WITH A SAUCEPAN OVER THE SEA
CHAPTER ONE - Soups
COCKA LEEKIE. (Scotland.)
THIS is the oldest recipe for soup known, as it dates back to the fourteenth century. Wash and trim 1 dozen leeks, cut them in pieces half an inch long, discarding roots and tops, then fry them in 1 ounce of butter, with 2 stalks of celery and 1 carrot, cut fine. When brown but not burnt, add 1 1/2 quarts of chicken broth and I cup of cooked chicken, cut into dice. Simmer, covered, 2 hours, then add salt, pepper, and yolk of an egg, blended with a little of the broth, first, before adding to the soup.
PETITE MARMITE.
This is the national soup of France, and just now very fashionable in first-class restaurants. It is always served in the earthen pot in which it is cooked, set on a fancy plate. Each mouthful should convey a distinct taste of a separate vegetable. The marmites are sold at the crockery stores in the French quarter, but an ordinary earthen
Boston bean pot will answer equally well to serve it in. The stock can be first cooked in a large kettle, used for soups, every day.
Cut up 6 pounds of beef and the shin bone, an old chicken,-which can be used for croquettes or salad,- 2 large carrots, 1 leeks, and 2 turnips. Add 3 cloves, a bayleaf, some parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram, 1 gallon of water. Bring it to a boil, skim it, and let it simmer 8 hours. Take off the fat, clarify it, and use it for frying or braising. Add salt and pepper sparingly, set it away overnight, after straining it. To 1 quart of this, heated in the earthen pot, add 1 cup of sliced carrots, turnips, or string beans, cut thin and cooked. Also 4 slices of toasted bread or rolls. Using this recipe for stock - it is given by a reliable chef at one of the clubs-it will make 3 1/2 quarts, sufficient for a week; 1 pint a day, with the addition of milk or vegetables or any other thickening, will do for a small family. Such concentrated stock requires an equal amount of water in cooking a second time. It may also be used in making sauces.
PURÉE JACKSON. (Paris.)
Wash, parboil, and pare 6 large potatoes. Slice them, add 2 ounces of butter, fry lightly, then add salt, pepper, nutmeg, a bayleaf, some parsley, 2
ounces of chopped ham, 1 sliced onion, and 6 stalks of celery. Simmer for 3/4 hour. Press through a sieve, add 1 pint of white stock made from chicken or veal, and 1 pint of boiling milk, 2 ounces of butter, and the yolk of 1 egg, blended with a little of the milk. Stir well, add some bread, toasted and cut in dice, called croutons, and serve at once.
EGG SOUP. (Monte Carlo.)
Cut 6 slices of stale bread and dip them lightly in sugar. Put them in the oven to brown, and have ready 1 pint of white stock and 1 pint of boiling milk, blended with the yolks of 3 eggs and 1ounce of butter. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg and a spoonful of chopped parsley. Pour over the slices of toast and serve, after keeping hot, ten minutes.
QUEEN SOUP.
This is said to have been invented for Marie Stuart by the royal cook when she lived in France as dauphiness. It was a favorite with both Victoria and Napoleon Bonaparte. Cook 2 large onions with 2 pieces of celery, both cut up, in 2 ounces of butter. Add some parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf, 1 chicken cut into joints, and 2 quarts of water. Simmer for 4 hours. Take
out the chicken, cut the meat of the wings and breast into dice, and keep the dark meat for croquettes or salad. Chop one dozen blanched almonds, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, and 2 slices of bread soaked in milk. Pound these with the meat and press through a sieve; add to the soup, strained, 1 cup of boiling cream or rich milk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Serve at once, hot.
CHICKEN SOUP. (As made in Nice.)
Cook 1 ounce of ham with 1 1/2 quarts of chicken broth for 1/2 hour. Add I cup of young carrots cut into dice, 1 dozen small white onions, and 1 cup of turnips, cut into dice, all cooked previously, also two tablespoonfuls of cooked shredded cabbage, the meat from breast and wings cut into dice, and 2 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice. Strain the soup before adding the vegetables and chicken, season it, and serve.
LOBSTER SOUP. (Paris.)
Boil 1 fine hen lobster weighing 2 pounds. Pick and chop the meat and pound the coral with 1 ounce of butter and rub it through a sieve. Add to the meat 2 quarts of white stock, 1 onion, parsley, thyme, and the rind of a lemon. Cook 1/2 hour, add a blending of flour and butter, and rub it
through a sieve. Season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, add 1/2 pint of whipped cream, and serve, giving a little cream to each person.
LOBSTER SOUP. (London.)
Cut into dice the meat of a boiled lobster, fry it with 1 carrot, 1 onion, 4 pieces of celery, all sliced, parsley, thyme, and the rind of a lemon, in 2 ounces of butter. Add 6 ounces of rice flour, or cooked rice rubbed to a paste, 3 pints of good stock, and the meat and pounded coral. Cook 1/2 hour, press through a sieve, add 1 glass of sherry, some of the meat in pieces, and made into force-meat balls with bread, herbs, eggs, and poached in a little broth.
CREAM OF SHRIMPS. (As made in Nice.)
Boil, shell, clean, and chop fifty shrimps, fry them in 2 ounces of butter, add 1 slice of stale bread, 3 anchovies, 4 ounces of boiled rice, 1 sliced onion, salt, pepper, and 1 quarts of white stock. Cook this 1 hours. Press through a sieve a tablespoonful of sherry or a glass of white wine, and serve hot.
CREAM OF SHRIMPS. (As made in Paris.)
Parboil, shell, clean, and chop fifty fine shrimps, fry in 1 ounces of butter, add 1 cup of bread-crumbs
of stale bread, not the crust, salt and pepper, 2 quarts of fish stock or that made of chicken or veal, 1 clove, 1 onion, sliced. Save six of the shrimps to add, cut into dice, before serving. Cook 2 hours, press through a sieve, add 1 cup of boiling cream, a little nutmeg, and the shrimps and 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry.
LOBSTER SOUP. (As made in Nantes, France.)
