emph> <ingredient>cold beef,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> <ingredient>veal,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>tongue,</ingredient> or <ingredient>lamb</ingredient> may be used,
separately or mixed. The <ingredient>meat</ingredient> should not be chopped,
but cut into quite small dice. It is well to add to it a slight flavoring of
chopped <ingredient>pork,</ingredient> and a little finely chopped 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> As the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> can be
prepared in different ways, the addition of a superfluous 
<ingredient>mushroom</ingredient> or two, cut into dice, would not be
amiss.</p>
<p>Put a small piece of <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> size of a pigeon's
egg, into a saucepan, and when it begins to boil add a heaping tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> stir for a minute to cook the 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> then add three or four table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>boiling water,</ingredient> or, what is much better, 
<ingredient>stock,</ingredient> <ingredient>gravy,</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>brown or white sauce</ingredient> if you happen to have it; when
well mixed, add about two cupfuls of the <ingredient>meat
dice,</ingredient>heat well, and just before taking from the fire stir in an 
<ingredient>egg.</ingredient></p>
<p>The <ingredient>scraps of puff-paste</ingredient> are generally preferred,
yet any kind of <ingredient>pie-paste</ingredient> may be used for 
<emph rend="italic">rissoles.</emph> Roll the 
<ingredient>paste</ingredient>quite thin (one-sixth of an inch); wet it about
three inches from the edge, and place upon it little balls (a generous
tea-spoonful in each one) of the prepared <ingredient>meat,</ingredient> at
distances of four inches<pb n="143" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=149"/> apart; now lap over the
edge of the <ingredient>paste,</ingredient> quite covering the balls of 
<ingredient>meat;</ingredient> press the side of the hand between each one,
and, with the edge of a <implement>tumbler</implement> or 
<implement>muffin-ring,</implement> press the 
<ingredient>paste</ingredient>close to the <ingredient>meat;</ingredient> with
a <implement>biscuit-cutter</implement> (scolloped one prettier) cut out each
enveloped ball of <ingredient>meat</ingredient> into half circles. Now cut off
the rough edges of the remaining <ingredient>paste,</ingredient> and proceed to
make other rows of the 
<emph rend="italic">rissoles</emph> in the same manner. With a brush wet all
the tops with the <ingredient>yolk of an egg.</ingredient> Bake the 
<emph rend="italic">rissoles</emph> in a hot oven, and serve them hot on a
folded napkin. If they get cold, they may be reheated just before serving.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEEF OR ANY COLD-MEAT
SAUSAGES.</purpose>Chop <ingredient>cold cooked beef</ingredient> very fine;
add a fifth as much <ingredient>pork,</ingredient> also chopped fine; 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a little 
<ingredient>sage,</ingredient> or any <ingredient>herbs</ingredient> preferred,
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> and a few sprinkles of 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> mix all together with an 
<ingredient>egg,</ingredient> or <ingredient>eggs;</ingredient> form into
little balls, fry in <ingredient>butter</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>lard</ingredient> in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan.</implement> These sausages are good for
breakfast served around a centre of 
<ingredient>apple-sauce.</ingredient>Or,</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">FOR RICE AND MEAT
CAKES,</purpose>make as in last receipt, adding a very little 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> Stir in a quarter or half of its quantity of
boiled <ingredient>rice;</ingredient> or, on another occasion, 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs</ingredient> may be substituted for 
<ingredient>rice.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BEEF CROQUETTES.</purpose>There
is no more satisfactory manner of using cold cooked<illustration><description>A
stack of cylindrical croquettes served on a round platter and garnished with
leafy vegetables.</description></illustration><ingredient>beef</ingredient>than
for 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes,</emph> which may be served with 
<ingredient>tomato or any of the brown sauces,</ingredient> or may be served
without <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> at all, as is generally the case. They
are made in the same manner as is described for chicken 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes</emph> (see page 175), merely substituting the
same amount of <ingredient>beef</ingredient> for the chicken, and of 
<ingredient>rice</ingredient> for the brains.</p>
</recipe><pb n="144" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=150"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading"><alt
synonym1="croquettes of soup meat">A CHEAP ARRANGEMENT.</alt></purpose>Purchase
two <ingredient>soup bones</ingredient> (twenty cents). Boil them four or five
hours with a few <ingredient>vegetables</ingredient> (as described for stock,
see page 79). The <ingredient>stock</ingredient> will make two or three soups.
Cut up the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> for 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes.</emph> Of course the 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes</emph> are better made with the best of 
<ingredient>meat,</ingredient> yet may be excellent when made of the 
<ingredient>soup meat.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets" class2="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MINCE-PIES (<emph
rend="italic">made from Remnants of Cold Beef</emph>).</purpose>A good
disposition in winter of <ingredient>cold roast beef</ingredient> is to make
with it two or three mince-pies, as by the following receipt: One cupful of
chopped <ingredient>meat</ingredient> (quarter of it 
<ingredient>fat</ingredient>), two cupfuls of 
<ingredient>apple,</ingredient>one tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> one table-spoonful of ground
<ingredient>allspice,</ingredient> half a table-spoonful of ground 
<ingredient>cinnamon,</ingredient> half a table-spoonful of ground 
<ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> one cupful of 
<ingredient>sugar,</ingredient>half a cupful of 
<ingredient>raisins,</ingredient> half a cupful of 
<ingredient>currants,</ingredient> one cupful of 
<ingredient>cider;</ingredient> or, if one has no 
<ingredient>cider,</ingredient> use the same amount of 
<ingredient>cider-vinegar</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>water</ingredient>mixed--say half of each.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets" class2="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">A COMMON POT-PIE OF VEAL, BEEF,
OR CHICKEN.</purpose>Cut the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> into pieces, and put
them into enough <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> to cover them well; add

also two or three strips of <ingredient>pork.</ingredient> Cover the pot
closely. Boil an hour, then season with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> to taste, and a little piece of 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient></p>
<p>Just before taking out the ingredients of the pot to send to table, put into
it, when the <ingredient>water</ingredient> is boiling, separate spoonfuls of
batter made with two <ingredient>eggs</ingredient> well beaten, two and a half
or three cupfuls of <ingredient>buttermilk,</ingredient> one tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>soda,</ingredient> and sufficient 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient>The batter should be made just before it is
cooked. It takes about three or four minutes to cook it, the 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> not to be allowed to stop boiling. The dish
should then be served immediately, or the dumplings will become heavy.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CALF'S HEART.</purpose>If people
generally knew how nice a <ingredient>calf's heart</ingredient> is, if properly
cooked, the butchers would never charge so little as ten cents fo it. In
France, the <ingredient>calf's heart</ingredient> and kidneys are
<pb n="145" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=151"/> considered great delicacies. In America they are
often thrown away.</p>
<p>Merely wash off the blood. One could, by soaking, extract all the flavor
from the <ingredient>heart.</ingredient> Stuff it with a <ingredient>veal
force-meat stuffing,</ingredient> or a common 
<ingredient>stuffing,</ingredient> often used for turkeys, of 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> a little
<ingredient>thyme</ingredient> or <ingredient>sage,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>egg,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient>and<illustration><description>An illustration
of a calf's heart served on a round platter.</description></illustration>
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Tie a buttered paper over the mouth of the 
<ingredient>heart</ingredient> to keep the<ingredient>stuffing</ingredient> in
place. Put it into a small <implement>baking-pan</implement> with a little 
<ingredient>hot water,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Bake nearly two hours, basting it very
frequently. When done, thicken the <ingredient>gravy</ingredient> with 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> strain, skim, and season it, and pour it on the
dish around the <ingredient>heart.</ingredient> Garnish the plate with 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> first boiled until nearly done, then seasoned
with <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a
little <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> and browned in the oven.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TONGUE, WITH MUSTARD PICKLE
SAUCE.</purpose>Cut boiled <ingredient>tongue</ingredient> into slices; fry
them in a little hot <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> with a sprinkle of minced
<ingredient>onion</ingredient> thrown in. Then, for the 
<ingredient>sauce,</ingredient> take out the slices of 
<ingredient>tongue;</ingredient> put in a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and when brown, a tea-cupful of <ingredient>hot
water.</ingredient> When done, strain, and season with 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> and <ingredient>pepper;</ingredient> add a
table-spoonful of chopped <ingredient>pickles</ingredient> (
<ingredient>piccalilli</ingredient> is best); however, common 
<ingredient>cucumber pickles</ingredient> may be used, with a little 
<ingredient>mustard</ingredient> added; or the 
<ingredient>sauce</ingredient>may be flavored with 
<ingredient>capers,</ingredient> or with both <ingredient>capers</ingredient>
and <ingredient>pickles.</ingredient> Let the slices of 
<ingredient>tongue</ingredient> soak in the <ingredient>sauce</ingredient>
until ready to serve, then arrange the slices of<ingredient>tongue</ingredient>
on a platter, one lapped over the other, and pour over the 
<ingredient>sauce.</ingredient> A <ingredient>beef tongue</ingredient> may be
braised, and served with <ingredient>spinach</ingredient> or 
<ingredient rend="italic">sauce Tartare,</ingredient> as described for 
<ingredient>sheep's tongues.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TONGUE SLICES, WITH SPINACH AND
SAUCE TARTARE.</purpose>Braise the <ingredient>tongue</ingredient> as described
for sheep's tongues (see page<pb n="146" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=152"/> 158): arrange a
circle of the slices around a platter, and on each slices smooth a little hill
(enough for one person) of <ingredient>spinach</ingredient> prepared as
described in the same receipt for "sheep's tongues with spinach." Put either a
spoonful of <ingredient rend="italic">sauce Tartare</ingredient> or a slice of 
<ingredient>lemon</ingredient> into or on the top of each 
<ingredient>spinach</ingredient> mold. This makes a nice lunch or dinner
dish.</p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">VEAL.</hd>
<p>THE best pieces of veal are the loin and the fillet. A variety of dishes can
be made with veal cutlets and their different accompaniments. Veal is always
better cooked with pork or ham. Professional cooks generally trim and lard
their veal cutlets, serving them with tomato sauce, pease, beans, breakfast
bacon, lemon-slices, cucumbers, etc. For a cheap dish, one of the most
satisfactory is a knuckle of veal made into a ragout, or pot-pie. Any of the
inferior cuts may be made into a 
<emph rend="italic">blanquette.</emph></p>
<p>A 
<emph rend="italic">fricandeau</emph> of veal is perhaps considered the most
distinguished veal dish. I would always advise the trimming of veal cutlets. It
gives little trouble, but the appearance is much improved, and the trimmings
should be thrown into the <implement>stock-pot.</implement> Veal should always
be thoroughly cooked.</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ROAST OF VEAL--THE
FILLET.</purpose>Take out the bone of the joint; make a deep incision between
the fillet and the flap; then fill it with 
<ingredient>stuffing</ingredient>made as follows: Two cupfuls of 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> half a cupful of chopped 
<ingredient>pork,</ingredient> half a <ingredient>lemon-peel</ingredient>
grated, a little <ingredient>sauce,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> <ingredient>summer savory,</ingredient> or any 
<ingredient>herbs</ingredient>to taste; or it may be filled with a 
<ingredient>veal stuffing</ingredient>(see page 167). Bind the 
<ingredient>veal</ingredient> into a round form, fasten it with 
<implement>skewers</implement> and twine, sprinkle over 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and cover it
with buttered paper. Be careful not to put the <ingredient>meat</ingredient>too
near the fire at first. Baste well and often. Just before it is done, remove
the paper, sprinkle over a little <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and rub over
it a little <ingredient>butter.</ingredient> This will give a frothy appearance
<pb n="147" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=153"/> to the surface of the 
<ingredient>meat.</ingredient> When done, put the pan of 
<ingredient>gravy</ingredient> on the fire; add a little 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> some <ingredient>boiling
water,</ingredient>and, when cooked, some <ingredient>lemon-juice.</ingredient>
Strain it, remove the grease, and pour it around the roast. Fry some pieces of 
<ingredient>ham</ingredient> cut in diamond shape; place these in a circle
around the roast, each piece alternated with a slice of 
