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Title: With A Saucepan Over the Sea
Author: Keen, Adelaide
Publisher: Boston, Little, Brown, and Company.

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> WITH A SAUCEPAN OVER THE SEA

> CHAPTER ONE - Soups

COCKA LEEKIE. (Scotland.)

THIS is the oldest recipe for soup known, as it dates back to the fourteenth century. Wash and trim 1 dozen leeks, cut them in pieces half an inch long, discarding roots and tops, then fry them in 1 ounce of butter, with 2 stalks of celery and 1 carrot, cut fine. When brown but not burnt, add 1 1/2 quarts of chicken broth and I cup of cooked chicken, cut into dice. Simmer, covered, 2 hours, then add salt, pepper, and yolk of an egg, blended with a little of the broth, first, before adding to the soup.

PETITE MARMITE.

This is the national soup of France, and just now very fashionable in first-class restaurants. It is always served in the earthen pot in which it is cooked, set on a fancy plate. Each mouthful should convey a distinct taste of a separate vegetable. The marmites are sold at the crockery stores in the French quarter, but an ordinary earthen


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Boston bean pot will answer equally well to serve it in. The stock can be first cooked in a large kettle, used for soups, every day.

Cut up 6 pounds of beef and the shin bone, an old chicken,-which can be used for croquettes or salad,- 2 large carrots, 1 leeks, and 2 turnips. Add 3 cloves, a bayleaf, some parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram, 1 gallon of water. Bring it to a boil, skim it, and let it simmer 8 hours. Take off the fat, clarify it, and use it for frying or braising. Add salt and pepper sparingly, set it away overnight, after straining it. To 1 quart of this, heated in the earthen pot, add 1 cup of sliced carrots, turnips, or string beans, cut thin and cooked. Also 4 slices of toasted bread or rolls. Using this recipe for stock - it is given by a reliable chef at one of the clubs-it will make 3 1/2 quarts, sufficient for a week; 1 pint a day, with the addition of milk or vegetables or any other thickening, will do for a small family. Such concentrated stock requires an equal amount of water in cooking a second time. It may also be used in making sauces.

PURÉE JACKSON. (Paris.)

Wash, parboil, and pare 6 large potatoes. Slice them, add 2 ounces of butter, fry lightly, then add salt, pepper, nutmeg, a bayleaf, some parsley, 2


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ounces of chopped ham, 1 sliced onion, and 6 stalks of celery. Simmer for 3/4 hour. Press through a sieve, add 1 pint of white stock made from chicken or veal, and 1 pint of boiling milk, 2 ounces of butter, and the yolk of 1 egg, blended with a little of the milk. Stir well, add some bread, toasted and cut in dice, called croutons, and serve at once.

EGG SOUP. (Monte Carlo.)

Cut 6 slices of stale bread and dip them lightly in sugar. Put them in the oven to brown, and have ready 1 pint of white stock and 1 pint of boiling milk, blended with the yolks of 3 eggs and 1ounce of butter. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg and a spoonful of chopped parsley. Pour over the slices of toast and serve, after keeping hot, ten minutes.

QUEEN SOUP.

This is said to have been invented for Marie Stuart by the royal cook when she lived in France as dauphiness. It was a favorite with both Victoria and Napoleon Bonaparte. Cook 2 large onions with 2 pieces of celery, both cut up, in 2 ounces of butter. Add some parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf, 1 chicken cut into joints, and 2 quarts of water. Simmer for 4 hours. Take


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out the chicken, cut the meat of the wings and breast into dice, and keep the dark meat for croquettes or salad. Chop one dozen blanched almonds, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, and 2 slices of bread soaked in milk. Pound these with the meat and press through a sieve; add to the soup, strained, 1 cup of boiling cream or rich milk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Serve at once, hot.

CHICKEN SOUP. (As made in Nice.)

Cook 1 ounce of ham with 1 1/2 quarts of chicken broth for 1/2 hour. Add I cup of young carrots cut into dice, 1 dozen small white onions, and 1 cup of turnips, cut into dice, all cooked previously, also two tablespoonfuls of cooked shredded cabbage, the meat from breast and wings cut into dice, and 2 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice. Strain the soup before adding the vegetables and chicken, season it, and serve.

LOBSTER SOUP. (Paris.)

Boil 1 fine hen lobster weighing 2 pounds. Pick and chop the meat and pound the coral with 1 ounce of butter and rub it through a sieve. Add to the meat 2 quarts of white stock, 1 onion, parsley, thyme, and the rind of a lemon. Cook 1/2 hour, add a blending of flour and butter, and rub it


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through a sieve. Season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, add 1/2 pint of whipped cream, and serve, giving a little cream to each person.

LOBSTER SOUP. (London.)

Cut into dice the meat of a boiled lobster, fry it with 1 carrot, 1 onion, 4 pieces of celery, all sliced, parsley, thyme, and the rind of a lemon, in 2 ounces of butter. Add 6 ounces of rice flour, or cooked rice rubbed to a paste, 3 pints of good stock, and the meat and pounded coral. Cook 1/2 hour, press through a sieve, add 1 glass of sherry, some of the meat in pieces, and made into force-meat balls with bread, herbs, eggs, and poached in a little broth.

CREAM OF SHRIMPS. (As made in Nice.)

Boil, shell, clean, and chop fifty shrimps, fry them in 2 ounces of butter, add 1 slice of stale bread, 3 anchovies, 4 ounces of boiled rice, 1 sliced onion, salt, pepper, and 1 quarts of white stock. Cook this 1 hours. Press through a sieve a tablespoonful of sherry or a glass of white wine, and serve hot.

CREAM OF SHRIMPS. (As made in Paris.)

Parboil, shell, clean, and chop fifty fine shrimps, fry in 1 ounces of butter, add 1 cup of bread-crumbs


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of stale bread, not the crust, salt and pepper, 2 quarts of fish stock or that made of chicken or veal, 1 clove, 1 onion, sliced. Save six of the shrimps to add, cut into dice, before serving. Cook 2 hours, press through a sieve, add 1 cup of boiling cream, a little nutmeg, and the shrimps and 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry.

LOBSTER SOUP. (As made in Nantes, France.)

Cook 1 ounce of chopped ham, 1 onion, and 1 carrot, cut fine, parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf, in 1 ounce of butter. Add 3 pounds of lobster meat, cooked and cut into dice, 1 pint of white wine, and 1 1/2 quarts of veal stock. Simmer 1 hour. Strain the soup, add 2 cups of boiled rice and 1 hard-boiled egg sliced and some butter. Season and serve with croutons.

CONSOMMÉ COLBERT. (France.)

Clarify 1 quart of beef stock, well flavored and made from fresh meat, add 1 tablespoonful of sherry, and in each plate put an egg, poached in water and vinegar, to keep it firm and white. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve very hot.

SOUP BONNE FEMME. (Provincial France.)

This is the broth of the farmer and peasant's wife, wholesome and nourishing. Wash, dry, and


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cut up 2 large lettuces, 1 pound of sorrel, and 1 pound of spinach. Add 1 1/2 quarts of good white stock and simmer, with 1/4 pound of butter, 2 onions, and 2 carrots, for 1 hour. Add a blending of 1 ounce of butter, 1 ounce of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, and a cup of boiling milk, salt, and pepper. Press through a sieve, and serve with croutons.

PECTORAL BROTH. (A French convent soup, given to delicate nuns.)

Cut up an old fowl and put with the liver, heart, and gizzard, 1 quarts of water, with a handful of marshmallow root and 2 cups of barley, 1 carrot, 3 onions, parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Simmer for 3 hours, strain the broth, pressing the barley through a sieve ; add the yolk of I egg, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of rum or brandy. It should be reduced to almost a quart, and is very healing.

PIGEON SOUP. (Belgium.)

Blend 1 ounce of butter with 6 ounces of flour, add 3 pigeons, cut up and fried in butter, 1 ounce of chopped ham, 1 quarts of consomme or veal stock, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, 1 leek, and a piece of celery. Cook 1 hour, strain it, cut the meat into dice, add 1 cup of cooked green peas, salt,


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pepper, 1 cup of cooked and sliced carrots, and a glass of white wine.

FROG SOUP. (Normandy.)

To 1 1/2 quarts of white stock, add 1 1/2 ounces of flour, an onion, parsley, celery, salt, and pepper. Cook it 1 hour, strain and add 1 dozen frogs' legs, fried in butter, and a glass of sherry. Cook 1/2 hour more, add the yolks of 2 eggs, blended with 1 cup of hot milk and a little butter.

HARE SOUP. (Poland.)

Cook the bones, trimmings, gravy, and stuffing of some cooked rabbit with 3 onions, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, sliced, 2 cloves, a little mace, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, and a piece of celery. Add 1 ounce of butter, and then, when fried together, add 1 quart of beef stock. Cook 2 hours, strain it, taking out the bones and pressing the rest through a sieve. Add 1 dozen forcemeat balls, made of bread-crumbs, chopped ham, herbs, egg, and butter, and poached in stock, a tablespoonful of port wine, and salt and pepper.

LIVER SOUP. (Poland.)

Cut 1/2 pound of liver into slices, add flour, - a spoonful, - 1 ounce of butter and 1 onion, cut fine. Fry this and then pound it, add three slices of


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stale bread, in crumbs, salt, and pepper and 3 pints of brown stock. Boil 20 minutes, press through a sieve, add yolk of 1 egg and some chopped parsley, and serve at once.

EEL SOUP. (Hamburg.)

Clean and cut into 2-inch pieces 2 pounds of eels. Add 1 pint of boiling water, salt, pepper, parsley, 1 carrot, 1 onion, and 1/2 cup of vinegar. Cook 20 minutes, then add 1 cup of finely sliced carrot, cooked in water until tender, and 1 cup of cooked peas, 2 quarts of white stock, parsley, some thyme, and sweet marjoram, one half of the eel broth and salt. Finally blend and add 1 cup of hot milk and the yolk of 1 egg and pour into a tureen over the eels. Pass with this a dish of stewed pears, as they do in Hamburg.

FRENCH GIBLET SOUP.

Chop the liver, wings, gizzard, and heart of a turkey, or 2 chickens fine, and fry them in 1 ounce of butter with 1 onion; add 1 quart of beef stock and 1 pint of hot water, salt, pepper, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 2 pieces of celery, and 2 ounces of rice. Cook for 1 hour and serve hot.

ENGLISH GIBLET SOUP.

Fry the chopped giblets in butter, as above, add 2 ounces of flour, stir, and when brown, add 1 quart


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of beef stock, a bayleaf, some parsley, 3 pieces of cooked celery, cut into dice, 2 sliced hard-boiled eggs, a tablespoonful of sherry, and 6 forcemeat balls, made of the meat of the fowl, bread, herbs, and egg, poached in broth. Heat all well and serve hot.

OXCHEEK SOUP. (England.)

Fry 2 ounces of chopped ham with 1 onions and 2 carrots, minced, a bayleaf, some parsley, in 2 ounces of butter. Add 2 small heads of celery, 1 parsnip, and 2 slices of toast, a little mace, 1 clove, and 5 quarts of water, and the oxcheek cut into dice. Simmer gently 5 hours. Season to taste. It will make about 4 quarts of rich but economical broth.

OXTAIL SOUP. (England.)

This recipe and the one above were brought by French refugees who had learned, during exile and enforced poverty, how to make the best of their resources.

Cut 3 oxtails into pieces and steep them in water for 2 hours. Drain them, fry in 2 ounces of butter or suet, add salt, pepper, 2 carrots, 1 leek, 1 onion, a piece of celery, 1 clove, and some parsley. Simmer 3 hours, remove the bones, and put the meat into the soup, add 6 small white onions, fried in butter until tender, and serve with croutons.

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CALF'S HEAD SOUP. (Recipe of the Hotel Star and Garter, Richmond, England.)

Parboil and bone a calf's head. Put the bones and the meat, cut up, in 4 quarts of water with 1 ounce of flour, salt, pepper, a bayleaf, some parsley, a clove, 1 carrot, and 1 onion. Cook 4 hours, take out the bones, cut the meat into dice, strain the soup, add the meat, 3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced, 1 dozen poached forcemeat balls, made of some meat, bread-crumbs, herbs, and egg, 1 glass of sherry and 1 lemon, cut in slices. Serve at once, hot.

BATTENBERG SOUP (as made at Windsor).

Cook 1 calf's foot, 3 pounds of soup beef, 3 carrots, 3 onions, 2 cloves, a piece of celery, parsley, and thyme, in 3 1/2 quarts of water for 4 hours. Take out the meat, remove the bones, put the meat, cut up, back in the soup, and set aside until next day. Skim off the fat-clarify it, as directed for frying or braising-strain the soup, add sufficient flour and butter to thicken it, the meat, 1 glass of sherry, salt, pepper, and 1 cup of hot cream.

REGENT'S SOUP. (England.)

Add to the bones, stuffing, gravy, and trimmings of cold roast duck or game, 2 quarts of beef stock, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 turnip, 1 head of celery all


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cut up, 4 ounces of barley, parsley, thyme, and a clove. Simmer 2 hours, press through a sieve, season to taste, add the pounded yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, half a cup of boiling milk, and a glass of sherry.

PEPPER-POT.

This dish is peculiar to Spain, but it was imported to Jamaica, whence the negroes took the recipe north. In Philadelphia, there are several small restaurants, kept by darkies who are famous for pepper-pot.

To 3 quarts of water add 1 pint of vegetables, cut up, any kinds, mixed, you happen to have, in equal parts, using beans, peas, celery, carrots, onions, rice, lettuce, etc., also potatoes, add 1 pound of mutton, 1 pound of salt pork, and 1 pound of honeycomb tripe, cut up and fried in butter or suet, 1 bayleaf, 1 clove, parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Cook, closely covered, 3 hours. Set aside to cool, remove the fat, thicken with flour and butter and yolk of an egg, add salt and pepper, and serve very hot.

CLEAR GAME SOUP. (Poland.)

Cut up a calf's foot, add the bones and scraps and gravy of any cold game, duck, or rabbit, 2 ounces of chopped ham, 1 onion, 2 carrots, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, a bit of mace, and a piece of celery.


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Cook it with 2 quarts of water for 3 hours. Strain and clarify it with white of an egg, add salt, pepper, a glass of sherry, 1 hard-boiled egg, and 1 lemon, sliced.

PIGEON BROTH. (Boulogne.)

Lard and roast 4 fine pigeons, cut up the meat and put the bones and gravy in 1 quart of stock to cook. Chop the meat, with one onion, 1 pound of bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and 1 ounce of butter. Add to the rest and cook 1 hour. Press through a sieve, add 1 tablespoonful of port or sherry, salt, pepper, and some slices of toasted bread.

LOBSTER MULLIGATAWNY. (England.)

Cook 2 ounces of chopped ham, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 bayleaf, some parsley, 1 ounce of butter. Add two pounds of boiled lobster, cut into dice, 1 quart of veal stock, 1 spoonful of sherry, 1 ounce of flour mixed with 1 ounce of butter, a table-spoonful of curry powder, then cook 1/2 hour. Add the yolks of 2 eggs and 1/2 cup of hot cream, press through a sieve, and serve with a dish of boiled rice.

LENTEN BROTH (as made in the convents of France and Austria).

Cook 2 pounds of flounders or any white fish, cut up, with 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 turnip, 2 pieces of


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celery, and a bunch of herbs, with 1 quart of water, for 2 hours. Take out the fish, remove skin and bones, and put the fish back again, add 1 pint of boiling milk, mixed with flour and butter, the yolk of an egg and juice of a lemon, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Press through a sieve and serve hot.

FISH BROTH (as made in Sweden).

Take the water in which a large fresh fish has been boiled, add any scraps or gravy, left over; reduce by boiling to 1 quart. Strain it, add 1 leek, 6 potatoes, 1 carrot, cut up, a bayleaf, and some parsley. Simmer for 1/2 hour, add 1 pint of hot white stock, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of sherry, and 12 oysters. Cook ten minutes more and serve.

TURKEY SOUP. (Rouen.)

Chop the dark meat of a turkey, add the gravy, bones, skin, and stuffing, 1 cup of bread-crumbs, an onion, some parsley, and 2 quarts of water. Cook 3 hours, add salt and pepper, nutmeg, 1/2 cup of boiling milk, mixed with a little butter and flour, and press through a sieve.

TCHI. (Russian Soup.)

Make 1 pound of sausage meat into small balls and fry them brown. Chop 2 large onions and


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the heart of a cabbage, fry them in butter or suet, add 2 ounces flour, salt, pepper, parsley, and 3 pints of stock. Cook 1 hour, add the sausage balls, and 1 glass of tarragon vinegar.