Cook 1 ounce of chopped ham, 1 onion, and 1 carrot, cut fine, parsley, thyme, and a bayleaf, in 1 ounce of butter. Add 3 pounds of lobster meat, cooked and cut into dice, 1 pint of white wine, and 1 1/2 quarts of veal stock. Simmer 1 hour. Strain the soup, add 2 cups of boiled rice and 1 hard-boiled egg sliced and some butter. Season and serve with croutons.
CONSOMMÉ COLBERT. (France.)
Clarify 1 quart of beef stock, well flavored and made from fresh meat, add 1 tablespoonful of sherry, and in each plate put an egg, poached in water and vinegar, to keep it firm and white. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve very hot.
SOUP BONNE FEMME. (Provincial France.)
This is the broth of the farmer and peasant's wife, wholesome and nourishing. Wash, dry, and
cut up 2 large lettuces, 1 pound of sorrel, and 1 pound of spinach. Add 1 1/2 quarts of good white stock and simmer, with 1/4 pound of butter, 2 onions, and 2 carrots, for 1 hour. Add a blending of 1 ounce of butter, 1 ounce of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, and a cup of boiling milk, salt, and pepper. Press through a sieve, and serve with croutons.
PECTORAL BROTH. (A French convent soup, given to delicate nuns.)
Cut up an old fowl and put with the liver, heart, and gizzard, 1 quarts of water, with a handful of marshmallow root and 2 cups of barley, 1 carrot, 3 onions, parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Simmer for 3 hours, strain the broth, pressing the barley through a sieve ; add the yolk of I egg, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of rum or brandy. It should be reduced to almost a quart, and is very healing.
PIGEON SOUP. (Belgium.)
Blend 1 ounce of butter with 6 ounces of flour, add 3 pigeons, cut up and fried in butter, 1 ounce of chopped ham, 1 quarts of consomme or veal stock, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, 1 leek, and a piece of celery. Cook 1 hour, strain it, cut the meat into dice, add 1 cup of cooked green peas, salt,
pepper, 1 cup of cooked and sliced carrots, and a glass of white wine.
FROG SOUP. (Normandy.)
To 1 1/2 quarts of white stock, add 1 1/2 ounces of flour, an onion, parsley, celery, salt, and pepper. Cook it 1 hour, strain and add 1 dozen frogs' legs, fried in butter, and a glass of sherry. Cook 1/2 hour more, add the yolks of 2 eggs, blended with 1 cup of hot milk and a little butter.
HARE SOUP. (Poland.)
Cook the bones, trimmings, gravy, and stuffing of some cooked rabbit with 3 onions, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, sliced, 2 cloves, a little mace, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, and a piece of celery. Add 1 ounce of butter, and then, when fried together, add 1 quart of beef stock. Cook 2 hours, strain it, taking out the bones and pressing the rest through a sieve. Add 1 dozen forcemeat balls, made of bread-crumbs, chopped ham, herbs, egg, and butter, and poached in stock, a tablespoonful of port wine, and salt and pepper.
LIVER SOUP. (Poland.)
Cut 1/2 pound of liver into slices, add flour, - a spoonful, - 1 ounce of butter and 1 onion, cut fine. Fry this and then pound it, add three slices of
stale bread, in crumbs, salt, and pepper and 3 pints of brown stock. Boil 20 minutes, press through a sieve, add yolk of 1 egg and some chopped parsley, and serve at once.
EEL SOUP. (Hamburg.)
Clean and cut into 2-inch pieces 2 pounds of eels. Add 1 pint of boiling water, salt, pepper, parsley, 1 carrot, 1 onion, and 1/2 cup of vinegar. Cook 20 minutes, then add 1 cup of finely sliced carrot, cooked in water until tender, and 1 cup of cooked peas, 2 quarts of white stock, parsley, some thyme, and sweet marjoram, one half of the eel broth and salt. Finally blend and add 1 cup of hot milk and the yolk of 1 egg and pour into a tureen over the eels. Pass with this a dish of stewed pears, as they do in Hamburg.
FRENCH GIBLET SOUP.
Chop the liver, wings, gizzard, and heart of a turkey, or 2 chickens fine, and fry them in 1 ounce of butter with 1 onion; add 1 quart of beef stock and 1 pint of hot water, salt, pepper, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 2 pieces of celery, and 2 ounces of rice. Cook for 1 hour and serve hot.
ENGLISH GIBLET SOUP.
Fry the chopped giblets in butter, as above, add 2 ounces of flour, stir, and when brown, add 1 quart
of beef stock, a bayleaf, some parsley, 3 pieces of cooked celery, cut into dice, 2 sliced hard-boiled eggs, a tablespoonful of sherry, and 6 forcemeat balls, made of the meat of the fowl, bread, herbs, and egg, poached in broth. Heat all well and serve hot.
OXCHEEK SOUP. (England.)
Fry 2 ounces of chopped ham with 1 onions and 2 carrots, minced, a bayleaf, some parsley, in 2 ounces of butter. Add 2 small heads of celery, 1 parsnip, and 2 slices of toast, a little mace, 1 clove, and 5 quarts of water, and the oxcheek cut into dice. Simmer gently 5 hours. Season to taste. It will make about 4 quarts of rich but economical broth.
OXTAIL SOUP. (England.)
This recipe and the one above were brought by French refugees who had learned, during exile and enforced poverty, how to make the best of their resources.
Cut 3 oxtails into pieces and steep them in water for 2 hours. Drain them, fry in 2 ounces of butter or suet, add salt, pepper, 2 carrots, 1 leek, 1 onion, a piece of celery, 1 clove, and some parsley. Simmer 3 hours, remove the bones, and put the meat into the soup, add 6 small white onions, fried in butter until tender, and serve with croutons.
CALF'S HEAD SOUP. (Recipe of the Hotel Star and Garter, Richmond, England.)
Parboil and bone a calf's head. Put the bones and the meat, cut up, in 4 quarts of water with 1 ounce of flour, salt, pepper, a bayleaf, some parsley, a clove, 1 carrot, and 1 onion. Cook 4 hours, take out the bones, cut the meat into dice, strain the soup, add the meat, 3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced, 1 dozen poached forcemeat balls, made of some meat, bread-crumbs, herbs, and egg, 1 glass of sherry and 1 lemon, cut in slices. Serve at once, hot.
