[Illustration: An illustration of a woman in a kitchen stirring something on the stove.]

SCIENCE
IN THE
KITCHEN

[Illustration: An illustration of two big buildings.]

SCIENCE
IN THE
KITCHEN.
A SCIENTIFIC TREATISE ON
FOOD SUBSTANCES AND THEIR
DIETETIC PROPERTIES,
TOGETHER WITH
A PRACTICAL EXPLANATION
OF THE
PRINCIPLES OF HEALTHFUL COOKERY,
AND A LARGE NUMBER OF ORIGINAL, PALATABLE, AND WHOLESOME RECIPES.

COPYRIGHTED 1892, BY MRS. E. E. KELLOGG.[unclear]

> PREFACE.

THE interest in scientific cookery, particularly in cookery as related to health, has manifestly increased in this country within the last decade, as is evidenced by the success which has attended every intelligent effort toward the establishment of schools for instruction in cookery in various parts of the United States. While those in charge of these schools have presented to their pupils excellent opportunities for the acquirement of dexterity in the preparation of toothsome and tempting viands, but little attention has been paid to the science of dietetics, or what might be termed the hygiene of cookery.

A little less than ten years ago the Sanitarium at Battle Creek, Mich., established an experimental kitchen and a school of cookery under the supervision of Mrs. Dr. Kellogg, since which time, researches in the various lines of cookery and dietetics have been in constant progress in the experimental kitchen, and regular sessions of the school of cookery have been held. The school has gradually gained in popularity, and the demand for instruction has become so great that classes are in session during almost the entire year.

During this time, Mrs. Kellogg has had constant oversight of the cuisine of both the Sanitarium and the Sanitarium Hospital, preparing bills of fare for the general and diet tables, and supplying constantly new methods and original recipes to meet the changing and growing demands of an institution numbering always from 500 to 700 inmates.

These large opportunities for observation, research, and experience, have gradually developed a system of cookery, the leading features of which are so entirely novel and so much in advance of the methods heretofore in use, that it may be justly styled, A New System of Cookery. It is a singular and Lamentable fact, the evil consequences of which are wide-spread, that the preparation of food, although involving both chemical and physical processes, has been less advanced by the results of modern researches and discoveries in chemistry and physics, than any other department of human industry. Iron-mining, glass-making, even the homely art of brick-making, and many of the operations of the farm and the dairy, have been advantageously modified by the results of the fruitful labors of modern scientific investigators. But the art of cookery is at least a century behind in the march of scientific progress. The mistress of the kitchen is still groping her way amid the uncertainties of mediæval methods, and daily bemoaning the sad results of the "rule of thumb." The chemistry of cookery is as little known to the average housewife as were the results of modern chemistry to the old alchemists; and the


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attempt to make wholesome, palatable, and nourishing food by the methods commonly employed, is rarely more successful than that of those misguided alchemists in transmitting lead and copper into silver and gold.

The new cookery brings order from out the confusion of mixtures and messes, often incongruous and incompatible, which surrounds the average cook, by the elucidation of the principles which govern the operations of the kitchen, with the same certainty with which the law of gravity rules the planets.

Those who have made themselves familiar with Mrs. Kellogg's system of cookery, invariably express themselves as trebly astonished: first, at the simplicity of the methods employed; secondly, at the marvelous results both as regards palatableness, wholesomeness, and attractiveness; thirdly, that it has never occurred to them "to do this way before."

This system does not consist simply of a rehash of what is found in every cook book, but of new methods, which are the result of the application of the scientific principles of chemistry and physics to the preparation of food in such a manner as to make it the most nourishing, the most digestible, and the most inviting to the eye and to the palate.

Those who have tested the results of Mrs. Kellogg's system of cookery at the Sanitarium tables, or in their own homes through the instruction of her pupils, have been most enthusiastic in their expressions of satisfaction and commendation. Hundreds of original recipes which have appeared in her department in Good Health, "Science in the Household," have been copied into other journals, and are also quite largely represented in the pages of several cook books which have appeared within the last few years.

The great success which attended the cooking school in connection with the Bay View Assembly (the Michigan Chautauqua), as well as the uniform success which has met the efforts of many of the graduates of the Sanitarium school of cookery who have undertaken to introduce the new system through the means of cooking classes in various parts of the United States, has created a demand for a fuller knowledge of the system.

This volume is the outgrowth of the practical and experimental work, and the popular demand above referred to. Its preparation has occupied the entire leisure time of the author during the last five or six years. No pains or expense has been spared to render the work authoritative on all the questions upon which it treats, and in presenting it to the public, the publishers feel the utmost confidence that the work will meet the highest expectations of those who have waited impatiently for its appearance during the months which have elapsed since its preparation was first announced.

PUBLISHERS.

> TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Page.

Foods............................................. 25

Properties of food--Food elements--Uses of food elements--Proper combinations of food--Proper proportion of food elements--Condiments--Relation of condiments to intemperance--Variety in food--Table topics.

The Digestion of Foods............................ 35

The digestive organs--The digestion of a mouthful of bread--Salivary digestion--Stomach digestion--Intestinal digestion--Other uses of the digestive fluids--Absorption--Liver digestion--Time required for digestion--Dr. Beaumont's table made from experiments on Alexis St. Martin--Hygiene of digestion--Hasty eating--Drinking freely at meals--Eating between meals--Simplicity in diet--Eating when tired--Eating too much--How much food is enough--Excess of certain food elements--Deficiency of certain food elements--Food combinations--Table topics.

Cookery........................................... 45

Evils of bad cookery--The principles of scientific cookery--Fuels--Making fires--Care of fires--Methods of cooking--Roasting--Broiling or grilling--Baking--The oven thermometer--Boiling--The boiling point of water--How to raise the boiling point of water--Action of hot and cold water upon foods--Steaming--Stewing--Frying--Evaporation--Measuring--Comparative table of weights and measures--Mixing the material--Stirring--Beating--Kneading--Temperature--Cooking utensils--Porcelain ware--Granite ware--Galvanized iron ware--Tests for lead--Adulterated tin--Table topics.