CRÉCY SOUP. (Flanders.)

The Prince of Wales always eats a bowl of this every 26th of August, in memory of his ancestor, the Black Prince, and the battle of Crécy.

Wash, scrape, and slice 12 fine young carrots; cook in 1 ounce of butter with 1 spoonful of chopped ham or bacon, 1 onion, 1 turnip, a bay-leaf, parsley, and sweet marjoram. Stir while cooking, add 1 quart of stock, simmer two hours. Press through a sieve, add salt, pepper, and nutmeg and croutons.

CONSOMMÉ RACHEL. (France.)

This soup was created for the great actress who, like most people of genius, was a bonne fourchette.

Mix 1 cup of finely chopped and cooked chicken with sufficient white stock to make a paste. Season it and cook, like a custard, in a pan of water. Then cut in squares. Heat 1 quart of consomme with a thickening of flour and butter, 1 ounce of each, and the yolk of an egg and 1/2 cup of cream. Add salt, pepper, the chicken custard, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas.

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POTAGE REUNION (invented for a banquet of a peace congress).

Boil 1 pound of cooked salmon in 2 quarts of white stock for 1/2 hour. Add salt and pepper and a blending of 1 cup of milk, some flour, butter, and yolk of an egg. Cook carefully ten minutes longer; add 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, a little nutmeg and salt. Press through a sieve, add 2 dozen small cooked oysters, and serve at once.

CRÊME FERNEUSE. (Paris.)

Peel and shred 4 large onions, 2 leeks, a bunch of herbs, 2 ounces ham or bacon, and fry in 2 ounces butter. Add 2 ounces boiled rice, 1 quart milk, and 1 quart of veal stock. Cook 20 minutes, add 1 piece of celery, 4 peeled and sliced potatoes, the same amount of turnips, and simmer 1 1/2 hours. Add 1 cup of boiling clam or oyster juice, salt, and pepper. Press through a sieve and serve at once.

POTAGE JACQUELINE. (Paris.)

Blend 1 cup of milk, yolks 3 eggs, and 1 ounce flour, over the fire. Add 1 1/2 quarts chicken broth, boiling hot, salt, pepper, parsley, then strain it and add one tablespoonful of boiled rice, the same of cooked green peas, carrots, and asparagus, cut up.

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POTAGE BELLE FONTAINE. (Paris.)

Cook 1 quart good veal stock with 1 tablespoonful of chopped ham and the meat of a chicken, about 2 cupfuls, minced very finely. Simmer for 40 minutes, add salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of onion juice, then press through a sieve. Finally, add 1 cup of cooked and shredded cabbage.

CREAM of BARLEY SOUP. (Vienna.)

Cook 2 ounces barley, 1 onions, and 2 carrots, sliced, 1 bay leaf, and some parsley, for 3 hours, in 1 quarts veal or chicken stock. Add yolks of 2 eggs and 1 cup of hot milk, and press through a sieve. Season and add 1 cup of asparagus tips or green peas, already cooked.

ITALIAN SOUP.

Cook 1/2 pint of fine cornmeal - they call it semolina in Italy-with 1 ounce butter, 1 quart white stock, salt, pepper, and nutmeg for 1 hour. Add some parsley, stir and strain it, then add the yolk of an egg, blended with 1/2 pint hot milk. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese and croutons.

A FRENCH SOUP OF LEEKS.

In the provinces they make many savory soups with vegetables which contain all the mineral salts


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we need so much for our nerves and blood, especially in the spring.

Trim and slice a large bundle of leeks, discard the greenest part of the tops and fry the rest in 2 ounces butter, add 2 ounces flour, then a pint of hot milk and a pint of white stock, parsley, salt, and pepper. Cook 40 minutes, add yolk of one egg, and serve with croutons.

GERMAN VEAL BROTH.

Cut up 2 pounds of the knuckle of veal and cook it in 3 quarts water, with 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 clove, salt, pepper, parsley, and thyme. Simmer for 4 hours. Cool, skim, and strain it. To 1 1/2 quarts of this stock add 1/4 pound cooked vermicelli, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg blended with half a cup of milk.

TURNIP SOUP. (Rouen.)

Pare and chop 1 quart of turnips, fry in 2 ounces butter or suet, add half a spoonful of sugar and some parsley, and 1 pint consommé. Cook 3/4 hour. Make six slices of toast, pour the turnips, well seasoned, into a dish, lay the toast over, dot with butter, and bake 1/2 hour. This is served in Rouen with a tureen of hot consommé and a tablespoonful given on each plate, but it can also


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[Illustration: An illustration of a meal with a plate of three toast, a bowl of soup, and two glasses of wine.]




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be made into one broth, cooking the turnips in the whole amount of stock, pressing them through a sieve and putting toast on top, when serving. Is excellent made of rabbit stock, instead of beef.

VEGETABLE SOUP (made in France, during Lent).

Fry 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 2 onions, 1/2 pint string beans, 1 leek, 1 cup of spinach with some parsley and a bit of celery, in 2 ounces butter. Add 1 ounce flour, 1 quart, and a pint of milk, 1 pint of stewed tomatoes, and a pinch of baking soda, also a blade of mace. Simmer for 2 hours, press through a sieve, add a teaspoonful of sugar, a little butter blended with flour, and 2 tablespoonfuls each of cooked rice and peas.

TOMATO SOUP (as made in Germany). Cut up 1 pound of veal from the breast, add the bones and 1 ounce butter, 1 onion, and 1 carrot, and 3 quarts water, parsley, salt, and pepper, 1 pint tomatoes and 1 green pepper, cut up and free from seeds. Cook 3 hours, add a spoonful of sugar and 1 cup of boiled rice.

ONION SOUP, WITH CHEESE. (Italy.)

This is a favorite soup at the French and Italian restaurants in New York. It is the "plat de jour" for Mondays.

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Slice four large onions very thin, fry them in butter, and add them to 1 quart of well-flavored beef consommé. Put these in an earthen pipkin or marmite, and arrange on top four slices of toasted bread, on which sprinkle 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. Keep these hot, and serve in the dish, one slice of toast for each person. Small yellow bowls, such as are used for custards, etc., are generally passed with the soup, instead of ordinary soup plates. The foreign flavor depends greatly upon such trifles, imitating the inns of the old country.

CHESTNUT SOUP. {A French recipe.)

Boil 1 quart of large and sound chestnuts in salted water for 20 minutes; peel and chop them. Add 1 quart water, a teaspoonful of salt and one of sugar, and the rind of a lemon. Cook for half an hour, then rub through a sieve. Add 1 quarts white stock, a tablespoonful of butter blended with a tablespoonful of flour, pepper, and a little parsley. Stir for twenty minutes and rub through a sieve. Serve with toast.

CHESTNUT SOUP. (Italian style.)

Peel and blanch fifty large chestnuts. Cook them in sufficient veal stock to cover, with 2


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tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper and nutmeg, for 2 hours. To every quart of this now add a pint of hot milk. Press through a sieve, add the yolk of one egg, a tablespoonful of sherry, and serve with croutons.

CHEESE SOUP. (Southern France.)

Peel, slice, and fry 6 onions with 1/4 pound of ham, minced, and 2 ounces butter. Add 1/2 pound bread-crumbs, 3 pints good white stock, - preferably chicken, - salt, pepper, and a blade of mace. Cook for 1/2 hour, add 1/4 pound grated Parmesan cheese, and yolks of 1 eggs. Strain it by pressing it through a sieve, and serve at once.

CUCUMBER SOUP. (Greece.)

Peel 4 large cucumbers, slice them, and remove the seeds. Fry with 1 ounce butter, add salt, pepper, a blade of mace, 1 pint hot milk, and 1 quart white stock. Cook 1 1/2 hours. Thicken with flour and butter and press through a sieve.

OYSTER SOUP. (A French recipe.)

Drain 1 quart of oysters and season with salt, pepper, a blade of mace, a bayleaf, and 1 ounce butter. Add 1/2 pint of white stock and cook fifteen minutes. Remove the oysters and herbs,


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and to the stock add the juice of the oysters and 1 pint of hot milk, the yolk of 1 egg, some parsley, and a blending of flour and butter. Put in the oysters, and after stirring a few moments serve hot.

ONION BROTH. (Dieppe.)

Parboil 6 large onions, slice them, and toss in 1 ounce of butter with salt, pepper, and some parsley. Add 1 1/2 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 quart of white stock, made from fish or chicken, also 1 pint of hot milk. Press through a sieve and serve with slices of toast.

POTATO SOUP. (Normandy.)

Parboil, slice, and pare ten large potatoes. Drain them and add 1 onions, sliced, 2 bits of celery, and 1 ounce butter. Cook for 10 minutes, add 4 slices of stale bread, and 1 quart of white stock. Simmer for 2 hours, add salt, pepper, and nutmeg, 1 pint of hot milk blended with flour and butter. Press through a sieve and serve with croutons.

POTATO SOUP. (Geneva.)

Parboil and pare 6 large potatoes, fry them in 1 ounce of butter, add salt, pepper, parsley, a blade of mace, and a bayleaf, also 1/4 pound of chopped ham. Cover with 1 quart consomme, add a teaspoonful


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of sugar, 1 of butter, 1 of flour, and the yolks of 2 eggs. Press through a sieve.

COD SOUP. (Brittany.)

To the flesh of three fine medium-sized cod, add 3 quarts veal stock, parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, and a bayleaf, also an onion. Cook 2 hours, press through a sieve, add flour blended with butter, salt, pepper, 1 glass of white wine, and 1 dozen oysters. Simmer for 10 minutes and then serve.

TURNIP SOUP. (Northern Italy.)

Pare, slice, and fry 1 1/2 quarts of turnips, with 1 tablespoonful sugar, 2 ounces butter, and 2 ounces flour. Add 1 pint of tomatoes, parsley, bayleaf, and thyme. Simmer 1 hour, press through a sieve. Add 1 cup of hot beef stock and a table-spoonful of grated cheese, salt, and pepper.

CREAM of RICE. (Paris.)

Wash, drain, and parboil 1/2 pound of rice; add 1 quart of chicken broth, salt, pepper, and parsley, and a tablespoonful of chopped onions. Cook 1 hour and press through a sieve; add yolks of 2 eggs mixed with 2 tablespoonfuls cream and 6 forcemeat balls and some asparagus tips, both cooked previously. The balls must be made of chicken and bread-crumbs.

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CREAM of CELERY. (Paris.)

Cut off the tips of one head of celery and mash it with a potato-masher, then boil it twenty minutes in 1 pint of chicken broth. Blend 2 tablespoonfuls of flour with the same amount of butter, add salt and pepper, stir in 1 pint rich, boiling milk and then strain it carefully.

BLACK BEAN SOUP. (Spain.)

Brown one onion with 1 ounce butter, add 1 pint of black beans soaked over night and drained, 1/2 a shin of beef and 3 quarts of water, 1 teaspoonful of allspice and cloves, tied in a bit of muslin, some parsley and thyme. Cook 4 hours, press through a sieve, add salt and pepper, 1 hard-boiled egg, and 1 lemon, sliced, and 1 glass of sherry.

PURÉE OF BROAD BEANS. (Brittany.)

Cook 1 1/2 pints of fresh Lima beans in salted water with 1 ounce chopped ham, some parsley, a clove, and an onion. When tender, drain and add 1 ounce butter and strain the liquor and put it aside. Press the beans through a sieve, add 1 pint of stock, 1 pint hot milk, salt, and pepper. It is best made with chicken or veal broth. Reduce the liquor by boiling and add to the soup. Serve with croutons.

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PURÉE OF STRING BEANS. (Italy.)

Pick and string and cut up 1 pint of beans, parboil, and strain them, and add 1 pint white stock and 1 ounces butter mixed with 2 ounces flour. Cook 20 minutes, season, and press through a sieve. Add 1 cup of hot cream or rich milk and serve.

POTAGE ST. GERMAIN. (France.)

Cook 1 quart fresh peas in water to cover, with some parsley, 1 leek, and 1/2 ounce butter, added. Press all through a sieve. Stir in 1 pint of hot stock, chicken or veal, with yolks of 2 eggs, pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. Add 1/2 a tea-spoonful of sugar and 1 cup of boiling cream.

LEMON SOUP. (France.)

This is a very dainty soup and deserves to be better known.

Heat 1 1/2 quarts of chicken stock and make some forcemeat balls of a little cold chopped chicken, bread-crumbs, herbs, and yolk of an egg. Poach them in the stock and keep warm. Now thicken the stock with 1/2 cup of milk or cream, mixed with the yolks of 3 eggs, salt, and pepper, the juice of a lemon and a pinch of nutmeg. Serve with slices of toast. A convent recipe, dating to the days before the Revolution.

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CREAM of LETTUCE. (France.)

Wash and drain three large heads of lettuce, chop them, and fry them with 1/4 pound of butter. Add salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley, 5 ounces of rice, and 2 quarts of white stock. Cook for 45 minutes, press through a sieve, add 1 pint of boiling milk, and serve with croutons.

SORREL SOUP. (Provincial France.)

This recipe comes from the country, but the homesick students can always find sorrel soup in the little restaurants of the Latin Quarter.

Pick sufficient sorrel to make a pint of puree, chop it, and add 1 ounce butter; cook, stirring well, for 20 minutes. Add 1 ounce flour and press through a sieve; let it cook again, with 1 pint hot milk and 1 pint of stock; season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg and stir in the yolks of 2 eggs. Strain it again and serve with croutons.

ENDIVE SOUP. (Alsace-Lorraine.)

Trim and parboil 4 heads of chicory, drain it and chop it very fine. Add 1 ounces butter, salt, pepper, and mace, and 1 ounces flour. Then add 1 quart of veal stock and 1 cup of boiling milk. Cook for 1 hour, add yolks of 2 eggs, beaten in 1/2 cup of milk, and strain it through a sieve. Serve at once.

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LENTIL SOUP. (Bavaria.)

Soak 1 pint of lentils overnight, drain them, and add 1 quart of stock and 1 pint of water, some parsley, 2 leeks, a bit of celery, 2 ounces of chopped ham, an onion, and a carrot. Cook 3 hours, rub through a sieve, add the juice of a lemon, salt, and pepper. If not thick and smooth, add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed with as much butter.

VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP. (England.)

Vegetable marrow is a species of squash, and the latter is a good substitute.

Peel and slice a large squash; fry it in 2 ounces butter, with salt, pepper, and 4 ounces of flour. Add 1 quart of milk and 1 pint of strong veal or chicken stock, some parsley, onion, and a carrot. Cook for 1 hour, press through a sieve, add a pinch of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, and serve with croutons.

TUSCANY SOUP. (Italy.)

Peel and slice and fry 2 egg-plants, with 1 ounce of butter and as much flour, salt, pepper, a blade of mace, 3 large tomatoes, 4 mushrooms, some parsley, and then add 1 quart of consomme. Cook for 1 hour, press through a sieve, add 2 table-spoonfuls of grated cheese and 2 ounces of cooked 27


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macaroni. In Italy, the above mixture is baked in a dish, and a spoonful is added to every plate of consomme when serving, but the recipe as here given is better suited to American tastes.

CABBAGE SOUP. (Sicily.)

Trim and slice a nice head of cabbage, parboil it, and drain it and chop it finely. Fry it in an ounce of butter; add a tablespoonful of flour, salt, pepper, and 1 quart of veal broth. Simmer 1 hour, press it through a sieve, add 1 pint of hot milk, season it, and serve with croutons.

GREEK BROTH.

Cut up a shoulder of mutton, or the neck, take out the bones and add to both meat and bones 2 quarts of water, 1/2 pint split peas, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped ham, 1 onion, 1 carrot, some parsley and thyme. Cook 3 hours, remove the bones, cut up the meat and press the rest through a sieve. Season to taste and return the meat to the broth.

PRUSSIAN SOUP. (A national dish.)

Cut up and fry in 3 ounces of suet 2 heads of celery, 1 carrots, 1 turnips, 1 onions, 2 leeks, and 1 pound of potatoes. Add 1/2 pound of beef cut into dice, cover and steam, but do not let it burn. Then add 2 quarts of water, 1 pint of dried beans


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soaked overnight, and a bunch of herbs. Cook 4 hours, press through a sieve, and add salt and pepper.

PUCHERO. (Spanish Soup.)

This also is a national dish, common to rich and poor.

Cut up three pounds of beef, 1 pig's foot, 1/2 pound of ham, the giblets of a fowl, and three handfuls of garbanzos, or chick peas. Simmer 2 hours, add a slice of pumpkin, free from seeds, 1 large carrot, 1 head of lettuce, 1/2 a cabbage, and a bunch of herbs. Cook 1 hour longer, add 6 small sausages, and boil till they are done. Strain and thicken the soup and serve the meat and vegetables, neatly arranged on a separate dish.