BATTENBERG SOUP (as made at Windsor).
Cook 1 calf's foot, 3 pounds of soup beef, 3 carrots, 3 onions, 2 cloves, a piece of celery, parsley, and thyme, in 3 1/2 quarts of water for 4 hours. Take out the meat, remove the bones, put the meat, cut up, back in the soup, and set aside until next day. Skim off the fat-clarify it, as directed for frying or braising-strain the soup, add sufficient flour and butter to thicken it, the meat, 1 glass of sherry, salt, pepper, and 1 cup of hot cream.
REGENT'S SOUP. (England.)
Add to the bones, stuffing, gravy, and trimmings of cold roast duck or game, 2 quarts of beef stock, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 turnip, 1 head of celery all
cut up, 4 ounces of barley, parsley, thyme, and a clove. Simmer 2 hours, press through a sieve, season to taste, add the pounded yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, half a cup of boiling milk, and a glass of sherry.
PEPPER-POT.
This dish is peculiar to Spain, but it was imported to Jamaica, whence the negroes took the recipe north. In Philadelphia, there are several small restaurants, kept by darkies who are famous for pepper-pot.
To 3 quarts of water add 1 pint of vegetables, cut up, any kinds, mixed, you happen to have, in equal parts, using beans, peas, celery, carrots, onions, rice, lettuce, etc., also potatoes, add 1 pound of mutton, 1 pound of salt pork, and 1 pound of honeycomb tripe, cut up and fried in butter or suet, 1 bayleaf, 1 clove, parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram. Cook, closely covered, 3 hours. Set aside to cool, remove the fat, thicken with flour and butter and yolk of an egg, add salt and pepper, and serve very hot.
CLEAR GAME SOUP. (Poland.)
Cut up a calf's foot, add the bones and scraps and gravy of any cold game, duck, or rabbit, 2 ounces of chopped ham, 1 onion, 2 carrots, parsley, thyme, a bayleaf, a bit of mace, and a piece of celery.
Cook it with 2 quarts of water for 3 hours. Strain and clarify it with white of an egg, add salt, pepper, a glass of sherry, 1 hard-boiled egg, and 1 lemon, sliced.
PIGEON BROTH. (Boulogne.)
Lard and roast 4 fine pigeons, cut up the meat and put the bones and gravy in 1 quart of stock to cook. Chop the meat, with one onion, 1 pound of bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and 1 ounce of butter. Add to the rest and cook 1 hour. Press through a sieve, add 1 tablespoonful of port or sherry, salt, pepper, and some slices of toasted bread.
LOBSTER MULLIGATAWNY. (England.)
Cook 2 ounces of chopped ham, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 bayleaf, some parsley, 1 ounce of butter. Add two pounds of boiled lobster, cut into dice, 1 quart of veal stock, 1 spoonful of sherry, 1 ounce of flour mixed with 1 ounce of butter, a table-spoonful of curry powder, then cook 1/2 hour. Add the yolks of 2 eggs and 1/2 cup of hot cream, press through a sieve, and serve with a dish of boiled rice.
LENTEN BROTH (as made in the convents of France and Austria).
Cook 2 pounds of flounders or any white fish, cut up, with 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 turnip, 2 pieces of
celery, and a bunch of herbs, with 1 quart of water, for 2 hours. Take out the fish, remove skin and bones, and put the fish back again, add 1 pint of boiling milk, mixed with flour and butter, the yolk of an egg and juice of a lemon, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Press through a sieve and serve hot.
FISH BROTH (as made in Sweden).
Take the water in which a large fresh fish has been boiled, add any scraps or gravy, left over; reduce by boiling to 1 quart. Strain it, add 1 leek, 6 potatoes, 1 carrot, cut up, a bayleaf, and some parsley. Simmer for 1/2 hour, add 1 pint of hot white stock, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of sherry, and 12 oysters. Cook ten minutes more and serve.
TURKEY SOUP. (Rouen.)
Chop the dark meat of a turkey, add the gravy, bones, skin, and stuffing, 1 cup of bread-crumbs, an onion, some parsley, and 2 quarts of water. Cook 3 hours, add salt and pepper, nutmeg, 1/2 cup of boiling milk, mixed with a little butter and flour, and press through a sieve.
TCHI. (Russian Soup.)
Make 1 pound of sausage meat into small balls and fry them brown. Chop 2 large onions and
the heart of a cabbage, fry them in butter or suet, add 2 ounces flour, salt, pepper, parsley, and 3 pints of stock. Cook 1 hour, add the sausage balls, and 1 glass of tarragon vinegar.
CRÉCY SOUP. (Flanders.)
The Prince of Wales always eats a bowl of this every 26th of August, in memory of his ancestor, the Black Prince, and the battle of Crécy.
Wash, scrape, and slice 12 fine young carrots; cook in 1 ounce of butter with 1 spoonful of chopped ham or bacon, 1 onion, 1 turnip, a bay-leaf, parsley, and sweet marjoram. Stir while cooking, add 1 quart of stock, simmer two hours. Press through a sieve, add salt, pepper, and nutmeg and croutons.
CONSOMMÉ RACHEL. (France.)
This soup was created for the great actress who, like most people of genius, was a bonne fourchette.
Mix 1 cup of finely chopped and cooked chicken with sufficient white stock to make a paste. Season it and cook, like a custard, in a pan of water. Then cut in squares. Heat 1 quart of consomme with a thickening of flour and butter, 1 ounce of each, and the yolk of an egg and 1/2 cup of cream. Add salt, pepper, the chicken custard, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas.
POTAGE REUNION (invented for a banquet of a peace congress).
Boil 1 pound of cooked salmon in 2 quarts of white stock for 1/2 hour. Add salt and pepper and a blending of 1 cup of milk, some flour, butter, and yolk of an egg. Cook carefully ten minutes longer; add 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, a little nutmeg and salt. Press through a sieve, add 2 dozen small cooked oysters, and serve at once.