The Household Workshop............................ 66

Description of a convenient kitchen--The kitchen furniture--Cupboards--A convenient kitchen table--The kitchen sink--Drainpipes--Stoves and ranges--Oil and gas stoves--


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The "Aladdin Cooker"--Kitchen utensils--The tin closet--The dish closet--The pantry--The storeroom--The refrigerator--The water supply--Test for pure water--Filters--Cellars--Kitchen conveniences--The steam cooker--The vegetables press--The lemon drill--The handy waiter--The wall cabinet--The percolater holder--Kneading table--Dish-towel rack--Kitchen brushes--Vegetable brush--Table topics.

The Grains, or Cereals, and their Preparation..... 76

General properties of grains--Cooking of grains--The double boiler--Table showing amount of liquid, and time required for cooking different grains--Grains for breakfast--Grains an economical food--Wheat--Description of a grain of wheat--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Pearl wheat, Cracked wheat, Rolled wheat, Boiled wheat, Wheat with raisins, Wheat with fresh fruit, Molded wheat--Finer mill products of wheat--Recipes: Farina, Farina with fig sauce, Farina with fresh fruit, Molded farina, Graham grits, Graham mush, Graham mush No. 2, Graham mush No. 3, Graham mush with dates, Plum porridge, Graham apple mush, Granola mush, Granola fruit mush, Granola peach mush, Bran jelly--The oat, description of--Oatmeal--Brose--Budrum--Flummery--Preparation and cooking of oats--Recipes: Oatmeal mush, Oatmeal fruit mush, Oatmeal blancmange, Oatmeal Blancmange No. 2, Jellied Oatmeal porridge--Barley, description of--Gofio--Scotch milled or pot barley--Pearl barley--Suggestions for cooking barley--Recipes: Baked barley, Pearl barley with raisins, Pearl barley with lemon sauce--Rice, description of--Rice paddie--Preparation and cooking of rice--Recipes: Steamed rice, Boiled rice, Rice with fig sauce, Orange rice, Rice with raisins, Rice with peaches, Browned rice--Rye, description of--Rye meal--Rye flour--Recipes: Rolled rye, Rye mush--Maize, or Indian corn, description of--Suggestions for making corn--Recipes: Corn meal mush, Corn meal mush with fruit, Corn meal cubes, Browned mush, Samp, Cerealine flakes, Hulled corn, Coarse hominy, Fine hominy or grits, Popped corn--Macaroni, select macaroni--To prepare and cook macaroni--Recipes: Homemade macaroni, Boiled macaroni, Macaroni with cream sauce, Macaroni with tomato sauce, Macaroni baked with granola, Eggs and macaroni--Table topics.

Breadstuffs and Bread-making..................... 109

The origin of bread--Chestnut bread--Peanut bread--Bread-stuffs--Qualities necessary for good bread--Superiority of bread over meat--Graham flour--Wheat meal--Whole-wheat or entire wheat flour--How to select flour--To keep flour--Deleterious adulterations of flour--Tests for adulterated flour--Chemistry of bread-making--Bread made light by fermentation--The process of fermentation--Fermentative agents--Yeast--Homemade yeasts--How to keep yeast--Bitter yeast--Tests for yeast--Starting the bread--Proportion of materials needed--Utensils--When to set the sponge--Temperature for bread-making--How to set the sponge--Lightness of the bread--Kneading the dough--How to manipulate the dough in kneading--How to test the heat of an oven--Care of the oven--How to test the heat of an oven--Care of bread after baking--Best method of keeping bread--Test of good fermented bread--Whole-wheat and Graham breads--Toast--Liquid yeast--Recipes: Raw potato yeast, Raw potato yeast No. 2, Hop yeast, Boiled potato yeast, Boiled potato yeast No. 2,--Fermented breads--Recipes: Milk bread with wheat flour, Vienna bread, Water bread, Fruit roll, Fruit loaf, Potato bread, Pulled bread, Whole-wheat bread, Whole-wheat bread No. 2, Miss B's one-rising bread, Potato bread with whole-wheat flour, Rye bread, Graham bread, Graham bread No. 2, Graham bread No. 3, Raised biscuit, Rolls Imperial rolls, French rolls, Crescents, Parker House rolls, Braids, Brown bread, Date bread, Fruit loaf with Graham and whole-wheat flour, Raised corn bread, Corn cake, Oatmeal bread, Milk yeast bread, Graham salt rising bread--Unfermented breads--Passover cakes--Tortillas--Evils of chemical bread raising--Rochelle salts in baking powders--General directions--Gem irons--Perforated sheet-iron pan for rolls--Unfermented batter breads--Unfermented dough breads--Recipes: Whole-wheat puffs, Whole-wheat puffs No. 2, Whole-wheat puffs No. 3, Graham puffs, Graham puffs No. 2., Currant puffs, Graham gems, Crusts, Rye puffs, Rye puffs No. 2, Rye gems, Blueberry gems, Hominy gems, Sally Lunn gems, Corn puffs, Corn puffs No. 2, Corn puffs No. 3, Corn puffs No. 4, Corn dodgers, Corn dodgers No. 2, Cream corn cakes, Hoe cakes, Oatmeal gems, Snow gems, Pop overs, Granola gems, Bean gems, Breakfast rolls, Sticks, Cream Graham


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rolls, Corn mush rolls, Fruit rolls, Cream mush rolls, Beaten biscuit, Cream crisps, Cream crisps No. 2, Graham crisps, Oatmeal crisps, Graham crackers, Fruit crackers,--Table topics.