GARBURE. (Another national dish of Spain.)

Parboil, peel, and slice a small white cabbage, drain it, and add 1/4 pound of sliced bacon, salt, pepper, a clove, 1 leek, 1 carrot, 1 onion, and 6 pieces of celery. Stir these with, enough suet or butter to brown them, add two quarts of good stock, and cook for two hours, or as much as will cover the meat and vegetables. Make a forcemeat with 1/4 pound of stale bread, butter, stock, and herbs, and line a dish with it, arranging the vegetables, etc., in layers with forcemeat between. Add


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enough stock to moisten all and have forcemeat and a layer of grated cheese on top. Bake in the oven half an hour and serve with a tureen of hot consomme. When helping the latter, put a table-spoonful in each plate.

HUNGARIAN SOUP.

Chop 2 cups of cold roast duck with 1 ounce of parsley, bayleaf, and thyme. Fry in 1 ounce of butter, add 1 ounce flour, then 1 quart of beef stock, and 1/2 pint of white wine or cider. Cook 1 hour. Rub through a sieve, add some pieces of duck and 1 green pepper, sliced and free from seeds and fried in butter, also 1 cup of cooked barley, salt, and pepper to taste.

MANNHEIM SOUP. (Germany.)

To 1 quart of stock add sufficient tomatoes and herbs to make a cream when strained, heat it again, and add 1 ounce of rice and 1/2 pound of cooked salmon or shrimps chopped fine, an onion, a carrot, and thyme and parsley. Cook 1/2 hour or longer, rub through a sieve, and serve with a plate of boiled rice.

CHERRY SOUP. (Berlin.)

Trim and stone 1 pint of red cherries, add I pint of water, juice and grated rind of a lemon, cinnamon,


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sugar to taste, and 3 tablespoonfuls of wine or cordial, claret is the best. Cook until done and serve, hot or very cold, with a plate of buttered toast. It will take about half an hour to cook, mashing the fruit well. These fruit and wine soups are favorite hot weather fare in Austria and Germany.

APPLE SOUP.

Pare and stew 8 fine apples in 1/2 pint of water. Add sugar to taste, press through a sieve, flavor with lemon juice and nutmeg and add a tablespoonful of cornstarch. Cook about ten minutes, add, when cool, 1 pint of white wine or cider, and pour it over 4 apples, sliced and cooked in syrup.

STRAWBERRY SOUP.

Wash and drain 1/2 pound of strawberries, sprinkle them with sugar, set them aside. Make a syrup of 1 pound of sugar and 3 pints of water, add 1 1/2, pounds of strawberries and the juice of a lemon. Mash, strain, and cool this; add 1/2 pint of light wine and the sugared berries. Serve very cold.

WINE SOUP.

Mix rapidly on the fire 1 quart of white wine, 1 quart of water, 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch, yolks of 6 eggs, juice and rind of a lemon, and 4 tablespoonfuls


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of sugar. Stir it, but do not let it boil for 20 minutes. Then add the beaten whites sweetened with sugar, and put on ice to cool.

CHOCOLATE SOUP. (Italy)

Boil 2 ounces of grated chocolate, a spoonful of vanilla, sugar to taste, and one quart of milk, until smooth. Add the yolks of 4 eggs well beaten, take off and pour over slices of stale sponge cake. Serve cold.

COLEVA. (All Souls Broth. Greece.)

Boil 1 quart of milk, add 1/2 pint of cooked barley, 1/2 cup each of washed raisins and currants, 1 cup of chopped raw apples and nutmeg, sugar and cinnamon to taste. Cook for 1/2 hour and serve hot.

The peasants are very fond of this, which they make and put in dishes on the graves of the dead, All Souls' Eve, for the yearly feast of the departed.

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> CHAPTER TWO-- Fish, Eggs, and Sauces

SHRIMP CUTLETS. (Vaucluse.)

CHOP and mince 1 1/2 pounds of freshly boiled shrimps. Melt 2 ounces of butter and add 2 ounces of flour, then 1 cup of boiling cream, also the minced fish. Stir and boil and take off the fire, add the yolks of 3 eggs and a pinch of nutmeg, salt, pepper, and some chopped parsley. Pour into a buttered pan 1/2 inch deep ; when cold, cut into shape, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in boiling lard. Stick a small piece of macaroni, to imitate a bone, at the end of each cutlet and serve with a good sauce, Tartare or Bechamel.

SHRIMPS, ST. JACQUES. (Trouville.)

Shell 1 quart of boiled shrimps, chop them, and fry in 1 ounce of butter with an onion. Add 1 cup of milk, salt, pepper, parsley, and the yolk of 1 egg. Stir, but do not let it boil. Pour into buttered dishes or clam shells, cover with bread-crumbs and bake till brown. Serve with sliced lemon.

SHRIMPS, BORDELAISE.

Cut into dice 1/2 can or 1 cup of shrimps, add 1 tablespoonful of chopped ham, 1 ounce flour,


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and 1 ounce of butter, mixed, 1 cup of stock or consomme, 1 tablespoonful of tomato sauce or mushroom ketchup, 1 slice of chopped onion, a bayleaf, and 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Cook carefully until the sauce is smooth and thick, adding salt and pepper.

INDIAN PUFFS. (England.)

Pick and chop finely 1 pint of freshly boiled shrimps, add a tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of curry powder, and as much cream or white stock as will make it a smooth paste. Roll sufficient pie-crust very thin, cut into 4-inch squares, fill with this, fold in triangles, and fry them in boiling fat. Serve on a napkin garnished with parsley.

CRABS (as cooked in Marseilles).

Boil, pick, and chop into dice 6 large crabs, fry in 1 ounces of butter with 1 tablespoonful of minced onion, 1 ounce flour, 1 green pepper, free from seed, and 4 pods of ochra, all cut into dice, add some parsley, 1 cup of white stock, and 2 table-spoonfuls of white wine. Cook 20 minutes, season to taste, and serve with a border of boiled rice.

SOUFFLE OF LOBSTER. (Nice.)

Blend 1 ounce of butter with 2 ounces of flour; add 1 gill of milk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and


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1/2 pound of cooked and chopped lobster, then the yolks of 3 eggs, 6 oysters, chopped fine, a gill of cream, whipped stiff, and the beaten whites of 3 eggs. Pour into a buttered mould, steam like a custard for 1/2 an hour, turn out carefully and cover with a white sauce, containing mushrooms.

LOBSTER, EN CASSEROLE. (Southern France.)

Boil, pick, and cut up a fine large lobster; fry it in olive oil, adding onions and carrots, 2 of each, a bayleaf, some thyme, parsley, and half a glass of sherry or white wine. Be sure to rub the casserole or earthen saucepan with a bit of garlic before putting in the ingredients. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring it, then take out the lobster, add 1/2 cup of stewed tomatoes to the sauce and as much consommé. Cook for 10 minutes longer, put in the lobster, and serve in the casserole with slices of toast and seasoning to taste.

LOBSTER OMELETTE. (Paris.)

Chop finely the meat of a lobster, 2 pounds, add 1 pint of white broth, thyme, bayleaf, and parsley, the juice of a lemon, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. Cook for 10 minutes, season it, and press through a fine sieve. Have ready a light omelette, and pour this across it before folding it and around it, when folded, on the dish.

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LOBSTER, ST. STEPHAN.

Cook and cut up a large lobster, sauté it in olive oil, add parsley, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped onion. Add cup of white stock and 1 tablespoonful of Chablis, cook 10 minutes, and serve hot.

LOBSTER AND OYSTER PLANT MOUSSE. (Paris.)

Boil, pound, and press through a sieve the flesh of a lobster, add 1 tablespoonful of mayonnaise, the same of melted aspic jelly, and 1/2 pint of whipped cream. Pour into a border mould and set on ice to harden. Boil and cut into dice sufficient salsify to fill the centre when turned out, and mix it with some mayonnaise dressing. Serve cold.

LOBSTER. (Mariner's Style.)

Boil and cut into dice the meat of a lobster, add 2 onions, chopped fine, a bit of garlic, 2 ounces of butter, and then 1/2 cup of white stock, mixed with the yolks of two eggs. Add parsley, salt, and pepper, cook carefully 20 minutes, add a spoonful of lemon juice and a glass of white wine. Serve In the casserole in which it was cooked.

SHRIMPS (as cooked in Nancy).

Parboil, cut into dice, and fry 18 shrimps with 1/2 ounce of butter and 1 ounce of chopped ham.


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Add 1 cup of white broth, parsley, salt and pepper, and the juice of a lemon. Pour into a dish over squares of toast.

LOBSTER (à la Careme).

Boil, pick, and mince the meat of a large lobster, add salt, pepper, lemon juice, or a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 2 ounces of butter, as much flour, and 1/2 cup each of cream and stock. Cover with bread-crumbs and bake 1/2 hour.

BOUILLABAISSE. (Marseilles.)

Cut up into pieces and remove the bones from 3 pounds of fish,--say, one pound each of cod, halibut, and bluefish, although any fresh fish in due proportion will answer. Add 6 shrimps or 1 lobster or 1 crabs, cooked, and cut into large pieces, 1/2 pint of olive oil; fry lightly, and add 1 lemon and 2 tomatoes, 1 onion and 1 carrot, all sliced, 1 pinch of saffron, --as much as lies on a ten-cent piece,--a bayleaf, and some parsley. A clove of garlic is used, unless thecasserole is rubbed with it before cooking. Stir for 10 minutes; add 1 cup of stock and 1 glass of white wine or cider. Cook 15 minutes longer, pour out into a bowl, place slices of toast in the casserole, and return the fish and vegetables, allowing the sauce


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sufficient time to soak into the toast, and adding salt and pepper to taste.

XMAS CARP (as cooked in Poland and Italy on December 24, for supper).

Clean and scale the fish, --any white fish may be substituted, --cut it into slices, and fry it with onion, parsley, thyme, salt, and pepper. Add 1/2 pint of white wine to every 2 pounds of fish and cook for 10 minutes, then put the dish in the oven and bake for half an hour or until tender. Add 2 lemons sliced, and a cupful each of chopped almonds and currants. Cook long enough to soften the latter, adding stock if not moist enough, and serve in a deep dish.

FISH (as cooked in Russia Easter Eve).

Chop sufficient cold fish, boiled previously in water and vinegar, with onion, carrot, and herbs, then freed from bones and skin. Mix with as much mayonnaise dressing as will cover and set on ice 1 hours. Melt some aspic jelly and whip it very stiff, and fill a mould shaped like a cross in alternate layers of jelly and fish. Set aside to harden and turn it out on a bed of lettuce leaves garnished with a border of whole hard-boiled eggs. The originality of this quaint dish lies entirely in


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the shape of the mould, which must be a square or Greek-cross shape.

MATELOTE OF FISH. (Normandy.)

Skin and slice 2 pounds of fresh fish, either all one sort or several kinds mixed. Fry it in a ounces of butter with 20 white and very small onions till brown. Add 1 1/2 ounces of flour, salt, and pepper, 6 sliced mushrooms, and a spoonful of lemon juice, a bunch of herbs, 1/2 pint of red wine, and 1/2 pint of consomme. Cook 1/2 an hour, season it to taste, and serve in the casserole. It is a sort of northern bouillabaisse.

BOURRIDE. (Marseilles.)

Cut up and fry 2 1/2 pounds of salt water fish, with a crab, a bit of garlic, parsley, thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, a glass of hot water, and a glass of cider. Boil 20 minutes, add a tablespoonful of flour an ounce of butter, the juice of a lemon, the yolks of 1 eggs, pepper, and salt. Add the outside of a green pepper, chopped fine, and the pods of 2 ochra. Cook ten minutes longer, carefully, and serve in the same dish, hot.

BRANDADE. (MONTPELLIER.)

Soak for three days 1 1/2 pounds of salt cod renewing the water often. Drain it, cover with


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hot water, and boil 15 minutes. Remove the skin and bones and chop the fish, then fry it with 2 chopped onions and 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Cook 10 minutes, pound this all well, return to the fire and add the juice of 2 lemons, a tablespoonful of oil, and twice as much cream. Beat and stir and season it, adding mace and parsley and the juice of one more lemon. When perfectly smooth and well cooked, pile it on a plate and serve with a white sauce containing oysters, mushrooms, and shrimps.

CARP (as cooked in Coblentz).

Clean and cut into strips 1 pounds of carp or any white fish, add one glass of claret, 1/2 pint of consomme, salt, pepper, some parsley, thyme, and a clove, 1 cup of chopped mushrooms, 1 carrot, and 1 onion, shredded. Cover, and let it simmer for an hour. Add a tablespoonful of capers and serve, poured on slices of toast.

MACKEREL, BAKED IN CREAM. (Austria.)

Skin, bone, and slice a large fish into four pieces, season it and fry it in butter. Drain it and keep warm. Mix 1/2 pint of white stock or Bechamel sauce with two tablespoonfuls of sherry and the yolk of an egg. Stir over the fire, pour it over


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the fish, adding chopped parsley, onion, and bread-crumbs over the top of the dish. Bake till brown.

MACKEREL. (Germany.)

Clean and score across the back a large fresh fish, add two cups of hot water, a teaspoonful of salt, an onion, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Cook 40 minutes, drain it, reduce the sauce, strain it, and add 1 dozen capers; cook a few minutes longer and pour over the fish.

PICKLED MACKEREL. (Germany.)

Skin, bone, and cut into pieces 4 pounds of fresh mackerel, put it in layers in a stone crock, sprinkling herbs, pepper and salt and bayleaves between each, using 1 tablespoonful, cut fine, of all the herbs. Press down, cover with vinegar, and seal air-tight. Bake in a moderate oven 6 hours. It will keep several days in a cool place. Good for supper.

STAR-GAZY PIE. (Cornwall.)

Clean and scale some fresh mackerel, season it with parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, and bay-leaves. Butter a dish and line it with bread-crumbs, put in the fish, in layers, with herbs and crumbs between. Add the yolks of 4 eggs beaten


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with 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, cover with a layer of thinly cut bacon and a very light pie-crust. Bake 2 hours and serve, hot or cold.

FINDON HADDIE SAVORY. (Scotland.)

Dip the fish in boiling water, and take out all the bones and skin. Pound the meat in a mortar, add a little pepper, salt, and a spoonful of lemon juice, also 1 ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of cream. Cook and stir until thick and pour over slices of toast buttered and dipped for an instant in hot water. For supper or lunch.

TROUT (as cooked in Geneva).

Broil the trout, first dipping them in olive oil, lemon juice, onion juice, and seasoning. Make a sauce of 1/2 pint of consommé, a tablespoonful of claret, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. Cook and strain and pour over the fish.

BAKED SHAD (as cooked in France).

Butter a large, flat earthenware dish, lay the shad, split open, upon it, and cover with a forcemeat made of the roes, some bread-crumbs, parsley, bay-leaf, thyme, butter, and 6 mushrooms, all chopped and mixed together. Sew the fish up and bake


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for an hour, basting it with 1/2 pint of white stock, seasoned with lemon juice, sherry, onion, and carrot.

BROILED FISH (as cooked in Normandy).

Clean and split a large fish, such as flounder, bluefish, or mackerel, cover it with a mixture of sweet oil, vinegar, chopped onion, herbs, salt, and pepper. Set in a cold place for an hour, turning it several times. Drain it, dip it in bread-crumbs, then in egg and more crumbs, and broil till brown. Serve with Tartare sauce.

SOLE, à la Normande.

Make a forcemeat of bread, herbs, oysters, and truffles, mushrooms, and 1/4 pound of ham, all cut up and mixed with 1/2 cup of white stock. Stuff the fish with this, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, dot it with butter and bread-crumbs. Lay it in a dish, pour over it 1/2 pint of white stock, mixed with some parsley, pepper, and salt. Bake 40 minutes, basting often, and serve in the same dish, adding more stock, if too dry.

FISH SALAD (as made in the Tyrol).

Remove skin and bonesand flake 1 cups of cold boiled fish, add 1/2 pound of cold boiled shrimps, cut into dice, mix with 4 tablespoonfuls


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of vinegar, a little pepper, 1/2 teaspoonful of celery seed, and 2 tablespoonfuls of capers. Stir well and add 1 green pepper, cut up finely and free from seeds, and then enough mayonnaise dressing to make it moist. Serve in a bed of lettuce leaves with bits of aspic jelly and 2 hard-boiled eggs sliced and arranged as a garnish.

FISH PIES.