<ingredient>lemon.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">A FRICANDEAU OF
VEAL.</purpose>What is called a 
<emph rend="italic">fricandeau</emph> of <ingredient>veal</ingredient> is
simply a cushion of <ingredient>veal</ingredient> trimmed into shape, larded,
and braised. Cut a thick slice (three or four pounds) from a <ingredient>fillet
of veal,</ingredient> trim it around as in cut for "blind hare" (see page 150),
and lard it on top. Put some pieces of <ingredient>pork</ingredient> into a 
<implement>braising-kettle,</implement> or saucepan, if you have no 
<implement>braising-kettle;</implement> also slices of 
<ingredient>carrot,</ingredient> an <ingredient>onion</ingredient> with 
<ingredient>cloves</ingredient> stuck in, a stick of 
<ingredient>celery,</ingredient> and some <ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> Put
in the <ingredient>meat,</ingredient> sprinkle over 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and cover it
with well-buttered paper. Now fill the pan with boiling 
<ingredient>stock,</ingredient> or <ingredient>water</ingredient> enough to
just cover the <ingredient>meat.</ingredient> Put on a tight lid. If it is a 
<implement>braising-pan,</implement> set it upon the fire, with live 
<ingredient>coals</ingredient> on top. If a common saucepan, cover it, and put
it into a hot oven.</p>
<p>It will take about two hours, or two hours and a half, to cook it. A
professional cook would boil down the <ingredient>stock</ingredient> in which
the 
<emph rend="italic">fricandeau</emph> was cooked until reduced to a glaze, then
with a brush would glaze all the top of the 
<ingredient>meat,</ingredient>placing it in the oven a moment to dry. However,
it tastes as well without this extra trouble.</p>
<p>The best <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> for a 
<emph rend="italic">fricandeau</emph> is 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce.</ingredient>It is often garnished with 
<ingredient>green pease,</ingredient> <ingredient>spinach,</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>sorrel;</ingredient> or a little <ingredient>wine (Madeira, port,
or sherry)</ingredient> and <ingredient rend="italic">roux</ingredient> (see
page 51) may be added to the <ingredient>braising-stock</ingredient> for a 
<ingredient>gravy.</ingredient>The <ingredient>gravy</ingredient> should be
strained, of course.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">VEAL CUTLETS,
BROILED.</purpose>The <ingredient>rib cutlets</ingredient> should always be
neatly trimmed, the bone scraped at the end, so that it will look smooth and
white. Broil them on a moderate fire, basting them occasionally with 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient> and turning them often. Dish them in a circle
with <ingredient>tomato-sauce.</ingredient></p>
</recipe><pb n="148" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=154"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">VEAL CUTLETS, SAUT&#233;D AND
FRIED.</purpose>These are <ingredient>cutlets cut from the
round,</ingredient>although any <ingredient>veal cutlets</ingredient> may be
cooked in the same way. Cut them into equal-sized pieces, beat them a little
with a knife to get them into shape; season, <ingredient>egg,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>bread-crumb</ingredient> them. Now, fry in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan,</implement> or rather 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> some thin slices of 
<ingredient>ham</ingredient> in a little hot <ingredient>lard,</ingredient> and
when done take them out on a hot dish; fry slowly the cutlets in the same 
<ingredient>fat,</ingredient> and when done pour out some of the 
<ingredient>fat,</ingredient> if there is more than a tea-spoonful; add a
little <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> then a little <ingredient>hot
water,</ingredient> and, when cooked a few moments, season it well with 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> adding <ingredient>pepper</ingredient>and
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> to taste; then strain it. Serve the cutlets in
the centre of a dish, with the <ingredient>gravy</ingredient> poured over; and
place alternate slices of the <ingredient>ham</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>lemon</ingredient> in a circle around them.</p>
<p><variation>They are also very good 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> in a little 
<ingredient>lard,</ingredient> and served with a <ingredient>cream
gravy</ingredient> poured over;</variation> <variation>or they are nice egged
(with a little chopped <ingredient>parsley</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient> mixed with the <ingredient>egg</ingredient>),
and bread-crumbed, and fried in hot 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient></variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">VEAL CUTLETS,
BRAISED.</purpose>Professional cooks usually braise <ingredient>veal
cutlets.</ingredient> They lard them (an easy matter) all on the same side, the
flavor of <ingredient>pork</ingredient> particularly well suiting 
<ingredient>veal.</ingredient> To proceed then: Mince some 
<ingredient>onions</ingredient> and <ingredient>carrots;</ingredient> put them
in the bottom of a <implement>stew-pan;</implement> put the cutlets on this
layer; cover well with <ingredient>stock</ingredient> (add 
<ingredient>wine</ingredient> if you choose), and let them cook until
thoroughly done.</p>
<p>If you wish to be particular, boil down the 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient>and glaze them; or make a 
<ingredient>gravy</ingredient> of the <ingredient>stock</ingredient> with 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> <ingredient rend="italic">roux,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient>and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and strain
it; or serve them with <ingredient>tomato-sauce;</ingredient> or make a little
round hill of <ingredient>mashed potatoes,</ingredient> and put the cutlets
around; or serve with them, instead, <ingredient>beans,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>pease,</ingredient> or flowerets of 
<ingredient>cauliflowers.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center"
placement="heading">MUTTON OR VEAL CHOPS (<emph rend="italic">en
papillote</emph>).</purpose>Trim the <ingredient>chops;</ingredient> broil them
in the usual way over the coals, and when done, place each one in a paper (well
buttered) cut in the form of Fig. 1; pour over each chop a 
<ingredient>sauce</ingredient> made as follows:<pb n="149"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=155"/>For three cutlets thicken a cupful of strong 
<ingredient>broth</ingredient>with equal quantities of either cold cooked 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> <ingredient>lamb,</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>veal,</ingredient><illustration><description>Two illustrations of a
veal chop. In the first illustration, the chop is placed on one half of an
oblong paper which has been folded down the center. In the second illustration,
the paper has been folded in half to completely cover the chop, then folded in
at the outer edges to seal the chop in.</description></illustration>and 
<ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient> (the <ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient> are
a great improvement to the dish, yet they may be omitted if more convenient)
with a quarter proportion of cold boiled <ingredient>ham</ingredient> added,
and also one or two springs of <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> all chopped
very fine. Pour this hot over the hot cutlets; place a 
<emph rend="italic">very thin</emph> slice of <ingredient>fat salt
pork</ingredient> over each <ingredient>cutlet;</ingredient><ref
target="n2">*</ref> fasten the paper as in Fig. 2, and place them in a hot oven
for about ten minutes. Serve 
<emph rend="italic">immediately</emph> while the chops are steaming hot.</p>
</recipe><ednote>The following note appears at the bottom of page 149 in the
original text.</ednote>
<p id="n2" size="smaller">*The addition of the slice of pork is quite
indispensable for veal chops 
<emph rend="italic">en papillote,</emph> but it is often omitted when the chops
are of mutton.</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>BLANQUETTE OF VEAL</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">French Cook</attribution>).</p>
<p>Cut any kind of <ingredient>veal</ingredient> (say two pounds) into pieces;
put it into <ingredient>boiling water,</ingredient> with a little bulb of 
<ingredient>garlic</ingredient> or slice of <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> and
when done throw the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> from the <ingredient>boiling
water</ingredient> into <ingredient>cold water,</ingredient> to whiten it. This
is the rule, but I usually dispense with it. Make a <ingredient>drawn butter
sauce,</ingredient> 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> put <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size
of an egg into a saucepan, and when it bubbles mix in a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> which cook a minute, without letting it color;
add then two cupfuls of <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>nutmeg.</ingredient> When the <ingredient>veal</ingredient> is
done, drain it from the <ingredient>water,</ingredient> and let it simmer
several minutes in the <ingredient>sauce,</ingredient> adding at the same time
a sprig of <ingredient>parsley</ingredient> chopped fine. When just ready to
serve, place the pieces of <ingredient>meat</ingredient> on a hot platter; stir
the <ingredient>yolks of three<pb n="150" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=156"/>
eggs</ingredient>into the <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> without allowing them
to boil; also several drops, or a seasoning, of 
<ingredient>lemon-juice.</ingredient> Pour the <ingredient>sauce</ingredient>
over the <ingredient>veal,</ingredient> and serve.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>BLIND HARE</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Charles Parsons</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: Three pounds of <ingredient>minced veal,</ingredient> three
pounds of <ingredient>minced beef,</ingredient> eight 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient> well beaten, three <ingredient>stale
rolls,</ingredient> or the same amount of 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> two grated <ingredient>nutmegs,</ingredient> a
heaping table-spoonful of ground 
<ingredient>cinnamon.</ingredient><illustration><description>An illustration of
blind hare served on a round platter and garnished with leafy
vegetables.</description></illustration>Mix all well together. From it into an
oval-shaped loaf, smooth it, and sprinkle <ingredient>bread or cracker
crumbs</ingredient> over the top. Bake it in a moderate oven about three hours.
It is to be sliced when cold.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>BEWITCHED VEAL</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Judge Embry</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: Three pounds of <ingredient>lean veal,</ingredient> half a
pound of <ingredient>fat salt pork,</ingredient> one 
<ingredient>nutmeg</ingredient> grated, one small 
<ingredient>onion,</ingredient> <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of an
egg, a little <ingredient>red pepper,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient></p>
<p>Chop all very fine, and mix them together, with three 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient> well beaten, and a tea-cupful of 
<ingredient>milk;</ingredient> form it into a small loaf, pressing it very
firmly; cover it with fine <ingredient>bread-crumbs;</ingredient> bake two
hours and a half. It is intended to be eaten cold, yet is very good hot. The
slices may be served in a circle around salad.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="soups">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">PLAIN VEAL STEW OR
POT-PIE.</purpose>Cut the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> from a 
<ingredient>knuckle of veal</ingredient> into pieces not too small; put them
into a pot with some small pieces of <ingredient>salt pork,</ingredient> and
plenty of <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt;</ingredient>pour over enough <ingredient>hot
water</ingredient> to cover it well, and let it boil until the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> is 
<emph rend="italic">thoroughly</emph> done; then, while the 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> is still boiling, drop in (by the spoonful) a
batter made with the following ingredients: Two 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient>well beaten, two and a half or three cupfuls of 
<ingredient>buttermilk,</ingredient> one even tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>soda,</ingredient> and <ingredient>flour</ingredient> enough to
make a thick batter. Cover the pot, and as soon as the batter is well cooked,
serve it. By standing, it becomes heavy.</p>
</recipe><pb n="151" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=157"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>TO COOK LIVER</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Melanie Lourant</attribution>), No. 1.</p>
<p>Put a little <ingredient>lard</ingredient> into a saucepan, and when hot
throw in half an <ingredient>onion</ingredient> minced fine, one or two sprigs
of <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> chopped, and the slices of 
<ingredient>calf's liver.</ingredient> Turn the 
<ingredient>liver</ingredient>several times, allowing it to cook well and
imbibe the taste of the <ingredient>onion</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> When cooked, place it at the side of the
fire. In another saucepan make a sauce as follows: Put in a piece of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> size of a large hickory-nut, and when it
bubbles sprinkle in a heaping tea-spoonful of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient>
stir it until it assumes a fine brown color, then pour in a cupful of 
<ingredient>boiling water,</ingredient> stirring it well with the 
<implement>egg-whisk;</implement> add <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>vinegar,</ingredient> and a heaping table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>capers.</ingredient> The <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> is very
nice without the <ingredient>capers,</ingredient> but very much improved with
them. Drain out the slices of <ingredient>liver,</ingredient> which put into
the <ingredient>sauce,</ingredient> and let them remain at the side of the fire
until ready to serve. Chopped <ingredient>pickle</ingredient> may be
substituted for the <ingredient>capers,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> may be used instead of the <ingredient>boiling
water.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO COOK LIVER (No.