Fruits........................................... 164

Chemical constituents of--Value as nutrients--Structure of fruits--The jelly-producing principle--Digestibility of fruits--Unripe fruits--Table of fruit analysis--Ripe fruit and digestive disorders--Over-ripe and decayed fruits--Dangerous bacteria on unwashed fruit--Free use of fruit lessens desire for alcoholic stimulants--Beneficial use of fruits in disease--Apples--The pear--The quince--The peach--The plum--The prune--The apricot--The cherry--The olive; its cultivation and preservation--The date, description and uses of--The orange--The lemon--The sweet lemon or bergamot--The citron--The lime--The grape-fruit--The pomegranate, its antiquity--The grape--Zante currants--The gooseberry--The currant--The whortleberry--The blue berry--The cranberry--The strawberry--The raspberry--The blackberry--The mulberry--The melon--The fig, its antiquity and cultivation--The banana--Banana meal--The pineapple--Fresh fruit for the table--Selection of fruit for the table--Directions for packing, handling, and keeping fruits--Recipes: To keep grapes, To keep lemons, oranges, and cranberries--Cooked fruit--General suggestions for cooking fruit--Recipes: Baked apples, Citron apples, Lemon apples, Baked pears, Baked quince, Pippins and quince, Baked apple sauce, Baked apple sauce No. 2, Apples stewed whole, Steamed apples, Compote of apples, Apple compote No. 2, Stewed pears, Stewed apple sauce, Boiled apples with syrup, Stewed apples, Stewed crab apples, Sweet apple sauce with condensed apple juice, Apples with raisins, Apples with apricots, Peaches, pears, cherries, berries, and other small fruits, Baked apples, Baked pears, Baked peaches, Cranberries, Cranberries with raisins, Cranberries with sweet apples, Oranges and apples, Stewed raisins, Dried apples, Dried apples with other dried fruit, Dried apricots and peaches, Evaporated peach sauce, Dried pears, Small fruits, Prunes, Prune marmalade--Canning fruit--Selection of cans--How to test and sterilize cans--Selection of fruit--Directions for preparing fruit--Cooking fruit for canning--Storing of canned fruit--Mold on canned fruit--Opening of canned fruit--Rules for selecting canned fruit--Fruit jellies--Fruit juices, value


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of--How to prepare fruit juices--Recipes: Grape juice or unfermented wine, Grape juice No. 2, Another method, Fruit syrup, Currant syrup, Orange syrup, Lemon syrup, Lemon syrup No. 2, Blackberry syrup, Fruit ices--Nuts--Composition and nutritive value of--The almond--Almond bread--The Brazil nut--The cocoanut, its uses in tropical countries--The chestnut--Chestnut flour--The acorn--The hazel nut--The filbert--The cobnut--The walnut--The butternut--The hickory nut--The pecan--The peanut or ground nut--Recipes: To blanch almonds, Boiled chestnuts, Mashed chestnuts, Baked chestnuts, To keep nuts fresh--Table topics.

The Legumes...................................... 217

Composition and nutritive value--Legumes as a substitute for animal food--Legumin, or vegetable casein--Chinese cheese--Legumes the "pulse" of Scripture--Diet of the pyramid builders--Digestibility of legumes--A fourteenth century recipe--The green legumes--Suggestions for cooking--Slow cooking preferable--Soaking the dry seeds--Effects of hard water upon the legumes--Temperature of water for cooking--Amount of water required--Addition of salt to legumes--Peas, description of--Buying votes with peas--A commemorative dinner--Peas bainocks--Peas sausages--Peas pudding--Time required for cooking--Recipes: Stewed split peas, Peas puree, Mashed peas, Peas cakes, Dried green peas--Beans, description of--Mention of beans in Scripture--Beans in mythology--Time required for digestion--Method of cooking--Experiment of an English cook--Parboiling beans--Time required too cook--Recipes: Baked beans, Boiled beans, Beans boiled in a bag, Scalloped beans, Stewed beans, Mashed beans, Stewed Lima beans, Succotash, Pulp succotash--Lentils, description of--Use of lentils by the ancients--Lentil meal--Preparation for cooking--Recipes: Lentil puree, Lentils mashed with beans, Lentil gravy with rice--Table topics.

Vegetables....................................... 228

Composition and nutritive value of vegetables--Exclusive diet of vegetables not desirable--To select vegetables--Poison in potato sprouts--Stale vegetables a cause of illness--Keeping vegetables--To freshen withered vegetables--Storing winter vegetables--Preparation and cooking--To clean vegetables for cooking--Methods of cooking--


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The Irish potato, description of--The chemistry of cooking--Digestibility of the potato--New potatoes--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Potatoes boiled in "jackets," Boiled potatoes without skins, Steamed potatoes, Roasted potatoes, Baked potatoes, Stuffed potatoes, Stuffed potatoes No.2, Mashed potatoes, New potatoes, Cracked potatoes, Creamed potatoes, Scalloped potatoes, Stewed potatoes, Potatoes stewed with celery, Potato snow balls, Potato cakes, Potato cakes with egg, Potato puffs, Browned potatoes, Ornamental potatoes, Broiled potatoes, Warmed-over potatoes, Vegetable hash--The sweet potato, description of--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Baked sweet potatoes, Baked sweet potatoes No. 2, Boiled sweet potatoes, Steamed sweet potatoes, Potato hash, Roasted sweet potatoes--Turnips, description of--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Boiled turnips, Baked turnips, Creamed turnips, Chopped turnips, Mashed turnips, Scalloped turnips, Steamed turnips, Stewed turnips, Turnips in juice, Turnips with cream sauce--Parsnips, Turnips in juice, Turnips with cream sauce--Parsnips, description of--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Baked parsnips, Baked parsnips No. 2, Boiled parsnips, Browned parsnips, Creamed parsnips, Mashed parsnips, Parsnips with potatoes, Stewed parsnips, Stewed parsnips with celery--Carrots, description of--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Broiled carrots, Carrots with egg sauce, Stewed carrots--Beets, description of --Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Baked beets, Baked beets No. 2, Beets and potatoes, Beet hash, Beet greens, Beet salad or chopped beets, Beet salad No. 2, Boiled beets, Stewed beets--Cabbage, description of--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Baked cabbage, Boiled cabbage, Cabbage and tomatoes, Cabbage and celery, Cabbage hash, Chopped cabbage or cabbage salad, Mashed cabbage, Stewed cabbage--Cauliflower and Broccoli, description of--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Boiled cauliflower, Browned cauliflower, Cauliflower with egg sauce, With tomato sauce, Stewed cauliflower, Scalloped cauliflower--Spinach, description of--Preparation and cooking--Celery--To keep celery fresh--Recipes: Celery salad, Stewed celery, Stewed celery No. 2, Celery with tomato sauce, Celery and potato hash--Asparagus, description--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Asparagus with cream sauce, Asparagus with egg sauce, Stewed asparagus --Sea-kale, description of--Lettuce and radish, description of--Winter squash--Preparation