These are served at all of the English and French inns, and are not hard to make at home.

Dip 1/2 pound of stale bread-crumbs in enough milk to moisten, add 1 ounce of butter, a little salt and pepper, and beat until smooth over the fire. Add parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf, and take off to cool. Skin and bone 2 good flounder, cod, bass, or mackerel; scrape and pound half of the flesh and add it to the bread mixture. Season the rest, cut into slices, and arrange it in layers in a deep dish, with forcemeat of the fish and bread between, and dropping little bits of butter here and there. Have ready 1 cup of fish broth or consomme or veal stock, rather thick and well seasoned; pour it over and arrange slices of bacon on top, under a lid of fine puff paste. Leave a hole in the middle for the steam to escape, cover with a layer of buttered paper, and bake 3 hours in a slow oven.


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Take off the paper, and when the pie is brown, fill the hole with 1/2 cup of stock, mixed with a tablespoonful of sherry or white wine, and serve cold.

MACKEREL PIE. (Scotland.)

Make a forcemeat of the roes and some parsley, onion, butter, bread-crumbs, thyme, sweet marjoram, and the yolk of an egg. Cut the fish into strips and roll them with a filling of this. Arrange neatly in a deep dish, pour in 1/2 cup of stock and cover with a layer of mashed potatoes. Bake 3/4 of an hour and serve hot.

FRIED OYSTERS. (Holstein style.)

Open and drain 2 dozen fine large oysters, dry in a napkin, and keep the juice for soup. Mix some salt and pepper, 1/2 a cup of flour, a little butter, and the yolk of 2 eggs. Dip each oyster in this, covering well, then in a mixture of equal parts bread-crumbs and grated cheese. Fry them in boiling fat, drain and garnish with parsley and lemon.

SALMON CROQUETTES. (A Swedish recipe.)

Fresh salmon is very fine and plentiful in Norway and Sweden, but canned fish may be used instead. Cook 1/2 pint of white stock with 1/2 ounce of butter, yolks of two eggs, parsley, pepper


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and salt, onion juice, and then add sufficient chopped salmon, free from bones, and stir well. Let it cool, make into croquettes, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry till brown. Drain carefully and serve with Tartare sauce and border of parsley.

SALMON (as cooked along the Rhine).

Cut up 3 shallots, 2 parsley roots, and a bunch of the leaves, with thyme, a bayleaf, a clove, and 3 carrots. Fry these in butter and add 1/2 pint of white wine. Lay the fish in a flat dish, pour this over, cover closely, and stew it until tender. Take out the fish, strain the sauce, thicken it with flour, butter, and a cup of rich milk, then pour it over the fish and serve with parsley and lemon. The fish may be cut into cutlets before cooking, if the kettle is too small to hold it.

SALMON (as cooked in Provincial France).

Cut 1 1/2 pounds of salmon into four pieces, season to taste, add juice of a lemon and 1 ounce of butter. Cook it in a pan and add 1 dozen oysters, 6 shrimps, cut into dice, and 1 cup of white stock thickened with flour and butter. Stir for 10 minutes, or until the oysters and shrimps are done; add the yolk of 1 egg, a tablespoonful of sherry, and arrange the fish on a dish, with the sauce poured over.

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BAKED SHAD ROE. (Northern France.)

Skin two large roes and lay them on an earthen plate which has been sprinkled with bread-crumbs, chopped onion, and parsley, 3 mushrooms minced, and some butter. Cover with more of these, and pour over 1 cup of white stock mixed with a spoonful of sherry. Bake in the oven 1/2 an hour, drain off the sauce, strain it, and thicken it with flour and butter. Pour it over the fish once more, cover the top with bread-crumbs, and sprinkle lemon juice here and there. Brown it in the oven and serve hot.

MACKEREL (as cooked in the Tyrol).

Wash and dry 2 fresh mackerel, put in a saucepan with salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, and chopped onion, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cider. Cover and cook 1/2 hour, add 1 cup of veal broth, thickened with flour and butter, the yolk of an egg, and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. Strain this sauce, pour over the fish again, dot with bread-crumbs, and bake a light brown. Serve in the same dish in which it is baked. Earthen dishes are always used abroad, red, striped with yellow or black.

TURBAN OF SOLE. (Paris.)

Trim two large soles or flounders into cutlets, fill them with a forcemeat of fish, bread, herbs,


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and egg, roll and arrange in a ring-shaped mould. Cook like a custard, in a pan of water, for 1 hour or they can be tied securely with thread and cooked in stock. Drain the fillets, take off the string, arrange in a circle and fill the centre with a sauce made of 1 cup of white broth, 1 cup of oyster juice, some butter and flour, 1 dozen oysters, yolks of two eggs, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley.

RICHMOND EEL PIE. (England.)

Skin, clean, and cut up 2 large eels, wash and dry them and cook with 1 ounce of butter, 2 table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 1 minced onion, a bayleaf, salt, pepper, rind of a lemon, 1 glass of sherry, and a cup of consomme. Cook until the eels are tender, strain the sauce and thicken it with flour and butter. Line a deep dish with pastry, arrange the eels in it and pour the sauce over, with sliced hard-boiled eggs on top. Then cover with a lid of thin pastry, ornamented with leaves of the same, glaze with yolk of an egg and bake it 1 hour in a moderate oven, serve hot or cold.

RECIPE FOR FRYING FISH. (New Haven)

Wash and dry the fish, sprinkle it well with flour, salt, and pepper, then dip it in egg and bread-crumbs


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or coarse oatmeal, and fry in a deep pan of boiling fat.

CRABS AND TOMATOES. (Provence.)

Boil enough crabs and chop fine; to each pound add 1/3 as much bread-crumbs, 1/2 pint of tomato sauce, rind and juice of 1/2 a lemon, salt, pepper, parsley, and 1 glass of Chablis or sherry. Stir well and serve hot, with a border of toast or fried potatoes.

CRABS, STYLE OF SAINT LAWRENCE.

Saint Lawrence was that early martyr who was broiled for his faith, and French cooks commemorate his suffering somewhat strangely in naming and cooking this dish.

Chop 3/4 pound of shelled crabs, add 1/2 pint of white stock, a tablespoonful of sherry or lemon juice, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of grated cheese. Cook for 10 minutes, pour over slices of toast, and add more cheese, on top. Brown with a salamander or in a very hot oven.

OYSTERS IN CREAM. (German fashion.)

Drain 24 oysters, add the juice of a lemon, 1 ounce of butter, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Melt 1 ounce of butter, add 2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 1/2 pint of white stock, a spoonful of


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mushroom ketchup, and cook and stir 5 minutes. Blend the yolks of 2 eggs with 1/2 cup of cream or milk, add to the sauce and pour over the oysters.

OYSTERS IN FORCEMEAT. (A French recipe.)

Cook 18 oysters with 1 ounce of butter, 1/2 cup of juice, pepper, and salt, for 10 minutes. Have ready 6 ounces of forcemeat made of equal parts of chopped chicken and bread-crumbs, an egg, herbs, a spoonful of butter and seasoning, mixed with enough milk or stock to make a paste. Dip each oyster in this, covering thickly, then in bread-crumbs and egg, and fry brown. Serve with a white sauce and border of parsley.

SCALLOPS (as cooked in Brest, France).

Fry 1 pint of scallops in 1 ounce of butter, add 2 minced onions, a tablespoonful of flour, and 1/2 pint of the juice, also the yolks of 4 eggs and 1/2 cup of bread-crumbs. Bake in small shells.

TROUT. (Provincial France.)

Clean, wash, and dry 6 fine trout, add salt, pepper, a carrot, a bay leaf, and some thyme, and 1 pint of water mixed with 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. Cook for 15 minutes, drain the fish and cover them with a sauce made of 1/2 pint stewed tomatoes, 2


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truffles, 6 mushrooms, and an onion, cut up, 12 olives and some parsley. This must boil 15 minutes before straining it over the fish and using the olives as a garnish along the edge. Serve at once, very hot.

SMELTS (as cooked in Dresden).

Clean and dry 18 large smelts, take out the bones and stuff them with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, butter, chopped oysters, and mushrooms, seasoned to taste. Put in a dish, cover with some chopped onion, the juice of a lemon, 1/2 pint of milk or white stock, and 1 ounce of butter. Bake for 1/2 hour. Serve with a border of parsley and more sauce made of flour, butter, milk, or stock, in a bowl, separately.

COLLARED EELS. (Germany.)

Clean and split and bone one large eel, dust it with salt and pepper and set aside. Chop 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1 beet, a tablespoonful of capers, 2 pickles, 1 onion, and 3 anchovies, with salt and parsley. Cover the eels with this, tie in a cloth, and cook for 1/2 hour in half water and half vinegar and a bayleaf. Drain, untie, and put in a mould with sufficient melted aspic jelly and turn out on a dish, with mayonnaise, when cold.

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RAGOÛT OF EELS. (Normandy.)

Cut up and fry in butter 1 1/2 pounds of eels, add 1 glass of white wine or cider, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. After 10 minutes add 1/2 pint of white stock, 6 mushrooms, 12 oysters, 6 forcemeat tails (made of fish, chicken, or veal), and 6 shrimps, all cooked. Stir, and add the yolks of 2 eggs and serve at once.

SALT COD (as cooked on the coast of Spain).

Soak and parboil 2 pounds of cod. Serve with a sauce of tomatoes, onions, green peppers, olive oil and stock, in proper proportions, with herbs and seasoning, then arrange with a border of fried potatoes.

COD AND OYSTER PIE. (England.)

Flake and remove the bones from cold cooked fresh fish, add to each cupful 6 oysters, 1/2 cup of stock, mixed with a tablespoonful of oyster juice. Season to taste, pour into a dish and bake, with a thin crust of paste on top, or a layer of mashed potatoes.

FORCEMEAT FOR FILLING FISH CUTLETS. (Paris.)

Chop finely, 2 shrimps, 6 oysters, I tablespoonful of parsley, 6 small mushrooms, and the rind of


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a lemon. Add 1 cup of bread-crumbs, a little nutmeg, salt, pepper, and the yolk of an egg. Beat and stir well. If not needed at once, it may be put on ice for a day or two, but it is better made fresh.

FRENCH PANNED OYSTERS.

Drain fifty oysters, add 2 ounces of butter, mixed in a pan or casserole with 2 teaspoonfuls of flour and 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Stir, blend, and season. When the oysters begin to curl, add the yolks of 2 eggs and, still stirring, pour over slices of toast.

SAUCE FOR CUTLETS, CROQUETTES, OR FISH.

Beat 2 eggs with salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon. Add it to 1/2 pint of boiling milk, stir in a pan of hot water until it thickens, adding 1 tablespoonful of parsley. This is a very useful and economical recipe.

DUTCH SAUCE.

This is the same as above, made richer. Stir and blend over the fire 1/2 pint of melted butter and the yolks of four eggs, set in another pan, like a custard. Do not boil, merely keep hot, or it will curdle. Add salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a tiny pinch of nutmeg.

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BECHAMEL SAUCE. (Rich.)

Blend 2 ounces of butter with 1 1/2 ounces of flour, add 1 pint of white stock (preferably chicken), and 6 chopped mushrooms. Stir for 20 minutes, add 1/2 pint of hot cream and the juice of a lemon, strain it and cook 5 minutes longer. Plain. Chop 1 carrot, 1 piece of celery, 1 small onion, 1 bay-leaf, salt, and pepper, and cook with 2 ounces of butter and 1/2 ounce of flour, stirring constantly. Add 1 pint of very rich milk and cook 10 minutes longer; strain for use. Bechamel sauce is served with chicken or delicate entrées; it has no equal for the purpose for which it was invented over a century ago.

TOMATO SAUCE (used for rich entrées and braised dishes).

Cook 1 ounce of butter with 1 ounce of chopped ham, 1 onion, 1 carrot, some parsley and a bay-leaf and a clove. Chop the onion and carrot. Cook for 5 minutes, then add 1/2 cup of consommé or melted beef extract, 1 cup of stewed tomatoes or 3 fresh ones, sliced, a tablespoonful of butter and flour, mixed; season to taste. Stir and cook 20 minutes, then press through a sieve.

VALENCIA SAUCE (for chicken or sweetbreads).

Chop 1 truffle, 3 mushrooms, and 3 slices of tongue, very finely; mix with 3 tablespoonfuls of


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boiled rice and a tablespoonful of stock. Stir and cook for 10 minutes, add 1/2 cup of stewed tomatoes and a tablespoonful of grated cheese. Cook until smooth and pour around or underneath the chicken, etc.

TARTARS SAUCE.

Make 1/2 pint of good mayonnaise with the yolk of a raw egg and the yolk of a hard-boiled one, adding a teaspoonful of French mustard, a tea-spoonful of lemon juice and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, after first blending 1/2 pint of olive oil with the two eggs. Add salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of chopped capers, the same of chopped chives, and half as much parsley and gherkins. These must all be minced and pounded as fine as possible. Stir well and press through a sieve. Serve with jellied fish, fried fish, or salads.

PRINCE OF WALES' SAUCE. (For Fish.)

Cook a handful of burnet, chervil, and parsley and tarragon leaves, in boiling water for five minutes. Drain and chop very fine, with 2 boned anchovies, yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, a pinch of mustard, and the yolk of a raw egg. Pound these to a paste, and add 1/4 pint of pure olive oil and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Strain for use.

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CHERRY SAUCE. (Germany. For pork or game.)

Wash, stone, and set aside 1 pound of ripe red cherries. Simmer the kernels, with water to cover 15 minutes. Then strain the water, add to it the cherries, 1 pint of water, 4 cloves, 1 glass of claret, 1 slice of stale bread, and enough sugar. Cook half an hour, press through a sieve, and re-boil it until rather thick. Serve hot.

GARLIC SAUCE. (Provence.)

Peel and chop 2 cloves of garlic; boil in 4 waters, drain, and chop fine. Add 1/2 pint of stock, a blending of flour and butter, yolk of I egg, and a pinch of salt. Strain before use, serve hot, with entrées.

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. (England. For mackerel.)

Trim and mash a pound of green gooseberries, add sugar to flavor, a spoonful of corn starch, and the juice of a lemon. Cook 10 minutes, add a pinch of cinnamon and a spoonful of butter, simmer until thick, and press through a sieve.

ORANGE SAUCE. (Spanish. For game.)

Parboil the outer yellow rind of 2 large oranges. Drain these, cut into thin strips, and add the juice and a glass of port wine and 1/2 cup of white stock. Cook ten minutes, strain, and then add salt and pepper, if desired. Serve, separately, in a bowl.

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MONTPELLIER BUTTER (for garnishing cold fish, jellies, or filling sandwiches).

Mix 1/2 pound of parsley, tarragon, watercress, and chives, in equal parts. Boil them one minute in hot water, drain and chop them very fine, with the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 3 anchovies, free from skin and bones, 1 tablespoonful each of capers and gherkins, chopped fine, a little onion juice, salt, and pepper. Pound these and add 1/2 pound of fresh butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice. Mix all well and press through a sieve. Set on ice until needed. It is usually pressed through a pastry tube, to form roses, along the edge of the dish, or on top of the fish.

ESSENCE OF HAM (used for flavoring sauces).

This will keep some time on ice. Chop 3 pounds of lean ham with 4 onions, 2 carrots, 2 parsnips, 4 mushrooms (or a tablespoonful of mushroom catchup), and add 1 ounce of butter, 3 truffles, 1 cup of veal stock, 1 clove, and some thyme and parsley. Stir, cover very closely, and simmer 1 hour. Strain it through a fine sieve. A tablespoonful will flavor a pint of sauce or as much soup.

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FAMILY CULLIS. (Old English recipe for foundation of sauces.)

Blend 1 tablespoonful each of flour and butter, add 1 cup of good consommé, a glass of white wine, some parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, and a bit of mace, also 3 mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Cook, covered, for 1/2 hour. Strain through a sieve. Will keep some time on ice, and useful for adding flavor to entrées or sauces.

CHIPOLATA GARNISH. (A Spanish recipe.)

In Spain chicken or sweetbread or any entrée is rendered attractive by the addition of Chipolata.

Cut up into neat pieces equal parts of carrots, chestnuts (parboiled and free from shell), mushrooms, turnips, and small sausages. Cover with consommé and cook until tender, adding a spoonful of sherry, pepper, and salt.

CARAMEL (for coloring soups).

French cooks keep a bottle of this on hand to use for gravies and soups which are too pale.

Stir 1/2 pound of sugar and a tablespoonful of water constantly over the fire until a rich brown, being very careful not to let it burn. Add 1 cup of water and a little salt and cook 10 minutes longer. Cool and strain it and bottle tightly in


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small bottles. Will keep a year, if corked, and in a cool place.