2).</purpose>Fry in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph>pan</implement> some thin slices of 
<ingredient>breakfast bacon,</ingredient>and when done put them on a hot dish;
fry then thin slices of <ingredient>liver</ingredient> in the same 
<ingredient>fat,</ingredient> which have previously been thrown into 
<ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> for only a 
<emph rend="italic">moment,</emph> and then been sprinkled with 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient> When well done on both sides, serve them and
the <ingredient>bacon</ingredient> on the same dish, and garnish them with
slices of <ingredient>lemon.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CALF'S BRAINS.</purpose>Before
cooking, remove the fibrous membranes around them. Throw them into a pint of 
<ingredient>cold water,</ingredient> in which are mixed half a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> and one tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>vinegar;</ingredient> boil the three minutes, then plunge them into
<ingredient>cold water.</ingredient> When cold and about to be served, cut them
into scollops; and when seasoned with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> egged, and bread-crumbed, 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> them in a little hot 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> Serve with 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce.</ingredient> <variation>Or they may be served with 
<ingredient rend="italic">spighetti</ingredient> (a small 
<ingredient>macaroni</ingredient>) cooked with 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce</ingredient> (see page 210), and placed around them,
when they are called <purpose>brains 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la Milanaise.</emph></purpose></variation></p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="meatfishgame"><pb n="152"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=158"/><hd align="center">SWEET-BREADS.</hd>
<p>VEAL sweet-breads are best. They spoil very soon. The moment they come from
market, they should be put into cold water, to soak for about an hour; lard
them, or rather draw a lardoon of pork through the centre of each sweet-bread,
and put them into salted boiling water, or, better, stock, and let them boil
about twenty minutes, or until they are thoroughly done; throw them then into
cold water for only a few moments. They will now be firm and white. Remove
carefully the skin and little pipes, and put them in the coolest place until
ready to cook again. The simplest way to cook them is the best one, as
follows:</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">FRIED
SWEET-BREADS.</purpose>Parboil them as just explained. Just before serving, cut
them in even-sized pieces, sprinkle over <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> <ingredient>egg</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>bread-crumb</ingredient> them, and fry them in hot 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient> They are often immersed in boiling 
<ingredient>lard,</ingredient> yet oftener fried in the <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph>
pan.</implement>If<illustration><description>An illustration of fried
sweetbreads served in a ring around a mound of
peas.</description></illustration><emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d,</emph>
when done put them on a hot dish, turn out part of the 
<ingredient>lard</ingredient> from the <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan,</implement> leaving about half a
tea-spoonful; pour in a cupful of <ingredient>milk</ingredient> thickened with
a little <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> let it cook, stirring it constantly,
and season it with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt;</ingredient> strain, and pour over the 
<ingredient>sweet-breads.</ingredient> With <ingredient>green
pease,</ingredient> serve without sauce. This is the usual combination at
dinner or breakfast companies, the <ingredient>pease</ingredient> in the centre
of the dish, and the <ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> around (see cut
above). Or they are often served whole with 
<ingredient>cauliflower</ingredient> or <ingredient>asparagus
heads,</ingredient> when the <ingredient>cream-sauce</ingredient> is poured
over both; or they are also nice piled in the centre of a dish, with 
<ingredient>macaroni</ingredient> (cooked with <ingredient>cheese</ingredient>)
placed around them like a nest, and browned a little with a 
<implement>salamander</implement> (see cut on next page), or with a 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce</ingredient> in the centre of the dish, and the 
<ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> around, or with <ingredient>stuffed
tomatoes</ingredient> alternating with the 
<ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> on the<pb n="153" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=159"/>dish,
or with <ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient> in the centre, or served on a dish
made of boiled <ingredient>rice,</ingredient> called <ingredient>rice 
<emph rend="italic">casserole</emph></ingredient> (see page 205), or in little 
<ingredient>rice</ingredient> molds called <ingredient
rend="italic">cassolettes.</ingredient> To make the latter, boil the 
<ingredient>rice</ingredient> well, then work it to
a<illustration><description>An illustration of fried sweetbreads served on a
bed of macaroni.</description></illustration>a smooth paste with a spoon; fill
some little buttered <implement>patty-pans</implement> with the 
<ingredient>rice,</ingredient> and when it is quite cold take it out, brush
the<emph rend="italic">cassolettes</emph> with <ingredient>butter</ingredient>
on the outside, and color them a little in a hot oven; scoop out the inside,
leaving the rice crust a quarter of an inch thick. Fill the 
<emph rend="italic">cassolettes</emph> with the 
<ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> cut into pieces, and pour over each a
spoonful of <ingredient>cream dressing;</ingredient> or they may be 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> as described, and served with a 
<ingredient><emph
rend="italic">ma&#238;tre-d'h&#244;tel</emph>sauce</ingredient> poured
over.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SWEET-BREADS &#224; LA
MILANAISE.</purpose><ingredient>Sweet-breads</ingredient> fried as in preceding
receipt are placed in the centre of a hot platter. Small piped 
<ingredient>macaroni</ingredient> broken into two or three inch lengths is
cooked with <ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient> as in receipt (see page 210), and
neatly arranged in a circle around them.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>SWEET-BREADS LARDED AND
BRAISED</purpose>(<attribution rend="italic">English Lady</attribution>).</p>
<p>Trim all the skin and cartilage very carefully from two fine 
<ingredient>sweet-breads;</ingredient> lay them in <ingredient>cold
water</ingredient> for an hour, and lard them; lay some slices of 
<ingredient>bacon</ingredient> in the bottom of a 
<implement>braising-pan,</implement> or any pan with a good cover
(<attribution>Francatelli</attribution> would add also minced 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> <ingredient>carrots,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>celery,</ingredient> and <ingredient>parsley;</ingredient> however,
they are quite good enough without); then put in 
<ingredient>sweet-breads,</ingredient> with slices of 
<ingredient>bacon</ingredient> between the pan and the 
<ingredient>sweet-breads;</ingredient> pour over all some 
<ingredient>stock,</ingredient> just high enough not to touch the larding,
which must stand up free; let it simmer very gently for half or three-quarters
of an hour. Look at it occasionally to see that the 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> does not waste; add a little if it does. When
done, hold a <implement>salamander</implement> or a hot <implement>kitchen
shovel</implement> over the <ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> until they
are a pale-yellow color on top. Serve these with 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce</ingredient> poured in the centre of the dish. The
whole dish around look moist, the <ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> nearly
white, and the<pb n="154" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=160"/> larding transparent, standing up
distinct and firm, like glass, white at the bottom, and pale-yellow on top.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>BAKED SWEET-BREAD</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">New York Cooking-school</attribution>).</p>
<p>Put a pair of <ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> on the fire in one quart
of <ingredient>cold water,</ingredient> in which are mixed one tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> and one table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>vinegar.</ingredient> When the <ingredient>water</ingredient>boils,
take them off, and throw them into <ingredient>cold water,</ingredient>leaving
them until they get cold; now lard them with <ingredient>lardoons</ingredient>
about one-eighth of an inch square and two inches long. Chop rather fine
one-third of a medium-sized <ingredient>onion</ingredient> (one ounce), four or
five slices of <ingredient>carrot</ingredient> (one and a half ounces), half a
stalk of <ingredient>celery,</ingredient> and one sprig of 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> Put in the bottom of a 
<implement>baking-dish</implement> <ingredient>trimmings of
pork;</ingredient>on this place the <ingredient>sweet-breads,</ingredient> and
sprinkle the chopped vegetables over the top; bake them twenty minutes in a hot
oven. Cut a slice of <ingredient>bread</ingredient> into an oval or any fancy
shape, and fry it in a <implement><emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph>
pan</implement> in a little hot <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> coloring it
well; put this <ingredient rend="italic">cro&#251;ton</ingredient> in the
centre of a hot platter, on which place the 
<ingredient>sweet-breads.</ingredient> Serve <ingredient>pease</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce</ingredient>around.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SWEET-BREAD
FRITTERS.</purpose>Parboil the <ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> as before
explained, and cut them into slices about half an inch thick; then sprinkle
over them <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a
little grated <ingredient>nutmeg,</ingredient> some finely chopped 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and a few drops of 
<ingredient>lemon-juice;</ingredient> dip them each into <ingredient>French
fritter batter</ingredient> (see page 229); fry them a moment in boiling-hot 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient> Always test the 
<ingredient>lard</ingredient>before frying by putting in a piece of 
<ingredient>bread</ingredient> or a bit of the batter; if it turns yellow
readily, it is hot enough. Drain them well; pile them on a napkin neatly
arranged on a platter; garnish them with fried 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> <ingredient>parsley</ingredient> thrown into
the <ingredient>lard,</ingredient> and skimmed out almost immediately.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>SWEET-BREAD CROQUETTES</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">New York Cooking-school</attribution>).</p>
<p>After two pairs of <ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> are blanched
(boiled in <ingredient>salted water</ingredient> as described), cut them into
dice; cut also half a box (four ounces) of 
<ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient>into dice. Make a <ingredient
rend="italic">roux</ingredient> by putting one and a half ounces of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> into a saucepan, and when it bubbles sprinkle
in two ounces of <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> mix and cook it well;
<pb n="155" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=161"/> then pour in a gill of strong 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> or <ingredient>cream;</ingredient> when this is
also<illustration><description>Eight cylindrical croquettes served on a round
platter.</description></illustration>mixed, add the dice, which stir over the
fire until they are thoroughly heated; take them from the fire, add the beaten 
<ingredient>yolks of two eggs,</ingredient> which return to the fire a moment
to set, without allowing to boil. When cool, form into 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes;</emph> roll them first in 
<ingredient>cracker-crumbs,</ingredient> then in 
<ingredient>egg,</ingredient>then in <ingredient>cracker-crumbs</ingredient>
again, and fry them in boiling <ingredient>lard.</ingredient></p>
<p>The 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes</emph> may be cone-shaped, with a stick of 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> or <ingredient>celery</ingredient> pressed in
the top for a stem just before serving; or the sweet-bread 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes</emph> may be made in the same manner as
chicken<emph rend="italic">croquettes</emph> (French cook receipt),
substituting <ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> for the chickens. They may
be served alone, or with <ingredient>pease,</ingredient> or with 
<ingredient>tomato or Bechamel sauce,</ingredient> etc.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SKEWER OF
SWEET-BREADS.</purpose>Parboil the <ingredient>sweet-breads</ingredient> as
before described; cut them into slices or scollops about half an inch or more
thick; sprinkle<illustration><description>An illustration of skewered
sweetbreads served in a ring on a round
platter.</description></illustration>them with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient>and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>egg</ingredient> and <ingredient>bread-crumb</ingredient> them; now
run a little <implement>skewer</implement> (see page 56) through two of these
slices, alternating with two thin; square slices of 
<ingredient>bacon;</ingredient> fry in boiling <ingredient>lard;</ingredient>
serve a <ingredient>tomato or cream sauce</ingredient> in the centre, and
garnish with <ingredient>parsley.</ingredient> Serve one skewerful to each
person at table.</p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="meatfishgame"><hd
align="center">MUTTON.</hd>
<p>THE best roasts are the leg, the saddle, and the shoulder of mutton. They
are all roasted according to the regular rules for roasting. In England, mutton
is hung some time before<pb n="156" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=162"/> cooking. There must be
something in the air of England quite different from that of America in
reference to the hanging of meats and game; there, it is to be confessed, the
mutton, after having hung a certain length of time, certainly is more
delicious; here it would be unwholesome, simply not fit to eat. These joints of
which I speak are also good braised. Serve currant-jelly-sauce with the roast,
or garnish it with stuffed baked tomatoes.</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BOILED LEG OF
MUTTON.</purpose>This should be quite fresh. Put it into 
<ingredient>well-salted boiling water,</ingredient> which do not let stop
boiling until the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> is thoroughly done. The rule is
to boil it a quarter of an hour for each pound of 
<ingredient>meat.</ingredient> <ingredient>Caper-sauce</ingredient> should be
served with this dish, either in <implement>sauce-boat</implement> or poured
over the <ingredient>mutton;</ingredient> garnish with 
<ingredient>parsley.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MUTTON CUTLETS.</purpose>Trim
them well, scraping the bones; roll them in a little <ingredient>melted
butter</ingredient> or <ingredient>oil,</ingredient> season, and broil them; or
they are nice egged, bread-crumbed, and fried. They are especially nice when
broiled, served around a bed of <ingredient>mashed boiled
potatoes:</ingredient> the <ingredient>cutlets</ingredient> help to season the 
<ingredient>potatoes,</ingredient> which in turn
well<illustration><description>A ring of mutton chops served around a bed of
mashed potatoes on a round platter.</description></illustration>suit the 
<ingredient>meat.</ingredient> <ingredient>Tomato-sauce</ingredient> is also a
favorite companion to the cutlets. They may, however, be served with almost any
kind of vegetables, such as <ingredient>pease</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>string-beans,</ingredient> in the centre of the dish, and the
cutlets arranged in a circle around.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">RAGOUTS (<emph
rend="italic">made of pieces of Mutton, Veal, Beef, or
Rabbits</emph>).</purpose>Cut the upper parts, or the 
<ingredient>neck,</ingredient> from a <ingredient>fore-quarter of
mutton</ingredient> (or take inferior cuts from any part) into pieces for a
ragout; heat a heaping table-spoonful of <ingredient>drippings,</ingredient> or
<ingredient>lard,</ingredient> in a saucepan and when hot 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> in it the pieces of 
<ingredient>mutton</ingredient> (say two pounds) until they are almost done;
take them out, put in<pb n="157" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=163"/> a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> brown it, add at first a little cold or 
<ingredient>lukewarm water,</ingredient> mix it well, then add a quart of 
<ingredient>boiling water;</ingredient> now add also 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> <ingredient>Cayenne pepper,</ingredient> two 
<ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> the pieces of 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> <ingredient>meat,</ingredient> three
or four <ingredient>onions</ingredient> (not large), and six or seven peeled 
<ingredient>potatoes.</ingredient> Some prefer to boil the 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> a few minutes in other 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> first, as the <ingredient>water</ingredient> in
which <ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> are boiled is considered unwholesome;
cover the <implement>stew-pan</implement> well. When the vegetables are cooked,
take them and the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> out, skim off every particle of
fat from the <ingredient>gravy,</ingredient> taste to see if it is properly
seasoned, pour it over the ragout, and serve.</p>
<p>These ragouts can be made with the <ingredient>neck,</ingredient> or any
pieces of <ingredient>veal,</ingredient> in the same manner, or with pieces of 
<ingredient>beef,</ingredient> in which case 
<ingredient>carrots</ingredient>might be substituted for the potatoes. A ragout
of <ingredient>rabbits</ingredient> is most excellent made in the same way,
adding a glassful of <ingredient>red wine</ingredient> when it is almost
done.</p>
<p>In buying a fore quarter of <ingredient>mutton,</ingredient> there are
enough trimmings for a good ragout, with a shapely roast besides.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ANOTHER RAGOUT (<emph
rend="italic">of Pieces of Mutton, Veal, Beef, etc.</emph>).</purpose>Make rich
<ingredient>pie-paste</ingredient> about the size of an egg (for four persons);
roll it a quarter of an inch thick; cut it into diamonds, say an inch long and
half an inch broad. Bake them, and put them aside until five minutes before
serving the ragout. Take <ingredient>mutton,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>veal,</ingredient> <ingredient>beef,</ingredient> or almost any
kind of <ingredient>meat.</ingredient> Any cheap cut of 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> will make a good ragout, and choice cuts had
better to be cooked in other ways. In this instance, I will say cut two pounds
from the side of <ingredient>mutton.</ingredient> Put a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>lard</ingredient> or <ingredient>drippings</ingredient> into a
saucepan, and when hot 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> in it the pieces of 
<ingredient>mutton;</ingredient> when half done, place them in a kettle. Add a
heaping table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> to the 
<ingredient>drippings</ingredient> in the saucepan; stir it constantly several
minutes to brown, then add gradually a pint of <ingredient>hot
water;</ingredient> now pour this over the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> in the
kettle, adding three small <ingredient>onions,</ingredient> two sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> three <ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> and a
clove or bulb of <ingredient>garlic,</ingredient> if you have it; 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Cover it
closely, and let it simmer slowly for an hour, occasionally turning the kettle
to one side to skim off all the <ingredient>fat.</ingredient> Five minutes
before serving, add the diamonds of crust.</p><pb n="158" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=164"/>
<p>At the moment of serving, take out the <ingredient>meat,</ingredient> crust,
and three <ingredient>onions,</ingredient> and arrange them on a hot platter.