CRÊME FERNEUSE. (Paris.)
Peel and shred 4 large onions, 2 leeks, a bunch of herbs, 2 ounces ham or bacon, and fry in 2 ounces butter. Add 2 ounces boiled rice, 1 quart milk, and 1 quart of veal stock. Cook 20 minutes, add 1 piece of celery, 4 peeled and sliced potatoes, the same amount of turnips, and simmer 1 1/2 hours. Add 1 cup of boiling clam or oyster juice, salt, and pepper. Press through a sieve and serve at once.
POTAGE JACQUELINE. (Paris.)
Blend 1 cup of milk, yolks 3 eggs, and 1 ounce flour, over the fire. Add 1 1/2 quarts chicken broth, boiling hot, salt, pepper, parsley, then strain it and add one tablespoonful of boiled rice, the same of cooked green peas, carrots, and asparagus, cut up.
POTAGE BELLE FONTAINE. (Paris.)
Cook 1 quart good veal stock with 1 tablespoonful of chopped ham and the meat of a chicken, about 2 cupfuls, minced very finely. Simmer for 40 minutes, add salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of onion juice, then press through a sieve. Finally, add 1 cup of cooked and shredded cabbage.
CREAM of BARLEY SOUP. (Vienna.)
Cook 2 ounces barley, 1 onions, and 2 carrots, sliced, 1 bay leaf, and some parsley, for 3 hours, in 1 quarts veal or chicken stock. Add yolks of 2 eggs and 1 cup of hot milk, and press through a sieve. Season and add 1 cup of asparagus tips or green peas, already cooked.
ITALIAN SOUP.
Cook 1/2 pint of fine cornmeal - they call it semolina in Italy-with 1 ounce butter, 1 quart white stock, salt, pepper, and nutmeg for 1 hour. Add some parsley, stir and strain it, then add the yolk of an egg, blended with 1/2 pint hot milk. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese and croutons.
A FRENCH SOUP OF LEEKS.
In the provinces they make many savory soups with vegetables which contain all the mineral salts
we need so much for our nerves and blood, especially in the spring.
Trim and slice a large bundle of leeks, discard the greenest part of the tops and fry the rest in 2 ounces butter, add 2 ounces flour, then a pint of hot milk and a pint of white stock, parsley, salt, and pepper. Cook 40 minutes, add yolk of one egg, and serve with croutons.
GERMAN VEAL BROTH.
Cut up 2 pounds of the knuckle of veal and cook it in 3 quarts water, with 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 clove, salt, pepper, parsley, and thyme. Simmer for 4 hours. Cool, skim, and strain it. To 1 1/2 quarts of this stock add 1/4 pound cooked vermicelli, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg blended with half a cup of milk.
TURNIP SOUP. (Rouen.)
Pare and chop 1 quart of turnips, fry in 2 ounces butter or suet, add half a spoonful of sugar and some parsley, and 1 pint consommé. Cook 3/4 hour. Make six slices of toast, pour the turnips, well seasoned, into a dish, lay the toast over, dot with butter, and bake 1/2 hour. This is served in Rouen with a tureen of hot consommé and a tablespoonful given on each plate, but it can also
ONION SOUP WITH CHEESE, ITALY
(See page 19)An illustration of a meal with a plate of three toast, a bowl of soup, and two glasses of wine.
be made into one broth, cooking the turnips in the whole amount of stock, pressing them through a sieve and putting toast on top, when serving. Is excellent made of rabbit stock, instead of beef.
VEGETABLE SOUP (made in France, during Lent).
Fry 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 2 onions, 1/2 pint string beans, 1 leek, 1 cup of spinach with some parsley and a bit of celery, in 2 ounces butter. Add 1 ounce flour, 1 quart, and a pint of milk, 1 pint of stewed tomatoes, and a pinch of baking soda, also a blade of mace. Simmer for 2 hours, press through a sieve, add a teaspoonful of sugar, a little butter blended with flour, and 2 tablespoonfuls each of cooked rice and peas.
TOMATO SOUP (as made in Germany). Cut up 1 pound of veal from the breast, add the bones and 1 ounce butter, 1 onion, and 1 carrot, and 3 quarts water, parsley, salt, and pepper, 1 pint tomatoes and 1 green pepper, cut up and free from seeds. Cook 3 hours, add a spoonful of sugar and 1 cup of boiled rice.
ONION SOUP, WITH CHEESE. (Italy.)
This is a favorite soup at the French and Italian restaurants in New York. It is the "plat de jour" for Mondays.
Slice four large onions very thin, fry them in butter, and add them to 1 quart of well-flavored beef consommé. Put these in an earthen pipkin or marmite, and arrange on top four slices of toasted bread, on which sprinkle 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. Keep these hot, and serve in the dish, one slice of toast for each person. Small yellow bowls, such as are used for custards, etc., are generally passed with the soup, instead of ordinary soup plates. The foreign flavor depends greatly upon such trifles, imitating the inns of the old country.
CHESTNUT SOUP. {A French recipe.)
Boil 1 quart of large and sound chestnuts in salted water for 20 minutes; peel and chop them. Add 1 quart water, a teaspoonful of salt and one of sugar, and the rind of a lemon. Cook for half an hour, then rub through a sieve. Add 1 quarts white stock, a tablespoonful of butter blended with a tablespoonful of flour, pepper, and a little parsley. Stir for twenty minutes and rub through a sieve. Serve with toast.
CHESTNUT SOUP. (Italian style.)
Peel and blanch fifty large chestnuts. Cook them in sufficient veal stock to cover, with 2
tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper and nutmeg, for 2 hours. To every quart of this now add a pint of hot milk. Press through a sieve, add the yolk of one egg, a tablespoonful of sherry, and serve with croutons.
CHEESE SOUP. (Southern France.)
Peel, slice, and fry 6 onions with 1/4 pound of ham, minced, and 2 ounces butter. Add 1/2 pound bread-crumbs, 3 pints good white stock, - preferably chicken, - salt, pepper, and a blade of mace. Cook for 1/2 hour, add 1/4 pound grated Parmesan cheese, and yolks of 1 eggs. Strain it by pressing it through a sieve, and serve at once.