GREEN. (Coloring for Desserts.)

Red coloring may be made with cranberries, and yellow, with saffron. Clean and scald and drain and pound a quart of spinach. Press through a sieve, add 1/4 as much sugar, and boil it with the juice, 1/2 an hour.

FRENCH AROMATIC SEASONING.

Mix 1/4 ounce each of thyme, bayleaves, and laurel, sweet marjoram, and rosemary. Dry these in the oven, and reduce to powder. Add 1/2 ounce each of powdered nutmeg and cloves, a teaspoonful of black pepper, and as much salt. When all are well mixed, sift, and put into bottles closely corked, for use. A pinch of this improves the flavor of soups, entrées, sauces, etc., when fresh herbs are not at hand.

FRENCH SEASONING. (Another recipe.)

Dry and pound together 1 1/2 ounces of thyme, 1 ounce of bayleaves, the same of sweet basil and summer savory, and also of sweet marjoram. Add a teaspoonful each of pepper and salt, 1 ounce of cloves, 1 nutmeg, and 1/2 ounce of mace, rubbed with the rind of a lemon and a clove of garlic. Dry in the oven, and strain and bottle for use.

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TARRAGON VINEGAR.

This adjunct to flavoring sauces and salads can be had at the grocery stores, about thirty-five cents a pint bottle. But it is easily made at home if you buy tarragon plants from a large florist, and by planting them in the garden, or in boxes, the fresh leaves will be useful all summer, so that in the fall, before frost, what is left can be made into vinegar. This plan gives a constant supply for a year.

Gather the leaves on a dry day, wash them to remove insects, dry them, and after bruising them, adding about a pint to a quart of wine vinegar, add a tablespoonful each of chopped parsley and chives. Infuse for a week, strain it, and bottle closely.

ENGLISH RECIPE FOR FRYING FISH.

Wash the fish, dry it well, dust it thickly with flour. Beat an egg light, dip the fish carefully, then dip it in bread-crumbs. Fry in a deep pan, in butter, olive oil, or suet, very hot.

JEWISH RECIPE FOR FRYING FISH. (Prague.)

Mix 6 ounces of flour, a pinch of salt, yolk or one egg, and 1 ounce of olive oil, well together, add 1 gill of tepid water, set aside 1/2 hour in a


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cool place. Beat in the white of the egg, which has been beaten stiff, dip each fish in this, then in bread-crumbs, and fry in oil or fat, very hot. The Jews do not use butter for frying, as their religious laws forbid it, but they are, the world over, past masters of the art of frying, and especially in the older cities of Europe, where they have kept to the ancient modes of living.

POACHED EGGS. (Normandy.)

Fry an onion, 1/2 clove of garlic, - which may be omitted, - some parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf, in 1 ounce of butter. Add 1/2 pint of red wine (or cider), the same of consommé, or white stock, and cook until well blended. Add salt and pepper, strain it, and pour around 6 eggs, poached in vinegar and water, drained, and laid on toast, previously dipped in hot water to soften it. Garnish with parsley.

FRIED EGGS. (Marseilles.)

Fry four very fresh eggs in olive oil, drain them, add to the oil in the pan 1/2 cup of consommé, 1/2 a green pepper, chopped and free from seeds, and 6 mushrooms. Cook this carefully, and pour around the eggs.

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EGGS. (Carmelite Convent recipe.)

Butter a dish, pour into it a purée of asparagus tips, parboiled with herbs and seasoning, drained, mixed with a cup of cream, or white broth, and pressed through a sieve. Arrange this evenly, and break over it carefully four or more fresh eggs. Bake until the eggs are firm. This can also be made with a foundation, or mattress of spinach, or any other vegetable.

EGGS (à la Gruyère).

Melt 1/4 pound of grated Gruyère cheese with a teaspoonful of butter, 1 cup of chicken broth, some chopped onion and parsley, nutmeg, and salt. When well blended, add four well-beaten eggs, stir until firm, and serve on toast.

FONDUE. (Switzerland.)

Take as many eggs as there are people, add 1/3 of their weight in grated cheese, and 1/2 their weight in butter. Beat the eggs, white and yolks, together, add the cheese and butter, salt and pepper. Cook until it is thick, and pour into a deep dish. Add parsley if desired.

POACHED EGGS. (Roumania and Turkey.)

Make a purée of 1 pound of cooked and chopped calves' liver, 1 cup or less of stock, parsley, pepper,


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and salt. Put this through a sieve, arrange on a dish, as a bed for 6 poached eggs, and pour around a sauce made of stock, flavored with capers or tarragon vinegar.

EGGS (as cooked in Nuremberg).

Peel 4 hard-boiled eggs, dip them in batter, fry brown, dip and fry again, until twice the usual size. Serve with a sauce of tomatoes or on a bed of spinach, cooked and made into a paste.

FRIED EGGS (as cooked in Scotland).

Make a forcemeat of 1/2 cup of milk and equal parts of bread-crumbs and chopped ham, the yolk of an egg, and a little French mustard. Dip fried eggs in this, then fry again, and serve with a salad of watercress.

EGGS (as cooked in Lyons).

Peel and slice 6 hard-boiled eggs. Make a sauce of 2 large white onions, chopped fine, 1 ounce of butter, add 1/2 pint of stock, parsley and seasoning. Pour this over the eggs, in a border of fried potatoes.

FRIED EGGS. (Alsace-Lorraine.)

Wash and slice neatly 1 large cooked carrot; add 1 gill of white stock, a spoonful of butter,


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12 roasted and shelled chestnuts, and 2 sausages, sliced. Stir and cook 20 minutes, add salt, pepper, and a spoonful of sherry. Pour over the 10 fried eggs, with the vegetables around.

SPANISH OMELETTE.

Beat the whites and yolks of 6 eggs separately, and add salt, pepper, 1/2 tablespoonful of flour mixed with as much milk; pour into a buttered pan and cook till firm. Before folding it on a plate pour between the following sauce. 1 bayleaf, 1 onion, some parsley, 1 green pepper, free from seeds, 4 fresh mushrooms, a tablespoonful of ham, all chopped fine, and 1 lamb's kidney, sliced. Fry these in butter or olive oil, add 3 tomatoes, skinned, and 1 cup of consommé. Cook these 1/2 an hour before pouring in the omelette.

FRENCH OMELETTE.

Beat the whites of 5 eggs very stiff and set aside in a cool place. Beat the yolks well with salt, pepper, butter the size of a walnut, 2 table-spoonfuls of cream, a little nutmeg, 1/2 spoonful of onion juice, and 1 spoonful of chopped parsley. Add these lightly to the whites and cook in a hot, buttered pan. This makes a very tender, delicate omelette.

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CRUMB OMELETTE. (A German recipe.)

Beat the whites and yolks of 6 eggs separately, adding to the yolks 1 cup of cream blended with a tablespoonful of cornstarch and a cup of bread-crumbs. Stir, season with salt, pepper, and parsley and a little chopped onion, pour into a buttered pan and cook until it is brown before folding. Can be served with a purée of spinach or any vegetable made into a cream, or it can be made as an ordinary omelette, the bread being cut into dice and fried before adding, in the centre.

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> CHAPTER THREE - Meats and Entrées

ROAST LAMB (as cooked in Brittany).

BONE and stuff a fine leg of lamb, with a mixture of bread-crumbs, parsley, sweet marjoram, onion, and yolk of an egg. Cook it for 1 1/2 hours, pricking the skin first and rubbing it with garlic. Baste often with the drippings and one cup of stock added. Make a purée of 1 pint of boiled Lima beans, mashed with butter, seasoning, and white stock, pressed through a sieve. Put this on the dish, place the meat over it and pour the gravy, reduced and skimmed of fat, over all.

BRAISED SADDLE OF LAMB. (Normandy.)

Bone a saddle of lamb and fill it with a force-meat of bread-crumbs, onion, herbs, butter, egg, and 1/2 pound of chopped veal. Roll it, tie it, and lard the upper side with thin strips of pork. Put it in a pan with 1 pint of white stock, 2 onions, 1 carrot, some celery, parsley, and thyme. Cover with a tight lid and let it cook in the oven for 1 1/2 hours. Let it cool in the sauce, remove the fat from the latter, and reduce it by re-boiling. Dip the meat in some of the sauce and then in bread-crumbs,


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and brown it in the oven. Pour the sauce around, after straining it, and arrange a border of stuffed tomatoes or spinach or baked onions or potatoes, whichever is most convenient.

LEG of MUTTON. (Gascony style.)

The province of Gascony, in the south of France, is renowned for good cooking, just as Normandy is in the north.

Boil 2 cloves of garlic in several waters, to remove the crude taste, chop them with 6 boned anchovies, and rub the mixture into slits cut across the skin of a nice leg of mutton. Dredge the surface closely with bread-crumbs, put into a pan holding 1/2 pint of consommé and bake it 2 hours, basting it often with the sauce. Serve with a border of vegetables, or spaghetti, previously cooked and seasoned. The anchovies and garlic give a peculiar flavor much esteemed by those who like bourgeois cookery.

ROAST VEAL. (Italian method.)

Bone, stuff, and tie a nice loin of veal, put it in a pan with 2 ounces of butter, 1/2 cup of water, and salt and pepper, then roast it 2 hours, basting often. Drain it, dip it in half a cup of white stock mixed with the yolk of an egg and some parsley. Dust


View page [list of illustrations]



[Illustration: An illustration of a plate of leg of mutton with other side dishes.]




[Illustration: Two decorative oblong plates which, one filled with four cannelons and the other one filled with batons de jakob.]




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it thickly with bread-crumbs and grated cheese, and bake it or brown it with a salamander. Serve with a border of potato croquettes.

BREAST of VEAL. (A German recipe.)

Cut into pieces a fine breast of veal, add salt, pepper, 2 onions, and 1 carrots, sliced, some parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf. Add also sufficient water to cover, and cook, with a lid on the pan, 1 hour. Take out the veal, remove the bones from each piece, and dip it in butter and bread-crumbs. Broil these cutlets, and when brown, serve with a sauce of the gravy, strained and seasoned with a table-spoonful of vinegar and two tablespoonfuls of pickled and chopped gherkins.

ROAST LOIN of PORK. (Germany.)

Boil the pork until tender, then roast it in the oven with 3 onions, 3 carrots, sliced thin, parsley, thyme, and a clove. Baste with 1 cup of hot water or stock, and after half an hour strain and skim the gravy and reduce it by rapid boiling until there is barely enough to coat the surface of the meat. Dust it all over thickly with crumbs, and sprinkle a tiny bit of cinnamon here and there. Bake until brown and serve with cherry sauce.(See recipe.)

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ROAST PIG. (England.)

Clean and singe a fat young pig. Stuff it with a forcemeat of bread, 2 pounds of pork and 2 pounds of veal, sage, thyme, lemon-peel, some parsley, onion, salt, pepper, and mace, mixed with the yolk of an egg. Sew up the slit and set the pig on its feet, basting it with butter, until done.

ROAST GOOSE. (England, Michaelmas Day.)

Singe and clean a fat goose, stuff it with the liver chopped fine, 1 cup or more of bread-crumbs, 2 ounces suet, lemon peel, nutmeg, and onion, sage, parsley, salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. Baste it with butter, dredge it with flour till brown, and serve with apple sauce.

ROAST GOOSE (as cooked at Arles, Southern France).

Singe, clean, and truss a young fat goose. Stuff it with 4 onions, parboiled, 4 ounces of bread soaked in milk, 3 ounces butter, a tablespoonful of parsley, a little nutmeg grated, and 4 ounces of chestnuts, all chopped fine and well mixed. Add salt and pepper. The chestnuts must be, of course, roasted, blanched, and cut up. Put the goose in a pan with 1 carrot, some celery, parsley, sweet marjoram, 1 onion, and a clove. Braise it, or cook, closely covered, in its own steam, for


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2 hours. Take it out, strain, skim, and reduce the sauce and mix it with a cup of stewed and strained tomatoes. Heat it again and pour around the goose.

FILLET OF BEEF, MIGNONNE. (Paris.)

Broil a fine fillet of beef, dusting it first with salt, pepper, onion juice, and olive oil. When brown, pour around a sauce made of 1/2 cup of cream whipped stiff, with 2 tablespoonfuls of grated horse-radish, pepper, and salt. Garnish with sliced and fried bananas.

BROILED STEAK. (English chop-house recipe.)

Mix 1 tablespoonful of olive oil, a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of pepper. Rub this over the steak and set it aside with the sauce on it for 2 hours, in a cold place. Drain it, put it on a broiler, and sear it quickly, then cook it slowly, putting a few ashes over the hot fire, for about 10 minutes. When the meat looks puffy, but being careful to lose none of the juice, remove to a hot dish and place a bit of butter on top. Garnish with parsley.

HENRY IV.'S RECIPE FOR BOILED CHICKEN.

Henry the Fourth was that beloved king of France who said that he wanted the poor man to


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have a fowl in a casserole every Sunday-since the peasants were terribly poor and taxed before that time. He was a jolly fellow and came from a part of France famous for good cooking.

Clean a fat hen, singe it, and then chop the liver with 1 cup of bread-crumbs or more, if needful, 1/2 pound of ham, 1/2 cup of milk, 6 chestnuts and 6 truffles, nutmeg, parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, and a grating of garlic or onion juice. Add the yolks of two eggs. Now fill the belly, the crop, and the cavities of the legs and wings, which must be boned and all tied firmly. Brown it in butter, add 1 carrots, 2 onions, sliced, 1/2 cup of rice, and a pint of water. Cover very closely and simmer for 1 hour. Serve with the sauce poured around or in the same dish in which it was cooked. Any one who has tried this will admit that it has a superior flavor.

CHICKEN ROYAL (invented for one of the early queens of France).

Bone a large fat chicken or a capon, fill it with a forcemeat of bread, herbs, mushrooms, eggs, and onion, seasoned and chopped. Truss it, lard it with bacon, and cover it with oiled paper. Bake in a pint of consommé, basting often. When tender, take off the paper, let it brown, reduce


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and strain the sauce, and serve with a purée of chestnuts, boiled, shelled, pounded, flavored with stock, and strained.

CHICKEN À LA MARENGO (invented for Napoleon, the night of the battle).

Joint and fry a tender chicken in 4 spoonfuls of olive oil, with three shallots, a clove of garlic, a bayleaf, some parsley, and thyme. When brown, take out and keep warm. Add to the oil 1 pint of white stock and the yolk of an egg. Stir until thick, strain, and pour over the chicken. Serve with a border of poached eggs, on strips of toast.

ROAST CHICKEN. (Paris.)

Clean, stuff, and roast a fine fowl, larding it with bits of bacon, and basting with 1 cup of consommé. Strain the sauce, add 1 onion, some parsley, and the livers, chopped fine, a cup of bread-crumbs and the juice of an orange. Boil, strain again, and serve with a salad of watercress.

CHICKEN (as cooked in Monte Carlo).

Melt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in an earthen dish or casserole with 1 carrot, 3 onions, sliced, 2 bayleaves, salt, pepper, and some thyme. Add a


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young fat fowl, cut into joints, and let it get brown. Then add 1 pint of consommé and cover, air tight; cook 3/4 of an hour; it must simmer all that time. If the fowl is old, it will take longer to cook it. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, a dozen potato balls fried in butter, a dozen button mushrooms, and some chopped parsley. Let it cook 10 minutes more, and serve in the same dish, or the charm of it will be lost.

FRIED CHICKEN (as cooked in Vienna).

Clean and cut up a fat chicken. Cover it for 3 hours with a mixture of lemon juice and olive oil, parsley, a bayleaf, and seasoning. Drain, dip each piece in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry brown. Mix 1 cup of white stock with 1 cup of rich milk, the yolk of an egg, and 10 small mushrooms. Season and cook carefully and pour around the chicken, first adding a little chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon to the sauce.

CHICKEN (as cooked in Spain and Portugal).

Clean and cut up a fat fowl, fry it in 2 ounces of butter with 1 ounce of ham and an onion, chopped fine. Add 1 quart of consommé, 1 pint of stewed tomatoes, 2 dozen bits of ochra, 1 cup


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of rice, and 1 green pepper, free from seeds and sliced. Season and cook, closely covered, for 1 1/2 hours.

CHICKEN, STEWED (as cooked in Hungary).

Clean and truss a fat fowl; fill it with bread-crumbs, onion, herbs, and yolk of an egg. Tie the breast with slices of lemon and salt pork, then wrap in oiled paper. Add 1 onion, 1 clove, and some parsley and 1 cup of white stock, or enough to cover it. Cook, covered, 1 hour. Strain the sauce, add 1 cup of hot cream, a pinch of paprika, some butter, the yolk of an egg, and some parsley. Pour around the chicken and serve with rice.