Pass the <ingredient>gravy</ingredient> through a sieve, and skim off every
remaining particle of fat; taste to see if it is properly seasoned with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and pour it
over the <ingredient>meat.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center">SHEEP'S TONGUES, WITH SPINACH.</purpose>Braise a
number of <ingredient>sheep's-tongues</ingredient> with <ingredient>salt
pork,</ingredient> <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>onion,</ingredient> some whole <ingredient>peppers,</ingredient> a
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> and enough 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> to cover them. Let them simmer one and a half
hours.<illustration><description>An illustration of sheep's tongues served in a
ring around a mold of spinach.</description></illustration>Serve with 
<ingredient>spinach</ingredient> in the centre of the dish, and seasoned with 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> a little of the <ingredient>tongue
stock,</ingredient> some <ingredient>Cayenne pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and <ingredient>butter.</ingredient> Serve the 
<ingredient>tongues</ingredient> around it, and diamonds or fancy cuts of 
<ingredient>fried bread</ingredient> (<ingredient
rend="italic">cro&#251;tons</ingredient>) around the outside circle.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SHEEP'S TONGUES &#224; LA
MAYONNAISE.</purpose>Boil half a dozen <ingredient>sheep's
tongues</ingredient>with one or two slices of <ingredient>bacon,</ingredient>
one <ingredient>carrot,</ingredient> one <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> two 
<ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> two or three sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> (some add two table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>sherry</ingredient> or <ingredient>port wine,</ingredient> but this
may be omitted), and enough <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> (or, better,
<ingredient>stock</ingredient>) to cover them. Let them simmer about one and a
half hours, replenishing the <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> or the 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> when necessary. When thoroughly done, skin and
trim them neatly; lay them between two plates, to flatten them. A professional
cook would glaze them with the <ingredient>stock</ingredient> boiled down in
which they were cooked; however, this is only for the sake of appearance.
Arrange them in a circle around a dish, with a <ingredient><emph
rend="italic">Mayonnaise</emph> sauce</ingredient> poured in the centre.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SHEEP'S TONGUES, WITH SAUCE
TARTARE.</purpose>Boil the <ingredient>tongues</ingredient> in 
<ingredient>salted water</ingredient> into which has been squeezed the 
<ingredient>juice of half a lemon</ingredient> (for six 
<ingredient>tongues</ingredient>). Serve with <ingredient rend="italic">sauce
Tartare</ingredient> (see page 128).</p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="meatfishgame"><pb n="159"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=165"/><hd align="center">LAMB.</hd>
<p>THE best roasts are the fore and hind quarters.</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ROAST LEG OF
LAMB.</purpose>Professional cooks serve a roast or baked <ingredient>hind
quarter of lamb</ingredient> rather rare, or well done on the outside and pink
within. It is really better, although it must be served steaming hot. Serve a 
<ingredient>caper, pickle, or mint sauce</ingredient> with it. If it is neatly
carved though the centre, it will present a good appearance served again the
next day, by stuffing the cut-out space with boiled <ingredient>mashed
potatoes,</ingredient> smoothing it evenly around, and placing it long enough
in the oven to become thoroughly hot.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ROAST FORE QUARTER OF
LAMB.</purpose>This may or may not be partly stuffed, a common <ingredient>veal
stuffing</ingredient> answering the purpose very well. It should be well
seasoned with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> thoroughly cooked, and often basted.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">LAMB CHOPS.</purpose>This is a
favorite dinner-company dish, generally arranged in a circle around 
<ingredient>green pease.</ingredient> They should be neatly trimmed, the bones
scraped, then rolled in a little <ingredient>melted butter,</ingredient> and
carefully broiled. When done, rub more <ingredient>butter</ingredient> over
them, and season them with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Slip little paper ruffles (see page 61) over the
ends of the bones. They may be served with a centre<illustration><description>A
round platter containing lamb chops served in a ring around a bed of
vegetables.</description></illustration>of almost any kind of vegetable, such
as a smooth hemisphere of <ingredient>mashed potatoes</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>spinach,</ingredient> or with <ingredient>beans,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>cauliflowers</ingredient> or <ingredient>stuffed baked
tomatoes,</ingredient> or with a <ingredient>tomato-sauce.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SADDLE OF LAMB OR
MUTTON.</purpose>This is considered a delicate roast. Roast it in the usual
manner. Serve <ingredient>caper, mint, or any of the sauces</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>vegetables</ingredient> that are used with other dishes of 
<ingredient>lamb</ingredient> or <ingredient>mutton.</ingredient></p>
</recipe><pb n="160" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=166"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">LAMB CROQUETTES</purpose>are
made the same as chicken 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes,</emph> only substituting <ingredient>cold
lamb</ingredient> for the chicken. Many prefer the 
<ingredient>lamb</ingredient> to the chicken 
<emph rend="italic">croquette,</emph> even for dinner or lunch parties.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SHEEP'S KIDNEYS.</purpose>The
best manner of cooking is to 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> them. They must be perfectly fresh
(they spoil soon), 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> on a quick fire, never allowed to boil
in the <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> (this would spoil the gravy), and served
with a little <ingredient>wine</ingredient> in the 
<ingredient>sauce.</ingredient></p>
<p>First cut them into slices; season, and 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> them in a little hot 
<ingredient>suet,</ingredient> <ingredient>clarified drippings,</ingredient> or
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> When done, put them on a hot plate. Now take a
second <implement>stew-pan,</implement> put in a piece of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of a large hickory-nut; when it is
hot, throw in a tea-spoonful of minced <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> two
sprigs of <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> minced also, and a tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> when they become red, pour in one and a half
cupfuls of <ingredient>hot water</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>stock.</ingredient> Let it simmer a few moments, then season with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and strain
it; now add a table-spoonful of <ingredient>sherry</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>port wine,</ingredient> and the pieces of 
<ingredient>kidney.</ingredient> Let the <ingredient>kidney</ingredient> remain
a few moments in the <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> without boiling, and serve.
Professional cooks generally add minced <ingredient>mushrooms;</ingredient> but
the dish is quite good enough without them.</p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">PORK.</hd>
<p>A LITTLE salted pork or bacon should always be kept in the house. I confess
to having a decided prejudice against this meat, considering it unwholesome and
dangerous, especially in cities, unless used in the smallest quantities. Yet
pork makes a delicious flavoring for cooking other meats, and thin, small
slices of breakfast bacon are a relishing garnish for beefsteak, veal, cutlets,
liver, etc. In the country, perhaps, there is less cause for doubt about it
use, where the animal is raised with corn, and where much outdoor life will
permit the taking of stronger food.</p><pb n="161" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=167"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO CURE BACON.</purpose>For
every three hundred pounds of <ingredient>pork</ingredient> use fourteen pounds
of <ingredient>common salt,</ingredient> and one pound each of 
<ingredient>brown sugar</ingredient> and <ingredient>saltpetre.</ingredient>Rub
them into the <ingredient>meat,</ingredient> and let it lie for three weeks,
rubbing and turning it occasionally. Then wipe dry, rub again with dry 
<ingredient>fine salt,</ingredient> wrap it in a thick cloth (canvas) or paper,
and hang it in a cool, dry place.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ROAST LITTLE PIG.</purpose>I 
<emph rend="italic">trust</emph> entirely to the following receipt. Any one who
fancies can cook a little <ingredient>pig,</ingredient> not I.</p>
<p>The <ingredient>pig</ingredient> should be three weeks old, well cleaned,
and stuffed with a dressing of this proportion: Two large 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> four times the quantity of 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> three tea-spoonfuls of chopped 
<ingredient>sage,</ingredient> two ounces of 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient>half a salt-spoonful of 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> one salt-spoonful of 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and one <ingredient>egg.</ingredient> Or it may
be filled with a <ingredient>veal force-meat stuffing,</ingredient> if
preferred; or, it may be stuffed with hot <ingredient>mashed
potatoes.</ingredient> Sew it together with a strong thread, trussing its fore
legs forward and its hind legs backward. Rub the 
<ingredient>pig</ingredient>with <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Roast it at first before a very slow fire, as it
should be thoroughly done; or, if it is baked, the oven should not be too hot
at first. Baste it very often. When done (in about three hours), place a 
<ingredient>cob</ingredient> or a <ingredient>potato</ingredient> in the mouth,
having put something in at first to keep it open. Serve it with 
<ingredient>apple-sauce</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ROAST PORK.</purpose>The
roasting pieces are the <ingredient>spare rib,</ingredient> the 
<ingredient>leg,</ingredient> the <ingredient>loin,</ingredient> the 
<ingredient>saddle,</ingredient> the <ingredient>fillet,</ingredient> and the 
<ingredient>shoulder.</ingredient> They may be stuffed with a common
well-seasoned <ingredient>sage stuffing.</ingredient> The skin, if left on,
should be cut in lines forming little squares; if the 
<ingredient>skin</ingredient> is taken off, sprinkle a little pounded 
<ingredient>sage</ingredient> over all, and put over it a buttered paper. Be
careful, in roasting <ingredient>pork,</ingredient> to put the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> far enough from the fire at first, as it must be
thoroughly done. The rule for the time of roasting 
<ingredient>pork</ingredient> is twenty minutes for each pound. Baste it at
first with <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> and afterward with its own 
<ingredient>drippings.</ingredient> A <ingredient>roast loin of
pork</ingredient> is very<pb n="162" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=168"/> nice (allowing it to
remain well sprinkled with <ingredient>salt</ingredient> an hour or two before
roasting) served with <ingredient>cabbage</ingredient> cooked with a little 
<ingredient>vinegar,</ingredient> or served with 
<ingredient>sauer-krout.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>BROILED PORK CUTLETS</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Dubois</attribution>).</p>
<p>Take a fresh <ingredient>neck of pork</ingredient> (free from fat); shorten
the bones of the ribs, and remove those of the chine; cut six cutlets off each 
<ingredient>neck,</ingredient> taking them a little obliquely; trim them,
season, and roll them in <ingredient>melted butter</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs.</ingredient> Broil them. Pour into a 
<implement>stew-pan</implement> four or five table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>vinegar,</ingredient> and double its volume of 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> or <ingredient>gravy,</ingredient> let it boil,
and thicken it with a little <ingredient>flour.</ingredient> Pass it through a
sieve, and add to it <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and some spoonfuls of
chopped <ingredient>pickles.</ingredient> Dish the cutlets in a circle, and
pour over them the <ingredient>sauce;</ingredient> or <ingredient>pork
cutlets</ingredient> may be fried or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> in a <implement>stew-pan,</implement>
in a little hot <ingredient>lard,</ingredient> and served with the same 
<ingredient>sauce.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame" class2="fruitvegbeans">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">PORK AND BEANS.</purpose>Soak a
quart of <ingredient>beans</ingredient> overnight. The next day boil them with
a sliced <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> one large 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient> to a quart of 
<ingredient>beans</ingredient>(they will not taste of the 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient>), and when they are almost done, put them into a