CUCUMBER SOUP. (Greece.)
Peel 4 large cucumbers, slice them, and remove the seeds. Fry with 1 ounce butter, add salt, pepper, a blade of mace, 1 pint hot milk, and 1 quart white stock. Cook 1 1/2 hours. Thicken with flour and butter and press through a sieve.
OYSTER SOUP. (A French recipe.)
Drain 1 quart of oysters and season with salt, pepper, a blade of mace, a bayleaf, and 1 ounce butter. Add 1/2 pint of white stock and cook fifteen minutes. Remove the oysters and herbs,
and to the stock add the juice of the oysters and 1 pint of hot milk, the yolk of 1 egg, some parsley, and a blending of flour and butter. Put in the oysters, and after stirring a few moments serve hot.
ONION BROTH. (Dieppe.)
Parboil 6 large onions, slice them, and toss in 1 ounce of butter with salt, pepper, and some parsley. Add 1 1/2 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 quart of white stock, made from fish or chicken, also 1 pint of hot milk. Press through a sieve and serve with slices of toast.
POTATO SOUP. (Normandy.)
Parboil, slice, and pare ten large potatoes. Drain them and add 1 onions, sliced, 2 bits of celery, and 1 ounce butter. Cook for 10 minutes, add 4 slices of stale bread, and 1 quart of white stock. Simmer for 2 hours, add salt, pepper, and nutmeg, 1 pint of hot milk blended with flour and butter. Press through a sieve and serve with croutons.
POTATO SOUP. (Geneva.)
Parboil and pare 6 large potatoes, fry them in 1 ounce of butter, add salt, pepper, parsley, a blade of mace, and a bayleaf, also 1/4 pound of chopped ham. Cover with 1 quart consomme, add a teaspoonful
of sugar, 1 of butter, 1 of flour, and the yolks of 2 eggs. Press through a sieve.
COD SOUP. (Brittany.)
To the flesh of three fine medium-sized cod, add 3 quarts veal stock, parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, and a bayleaf, also an onion. Cook 2 hours, press through a sieve, add flour blended with butter, salt, pepper, 1 glass of white wine, and 1 dozen oysters. Simmer for 10 minutes and then serve.
TURNIP SOUP. (Northern Italy.)
Pare, slice, and fry 1 1/2 quarts of turnips, with 1 tablespoonful sugar, 2 ounces butter, and 2 ounces flour. Add 1 pint of tomatoes, parsley, bayleaf, and thyme. Simmer 1 hour, press through a sieve. Add 1 cup of hot beef stock and a table-spoonful of grated cheese, salt, and pepper.
CREAM of RICE. (Paris.)
Wash, drain, and parboil 1/2 pound of rice; add 1 quart of chicken broth, salt, pepper, and parsley, and a tablespoonful of chopped onions. Cook 1 hour and press through a sieve; add yolks of 2 eggs mixed with 2 tablespoonfuls cream and 6 forcemeat balls and some asparagus tips, both cooked previously. The balls must be made of chicken and bread-crumbs.
CREAM of CELERY. (Paris.)
Cut off the tips of one head of celery and mash it with a potato-masher, then boil it twenty minutes in 1 pint of chicken broth. Blend 2 tablespoonfuls of flour with the same amount of butter, add salt and pepper, stir in 1 pint rich, boiling milk and then strain it carefully.
BLACK BEAN SOUP. (Spain.)
Brown one onion with 1 ounce butter, add 1 pint of black beans soaked over night and drained, 1/2 a shin of beef and 3 quarts of water, 1 teaspoonful of allspice and cloves, tied in a bit of muslin, some parsley and thyme. Cook 4 hours, press through a sieve, add salt and pepper, 1 hard-boiled egg, and 1 lemon, sliced, and 1 glass of sherry.
PURÉE OF BROAD BEANS. (Brittany.)
Cook 1 1/2 pints of fresh Lima beans in salted water with 1 ounce chopped ham, some parsley, a clove, and an onion. When tender, drain and add 1 ounce butter and strain the liquor and put it aside. Press the beans through a sieve, add 1 pint of stock, 1 pint hot milk, salt, and pepper. It is best made with chicken or veal broth. Reduce the liquor by boiling and add to the soup. Serve with croutons.
PURÉE OF STRING BEANS. (Italy.)
Pick and string and cut up 1 pint of beans, parboil, and strain them, and add 1 pint white stock and 1 ounces butter mixed with 2 ounces flour. Cook 20 minutes, season, and press through a sieve. Add 1 cup of hot cream or rich milk and serve.
POTAGE ST. GERMAIN. (France.)
Cook 1 quart fresh peas in water to cover, with some parsley, 1 leek, and 1/2 ounce butter, added. Press all through a sieve. Stir in 1 pint of hot stock, chicken or veal, with yolks of 2 eggs, pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. Add 1/2 a tea-spoonful of sugar and 1 cup of boiling cream.
LEMON SOUP. (France.)
This is a very dainty soup and deserves to be better known.
Heat 1 1/2 quarts of chicken stock and make some forcemeat balls of a little cold chopped chicken, bread-crumbs, herbs, and yolk of an egg. Poach them in the stock and keep warm. Now thicken the stock with 1/2 cup of milk or cream, mixed with the yolks of 3 eggs, salt, and pepper, the juice of a lemon and a pinch of nutmeg. Serve with slices of toast. A convent recipe, dating to the days before the Revolution.
CREAM of LETTUCE. (France.)
Wash and drain three large heads of lettuce, chop them, and fry them with 1/4 pound of butter. Add salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley, 5 ounces of rice, and 2 quarts of white stock. Cook for 45 minutes, press through a sieve, add 1 pint of boiling milk, and serve with croutons.
SORREL SOUP. (Provincial France.)
This recipe comes from the country, but the homesick students can always find sorrel soup in the little restaurants of the Latin Quarter.