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and cooking--Time required for cooking--Recipes: Baked squash, Steamed squash--The pumpkin, description of--Recipes: Baked pumpkin, stewed pumpkin, Dried pumpkin--Tomato, description of--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Baked tomatoes, Baked tomatoes No. 2, Scalloped tomatoes, Stewed corn and tomatoes, Tomato gravy, Tomato salad, Tomato salad No. 2, Broiled tomatoes, Tomato pudding, Stewed tomatoes, Tomato with okra--Egg plant, description of--Nutritive value--Recipes: Scalloped egg plant, Baked egg plant--Cucumber, description of--Digestibility--Preparation and cooking--Salsify or vegetable oyster, description of--Preparation and cooking--Recipes: Scalloped vegetable oysters, Stewed vegetable oysters--Green corn, Baked corn, No. 2, Boiled green corn, Stewed corn pulp, Corn cakes, Corn pudding, Roasted green corn, Stewed corn pulup, Corn cakes, Corn pudding, Roasted green corn, Stewed green corn, Summer succotash, Dried corn--Recipe for peas: Stewed peas--Recipes for beans: Lima beans, Shelled beans, String beans--Canning vegetables--Recipes: Canned corn and tomatoes, Canned peas, Canned tomatoes, Canned tomatoes No. 2, String beans, Canned pumpkin and squash--Table topics.

Soups............................................ 271

Value of soup as an article of diet--Superiority of soups made from grain and legumes--Economical value of such soups Digestibility of soups--Cooking of material for soups--Use of a colander in preparing soups--Quantity of salt required--Flavoring soups--Seasoning of soup--Chinese soup strainer--Whole grains, macaroni, shredded vegetables, etc., for soups--Milk in the preparation of soups--Consistency of soups--Preparation of soups from left-over fragments--Croutons--Recipes: Asparagus soup, Baked bean soup, Bean and corn soup, Bean and hominy soup, Bean and potato soup, Bean and tomato soup, Black bean soup, Black bean soup No. 2, Bran stock, Brown soup, Canned green pea soup, Canned corn soup, Carrot soup, Celery soup, Chestnut soup, Combination soup, Combination soup No. 2, Another, Another, Cream pea soup, Cream barley soup, Green corn soup, Green pea soup, Green bean soup, Kornlet soup, Kornlet and tomato soup, Lentil soup, Lentil and parsnip soup, Lima bean soup, Macaroni soup, Oatmeal soup, Parsnip soup, Parsnip soup No. 2, Pea and tomato soup, Plain rice soup, Potato and rice soup, Potato


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soup, Potato and vermicelli soup, Sago and potato soup, Scotch broth, Split pea soup, Sweet potato soup, Swiss potato soup, Vermicelli soup No. 2, White celery soup--Table topics.

Breakfast Dishes................................. 287

Importance of a good breakfast--Requirements for a good breakfast--Pernicious custom of using fried and indigestible foods for breakfast--Use of salted foods an auxiliary to the drink habit--The ideal breakfast--Use of fruit for breakfast--Grains for breakfast--An appetizing dish--Preparation of zwieback--Preparation of toast--Recipes: Apple toast, Apricot toast, Asparagus toast, Banana toast, Berry toast, Berry toast No. 2, Celery toast, Cream toast, Cream toast with poached egg, Cherry toast, Gravy toast, Dry toast with hot cream, Grape toast, Lentil toast, Prune toast, Peach toast, Snowflake toast, Tomato toast, Vegetable oyster toast--Miscellaneous breakfast dishes: Brewls, Blackberry mush, Dry granola, Frumenty, Macaroni with raisins, Macaroni with kornlet, Peach mush, Rice with lemon--Table topics.

Desserts......................................... 296

Appropriate and healthful desserts--Objections to the use of desserts--The simplest dessert--General suggestions--Importance of good material--Preparation of dried fruit for dessert--Molded desserts--Suggestions for flavoring: To prepare almond paste, Cocoanut flavor, Orange and lemon flavor, To color sugar, Fruit desserts--Recipes: Apple dessert, Apple meringue dessert, Apple rose cream, Apple snow, Baked apples with cream, Baked sweet apple dessert, Bananas in syrup, Baked bananas, Fresh fruit compote, Grape apples, Peach cream, Prune dessert--Desserts made of fruit with grains, bread, etc.--Recipes: Apple sandwich, Apple sandwich No. 2, Baked apple pudding, Barley fruit pudding, Barley fig pudding, Blackberry cornstarch pudding, Cocoanut and cornstarch blancmange, Cornstarch blancmange, Cornstarch with raisins, Cornstarch with apples, Cornstarch fruit mold, Cornstarch fruit mold No. 2, Cracked wheat pudding, Cracked wheat pudding No. 2, Jam pudding, Plain fruit pudding or Brown Betty, Prune pudding, Rice meringue, Rice snowball, Rice fruit dessert, Rice dumpling, Rice cream pudding, Rice pudding with raisins, Red rice