FRIED CHICKEN (as cooked in Florence).

Cut up a fat fowl and parboil it in 1 pint of white stock. Drain it, reduce the stock, and add the yolks of 2 eggs and the juice of a lemon, and strain it. Dip the chicken in the sauce, then in crumbs and grated cheese, and fry brown. Serve the rest of the sauce in a bowl.

CHICKEN À LA CRÉCI. (Flanders.)

Chop 1/2 pound of bacon, fry it with 12 tiny white onions, 12 button mushrooms, 2 carrots, and 6 chestnuts; cut into dice in 2 ounces butter. Add a large chicken, which has been cut up and cooked


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for 1/2 hour in some broth. Add also salt and pepper, a blade of mace, and a glass of white wine or sherry. Cook, covered, for 40 minutes and serve hot.

CHICKEN EN MATELOTE. (Normandy.)

Joint a nice chicken and fry it in butter. Add 6 small onions and a carrot, sliced, 6 small mushrooms and 6 parsnips, cut into dice, parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, salt, and enough stock to cover. Simmer in a closed pot for 1/2 hour. Strain the sauce and add to it 1 anchovy, cut up, 1 teaspoonful of capers, and 1 glass of claret. Return it to the fowl, cook 20 minutes longer, and serve with slices of toast.

CHICKEN CUTLETS. (A recipe of Provence.)

Chop very fine the meat of a fowl, to make 2 cupfuls; it must be cooked first. Add 2 ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and 1/2 cup of rich milk or cream. Divide into balls, flatten like a chop, dip in egg or bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Arrange on a dish, with tomato sauce.

CUTLETS OF CHICKEN (invented for one of the French monarchs).

Cut up the meat of 1/2 a chicken, - that cooked in the soup will answer best, - add 6 mushrooms,


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and 1/2 ounce cooked and chopped beef tongue. Fry these in 2 ounces of butter, with 2 teaspoonfuls of chopped onion and 1 ounce of flour. Add, next, 1 pint of chicken broth, and cook until a smooth paste, stirring often. Add yolks of 2 eggs, juice of a lemon, some parsley, and salt. If too thin, pour off, by straining, half the sauce, and let it harden in a pan. Mould into cutlets and dip each in the sauce, then in crumbs. Fry in butter or lard and serve in a circle, with the sauce diluted with 1/2 cup of boiling milk.

CANNELONS OF CHICKEN. (Marseilles.)

This is a combination of croquette and ravioli, which is a popular dish in Italy. As we go south in France, approaching Spain or Italy, we find borrowed traits of cookery.

Chop fine 1 cup of cooked chicken, mix with a spoonful each of flour and butter, 2 spoonfuls of cream, the yolk of an egg, salt, and pepper, and some parsley. Make into a thick paste. Roll out some fine puff paste very thin; cut it into squares of four inches, and filling with the above, fold and pinch the edges. Fry or bake them until a light brown. Drain, serve in a pile, with sauce or parsley.

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CANNELONS. (Another recipe.)

Chop equal parts of cooked chicken and tongue with a spoonful of chopped ham, some cream, egg, butter, and herbs, as before. Moisten with sufficient sauce or stock. Roll puff paste very thin, spread evenly with the mixture, and roll like a jelly cake. Lay these on a baking dish, glaze them with yolk of egg, and bake until brown. Serve in same dish.

TRUFFLED CAPON (served in France, Xmas Day).

Singe, clean, and stuff a fine fat fowl with a forcemeat of 1 pound of truffles, sliced, 2 onions, salt, pepper, a bayleaf, some thyme and a bit of garlic, and 2 pounds of cooked and chopped chestnuts, peeled and boiled in stock. Lard it with bacon and roast it; serve with a cream sauce in which mushrooms and oysters are cooked. An elegant affair but costly.

TURKEY MARQUISE. (Paris.)

Cut the white meat of a boiled turkey into strips 2 by 4 inches. Dip each in a forcemeat, covering well, made of 6 ounces of bread-crumbs soaked in milk, 4 ounces of tongue, and 6 oysters, cut fine; add 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock,


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pepper, salt, and 2 eggs. This must be well beaten, seasoned, and pressed through a sieve. Place in a buttered pan and bake 10 minutes until brown. Arrange carefully on a dish, in a circle, and in the centre pour some Brussels sprouts cooked in white sauce and some sauce poured over. Around the edge arrange a purée of chestnut, and let it steam, with a plate over all, 20 minutes. Serve in the same dish.

GALANTINE OF TURKEY. (Montpellier.)

Montpellier is a French town known far and wide for its ways of cooking cold meat or game in jelly or salad, served in a mould and often garnished, with mayonnaise or Tartare sauce.

Clean, bone, and stuff a turkey with a forcemeat of equal parts bread, veal, ham, and tongue, adding herbs, onion, yolks of eggs. Tie the fowl in a cloth and cook it for four hours in sufficient stock to cover it. Let it cool, put in a mould with melted aspic jelly, decorating it with sliced truffles, hard-boiled eggs sliced, and capers. When cold and firm, turn out and serve in slices.

STEWED CHICKEN. (Germany.)

Clean and cut up a fowl, cook it gently in 1 1/2 pints of white broth until tender. Take out the


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chicken, skim and strain and reduce the sauce by rapid boiling, add 1 ounce of chopped almonds, pounded, in 1/2 pint of milk, seasoned with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, pour over the chicken. Serve with a border of boiled rice.

CREAM of CHICKEN WITH POACHED EGGS. (An old convent recipe and used still in provincial France as a Lenten breakfast dish.)

Mince and pound the best part of a cooked fowl, add salt and pepper, and enough milk or white stock to make a paste when pressed through a sieve. Cook and stir over the fire, pour it on a dish and, arrange 6 poached eggs, with a border of parsley, on top.

KIDNEY AND MUSHROOMS. (France.)

Soak, parboil, and cut up a kidney, fry it in 2 ounces of butter or soup fat, add salt, pepper, an onion, chopped, and 12 button mushrooms, some parsley, and 1/2 pint of consommé, also a tablespoonful of white wine or sherry. Cook and stir 10 minutes, and serve on toast.

KIDNEY AND OYSTER PUDDING. (England.)

Clean, parboil, and slice 4 lamb's kidneys, add 1 pint of oysters and their juice, some butter, salt,


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pepper, and parsley. Cook and stir until tender, then make a batter as for pudding, roll it out and cover a bowl, lining it first with this, and filling with the oysters and kidney. Tie a cloth over all, and boil it about an hour, drain it, and serve with white sauce. Or the batter can be boiled, then slit open and filled with the oysters, etc. This way makes the kidneys and oysters more tender. Add the yolk of an egg to the gravy before pouring it in.

CASPACHO. (A national dish of Spain.)

Mince a large white onion, add 1 fine cucumber sliced, and 3 tomatoes cut up. Put in layers in a bowl, dust with salt, pepper, parsley, and breadcrumbs, adding oil and vinegar as for salad. There must be plenty of the latter, and the whole served ice-cold. This is the most popular summer dish in Spain.

BACALAO. (Spain.)

Soak and parboil 1 pound of salt cod, mix it, in flakes, with 1/2 pint of tomato sauce, made of stewed tomatoes, an onion chopped fine and fried in a tablespoonful of olive oil, a pinch of cinnamon, salt, and pepper. Bake this In an earthen dish with slices of bread and butter over the top.

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COULIBAC. (Russia.)

Make a paste as for baba pudding or Savarin, and roll it very thin. Cut into a large square, fill it with a forcemeat of veal, rice, eggs, herbs, butter, stock, and mushrooms, and roll it up like jelly cake. Dust the top with crumbs, and bake it 1 hour. Serve with hot wine sauce, in slices.

BUONBOCCONI. (Genoa.)

Steep 1 pound of beef marrow, drain, chop, and pound it, and press through a sieve. Add 5 ounces of chopped candied peel, and citron, mixed; beat these with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and the zest of an orange, and the yolks of 2 eggs. Put a spoonful between two circles of puff paste, and bake them in a hot oven. Serve in a mound, with a good sauce.

DOLMAS. (Greece and Turkey.)

Chop fine a sufficient quantity of cold cooked lamb or mutton, add an equal amount of boiled rice, season to taste, and add as much milk or white stock, blended with the yolk of an egg, to make a thick paste. Fill lettuce leaves with this, roll them up and cook in water or a little stock for l/2 hour. Drain them, arrange on a dish, and pour a sauce


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over them of milk, yolk of egg, parsley, and the juice of a lemon.

QUEEN'S TIDBITS. (France.)

Make a good puff paste, roll it very thin, cut into circles and put two together with a filling as for chicken croquettes, and bake in a hot oven. Sweetbreads or mushrooms, mixed with stock, may be used instead of chicken. These are dainty morsels, but very rich fare.

MACEDOINE IN ASPIC. (Normandy.)

Make 1 quart of good aspic jelly, and while yet liquid, line a fancy mould with a part of it. Fill the centre with a pretty arrangement of equal parts of cooked and sliced sweetbreads, tongue, liver, mushrooms, truffles, and sausage. Serve cold, turned out on a dish, with mayonnaise dressing. The more meats used, the better.

BRAISED QUAILS. (Maison d'or, Paris.)

Pick, clean, and split 6 quails. Roast them for 4 minutes, then put them in a casserole with 1 carrot, and 1 onion, sliced, 1 ounce of butter, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, and 3 sliced green peppers, freed from seeds. Stir for 5 minutes, then add, over the fire, 1 pint of tomato sauce, 1/2


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glass of sherry, and 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup or sauce. Cover and cook for 10 minutes more in the oven, then serve in the casserole.

KIDNEY STEW. (Baden-Baden.)

Soak, parboil, and slice a fine calf's kidney. Fry it in 2 ounces of butter or dripping, adding salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoonfuls each of chopped truffles and mushrooms, and 1 tablespoonful of sherry, also parsley. Cook for 10 minutes more, serve with a border of fritters made according to recipe given elsewhere.

LAMB CHOPS. (Monte Carlo.)

Trim 8 thinly cut chops from the leg, add some parsley, mace, a piece of butter, and sufficient milk to cover and simmer, in a closed pan, for 1 hour. Drain the chops, dip each in bread-crumbs and yolk of egg, and fry in butter. Thicken the milk with flour and butter, yolk of an egg, and flavoring of lemon juice, pepper, and salt, strain it over the chops, which can be arranged in a circle round green peas or fresh beans.

MUTTON CUTLETS. (Prague.)

Cut up a neck of mutton, and boil the cutlets in sufficient stock to cover, with an onion, a carrot,


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and some herbs for 3/4 hour. Drain them, make a sauce of 1 spoonful each of flour and butter, 1 cup of boiling milk, salt, pepper, 1/2 cup of grated horseradish, the juice of 1/2 a lemon, and yolk of 1 egg. Pour this around the chops, dust them with some bread-crumbs, and brown in a hot oven. Serve with spinach or potatoes.

VEAL CUTLETS. (Vienna.)

Slice, pare, and flatten 2 pounds of veal, add salt, pepper, and dip them in egg and bread-crumbs. Fry them in bacon fat, and arrange on a dish with 1/2 a teaspoonful of capers on each, and a garnish of anchovies, sliced lemon, and parsley. Serve with potato salad.

SAUER-BRATEN. (Germany.)

Steep a good-sized piece of beef in vinegar for 2 days. Drain it, lard it with bacon, dust it with mixed spices ground fine, salt, and pepper, and brown it in melted butter or dripping. Add then 2 carrots, and 2 onions sliced, a bayleaf, parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram, also the rind of a lemon, and 1 pint of boiling water. Simmer, covered, for 3 hours. Take out the meat, skim


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the gravy, add vinegar to taste, thicken it with a little flour, then strain, and pour over the meat Serve with sauerkraut.

SPANISH OLIO. (Olla Podrida.)

Clean, parboil, and cut up a fine fat rabbit, add 12 oysters, 2 cups of consommé, a little mace, salt, pepper, some parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf. Cook, covered, until tender, about 1 hour in an earthen pot or bowl. Strain the gravy, add 1/4 pound of butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, an anchovy minced fine, a tablespoonful of wine or Worcestershire sauce, and pour over the rabbit. Serve with a pint of mixed cooked vegetables, in the same dish, onions, beans, green peppers, carrots, cabbage, etc.

LITTLE MUTTON TURNOVERS. (Turkey.)

Chop 1 pound of cold mutton, add salt, pepper, cinnamon, and 1 chopped onion to a pound of meat. Cook with 1 ounce of butter, and make some good puff paste, roll it thin, cut into squares, and fill with spoonfuls of the meat. Pinch the edges, brush with melted butter, and bake in a hot oven. Serve in a mound, with a sauce or border of parsley.

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AMOURETTES. (Old French and Roman recipe.)

Cut up and steep 2 pounds of beef marrow. Drain it, add salt and pepper, and 1 cup of tomato sauce. Then add 1/2 pound of chopped ham and 1/4 pound of cooked and sliced truffles. Line a mould with forcemeat, made of bread-crumbs, herbs, and butter, then fill with the above mixture. Steam it for 3/4 hour, turn out on a hot dish, and serve with mushrooms, and 1/2 pint of white sauce.

SWEETBREADS (as cooked in Dauphiny).

Soak and parboil 2 large heart sweetbreads, drain them, lard with strips of pork, and place in a casserole with 2 carrots and 2 onions sliced, and some parsley, and 1/2 pint consommé. Cover closely with a pie plate, on which put something heavy, and braise them. In France the plate is of earthenware, and live coals are kept on top to assist the baking or braising, as it is called. Serve with green peas.

SWEETBREADS FINANCIÈRE. (Paris.)

Trim and parboil two pairs of sweetbreads; fry them with 1 ounce butter, 1 carrot, 1 onion, some herbs, and 1 cup of stock. Cook for 3/4 hour, strain the stock over them on a dish, and serve with a border of 6 truffles, 6 mushrooms, 6 olives,


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6 cocks'-combs, and 6 forcemeat balls made of chicken, bread, etc., which have been simmered in 1/2 pint of stock, with a glass of Madeira.

SWEETBREADS (as cooked in Italy).

Soak and parboil 2 large heart sweetbreads. Cut each into 4 pieces and fry in butter with salt, pepper, and parsley. When cool, dip each in some white stock or Bechamel sauce, then in egg and bread-crumbs and fry until brown. Serve with a brown sauce with mushrooms and a border of spaghetti, both cooked, the latter with tomatoes and cheese on top.

SWEETBREADS. (Modena.)

Blanch and cut into 4 pieces a pair of fine sweetbreads. Season, fry them, and drain them. Have ready 1 cup of cold chicken and the same of beef tongue, cut into strips, also a cup of cooked spaghetti, covered with tomato sauce. Arrange the spaghetti in the middle of a plate, put the sweetbreads over it and arrange the chicken in one end of the plate and the tongue at the other. Pour some tomato sauce over all and serve hot.

BROILED SWEETBREADS. (Paris.)

Blanch two fine sweetbreads and cook them for 20 minutes in a cup of stock. Drain them, and when cold dip them in a rich cream sauce. When


View page [list of illustrations]



[Illustration: A decorative plate of sweetbreads garnished around with vegetable.]




[Illustration: An illustration of a plate of veal with mushrooms.]




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this is firm, roll them in bread-crumbs and a thin slice of ham, then tie each in oiled paper. Broil them on a gridiron, take off the paper, and serve with a border of spinach.

SWEETBREAD CUTLETS (as cooked in Montpellier).

Soak a pair of large sweetbreads in salt and water, parboil them, and let them cool. Cut into shape and dip in aspic jelly, melted. When it is firm, arrange in a circle and fill the centre with asparagus tips cooked in stock and cut up; pour mayonnaise sauce over the asparagus and put on ice until needed.

SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES. (Paris.)

Parboil, cool, and chop 4 small or 3 large sweetbreads. Cook with 1 ounce of butter, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, 1/2 pint of cooked mushrooms, 1 cup of white stock, and the yolks of 2 eggs. Add juice of a lemon, parsley, and a little nutmeg. Mix all well and roll into balls. Dip into eggs and bread-crumbs and fry in hot fat.

STEWED SWEETBREADS. (England.)

Parboil a pair of sweetbreads, trim them, and cut into 8 pieces. Cover with a pint of veal broth, add salt, pepper, parsley, sweet marjoram, and a


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little mace. Cook, covered, for 40 minutes. Take out, strain the sauce, add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Pour it around and serve.