Pick sufficient sorrel to make a pint of puree, chop it, and add 1 ounce butter; cook, stirring well, for 20 minutes. Add 1 ounce flour and press through a sieve; let it cook again, with 1 pint hot milk and 1 pint of stock; season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg and stir in the yolks of 2 eggs. Strain it again and serve with croutons.
ENDIVE SOUP. (Alsace-Lorraine.)
Trim and parboil 4 heads of chicory, drain it and chop it very fine. Add 1 ounces butter, salt, pepper, and mace, and 1 ounces flour. Then add 1 quart of veal stock and 1 cup of boiling milk. Cook for 1 hour, add yolks of 2 eggs, beaten in 1/2 cup of milk, and strain it through a sieve. Serve at once.
LENTIL SOUP. (Bavaria.)
Soak 1 pint of lentils overnight, drain them, and add 1 quart of stock and 1 pint of water, some parsley, 2 leeks, a bit of celery, 2 ounces of chopped ham, an onion, and a carrot. Cook 3 hours, rub through a sieve, add the juice of a lemon, salt, and pepper. If not thick and smooth, add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed with as much butter.
VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP. (England.)
Vegetable marrow is a species of squash, and the latter is a good substitute.
Peel and slice a large squash; fry it in 2 ounces butter, with salt, pepper, and 4 ounces of flour. Add 1 quart of milk and 1 pint of strong veal or chicken stock, some parsley, onion, and a carrot. Cook for 1 hour, press through a sieve, add a pinch of sugar, a tablespoonful of butter, and serve with croutons.
TUSCANY SOUP. (Italy.)
Peel and slice and fry 2 egg-plants, with 1 ounce of butter and as much flour, salt, pepper, a blade of mace, 3 large tomatoes, 4 mushrooms, some parsley, and then add 1 quart of consomme. Cook for 1 hour, press through a sieve, add 2 table-spoonfuls of grated cheese and 2 ounces of cooked 27
macaroni. In Italy, the above mixture is baked in a dish, and a spoonful is added to every plate of consomme when serving, but the recipe as here given is better suited to American tastes.
CABBAGE SOUP. (Sicily.)
Trim and slice a nice head of cabbage, parboil it, and drain it and chop it finely. Fry it in an ounce of butter; add a tablespoonful of flour, salt, pepper, and 1 quart of veal broth. Simmer 1 hour, press it through a sieve, add 1 pint of hot milk, season it, and serve with croutons.
GREEK BROTH.
Cut up a shoulder of mutton, or the neck, take out the bones and add to both meat and bones 2 quarts of water, 1/2 pint split peas, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped ham, 1 onion, 1 carrot, some parsley and thyme. Cook 3 hours, remove the bones, cut up the meat and press the rest through a sieve. Season to taste and return the meat to the broth.
PRUSSIAN SOUP. (A national dish.)
Cut up and fry in 3 ounces of suet 2 heads of celery, 1 carrots, 1 turnips, 1 onions, 2 leeks, and 1 pound of potatoes. Add 1/2 pound of beef cut into dice, cover and steam, but do not let it burn. Then add 2 quarts of water, 1 pint of dried beans
soaked overnight, and a bunch of herbs. Cook 4 hours, press through a sieve, and add salt and pepper.
PUCHERO. (Spanish Soup.)
This also is a national dish, common to rich and poor.
Cut up three pounds of beef, 1 pig's foot, 1/2 pound of ham, the giblets of a fowl, and three handfuls of garbanzos, or chick peas. Simmer 2 hours, add a slice of pumpkin, free from seeds, 1 large carrot, 1 head of lettuce, 1/2 a cabbage, and a bunch of herbs. Cook 1 hour longer, add 6 small sausages, and boil till they are done. Strain and thicken the soup and serve the meat and vegetables, neatly arranged on a separate dish.
GARBURE. (Another national dish of Spain.)
Parboil, peel, and slice a small white cabbage, drain it, and add 1/4 pound of sliced bacon, salt, pepper, a clove, 1 leek, 1 carrot, 1 onion, and 6 pieces of celery. Stir these with, enough suet or butter to brown them, add two quarts of good stock, and cook for two hours, or as much as will cover the meat and vegetables. Make a forcemeat with 1/4 pound of stale bread, butter, stock, and herbs, and line a dish with it, arranging the vegetables, etc., in layers with forcemeat between. Add
enough stock to moisten all and have forcemeat and a layer of grated cheese on top. Bake in the oven half an hour and serve with a tureen of hot consomme. When helping the latter, put a table-spoonful in each plate.
HUNGARIAN SOUP.
Chop 2 cups of cold roast duck with 1 ounce of parsley, bayleaf, and thyme. Fry in 1 ounce of butter, add 1 ounce flour, then 1 quart of beef stock, and 1/2 pint of white wine or cider. Cook 1 hour. Rub through a sieve, add some pieces of duck and 1 green pepper, sliced and free from seeds and fried in butter, also 1 cup of cooked barley, salt, and pepper to taste.
MANNHEIM SOUP. (Germany.)
To 1 quart of stock add sufficient tomatoes and herbs to make a cream when strained, heat it again, and add 1 ounce of rice and 1/2 pound of cooked salmon or shrimps chopped fine, an onion, a carrot, and thyme and parsley. Cook 1/2 hour or longer, rub through a sieve, and serve with a plate of boiled rice.
CHERRY SOUP. (Berlin.)
Trim and stone 1 pint of red cherries, add I pint of water, juice and grated rind of a lemon, cinnamon,
sugar to taste, and 3 tablespoonfuls of wine or cordial, claret is the best. Cook until done and serve, hot or very cold, with a plate of buttered toast. It will take about half an hour to cook, mashing the fruit well. These fruit and wine soups are favorite hot weather fare in Austria and Germany.
APPLE SOUP.
Pare and stew 8 fine apples in 1/2 pint of water. Add sugar to taste, press through a sieve, flavor with lemon juice and nutmeg and add a tablespoonful of cornstarch. Cook about ten minutes, add, when cool, 1 pint of white wine or cider, and pour it over 4 apples, sliced and cooked in syrup.
STRAWBERRY SOUP.