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mold, Rice and fruit dessert, Rice and tapioca pudding, Rice flour mold, Rice and stewed apple dessert, Rice and strawberry dessert, Stewed fruit pudding, Strawberry minute pudding, Sweet apple pudding, Whortleberry pudding--Desserts with tapioca, sago, manioca, and sea moss--Recipes Apple tapioca, Apple tapioca No. 2, Banana dessert, Blackberry, Cherry tapioca No. 2, Banana dessert, Blackberry tapioca, Cherry pudding, Fruit tapioca, Molded tapioca with fruit, Pineapple tapioca, Prune and tapioca pudding, Tapioca and fig pudding, Peach tapioca, Tapioca jelly, Apple sago pudding, Red sago mold, Sago fruit pudding, Sago pudding, Manicoa with fruit, Raspberry manioca mold, Sea moss blancmange--Desserts made with gelatine--Gelatine an excellent culture medium--Dangers in the use of gelatine--Quantity to be used--Recipes: Apples in jelly, Apple shape, Banana dessert, Clear dessert, Fruit foam dessert, Fruit shape, Gelatine custard, Layer pudding, Lemon jelly, Jelly with fruit, Orange dessert; Oranges in jelly, Orange jelly, Snow pudding--Desserts with crusts--Recipes: Apple tart, Gooseberry tart, Cherry tart, Strawberry and other fruit shortcakes, Banana short cake, Lemon shortcake, Berry shortcake with prepared cream, Cream, Raised pie, Baked apple loaf, Custard puddings--Importance of slow cooking--Best utensils for cooking--Custard desserts in cups--To stir beaten eggs into heated milk--To flavor custards and custard puddings--Recipes: Apple custard, Apple custard No. 2, Apple custard No. 3, Apple cornstarch custard, Apple and bread custard, Almond cornstarch pudding, Almond cream, Apple charlotte, Banana custard, Boiled custard, Boiled custard bread pudding, Bread and fig pudding, Bread and apricot pudding, Caramel custard, Carrot pudding, Cocoanut cornstarch pudding, Cocoanut custard, Cocoanut rice custard, Corn meal pudding, Corn meal pudding No. 2, Corn meal and fig pudding, Cornstarch meringue, Cracked wheat pudding, Cup custard, Farina custard, Farina pudding, Floating island, Fruit custard, Graham grits pudding, Ground rice pudding, Lemon pudding, Lemon cornstarch pudding, Lemon cornstarch pudding No. 2, Macaroni pudding, Molded rice or snowballs, Orange float, Orange custard, Orange pudding, Peach meringue, Picnic pudding, Plain cornstarch pudding, Plain custard, Prune pudding, Prune whip, Rice apple custard pudding, Rice snow, Rice snow with jelly, Rice with eggs, Snow pudding, Steamed custard, Tapioca custard, Tapioca pudding, Vermicelli pudding, White custard, White custard No. 2--


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Steamed pudding--Precautions to be observed in steaming puddings--Recipes: Batter pudding, Bread and fruit custard, Date pudding, Rice balls, Steamed bread custard, Steamed fig pudding--Pastry and cake--Deleterious effects from the use of--Reasons for indigestibility--General directions for making pies--Recipes: Paste for pies, Corn meal crust, Granola crust, Paste for tart shells, Cream filling, Grape tart, Lemon filling, Tapioca filling, Apple custard pie, Banana pie, Bread pie, Carrot pie, Cocoanut pie, Cocoanut pie No. 2, Cream pie, Cranberry pie, Dried apple pie, Dried apple pie with raisins, Dried apricot pie, Farina pie, Fruit pie, Grape jelly pie, Jelly custard pie, Lemon pie, Lemon custard pie, Prune pie, Pumpkin pie, Pumpkin pie No. 2, Pumpkin pie without eggs, Simple custard pie, Squash pie, Squash pie without eggs, Simple custard pie, Squash pie, Squash pie without eggs, Sweet apple custard pie, Sweet potato pie--Cake--General suggestions for preparation of--Cake made light with yeast--Cake made light with air--Recipes: Apple cake, Cocoanut custard cake, Cream cake, Delicate cup cake, Fig layer cake, Fruit jelly cake, Gold and silver cake, Icing for cakes, Orange cake, Fruit cake, Loaf cake, Pineapple cake, Plain buns, Sponge cake, Sugar crisps, Variety cake--Table topics.

Gravies and Sauces................................ 350

Importance of proper preparation--Accuracy of measurement--Proportion of material necessary--The double boiler for cooking gravies--Flavoring of gravies for vegetables--Gravies and sauces for vegetables--Recipes: Brown sauce, Cream and white sauce, Celery sauce, Egg sauce, Pease gravy, Tomato gravy, Tomato cream gravy--Sauces for desserts and puddings--Recipes: Almond sauce, Caramel sauce, Cocoanut sauce, Cream sauce, Cranberry pudding sauce, Custard sauce, Egg sauce, Egg sauce No. 2, Foamy sauce, Fruit cream, Fruit sauce, Fruit sauce No. 2, Lemon pudding sauce, Mock cream, Molasses sauce, Orange sauce, Peach sauce, Plain puding sauce, Red sauce, Rose cream Sago sauce, Whipped cream sauce--Table topics.

Beverages........................................ 357

Large quantities of fluid prejudicial to digestion--Wholesome beverages--The cup that cheers but not inebriates--Harmful substances contained in tea--Theine--Tannin--Use of tea a cause of sleeplessness and nervous disorders--Tea of stimulant--Tea not a food--Coffee, cocoa, and chocolate


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--Caffein--Adulteration of tea and coffee--Substitutes for tea and coffee--Recipes: Beet coffee, Caramel coffee, Caramel coffee No.3, Caramel coffee No. 4, Mrs. T's caramel coffee, Parched grain coffee, Wheat, oats, and barley coffee--Recipes for cold beverages: Blackberry beverage, Fruit beverage, Fruit beverage No. 2, Fruit cordial, Grave beverage, Lemonade, Mixed lemonade, Oatmeal drink, Orangeade, Pineapple beverages, Pineapple lemonade, Pink lemonade, Sherbet, Tisane--Table topics.