<implement>baking-dish,</implement> taking out the
<ingredient>onions.</ingredient> Almost bury in the centre of the 
<ingredient>beans</ingredient> a quarter of a pound of <ingredient>salt
pork;</ingredient> pour in some of the <ingredient>water</ingredient> in which
the <ingredient>beans</ingredient> were boiled, and bake about an hour.</p>
<p><variation>Another way is to omit the <ingredient>onions,</ingredient> and
after parboiling the <ingredient>beans</ingredient> put them into the 
<implement>bake-pan</implement> with one large spoonful of 
<ingredient>molasses</ingredient> and a quarter of a pound of 
<ingredient>pork,</ingredient> and bake them two hours.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="fruitvegbeans">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BOSTON BAKED BEANS.</purpose>Put
one and one-half pints of medium-sized <ingredient>navy beans</ingredient> into
a quart <implement>bean-pot;</implement> fill it with 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> and let it stand overnight. In the morning,
pour off the <ingredient>water,</ingredient> and cover the 
<ingredient>beans</ingredient> with fresh <ingredient>water</ingredient> in
which is mixed one table-spoonful of <ingredient>molasses.</ingredient> Put a
quarter of a pound of <ingredient>pickled pork</ingredient> in the centre,
leaving a quarter of an inch of <ingredient>pork</ingredient> above the 
<ingredient>beans.</ingredient> Bake them eight hours with a steady fire, and,
without stirring the <ingredient>beans,</ingredient> add a cupful of 
<ingredient>hot water</ingredient> every hour but the last two. Earthen
<pb n="163" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=169"/> pots with narrow mouths are made expressly for
baking <ingredient>beans.</ingredient> Cooking them in this manner, without
first boiling them, renders each <ingredient>bean</ingredient> perfectly whole
and at the same time thoroughly cooked. When done, place the 
<ingredient>pork</ingredient> in the centre of a platter, with the 
<ingredient>beans</ingredient> around it.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ENTR&#233;E OF APPLES AND
PORK.</purpose>Cut <ingredient>sour apples</ingredient> (
<ingredient>pippins</ingredient>) into slices without skinning them; fry or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> them with small strips of 
<ingredient>pork.</ingredient> Serve both, tastefully arranged, on the same
dish.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>SAUSAGES</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Warne</attribution>).</p>
<p>"Two pounds and a half of <ingredient>pork,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>fat</ingredient> and lean mixed (three times as much lean as 
<ingredient>fat</ingredient>), one ounce of <ingredient>fine
salt,</ingredient>a quarter of a pound of <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> two
tea-spoonfuls of powdered <ingredient>sage,</ingredient> a quarter of a
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>allspice,</ingredient> and a quarter of a
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>cloves.</ingredient> Chop the 
<ingredient>meat</ingredient> as fine as possible: there are machines for the
purpose. Mix the <ingredient>seasoning</ingredient> well through the whole;
pack the <ingredient>sausage-meat</ingredient> down hard in stone jars, which
should be kept in a cool place, well covered. When wanted for use, form them
into little cakes, dip them in beaten <ingredient>egg,</ingredient> then in 
<ingredient>wheat flour,</ingredient> and fry them in hot 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient>"</p>
<p>Always serve <ingredient>apple-sauce</ingredient> with pork sausages. Two
dishes never suited better. For breakfast, it would be well to have a centre of
<ingredient>apple-sauce</ingredient> on a platter, with 
<ingredient>sausages</ingredient> around, or 
<emph rend="italic">vice vers&#226;.</emph> They are a fine garnish for a
roast turkey.</p>
<p>It is said that sausages will keep forever, by frying them and putting them
in little jars, with a cover of hot lard.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>TO CURE HAMS</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Lestlie</attribution>).</p>
<p>For one hundred pounds of fine <ingredient>pork</ingredient> take seven
pounds of <ingredient>coarse salt,</ingredient> five pounds of 
<ingredient>brown sugar,</ingredient> two ounces of 
<ingredient>saltpetre,</ingredient> half an ounce of 
<ingredient>soda,</ingredient> and four gallons of 
<ingredient>water.</ingredient> Boil all together, and skim the 
<ingredient>pickle</ingredient> when cold. Pour it on the 
<ingredient>meat,</ingredient> which should first be rubbed all over with 
<ingredient>red pepper.</ingredient> Let <ingredient>ham</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>tongues</ingredient> remain in the 
<ingredient>pickle</ingredient>eight weeks. Before they are smoked, hang them
up, and dry them two or three days. Then sew the <ingredient>hams</ingredient>
in cases.</p>
</recipe><pb n="164" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=170"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO BOIL HAM.</purpose>If it is
quite salt, let it soak twenty-four hours. Cut off the end of the 
<ingredient>knuckle-bone;</ingredient> put it into a pot with <ingredient>cold
water</ingredient> at the back of the range to simmer slowly for eight hours;
then take it off the fire, and let it remain in the 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> until nearly cold; then peel off the skin
carefully, make spots at uniform distances with 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and wind fringed paper around the bone. Mrs.
Lestlie boils her <ingredient>hams</ingredient> with a bed of 
<ingredient>hay</ingredient> in the bottom of the pot. Some sprinkle 
<ingredient>grated bread or crackers</ingredient> over the 
<ingredient>ham</ingredient> when trimmed, and brown it in the oven; others
brush it thickly over with <ingredient>glaze.</ingredient> However well cooked,
it would be utterly ruined if it were not cut into thin, neat slices for
eating.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame" class2="eggscheesedairy">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">HAM AND EGGS.</purpose>The 
<ingredient>ham,</ingredient> cut into thin slices, can be broiled or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d.</emph> If broiled, spread over a little 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> when cooked. The 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient>can be fried; but they are more wholesome poached
in <ingredient>salted water.</ingredient> In both cases they should be
carefully cooked, neatly trimmed, and an <ingredient>egg</ingredient> served on
each slice of <ingredient>ham.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO FRY OR SAUT&#233;
HAM.</purpose>The <ingredient>ham</ingredient> should be cut into thin, neat
slices, and 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> only for a minute in a hot 
<implement><emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan.</implement> If it is
much more than thoroughly heated, it will become tough and dry.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">PORK FRIED IN BATTER, OR EGGED
AND BREAD-CRUMBED.</purpose>Roll very thin slices of breakfast 
<ingredient>bacon</ingredient> or <ingredient>fat pork</ingredient> in 
<ingredient>fritter batter,</ingredient> or <ingredient>egg</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>bread-crumb</ingredient> them, and fry them in boiling 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient> Serve on <ingredient>toast</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>fried mush</ingredient> as a dish by itself, or as a garnish for
beefsteak, fried chickens, breaded chops, etc.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center">MRS. TROWBRIDGE'S BREAKFAST-BACON
DISH.</purpose>Soak slices of <ingredient>bacon</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>pork</ingredient> in <ingredient>milk</ingredient> for fifteen
minutes; then dip them into <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and fry them in the
<implement><emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan.</implement> When done, 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> some slices of 
<ingredient>potato</ingredient> in the same hot 
<ingredient>fat,</ingredient>and serve them in the centre of a hot dish, with a
circle of the slices of <ingredient>pork</ingredient> around them.</p>
</recipe><pb n="165" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=171"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">RASHERS OF PORK (<emph
rend="italic">to serve with Beefsteak, Roast Beef, etc.</emph>).</purpose>
<ingredient>Breakfast bacon</ingredient> should be cut very thin (one-eighth of
an inch thick), and in strips three or four inches long. It should be fired in
the <implement><emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan</implement> only
long enough to become transparent, or thoroughly hot; if cooked crisp, it is
ruined. The French usually serve these strips of <ingredient>bacon</ingredient>
laid over beefsteak, roast beef, game, etc.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets" class2="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose><alt
synonym1="ham sandwiches">SANDWICHES</alt></purpose>(<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Geo. H. Williams</attribution>), No. 1.</p>
<p>Cut some fresh <ingredient>bread</ingredient> very thin, and of square equal
shapes. Chop some cold boiled <ingredient>ham</ingredient> very fine, and mix
wit it the <ingredient>yolks of one or two uncooked eggs,</ingredient> a little
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>mustard.</ingredient> Spread
some of this mixture over the buttered slices of 
<ingredient>bread;</ingredient> roll them, pinching each roll at the end to
keep it in shape.</p>
<p>If there is difficulty in cutting fresh <ingredient>bread,</ingredient> use
that which is a day old, then cut it in very thin slices, buttering it on the
loaf before it is cut; cut the slices into little even squares or diamonds (the
crust being all removed), spread with the chopped 
<ingredient>ham</ingredient>mixture before mentioned, and fit two squares
together.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets" class2="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose><alt
synonym1="ham sandwiches">SANDWICHES</alt></purpose>(<attribution
rend="italic">New York Cooking-school</attribution>), No. 2.</p>
<p>Chop fine half a pound of boiled <ingredient>ham,</ingredient> and season it
with one table-spoonful of <ingredient>olive-oil,</ingredient> one
table-spoonful of <ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> a little 
<ingredient>cayenne</ingredient> or <ingredient>mustard,</ingredient> and rub
it through a sieve. <ingredient>Butter</ingredient> the 
<ingredient>bread</ingredient> on the loaf before cutting it, and spread the 
<ingredient>ham</ingredient> between the slices.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="breadsweets" class2="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SMALL ROLLS, WITH SALAD
FILLING.</purpose>Cut off a little piece of the top of a <ingredient>French
roll,</ingredient> and remove carefully the crumb from the inside. Prepare a 
<ingredient>stuffing of cold chicken, tongue, and celery</ingredient> (cut in
dice), mixed in <ingredient><emph
rend="italic">Mayonnaise</emph>dressing,</ingredient> and fill the roll,
covering the top with the small piece cut off.</p>
<p>This makes a very nice lunch dish, or a lunch for traveling. <variation>The
rolls may be filled with cold cooked <ingredient>lobster,</ingredient> cut into
little dice, and covered with a <ingredient><emph
rend="italic">Mayonnaise</emph> dressing.</ingredient></variation></p>
</recipe></chapter><chapter class1="meatfishgame"><pb n="166"
id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=172"/><hd align="center">POULTRY.</hd>
<p>IF care is taken in picking and dressing fowls or birds, there is no need of
washing them. In France it is never done, unless there is absolutely something
to wash off; then it is done as delicately as possible. In expostulating once
with an old negro auntie for soaking all the blood and flavor out of a fowl,
she quickly replied, "Bless my soul, child! haven't I cooked chickens for fifty
years?"</p>
<p>When you buy a goose or a duck, be sure that it is young. Never buy an old
duck. The first I ever bought were from a penful at market. I thought myself
very clever in choosing the largest, all being price; not so clever at dinner,
when my husband tried to carve those tough and aged drakes.</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ROAST TURKEY.</purpose>The
secret in having a good roast <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> is to baste it
often, and to cook it long enough. A small <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> of
seven or eight pounds (the best selection if fat) should be roasted or baked
three hours at least. A very large <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> should not
be cooked a minute less than four hours; an extra hour is preferable to a
minute less. If properly basted, they will not become dry.</p>
<p>With much experience in hotel life, where 
<ingredient>turkeys</ingredient>are ruined by the wholesale, I have never seen
a piece of <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> that was fit to eat. Besides being
tasteless, they are almost invariably undercooked. First, then, after the 
<ingredient>turkey</ingredient> is dressed, season it well, sprinkling 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> on the
inside; stuff it, and tie it well in shape; either lard the top or lay slices
of <ingredient>bacon</ingredient> over it; wet the skin, and sprinkle it well
with <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient> It is well to allow a 
<ingredient>turkey</ingredient> to remain some time stuffed before cooking.