VEAL CUTLETS (as cooked in Venice).

Chop 1/2 pint of mushrooms, 2 onions, some parsley, thyme, and 2 ounces of bacon. Mix with 1 ounces of butter, season it and rub it through a sieve. Cover 2 pounds veal cutlets with this on both sides; cover these with oiled paper and cook in a little stock, turning often until tender. Take off the paper, add water or stock to the sauce, yolks of 2 eggs, and juice of a lemon, skim it, strain it, and pour over the cutlets.

VEAL CUTLETS (as cooked in Metz).

Lard 6 fine cutlets with strips of bacon. Put in a pan with 1 ounce butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, sliced, and the trimmings of the veal, some parsley, a bayleaf, and a cup of consomme. Brown the cutlets in the butter, add the rest, cook, covered, 2 hours, strain sauce, add tomatoes to it.

BAKED MUTTON CHOPS. (Italy.)

Braise 6 chops in stock with 2 carrots, an onion, parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Let them brown, drain them, and reduce the sauce. Add to


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it 1/2 cup bread-crumbs, yolk of 1 hard-boiled egg, 6 mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Chop this fine and dip each chop in it, then in grated Parmesan cheese. Bake in the oven until brown and serve with Tartare sauce.

MUTTON CHOPS (as cooked in Southern France).

Trim and season 5 cutlets; fry them in 1 ounce butter. Chop 5 small onions and fry them in butter; when soft but not brown, add the juice of a lemon, some parsley, and the yolks of 2 eggs. Stir until thick and add salt and pepper. Cover the chops on both sides with this, and lay them on a dish ; dust bread-crumbs thickly over all and bake until brown. Serve with green peas.

BRAISED CHOPS. (Poland.)

Trim 7 chops, fry in butter, and let them cool. Make a forcemeat of 1/4 pound bacon, 1/2 pound calf's liver, some bread-crumbs, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 bayleaf, parsley, salt, and pepper. Chop these well and cook for 10 minutes, rub through a sieve, coat the chops on both sides with it. Cover each with buttered paper and braise, in the oven, basting with 1/2 cup of brown sauce or stock. Take off the paper, strain the sauce around, and serve with a border of fried potatoes.

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LAMB CHOPS. (Madame de Maintenon.)

Trim the chops, make a forcemeat of chopped ham, bread-crumbs, and mushrooms, in equal parts, mixed with onion juice, parsley, butter, and seasoning. Put a tablespoonful on each chop; roll it in buttered paper. Bake, in a closed tin, in a hot oven, then mark them with a hot skewer, to imitate the wires of a gridiron. Serve in the papers with peas. This dish was invented to please the king whom the lady married.

EPIGRAMMES OF LAMB. (A famous French entree.)

Pare, season, and fry 4 lamb chops. Dip each in crumbs and broil. Take a breast of lamb, cooked in broth, remove the bones and cut it into 8 pieces. Dip each into cold Bechamel or stock made of chicken, then in crumbs and fry brown. Arrange these two alternately, chops and cutlets, overlapping, in a circle, and fill the centre with green peas, string beans, and asparagus tips, cooked, a cupful of each, and pour around a good sauce made of milk or stock, herbs, etc., as convenient.

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (invented by the cook of Leo X., Jean Careme).

Take 3 pounds of the fillet of veal, 4 inches thick, and cut it round or oval, to fit a baking dish


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or casserole. Lard it closely with strips of bacon; add to this 1 carrots, 2 onions, 1 turnips, and 1 ounce of ham, sliced, parsley, a clove, the trimmings of the veal, salt, pepper, and 1/2 pint of consomme. Lay the fillet on top of this, and, covering it closely, bake until tender. Baste it often. A short time before serving, strain the gravy, thicken it with flour, and serve in the same dish, with spinach, or tomatoes, stuffed or fried potatoes.

GRENADINES OF VEAL. (French.)

Cut 4 slices, one inch thick, from a cushion or noix of veal; flatten it and put into a saucepan with thin slices of ham and 1/2 cup of white stock, a carrot and an onion and some parsley. Cook in the oven 1 hour, basting often. Strain the sauce, pour over, and serve with peas.

VEAL AND MUSHROOMS. (Germany.)

Make a forcemeat of bread, herbs, some cold veal, yolk of an egg, and milk to moisten. Have ready 8 slices of thinly cut veal; fill with this and roll, tying to keep in shape. Put into a pan with 1 onion, some butter, salt, pepper, parsley, and a spoonful of chopped ham and 1 cup of veal stock. Cook 1 hour, take out, strain the sauce, and add to it 6 mushrooms. Cook these until tender, add


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a spoonful of sherry and press through a sieve; arrange the veal on this and serve.

CREAM of VEAL. (Germany.)

Chop and pound 1 pound of veal tenderloin, add as much bread-crumbs, moistened with milk, the yolk of an egg and the beaten whites of two, and enough milk to make into a paste. Stir and season and pour into a buttered mould. Steam it like a custard for an hour, and serve with a sauce.

MINUTEN FLEISCH. (Germany.)

Slice 1 1/2 pounds of tender veal very thin; cut into 4-inch squares and season to taste. Put in a pan with 1/2 cup of claret, and, when well steeped, take out, dip in flour, and lay in a buttered pan with some parsley, half a cup of consomme, and the juice of a lemon. Bake 40 minutes, or until tender, and serve with the sauce around.

GOULASCH. (Hungary.)

Boil and cut into bits the meat of a calf's head. Fry it with an onion in butter, add salt and paprika, 1 pint of brown stock or sauce, and 12 balls cut from potatoes and fried in butter, also 12 onions cooked in butter till brown. Arrange the meat in centre and the vegetables around.

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POERKOELL. (Hungary.)

This is another national dish of the country. Cut into 2-inch squares 2 pounds of veal from the shin. Add half as much of the tenderloin of fresh pork, and fry both with an onion, some herbs, and a little paprika. Cover with 3 cups of bouillon and cook 1 hour. Serve with a vegetable border.

PUCHERO. (National dish of Spain.)

Put 2 pounds beef with a pig's foot, the liver of a chicken, cut up, 3 cups of dried peas soaked overnight, 1 quart of water, some herbs, and an onion. Do not cut the meat and pork. Cook, covered, for 1 hours. Add 2 leeks, a carrot, and a head of lettuce, a slice of squash or pumpkin cut into shreds, and 6 small sausages or balls made of sausage meat. Cook 1 hour longer, arrange the meat neatly with the vegetables, etc., around, strain the gravy, and pour it over. Serve with a border of toast.

PUNSKI. (Russia.)

Chop and fry 1 onion; add the meat of a sliced fillet of veal; fry it, season it, and let it cool. Chop it fine with the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs and a little parsley, thicken it to a paste with some good broth. Roll out very thin some fine pastry dough, cut into circles, and by putting two together, fill


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with the meat. Let it rise a little, brush with the yolk of an egg, and bake until brown. Serve on a dish with a good sauce.

MINESTRONE. (Italy.)

Chop 2 ounces bacon; add a slice of ham, a cabbage, shredded, 2 cups of string beans, 4 table-spoonfuls of celery cut into dice, as much peas, asparagus tips, and a cup of stewed tomatoes. Then add 2 quarts of broth, 1 pound of rice, and some sliced Bologna sausage. Cook for 1 hour; add a cup of grated Parmesan cheese and serve hot. This is a national dish.

LEICESTERSHIRE MEDLEY. (England.)

Line a dish with some good pie-crust; bake it until a light brown. Cut up 1 pound each of roast beef, bacon, and cored apples. Fill in alternate layers, seasoning with salt, pepper, and powdered ginger, and when it is full, a pint of ale, or enough to moisten all. Put on a lid of the dough and bake in a moderate oven 2 hours. Serve hot or cold.

LANCASHIRE HOT-POT. (England.)

Take 3 1/2 pounds of choice mutton, in chops, from the neck, 4 mutton kidneys, 20 oysters, 4 onions, sliced, and 3 pounds of potatoes. Slice


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the potatoes and kidneys, and arrange all in alternate layers in a deep dish, seasoning with herbs, salt, and pepper. Put a layer of potatoes on top, and moisten with oyster juice. Bake in a slow oven until the top is crisp. Cover at first with a pie plate to keep in the steam, cooking about 3 1/2 hours.

JACOBIN'S POTTAGE.

This is a particularly tempting dish, popular in the old convents in France before the Revolution. Chop the meat of a cold turkey fine; add 2 ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Make four or five slices of toast, put in the bottom of a dish, and add 1 cup stock, then the chopped meat and a sprinkling of crumbs. Bake 1 hour, add lemon juice on top.

ENGLISH HAGGIS.

Haggis is peculiar to Scotland, but few people outside of that country care for it as originally made, - from the intestines, lungs, and stomach of a sheep, - so the English version is given, as likely to be popular when once it is tried.

Weigh and chop the tongue, liver, and kidneys of a sheep, then add half their weight in fat bacon, minced fine, 2 slices of stale bread in crumbs, 2 anchovies, pounded, a spoonful of lemon juice and


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the grated rind, pepper, salt, and two eggs, beaten. Stir well, pour into a mould, steam it for 2 hours and turn out. Serve hot, with a sauce, if desired.

BAKED CALF'S HEART. (England.)

This is a very old dish and called usually, "Love in Disguise." Wash the heart well, wipe it, and fill it with a forcemeat of chopped veal, bread-crumbs, herbs, onion, seasoning, and yolk of egg. Tie it in oiled paper and bake it for 1 1/2 hours, basting often. Take off the paper, sprinkle it with flour, and let it brown. Serve it in slices, with a puree of spinach, or tomatoes, or mashed potato.

OXFORD JOHN MUTTON. (England.)

This is an old way of cold meat cookery. Melt some butter; add some thinly cut slices of underdone mutton, shaped in circles as large as an egg. Season with salt, pepper, onion juice, parsley, thyme, and a blade of mace. Stir it well, and when brown, add 1 cup of good stock or gravy, free from fat, then a spoonful of currant jelly, and a spoonful of flour, blended with as much butter. Stir five minutes more and serve hot.

BACHELOR'S STEW. (England.)

This is still another old recipe, a relic of the days before clubs became plentiful and lonely men


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cooked their meals on the hob of the little fire-place of their own rooms.

Buy a slice of the fillet of veal, 2 inches thick, weighing 2 1/2 pounds. Fry it in a pan with some butter, a slice of lean ham, 2 carrots, 3 onions, sliced, and some celery and green peas, 1/2 cupful each, or more if desired. Add a spoonful of Worcestershire sauce and a cup of boiling water. Cover very closely, and let it simmer for 1 1/2 hours. Thicken the gravy with flour and pour it around the meat and vegetables, neatly arranged.

TRIPE (á la mode de Caen).

Tripe is cooked in various styles at Caen, Dijon, Venice, Lyons, and Toulouse. That of Caen is justly the most delightful.

Clean, scald, and scrape 1 1/2 pounds of tripe - or it can be bought already dressed. Cut it into neat pieces about 1 inches square, and put it in an earthen casserole with 1 large carrot, and an onion, sliced, 1 clove, 1 bayleaf, a bit of thyme, and a spoonful of chopped parsley. Fry these in butter ; add a pint of consomme and a tablespoonful of white wine or cider; cover closely and cook until tender. It must be served in the casserole, as it is abroad.

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TRIPE (as cooked in Lyons).

Cut into narrow strips 1 pound of cold boiled tripe. Fry it in 2 ounces of butter or soup fat, clarified, with 2 large sliced onions, parsley, pepper, salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. When brown, pour into a dish, and serve with a border of Lyonnaise potatoes. The recipe for these can be found in any cook-book.

CALLALOU. (A Greek dish, brought by sailors to Marseilles.)

Cut into slices two dozen ochra pods, add a little salt, and set aside for 15 minutes. Then wash them with warm water, drain, and boil until tender. Drain them once more ; add two handfuls of string beans, sliced and cooked. Cut also 2 egg plants into squares, 5 large tomatoes, and slice 2 large onions, and core and slice 2 green peppers. Cook all of these in butter or dripping, stirring until almost dry; season, add some chopped parsley, cook 10 minutes more, and serve hot.

CASSOULIC. (Provence.)

Chop the remains of any cold meat into dice; add some bacon and onions, cut up half as much of cold cooked lima or white beans, pressed through a sieve, and enough gravy or stock to moisten. Stir; add salt, pepper, parsley, sweet


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marjoram, and a pinch of nutmeg; pour into a dish, and sprinkle bread-crumbs thickly on top. Bake 1/2 hour and serve with tomato sauce.

CASSOLETTE. (Languedoc.)

Make a puree of cooked white beans, add salt and pepper and as much finely chopped turkey, chicken, or duck. Fry an onion, 2 slices of bacon, and 2 tomatoes, sliced, with 2 cloves, parsley, and the beans and meat, well blended. Now add 1 pint of good broth, enough to make a paste; pour into a dish and bake until brown. This is a very old dish and very good to eat, besides.

ANDOUILLETTES OF NANCY.

Nancy, St. Menehould, Aries, and Lyons are as famous for their sausages as Frankfurt and Brunswick and Bologna. But the French preparations are much daintier than those of Italy and Germany.

Take 2 pounds of veal and one of fresh pork. Cook the latter two hours in salted water, and chop both very fine, with 2 onions, 3 truffles, and 4 mushrooms, adding parsley, salt, and pepper. Mix well and press into sausage skins,- which can be bought from a butcher, - tie them at intervals of 2 inches and boil them for an hour


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in 1 quart of consomme flavored with 2 carrots, 2 turnips, and 1/4 of a cabbage. This can be used later for soup. Let them cool, cut apart, and fry them 25 minutes in butter, then serve them with omelette or poached eggs.

PIGS' FEET (as cooked in St. Menebould).

Clean and split 2 large feet, then tie them securely and put in a quart of stock, or broth, with salt, pepper, a carrot, an onion, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, a clove, and two pieces of celery. Cover and cook 3 hours. Drain, remove the bones, put under a weight, and when cold dip in butter and bread-crumbs and broil until brown. Serve hot with Tartare sauce or a cream sauce with mushrooms in it.

CROWDIE. (Scotland.)

Skim the fat from 2 quarts mutton broth, add 1/2 pint of oatmeal and 2 onions chopped fine, salt, pepper, and parsley. Cover; cook 3 hours; strain it, and serve with slices of toast.

HOWTOWDIE. (Scotland.)

Clean, truss, and stuff a fine fowl with a force-meat of veal, bread, herbs, and yolk of egg. Brown it in a pan with 4 ounces of butter or drippings ; add 1/2 pint good stock, and cook, with


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some parsley, thyme, salt, 6 small onions, and a bayleaf, for an hour, tightly closed. Serve with a border of cooked greens.

KEDGEREE. (England.)

Soak 1 pint of split peas overnight, drain them, add I pound of rice, salt, pepper, and 1/2 a tea-spoonful of ginger. Stir and cover with 1 quart of water. Stir and cook slowly until done and almost dry. Make into a mound, garnish with fried onions and sliced hard-boiled eggs.

HODGE-PODGE. (England.)

Cut a neck of mutton, about 6 pounds, and cut into chops, except the scrag end, which use whole. Add to both 1/2 pint water, 6 small onions, cut in halves, 6 turnips and 2 carrots, cut into dice and 1/4 of a cabbage, sliced. Simmer for 1/2 hour, add 2 ounces barley and some herbs. Cook until the meat is tender, take out the scrag, and strain the sauce over the meat and vegetables on a dish. Serve with thick slices of toasted bran bread. This is a very old recipe for family stew.

BEEF TONGUE (as cooked in Alsace-Lorraine).

Boil a tongue until tender in some stock. Drain, cool it, and remove the skin and uneven


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end. Cover it with egg and bread-crumbs and bake it 1/2 hour, basting it with 1 cup of port wine. Make a puree of chestnuts by boiling, peeling, and chopping 1 quart, adding sufficient white stock and seasoning, and a pinch of mace. Press through a sieve ; it will look like vermicelli. Place the tongue on top, and serve hot, with a good sauce made of tomatoes, onions, herbs, bacon, etc.

BEEF TONGUE (as cooked in Italy).

Boil and slice in strips a tongue; put it in a dish with a sauce made of 3 minced onions, fried in butter with a teaspoonful of flour, 2 of lemon juice, and a cupful of chopped mushrooms. Boil this 10 minutes, and pour over, adding bread-crumbs on top and bits of butter. Bake 20 minutes, and serve with spinach, or peas, or spaghetti cooked with tomatoes and cheese.

BEEF TONGUE (as cooked in France).