Milk, Cream, and Butter.......................... 364

Milk, chemical composition of--Proportion of food elements--Microscopic examination of milk--Casein--Casein coagulated by the introduction of acid--Spontaneous coagulation or souring of milk--Adulteration of milk--Quality of milk influenced by the food of the animal--Diseased milk--Kinds of milk to be avoided--Distribution of germs by milk--Proper utensils for keeping milk--Where to keep milk--Dr. Dougall's experiments on the absorbent properties of milk--Washing of milk dishes--Treatment of milk for cream rising--Temperature at which cream rises best--Importance of sterilizing milk--To sterilize milk for immediate use--To sterilize milk to keep--Condensed milk--Cream, composition of--Changes produced by churning--Skimmed milk, composition of--Buttermilk, composition of--Digestibility of cream--Sterilized cream--Care of milk for producing cream--Homemade creamery--Butter, the composition of--Rancid butter--Tests of good butter--Flavor and color of butter--Artificial butter--Test for oleomargarine--Butter in ancient times--Butter making--Best conditions for the rising of cream--Upon what the keeping qualities of butter depend--Cheese--Tyrotoxicon--Recipes: Hot milk, Devonshire or clotted cream, Cottage cheese, Cottage cheese from buttermilk, Cottage cheese from sour milk, French butter, Shaken milk, Emulsified butter--Table topics.

Eggs............................................. 380

Eggs a concentrated food--Composition of the egg--How to choose eggs--Quality of eggs varied by the food of the fowl--Stale eggs--Test for eggs--How to keep eggs--To beat eggs--Albumen susceptible to temperature--Left-over eggs--Recipes: Eggs in shell, Eggs in sunshine, Eggs poached in tomatoes, Eggs in cream, Poached or dropped eggs, Poached eggs with cream sauce, Quickly prepared


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eggs, Scrambled eggs, Steamed eggs, Whirled eggs--Omelets--Recipes: Plain omelets, Foam omelets, Fancy omelets, Soft omelets--Table topics.

Meats............................................ 389

Character of meat--Nutritive value--Excrementitious elements--Flesh food a stimulant--Diseased meats--Jewish customs in regard to meat--Trichina--Tapeworm and other parasites--Meat unnecessary for health--The excessive use of meat tending to develop the animal propensities--Objections to its use--Pork--Calves' brains and other viscera--Meat pies--Scallops--Pates--Composition and digestibility--Selection of meats--Preservation of meats--Jerked beef--Pemmican--Preparation and cooking of meat--Frozen beef--Best methods of cooking--Boiling--Stewing--Steaming--Roasting--Broiling--Beef, economy and adaptability in selection of--Recipes: Broiled beef, Cold meat stew, Pan-broiled steak, Pan-broiled steak No. 2, Roast beef, smothered beef, Vegetables with stewed beef, Stewed beef--Mutton--Cause of strong flavor of--Recipes: Boiled leg of mutton, Broiled chops, Pot roast lamb, Roast mutton, Stewed mutton, Stewed mutton chop, Stewed mutton chop No. 2, Veal and lamb--Poultry and game To truss a fowl or bird--To stuff a fowl or bird--Recipes: Birds baked in sweet potatoes, Boiled fowl, Broiled birds, Broiled fowl, Corn and chicken, Pigeons, quails, and partridges, Roast chicken, Roast turkey, Smothered chicken, Steamed chicken, Stewed chicken--Fish, two classes of--Difference in nutritive value--Flavor and wholesomeness--Poison fish--Parasites in fish--Fish as a brain food--Salted fish--Shellfish--Oysters--Clams--Lobsters--Crabs--Not possessed of high nutritive value--Natural scavengers--Poisonous mussels--How to select and prepare fish--Frozen fish--Methods of cooking--Recipes: Baked fish, Broiled fish--Meat soup--Preparation of stock--Selection of material for stock--Quantity of materials needed--Uses of scraps--Extracting the juice--Temperature of the water to be used--Correct porportion of water--Time required for cooking--Straining the stock--To remove the fat--Simple stock or broth--Compound stock or double broth--To clarify soup stock--Recipes: Asparagus soup, Barley, rice, sago, or tapioca soup, Caramel for coloring soup brown, Juilienne soup, Tomato soup, White soup, Vermicelli or macaroni soup, Puree with chicken, Tapioca cream soup--Table topics.

Food for the Sick................................ 418

Need of care in the preparation of food for the sick--What constitutes proper food for the sick--Knowledge of dietetics an important factor in the education of every woman--No special dishes for all cases--Hot buttered toast and rich jellies objectionable--The simplest food the best--Scrupulous neatness in serving important--To coax a capricious appetite--A "purple" dinner--A "yellow" dinner--To facilitate the serving of hot foods--Cooking utensils--Gruel--Long-continued needed--Use of the double boiler in the cooking of gruels--Gruel strainer--Recipes: Arrowroot gruel, Barley gruel, Egg gruel, Egg gruel No. 2, Farina gruel, Flour gruel, Gluten gruel, Gluten gruel No. 2, Gluten cream, Gluten meal gruel, Graham gruel, Graham grits gruel, Gruel of prepared flour, Graham gruel, Graham grits gruel, Gruel of prepared flour, Indian meal gruel, Lemon oatmeal, Milk oatmeal gruel, Milk porridge, Oatmeal gruel, Oatmeal gruel No. 2, Oatmeal gruel No. 3, Peptonized gluten gruel, Raisin gruel--Rice water--Preparations of milk--Milk diet--Advantages of--Quantity of milk needed--Digestibility of milk.--Recipes: Albumenized milk, Hot milk, Junket, or curded milk, Koumiss, Milk and lime water, Peptonized milk for infants--Beef tea, broths, etc.--Nutritive value--Testimony of Dr. Austin Flint--Recipes: Beef extract, Beef juice, Beef tea, Beef tea, Beef tea and eggs, Beef broth and oatmeal, Bottled beef tea, Chicken broth, Mutton broth, Vegetable broth, Vegetable broth No. 2, Mixed vegetable broth--Recipes for Panada: Broth panada, Chicken panada, Egg panada, Milk panada, Raisin panada--Grains for the sick--Recipes: Gluten Mush, Tomato gluten, Tomato gluten No. 2--Meats for the sick--Importance of simple preparation--Recipes: Broiled steak, Chicken, Chicken jelly, Minced chicken, Mutton chop, Minced steak, Scraped steak--Eggs for the sick--Recipes: Floated egg, Gluten meal custard, Gluten custard, Steamed eggs, Soft custard, Raw egg, White of egg, White of egg and milk--Refreshing drinks and delicacies for the sick--Nature's delicacies --How to serve--Fruit juices--Recipes: Acorn coffee, toast water, Baked milk, Barley lemonade, Barley and fruit drinks, Barley milk, Cranberry drink, Currantade, Crust coffee, Eggnog, Eggnog No.2, Eggnog No. 3, Egg lemonade, Flaxseed coffee, Gum Arabic water, Hot water, Hot lemonade, Irish moss lemonade, Orangeade, Plain lemonade, Slippery elm tea, Toast water, Tamarind water--Bread--Recipes:


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Diabetic biscuit, Diabetic biscuit No. 2, Gluten meal gems--Jellies and other desserts for the sick--Recipes: Arrowroot jelly, Arrowroot blancmange, Currant jelly, Iceland moss jelly, Iceland moss blancmange, Orange whey, White custard--Table topics.

Food for the Aged and the Very Young............. 439

Requisites of food for the aged--Stimulating diet not necessary for the aged--Heavy meals a tax upon digestion--Cornaro's testimony--Diet for the young--Causes of mortality among young children--Best artificial food--Use of sterilized milk--Difference between cows' milk and human milk--Common method of preparing cows' milk and human milk--Common method of preparing cows' milk--Artificial human milk--Artificial human milk No. 2, Artificial human milk No. 3--Peptonized milk--Mucilaginous food excellent in gastro-enteritis--Preparation of food for infants--Time required for digestion of artificial food--Quantity of food for infants--Rules for finding the amount of food needed--Table for the feeding of infants--Interval between feeding--Intervals for feeding at different ages--Manner of feeding artificial foods--Danger from unclean utensils--Diet of older children--An abundance of nitrogenous material important--Flesh food unnecessary--Experiments of Dr. Camman--Testimony of Dr. Clouston--Candy and similar sweets--Eating between meals--Education of the appetite--Inherited appetites and tendencies--Table topics.

Fragments and Left-over Foods.................... 452

Preserving and utilizing the left-over fragments--Precautions to be observed--Uses of stale bread--To insure perfect preservation of fragments--Preparation of zwieback and croutons--Left-over grains--Left-over vegetables--Left-over meats--Left-over milk--Table topics.

The Art of Dining................................ 456

Pleasant accessories essential--The dining room--Neatness an essential--Care of the dining room--Furnishings of the dining room--Table talk--A pleasant custom--Table manners--Importance of good table manners--Suggestions for table etiquette--The table--Its appearance and appointments--The table an educator in the household--A well ordered table an incentive to good manners--Ostentation not necessary--Setting the table--The sub-cover


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--Napkins--The center piece--Arrangement of dishes--"Dishing up"--Setting the table over night--Warming the dishes--The service of meals--A capital idea--Fruit as the first course at breakfast--To keep the food hot--A dinner of three courses--Plan of service when a servant is employed--General suggestions for waiters--Suggestions concerning dinner parties--Proper form of invitation--Arrangement and adornment of table--A pleasing custom--The menu card--Service for a company dinner--Etiquette of dinner parties--Table topics.

After Mealtime................................... 471

Clearing the table--Washing the dishes--papier-maché tubs--Ammonia, uses of--Clean dishes not evolved from dirty dishwater--Washing all dishes of one kind together--Washing milk dishes--Uses of the dish mop--Cleaning of dishes soiled by eggs--To clean an egg beater--To clean grain boilers and mush kettles--Washing of tin dishes--To clean iron ware--To wash wooden ware--Care of steel knives and forks--Draining the dishes--Dishcloths and towels--To make a dish mop--The care of glass and silver--To keep table cutlery from rusting--To was trays and Japanned ware--Care of the table linen--To remove stains--To dry table linen--To iron table linen--Washing colored table linen--The garbage--Table topics.

A Year's Breakfasts and Dinners.................. 481

A perplexing problem--Requisites for a well arranged menu--Suggestions for preparing bills of far--Table of food analyses--Fifty-two weeks' breakfasts and dinners--Average cost--Analysis of various bills of fare--Table topics.

A Batch of Dinners............................... 543

Holiday dinners--Holiday feasting--Holiday dinners opposed to temperance--Thanksgiving menus--Picnic dinners--The lunch basket, provision for--Fruit sandwiches--Fruit sandwiches--Egg sandwiches--Picnic biscuit--Fig wafers--Suitable beverages--School lunches--Deficiency of food material in the ordinary school lunch--Why the after dinner session of school drags wearily--Simple lunches desirable--Suggestions for putting up the lunch--Creamy rice--Neatness and daintiness essential--The lunch basket--Sabbath, deleterious results of--Simple meals for the Sabbath--A Sabbath bill of fare--Table topics.

> LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

THE ALIMENTARY CANAL...................................................... 36

AN OVEN THERMOMETER....................................................... 50

CONVENIENT KITCHEN TABLE.................................................. 63

A DOUBLE BOILER........................................................... 67

COMPARTMENT SINK FOR DISH-WASHING (open).................................. 68

COMPARTMENT SINK FOR DISH-WASHING (closed)................................ 69

THE STEAM COOKER.......................................................... 71

VEGETABLE PRESS........................................................... 71

LEMON DRILL............................................................... 72

THE HANDY WAITER.......................................................... 72

WALL CABINET.............................................................. 73

PERCOLATOR HOLDER......................................................... 74

KNEADING TABLE............................................................ 74

DISH-TOWEL RACK........................................................... 75

VEGETABLE BRUSH........................................................... 76

A DOUBLE BOILER........................................................... 81

SECTIONAL VIEW OF WHEAT KERNEL............................................ 86

MEASURING CUPS............................................................ 127

BREAD PAN................................................................ 134

MEXICAN WOMEN MAKING TORTILLAS............................................ 148

STONE METATE.............................................................. 149

GEM IRONS................................................................. 152

PERFORATED SHEET IRON PAN FOR ROLLS....................................... 152

MAKING UNFERMENTED BREAD.................................................. 153

CANNING UTENSILS.......................................................... 197

BAIN MARIE................................................................ 232

CHINESE SOUP STRAINER..................................................... 273

CREAMERY.................................................................. 371

ORIENTAL BUTTER-MAKING.................................................... 374

ARRANGEMENT FOR STRAINING STOCK........................................... 413

GRUEL STRAINER............................................................ 421

EXTENSION STRAINER........................................................ 421

WIRE DISHCLOTH............................................................ 474

> LIST OF COLORED PLATES.

THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP.................... 60

SOME ANCIENT MILLERS...................... 85

A NEAPOLIATAN MACARONI FACTORY............ 105

A JAPANESE DINNER--THE MACARONI VENDER.... 106

ANCIENT METHODS OF GRINDING MEAL.......... 109

A CENTER PIECE OF ASSORTED FRUITS......... 164

ORANGES, CHERRIES, PEARS, AND PEACHES..... 170

MELON, PINEAPPLE, GRAPES.................. 182

A MODEL DINING ROOM....................... 456

A PICNIC DINNER........................... 545

> INTRODUCTION.

NO one thing over which we have control exerts so marked an influence upon our physical prosperity as the food we eat; and it is no exaggeration to say that well-selected and scientifically prepared food renders the partaker whose digestion permits of its being well assimilated, superior to his fellow mortals in those qualities which will enable him to cope most successfully with life's difficulties, and to fulfill the purpose of existence in the best and truest manner. The brain and other organs of the body are affected by the quality of the blood which nourishes them, and since the blood is made of the food eaten, it follows that the use of poor food will result in poor blood, poor muscles, poor brains, and poor bodies, incapable of first-class work in any capacity. Very few persons, however, ever stop to inquire what particular foods are best adapted to the manufacture of good blood and the maintenance of perfect health; but whatever gratifies the palate or is most conveniently obtained, is cooked and eaten without regard to its dietetic value. Far too many meals partake of the characteristics of the one described in the story told of a clergyman who, when requested to ask a blessing upon a dinner consisting of bread, hot and tinged with saleratus, meat fried to a crisp, potatoes swimming in grease, mince pie, preserves, and pickles, demurred on the ground that the dinner was "not worth a blessing." He might with equal propriety have added, "and not worth eating."

The subject of diet and its relation to human welfare, is one deserving of the most careful consideration. It should be studied as a science, to enable us to choose such materials as are best adapted to our needs under the varying circumstances of climate, growth, occupation, and the numerous changing conditions of the human system; as an art, that we may become so skilled in the preparation of the articles selected as to make them both appetizing and healthful. It is an unfortunate fact that even among experienced housekeepers the scientific principles which govern the proper preparation of food, are but little understood, and much unwholesome cookery is the result. The mechanical mixing of ingredients is not sufficient to secure good results; and many of the failuresattributed to "poor material," "bad luck," and various other subterfuges to which cooks resort to excuse themselves, are more correctly attributable to ignorance of scientific principles. The common method of blindly following recipes, with no knowledge of "the reason why," can hardly fail to be often productive of unsatisfactory results, which to the uninformed seem quite inexplicable.

Cookery, when based upon scientific principles, ceases to be the difficult problem it so often appears. Cause and effect follow each other as certainly in the preparation of food as in other things; and with a knowledge of the underlying principles, and faithfulness in carrying out the necessary details, failure becomes almost an impossibility. There is no department of human activity where applied science offers greater advantages than in that of cookery, and in our presentation of the subjects treated in the following pages, we have endeavored, so far as consistent with the scope of this work, to give special prominence to the scientific principles involved in the successful production of wholesome articles of food. We trust our readers will find these principles so plainly elucidated and the subject


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so interesting, that they will be stimulated to undertake for themselves further study and research in this most important branch of household science. We have aimed also to give special precedence of space to those most important foods, the legumes, and grains and their products, which in the majority of cook books are given but little consideration or are even left out altogether, believing that our readers will be more interested in learning the many palatable ways in which these especially nutritious and inexpensive foods may be prepared, than in a reiteration of such dishes as usually make up the bulk of the average cook book.

For reasons stated elsewhere (in the chapter on Milk, Cream, and Butter), we have in the preparation of all recipes made use of cream in place of other fats; but lest there be some who may suppose because cream occupies so frequent a place in the recipes, and because of their inability to obtain that article, the recipes are therefore not adapted to their use, we wish to state that a large proportion of the recipes in which it is mentioned as seasoning, or for dressing, will be found to be very palatable with the cream omitted, or by the use in its place of some one of the many substitutes recommended. We ought also to mention in this connection, that wherever cream is recommended, unless otherwise designated, the quality used in the preparation of the recipes is that of single or twelve hour cream sufficiently diluted with milk, so that one fourth of each quart of milk is reckoned as cream. If a richer quality than this be used, the quantity should be diminished in proportion; otherwise, by the excess of fat, a wholesome food may become a rich, unhealthful dish.

In conclusion, the author desires to state that no recipe has been admitted to this work which has not been thoroughly tested by repeated trials, by far the larger share of such being


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original, either in the combination of the materials used, the method employed, or both materials and method. Care has been taken not to cumber the work with useless and indifferent recipes. It is believed that every recipe will be found valuable, and that the variety offered is sufficiently ample, so that under the most differing circumstances, all may be well served.

We trust therefore that those who undertake to use the work as a guide in their culinary practice, will not consider any given recipe a failure because success does not attend their first efforts. Perseverance and a careful study of the directions given, will assuredly bring success to all who possess the natural or acquired qualities essential for the practice of that most useful of the arts,--"Healthful Cookery."

ELLA E. KELLOGG.

Battle Creek, April 20, 1892.