Pour a little <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> into the bottom of the 
<implement>dripping-pan.</implement> If it is to be roasted, do not put it too
near the coals at first, until it gets well heated through; then gradually draw
it nearer. The excellence of the <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> depends much
upon the frequency of basting it; occasionally baste it with a little 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient> oftener with its own 
<ingredient>drippings.</ingredient> Just before taking it from the fire or out
of the oven, put on more <ingredient>melted butter,</ingredient> and sprinkle
over more <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> this will make the skin more crisp
<pb n="167" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=173"/> and brown. While the 
<ingredient>turkey</ingredient> is cooking, boil the 
<ingredient>giblets</ingredient> well; chop them fine, and mash the 
<ingredient>liver.</ingredient> When the <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> is
done, put it on a hot platter. Put the <implement>baking-pan</implement> on the
fire, dredge in a little <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and when cooked stir
in a little <ingredient>boiling water</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>stock;</ingredient> strain it, skim off every particle of fat; add
the <ingredient>giblets;</ingredient> season with 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient>and <ingredient>pepper.</ingredient> If 
<ingredient>chestnut stuffing</ingredient> is used,
add<illustration><description>A whole roast turkey served on a round
platter.</description></illustration>some boiled 
<ingredient>chestnuts</ingredient> to the <ingredient>gravy;</ingredient> this
is decidedly the best <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> for a 
<ingredient>turkey.</ingredient> Besides the 
<ingredient>gravy,</ingredient>always serve <ingredient>cranberry (see receipt,
page 204), currant, or plum jelly</ingredient> with 
<ingredient>turkey.</ingredient> These are more attractive molded the day
before they are served. The <ingredient>currant or plum jelly</ingredient> is
melted and remolded in a pretty form. <ingredient>Roast turkeys</ingredient>
are often garnished with little <ingredient>sausage-balls.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p align="center"><purpose>STUFFING FOR BAKED TURKEY, CHICKEN, VEAL, AND
LAMB</purpose> (<attribution rend="italic">New York
Cooking-school</attribution>).</p>
<p>Soak half a pound of <ingredient>bread</ingredient> (with the crust cut off)
in tepid <ingredient>water,</ingredient> then squeeze it dry. Put three ounces
of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> into a <implement>stew-pan,</implement> and
when hot stir in a small <ingredient>onion</ingredient> minced (one and a half
ounces), which color slightly; then add the <ingredient>bread,</ingredient>with
three table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>parsley</ingredient> (half an ounce)
chopped fine, half a tea-spoonful of powdered <ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> a
little grated <ingredient>nutmeg,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient>
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a gill of 
<ingredient>stock.</ingredient>Stir it over the fire until it leaves the bottom
and sides; then mix in two <ingredient>eggs.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">STUFFING FOR ROAST TURKEYS,
CHICKENS, DUCKS, AND GEESE.</purpose>The commonest 
<ingredient>stuffing</ingredient> is this: Two 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient>five ounces of soaked and squeezed 
<ingredient>bread,</ingredient> eight <ingredient>sage leaves,</ingredient> an
ounce of <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> one <ingredient>egg,</ingredient> a little piece
of <ingredient>pork</ingredient> minced. Mince the 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> and fry them in the <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan</implement> before adding them
<pb n="168" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=174"/> to the other ingredients. Some chopped 
<ingredient>celery</ingredient> is always a good addition.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CHESNUT, POTATO, VEAL, AND
OYSTER STUFFINGS.</purpose>The <ingredient>chestnut stuffing</ingredient> is
made by adding <ingredient>chestnuts</ingredient> to the ordinary 
<ingredient>stuffing.</ingredient> They are put on the fire in a saucepan or 
<implement>spider</implement> to burst the skins; they are then boiled in very 
<ingredient>salted water</ingredient> or <ingredient>stock;</ingredient> some
are also put into the <ingredient>sauce.</ingredient> Or turkeys, etc., may be
stuffed with <ingredient>boiled, mashed, and seasoned
sweet-potatoes</ingredient> or <ingredient>Irish potatoes.</ingredient></p>
<p>The great cooks make extra trouble and expense in preparing a 
<ingredient>force-meat stuffing</ingredient> of <ingredient>cold
veal,</ingredient> <ingredient>cold ham,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>bacon,</ingredient> and a few 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> mixed and seasoned with 
<ingredient>cayenne,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> <ingredient>summer savory,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> or any <ingredient>sweet
herbs.</ingredient>Then they often add <ingredient>truffles</ingredient> cut
into little balls; or, an <ingredient>oyster stuffing</ingredient> is made by
merely adding plenty of whole <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> (not chopped) to
the ordinary <ingredient>turkey bread stuffing.</ingredient> It should be well
seasoned, or the <ingredient>oysters</ingredient> will taste insipid.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BOILED TURKEY.</purpose>If a
boiled <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> is not well managed, it will be quite
tasteless. Choose a <ingredient>hen turkey.</ingredient> If not well trussed
and tied, the legs and wings of a boiled fowl will be found pointing to all the
directions of the compass. Cut the legs at the first joint and draw them into
the body. Fasten the small ends of the wings under the back, and tie them
securely with strong twine. Sprinkle over plenty of 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> and put it into 
<emph rend="italic">boiling</emph> <ingredient>water.</ingredient> Boil it
slowly two hours, or until quite tender. It is generally served in a bed of 
<ingredient>rice,</ingredient> with <ingredient>oyster, caper, cauliflower,
parsley, or 
<emph rend="italic">Hollandaise</emph> sauce.</ingredient> Pour part of the 
<ingredient>sauce</ingredient> over the <ingredient>turkey.</ingredient>Reserve
the giblets for giblet soup. It can be stuffed or not, the same as for
roasting.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TURKEY OR CHICKEN
HASH</purpose>is made like beef hash, only substituting 
<ingredient>turkey</ingredient> or <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> for
beef.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TURKEY BRAISED.</purpose>If you
have an <ingredient>old turkey</ingredient> unfit for roasting or boiling,
braise<pb n="169" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=175"/> it for four or five hours, adding a little
<ingredient>wine</ingredient> (toward the last) to the 
<ingredient>stock,</ingredient> if you choose.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TURKEY GALANTINE, OR BONED
TURKEY.</purpose>Choose a <ingredient>fat hen turkey.</ingredient> When
dressing it, leave the crop skin (the skin over the breast) whole; cut off the
legs, wings, and neck. Now slit the skin at the back, and carefully remove it
all around. Cut out the <ingredient>breasts</ingredient> carefully; cut them
into little elongated pieces, about a quarter of an inch square and an inch
long (parallelograms); or cut them any way you like. Season them with 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a little 
<ingredient>nutmeg,</ingredient> <ingredient>mace,</ingredient> pounded 
<ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> <ingredient>sweet basil,</ingredient> and a
little chopped <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> all mixed. Now make a 
<ingredient>force-meat,</ingredient><illustration><description>A long
cylindrical package tied with string at each end and at two places in the
middle.</description></illustration>with a pound and a quarter of 
<ingredient>lean veal</ingredient> or fresh <ingredient>pork,</ingredient> well
freed from skin and gristle. Mix this with the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> of
the <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> (all but the 
<ingredient>breasts</ingredient>); chop it well. Then chop an equal volume of
fresh <ingredient>bacon,</ingredient> which mix with the other chopped 
<ingredient>meat:</ingredient> season this with the condiments last mentioned.
Now pound it in a <implement>mortar</implement> to a paste. Cut one pound of 
<ingredient>truffles,</ingredient> half a pound of cooked pickled 
<ingredient>tongue,</ingredient> and half a pound of cooked <ingredient>fat
bacon,</ingredient> into three-quarter-inch dice. Season these also.</p>
<p>Spread the <ingredient>turkey skin</ingredient> on a board. Make alternate
layers on it, first of half of the <ingredient>force-meat,</ingredient> then
half of the <ingredient>turkey breasts,</ingredient> then half of the dice of 
<ingredient>tongue,</ingredient> <ingredient>truffles,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>bacon,</ingredient> then <ingredient>turkey fillets</ingredient>and
dice again: save some of the <ingredient>force-meat</ingredient> to put on the
last layer. Now begin at one side and roll it over, giving it a round and long
shape; sew up the <ingredient>skin;</ingredient> wrap it, pressing it closely
in a napkin; tie it at the extremities, and also tie it across in two places,
to keep it in an oval shape with round ends.</p>
<p>Boil the galantine gently for four hours in <ingredient>boiling
water</ingredient> (or, better, in <ingredient>stock</ingredient>), with the 
<ingredient>bones</ingredient> of the <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> thrown
in. At the end of that time, take the <implement>stew-pan</implement> off the
fire. Let the galantine cool in the liquor one hour; then drain it, and put it
on a dish with a seven-pound weight on it.</p><pb n="170" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=176"/>
<p>When cold, take the galantine out of the napkin; put it at the end of an
open oven for some minutes to melt the <ingredient>fat,</ingredient> which wipe
off with a cloth; glaze it, or sprinkle it with a little 
<ingredient>egg</ingredient> and fine <ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient>and
bake it a few minutes. It is, of course, to be sliced when eaten. It is
generally served placed on a wooden standard, as described for a 
<emph rend="italic">Mayonnaise</emph> of salmon.</p>
<p>A boned <ingredient>turkey,</ingredient> or galantine, is seen at almost all
large parties. It is convenient to have one in the house, as it will keep for a
long time, and is very nice for lunch or tea. It costs ten dollars to buy one,
and about half of the amount to make it. Of course, it is some trouble to make;
yet if one's time is worth less than one's money, there is plenty of time for
the purpose, as it can be made three or four days before an entertainment. 
<variation><purpose>Chicken and game galantines</purpose> are made in the same
way.</variation> The figure on page 169 is a boned 
<ingredient>turkey</ingredient> or chicken prepared for boiling.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">MIXED SPICES FOR
SEASONING.</purpose>In cities, mixed spices can be purchased, which are
prepared by professional cooks, and which save much trouble to inexperienced
compounders. This is one of their receipts: "Take of 
<ingredient>nutmegs</ingredient> and <ingredient>mace,</ingredient> one ounce
each; of <ingredient>cloves</ingredient> and <ingredient>white
pepper-corns,</ingredient> two ounces each; of <ingredient>sweet
basil,</ingredient> <ingredient>marjoram,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>thyme,</ingredient> one ounce each, and half an ounce of 
<ingredient>bay leaves:</ingredient> these <ingredient>herbs</ingredient>should
be previously dried for the purpose. Roughly pound the 
<ingredient>spices,</ingredient> then place the whole of the above ingredients
between two sheets of white paper, and after the sides have been folded over
tightly, to prevent the evaporation of the volatile properties of the 
<ingredient>herbs</ingredient> and <ingredient>spices,</ingredient> place them
in a warm place to become perfectly dry. They must then be pounded quickly put
though a sieve, corked up tightly in bottles, and kept for use.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">A SIMPLE WAY OF PREPARING BONED
TURKEY OR CHICKEN.</purpose>Boil a <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> in as little <ingredient>water</ingredient> as
possible, until the bones can easily be separated from the 
<ingredient>meat.</ingredient> Remove all of the skin; slice and mix together
the light and dark parts;<pb n="171" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=177"/>season with 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Boil down
the liquid in which the <ingredient>turkey</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> was boiled; then pour it on the 
<ingredient>meat.</ingredient> Shape it like a loaf of bread; wrap it tightly
in a cloth; press it with a heavy weight for a few hours. When served, it is
cut into thin slices.</p>
</recipe><section class1="meatfishgame"><hd align="center">CHICKENS.</hd>
<p>One is absolutely bewildered at the hundred dishes which are made of
chickens. Most of the 
<emph rend="italic">entr&#233;es</emph> are prepared with the breasts alone,
called fillets. There are 
<emph rend="italic">boudins</emph> and 
<emph rend="italic">quenelles</emph> of fowls, and fillets of fowls 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la Toulouse, &#224; la mar&#233;chale,</emph>
etc., etc., and supreme of fillets of fowls 
<emph rend="italic"> &#224; I&#233;carlate,</emph> etc., and aspics of
fowls; then, chickens 
<emph rend="italic">&#224; la Marengo, &#224; la Lyonnaise, &#224; la
reine;</emph> then, 
<emph rend="italic">marinades</emph> and 
<emph rend="italic">capitolades</emph> of chickens, and fricassees of chickens
of scores of names. I would explain some of these long-sounding terms if this
book were not already too long, and if at last they were any better than when
cooked in the more simple ways.</p>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SPRING CHICKENS.</purpose>The
excellence of <ingredient>spring chickens</ingredient> depends as much on
feeding as on cooking them. If there are conveniences for building a coop, say
five feet square, on the ground, where some spring 
<ingredient>chickens</ingredient> can be kept for a few weeks, feeding them
with the scraps from the kitchen, and grain, they will be found plump, the meat
white, and the flavor quite different from the thin, poorly fed 
<ingredient>chickens</ingredient> just from market.</p>
<p>The Southern negro cooks have certainly the best way of cooking spring 
<ingredient>chickens,</ingredient> and the manner is very simple. Cut them into
pieces, dip each piece hastily in <ingredient>water,</ingredient> then sprinkle
it with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and
roll it in plenty of <ingredient>flour.</ingredient> Have some 
<ingredient>lard</ingredient> in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan</implement> very hot, in which fry, or
rather 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;,</emph> the 
<ingredient>chickens,</ingredient>covering them well, and watching that they
may not burn. When done, arrange them on a hot dish; pour out the 
<ingredient>lard</ingredient> from the <implement>spider,</implement> if there
is more than a tea-spoonful; throw in a cupful or more of 
<ingredient>milk,</ingredient> or, better, <ingredient>cream</ingredient>
thickened with a little <ingredient>flour;</ingredient> stir it constantly,
seasoning it with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt;</ingredient> pour it over the 
<ingredient>chickens.</ingredient> It makes a pleasant change to add chopped 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> to the <ingredient>gravy.</ingredient></p>
<pb n="172" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=178"/>
<p>A nice dish is made by serving <ingredient>cauliflower</ingredient> in the
same platter with the dressing poured over both; or with 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> cut out in little balls, and boiled in very 
<ingredient>salt water,</ingredient> served in the same way; or they may be
surrounded with <ingredient>water-cresses.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">SPRING CHICKENS,
BAKED.</purpose>Cut them open at the back, spread them out in a 
<implement>baking-pan,</implement> sprinkle on plenty of 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient> Baste them well with <ingredient>hot
water,</ingredient> which should be in the bottom of the pan, also at different
times with a little <ingredient>butter.</ingredient> When done, rub 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> over them, as you would beefsteak, and set them
in the oven for a moment before serving.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ROAST AND BOILED
CHICKENS.</purpose><ingredient>Chickens</ingredient> are roasted and boiled as
are turkeys. In winter there is no better way of cooking 
<ingredient>chickens</ingredient> than to boil them whole, and pour over them a
good <ingredient>caper or pickle sauce</ingredient> just before serving. A
large tough <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> is very good managed in this
manner. Of course, the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> should be put
into<illustration><description>A round platter containing a whole chicken
served on a bed of rice.</description></illustration><emph
rend="italic">boiling</emph> <ingredient>water,</ingredient> which should not
stop boiling until the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> is entirely done. With
this management it will retain its flavor, yet the 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> in which it is boiled should always be saved for
soup. It is a valuable addition to any kind of soup. The cut represents a 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> in a bed of <ingredient>rice.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">BAKED CHICKENS OR FISH (<emph
rend="italic">for Camping Parties</emph>).</purpose>Dress the 
<ingredient>chickens</ingredient> or <ingredient>fish,</ingredient> making as
small incisions as possible, and without removing the skin, feathers, or
scales. Fill them with the usual <ingredient>bread stuffing,</ingredient> well
seasoned with chopped <ingredient>pork,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>onion,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Sew the cut quite firmly. Cover
<pb n="173" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=179"/> the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>fish</ingredient> entirely with wet clay, spreading it half an inch
to an inch thick. Bury it in a bed of hot ashes, with coals on top, and let it
bake about an hour and a quarter if it weighs two pounds. The skin, feathers,
or scales will peel off when removing the cake of clay, leaving the object
quite clean, and especially delicious with that "best of sauces, a good
appetite;" however, there is no reason why a camping party should not indulge
in other sauces at the same time.</p>
<p><variation>A <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> may be surrounded in the same
way with a <ingredient>paste of flour</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> and baked in the oven.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">A FRICASSEE OF
CHICKEN.</purpose>Cut two <ingredient>chickens</ingredient> into pieces.