Wash and drain 1/2 pound of strawberries, sprinkle them with sugar, set them aside. Make a syrup of 1 pound of sugar and 3 pints of water, add 1 1/2, pounds of strawberries and the juice of a lemon. Mash, strain, and cool this; add 1/2 pint of light wine and the sugared berries. Serve very cold.
WINE SOUP.
Mix rapidly on the fire 1 quart of white wine, 1 quart of water, 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch, yolks of 6 eggs, juice and rind of a lemon, and 4 tablespoonfuls
of sugar. Stir it, but do not let it boil for 20 minutes. Then add the beaten whites sweetened with sugar, and put on ice to cool.
CHOCOLATE SOUP. (Italy)
Boil 2 ounces of grated chocolate, a spoonful of vanilla, sugar to taste, and one quart of milk, until smooth. Add the yolks of 4 eggs well beaten, take off and pour over slices of stale sponge cake. Serve cold.
COLEVA. (All Souls Broth. Greece.)
Boil 1 quart of milk, add 1/2 pint of cooked barley, 1/2 cup each of washed raisins and currants, 1 cup of chopped raw apples and nutmeg, sugar and cinnamon to taste. Cook for 1/2 hour and serve hot.
The peasants are very fond of this, which they make and put in dishes on the graves of the dead, All Souls' Eve, for the yearly feast of the departed.
CHAPTER TWO-- Fish, Eggs, and Sauces
SHRIMP CUTLETS. (Vaucluse.)
CHOP and mince 1 1/2 pounds of freshly boiled shrimps. Melt 2 ounces of butter and add 2 ounces of flour, then 1 cup of boiling cream, also the minced fish. Stir and boil and take off the fire, add the yolks of 3 eggs and a pinch of nutmeg, salt, pepper, and some chopped parsley. Pour into a buttered pan 1/2 inch deep ; when cold, cut into shape, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in boiling lard. Stick a small piece of macaroni, to imitate a bone, at the end of each cutlet and serve with a good sauce, Tartare or Bechamel.
SHRIMPS, ST. JACQUES. (Trouville.)
Shell 1 quart of boiled shrimps, chop them, and fry in 1 ounce of butter with an onion. Add 1 cup of milk, salt, pepper, parsley, and the yolk of 1 egg. Stir, but do not let it boil. Pour into buttered dishes or clam shells, cover with bread-crumbs and bake till brown. Serve with sliced lemon.
SHRIMPS, BORDELAISE.
Cut into dice 1/2 can or 1 cup of shrimps, add 1 tablespoonful of chopped ham, 1 ounce flour,
and 1 ounce of butter, mixed, 1 cup of stock or consomme, 1 tablespoonful of tomato sauce or mushroom ketchup, 1 slice of chopped onion, a bayleaf, and 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Cook carefully until the sauce is smooth and thick, adding salt and pepper.
INDIAN PUFFS. (England.)
Pick and chop finely 1 pint of freshly boiled shrimps, add a tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of curry powder, and as much cream or white stock as will make it a smooth paste. Roll sufficient pie-crust very thin, cut into 4-inch squares, fill with this, fold in triangles, and fry them in boiling fat. Serve on a napkin garnished with parsley.
CRABS (as cooked in Marseilles).
Boil, pick, and chop into dice 6 large crabs, fry in 1 ounces of butter with 1 tablespoonful of minced onion, 1 ounce flour, 1 green pepper, free from seed, and 4 pods of ochra, all cut into dice, add some parsley, 1 cup of white stock, and 2 table-spoonfuls of white wine. Cook 20 minutes, season to taste, and serve with a border of boiled rice.
SOUFFLE OF LOBSTER. (Nice.)
Blend 1 ounce of butter with 2 ounces of flour; add 1 gill of milk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and
1/2 pound of cooked and chopped lobster, then the yolks of 3 eggs, 6 oysters, chopped fine, a gill of cream, whipped stiff, and the beaten whites of 3 eggs. Pour into a buttered mould, steam like a custard for 1/2 an hour, turn out carefully and cover with a white sauce, containing mushrooms.
LOBSTER, EN CASSEROLE. (Southern France.)
Boil, pick, and cut up a fine large lobster; fry it in olive oil, adding onions and carrots, 2 of each, a bayleaf, some thyme, parsley, and half a glass of sherry or white wine. Be sure to rub the casserole or earthen saucepan with a bit of garlic before putting in the ingredients. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring it, then take out the lobster, add 1/2 cup of stewed tomatoes to the sauce and as much consommé. Cook for 10 minutes longer, put in the lobster, and serve in the casserole with slices of toast and seasoning to taste.
LOBSTER OMELETTE. (Paris.)
Chop finely the meat of a lobster, 2 pounds, add 1 pint of white broth, thyme, bayleaf, and parsley, the juice of a lemon, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. Cook for 10 minutes, season it, and press through a fine sieve. Have ready a light omelette, and pour this across it before folding it and around it, when folded, on the dish.
LOBSTER, ST. STEPHAN.
Cook and cut up a large lobster, sauté it in olive oil, add parsley, salt, pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped onion. Add cup of white stock and 1 tablespoonful of Chablis, cook 10 minutes, and serve hot.
LOBSTER AND OYSTER PLANT MOUSSE. (Paris.)
Boil, pound, and press through a sieve the flesh of a lobster, add 1 tablespoonful of mayonnaise, the same of melted aspic jelly, and 1/2 pint of whipped cream. Pour into a border mould and set on ice to harden. Boil and cut into dice sufficient salsify to fill the centre when turned out, and mix it with some mayonnaise dressing. Serve cold.
LOBSTER. (Mariner's Style.)
Boil and cut into dice the meat of a lobster, add 2 onions, chopped fine, a bit of garlic, 2 ounces of butter, and then 1/2 cup of white stock, mixed with the yolks of two eggs. Add parsley, salt, and pepper, cook carefully 20 minutes, add a spoonful of lemon juice and a glass of white wine. Serve In the casserole in which it was cooked.
SHRIMPS (as cooked in Nancy).
Parboil, cut into dice, and fry 18 shrimps with 1/2 ounce of butter and 1 ounce of chopped ham.