Parboil and skin a tongue. Add one pint of white broth, parsley, thyme, a clove, 1 onion, 1 carrot, and a turnip. Cook for 1 hours. Cool it, and slice it in 12 pieces, across. Arrange in the original shape with a forcemeat between, of 4 ounces bread, soaked in milk, some mushrooms, herbs, butter, salt, and yolks of two eggs. Lay it


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on a dish ; cover with a layer of the stock, some crumbs over all, and bake, sprinkling some cheese over it, for 1/2 hour. Serve in the same dish.

FRENCH KIDNEY STEW.

Slice, season, and fry in 2 ounces of butter 2 fine veal kidneys which have been soaked and parboiled. These must be cut into dice, and then added, parsley, pepper, and salt. Merely brown the kidneys, or they will be tough. Now mix 3 sliced mushrooms with I/2 cup of stock or consomme, thickened with flour and some butter, juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry. Boil and pour over the kidneys, previously placed on slices of toast.

BRAISED CALF'S LIVER (as cooked in Italy).

Boil and lard a fine fresh liver. Put it in a dish with 1/4 pound of chopped bacon, 1 carrots, 2 onions, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, salt, and pepper, and a pint of consomme. Cook 2 hours, add 1 cup of stewed tomatoes and a tablespoonful of sherry wine. Strain and reduce the sauce, after cooking 20 minutes longer. Brown the liver with a little flour, sprinkled over, and pour the sauce around, with 6 freshly fried mushrooms, and a border of cooked spaghetti.

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BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. (France.)

Cut up, and soak in water for an hour, 2 pounds of the shoulder of veal. Drain it and cover with water, adding salt, pepper, and a bay-leaf. Boil slowly and skim often, for an hour. Take out the meat, put it with 2 ounces butter, parsley, and an onion, and then, when a pale yellow, add 1 ounce flour, 1/2 pint fresh peas, and 1 cup of the gravy. Strain the rest, add the yolk of an egg and the juice of a lemon, and pour over all.

RAGOUT OF LAMB. (Germany.)

Cover 2 pounds of the breast of lamb with cold water, and simmer for ten minutes. Throw away this water, and cut up the meat into pieces. Add 1 sliced onion, a carrot, a piece of celery, parsley, sweet marjoram, pepper, and salt. Cook these with a little butter, and the meat, 10 minutes; dredge with flour, add 1/2 pint mutton broth - or hot water - and stew until tender. Take out the meat, add yolks of 2 eggs and a tablespoonful of vinegar to the sauce, strain it, and pour over. Serve with sorrel.

LAMB RAGOUT AND RAVIOLI. (Italy.)

Boil 2 pounds of the neck of lamb and 3 quarts of water, salt, pepper, parsley, a turnip, and


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2 onions, sliced and cooked in butter. Simmer for 3 hours, cut the meat into small pieces, reduce the broth by rapid boiling, and add 1 dozen ravioli - see recipe - previously poached in broth. Serve the meat garnished with these, and the strained broth, in a bowl.

RAGOUT OF DUCK. (Ireland.)

Clean and cut up a fine young duck, fry it in butter or drippings, with an onion, and 2 ounces chopped ham, add 1 ounce flour, stir, and add 1/2 pint of hot water and a tablespoonful of vinegar, some parsley, a little thyme, and a piece of celery. Cover, and cook 1 hour, season, and serve with a border of potato croquettes, or mashed potatoes, browned.

SCOTCH STEW (from a private recipe book).

The border tribes and lairds have been forced, for several centuries, to economize closely, and when they can get a piece of fresh meat, they utilize every scrap most carefully. Poverty has taught them many secrets besides caution and self-control.

Peel and chop 6 small onions, add a pint of cold water, and cook for 1 hour. Strain the water, thicken it with flour and an ounce of butter, add


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a cupful of gravy, left over from the meat used, and skimmed, a tablespoonful of Worcestershire and another of tomato sauce, some parsley, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Mix and pour over the cold roast mutton, or turkey, or veal cut into pieces, with 6 boiled and peeled potatoes, and cook for 20 minutes, covered with a thick layer of bread-crumbs.

KEBOBBED MUTTON. (England.)

Bone, stuff a shoulder of mutton with bread-crumbs, onions, herbs, egg, and lemon peel, and a little butter; coat it with egg and crumbs, herbs, and chopped onion, and bake till brown, basting it with its own gravy of butter, and 1/2 cup of hot water. Add a tablespoonful of ketchup to the sauce, and serve with boiled onions or green peas.

MINCED LAMB. (Southern France.)

Remove the fat and gristle from as much cold roast lamb as would fill 2 cups, and chop very fine. Cook it with an onion, a tablespoonful of butter, salt, pepper, some parsley and nutmeg. Add 1 cup of white stock or sauce, and the yolk of an egg. Cook carefully and pour on slices of toast, previously dipped in hot water and drained.


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Pour around some nice sauce, and garnish with parsley.

BEEF HASH (as cooked in Russia).

Chop 2 pounds of lean raw beef (or underdone roast beef) with 1/4 pound of suet, 2 onions, some parsley, salt, and pepper. Add 1 cup of consomme and 1/2 cup of bread-crumbs. Stir well, pour into a mould) sprinkle with crumbs on top, and a spoonful of lemon juice. Bake until brown, and turn out on a border of mashed potatoes.

ITALIAN BEEF CROQUETTES.

Chop very finely 3/4 pound of cold roast beef, add 1/2 pound of stale bread-crumbs which have been soaked in enough stock, 1 spoonful of chopped onion, fried in butter, salt, pepper, and parsley. Stir on the fire until smooth, add 2 table-spoonfuls of stewed and strained tomatoes, and the yolk of an egg. When cool, make into croquettes, dip in crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with mushroom or caper sauce.

CHICKEN CROQUETTES (as made at the Jockey Club, Paris).

For one dozen, cut 3/4 pound boiled chicken very fine, with 1/4 pound or 1/2 of button mushrooms, 1 tablespoonful of butter, the same of flour, yolks of 2 eggs, and 1 glass of sherry.


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First, fry an onion in butter, add flour, then a cup of chicken broth, the other things chopped fine and seasoning. When it boils, add the eggs, and take off to cool. When firm, make into shape and fry. This is a very delicious recipe ; the croquettes are soft inside and hard outside, as they should be, if well fried. But the fat must be abundant and boiling.

MOCK RABBIT. (A German supper dish.)

Mix 1 pound of raw chopped beef, and as much lean veal, also chopped, with 4 eggs, 1 cup of bread-crumbs, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, thyme, and a spoonful of onion juice. Beat all well, and shape on a dish into an oval loaf. Cover with egg and bread-crumbs; put in a pan lined with slices of pork ; baste it in oven while baking it, and about 40 minutes. Serve hot or cold and in slices.

ANGELS ON HORSEBACK. (English supper dish.)

Cut 2 ounces of bacon into very thin slices, wrap each around a fat oyster, put three on a skewer, using all required, and fry in butter; serve that way on toast, with slices of lemon.

WINCHESTER CUTLETS. (England.)

Mix 1/2 pound of cold minced chicken, veal, or lamb, with 1/2 pound bread-crumbs, 1 ounce butter,


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yolk of one egg, salt, parsley, and a spoonful of flour. Mould into chops, put a bit of macaroni in the end of each, to imitate a bone, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry brown. Serve with tomato sauce or a puree of spinach.

VENTNOR PUDDING. (England.)

Mince some cold roast beef, and to every pound add 1/2 pound bread-crumbs, soaked in a little stock, a spoonful of butter, a spoonful of curry powder, pepper, celery, salt, and an onion chopped fine. Mix well, pour into a dish, cover with 2 whole eggs, well beaten and seasoned and bake until brown. Serve hot.

PILAFF OF BEEF. (Barcelona.)

Cut 1 pound of tender beef-fresh meat - into 4-inch slices, add 1 onion, minced fine, in butter, a bit of celery, some parsley, thyme, seasoning, and sufficient stock to moisten all. Cook until the meat is done, add a spoonful of white wine, pour on a hot dish, arrange around 1/2 pound of rice, boiled, in some stock, and cover with tomato sauce.

BRAISED BEEF, en daube. (Marseilles.)

Lard closely 6 pounds of beef, and soak overnight in enough mild vinegar to cover it. Drain


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it ; brown it on both sides in a casserole or deep pan, with a little suet and some flour. Add 1 1/2 quarts of boiling water, 2 bayleaves, 6 cloves, 6 allspice, some parsley, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, and 1 onion, sliced, salt, and pepper. Cover closely, and cook slowly for 4 hours, turning the meat several times. Take it out of the broth, and put in a mould of proper size; lay a weight on top and let it cool. Clarify the broth, add sufficient gelatine to make a jelly, and pour around the meat in the mould. When firm, turn out and serve cold, in slices.

BRAISED BEEF. (English recipe.)

Lard 4 pounds of beef, from the rump; season it with salt, pepper, allspice, and chopped onion. Tie it neatly, and fry it in 1 ounces of butter or soup fat (the skimming of stock), then pour off the grease and add 1 pint of consomme, 1 cup tomatoes, a spoonful of sherry, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, sliced, and some parsley. Cook, covered, for 3 hours. Take out the meat, press the broth through a sieve, thicken it with flour, and pour around the meat.

BEEF STEW (as cooked in Poland).

Bone and stuff a loin of beef or about 5 pounds with a good forcemeat; tie it firmly and brown it


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on one side in a little suet. Add 1 quart of stock or boiling water, and cook it for 3 hours, covered, with, if hot water is used, some onions, carrots, celery, and herbs. Strain the stock, reduce it by rapid boiling, add 1 cup of cooked and strained tomatoes and have ready a red cabbage, cooked and sliced and dipped in vinegar, one dozen small onions and 6 beets, cooked and sliced; arrange these nicely around the meat and pour the sauce over. Serve hot.

BOILED BEEF (as cooked in Hungary).

Chop the beef used in stock very fine, and arrange in shape of a mound. Garnish with shredded lettuce, hard-boiled eggs, gherkins, and capers; prepare a dressing of oil, vinegar (tarragon preferred), onion juice, salt, and pepper; pour over all and serve cold.

SOUFFLÉ OF GAME. (Germany.)

Chop and pound 1 cups of the meat of rabbits, guinea fowl, partridges or duck, very fine {the dark meat of a turkey will do); add 1 ounces of boiled rice, 1 ounce butter, salt, pepper, 1/2 cup of stock, and some parsley. Mix well and pass through a sieve. Add yolks of 4 eggs and the beaten whites of two; stir and pour into a mould. Bake until brown and serve hot.

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SALMI OF GAME. (Scotch hunter's recipe.)

Chop and cut into dice the meat of any cold game, to make 2 cups. Add to the skin, bones and gravy and trimmings, 1 glass of claret, 2 small chopped onions, thyme, a clove, a cup of consomme mixed with a tablespoonful of flour and 2 tablespoonfuls of tomatoes. Cook and stir and strain ; add the game and 6 stoned olives; cook a little longer, and pour over slices of toast.

GOOSE LIVER KLOSSE. (Germany.)

This can be made equally well of calf's liver. In Germany, goose is a favorite fowl, and there are plenty of livers left over for fancy cookery. Crumble 1 slices of stale bread and soak them in enough milk to cover. Melt 1 ounce butter, add 4 beaten eggs, parsley, salt, and a pinch of spice. Stir until it thickens, add bread, and 1 cup of chopped liver - parboiled - and make it all into bails. Poach these in broth for 1/2 an hour. Drain and serve in a pile, with a good sauce. This is a good dish, and the recipe can be made, baking the whole in a dish, instead of as above.

PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGE. (Northern France.)

Slice and parboil a head of cabbage. Lay it on a dish and on each piece a partridge, stuffed with


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sausage meat, mixed with some chopped herbs, 2 onions, 2 carrots, and 1/4 pound butter. Add 1 cup of stock and cover very closely ; cook slowly for 1 hours. Arrange the cabbage on a dish with the birds on top and pour the gravy over all.

JUGGED HARE. (England.)

Clean, skin, and cut up a rabbit; fry it in butter or a little dripping until brown. Mash and bone 2 anchovies; chop some herbs, mace, parsley, and lemon peel. Line an earthen jar or bowl with slices of bacon ; put in the rabbit, with bacon and the above flavoring in layers, adding 4 tablespoonfuls of ale, and on the top some bacon and an earthen lid which must be fastened air-tight, with flour paste. Set in a saucepan of water and boil for 4 hours. Take off the cover and serve cold.

JUGGED HARE. (Another recipe. Yorkshire style.)

Skin, clean, cut up, and fry a rabbit, in butter; put it in a wide stone crock with 1 glass of port wine, a little cinnamon, a clove, a bayleaf, juice of a lemon, over all, a layer of forcemeat, made of bread-crumbs, herbs, egg, and butter. Smooth the top, cover closely, and set in a pot of water. Cook 3 hours and serve with currant jelly.

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CIVET OF HARE. (England.)

Clean and cut up a rabbit; fry all in some butter, adding some chopped ham, about 2 table-spoonfuls. Then add 1 1/2 pints stock, thickened with some flour, 6 small onions, 1 bayleaf, 1 bit of mace, salt, pepper, and 6 chopped mushrooms. Simmer 1 hour, strain the sauce, add a spoonful of port wine, or the juice of a lemon. Arrange the meat on toast and pour over the sauce.

RABBIT (as cooked in Venice).

Cut up three fine rabbits, melt 1 ounce of butter and add 1 ounce chopped ham and some parsley, onion juice, and herbs; fry, and add the meat. When brown, add 1/2 cup of white broth and cook until tender. Strain the sauce, add the yolks of 3 eggs, a tablespoonful of capers, and salt and pepper. If not enough, add hot cream or milk and pour over.

RABBIT CAKE. (Germany.)

Boil a rabbit in water with onions, carrots, herbs, etc., using this broth for soup and cutting up the meat of the rabbit. Chop it very fine ; add 1 cup of mashed potato, 1 onion chopped in butter, 1/4 pound of beef tongue, parsley, thyme, and seasoning. Chop well, and add 1 cup of white


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stock; arrange on a dish in a mound and put bread-crumbs over and bits of butter. Bake till brown and serve with mushroom or tomato sauce.

ASPIC OF RABBIT. (Austria.)

Cook slowly, until tender, in 3 pints of water and 1 cup of wine vinegar, 2 fine rabbits, adding a teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 as much peppercorns, 4 white onions, fried in butter, and 1/2 a lemon. This will require about an hour. Strain through a sieve, and add enough beef stock to make 2 quarts, a packet of gelatine soaked in a little hot water, and boil once more, then let it cool. Make a forcemeat of 1 calf's liver, chopped fine with 1/2 pound of ham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 cup of bread-crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, parsley, salt, pepper. Mix all this, finely chopped, and bake it a half hour in an oiled tin ; when cold, slice it. Line a mould with jelly, made as above, and fill in layers with forcemeat, jelly, and rabbit, cut in slices. Cover the top with jelly, - it must be melted in order to do it right,-and set on ice. Turn out and serve with mayonnaise dressing.

VENISON (as cooked in Roumania).

Lard a piece, about 4 pounds, of venison from the leg, and brown it, in butter or dripping, on


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both sides. Add 1 cup of claret, 1 cup of consomme, 1 stick of cinnamon, a spoonful of sugar, salt, and pepper, and some parsley. When cooked 1 hour, add 2 dozen large prunes which have been soaked overnight and drained ; then cook for 1 hours, closely covered, longer. Strain the sauce, arrange the prunes as a border, and pour the sauce over all.

VENISON. (Hunter's recipe.)

Butter a large sheet of clean paper, and sprinkle it with salt. Spread a paste of flour and water over a board, and wrap the saddle of venison in it, then cover it closely with the paper, tying it to keep it in place. Put it in an earthen dish with 1/2 cup of butter and a glass of port wine, and baste it often while cooking, adding hot water if too dry. It ought to cook slowly, long enough to he tender. Ten minutes before serving, take off the paper and paste, sprinkle the meat with flour, and let it brown. Serve with a sauce of bread-crumbs called panada.

PIG'S HARSLET. (English.)

Wash and dry 1 pound of calf's liver, 1 pair of sweetbreads, 1/4 pound of fresh pork. Cut these into very thin slices, add salt, pepper, sage, and chopped onion. Arrange in layers, to form a


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loaf, and cover with a pig's membrane, which any butcher can obtain, -and bake it, basting it often with butter. When it has cooked 1 1/2 hours, dust it with bread-crumbs, and let it brown. Serve with a brown gravy, made of stock and flavored with sherry.

HEAD CHEESE. (Nancy.)

Boil the forehead, ears, and feet of a pig in 1 quart of water, until the meat will fall from the bones. C