Reserve all the <ingredient>white meat</ingredient> and the best pieces for the
fricassee. The trimmings and the inferior pieces use to make the 
<ingredient>gravy.</ingredient> Put these pieces into a porcelain kettle, with
a quart of <ingredient>cold water,</ingredient> one 
<ingredient>clove,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> a small <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> a little
bunch of <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and a small piece of 
<ingredient>pork;</ingredient> let it simmer for half an hour, and then put in
the pieces for the fricassee; let them boil slowly until they
are<illustration><description>A fricassee of chicken served on a round
platter.</description></illustration>quite done; take them out then, and keep
them in a hot place. Now strain the <ingredient>gravy,</ingredient> take off
all the fat, and add it to a <ingredient rend="italic">roux</ingredient> of
half a cupful of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> and a small piece of 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> Let this boil; take it off the stove and stir
in three <ingredient>yolks of eggs</ingredient> mixed with two or three
table-spoonfuls of <ingredient>cream;</ingredient> also the <ingredient>juice
of half a lemon.</ingredient> Do not let it boil after the 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient> are in, or they will curdle. Stir it well,
keeping it hot a moment; then pour it over the 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> and serve. Some of the fricassees with long
and formidable names are not much more than <ingredient>wine</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>mushrooms,</ingredient> or both, added to this receipt.</p>
</recipe><pb n="174" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=180"/>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Gratz Brown</attribution>).</p>
<p><emph rend="italic">Saut&#233;</emph> a 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient>(cut into pieces) with a little minced 
<ingredient>onion,</ingredient> in hot <ingredient>lard.</ingredient> When the
pieces are brown, add a table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and
let it cook a minute, stirring it constantly. Add then one and a half of 
<ingredient>boiling water</ingredient>or <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> a
table-spoonful of <ingredient>vinegar,</ingredient> a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>sherry,</ingredient> a tea-spoonful of <ingredient>Worcestershire
sauce,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>pepper.</ingredient> When it is taken off the fire, strain the 
<ingredient>sauce,</ingredient> taking off any particles of fat; mix in the 
<ingredient>yolk of an egg.</ingredient> Pour it over the 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> and serve.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">RANAQUE CHICKENS.</purpose>After
the first experience in making this <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> dish, it
is not difficult to prepare, and it makes an exceedingly nice course for
dinner. With a sharp <implement>penknife,</implement> silt the 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> down the back; then, keeping the knife close
to the bones, scrape down the sides, and the bones will come out. Break them at
the joints when coming to the drumsticks and wing-bones. These bones are left
in. Now chop fine, cold cooked <ingredient>lamb</ingredient> enough to stuff
the <ingredient>chicken;</ingredient> season it with 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> one even
tea-spoonful<illustration><description>An illustration of ranaque chicken
served on a round platter.</description></illustration>of <ingredient>summer
savory,</ingredient> two heaping table-spoonfuls of chopped 
<ingredient>pork,</ingredient> and 
<emph rend="italic">plenty</emph> of <ingredient>lemon-juice,</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>juice of one lemon.</ingredient> Stuff the 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> and sew it, giving it a good shape; turn the
ends of the wings under the back, and tie them there firmly, also the legs of
the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> down close to the back, so that the top
may present a plump surface, to carve in slices across, without having bones in
the way. Now lard the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> two or three rows on
top. If you have no <implement>larding-needle,</implement> cut open the skin
with the <implement>penknife,</implement> and insert the little pieces of 
<ingredient>pork,</ingredient> all of<pb n="175" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=181"/> equal
length and size. Bake this until it is thoroughly done, basting it very often
(once or twice with a little <ingredient>butter</ingredient>). Pour a 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce</ingredient> (see page 125) around it in the bottom of
the dish in which it is served.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CHICKEN BREASTS.</purpose>Trim
the <ingredient>breasts of some chickens</ingredient> to resemble trimmed lamb
chops. Stick a <ingredient>leg bone</ingredient> (the joints cut off at each
end) into the end of each cutlet; <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> them, roll them in 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> and fry them in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan</implement> with 
<ingredient>butter.</ingredient> Serve them in a circle in a dish with 
<ingredient>pease,</ingredient> <ingredient>mashed potatoes,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>cauliflowers,</ingredient> <ingredient>beans,</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>tomatoes,</ingredient> or almost any kind of vegetable, in the
centre. They are still nicer larded on one side, choosing the same side for all
of them. When larded, they should not be rolled in 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient> This is a very nice course for a dinner
company. These fillets are also nice served in a circle, with the same 
<ingredient>sauce</ingredient> poured in the centre as is served with deviled
chicken.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame" occasion="winter">
<p align="center"><purpose>DEVILED CHICKEN, WITH SAUCE</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Cunard Steamer</attribution>).</p>
<p>The <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> is boiled tender in a little 
<ingredient>salted water.</ingredient> When cold, it is cut into pieces; these
pieces are basted with <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> and broiled.</p>
<p><ingredient rend="italic">Sauce.</ingredient>--One tea-spoonful of 
<ingredient>made mustard,</ingredient> two table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>Worcestershire sauce,</ingredient> three table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>vinegar;</ingredient> boil all together, and pour over the 
<ingredient>chicken.</ingredient> This dish is generally served on the Cunard
steamers for supper. <variation>Or, boil the 
<ingredient>chickens,</ingredient>cut them into pieces, 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt</ingredient> them, roll
them in <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> them in a little hot 
<ingredient>lard,</ingredient> and serve 
<ingredient>cream-sauce,</ingredient>the same as for fried spring chickens.
This makes a good winter breakfast.</variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>CHICKEN CROQUETTES</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">French Cook</attribution>).</p>
<p>Boil one <ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> with an 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient> and a clove of 
<ingredient>garlic</ingredient>(if you have it) thrown into the 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> add some <ingredient>bones</ingredient> and
pieces of <ingredient>beef</ingredient>also; this will make a 
<ingredient>stock,</ingredient> if you have not some already saved. Cut the 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> when cooked, into small dice; mince half of a
large <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> or one small one, and two sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> together. Put into a saucepan a piece of 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of<pb n="176" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=182"/> a
small egg; when hot, put in the minced <ingredient>onion</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>parsley</ingredient> and half a cupful of 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> stir well until it is well
cooked<illustration><description>A ring of chicken croquettes served on a round
platter.</description></illustration>and of a light-brown color; then add a
cupful and a half of <ingredient>stock,</ingredient> or of the 
<ingredient>stock</ingredient> in the kettle, boiled down or reduced until it
is quite strong, then freed of fat; the stronger the 
<ingredient>stock,</ingredient> the better of course. Stir it into a smooth
paste, add <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> not
quite half of a grated <ingredient>nutmeg,</ingredient> the <ingredient>juice
of about a quarter of a lemon,</ingredient> and two table-spoonfuls of 
<ingredient>sherry,</ingredient> <ingredient>Madeira,</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>port wine.</ingredient> When all is well stirred, mix in the pieces
of <ingredient>chicken.</ingredient> Mold into the ordinary 
<emph rend="italic">croquette</emph> shape, or into the form of pears. When
they are egged and cracker-crumbed, fry them in boiling hot 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient> If they are molded into pear shape, a little
stem of <ingredient>parsley</ingredient> may be stuck into each pear after it
is cooked to represent the pear stem.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>CHICKEN CROQUETTES</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Chauncey I. Filley</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: Two <ingredient>chickens</ingredient> and two sets of 
<ingredient>brains,</ingredient> both boiled; one tea-cupful of 
<ingredient>suet,</ingredient> chopped fine; two sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> chopped; one 
<ingredient>nutmeg,</ingredient>grated; an even table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>onion,</ingredient> after it is chopped as fine as possible; the 
<ingredient>juice and grated rind of one lemon;</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt</ingredient> and <ingredient>black and red
pepper,</ingredient> to taste. Chop the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> very
fine; mix all well together; add <ingredient>cream</ingredient> until it is
quite moist, or just right for molding. This quantity will make two dozen 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes.</emph> Now mold them as in cut (see above); dip
them into beaten <ingredient>egg,</ingredient> and roll them in pounded 
<ingredient>cracker or bread-crumbs;</ingredient> fry in boiling-hot 
<ingredient>lard.</ingredient> <ingredient>Cold meat</ingredient> of any kind
can be made into 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes</emph> following this receipt, only substituting
an equal amount of <ingredient>meat</ingredient> for the 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> and of boiled 
<ingredient>rice</ingredient>for the <ingredient>brains.</ingredient> 
<ingredient>Cold lamb</ingredient> or <ingredient>veal</ingredient> is
especially good in 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes.</emph> <ingredient>Cold beef</ingredient> is
very good also. Many prefer two cupfuls of boiled 
<ingredient>rice</ingredient>(fresh boiled and still hot when mixed with the 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient>) for the chicken 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes,</emph> instead of 
<ingredient>brains.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CHICKEN CUTLETS.</purpose>These
cutlets are only <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> 
<emph rend="italic">croquettes</emph> in a different form.
<pb n="177" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=183"/> Prepare them like trimmed lamb chops, in the
following manner: Make a shape pointed at one end and round at the other; then
press it with the blade of a knife, giving it the shape of a cutlet. 