Add 1 cup of white broth, parsley, salt and pepper, and the juice of a lemon. Pour into a dish over squares of toast.
LOBSTER (à la Careme).
Boil, pick, and mince the meat of a large lobster, add salt, pepper, lemon juice, or a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 2 ounces of butter, as much flour, and 1/2 cup each of cream and stock. Cover with bread-crumbs and bake 1/2 hour.
BOUILLABAISSE. (Marseilles.)
Cut up into pieces and remove the bones from 3 pounds of fish,--say, one pound each of cod, halibut, and bluefish, although any fresh fish in due proportion will answer. Add 6 shrimps or 1 lobster or 1 crabs, cooked, and cut into large pieces, 1/2 pint of olive oil; fry lightly, and add 1 lemon and 2 tomatoes, 1 onion and 1 carrot, all sliced, 1 pinch of saffron, --as much as lies on a ten-cent piece,--a bayleaf, and some parsley. A clove of garlic is used, unless thecasserole is rubbed with it before cooking. Stir for 10 minutes; add 1 cup of stock and 1 glass of white wine or cider. Cook 15 minutes longer, pour out into a bowl, place slices of toast in the casserole, and return the fish and vegetables, allowing the sauce
sufficient time to soak into the toast, and adding salt and pepper to taste.
XMAS CARP (as cooked in Poland and Italy on December 24, for supper).
Clean and scale the fish, --any white fish may be substituted, --cut it into slices, and fry it with onion, parsley, thyme, salt, and pepper. Add 1/2 pint of white wine to every 2 pounds of fish and cook for 10 minutes, then put the dish in the oven and bake for half an hour or until tender. Add 2 lemons sliced, and a cupful each of chopped almonds and currants. Cook long enough to soften the latter, adding stock if not moist enough, and serve in a deep dish.
FISH (as cooked in Russia Easter Eve).
Chop sufficient cold fish, boiled previously in water and vinegar, with onion, carrot, and herbs, then freed from bones and skin. Mix with as much mayonnaise dressing as will cover and set on ice 1 hours. Melt some aspic jelly and whip it very stiff, and fill a mould shaped like a cross in alternate layers of jelly and fish. Set aside to harden and turn it out on a bed of lettuce leaves garnished with a border of whole hard-boiled eggs. The originality of this quaint dish lies entirely in
the shape of the mould, which must be a square or Greek-cross shape.
MATELOTE OF FISH. (Normandy.)
Skin and slice 2 pounds of fresh fish, either all one sort or several kinds mixed. Fry it in a ounces of butter with 20 white and very small onions till brown. Add 1 1/2 ounces of flour, salt, and pepper, 6 sliced mushrooms, and a spoonful of lemon juice, a bunch of herbs, 1/2 pint of red wine, and 1/2 pint of consomme. Cook 1/2 an hour, season it to taste, and serve in the casserole. It is a sort of northern bouillabaisse.
BOURRIDE. (Marseilles.)
Cut up and fry 2 1/2 pounds of salt water fish, with a crab, a bit of garlic, parsley, thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, a glass of hot water, and a glass of cider. Boil 20 minutes, add a tablespoonful of flour an ounce of butter, the juice of a lemon, the yolks of 1 eggs, pepper, and salt. Add the outside of a green pepper, chopped fine, and the pods of 2 ochra. Cook ten minutes longer, carefully, and serve in the same dish, hot.
BRANDADE. (MONTPELLIER.)
Soak for three days 1 1/2 pounds of salt cod renewing the water often. Drain it, cover with
hot water, and boil 15 minutes. Remove the skin and bones and chop the fish, then fry it with 2 chopped onions and 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Cook 10 minutes, pound this all well, return to the fire and add the juice of 2 lemons, a tablespoonful of oil, and twice as much cream. Beat and stir and season it, adding mace and parsley and the juice of one more lemon. When perfectly smooth and well cooked, pile it on a plate and serve with a white sauce containing oysters, mushrooms, and shrimps.
CARP (as cooked in Coblentz).
Clean and cut into strips 1 pounds of carp or any white fish, add one glass of claret, 1/2 pint of consomme, salt, pepper, some parsley, thyme, and a clove, 1 cup of chopped mushrooms, 1 carrot, and 1 onion, shredded. Cover, and let it simmer for an hour. Add a tablespoonful of capers and serve, poured on slices of toast.
MACKEREL, BAKED IN CREAM. (Austria.)
Skin, bone, and slice a large fish into four pieces, season it and fry it in butter. Drain it and keep warm. Mix 1/2 pint of white stock or Bechamel sauce with two tablespoonfuls of sherry and the yolk of an egg. Stir over the fire, pour it over
the fish, adding chopped parsley, onion, and bread-crumbs over the top of the dish. Bake till brown.
MACKEREL. (Germany.)
Clean and score across the back a large fresh fish, add two cups of hot water, a teaspoonful of salt, an onion, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Cook 40 minutes, drain it, reduce the sauce, strain it, and add 1 dozen capers; cook a few minutes longer and pour over the fish.
PICKLED MACKEREL. (Germany.)
Skin, bone, and cut into pieces 4 pounds of fresh mackerel, put it in layers in a stone crock, sprinkling herbs, pepper and salt and bayleaves between each, using 1 tablespoonful, cut fine, of all the herbs. Press down, cover with vinegar, and seal air-tight. Bake in a moderate oven 6 hours. It will keep several days in a cool place. Good for supper.
STAR-GAZY PIE. (Cornwall.)
Clean and scale some fresh mackerel, season it with parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, and bay-leaves. Butter a dish and line it with bread-crumbs, put in the fish, in layers, with herbs and crumbs between. Add the yolks of 4 eggs beaten
with 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, cover with a layer of thinly cut bacon and a very light pie-crust. Bake 2 hours and serve, hot or cold.
FINDON HADDIE SAVORY. (Scotland.)
Dip the fish in boiling water, and take out all the bones and skin. Pound the meat in a mortar, add a little pepper, salt, and a spoonful of lemon juice, also 1 ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of cream. Cook and stir until thick and pour over slices of