<ingredient>Egg</ingredient> and <ingredient>bread-crumb</ingredient> these
cutlets, and fry them in boiling <ingredient>lard;</ingredient> then stick in a
paper ruffle at the pointed end. Serve them, one 
<ingredient>cutlet</ingredient> overlapping the other, in a circle, with a 
<ingredient>tomato-sauce</ingredient> in the centre of it, or around a pile of 
<ingredient>mushrooms</ingredient> or of <ingredient>pease.</ingredient> This
is considered a very palatable dish for a dinner company.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>CHICKEN, WITH MACARONI OR WITH
RICE</purpose>(<attribution rend="italic">French Cook</attribution>).</p>
<p>Cut the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> into pieces; fry or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> them in a little hot 
<ingredient>drippings,</ingredient> or in <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the
size of an egg; when nearly done, put the pieces into another saucepan; add a
heaping tea-spoonful of <ingredient>flour</ingredient> to the hot 
<ingredient>drippings,</ingredient> and brown it. Mix a little cold or 
<ingredient>lukewarm water</ingredient> to the <ingredient
rend="italic">roux;</ingredient> when smooth, add a pint or more of 
<ingredient>boiling water;</ingredient> pour this over the 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> in the saucepan, add a chopped sprig of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> a clove of <ingredient>garlic,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Let the 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> boil half or three-quarters of an hour, or
until it is thoroughly done; then take out the pieces of 
<ingredient>chicken.</ingredient> Pass the 
<ingredient>sauce</ingredient>through a sieve, and remove all the 
<ingredient>fat.</ingredient> Have ready some <ingredient>macaroni</ingredient>
which has been boiled in <ingredient>salted water,</ingredient> and let it boil
in this <ingredient>sauce.</ingredient> Arrange the pieces of 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> tastefully on a dish; pour the 
<ingredient>macaroni</ingredient> and <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> over them,
and serve; or, instead of <ingredient>macaroni,</ingredient> use boiled 
<ingredient>rice,</ingredient> which may be managed in the same way as the 
<ingredient>macaroni.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame" ethnicgroup="indian">
<p align="center"><purpose>CHETNEY OF CHICKEN</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. E. L. Youmans</attribution>).</p>
<p>Ingredients: One large or two small 
<ingredient>chickens,</ingredient>one-quart can of 
<ingredient>tomatoes,</ingredient> <ingredient>butter</ingredient> the size of
a pigeon's egg, one table-spoonful of <ingredient>flour,</ingredient> one
heaping tea-spoonful of minced <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> one tea-spoonful
of minced <ingredient>pork,</ingredient> one small bottle of 
<ingredient>chetney</ingredient> (one gill).</p>
<p>Press the <ingredient>tomatoes</ingredient> through a sieve. Put the 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> (one and a half ounces) into a 
<implement>stew-pan,</implement> and when hot throw in the minced 
<ingredient>onions;</ingredient> cook them a few minutes, then add the 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> which cook thoroughly; now pour in the 
<ingredient>tomato pulp,</ingredient> seasoned with 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and the minced 
<ingredient>pork,</ingredient> and stir it thoroughly with an 
<implement>egg-whisk</implement> until quite smooth, and then mix well into
<pb n="178" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=184"/> it the chetney, and next the cooked 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> cut into pieces. The 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> may be 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;d</emph> (if young) in a little hot 
<ingredient>fat,</ingredient> or it may be roasted or boiled as for a
fricassee. The <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> is neatly arranged on a hot
platter, with the <ingredient>sauce</ingredient> poured over. <variation>Slices
of <purpose><alt synonym1="chetney of beef">beef</alt></purpose> (the fillet
preferable) may be served in the same way with the <ingredient>chetney
sauce.</ingredient></variation></p>
<p>This chetney is an Indian sauce, and can be procured at the first-class
groceries.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>CURRY OF CHICKEN</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Youmans</attribution>).</p>
<p>Cut the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> into pieces, leaving out the body
bones; season them with <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt;</ingredient> fry them in a <implement><emph
rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> pan</implement> in 
<ingredient>butter;</ingredient> cut an <ingredient>onion</ingredient> into
small slices, which fry in the <ingredient>butter</ingredient> until quite red;
now add a tea-cupful of <ingredient>stock</ingredient> freed from fat, an even
tea-spoonful of <ingredient>sugar,</ingredient> and a table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>curry-powder,</ingredient> mixed with a little 
<ingredient>flour;</ingredient> rub the 
<ingredient>curry-powder</ingredient>and <ingredient>flour</ingredient> smooth
with a little <ingredient>stock</ingredient> before adding it to the saucepan;
put in the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> pieces, and let them boil two or
three minutes; add then the <ingredient>juice of half a lemon.</ingredient>
Serve this in the centre of a bed of boiled <ingredient>rice.</ingredient></p>
<p><variation><purpose><alt
synonym1="curry of veal, curry of lamb, curry of rabbits, curry of turkey">Veal,
lamb, rabbits, or turkey</alt></purpose> may be cooked in the same
way.</variation> The addition of half a 
<ingredient>cocoa-nut,</ingredient>grated, is an improvement.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>CHICKENS FOR SUPPER.</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Mrs. Roberts, of Utica</attribution>).</p>
<p>After having boiled a <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>chickens</ingredient> in as little <ingredient>water</ingredient>as
possible until the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> falls from the bones, pick off
the <ingredient>meat,</ingredient> chop it rather fine, and season it well with
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Now put into
the bottom of a mold some slices of hard-<illustration><description>A fancy
molded dish garnished with vegetables and served on a round
platter.</description></illustration>boiled <ingredient>eggs,</ingredient> next
a layer of chopped <ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> then more slices of 
<ingredient>eggs</ingredient> and layers of 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient>until the mold is nearly full; boil down the 
<ingredient>water</ingredient> in which the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient>
was boiled until there is<pb n="179" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=185"/> about a cupful left,
season it well, and pour it over the <ingredient>chicken;</ingredient> it will
sink through, forming a jelly around it. Let it stand overnight or all day on
the <ingredient>ice.</ingredient> It is to be sliced at table. If there is any
fear about the jelly not being stiff enough, a little 
<ingredient>gelatine</ingredient> may be soaked and added to the cupful of 
<ingredient>stock.</ingredient> Garnish the dish with light-colored 
<ingredient>celery leaves,</ingredient> or with fringed 
<ingredient>celery.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="fruitvegbeans">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TO FRINGE CELERY FOR
GARNISHING.</purpose>Cut the stalks into two-inch lengths; stick plenty of
coarse needles into the top of a cork; draw half of the stalk of each piece of 
<ingredient>celery</ingredient> through the needles. When all the fibrous parts
are separated, lay the <ingredient>celery</ingredient> in some cold place to
curl and crisp.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">CHICKEN LIVERS.</purpose>Chop a
little <ingredient>onion,</ingredient> and fry it in 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> without allowing it to color; put in the 
<ingredient>liver</ingredient> and some <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> and
fry or 
<emph rend="italic">saut&#233;</emph> them until they are done; take out the 
<ingredient>livers,</ingredient> add a little <ingredient>hot
water</ingredient> to <ingredient>stock</ingredient> to the 
<ingredient>onions</ingredient> and <ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> thicken
it with some <ingredient>flour</ingredient> (<ingredient
rend="italic">roux,</ingredient> page 51); strain, season, and pour it over the
<ingredient>livers.</ingredient></p>
<p><variation>If <ingredient>stale bread</ingredient> is cut into the shape of
a small vase or cup, then fried to a good color in boiling 
<ingredient>lard,</ingredient> it is called a <ingredient
rend="italic">croustade.</ingredient> One of these is often used with 
<ingredient>chicken livers.</ingredient> Part of the 
<ingredient>livers</ingredient> are put in the top of the 
<emph rend="italic">croustade</emph> in the centre of the dish, and the
remainder are placed around it at the base. The dish is called "<purpose><emph
rend="italic">croustade</emph> of livers."</purpose></variation></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame" ethnicgroup="turkish">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">TURKISH PILAU.</purpose>Truss
one <ingredient>chicken</ingredient> (two and a half pounds) for boiling, and
cut five pounds of <ingredient>shoulder of mutton</ingredient> (boned) into two
pieces, which roll into shape; put some <ingredient>trimmings of
pork</ingredient> (enough to keep the <ingredient>meat</ingredient> from
sticking) into a large saucepan, and when hot place in the 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> and the rolls of 
<ingredient>mutton,</ingredient> and brown them completely by turning them over
the fire. Now make what is called a bouquet, viz.: Put a <ingredient>bay
leaf</ingredient> on the table; on this place three of four sprigs of 
<ingredient>parsley,</ingredient> one sprig of 
<ingredient>thyme,</ingredient>half of a <ingredient>shallot,</ingredient> four
<ingredient>cloves,</ingredient> and one table-spoonful of 
<ingredient>saffron</ingredient> (five<pb n="180" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=186"/> cents'
worth), and tie all together, leaving one end of the string long, to hang over
the top of the saucepan for convenience in taking out the bouquet. Put the 
<ingredient>chicken,</ingredient> the <ingredient>mutton,</ingredient> the
bouquet, and pinch of <ingredient>salt</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>pepper</ingredient> into three quarts of <ingredient>boiling
water;</ingredient> twenty minutes before they are done (it will require a
short hour to cook them), put in five ounces of 
<ingredient>rice</ingredient>(soaked an hour in <ingredient>cold
water</ingredient>); when done, take out the bouquet; put the 
<ingredient>chicken</ingredient> in the centre of a warm platter; cut the 
<ingredient>mutton</ingredient> into slices or scollops about half an inch
thick, and form them in a circle by lapping one over the other around the 
<ingredient>chicken.</ingredient> Pour the hot soup (freed from grease) over
the <ingredient>chicken;</ingredient> or the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient>
may be cut into joints (seven pieces), and the circle around the platter may be
formed of the <ingredient>chicken</ingredient>pieces and 
<ingredient>mutton</ingredient> scollops alternating, with the soup poured in
the centre.</p>
</recipe></section></chapter><chapter class1="meatfishgame"><hd
align="center">GEESE, DUCKS, AND GAME.</hd>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">ROAST GOOSE.</purpose>THE 
<ingredient>goose</ingredient> should be absolutely young. Green 
<ingredient>geese</ingredient> are best, 
<emph rend="italic">i.e.,</emph> when they are about four months old. In
trussing, cut the neck close to the back, leaving the skin long enough to turn
over the back; beat the breast-bone flat with the rolling-pin; tie or skewer
the legs and wing securely. Stuff the <ingredient>goose</ingredient> with the
following mixture: Four large <ingredient>onions</ingredient> (chopped), ten 
<ingredient>sage leaves,</ingredient> quarter of a pound of 
<ingredient>bread-crumbs,</ingredient> one and a half ounces of 
<ingredient>butter,</ingredient> <ingredient>salt</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> one <ingredient>egg,</ingredient> a slice of 
<ingredient>pork</ingredient> (chopped). Now sprinkle the top of the 
<ingredient>goose</ingredient> well with <ingredient>salt,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> and <ingredient>flour.</ingredient> Reserve
the <ingredient>giblets</ingredient> to boil and chop for the 
<ingredient>gravy,</ingredient> as you would for a turkey. Baste the 
<ingredient>goose</ingredient> repeatedly. If it is a green one, roast it at
least an hour and a half; if an older one, it would be preferable to bake it in
an oven, with plenty of <ingredient>hot water</ingredient> in the 
<implement>baking-pan.</implement> It should be basted very often with this 
<ingredient>water,</ingredient> and when it is nearly done baste it with 
<ingredient>butter</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>flour.</ingredient>Bake it three or four hours. Decorate the 
<ingredient>goose</ingredient> with <ingredient>water-cresses,</ingredient> and
serve it with the brown <ingredient>giblet gravy</ingredient> in the 
<implement>sauce-boat.</implement>Always serve an 
<ingredient>apple-sauce</ingredient> with this dish.</p>
</recipe><pb n="181" id="/projects/cookbooks/coldfusion/display.cfm?ID=pcdg&#38;PageNum=187"/>
<recipe class1="accompaniments">
<p align="center"><purpose>GOOSE STUFFING</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Soyer's Receipt</attribution>).</p>
<p>Take four <ingredient>apples</ingredient> peeled and cored, four 
<ingredient>onions,</ingredient> four leaves of 
<ingredient>sage,</ingredient>and four of <ingredient>thyme.</ingredient> Boil
them with sufficient <ingredient>water</ingredient> to cover them; when done,
pulp them through a sieve, removing the <ingredient>sage</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>thyme;</ingredient> then add enough pulp of mealy 
<ingredient>potatoes</ingredient> to cause the stuffing to be sufficiently dry,
without sticking to the hand. Add <ingredient>pepper</ingredient> and 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> and stuff the bird.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">DUCKS.</purpose>Truss and stuff
them with <ingredient>sage</ingredient> and <ingredient>onions</ingredient> as
you would a goose. If they are <ingredient>ducklings,</ingredient> roast them
from twenty-five to thirty minutes. Epicures say they like them quite
under-done, yet, at the same time, very hot. Full-grown 
<ingredient>ducks</ingredient> should be roasted an hour, and frequently
basted. Serve with them the <ingredient>brown giblet gravy</ingredient> or 
<ingredient>apple-sauce,</ingredient> or both. <ingredient>Green
pease</ingredient> should accompany the dish. Many parboil 
<ingredient>ducks</ingredient> before roasting or baking them. If there is a
suspicion of advanced age, parboil them.</p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p><purpose align="center" placement="heading">WILD DUCKS.</purpose>
<ingredient>Wild ducks</ingredient> should be cooked rare, with or without 
<ingredient>stuffing.</ingredient> Baste them a few minutes at first with 
<ingredient>hot water</ingredient> to which have been added an 
<ingredient>onion</ingredient> and <ingredient>salt.</ingredient> Then take
away the pan, and baste with <ingredient>butter,</ingredient> and a little 
<ingredient>flour</ingredient> to froth and brown them. The fire should be
quite hot, and twenty to twenty-five minutes are considered the outside limit
for cooking them. A <ingredient>brown gravy</ingredient> made with the 
<ingredient>giblets</ingredient> should be served in the bottom of the dish.
Serve also a <ingredient>currant-jelly.</ingredient> Garnish the dish with
slices of <ingredient>lemons.</ingredient></p>
</recipe>
<recipe class1="meatfishgame">
<p align="center"><purpose>DUCK AND PEASE STEWED</purpose> (<attribution
rend="italic">Warne</attribution>).</p>
<p>Remains of <ingredient>cold roast duck,</ingredient> with <ingredient>peel
of half a lemon,</ingredient> one quart of <ingredient>green
pease,</ingredient> a piece of <ingredient>butter</ingredient> rolled in 
<ingredient>flour,</ingredient> three-quarters of a pint of 
<ingredient>gravy,</ingredient> <ingredient>pepper,</ingredient> 
<ingredient>salt,</ingredient> an